UNNEW MAGAZINE Dec/23-Feb/24

FASHION IN FILM

GETTING INTO RESELLING THRIFT

Fashion Designers Pay Tribute To 1975 Film

916.220.4281

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GETTING INTO

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owadays there’s a whole new market vendors and just vendors in general to see if they when it comes to the simple idea of wanted a chance to be a part of the new market. selling your clothes whether it’s in per- Acevedo Bermudez found going to the market reson or online. This would now be ally fun and at the time she would take her best called reselling, within this market there are re- friend with her. They started going to them one sellers which essentially are the people who are after another and that’s how she got the “the ball selling clothes and sometimes even shoes and ac- rolling”. She wants to eventually open up her own cessories. Sometimes these resellers even have a store once she graduates so she has her business target audience as they showcase a specific aes- marketing degree can come in handy. “I feel like thetic/style to their customers. Depending on later in the future, probably after I graduate. their methods, they typically collect their prod- That’s definitely the goal, I feel like it would be ucts from a variety of different places like thrift/ really cool to have my own space but I try to take vintage stores, antique shops, markets, Goodwill little steps toward that right now,” Acevedo Berbins, etc. People typically decide to turn reselling mudez said. Aside from going to Goodwill bins, into their very own business, but other people she also goes to flea markets, yard sales, estate just keep it as a side hustle. Each person has a sales, and even local thrift stores. She added that different reason for why they decide to get into it usually takes a really long time, taking her two the reselling market in the first place. Damariz to three hours at a thrift store depending on how Acevedo Bermudez is a third year business mar- it is; but she makes sure to look everywhere and keting major who came from a family who liked look at everything. “It’s just looking at everything secondhand and thrifting in general. Her dad was because you never know what you’re gonna find, I into thrifting as she was growing up, Acevedo Ber- remember just digging through a random pile at a mudez remembers going to yard sales every Sat- flea market and finding a random diesel sweater, I urday morning just to find random stuff.Coming just recommend looking through everything,” from a lower income family, she would go to a Acevedo Bermudez said. Within the last year, couple yard sales but she thought it was nice be- she’s been working more with shops where she cause they still had the same things that other has her own curated rack inside vintage stores. “I people had. In a young age, she had this certain feel like being in those really does help you grow mentality of wanting everything that everyone just because like there’s so many people seeing else around had. Acevedo Bermudez found the your brand and seeing your whole curation,” she Goodwill bins and remembers going religiously said. Acevedo Bermudez makes sure to stay pretty during the school break between 2021-2022. She consistent with doing a few every month so she would be there three times every week the entire gets her name out there. She’s also talking to her break, thinking it was so cool. She would then customers while they’re shopping her racks, that hear some people around her talking about doing way they remember her better allowing for better these markets that she even went to before she connections with one another. When describing started thrifting. Those same people she saw at her target customer, Acevedo Bermudez says “It’s the Goodwill bins were the same people who all the girls, I love all the girls and they always would sell at the markets. It first started with have different styles. Right now it’s western and Acevedo Bermudez collecting a lot of pieces, Y2K, which has been doing really well.” Phillis which then prompted her to start her own Insta- Dunn, a Sacramento local is a vintage reseller for gram page dedicated to her finds. “February 2022 clothing. “I always just had a love for just going to came around and it just fell into my lap, my first vintage stores, started with me and my brother market actually reached out to me even though over a decade ago then we decided to make it my web page had probably 50 followers,” she Continued on page 88 said. The market reached out to lots of new

Letter from the Publisher

TRIBUTE WELL DESERVED The evening of November 19, 2023 at the MAHOGANY A Fashion Tribute, an evening of new and old faces came together to witness some amazing designs and styling by Brenda Davis of Be.neal Designs, Lorna Mainess of Coo Coo Couture and fashion students from California State University of Sacramento’s Learning Program where they did a forty-nine hour internship at Unnew Magazine. Amongst the guests were Mario B, Gerry ‘Gos’ Simpson, Gary Simon producer of the annual Sacramento Juneteenth Festival, Duan Ram of the Sacramento Fashion Week, Shonna McDaniels of the annual Sacramento Banana Festival, and Carnette Burnett of MIXX School of Cosmetology, just to name a few. Some of the event’s supporters were Kelley Ashe of Flawless by Kelley; Paul Mitchell School Sacramento hairstyling team; Tess Benard-Fultcher of Purse Fetish, June Riddick of Creatives of Riddick and Taylor’s Mind Studios. Catering provided by Kandace Kitchen.

There were 23 models, 16 hairstylists, 12 Make up artist, and 7 staff members responsible for the Mahogany A Fashion Tribute fashion show being such a success. And we have to mention the beautiful establishment the Antiquite Maison Privee (Private Antique House) which is where the event was held and was the perfect venue to host the second hand styled event. Most of the garments where recirculated materials staying the purpose of Unnew Magazine, sustainability. “ We are proud to have such a prestigious event take place in our home town and have some of the best local event producers and local fashion icons attend.” says Richard Pannell, event producer and Unnew Magazine Publisher.

“The show was simply fabulous. The venue was perfect. The set up was awesome. The models exquisite and it ran so on time. Everything was more than I expected.” said Carnette Burnette of MIXX School of Cosmetology.

I just wanted to let you know that you raised the bar last evening, Great show, great venue. Raise your right hand, turn it around, bring it down and pat yourself on the back!” says Gerry ‘Gos’ Simpson of GOS Art.

Amy Cruz & Angelic Durta Robin Joy, Performer Carnette Burnett, MIXX & Lisa Cook

Mario B, Stylist Extraordinaire Gerry ‘GOS’ Simpson Designer/Artist

Duan Ram and Chloe Simmons Gary Simon

Barbara Pannell, Spectator

Alameda Catalina Island Los Angeles

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uring the summer of 2023, we traveled to a few places to venture out and see what else was out there besides what was in our own backyard. First stop, the Alameda Vintage Fashion Faire (AVFF) held at the Alameda former Naval Base. To our surprise we found some of the most profound vintage garments from WWII to the 1920’s. The ‘Dealers’ as they were called, came from as far as Washington, Los Angeles (Lo Que Fue, Covina), Bay Area, Oregon and even our own Sacramento (Racks Vintage Boutique). There were so much to choose from that shoppers had large bag full of garments that even though their bags were over full, they kept shopping.

The AVFF, hosted true historical vintage from the Victorian and jazz age that the Dealers shop for six months and hold on to them until the AVFF is held.

This year’s event theme was Vintage Pajama Party which was held the night before the shopping spree took place.

Event producer, Sandra Michaan, says over one hundred Dealers attended this year’s AVFF. Some of the Dealers were Benny Reese’s Vintage Pieces of Los Angeles, CA; Rachel Ricketts, owner/curator/buyer for Racks Vintage, Sacramento, CA; Madmoiselle Vintage, Proprietress, Lisa Gonzales; Faultline Collectables, on Etsy, Nancy Malone; Raw Vintage, Renee Underwood, Bay Area; Eastern Classics, Asian Furniture & Antiques, Berkeley, CA and Lo Que Fue Boutique, Jessy Fuentes, Covina, CA, to name a few.

The AVFF is held in May, March and September every year and accepts new Dealer that can sign up and be critique by reaching out to www.alamedavintagefashionfaire.com We also traveled to Catalina Island and Los Angels. On the ship while cruising to Catalina Island, there were

Continued on pg 18

BELJAR & REPLAY VINTAGE Los Angeles

White BUFFALO Catalina Island Vintage Travels Cont. from pg 17

incased garments (see below left corner) displayed near the dining room on the 11 deck that were 18th century fashions truly authentic.

While in Los Angeles, we were taken on an early evening stroll to peruse a few vintage shops that were hidden gems and great garments and met some owners that were awesome.

Norwegian Cruise Ship

By Jasmyn Daniels

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ow, to all who indulge themselves in the world of fashion, we can all agree: “With fashion, there must come a passion”. As we look through time, we see this very theme sprawled through the many fashion shows and magazines, television shows, and performances nationally. But there is one movie from the mid-1970’s that embodies this feeling of the passion that guides the love of fashion.

As we look into the development of honorable fashion film pieces through the years, we will take a look at a revolutionary fashion movie, one you can’t help but to say with emphasis: “Mahogany”!

The movie, ‘Mahogany’, was filmed and premiered in 1975 featuring acclaimed female actress Diana Ross along with other stars. She starred as a young and passionate Tracey Chambers in the film who was determined to make a name for herself in the rough city of Chicago, Illinois. During these times in the mid-1900’s fashion was taking the world by storm as designers aimed to create more optimally modern styles for men and women similar to that of Tracy’s passion in the movie.

The world would truly begin to see the seams of fashion mending in the 1960’s. Not only did fashion events flourish in the world of the “Mahogany” movie and in real life during this era, but striking models would also emerge such as Grace Jones, Jean Shrimpton, and Pat Cleveland. Together the flame of passion to both put on a show and create one would hold a spot for the fashion industry at the pinnacle of success and demand.

Attempts at getting a foot in the door of fashion’s industry scene proved to be tough at times for upcoming models and fashion designers like Diana Ross’ character, Tracy. Not only was she a young woman of color, but she also resided in the rough areas of Illinois’ famed city of Chicago. Although these areas were rough, fashion events would still be held such as the infamous Ebony Fashion Fair, also known as Fashion Fair Cosmetics today. These events were held locally and nationwide, allowing both disadvantaged designers and disadvantaged models into the industry to showcase their potential.

Eunice Walker Johnson was one of the main pioneers of fashion and one of the founders behind the Ebony Fashion Fair, holding a 65 year run in the fashion industry from 1958-2009 until Johnson’s passing in 2010. Shows would be held nationally and featured majorly Ebony models and European stylists who would put on fashion shows in the designated cities. These events were held locally and nationwide, allowing both disadvantaged designers and disadvantaged models into the industry to showcase their potential.

She started as a designer who’s eclectic designs were hardly accepted by her peers and instructors at all. Soon enough, Tracy would find herself in similar situations rubbing shoulders with fashion icons as her career progressed, eventually leading her to her stardom in Rome. Seemingly cliche, the probability of stumbling upon such an opportunity was relatively high around these times as fashion was becoming very popular in the entertainment and advertising industry. Her career would take off with this new connection and the name, ‘Mahogany’, would be bestowed upon her as she made her way through the ranks in fashion.

Mahogany as a color represents luxury, strength, and resilience; You can’t help but think about flickering candles, ambient lights, and champagne glasses clinking as you look and think of the color.

Just as the color represents, Tracey Chambers’ strength and resilience shown throughout the movie is fitting for her name. From a lowly fashion assistant to blossoming into a renowned fashion model and designer, her passion outweighed the obstacles in the world of fashion.

Throughout the storyline of the classic movie, ‘Mahogany’ we are revisited with the same recurring theme that, “with fashion, must come a passion”. The movie Mahogany was one of the major films that helped set the stage for the fire of passion that would burn in the minds and hearts of upcoming designers and models in the fashion industry for years to come and pass.

A FASHION TRIBUTE Featuring:

Multicolored suit blazer/buttons $150.00

Black knit dress with tulle and hat $700.00

Teal Asian dress w/gold leggings $200.00

Bubble dress $1,000.00

Red and white Asian dress red flowers $500.00

Rainbow shirt rainbow button pants $700.00

Fur cropped jacket grey skirt fur pockets $900.00

Sweetheart black bodice metallic skirt black tulle $900.00

Grey vest and pants fur trim leopard turtle neck $600.00

Faux fur top black dress $300.00

Leather jacket pleather pleated skirt/ bralette/beret $300.00

Asian crop top jacket white ruffle pants $500.00

Gold body suit and gold skirt w/pearls $200.00

GOODWILL SOUTH SACRAMENTO

IO

QUESTIONS FOR THE PUBLISHER

RICHARD PANNELL

Q: What made you want to start your very own fashion magazine?

A: I have two passions, I have food which is probably first and then fashion. Well actually, I started out wanting to be a fashion designer. Back when I was only 18 teenager at that point.

And I had designed like 82 designs and everything and then they got ruined. My sister took over. So I kind of slow down and then I want to start helping my mother in the kitchen and then for the love of food, so working in the food industry. And I started and accomplished publishing in a food magazine called Cuisine Noir then I turned over to someone but that's a whole other story.

And then when I was doing fashion shows starting back in 1982 I did my first one. I started doing fashion shows all over Sacramento, Los Angeles, things of that sort of that sort and then back in 2012 I got this notion because I fell in love with second hand Hannah, Amy, Pannell and Angelic stores and shopping and things like that not only because of the prices but because of it fit me better when it came to, you know picking out clothes. I think I used maybe two or three models for my first issue and it was a 5x7. I put it out in 2012. I had it set for last year, I reintroduced it and the rest is history.

Q: What or what inspired your magazine?

A: To be honest with you, Anna Wintour of Vogue has just always been one of the prominent magazines to this date that I have. I mean there's other ones but Vogue does have a certain style, their photography. You know the models, what it stood for, how large it was, the whole nine yards that was my inspiration. Unnew Magazine, I want it to be the thrift and vintage

Continued on page 36

10 QUESTIONS FOR THE PUBLISHER Cont. from page 35 publication. Like Vogue I said, the Vogue of thrift, if you will.

Q: Where does the name UNNEW Magazine come from?

A: I'm not sure if I made it up. Because again I started off with Encore and I found out there was a theater publication with the same name in New York. I was looking for something that means renew, recycle, you know all that good stuff. And, so what I've looked at is the redo and undo icon on the computer you know when you do something and you want to take that away and you have to hit that little circular symbol with the arrowhead. I haven't even looked it up but nobody else had that name. So I shelled out a new thrift and vintage publication. Whatever is not processed for recycling means it's recirculating. Recirculating just means you don't have to do anything chemical to it. It just changes hands.

Q: What are three words you would use to describe your magazine?

A: Circulate, classy and helpful.

Q: Is there any advice you would tell your past self when you first started the magazine?

A: I would advise myself to do more research and save more money mainly, To have a staff to work with me as opposed to me doing everything myself. Besides the photography, of course, the writing, actually putting together the magazine and not using a template and learning a magazine layout program would be a great thing. I haven't found someone nor been able to pay someone to do that. But I would definitely advise myself to be patient.

Q: What is your end goal for the magazine?

A: My mission is to have the finest publication that promotes thrift and vintage items like appliances, things that promote the classy style of things that have been recycled or recirculated. I just believe there's a lot more style in vintage clothes than there are some designer clothes today. One goal is for people to have a magazine that they can pick up and see how you can take something that is unnew to belong to someone else and leave it in tack or up-style it. I also plan on getting an RV and putting a team together to travel across the country and find thrift and vintage stores for interviews, photo shoots and unique stories. Maybe even a Podcast.

Q: Do you have any idea what your next fashion will be?

A: Actually, the Mahogany fashion tribute was the final fashion show that I have planned on doing. That was my finale. My focus now will be on the magazine and so right now no more fashion shows for me.

Interviewed by Hannah Asuncion

AMY

ANGELIC

HANNAH PATRICIA MACASCQUIT

UNNEW MAGAZINE INTERSHIP STYLIST PHOTOGRAPHER & JOURNALIST Fashion Entrepreneurship Field Placement Program

“We could not have done it without them” Thank you and thanks to Ester Amato, Instructor

R.K. PANNELL Publisher/Editor -In-Chief CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jasmyne Daniels Hannah Asuncion CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Tichyna Daniels Tkg_photography Pg Cover; 11, 21, 23-31, 33-35, 35-56, 58-74

Angelic Dutra CSUS Fashion Student Pg 3-6, 12-15

Charles Frye Chuckcwf Pg 46

Edward R. Carley III Imagesby.erc3 Pg 79-86

@Dragonfly_Studio_LLC Pg 57

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FEATURED

BE NEAL DESIGNS @survivalwithflair

LORNA MAINESS Coo Coo Couture

CSUS FASHION STUDENTS Dutra/Cruz Stylists

HANNAH BE Retrospect Vintage Fashion UPSCALE THRIFT CHEAP FRILLS THRIFT TOWN

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By Jasmyn Daniels

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hen we conversate about the world of fashion, we sometimes neglect or glaze over the traditions from which our primordial fashion trends once derived from.

We may not look deep enough into the finer threads which make us feel confident in our style and fashion.

Panama hat, in contemporary society today as well.

The arrival of Spaniard conquest armies in the mid-16th century would open the doors for these cultural hats to be sourced and exported between other North and South American regions, including Panamanian regions like the province of Coclé, southwest of Panama City, which would served to boost the fame of these timeless hats in all of the region it flowed into. The people of the Coclé region would begin to pick up on the technique of the weaving tradition, even renaming it the Pinta’o hat, as trading and exporting of these hats became more demanding from consumers.

Once the Panamanian region of Coclé began producing, we’d see more of this unique hat; We can even follow traces of the term, “Panama hat”, into the early 20th century in 1906 during the final stages of construction of the Panama Canal. As the former president, Theodore Roosevelt, The hats that we are going to cover are watched over the progressing construction, picthose which have definitely made a statement in tures would be taken of him and would spark the countless places and all throughout time, a true timeless piece of fashion. Rooted deep in tradition interest in the new name, the “Panama hat”, as the and handwoven by the very hands of those dedi- photography of his visit circulated the early mecated to holding such tradition together: the Pana- dia. Not only was the former president seen wearma hat, traditionally known as the “jipijapa” hat ing the hats, but workers busy in the canal would be photographed wearing these hats to protect from its Ecuadorian origin. themselves from blazing heat, too. Many who had access to these media photos would be inspired to pick up on the new trend and the ‘Panama hat’ would take fashion by storm

The original name, Jipijapa, derived from traditional artists dedicated to keeping these hats in circulation within Ecuadorian culture as early as the late 15th- early 16th century. They were originally woven in the province of Azuay in Ecuador, where weavers would be taught from young ages how to weave and complete all of the known patterns and techniques there is to the art and tradition. Once finished, they’d be taken to a town known as Montecristi in Ecuador to be sold out into the greater world, which is why they are also known as Montecristi hats, outside of the name

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A FASHION TRIBUTE Featuring:

Cream Trench Coat Tan $75.00 Flower Pants $70.00

White On White Coat and Skirt $250.00

Black Double-Breasted Trench Coat $175.00

White Cape & Skirt $250.00

Gold Short Jacket with Black Jumpsuit $200.00

Blue Jean Comforter Coat with Several Attachable Pillows $500.00

Purple Off the Shoulder Top and Pants with Brown Fur $200.00

Black Tunic Dress with Fur Trim Cape and Hat to Match $100.00

Black Kimono Jacket with Black Puff Pockets and sleeve Designs $300.00

Two Tone Black Mini Lemay Dress Black Pants and Matching Lemay Shaw $150.00

Black Fitted Short Coat & Black Shredded Pants $170.00

Black & White Shredded Coat $350.00

Orange Red Blue Layered Multicolored Chiffon Dress $150.00

Wine and Cream Dasiki $50.00

Orange Chiffon Butterfly Coat & Dress $250.00

Zebra Print with Purple Lining Zebra Top & Skirt $379.00

Cream Shredded Long Coat and Pants $300.00

Blue Jean sleeveless Vest Large Pocket Outside/Inside Navy Blue Lining Reversable $180.00

Black Leather jacket $150

Blue Jean Long Cape Shredded Collar $250.00

Leopard Double Large Collar Navy Blue Wool Lining Dress $300.00

片丹日凵片工 己卞としヨ (KABUKI STYLE)

Royal Blue Silk Jacket and Pants with Royal Blue Lining $80.00

Gold Multicolor Purple and Green Kimono with Purple Top and Pants $175.00

Gold Chinese Trench Coat with Navy Blue Ankle Gathered Pants and Lining $175.00

Reddish-Wine with Flower Short Kimono Cream Belt and Purple Pants $175.00

Gold Multi-Pocket Long Satin Coat $80.00 Satin Dress $75.00

Red Silk Kimono Red, Gold & Purple Sleeves Red Silk Dress $175.00

Red Black White Silk Batted Kimono Red Top Black and Long Black Skirt $300.00

Black Long Sleeve Kimono Cream Dress Green and Red Sash Brown 2-Tone Pants $200.00

Palm Tree Long Coat Orange Top $80.00 Orange Top and Pants $75.00

Leopard Orange Cape with Hood Leopard Sweater and Pants $350.00

Black Shredded Coat 300.00 Black Skirt $80.00

Red and Purple Dress with Fur Collar $150.00

Gold Kimono on Gold 2-Piece Pants and Top $175.00

Turquoise Kimono and Gold Dress $175.00

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or some reason fashion throughout the dec- more in comparison to Cher’s chic style. Dionne has ades keeps on getting recycled onto the dec- the personality of being bold and courageous whenevades after and this continuous trend is the in- er it shows her not being afraid to break some fashion evitable fate of the fashion community, up rules every now and then. Now Cher Horowitz being until someone somehow breaks that pattern little by the protagonist of this film, we will expect her to be little. Part of the reason why these fashion trends keep the center attention throughout the whole film which reappearing is possibly due to some films we watch is exactly what happens especially when it comes to that involve great fashion. Two movies that are con- her fashion. According to the costume designer of the stantly getting referenced in fashion would be Clueless film, there were over 50 different outfits of hers, and Mean Girls. Although these films do share a com- which were influenced heavily by trends that were mon plot, the main reason people like me religiously coming straight from the runway and not from stores rewatch them is strictly due to each of the film’s style, in the mall. Her style is something we would all conaesthetic, and fashion. Throughout Clueless, which sider as timeless, the aesthetic that is shown in her was made in 1995, there are a total of four characters style is very European and French influenced. These who are showcased when it comes to their sense of influences make appearances whenever she wears her style. These characters are Amber Mariens, Tai Frasi- berets, pea coats, and A-line skirts. Cher’s daily outfits er, Dionne Davenport, and Cher Horowitz. Amber usually consist of an ensemble of an A-line or pleated Mariens’s style is showy and sometimes even a bit out skirts, some sort of blazer or long sleeve blouse, of place, which is a way for her to draw attention to sweaters, Mary Jeans heels, and knee high socks. They herself. In general, she likes animal prints and furry show your classic school girl uniform, but adding a textiles. There is also a motif of stars and the color red twist of high fashion. Cher loves her skirt sets and when it comes to Amber. Her outfits also give a more feminine colors. Her iconic yellow plaid suit set is vintage look, which is very different compared to Cher what everyone would call a legendary fashion moment and Dion. Amber also has a tendency to mix and that will be passed down to every generation to come. match multiple prints and patterns. The next character Whenever she’s at home, that’s when she’ll wear is Tai Frasier who prioritizes comfort and coziness something more casual yet something still chic. While which gives us a sense of her personality. She is a lot at school, she’s wearing skirts and dresses, only ever more down to earth, caring less about how she looks wearing pants at home. The next film that is a slight and more about what’s on the inside. Tai wears a lot adaptation of the previous film is Mean Girls, which of cotton and solid colors which represents how re- was made in 2004 almost a decade later and also laxed and easy going she is. Her plaid shirt she wears showcases a total of four characters as well. These in her first outfit is what allows her to cover up more characters are Cady Heron, Karen Smith, Gretchen as she’s not quite as comfortable showing off her body Wieners, and Regina George. Being the protagonist of as Cher is. Tai’s outfit even shows her economic sta- this film, Cady Heron’s style goes through the biggest tus and how it looks like it came straight from the and clearest transformation. In the beginning of the mall. On the other hand, Cher’s and Dionne’s outfits film, she wears only darker colors like blues, browns, always look like they're coming from the runway. To- reds, and greens which are more represented within wards the middle of the film, we start to see her dress masculinity. But as she starts becoming part of the more femininely but is still leaning towards her true Plastics, she then sticks mainly to reds, pinks, and self. Like lots of her outfits, there’s always a hint of blues. Her outfits are simply plain which show that her childishness and innocence in what she is usually character hasn’t developed a sense of style and self wearing. Dionne Davenport is a character who is prob- yet. Cady’s style ably the most daring when it comes to her outfits, she usually wears tighter and shorter silhouettes. This is also reflective from her bolder personality. Dionne is a

By Hannah Asuncion lot more edgy and more hip, also being even more colorful than Cher. She had the leopard, neon, vinyl, 50s purposes which symbolizes her being adventurous and Continued on page 69 that’s the main reason why she has a brighter super fun color palette for her. Dionne isn’t afraid to show a little more skin showing that she is more comfortable with her body than Cher is. She definitely is an experimental person when it comes to her wardrobe, creating an edgier look that allows her to stand out

By Jasmyn Daniels

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and extension to their height as well since it also hen you hear the word, represented their wealth. On the left, you can see “heels”, there are numerous King Louis the XIV showcasing his wealth through scenarios to be thought of where a pair of heels are these new masculine fashion. involved in the mix. From nightlife aesthetics to business woman aesthetics, fashion runways, and Paired with a taller, more defined physique the highest of designer brand shelves, heels span and prestigious colors like blues, golds, and reds, amongst all kinds of lifestyles and walks of life, these attributes and wardrobe choices would be the literally. But the real use of heels has, over the main traits setting apart the rich men from the poor. course of time, been reshaped in terms of who We’d also begin to see an increase in other variawears them, the meaning of the heeled-shoe, and tions of the heel from places such as Venice, Japan, the purpose they served in the lives of those who and even Egypt as masculine-geared shoe fashion wore them. became more focused upon.

The mid-18th to the early 19th century would take The creation and purpose of the heel origi- the world of both genders by storm and completely nally started its use on the battlefield. The creator reshape the outlook on heels, who wears them, and was a Persian Monarch by the name of Shah Abbas what it represented in society. A surge in women I, and his new creation would be a prized benefit wanting to wear heels would take place during this for his cavalrymen on and off the battlefield. As a time, and this opened new outlets for interpretation contemporary fashion consumer, or even artist, it’d and opinion on different meanings the heel would be hard to imagine just how these heels would be take on. Their redefined shape would help showany kind of help on the battlefield. These heels case feminine qualities better, and the lowerwould be made of a sturdy material known as shagreen, and would end up becoming “man’s best friend” on the field by allowing them to maintain their stability, accuracy, and ultimately their lives.

The iconic heel started in the 16th century in the region of Persia under the Safavid Dynasty ruled by Shah Abbas I. The men of this dynasty’s military were always depicted wearing these heels in battle, as they helped cavalrymen secure themselves sitting, or even standing steadily, within their stirrup attachments (depicted in the picture above).

This added equipment to their battlefield gear allowed them to fire their arrows with more precision as they rode past on their horses. Eventually, the world would witness cavalrymen wearing their heels within their personal wardrobes outside of battle, which would be seen as a symbol of their prestige and wealth; The inclusion of their honored horse riding was also seen as a symbol of their prestige and military prowess, making the heel an added indicator of their material successes.

Soon enough, the beginning of the 17th century would see an increase in the wearing of these heeled shoes all across the greater known worlds outside of being an honored cavalrymen. Many men adopted new fashion trends that included styles such as stockings, feet structure emphasis,

Continued on pg 87

HIGH & MIGHTY HEELS Cont. 78 emphasized height on the heel gave the woman wearing a pair a delicate, innocent, and more feminine persona to her overall appearance; This change to the purpose and styles available to the heel would begin to steer men away from incorporating them into their own wardrobes.

Mick Jagger advocate and wear mens heels, making sure the tradition of mens heels stays alive outside of uses in just the feminine and laborial aspect.

Periods such as the Victorian Era (Jun 20, 1837 – Jan 22, 1901) would also be an important worldly era that would open the floodgates for different ideas to emerge about all the different kinds of styles that might conform to the feminine physique in a pair of heels. Given that the old, original heel style for men was gradually becoming more feminized, we’d begin to see evidence of men starting to adapt the original heel style to accommodate the masculine persona and the other new fashion trends that were emerging from the surface around this time. Some examples of this adaptation include cowboy boots, round-toe dress shoes, and Oxford dress shoes, all of which would begin to become popular in the early 20th century era.

By Jasmyn Daniels

With the numerous adaptations happening on both the masculine and feminine style spectrums of heeled fashion, it was obvious that having a pair still proved to be efficient and impactful in fashion and other factions of life far after their development. Popularization of both styles would only amplify as we saw great advancements in technology and other forms of popularized media; Advertising them in commercials and featuring them in famous movies, television shows, and national event moments would bring the style right back to the surface of the fashion scene. Throughout those years, we’ve witnessed countless male stars such as Prince, Kanye West, Simon Cowell, and even

RESELLER Continued from page 8

pect, but I’d like to branch off into my own brand and you know, sell my own clothing that doesn’t lucrative from there,” Dunn said. Once the panrequire to source it out and resold for a higher demic hit, it sort of slowed everything down when price,” As Khan talks about going to the Goodwill it came to her business and at the time, she was also bins, he recommends always going with a cart. One method he mentioned was to do a quick grab once a bar manager. 2021 was when some thrift stores started to open back up again, which meant she was the new rotation of bins is done, then wait for them able to get back out there as the market started pick- to push everything out of the way. Khan said that ing up. “We pulled the trigger and started going full this method will allow you to get the best piece in a time from there,” Dunn said. She primarily goes to hectic environment. Depending on his schedule, different markets around the Sacramento region, the he’ll go from opening for a good 10 minutes but in other cases, he’ll be at the bins for two or three biggest bulk she does would be wholesaling. She also goes to garage sales, estate sales but a majority hours. According to Khan, there are three Goodwill of them closed down within the last couple of years. bins in Sacramento and each one of them have their Sometimes she even goes on Facebook marketplace pros and cons. As his business grows, he uses social or Craigslist. Eco Thrift is another thrift store that media to connect with his customers but talking to most people like to hit up. Like every other reseller, them at the markets is especially important. “It’s the Goodwill Bins is another place Dunn likes to go easier to get your name out when people are walkto. She likes to as soon as they open and then usual- ing in and out of your booth and to be able to even connect with your neighboring vendors, that’s how ly gives it a couple of hours. “If I feel like I have enough that I need for the day or if I have a certain you can connect with their following and then connect with your following. It’s all about networking goal in mind of the type of items that I want to hit at that point,” Khan said. When it comes to certain that will be able to give me a certain profit of the day, then just call it a day from there,” she said. workwear brands like Dickies, Carhartt, Nike, and Dunn has a handful of clients that she’s come Levi's, it seems to be pretty popular to the customacross along the way, so she just sells to them diers. He said “I typically just shop for everybody, so rectly, usually seeing them twice a week. “I just put I don't really like to limit my markets and not promyself as a wholesaler just because I see the clothes vide anything that people don’t want so I’m open to anything.” “I have to kind of learn the trends, typiat an extremely discounted price than what it is,” cally very unisex and pretty broad for everybody.”

Dunn added. Most of her clients have a particular Khan recommends to people who decide they want interest in streetwear so that’s what she keeps an to be a part of this community, to do it in person at eye for. It ranges from the mid 90s and back, a lot of the stuff she picks up is based on what she likes first. It gets a bit tedious when going through the to wear so for the most part it’s curated around that. process of online reselling. On the other hand, in Stanley Khan is a fourth year fashion merchandis- person markets are a lot easier since you just have ing management major who attended his first ever to set up your racks and “you just build a stronger market at the World’s Worst Expo in 2021. “All the communication and connection with the customer.” resellers look so cool standing in front of their “For anyone who wants to start reselling, definitely it’s a great way to make some side money or even booth and just chilling there with all their cool clothes,” Khan said. He added “I felt like if I could branch into the fashion industry. It’s not that hard to do that even just for like a month like I’d feel pretty start, you can start with a simple $200 or maybe cool and I kind of love thrifting already, so if I can $100, it’s just great to be a part of the community make money from it I felt like reselling would have and also make some money with it. So definitely give it a shot if you’re really thinking about it,” been a great pathway for it.” Khan then realized Khan added that there was a whole community behind this reselling business and just the thrifting community as a whole, which is why he felt like he wanted to be a

By Hannah Asuncion part of it. “Being able to connect with people and provide what I provide, I felt like that was my reason to start this business,” he said. When talking to Khan about possibly having his own store some day, he said “I’m not sure about the reselling as-

FASHION IN FILM Cont. from page 75

Gretchen also likes to wear her silver jewelry, often wearing her Tiffany toggle charm bracelet paired isn’t necessarily something you would consider out with a diamond necklace and studs. She often is of place, but she just chooses not to stand out in any wearing some type of knitwear along with a miniway. As the film progresses, she becomes a lot more skirt. Regina George being the ultimate mean girl fashionable once the silhouettes of her shirts and means that her style is very polished as she never pants become trendier. Still dressing down as she looks out of place. She is the most feminine with wears hoodies and sneakers in shades of grays, this emphasis on romantic girly colors like pink, greens, and browns. Cady then starts to incorporate purple, black, and red along with very short hemmore pastel colors as she even plays around with lines. Regina’s aesthetic is made up of many early different hairstyles. As she makes her final transi2000s fashion trends consisting of silver jewelry tion into going full plastic, she doesn’t only wear and the sweater blouse combination. Variations of pink as her regular color, but also wears jewelry, her said “uniforms” include a simple top, short cirespecially hoop earrings like Regina. As pants start cle skirt, and heels. As Regina isn’t with Aaron anyto disappear, all Cady wears are these short skirts, more, she becomes a bit more casual and down to plunging necklines, and heels. Her transformation earth as she continues to wear her usual tops but into the new Regina is finalized as she wears initial now wears tight denim mini skirts instead. During necklaces, slogan shirts, Louis Vuitton handbags, her downfall, she regularly begins to wear sweatand velour tracksuits. The final look we see her in pants and jeans which doesn’t allow her to show off are a pair of jeans and a white top which symbolizes her skin compared to the beginning of the film. Her the combination of her past plastic self and her past final look consists of a pair of black pants and a normal self. Karen Smith is probably the most simgray sweater with a pink heart symbolizing her forple out of all the plastics due to her not really venmer Plastic self. Multiple decades have passed and turing outside of her comfort zone. This typically these two films still continue to be influential within involves lots of mini skirts and soft tops. When it every generation and their styles. At this point, we comes to her outfits, it resembles children’s clothing probably shouldn’t even consider it a comeback both in the color choices and its details. Karen takes since it just happens every so often in the fashion the whole “on Wednesdays we wear pink” to anothcommunity . er level when she wears a pink Prada messenger bag, pink mini skirt, and a pink long sleeve top with a purple ribbon. She typically sticks to the color pink and it seems like her outfits are never really thought out compared to the rest of the girls. As she’s no longer a Plastic in the end of the film, she is still wearing the same type of ensemble she typically wore which shows how she was the only one who was never pretending to be someone she wasn’t. Gretchen Wieners has a color palette that is mainly made up of browns, oranges, pinks, and reds. Her aesthetic is very distinct when it comes to being preppy as she wears lots of sweaters and pleated skirts. Gretchen has a tendency to show off her wealth more compared to the other girls, she has a soft spot for the British brand Burberry, which did have quite a reputation in the 2000s. Many of the prints she likes are tartan, plaid, argyle, and paisley, which were very popular and successful in the UK.

Tradition in the Threads Cont. pg 42 This new term would overshadow the true Ecuadorian roots from which the unique and sacred technique of such a weaving style would emerge; But on the contrary, it’d still bring spotlight to the tradition overall, the quality of the hats and the dedication into each thread that brings each individual hat together.

You can still find such hats still in style in our contemporary society. We see many different variations of the Panama hat style alongside other styles inspired by the protection from the sun that the hat also gives for those who are in labor-stricken environments; We catch the people like famous stars wearing them in their movies, television shows, and even music videos, too. The Jipijapa, the Pinta’o hat, or the Panama hat, no matter how you choose to address it, you can't help but to recognize what a timeless hat it truly is in our ever-growing society.

And even as the numbers dwindle, we still find many passionate weavers who still seek to keep the tradition alive. As a well-known traditional weaver explains:

By Jasmyn Daniels

“When you are weaving it is just you and the straw…”

-Simón Espinal

And when you hear such words, and are in those sort of moments, you realize that the tradition and fine craft truly lies within the threads

UNNEW Magazine would like to acknowledge all the models who walked in MAHOGANY A FASHION TRIBUTE PARTICIPATING MODELS

Aaliyah

Kala Heu

Amy Davis

Laena Keiallday

Athena Frye

Lily Vang

Cameron Youmans

Nevaeh DeWitt

Cynthis Jackson

Nikisha Shamitran

D-Dynasty

Sheryl Zonio

Diamond Mone’

Sade

Evan Navarro

Stephanie (Slim) Lewis

Fahteema

Tamica Michelle Atterberry

Ginger Snaps

Uma Bela

Haemy Chung

Vain Kargil Coberg

Haley McCown Houachie (Chie) Her

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