Acadiana Profile Magazine June-July 2024

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elY suds

ts a T
+ ↑ EXPLORE! THE BREWERY SCENE IN THE ACADIANA REGI O N
DAY
Noodle
offers tasty comfort food Parish Brewing
double
MUSEUMS AND
TRIPS Noodling Around Lafaytte's Mae Sone
House
Co.’s
India Pale Ale Ghost in the Machine

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Breweries

Special suds around town

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Museums and Daytrips

Local summer adventures await

Features JUNE/JULY 2024

Round

June/July

For

Erath

Megan

Recettes de Cocktails

Take a sip of summer with a refreshing gin tipple imbued with ripe strawberries

A

14 NOTE DE L’EDITEUR Editor’s Note 18 NOUVELLES DE VILLES
up of what's new in Acadiana VOLUME 43 NUMBER 03 56 54
28
La Maison
redesign in
natural light
moments 22 UN VOYAGE AU VILLAGE
Lake Charles blends
with soft colors and bold
almost 100 years
has passionately celebrated the birth of America 24 L’ART
Barra finds her inspiration in music and poetry 62 DE LA CUISINE
joy of catching and cooking fish 64 EN FRANÇAIS, S’IL VOUS PLAÎT - LES ARCHIVES
Restaurants de mon cœur Acadiana Profile (ISSN 0001-4397) is published bimonthly by Renaissance Publishing LLC, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 828-1380 and 128 Demanade, Suite 104, Lafayette, LA 70503 (337) 235-7919. Subscription rate: One year $24 auto-renewal; no foreign subscriptions. Periodicals postage paid at Lafayette, LA, and additional mailing entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Acadiana Profile, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright © 2024 Renaissance Publishing LLC. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark Acadiana Profile is registered. Acadiana Profile is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork, even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in Acadiana Profile are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the magazine or owner. Dîner Dehors Lafayette’s Mae Sone Noodle House offers tasty family recipes
The
Les
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 11

EDITORIAL

Editor Reine Dugas

Art Director Sarah E.G. Majeste

Associate Editor Ashley McLellan

Copy Editor Liz Clearman

Lead Photographer Danley Romero

Web Editor Kelly Massicot

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If you’re not traveling to places far and wide during the summer, June and July are the perfect months to travel close, to explore your own surroundings a bit more. Being a tourist in your own town or nearby spots can be really fun and is often something I forget about. Actually, the only time I usually do is when I have friends and family in town. I take them to all of the places that represent the area and very often, to spots I haven’t even gone myself. It’s easy to get wrapped up in work or to do the same things week after week and never get farther than a 20-minute radius of my neighborhood. And, I’ll be honest, in the summer months, I’m reticent to leave the comfort of my cool house and go outside into the brutal heat. I crank up the a/c, make a tall glass of iced tea, and stay put—that’s my summer go-to plan if I’m not traveling out of town. COVID restrictions sort of sealed in that homebound routine, but it’s time to shake free of that mindset and get out and explore some.

So this summer, I’m determined to do just that. I’ve decided to make myself a bucket list of sorts. Places I want to visit and things I want to do over the summer. Obviously, at the top of the list would be places with a/c because despite what people say, you never get used to the heat — at least, I never have. I’m excited to discover new places and things to do — getting out of my comfort zone for a bit.

One of the many beautiful things about Acadiana is that the culture is so rich, you can go from one town to another or clear across the region and find new restaurants, museums and festivals. There’s plenty to do, in other words.

Within the pages of this issue, you might find some spots you’ve never gone to and decide to check them out this summer. There’s the Erath 4th of July festival, a host of breweries to explore and some great day trip ideas.

What’s on your summer bucket list?

14 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
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16 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM ÉQUIPE DE VENTE Rebecca Taylor Sales Manager (337) 298-4424 (337) 235-7919 Ext. 230 Rebecca@AcadianaProfile.com COMING SOON! AUGUST/SEPTEMBER THE HOME ISSUE Top Real Estate Pros
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 17

Ducks All Around

Round up of what's new in Acadiana

LAROSE, THIBODAUX

Of Decoys, Ducks and Suds

The 47th annual Cajun Heritage Festival (June 7-9) celebrates hunting and hunters with hundreds of unique duck decoys, carving demos, decoy and shotgun raffles and duck calling contests in the Larose Civic Center (cajunheritagefestival.org). Locals and visitors alike enjoy sipping suds during the Thibodaux on Tap (June 8) craft beer show held in historic downtown Thibodaux (lacajunbayou.com).

MURAL OF MULTIPLE ERAS IN FRANKLIN

Internationally acclaimed muralist Robert Dafford, a Lafayette native who has painted over 400 murals throughout the U.S., Canada and Europe, recently completed a large-scale mural in Franklin’s Pocket Park depicting various eras along Bayou Teche. It begins with a sepia-tone “postcard” depicting the Chitimacha tribe, followed by the Acadians’ arrival in the 1700s and the 1800s plantation era. The second “postcard” showcases circa1900s riverfront developments followed by contemporary scenes along Bayou Teche (robertdaffordmurals.com).

Shrieking Birds Rescue Crawfish

Terrebonne, Lafourche, Acadia, Ascension, St. Martin, Vermilion Acadiana’s pesky apple snails have started oozing into rice and crawfish-producing farms, invading traps and consuming entire 40-acre crops. The mortal enemies of apple snails, migratory limpkins (known for their piercing, high-pitched screeches) have recently emerged as the saviors of rice and crawfish. Initially sighted at snail-infested Lake Boeuf near Thibodaux, their growing and apparently permanent population indicates that these wading birds are here to stay. Observers say limpkins put on quite a show, “shrieking and gobbling up snails.” People have mistaken the cries for murder victims.

Go Zydeco!

Lebeau Show up with your dancing shoes and an appetite and you’ll be rocking to “Don’t Mess with My Toot Toot” while chowing down on pork backbone dinners and other Creole favorites at the annual Lebeau Zydeco Festival (July 6), energized by zydeco bands and dancing fans (cajuntravel.com/events/ lebeau-zydeco-festival).

18 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM NOUVELLES DE VILLES
For more news briefs visit AcadianaProfile.com
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 19

TRAILBLAZING POLLUTANTS PREVENTION IN CALCASIEU

For the first time in 30 years, the national emissions standards for hazardous organic pollutants have been amended. New EPA rules will cut enough cancercausing emissions to reduce cancer risk by 96% for people living near these industries. Southwest Louisiana plants including Citgo, Lake Charles; Firestone, Sulphur; Westlake Corp. companies, Sulphur; Sasol Chemical and Lotte Chemical, Westlake are among the 200 participants. It’s part the “ending cancer as we know it” initiative by Cancer Moonshot and its 70 new programs to date (epa.gov/hazardousair-pollutantsethylene-oxide/finalrule-strengthenstandards-syntheticorganic-chemical; whitehouse.gov/ cancermoonshot/).

Have a Beer with Fido

Carencro’s popular Bus Stop Bistro has relocated inside the new Yard Goat, a German-style beer garden boasting Lafayette’s largest dog-friendly patio. Yard Goat’s trellised patio, cooled by towering fans and shaded by 11 live oaks, serves over 80 beers (and flights), frozen cocktails, mocktails and new Bus Stop shareables including Cajun tacos, buttery cheese curds, fries with five dipping sauces and lavish steak boards. Weekend food trucks are forthcoming (theyardgoat.com).

St. Jude Dream Home Giveaway

Broussard Tickets are still available for the 2024 Acadiana St. Jude Dream Home built by McClain Companies. Situated in the Magnolia Trace subdivision (201 Shadow Bend Drive in Broussard), the beautiful new 4-bedroom, 3.5 bath home valued at an estimated $675,000 features a gourmet kitchen with Bosch appliances and an opulent master suite with a Shaw custom shower. It will be given away June 26 on KATC. June 13 is the deadline for the bonus prize: $10,000 gift certificate toward a residential generator, installed, courtesy of Sirius Power Generation (Tickets: 800-724-1918; DreamHome.org).

Revitalizing a Community

Carencro A prodigious water infrastructure revitalization program is underway in Carencro to rectify the city’s ongoing brown water problems. The century-old cast iron pipes are being changed and fitted with abundant new PVC pipes. Carencro’s new “walkability grant” will help freshen up the sidewalks that have been around since the carriage era (carencro. org/carencro-waterinfrastructure-revitalizationinformation).

20 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM NOUVELLES DE VILLES
For more news briefs visit AcadianaProfile.com
CARENCRO, LAFAYETTE
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 21

Free Fireworks and Fun

For almost 100 years the town of Erath has passionately celebrated the birth of America. The small town south of Lafayette explodes each year with a street fair, carnival rides, bar-b-que cook-off, Queen’s pageant, parade and fireworks and so much more, at the annual Erath Fourth of July festival. Best of all, admission to the fairgrounds where the fun happens June 30-July 4 is free.

1

2

Parade and Fireworks

Naturally, because it’s Louisiana, there will be a first-class parade honoring the United States declaring its independence from Great Britain in 1776. The fun begins at 5 p.m. Tuesday, July 4, and rolls through Erath making a circle around the fairgrounds. Then at 9 p.m., it’s the Independence Day Fireworks light show at the fairgrounds, although the brilliant displays should be seen just about everywhere in Erath.

3 Water Fights

We never grow up when it comes to water fights, and Acadiana fire departments are no different. At 9 a.m. Tuesday, July 4, firefighting teams from Erath, Delcambre, Leblanc, Henry and the Meaux/Nunez fire departments will participate in water fights with the winner receiving an award and bragging rights. Think tug of war with fire hoses! It’s usually sweltering on the Fourth, so kids may dangle their feet in the cool water flowing down the street.

ERATH FOURTH OF JULY erath4.com

THE ACADIAN MUSEUM OF ERATH

203 S. Broadway, Erath acadianmuseum.com/ museum.html 337-456-7729

Learn History

Erath is home to the Acadian Museum of Erath, which tells the story of Acadian (Cajun) history from the arrival of the first immigrants from Nova Scotia in the mid-1700s to present day. The shelves sport rare artifacts, personal histories, music, art, genealogy and much more. The museum’s open from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and 10 a.m. to noon Saturday.

22 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM UN VOYAGE AU VILLAGE
PHOTO COURTESY: ERATH FOURTH OF JULY
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 23

SILKEN THREADS

Megan Barra finds her inspiration in music and poetry

Lafayette artist Megan Barra describes herself as an “artist, collector, music enthusiast, dancer, foodie, seamstress, student of the French language and designer.” But her work is much more than that. Through her art, this descendant of Acadians and other 18th-century French settlers venerates the culture and rhythms of Southwest Louisiana, its people, history and landscape. That spiritual connection is present in every fiber of her work.

Barra’s approach to creating art is unlike most artists who use paint and canvas or metal and clay

to create their work. Instead, Barra hand-stitches together pieces of colored silk to create colorful “silk compositions” with fractured imagery that at times calls to mind the paintings of Pablo Picasso. Although their visual messages differ radically, both tell stories. Her images dive deep into heartbeat and rhythms of Louisiana music and landscape.

“Music is a passion of mine,” Barra says. “I celebrate the musical artists that I enjoy listening to and who have impacted our culture in Louisiana — artists such as Clifton Chenier, Cléoma Breaux Falcon, Amédé Ardoin and Sonny Landreth. Life revolves around celebration, and my art is a tribute to that. The landscape of South Louisiana is also a source of inspiration. There is a spirit to it. I feel compelled to share the beauty of nature in my way.”

Another passion is the French language. Because of her ancestry and a life immersed in the culture of the Acadiana parishes, Barra is learning to speak French. She has taken classes at the University of Louisiana at Lafayette and at the Université Sainte-Anne in Nova Scotia.

“It’s a beautiful language,” she says, “and I would love to have more conversations with older friends whose first language is French.”

Born in Baton Rouge, Barra grew up in Lafayette where she later received a bachelor of Fine Arts degree at the University of Louisiana. There she studied graphic design with Dutch Kepler and drawing with Tom Secrest and famed Louisiana landscape artist Elemore Morgan Jr., who greatly influenced her art.

24 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM L’ART
(Top left) Kitchen Band, (Top right) Black Snake Blues (Right, top) Four on Six (Bottom) Piano
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 25

“As a young artist,” she says, “Elemore taught me to see the beauty in a landscape, to draw with observation and curiosity and to look for inspiration. As a friend, he inspired me with his grace, generosity and gentle spirit.”

She also found encouragement and her voice in the poems of former two-time Louisiana Poet Laureate Darrell Bourque who, as she says, “inspires in me a desire to conjure up a story, a song or a sonnet with my imagery.” Conversely, Barra’s art resonates with Bourque’s sense of visual poetry.

“Megan Barra stitches soulfulness into her subjects,” says Bourque, reflecting upon her imagery. “She approaches art with both loving regard and impeccable technique. Like a master quilter, her vase of roses, her musical instruments, her singers and players

and her broad and varied subjects become windows into what we value in our histories, our cultures, our beloved landscapes.”

Bourque selected Barra’s silk composition “Woman with Guitar” for the cover of his book “Megan’s Guitar and Other Poems from Acadie.” One of his poems is titled “Megan’s Guitar,” which reads in part:

“The woman’s placed the instrument close to where she breathes & it rests on a knee perhaps. She takes to the frets for histories we didn’t know were ours to tell, of people we didn’t know we knew: stories of Mi’kmaq & Attakapas, of the old men of Martaizé & Saint Domingue, of Broussards & Trahans, of Castilles & Babineauxs wavering like time inside this curved & trembling world of ours.”

Barra began creating her silk compositions after inheriting a 1910 Singer sewing machine from a great aunt. Her sewing process is similar to making a costume or patchwork quilt, which her compositions are not. First, she sketches a concept on paper that she scans into her computer to refine. Next, she prints out a paper pattern, cuts out elements in that pattern, selects the silk colors, pins the pattern parts to the fabric and then hand-stitches them together. At times, she draws directly on the silk. She finishes the edges with her sewing machine. The completed work is then framed.

“It just feels good to make something and tell a story by putting different pieces together,” Barra says. “There’s a story with every piece of material I get. Like the women in my family before me, I enjoy working with fabric. I love giving new life to heirloom silks. Sewing with your hands is very meditative.”

In addition to her fine art work, Barra has built a successful career as a commercial graphic artist and has done everything from publications for state cultural agencies to business logos and posters, including those for Lafayette’s Festival International de Louisiane. She designs art books and catalogs, and cover art for vinyl albums and compact discs. In 2002, her artwork received a Grammy nomination in the “Best Recording Package” category for the “King of Slydeco” Sonny Landreth’s album “Levee Town.”

Over the years, her work has received considerable recognition. It has appeared in regional and national magazines as well as in galleries and exhibitions in Southwest Louisiana, France and Québec, including Le Musée acadien du Québec.

Whether creating silk compositions or commercial art, Barra says she “feels compelled to share ideas and stories” through her art.

“That a person may enjoy the work that I create,” she says, “brings me joy.”

26 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
 ILLUSTRATION BY S.E.GEORGE
Megan Barra Born 1959, Baton Rouge Residence Lafayette Inspiration South Louisiana music Southwest Louisiana landscape Medium Silk fabric Favorite Imagery Louisiana musicians Web meganbarra.com See more of Megan Barra’s art online at AcadianaProfile.com L’ART
MEET THE ARTIST
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 27

Light & Lively

A redesign in Lake Charles blends natural light with soft colors and bold moments.

28 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM LA MAISON
BY MISTY MILIOTO PHOTOS BY HAYLEI SMITH The drink bar features colorful green cabinets and a small painting from The Foyer in Baton Rouge.

When residents in Lake Charles decided to update the interiors of the nearly 5,900-square-foot home they built nine years ago, they turned to Rachel Cannon, founder, creative director and principal interior designer at Baton Rouge-based Rachel Cannon Limited. “The homeowner was in a sorority with a friend of mine and sought us out when they needed help with their home,” Cannon says.

The five-bedroom, six-bath home, which is located on a golf course, previously lacked cohesive design and did not reflect the homeowners’ tastes. “There was a lot of pink, and she doesn’t really like pink,” Cannon says. “We sought out to help change that.” Instead, Cannon turned to nature, the dessert case at the bakery and fashion for inspiration. She then infused the home with greens and blues to draw on the exterior landscape, plus touches of coral to brighten the space.

(Left)The painting in the foyer is a commissioned work from Baton Rouge artist, Kim Meadowlark. (Top, right) The dining room chairs are covered in Perennials performance fabric.

(Bottom)The two stacked paintings in the living room belonged to the client, so Cannon gave them a place of prominence in the living room.

“We knew it needed to be energetic but peaceful, which is not an easy combo,” Cannon adds. “Those small additions of a slightly brighter green and the coral help to make the space feel peaceful and fun.”

While each project turns out quite differently, Cannon and her team follow the same processes to reach the final result. In this instance, which included selecting paint colors, furnishings, rugs, art and accessories, Cannon followed a specific process for

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 29

soft furnishings. It included an in-home consultation, a design services proposal, scheduling dates by which furnishings must be chosen, design inspiration (including a private Pinterest board to share ideas), space planning, creating the design scheme, ordering, follow up and installation.

“We call our aesthetic vibrant traditionalism,” Cannon says. “We take the best of classic design and infuse a little joy with our color palettes. We helped [the homeowner] find her aesthetic. Before, she couldn’t tell you what she wanted, but she knew what she didn’t like and what didn’t work for them. The house has really beautiful natural light, so we wanted to play into that with a foundation of soft color and a few bold moments sprinkled throughout.”

For example, playful wallpaper in the powder bath flaunts an assortment of lips in varying shades of coral on a light blue background. And in the foyer, Baton Rouge artist Kim Meadowlark created a commissioned piece of artwork on white background with peppy pops of color.

30 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
(Left, top) The blue and green pillows on the living room sofa are in the iconic Carnival pattern from Christopher Farr Cloth. (Bottom) The living room features calming colors and comfortable seating. All of the furniture was custom ordered through Rachel Cannon Limited Interiors. (Right) The art installation over the two chairs flanking the pedimented cabinet are a combo of pieces already owned by the client. The two larger pieces are from The Foyer in Baton Rouge. All of the decorative lighting is from Capital City Lighting in Baton Rouge.

While wood flooring anchors most of the floor plan, the homeowners recently installed brick flooring in the kitchen. Cannon introduced color to the area with blue barstools that also help to tie together the public spaces on the first floor.

Cannon selected performance fabrics for the redesign, making it easier for the homeowners to maintain the new design elements for years to come. “While no fabric is totally indestructible, there are so many advances in upholstery that it makes it so much easier to not have to compromise taste for durability,” she says.

Overall, Cannon explains that this project is a great example of how her firm can easily work with clients remotely. “Our process is the same, whether clients are in town or out of town, and we are structured so that it should be easy for the client to move through the process,” she says. T

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 33
(Facing page) The Lips wallpaper in the powder room is by Voutsa. (Left) Cannon sourced the majority of decorative accessories from Wayfair. (Right, top) A gorgeous spiral staircase leads to the second floor. (Bottom) A closer look at the commissioned painting by Baton Rouge artist, Kim Meadowlark.
SCENE IN THEACADIANAREGION CONT I N U E S TOGROW WITH A VARIETYOFLOUISIANACRAFT BREW S ts a
THEBREWERY
tely suds

Not only offering a place to drink incredible craft beer, breweries play an important role by bringing folks together within the community. Breweries also attract and retain talent, and Acadiana is growing both in breweries and in those who are upping the

ante

on what makes a craft beer so special. Here are a few of our favorites across the region.

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 35
BY JOSEPH VIDRINE

Adopted Dog Brewing

WHEN RYAN PÉCOT, owner and managing partner at Adopted Dog Brewing, found the perfect piece of real estate for a brewery, he hopped on the opportunity.

“When I decided to move forward with the project, I had visited roughly 120 breweries in my travels and always felt that Lafayette would greatly benefit from having multiple breweries,” he says. “Great towns have great places for people to congregate, and well-executed breweries often foster this type of environment. For a community our size, it was wild to me that there were no breweries within the city limits.”

Pécot opened Adopted Dog Brewing in February 2023 and named it following a suggestion from his wife, Traci. “Both of our puppies (Tchoupitoulas and Paws) are adopted dogs and inspirational in our decision to develop Adopted Dog Brewing, MidCity Restaurant + Bar and Paws & Paw Paws, which are some of our other businesses,” he says.

Adopted Dog Brewing’s tasting room features industrial design with lots of dog artwork and repurposed keg features. It’s con-

nected to the brewhouse so that customers are up close and personal with brewery equipment and operations. There’s also a large outside patio, a party deck and stage for live music, a private space for smaller parties and a turf yard. In addition to the family- and dog-friendly spaces, the brewery offers a tasty food menu (think wings, smash burgers, sandwiches and flatbreads) and traditional beer options.

TOP SUD The 337 (a blueberry blonde lager) is the best seller and flagship beer at Adopted Dog Brewing. While the beer is fruited, it is a light lager with just enough blueberry added during the fermentation process to offer a hint of fresh sweetness.

Since opening, the brewery has grown to now offer 18 beers on tap. Of those, 14 brews are constant, and the other four rotate depending on collaborations and the time of year. “We offer two new beers each season, and we have two overarching six-month seasonal beers,” Pécot says. “To note, the Seedless (watermelon wheat) and Dude’s Trip (winter warmer) were huge hits. One of my personal favorites was the Summer Sizzle, which was a jalapeño pale ale. Of our regulars, both the Doberman Dark (lager) and Krayt Dragonfruit (sour) are popular. The Krayt sour is so popular, that we actually spun the base recipe off into a now-permanent Sour Series that is constantly changing but always available.”

Adopted Dog Brewing also hosts events throughout the year, such as trivia, bingo and live comedy. “This year, we’ll definitely host another Okteauxberfest, WinterFest and New Year’s Eve party,” Pécot adds.

ATS T ELY SUDS 329
36 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
DULLES DRIVE, LAFAYETTE 337-504-5400 ADOPTEDDOGBREWING.COM

James Lutgring

James Lutgring first began home brewing in 2003 and then professionally in 2015. Over the years, he has honed his craft and now puts his technical knowledge to the test at Adopted Dog Brewing. “I knew that James appreciated the history of beer, established grain bills and yeast types, which I feel is a necessary component to brew great beer,” Pécot says. “Once we had our core offerings established, he began experimenting with some unique and fun seasonal beers to offer a fresh variety to our customers.”

LEAD BREWER

TOP SUD The Don’t Blush Raspberry Berliner Weisse is a cloudy sour North German brew that dates back to at least the 16th century. It features wheat notes for a soft background and delicate mouthfeel, while raspberry acidic flavors create a refreshing but unique summer-style brew.

Crying Eagle Brewing Company

ERIC AVERY AND HIS FAMILY opened Crying Eagle Brewing Company in 2016 after an inspirational trip to Saint Arnold Brewing Company in Houston. “Eric saw how welcoming the environment was to all types of people and all walks of life, and he fell in love with the sense of community the brewery provided,” says General Manager Amber Jay. “He wanted to recreate something similar for our area.”

Today, Ryan O’Donnell (who has 28 years of experience as a brewer) serves as Crying Eagle’s brewmaster. “His brewing style is unique, taking a more culinary approach to brewing by playing on flavor profiles you would find in your favorite recipes,” Jay

says. “We started with just three beers, and now we keep 20 different beers on tap at all times.”

Crying Eagle’s top sellers include Louisiana Lager (a clean, crisp lager), Things Unsettled (dry hopped with tropical flavors) and Dark Honey (a traditional dark German lager brewed with locally sourced raw wildflower honey) and the brewery also offers a multitude of seasonal brews that are rotated on tap throughout the year (plus craft cocktails). There’s also a full-service bistro with menu items like salads, nachos, wings, sandwiches and pizza.

“We pride ourselves as not only being a brewery, but also a community center, and a hub for art and entertainment, creative beers and cuisine and our customizable guest experience,” Jay says. “We boast live entertainment five days per week, and we host family events, a Summer Concert Series with huge regional acts, tap takeovers, Oktoberfest events, cookoffs, fitness classes, cooking classes, countless charity events throughout the year and much more.”

The owners are now building Crying Eagle’s second location off of the lakefront in downtown Lake Charles.

Ryan O’Donnell

He currently oversees all brewing and production operations, all recipe development and testing … not to be confused with tasting, which, he says, “I do a lot of.”

He adds, “Right now I’m heavily focused on developing lager recipes for our new Lakefront brewery. Those have a high degree of technical difficulty, but they are lots of fun to brew.”

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 39
LEAD BREWER
ATS T ELY SUDS 1165 E. MCNEESE ST., LAKE CHARLES 337-990-4871 CRYINGEAGLE.COM

Parish Brewing Co.

BACK IN 2009, when there weren’t many breweries in the South, Andrew Godley decided to open Parish Brewing Co. “I grew up in Louisiana, but I moved to Pittsburgh after college in 2002 and discovered a thriving beer scene and culture,” he says. “When I returned home, I immediately recognized the lack of small breweries making innovative products and decided that I would make that opportunity into a business. I had lucky timing and started Parish a few years before the large wave of new breweries arrived.”

At the beginning, Godley was the only person developing brews for Parish (with Canebrake being the sole brew). “It was really popular in New Orleans on draft, and I didn’t have any free capacity to brew anything else for a few years,” he says. “Today we have at least 20 beers in the taproom at any given time.”

Parish Brewing Co. now has a talented team of brewing experts that brew more than 20,000 barrels annually. “We are regarded as one of the highest quality breweries in America,” he says. “We are a big part of the local beer industry, making beers that the Louisiana market calls their own and consumes heavily, but, globally, people love our intense, innovative beers like Ghost in the Machine.”

In fact, Ghost in the Machine (a hoppy and slightly bitter beer) is Parish’s No. 1 beer, followed closely by Canebrake (a refreshing wheat beer brewed with sugarcane syrup). “This year, we celebrate 10 years of Ghost in the Machine,” Godley says. “Every month, we will re-release a Ghost variant or collaboration from the past that was a crowd favorite.”

Parish also brews 30 additional brews yearly, with seasonal beers also on rotation. “For example, we always release our Greetings From series beer annually just before summer — as it is a tiki cocktail-inspired fruit beer — perfect for hot days by the pool, on a boat or at the beach,” Godley says. TOP SUD Ghost in the Machine is a big hazy double IPA that tastes very fruity and juicy. All of that tropical grapefruit flavor is from hops— there isn’t any fruit

40 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
ATS T ELY SUDS 229 JARED DRIVE, BROUSSARD 337-330-8602 PARISHBEER.COM
added to this big beer that comes in at 8% ABV.

LEAD BREWER Ryan Speyrer

A head brewer at Parish Brewing Co., Ryan Speyrer is responsible for the initial production and brewing of the brewery’s suds. One of only a handful of Master Cicerones in the world, Speyrer is an expert in beer science. “He develops most of the recipes we now use today as well as managing many of the raw materials we source for our beers,” Godley says.

FOUNDER AND CEO ANDREW GODLY

TOP SUD

Voodoo is their featured brew. This juicy, hazy APA is heavily dry-hopped, using oats and wheat. It has melon, passion fruit, tangelo and pine flavors and aromas that come from Citra and Simcoe hops.

Tin Roof Brewing Co.

LOCATED IN WEST BATON ROUGE, and started by two childhood friends (Charles Caldwell and William McGehee), Tin Roof Brewing Co. produces a variety of Southern, handcrafted beers. It all started in the early 2000s when Caldwell fell in love with microbrewed beer while working on a ranch in Colorado. When Caldwell visited McGehee (who also developed a palate for finer beers during a law school summer abroad program in Europe), the duo decided to open a brewery and produced their first batch of beer for commercial consumption in November 2010.

Today, Tin Roof produces flagship, seasonal and sometimes experimental, single-batch beers, with everything from lagers and blondes to IPAs and stouts. Be sure to try the Voodoo — a heavily dry-hopped American Pale Ale, which relies on flaked wheat and oats to enhance the tropical and fruit flavors provided by the hops. The flavor profile includes melon, passion fruit, tangelo and pine.

In addition to beer, Tin Roof also offers Yoga on Tap (on the large outdoor lawn) and daily happy hours (except Saturdays). The tap room, outdoor area, private room and brewery also are available to rent for events like parties, wedding receptions and work meetings.

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 43
ATS T ELY SUDS 1624 WYOMING ST., BATON ROUGE 225-377-7022 TINROOFBEER.COM
BY CHERÉ COEN

History, art and culture can all be found within the walls of museums across Acadiana. Whether you’re going for a long trip or a day trip, the area’s musems deserve a spot on your itinerary!

Stepping into a museum is like entering a portal that transcends time, space and culture. The hushed reverence of its halls, adorned with masterpieces and artifacts, invites visitors into a realm where history, art and human creativity intertwine.

Acadiana has museums in spades, the perfect escape from the summer’s heat and an engaging experience for all ages. We’ll point you to a few, with options for day trips in the area.

Plan an afternoon to enjoy the museums and theaters of North Parkerson Avenue in Crowley. Start at City Hall inside the three-story Crowley Motor Co. & Ford Building, built in 1920 by the Ford Motor Company. The building today, in addition to government services, houses

four museums: the Rice Interpretive Center, History of Crowley, J.D. Miller Music Recording Studio and the Ford Automotive Museum. All offer free admission and are open weekdays. Another landmark beauty is the Grand Opera House of the South in the neighboring

46 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

Parents and eager children must wait until August until the Port Wonder Children’s Museum opens on the Lake Charles lakefront, the first new construction that’s occurred on the lakefront in nearly 20 years, said Matt Young, director of public relations for Visit Lake Charles. ¶ Until then, visits to the Historic City Hall Arts and Cultural Center is a must with its art exhibits and immersive arts and cultural programming. ¶ “This is a three-story museum downtown that features rotating nationally traveling exhibitions along with local art galleries,” Young said. ¶ The Artisans’ Gallery Spring Show is on display until June 15, then “Hit Me With Your Best Shot,” a national competition of bird photographs, arrives Sept. 27. ¶ DAY TRIP: Take a trip back in time and ride the rails at the DeQuincy Railroad Museum — perhaps not literally, but a vivid imagination will do. The town’s old depot contains items from the railroad industry of the last century, along with a 1947 Pullman coach car, a 1913 steam switch engine and two vintage cabooses.

block. Built in 1901, this impressive theater saw the likes of Enrico Caruso, Babe Ruth, Clark Gable and former Louisiana Gov. Huey Long grace its stage. It’s open for weekday tours by appointment.

Day Trip: Acadia Parish is home to three unique attrac-

tions within cemetery walls. Near Church Point lies the gravesite of Charlene Richard, known as “the little Cajun Saint,” at St. Edward Catholic Church Cemetery at 1463 Charlene Hwy. Many believe Richard interceded on their prayers. The Istre Cemetery near Morse contains three small Acadian-style houses

built over graves, all of which have been placed on the National Register of Historic Places and on the Louisiana Trust for Historic Preservation’s Endangered Places List. St. Joseph’s Cemetery in Rayne is believed to be the only Christian cemetery in the United States where the graves face north to south.

OPELOUSAS

In the heart of Opelousas, at 315 N. Main St. in the circa-1820 Joseph Richard Wier Memorial Building, lies an impressive collection of images and artifacts that not only tell the story of St. Landry Parish history, but also the diverse cultures of the area.

“Lay your eyes on a colorful Peace Pipe crafted from stone, deer horn, turkey feathers and beads; it comes from the Chitimacha people,” said Patrice Melnick, museum director, who loves showing off her museum. “Check out the barbershop display that harkens back to 1934 when outlaw Clyde Barrow of Bonnie and Clyde fame got his last haircut before his final demise. Also notable are the Civil War room, historic doll collections and a music exhibit that airs a video about Clifton Chenier, a zydeco legend who was a native of the Opelousas area.”

The museum’s latest exhibit, “Free People of Color in St. Landry Parish,” tells the story of the parish’s educated entrepreneurs who laid the groundwork for modern St. Landry’s economy and culture.

Day Trip: Head west to Eunice where several museums are located in the heart of town: the Eunice Depot Museum housed in an old train station, the Cajun Music Hall of Fame and Museum and the Prairie Acadian Cultural Center of the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve.

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 47

AVOYELLES PARISH

Children will be amazed at the items lining the shelves of the Adam Ponthieu Grocery Store and Big Bend Post Office in Moreauville. It’s an Americana time capsule from when the building was used as the community’s general store and connection to the outer world.

Nearby is the Sarto Old Iron Bridge dating to 1916. This unique engineering marvel that crosses Bayou des Glaises was the first bridge listed on the National Register of Historic Places in Louisiana.

Day Trip: Solomon Northup was a free man living in New York in 1841 when he was kidnapped and sold into slavery in Avoyelles Parish. Later freed, he wrote of his experience in the memoir, “Twelve Years a Slave.” Travel the Northup Trail today to see where Northup lived, worked and finally gained his freedom at the Avoyelles Parish Courthouse in Marksville by visiting byways. explorelouisiana.com/ byway/northup-trail.

It’s easy to spend a day visiting all of Lafayette’s museums so it’s best to divide them into three. Downtown Lafayette offers the Children’s Museum of Acadiana and Lafayette Science Museum, both of which offer environments that allow kids’ imaginations to soar. For the art lover, the Acadiana Center for the Arts provides several exhibit spaces to explore. The Alexandre Mouton House, also called the Lafayette Museum, displays Lafayette history in the home of Louisiana’s 11th governor, Alexandre Mouton. ¶ Over on the University of Louisiana at Lafayette campus, the Hilliard Art Museum provides several galleries showcasing the museum’s both resident and visiting artwork. The building itself is a sight to see, and at night it glows! ¶ Two living history museums teach the story of Lafayette’s — and Acadiana’s — origins. Vermilionville Historic Village has assembled several historic buildings at its site along the Vermilion River and LARC’s Acadian Village has done the same on 32 acres on the west side of town. ¶ DAY TRIP: Travel down Interstate 49 to Morgan City to walk on an authentic oil rig. The Rig Museum showcases “Mr. Charlie,” an oil rig used in countless oil explorations and drilling but now teaches visitors about the Cajun-born offshore petroleum industry.

There are several Louisiana units of the Jean Lafitte National Park and Preserve and Thibodaux’s unit explores Acadian history “down the bayou” at the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center. In addition to its historic exhibits, the center hosts boat

48 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

tours of Bayou Lafourche, walking tours of downtown Thibodaux, live music, French circles and summer camps. In Houma, the Bayou Terrebonne Waterlife Museum celebrates the industries and traditions that make up bayou life in South Louisiana.

Art exhibits, history and oversized alligators — don’t worry, they're stuffed! — are on hand for visitors to enjoy. The museum is open daily except Mondays.

Day Trip: It’s a bit of a trek down La. Hwy. 56 south of Houma to visit the outdoor

Chauvin Sculpture Garden, but it’s worth the drive. Bricklayer Kenny Hill created more than 100 concrete pieces — we’re talking angels, people and a 45-foot-tall lighthouse — within his small plot of bayouside land. The Kohler Foundation with Nicholls

State allows visitors to view this unique site. For more information, call the Nicholls State University Division of Art at (985) 448-4597 or visit nicholls.edu/folkartcenter/ park.html

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 49

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Sweet Infusions

Take a sip of summer with a refreshing gin tipple imbued with ripe strawberries and a touch of effervescence

Elevated comfort food, seasonal craft cocktails and daily brunch served until 3 p.m. are central to the allure of Peter Sclafani’s chic new SoLou (short for South Louisiana) near River Ranch. The stylish neighborhood eatery recently joined the growing list of Baton Rouge-based restaurants that have successfully expanded into the Lafayette market. New brunch items such as Friends with Benedicts (a riff on the classic) complement favorites such as boudin biscuit sliders and shrimp and grits with a rosemary pork tasso gravy.

As CEO of Making Raving Fans Hospitality Group (MRFHG), Sclafani has employed new Chef de Cuisine Blake Yount and the same design team that crafted the original, verdant SoLou on Perkins Road.

“We wanted the décor to resemble our Baton Rouge location with a similar theme that brings the outside in, with lots of plants and an inviting patio,” says Sclafani.

“Brunch is a major thing at SoLou, so we’ve introduced a Bloody Mary bar in Lafayette,” he adds. “We’re also incorporating local products like Poupart’s bread into new menus that include dishes unique to Acadiana and specialty cocktails.”

Such popular lunch and dinner “shareables” as shrimp corn dogs (perched vertically on sticks) with spicy mustard dipping sauce and do-it-yourself tabletop s’mores cooked over mini concrete fire pits are featured along with SoLou’s signature libations tied to the seasons.

“Strawberry Hill is the perfect cocktail for a summer day and a laid-back brunch, preferably on SoLou’s patio,” says Shauna Reader, director of operations. “It is light and refreshing with just a touch of sweetness.”

An easy-to-make, crowd-pleasing cocktail, SoLou’s enticing summer libation begins with a strawberry-infused gin that can be made in advance. Lemon juice tempers its fruity sweetness and an effervescent component allows the botanical notes of the juniper-forward spirit to shine. With its visually alluring layers and sweet-sour sparkle, SoLou’s Strawberry Hill is a refreshing summer sipper that is suitable for any occasion. 

SoLou’s Strawberry Hill

TO MAKE INFUSED GIN:

Blend 1 liter bottle of gin with one pint of hulled and quartered strawberries. Let alcohol and strawberries soak for 4-5 days. Strain out the liquid and store. Good for up to 3 weeks.

Pour 2 ounces strawberry-infused gin, 1 ounce fresh lemon juice and ¾ ounce simple syrup into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake for 5 seconds. Then pour into a fresh glass and top with 3 ounces of soda water or sparkling wine, whichever you prefer. Garnish with halved strawberries

RECETTES DE COCKTAILS SOLOU LAFAYETTE 1905 KALISTE SALOOM ROAD LAFAYETTE EATSOLOU.COM
HOME BAR
54 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM

NOODLING AROUND

Lafayette's Mae Sone Noodle House offers tasty comfort food

Asian flavors abound inside the walls of Mae Sone Noodle House in Lafayette. Owners Khamsamone and Kieth Amonsine are originally from Laos but their restaurant’s menu features dishes in which Thai, Vietnamese, Laotian and Chinese cooking styles and cultural influences satisfy diners daily.

Inside an unassuming restaurant, located in a salt of the earth-style strip mall off of Johnston Street, a foodie will find culinary bliss in the way of fusionstyled Asian food.

Hub City eaters who appreciate the complexities and nuances of Asian cuisine know that Mae Sone Noodle House is a treasure.

When the place opens up for lunch at 11 a.m. and again for dinner at 5 p.m., it is understood that being five minutes late means you will have to wait.

Yet, the restaurant’s fans realize the brilliance of the food put on display by husband and wife owner and chef team Kieth and Khamsamone Amonsine.

56 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM DÎNER DEHORS
Soups are featured prominently on Mae Sone Noodle House’s menu. A bowl of 'yen ta fo' (pink noodle soup) features wide flat noodles with sliced lean pork, fish balls, shrimp, squid, soybean cake and vegetables.

Preparing dishes with fresh ingredients is of utmost importance to the Amonsine cooking team. From smoldering curry dishes to stir-fried broccoli with oyster sauce, Mae Sone’s dishes are flavorful and fresh tasting.

Saying the ingredients used to prepare dishes are fresh is too simple of a concept. The Amonsines just know how to pick the best vegetables, seafood and meats which they use to cook Thai, Vietnamese, Laotian and Chinese dishes.

“Before I was born, Dad used to work at a Chinese buffet in Morgan City. That is where he learned the Chinese style of cooking he still does,” said Sierra Amonsine, the couple’s 29-year-old daughter.

The Amonsines are from Laos. Their cooking is reminiscent of Louisiana home cooks who have perfected the mingling of French, West African, Spanish, English, German and Middle Eastern influences to our regional cuisine.

Sierra explains that Chinese and Southeast Asian culinary influences are what her parents have mastered everyday...it is in their kitchen creation DNA.

For instance, ladna is featured on the restaurant menu. This is a Lao and Chinese dish featuring panfried noodles with Chinese broccoli and served with either beef, chicken, pork or shrimp or all combined.

58 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
4807
MAE SONE NOODLE HOUSE
JOHNSTON ST. UNIT K LAFAYETTE 337-406-0850

TRY THIS!

1

Panang Meat

Ask for it this way… panang curry with fish and add crispy pork belly on top. The flavors and textures mixed together are bliss.

2

Stir-Fried Seafood

Get the combo with shrimp and squid. The seafood is cooked with chili, garlic and basil. When you finish eating, you will have a better appreciation for the essence of flavor.

3

Eggplants

On the menu, it reads just like that. Here is the description: "deep fried slices of Japanese eggplants topped with your choice of stir-fried beef, chicken or pork cooked with chili and sweet basil"… delicious.

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 59
Thai tea with milk or Thai Iced coffee with milk, or Vietnamese iced coffee? No matter what you choose, the taste of Southeast Asia is offered at Mae Sone Noodle House.

“My favorite ladna is with crispy pork belly. This is one of the things I’ve been eating since I was a child. It has always been my go-to dish. When we traveled to Laos I ate it there but nothing compares to my dad’s,” Sierra said.

Another dish that entices diners to come back for more is the poor man fried noodles which consists of stir-fried rice noodles with carrots, broccoli, chive leaves, bean sprouts, black mushrooms and garlic. You can climb the ladder to working man noodles which means adding beef, chicken, pork or shrimp. Rich man noodles include a combination of all meats or a seafood combo.

The restaurant's repeat customers also readily order the pho, yen ta fo (wide flat noodles with sliced lean pork, fish balls, shrimp, squid, soybean cake and vegetables), beef noodle salad, larb, Mae Sone omelet, and all Thai-style curry dishes.

“My family wants people to feel like you are eating at grandmother's. This place has a comfy and cozy feeling to it,” Sierra said. “Our food is fresh and made to order.” 

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 61
Food lovers who have a weak spot for noodles will get their fix at Mae Sone Noodle House in Lafayette.

LEARNING TO FISH

The joy of catching and cooking fish

I learned to fish from my father. When I was a youngster he often took me with him to drop a line in the brown-green languid waters in the Atchafalaya Basin. I enjoyed the time we spend together on the water that teemed with sac-alait, perch, goggle-eye and gaspergou. Even as a youngster, I was enthralled by the sights, sounds and smells that surrounded us while we quietly meandered through the swamp, catching a few here, a few there.

While we waited for the fish to bite, Papa pointed out a heron or an egret that lighted on the limbs of a bald cypress, or a shy red-eared turtle sunning on a fallen log. Being deathly afraid of snakes and hornets, I spent a lot of time scanning the tree limbs under which Papa stopped to cast his line.

When I was older, I graduated to fishing in Vermilion Bay, which I thought was more my cup of tea. The wide-open water smelled of sea salt and had no tree stumps to avoid, and on a good day we brought home firm-fleshed and tasty speckled trout, flounders, croakers and sometimes a redfish. But it was going out into the Gulf of Mexico that thrilled me even more. And the fish — grouper, red snapper, pompano — were not only fun to snag, but also made for delicious eating!

In these warm days of summer, a leisurely repast is ideal for a late afternoon on the screen porch overlooking Bayou Teche.

To begin, offer small sandwiches of grouper and fried green tomatoes to munch on washed down with whatever cool drink is your poison--chilled white wine or vodka and tonic is what I usually go for. 

62 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM DE LA CUISINE

It’s tomato season so you should be able to find local Creole tomatoes, which I think have the best flavor. If you can’t find grouper, by all means use any firm white fish — catfish, redfish, or speckled trout — that’s available.

STARTER

Tomato Bread Pudding

2 tablespoons butter

3 large tomatoes, trimmed and quartered

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped sweet basil

2 tablespoons chopped Greek oregano

½ cup olive oil

10 cups cubed French or Italian bread

2 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

8 eggs

1 cup grated Fontina cheese

1 cup grated mozzarella cheese

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 3-quart shallow baking dish.

2. Toss tomatoes in a bowl with salt, pepper, basil, oregano and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Arrange tomatoes in one layer on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Roast until lightly browned, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.

3. Toss cubed bread with remaining olive oil to coat evenly. Spread evenly on a sheet pan and bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool.

4. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Whisk together milk, cream and eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in cheeses. Transfer bread to prepared baking dish, then pour egg mixture over bread and add tomatoes, pushing down into bread and custard. Bake until firm to touch and golden brown in spots, 50 to 60 minutes. Serve warm. Makes 8 servings

Vegetable or canola oil for frying

4 (6-inch) po’boy buns, cut lengthwise in half

¼ cup melted butter

Tartar sauce (optional) for garnish

Lemon wedges (optional) for garnish

1. Combine flour, cornstarch and seasoning mix in a shallow bowl and set aside. Rub fillets with salt and cayenne. Put buttermilk in a shallow bowl.

2. Heat oil (about three inches) in a deep, heavy pot or electric fryer to about 350 degrees. Dredge fillets first in flour mixture, shaking off any excess, then dip in buttermilk, allowing any excess to drip off, then dredge again in flour. Fry fillets until golden, five to six minutes, and drain on paper towels. Keep warm.

3. Brush inside of buns with melted butter and toast lightly.

4. Put a fillet on one side of bun and top with remaining side. Slice into small serving pieces. Serve with fried green tomatoes, tartar sauce and lemon wedges. Makes 8 small sandwiches. ON THE SIDE

Fried Green Tomatoes

4-6 medium-size tomatoes (not very ripe and on green side), thickly sliced

Salt and black pepper

½ cup vegetable oil

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup buttermilk

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup cornmeal

MAIN DISH

Fried Grouper Sandwich

1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup cornstarch

1 tablespoon Creole or Cajun seasoning mix

4 (4 to 5 ounce) grouper fillets

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne

½ cup buttermilk

1. Season tomatoes generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Put flour in a shallow bowl. Combine buttermilk and eggs in another shallow bowl, and put cornmeal in yet another shallow bowl.

2. Dredge tomatoes first in flour, shaking off any excess, then dip in milk and egg mixture, then dredge in cornmeal, tapping off any excess. Fry tomatoes, in batches, until golden, about two minutes on each side. Add more oil if necessary. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm. Makes 8 servings

ACADIANAPROFILE.COM 63
To get a recipe for Stuffed Broiled Flounder, visit AcadianaProfile.com

Les Restaurants de mon cœur

Une affaire de famille

Le confort qui vient avec le souvenir des bonnes odeurs et saveurs qui émanaient des cuisines de notre enfance est souvent la source d’un bonheur profond et d’une inspiration créatrice. Le romancier français Marcel Proust a mis en marche son œuvre magistrale, À la recherche du temps perdu, rien qu’avec l’évocation d’une simple pâtisserie, une madeleine. Notre relation avec la nourriture est à la fois immédiate et ancestrale, transcendant le temps et les générations. Apprendre à cuisiner auprès de sa mère et de sa grand-mère est parfois le début d’une carrière culinaire, comme dans le cas du plus célèbre chef cadien, Paul Prudhomme qui a appris à manier une cuillère en bois de sa mère, Hazel.

Dans mon village natif de Canal Yankee, il n’existait que des restaurants locaux, pas de chaînes nationales bien sûr. Ils étaient néanmoins d’une qualité exceptionnelle. Je me souviens en particulier de deux d’entre eux dont mes amis d’enfance et moi parlons encore. Le premier se situait sur la rive gauche du Bayou Lafourche dans un lieu-dit appelé la Pointe à saucisses, ou tout simplement la Pointe. Ti-Ya’s servait des po-boys de rosbif qui ont atteint un statut mythique. Le pain divin venant de la boulangerie légendaire Dufrene, juste de l’autre côté du pont, ne pouvait qu’à peine contenir la sauce au jus qui dégoulinait de tout bord. On passait autant de temps à se lécher les doigts afin de ne pas en perdre une goutte qu’à croquer à belles dents le pain croustillant surchargé de viande, de laitue et de tomate. Je plains le monde qui n’a pas connu un tel délice. L’autre restaurant était tenu par des cousins et ma famille y allait religieusement chaque dimanche après la messe. La Nouvelle-Orléans peut avoir Galatoire’s, Paris le Fouquet’s et New York Tavern on the Green. À Canal Yankee, Randolph’s Restaurant était une institution. Ce n’était qu’en arrivant à l’ouest de l’Atchafalaya que j’ai entendu la phrase, « un temps de gombo ». Toute l’année, on y servait du gombo sublime. Dans la cuisine, la mère du propriétaire, Mme Freddia, une

dame cadienne du genre qu’on ne reverra plus, régnait en maîtresse des lieux. Quant au propriétaire éponyme, M. Randolph était un homme jovial, travailleur et plutôt farceur. Avec son tablier blanc et une serviette drapée sur son épaule, il passait dans la salle saluer ses clients avec un rire infectieux et une bonne blague avant de regagner les cuisines non-climatisées. Même si la bâtisse a disparu depuis longtemps, la tradition continue avec son fils Randy qui est instructeur à l’Institut Culinaire John Folse à Thibodaux.

Si on énumère ses restaurants locaux préférés, la liste sera probablement composée presque exclusivement d’établissements gérés par des membres d’une même famille depuis des générations. Ils ont sans doute appris le métier au coude d’une aînée, le même savoir-faire qu’ils vont transmettre à leurs descendants, qu’ils soient restaurateurs ou pas. On peut faire une école de cuisine, mais la meilleure école est sans doute celle où l’amour familial est l’ingrédient principal.T

64 JUNE/JULY 2024 ACADIANAPROFILE.COM EN FRANÇAIS, S’IL VOUS PLAÎT - DES ARCHIVES For an English translation visit AcadianaProfile.com

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