A new book about artist Francis Pavy chronicles his work from 1985-2024
20 UN VOYAGE AU VILLAGE Girlfriends Getaway
56
DU CHEF
Chef Logan Boudreaux of Cinclare Bar & Table in Thibodaux
58
RECETTE DE COCKTAILS Spoonbill Watering Hole’s Su Casa recipe inspires spring celebrations in Lafayette
64
EN FRANÇAIS, S’IL VOUS PLAÎT Une distinction qui mérite une appellation
24
LA MAISON
An atomic-age ranch in Bendel Gardens gets a glow-up be tting its midcentury roots 22
EDITORIAL
Editor Reine Dugas
Copy Editor Liz Clearman
Web Editor Kelly Massicot
Art Director Sarah E.G. Majeste
Lead Photographer Danley Romero
Food Photographer Eugenia Uhl
Home Photographer Haylei Smith
SALES
Sales Manager Rebecca Taylor
337-298-4424
337-235-7919 Ext. 7230
Rebecca@AcadianaPro le.com
RENAISSANCE PUBLISHING
PRODUCTION
Digital Director Rosa Balaguer Arostegui
Senior Production Designer
Ashley Pemberton
Production Designer Czarlyn Ria Trinidad
MARKETING
Marketing Manager Greer Stewart
Sponsored Content Coordinator
Jeremy Marshall
Visual Media Producer Mallary Wolfe
CIRCULATION
Distribution John Holzer
ADMINISTRATION
O ce Manager Emily Ruiz
Chief Executive O cer Todd Matherne
For Subscriptions Call 877-221-3512
110 VETERANS BLVD., SUITE 123 METAIRIE, LA 70005
504-828-1380
128 DEMANADE, SUITE 104 LAFAYETTE, LA 70503
337-235-7919 XT 7230
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
A Look at Louisiana Creators
LOUISIANA IS A STATE filled with artists, musicians, storytellers, and just about any other creative you can imagine. The music alone that has come out of our state is legendary. Mahalia Jackson, Louis Armstrong, Jelly Roll Morton, Dr. John, Lucinda Williams, Buckwheat Zydeco, Zachary Richard — there’s far too many to list. From zydeco to blues, jazz and bounce, the music puts Louisiana on the cultural map. The same goes for artists and writers. Because we are known for our culture and arts, we’ve decided to do our Trailblazers feature a little different this year. Here, we highlight people who are trailblazing in creative ways. We are celebrating makers and their crafts.
From hatmakers to paper makers and more, our Acadiana Profile writers give a glimpse into the craft and work coming out of Louisiana these days. Also in this issue, Erin Z. Bass explores the art of lifelong Louisiana resident, Francis Pavy, who passed away last year. Pavy worked in glass and paint, and his vibrant work focused on all things Louisiana, especially nature.
In our feature, Kevin Rabalais offers a compelling look into hoop net fishing, an interesting part of Louisiana culture. While not at first glance an art, there is an artistry to fishing, in the setting of the nets and the instinct that goes along with the task.
One of my favorite things to do is wander along the Warehouse District in New Orleans and check out the many art galleries there or do the same in the French Quarter, but listen to music. You can find a piece of Louisiana culture most places you go.
We enjoy so many of the riches Louisiana has to o er, and whenever visitors come here, I am sure to let them know about the music, art and food. For me, those are some of the best things about living here — the things that, when times are tough, make up for that.
What I'm Loving
A FEW OF THE BEST THINGS I ATE, WATCHED AND READ LAST MONTH
WHAT TO DO
New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. All that music and food in one spot is worth the crowds and mercurial weather. I’m de nitely seeing Dee Dee Bridgewater and Bill Charlap this year.
WHAT TO WATCH “Severance.” It’s a dark, mind-bending escape from reality. Or is it? The premise is interesting and the cinematography is great. Obsessed!
WHAT TO READ
“The God of the Woods” by Liz Moore. Another mystery. Lots of threads in the rst half but then they come together, and it’s hard to put the book down until the last page.
Summoning Literature Lovers
Mary Kay Andrews, New York Times bestselling author of over 30 novels, is the Great Southern Writer featured at New Iberia’s 9th annual Books Along the Teche Literary Festival (April 4-6). Events honoring New Iberia author James Lee Burke include Readers’ Theatre from the James Lee Burke book, ‘‘The New Iberia Blues,’’ Dave’s Haunts and Jaunts Mystery Bus Tour and the Dave Robicheaux walking tour. Unique to the region’s literary leanings: Storytelling Traditions in Acadiana led by Barry Jean Ancelet and Darrell Bourque, Traiteurs: The Traditional Cajun French Folk Healers in the 21st Century led by Mary Perrin, T-Boy’s boat tour of Bayou Teche and a Saturday night fais-do-do culminating with Sunday’s Acadiana Symphony concert held in the shade of massive live oaks.
AGENDA
APRIL 4 - 6
Scott Boudin Festival
Boudin a cionados and music lovers gather in Scott to enjoy live music and a dizzying array of boudin o erings from Acadiana’s top purveyors. Enter the boudin eating contest for prizes.
APRIL 10 - 12
Louisiana Railroad Days Festival
OPELOUSAS AI Game
Changer for St. Landry
An innovative new charter school recently started construction on a pioneering, state-of-the-art educational facility in Opelousas. The ground-breaking 42,000-square-foot Helix Arti cial Intelligence & Medical Academy (Helix AIM) will o er an immersive STEM-based education with a unique focus on arti cial intelligence and healthcare. Opening in the fall, Helix AI and Medical will initially serve students in kindergarten through fth grade, with plans to expand to sixth through eighth grades. The school’s cuttingedge curriculum will feature projectbased leadership development and preparing students for the future AI demands of the workforce.
The family-friendly, no-alcohol event is celebrated by many participating local businesses, clubs, churches and schools. Enjoy the parade, carnival rides, food, music and children’s activities in DeQuincy’s historic Railroad Museum Park.
APRIL 12
Vermilion Parish Student Arts Expo
The Acadiana Center for the Arts’ inaugural event showcases myriad downtown street activities, including live painting demos, hands-on art activities and a students’ art market featuring artwork by students from pre-K to 12th grade.
APRIL 9 , 11 - 13
New Iberia Spanish Festival
Celebrate the founding of the city by the Spanish in 1799 with Fiesta Flamenco, paella/ tapas/jambalaya cooko , children’s cooko and a Mass of Thanksgiving at St. Peter’s Catholic Church.
APRIL 23 - 27
Festival International de Louisiane
Over 90 music acts including Black Uhuru of Jamaica; YAGÓDY, one of Ukraine’s top talents; Chicago’s 30-member choreographed rock ‘n roll marching band, Mucca Pazza and Brooklyn’s Red Baraat, a pioneering party band that gets crowds dancing with Punjabi rhythms and hip-hop.
NEW IBERIA
Inaugural Drone Pilot Program
The demand for certified drone pilots continues to rise across industries, from agriculture to emergency response and real estate. The Southern University Agricultural Research and Extension Center recently debuted its inaugural FAA Part 107 unmanned aircraft certification course in Opelousas. The pioneering initiative aims to equip youth with the skills and credentials needed to operate small drones for commercial purposes while also enhancing their entrepreneurial potential, thus opening doors to myriad emerging industries. Led by a distinguished team of certified pilots, the cohort was established with the nonprofit Hope for Opelousas organization. The certification program is the first initiative under Precision Agcademy operating under the umbrella of SU Ag Center’s Youth Development Program. To inquire about enrollment, contact Dr. Charity Scha er at charity_scha er@ suagcenter.com or call 225-222-4136.
LAFAYETTE Sports Medicine Center
Upgrade
A new 31,000square-foot expansion of Ochsner’s orthopedics and sports medicine center is currently underway (4212 W. Congress St.). Estimated at $19 million, the comprehensive upgrade will add a 17,000-square-foot modernization to the existing orthopedic facilities and a 14,000-squre-foot expansion for physical therapy and sports medicine services. The stateof-the-art facility will be equipped with cutting edge technology. New radiology, triage and treatment rooms will be housed in a sleek, modern environment featuring aluminum composite panels and expansive glazing to re ect the facility’s commitment to innovation.
MAY 2 - 4
Breaux Bridge
Craw sh Festival
Sign-up for the dancing contests and feast on craw sh prepared in every imaginable way. Then party at the craw sh races, craw sh eating contests, craw sh étou ée cook-o , cooking demos, Cajun dance lessons and festival parade.
MAY 2 - 12
The Louisiana Pirate Festival
Celebrate the legends of pirate Jean La tte. The festival begins with cannon re, followed by pirates capturing the mayor and forcing him to walk the plank. Costume contests, games and carnival rides, arts and crafts are some of the many attractions.
MAY 8 - 10
Boggy Bayou Festival
Held as a fundraiser for the Prairie ManorNursing Home, the fest features pageants, a parade, food, crafts, live music and kids’ activities including the recently introduced mutton busting, which translates to children riding sheep.
MAY 22 - 25
Jambalaya Festival
In the Lamar Dixon Expo Center in Gonzales, professional chefs and home cooks gather for the jambalaya cook-o and mini-pot cooko . The car show brings a lineup of classic cars, hot rods and custom builds.
APRIL 12 -DECEMBER 20
Acadiana Center for the Arts’ 50th anniversary celebration
The public is invited to contribute personal memories and experiences for a new publication that will serve as a tribute to the people, programs, artists and performances throughout Acadiana; slated for a fall release.
OPELOUSAS
Girlfriends Getaway
There’s nothing like checking into a resort with girlfriends, kicking back and letting loose. Lake Charles casinos L’Auberge and Golden Nugget o er everything friends would want for an enjoyable getaway — and you never have to leave the property! Both resorts located on the Calcasieu River feature indulgent spas, extravagant pool complexes, a variety of dining options, live entertainment and, of course, gambling options. And because they’re located next to each other, visitors may enjoy both.
Get Moving
In addition to the resorts’ massive casino oors, dining options and lounges that o er live music, both casinos host major entertainment acts in theatrestyle arenas. Look for KC and the Sunshine Band in April at L’Auberge. At Golden Nugget, Collective Soul, Dru Hill and Chase Matthew visit in April.
HIT THE WATER
There’s nothing like relaxing in L’Auberge’s lazy river, drink in hand, and oating along a course that’s long enough so that your drink disappears by the time the swim-up bar comes back into view. Imbibe, repeat. Both casinos feature heated pools for year-round enjoyment, plus hot tubs and poolside cafes — or swim-up bars in the case of L’Auberge. And Golden Nugget o ers re pits for those late-night sisterhood gatherings. Pool cabanas, daybeds and lounge chairs are available for rental at both properties.
RELAX
Come for the body treatments, massages, facials and nail and salon services, but stay for the amenities. Visitors can easily make a day of it at both resorts’ full-service spas by taking advantage of spa facilities that include saunas, whirlpools and tness centers. Try an 80-minute signature facial, followed by a hot stone massage with enhancements at L’Auberge. How about the signature body treatment at Golden Nugget that includes sugar scrub exfoliation on the back and shoulders, followed by an aromatherapy massage? Yes, please.
40 Years of Painting French Louisiana
A NEW BOOK ABOUT ARTIST FRANCIS PAVY
CHRONICLES HIS WORK FROM 1985-2024
“EVERY PAINTING IS A NOTE IN A SONG, or a rain drop in a hurricane that cannot be truly appreciated without taking Pavy’s oeuvre into account,” writes Benjamin Hickey, curator of exhibitions at the Hilliard Art Museum, in the opening to “Francis X. Pavy: Forty Years.” Released by UL Press in December 2024, the co ee table book is a piece of art in itself with the title embossed on a glossy white cover, Pavy’s patterns, colors and symbols filling in the letters of his name.
The book is divided into four decades starting with the mid-1980s, when bold, contrasting colors, thick outlines and unique patterns began to mark his work. Hickey also writes that “Pavy’s work cannot be understood a piece at a time — it must be everything at once, everything interconnected.”
An interview by folklorist Nick Spitzer follows Hickey’s introduction and details how he met Francis Pavy on the Cajun band scene in Lafay ette. Born in Lafayette on Mardi Gras day in 1954, Pavy lived the first two years of his life in France, causing Spitzer to speculate that he “paints in French.” Pavy always wanted to play music and majored in music at USL (now UL Lafayette), but didn’t feel like he fit in. A ceramics class with Tom Ladousa caused him to change his major to fine arts. This explains all of the Cajun accordion players, guitars, zydeco cowboys and dancing couples floating through Pavy’s work.
Viewers will see paintings that contain Pavy’s now iconic images: oil derricks, birds, raindrops, utility poles, eyes and sugarcane stalks. But there are surprises within the pages, too — a blackand-white period from 2015-2019, photorealistic portraits of musicians and the artist’s love of South Louisiana wildlife that has intensified throughout his prolific career.
Pavy’s work has continued to evolve, especially with the opening of Pavy Studio in downtown Lafayette. His symbols — from moon eyes to
ART EVENTS
See “Rodin: Toward Modernity” at the Hilliard Art Museum through July 5. hilliardmuseum.org
Try your hand at life drawing on Tuesdays from 6-8:30 p.m. at NUNU in Arnaudville. nunucollective.org
Cocodrie Collective in downtown Lafayette hosts Art Market in the 700 block of erson Street in conjunction with Second Saturday ArtWalk each month. cocodriecollective.com
ACADIANA UP CLOSE
BY
PHOTO
DAVID SIMPSON
Timeless Transformation
REVITALIZING A TRADITIONAL A. HAYS TOWN-INSPIRED HOME IN CROWLEY
RICE IS A WAY OF LIFE for many in Crowley, the self-proclaimed Rice Capital of America, including the owners of a home designed in the style of the late, local architect A. Hays Town. The brick-, wood- and hardy plank-clad home — built in 2008 — is the refuge and gathering place for the family that owns Supreme Rice. In 2021, the owners embarked upon a major remodel — working with the original builder, Ray Istre Construction, as well as Sara Vincent Designs for the interiors and Chad Cormier as the lead carpenter — culminating in early 2024 in a transformation of the home into a haven melding traditional and contemporary design with panache.
The design team, which included the original builder, Ray Istre Construction, Sara Vincent Designs for the interiors and Chad Cormier as the lead carpenter, enclosed the once-underutilized patio creating a formal dining room. Vincent chose natural materials for nishes throughout the home, such as marble and stone, antique bricks, antique wood and antique beams.
The interiors are designed with entertaining and family gatherings in mind and favor traditional furnishings infused with antiques that have special meaning to the owners, such as pieces the matriarch inherited from her mother.
“They use every room in their home,” says Vincent. “They’re gracious homeowners who love to entertain and host guests.”
The home is central to holidays, showers and family celebrations for three generations, with the matriarch reigning over the kitchen, which is open to the living and dining areas, all overlooking the pool. The design team enclosed the once-underutilized patio, creating a formal dining room, in addition to adding a new pool and pool house, and Vincent refreshed the interiors.
“Before the remodel it was very early 2000s traditional,” says Vincent. “It had a lot of golds and olive greens, terracotta tile. She likes original antiques and appreciates that old-world feel of a mix of little pops of new, with a majority of traditional and antiques with sentimental value.”
Leaning into the matriarch’s preferences, Vincent chose natural materials for finishes throughout the home, such as marble and stone, antique bricks, antique wood and antique beams. “She loves rich colors and appreciates a variation of movement and jewel tones in a lot of the areas,” says Vincent. “We chose herringbone patterns for some flooring, basket weave marble patterns, brick and wood mixed flooring and diamond patterns.”
The kitchen exudes French farmhouse style. In addition to the pale gray cabinets offsetting the brick floor, marble is used for the countertops, island and bar. The island provides a work surface, prep sink and additional cabinet space. A deep and spacious farmhouse sink completes the room.
Artwork and furnishings for the home were chosen with care, keeping a desire for originality and practicality in mind. “We chose art that meant things to the
homeowners,” says Vincent. “Some were family heirlooms, some new from antique stores that grabbed her attention.” Furniture selections include precious family heirlooms passed down from the matriarch’s mother. “Other pieces were chosen on our numerous shopping sprees while out antiquing, but they had to really speak to her and have purpose and functionality,” says Vincent, who also facilitated the creation of several custom pieces.
While the couple makes use of every area of the home, Vincent says they particularly love the outdoor kitchen and pool area. “Lots of grilling and pizzas are made out there,” says Vincent. “Enjoyed with a nice glass of wine in the evening.”
This vibrant home with its collected aesthetic and attention to design that reflects the way the family lives is a testament to the warmth, understated glamour and timeless appeal of traditional decor.
The French farmhouse-style kitchen is open to the living and dining areas and features pale gray custom cabinetry, a brickclad stove surround and copper cookery hanging on a bar attached to the marble backsplash.
MEET
BY CHERÉ COEN
TRAILBLAZERS SHARE THEIR CRAFT
LAURA MCKNIGHT
MELANIE WARNER SPENCER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROMERO + ROMERO
MAKERS the
AS A FRESHMAN working toward a journalism degree at McNeese State University in Lake Charles, Ti any Lowery was talked into taking an elective pottery class. “I was against it,” says Lowery, a Moss Bluff native, who at first told her friend no, citing that she didn’t want to get dirty, especially in the middle of the day. “But once we got into the class, I fell in love with it. I was proud to have my overalls caked in clay after [class].” Lowery enjoyed the class so much that she ultimately added a minor in ceramics to her journalism degree.
Over time, Lowery’s friends and family became customers, buying her nature-inspired work as she finished her coursework. This coincided with the COVID-19 lockdowns, prompting Lowery to share her work and processes on social media, where she gained an engaged following. A few months after graduation in October 2021, with few journalism opportunities available locally and the support of her network, Lowery started her business, The Nature’s Clay.
To bolster her knowledge, Lowery pursued an internship with Shelby Roberie at her studio, Jacques’ Pottery Shop in Welsh, where she learned the business and customer service side of ceramics. It didn’t take long for Lowery to realize how beneficial her journalism classes were for her budding ceramics business. “If you’re talking to the public, you need to connect with people and learn how to read di erent social cues,” says Lowery. Soon, requests for workshops began pouring in, so Lowery started holding pop-up work-
shops at the now-shuttered brick-and-mortar studio Olive & Indigo.
As Lowery continued to grow The Nature’s Clay, she realized it put a lot of pressure on her creativity to rely on it as a sole means of making a living. To ease that pressure, she accepted a position at the DeQuincy Library as an instructor in the newly launched Create and Make Space. “It’s going to be a space for people
to have access to di erent types of crafts like button and card making, jewelry and wire wrapping and scrapbooking,” says Lowery. The library provides the space, equipment, instruction and assistance, and Lowery gets to share her skills and creativity with the public.
“Connecting with people through art is powerful,” she says.
Lowery is now able to focus on creating beautiful and functional pieces, o ering workshops and producing her popular process videos on her YouTube channel without the financial pressures inhibiting her creativity. “Life’s a journey,” says Lowery. “And every piece of pottery I make is a testament to that adventure.”
—MWS
WHEN MIKE FRUGÉ inherited his family’s rice farm in Branch, the land needed a good bit of restoration. He and his brother, Mark, turned to crawfish farming during an opportune time and eventually opened Frugé Seafood, a wholesale seafood provider.
“That was financially successful, and I had time on my hands,” Mike Frugé said.
On the other hand, the rice side of the business wasn’t pulling its weight. When the price of rice fell from $27 to $17 one year, it was time to reconsider the crop.
“Someone asked me if I could make vodka out of the stu ,” Frugé said. “It was kind of a joke.”
He discovered he could. Frugé opened a distillery on the family farm, using its rice to produce a vodka under the label of JT Meleck, a nod to his great-great Uncle John Meleck who started the farm in 1896. The first vodka made from 100% of rice grown on the farm came out in 2018.
But a thought niggled in Frugé’s mind: Could they make a whiskey out of rice? He searched for other rice whiskeys and found none and assumed that it couldn’t be done.
“I had a hunch they might be wrong,” he explained. “I think people never tried it because whiskey is made out of corn.”
A JT Meleck rice whiskey, aged for years in American oak barrels, was released in 2022.
“It’s like the best bourbon you’ve ever had but it’s sweeter,” he explained of the whiskey’s taste. “It soaks up more in the barrel. You get complex flavors that you’re really not expecting.”
Frugé’s daughter, Mia Albaugh, promotes what Frugé calls a new spirits category — rice whiskey — on social media and through marketing, creating a “micro-phenomenon.”
“We’ve arguably created a world-class product and a new category,” he boasted. “People have noticed and now we’re trying to bring it to more markets.”
MIKE FRUGÉ
The distillery also produces a single barrel cask-strength rice whiskey aged for four to five years, a small batch rice whiskey at 118 proof and a Founder’s Edition whiskey, which is aged in 30-gallon barrels for four years.
What started as a 20-acre farm now supports a crawfish business and a “farm to bottle” distillery.
“My family’s been here for four generations. Now five or six with grandkids,” he said. “The whole business was to make a long-term e ort to build a legacy that future generations benefit from.”
JT Meleck spirits may be purchased throughout Louisiana and in some parts of Texas. Frugé hopes to expand its reach into other states. — CC
THE POLISH ART of wycinanki, or folk art papercutting, traditionally captures images of daily life. This worked perfectly as an art form for Sam Wróbel, a Chicago native with Polish ancestry who moved to Acadiana and relished in its unique cultures and traditions.
It all began when in childhood, a dear family friend skilled in the art asked if he could apprentice with her. Doris Sikorsky had received a folk art grant from the Illinois Arts Council and taught Wróbel the two major styles of wycinanki — one from the Kurpie region, which typically involves a design cut from a single sheet of paper, and the other from the Łowicz region which incorporates bright-colored paper in layers. Both art forms began centuries ago by peasants creating art of their daily lives.
“She [Sikorsky] encouraged me to depict what was in my life,” Wróbel said. “One thing about this area, it’s so colorful.”
Much of Wróbel’s work includes South Louisiana scenes: dancing to Cajun and zydeco music, crawfish fishing, Mardi Gras courirs and alligators, among others. He captures many elements of nature, such as pelicans, magnolias and wetlands.
“I love being in this area,” he said. “It really resonated with me for someone who learned wycinanki.”
Wróbel created handmade signs for Trader Joe’s for years but at age 28 decided to see the rest of the United States. He was drawn to South Louisiana for its music and culture and immersed himself in the Cajun Mardi Gras and visits to landmarks such as Floyd’s in Ville Platte and Fred’s in Mamou. After years of visits, he moved here in 2017.
Wróbel is also a musician, so naturally Acadiana fit that bill as well. He performs bass in two bands.
He creates wycinanki cards, prints and commission pieces with only paper and scissors.
“It’s historically done with sheep shears actually,” Wróbel explained. “I do have sheep shears but it’s hard on my hands.”
His work, under Sparrow Papercraft (Wróbel is Polish for sparrow), is available on his website at sparrowpapercraft.com. He also sells items at special events and teaches classes at the Acadiana Center for the Arts. He hopes to have more items in stores soon.
Most of his work these days is commission, he said, and includes everything from album covers and logos to pet portraits. Folks can view his work and learn of his upcoming events on Wróbel’s Instagram page. — CC
AT AGE 15 , Matthew Latiolais took a job that would spark a lifelong passion. “I started working with Robert Hebert, who was from Parks, Louisiana and lived along the Bayou Teche,” says Latiolais, who was born and raised in Lafayette. “Robert taught me how to build aluminum boats, wrought iron fences and several different projects, passing down valuable craftsmanship and attention to detail. Growing up in such a unique setting, with the Bayou Teche as his backdrop, Robert’s work was influenced by the natural environment, and he instilled in me a deep respect for Louisiana and the materials I worked with.” Eventually, this experience of learning to work with his hands would lead Latiolais to wood -
working, specifically using reclaimed cypress, under the auspice of Cajun Salvage Company.
But first, Latiolais made a living in the oil and gas industry in logging and evaluation and well placement. This career took Latiolais to far-flung locales in Wyoming, Utah, Colorado and the North Slope of Alaska, as well as all around the Gulf of Mexico. But no place could compete with the rich Cajun culture, food, fests and outdoors life at his fingertips at home, where Latiolais started his woodworking business in his driveway. “It wasn’t an overnight success story,” says Latiolais. “Most of the things I learn were selftaught. Building and growing the business has taken over 10 years. There were many nights where I asked myself, ‘Why do I put myself through this?’ But overall its been a wonderful career choice.”
Latiolais, who was accepted into the Louisiana Crafts Guild in 2015, and in 2024, was accepted into the Louisiana Crafts Guild of Master Craftsmen, says he built his business on the premises of on hands-on craftsmanship, sustainability, functionality and maintaining a connection to the past. “By respecting the materials and their history, I ensure each design completes its environment and tells a unique story,” says Latiolais, who also strives to consistently build new skills into his craft and had a strong work ethic instilled in him by his mother, whom he also cites as his biggest inspiration.
Latiolais has worked on projects ranging from kitchen cabinets and islands to a desk from a 1956 Buick special trunk lid that was on display in the Louisiana Crafts Guild in New Orleans for a time before finding a home with a buyer. “I tend to take on projects that push me way outside of my comfort zone and skill range because that’s where growth happens,” says Latiolais. “Every time I stretch myself, I learn something new, whether it’s mastering a new technique, solving a problem or gaining a deeper understanding of my craft. I enjoy the challenge, and it drives me to be resourceful and creative.” —MWS
BROWSE THE SOCIAL MEDIA or Bespoke Hat Co in Lake Charles, and you will find a range of people — various ages, expressions, styles. Yet they share something in common — a confident grin and distinctive headwear.
Dan’elle and Jack Clark, the hatmaking couple who own Bespoke, say they delight in guiding visitors to their shop in finding and finessing just the right fedora, flat cap, beret and more to reflect their individual stories and styles.
Dan’elle was initially a regular customer at Bespoke Hat Co, established in 2017 in downtown Lake Charles. Then, the Clarks bought Bespoke in February 2024, expanding the shop to fit their vision and becoming a beloved spot for choosing and creating hats — and memories.
Since taking over, the Clarks have grown the hat inventory from 20 to 50 styles to roughly 300, including headwear by designers like Stetson, Gigi Pip and Bailey, among others. The store also carries apparel and accessories by designers like STS Ranchwear.
“We’re constantly getting new and di erent hats,” Jack said.
Customers are also drawn to the Clarks’ unique custom-made hats, crafted from start to finish using materials ranging from felt and feathers to beaver and nutria fur.
The couple also reshapes and revitalizes hats, giving new life to family heirlooms and creating stylish keepsakes and fashion pieces.
DAN’ELLE AND JACK CLARK
One woman had her father’s badly worn Stetson cowboy hat reshaped into a fashion fedora. A bride requested a hat with a band fashioned from her mother’s wedding dress.
An especially memorable hat was “the roadkill hat,” commemorating a trip to Colorado with souvenirs collected along the way — porcupine quills and bird feathers.
Bespoke can laser messages and drawings onto hats, adding another unique touch. A customer had “you are my sunshine” lasered onto a hat in her late father’s handwriting. A grandfather fighting cancer received a hat decorated with encouragement from his grandchildren in their handwriting.
Along with hat styles, the Clarks have expanded the shop’s offerings to include popular after-hours hat bar parties, which give groups the opportunity to enjoy a fun night of customizing hats.
Dan’elle, who began learning hatmaking from a self-taught relative, started to host hat bar parties years ago to support a friend battling breast cancer. Groups of friends would gather at a home and spend hours together creating hats.
The previous owner had the hat bar set up, but the Clarks expanded its use from individual customers to after-hours hat-making parties. The shop holds a cozy and inviting ambience, with brick walls and leather candles, that adds to the memorable events.
“Some people leave crying,” Dan’elle said. “They thank us all the time for the experience.”
Almost every hat sold gets the hat bar treatment, a process in which the Clarks guide the buyer through customizing their new piece. People often spend hours choosing just the right colors, textures and flair. The Clarks help them shape the hat to a flattering fit.
Both making and customizing hats “makes it more intimate and more fitting with our name, Bespoke,” said Jack.
The right hat can work wonders, said Dan’elle, who wears a hat nearly every day and said, “It gives you a little boost of confidence.” —LM
A FISHING TECHNIQUE THAT IS AN ANCIENT, NEAR-BIBLICAL ENDEAVOR
H P NET FISHING
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN RABALAIS
AAt Butte La Rose, the Atchafalaya River makes a sharp turn east-northeast in yet another bid to lure the Mississippi into its path. The river here runs black. It’s slender, smooth as paper. On a warm morning in late December, thick fog swirls around the dock while Rusty Kimble starts his boat engine.
“That’s the Atchafalaya,” he says. In the predawn quiet, it sounds almost like a question, but that can’t be right. Rusty knows this river. His surprise, even after 25 years of fishing here, marks him as a native of the river 75 miles to the north, in Simmesport, where he began fishing commercially — on his own and in his own boat — at age 14, in 1983. There, the river churns muddy, its temperament more Hyde than Jekyll. The Old River Control Structure, a feat of engineering that prevents the Atchafalaya and Mississippi from merging and keeps south Louisiana inhabitable, looms 20 miles to the northeast, causing the river to fluctuate more there than elsewhere. That led Rusty to move his work south. Throughout the fall, winter and spring, he drives from Simmesport, setting out from Butte La Rose to raise 42 hoop nets. The round trip leads him through 50 miles in one sliver of an area larger than the Florida Everglades.
“People in Louisiana don’t know what’s out here,” Kimble says of the Atchafalaya Basin. For some, the name alone conjures mystery, an aura at the back of the Louisiana psyche. For others, it’s there on the map, a vast yet unknowable expanse that begins near Simmesport and stretches southward 150 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. It’s the largest floodplain swamp in North America, a breadth of bottomland hardwoods, swamps, bayous and backwater lakes
and Henderson-
from fiberglass. A er weaving the net through the hoop, Hayes dips the entire construction into a vat of tar. Freshly tarred nets, some stretching to 30 feet, o en hang
like bats in his back yard. He and Kimble work constantly to mend and clean their nets so they “fish better,” as Hayes says.
that covers nearly one million acres. You could hide the entire state of Rhode Island inside, and few would think to look. Through this region cuts the Atchafalaya River, North America’s fifth largest by discharge. Combine the Atchafalaya and Mississippi river basins, and you would have, after the Amazon and Congo, the third largest river basin in the world.
Rusty rattles off those and other facts before pausing to note the obvious. To truly see North America’s largest wetland and river swamp, you need a boat. Getting that opportunity means to fall back through time to a place where men such as Rusty Kimble fish in a way that summons scripture. “Put out into the deep, and let down your nets for a
catch,” Christ advises Simon in the Gospel of Luke. Once each week, Kimble sets out to do exactly that. He and his cousin Carson Kimble raise nets much as fishermen have done for millennia: by hand. The grueling labor ahead explains why Carson steps into the boat and immediately lies down. On these trips, the Kimbles haul in an average of 4,000 lbs. of fish. The boat’s two wells will hold another 1,000 lbs. Today, because the river has been low, Rusty expects to bring in 3,000 lbs. “If you have great expectations, you’re easily let down,” he says. “The secret of life for being happy is to be grateful for every day on this side of the water.” At that, Carson shuts his eyes, and Rusty backs away from the dock. “All right,” he says. “There’s no guarantee we’ll make it back.”
Rusty Kimble
based commercial fisherman Jeremy Hayes make their hoop nets at home. Kimble constructs his hoops from PVC Pipe, Hayes
“Water flowing in from the north creates cool and optimal conditions on the Atchafalaya,” Rusty Kimble says. He typically sets nets in 8-27 feet of water. On
occasion, he moves them from one spot to another, noting that fish always want to “bed up” around structures near banks. “They like the drop o ,” he says. Hoop net
fishermen perpetually raise nets, haul their load onto the boat, then release the nets back into the current.
Around the first bend, two herons — one blue, the other white — hopscotch across treetops. Rusty shakes his head. “Cajuns are superstitious,” he says. “They believe what their grandpa told them.”
In his youth, fishing with his uncle, Rusty heard tales about how heron behavior foreshadowed the workday. To see them perched in trees means there will be few fish. To see them along the riverbank means the fishing gods are on your side.
For ten minutes, Rusty navigates through a veil of fog. Trial and error have taught him where to set his nets, which he began making when he was 9 years old. He weaves a net through nine hoops, each six feet in diameter. Once he sets them in the water, his full hoop nets stretch to 30 feet. Hedging his bets, and maybe because of another superstition, he always places two side by side. “To be a good fisherman, you don’t need to know where
the fish are,” he says, now edging along the eastern bank. “You need to know where they’re going to be.” He then accordions his hands, explaining how the current pushes on the nets like a sail on a boat. “The fish get out of the current to rest. You got to look at it like the wind. You would get out of the wind. That’s how they end up in the nets.”
As the boat slows, Carson rises and positions himself on the starboard side. From a stump, he grabs the black line he tied the week before, and within seconds, he’s pulling, easy at first, now harder, leaning backwards. After 15 seconds, the hoop net surfaces like a submarine. Rusty moves beside him. When two fishermen stand side by side, a net boat lays low to the water. “You’re not lifting the fish into the boat,” Rusty says. “You’re rolling the nets over the side.” The flare, a raised, angled section at the bow, deflects waves. This proves particularly handy with large hauls, something at the forefront of any fisherman’s imagination. At the front of Rusty’s: bu alo fish. He makes more money selling his hauls for crawfish bait rather than for human consumption. “They say Louisiana is a farm-based community. It’s crawfish-based. They got to have that bait.”
From one set of nets, Rusty steers toward another. After several stops, he realizes he’s set today’s expectations too low. Fish jump inside each net like dollar bills in a manic money blowing booth, and he and Carson raise the hoops high for the fish to funnel onto the deck. The work pauses only when Rusty needs to mend a net, typically after an alligator gar has thrashed around in attempted escape. Aboard the rocking boat, his netting needle weaves — dances is more precise — 20 seconds here, 30 there. “Makes a surgeon jealous with envy,” he says. And then it’s on to the next nets.
For four hours, without break, he and Carson work like figures from the Old Testament. They toss fish inside the two wells, only stopping when Rusty needs to mend another net. “Work done by a master technician at your local shop,” he says. Putting the netting needle away, he gazes upon the river as though pleasantly surprised to find himself here on a Monday morning. The fog has lifted. There’s no other boat in sight.
“Thoreau went to Walden Pond,” he says. “I hunt. I fish. I do what I like. Look around. Ain’t nobody else out here with us today. I’m gonna do this ’til I die. Just like ‘Junior’ Edwards. Junior’s a real swamp dog. He’s old school.”
“I ain’t no Rusty Kimble,” says William “Junior” Edwards the next morning on Little Tensas Bayou. “I don’t fool with superstitions. I fish.” Fog unfurls like stretched cotton as William steers north to raise the first of his 42 hoop nets, each placed on its own. “My family always fished that way,” he says. “It’s more e cient.”
Like his old friend Rusty Kimble, he raises nets once a week and sells to a market that turns his fish into crawfish bait. “You don’t have an argument,” he says, noting the higher market value. This wasn’t always the case. He and Rusty recall a golden age of hoop net fishing in Louisiana, but that was more than 30 years ago. Since then, the cost of everything about their work — from the trucks that haul their boats to the gas that propels them — has risen while the market price for their product has stagnated. Rusty believes that in 20 years, this work in Louisiana will vanish. Sometimes, he cuts that prediction in half.
The speed at which William pilots his boat — and the fact that it takes nearly twice as long to raise 42 nets when they aren’t hung in pairs — means that he’s less prone to make predictions. Throughout the morning, his brother Wesley and Te Boy Domingue raise net after net, grabbing the hoops and lifting them high. Bu alo, along with an occasional catfish, tumble onto the deck. Their movements are e cient, methodical, but William wants them to work faster.
“I’m gonna get you a box of Wheaties,” he says after they pause, grimacing. And once again, the net rises grunt by grunt, a single haul that William estimates at 300 lbs. After four hours, the boat’s two wells — each capable of holding 2,500 lbs. — threaten to overflow. But William still wants more. “It’s hard to find good help,” he says, and Wesley shrugs his shoulders in what seems like a routine that began half a century before.
At the next stop, the net isn’t where they hung it last week. Wesley drags a hook across the riverbed, searching for the line. After two passes, he pulls it up, and in unison all three identify the culprit: “Beaver.” William sits with his netting needle to mend the damage, at last giving Wesley and Te Boy time to rest.
Rusty Kimble and William Edwards predict that this form of work is quickly vanishing in Louisiana. In Simmesport in the 1980s, Kimble listened to stories of lifelong hoop
net fishermen. “We don’t have anyone to talk to anymore,” they told him. “No one understands the work.” Now, he knows few full-time hoop net fishermen. Jeremy Hayes
believes Kimble’s predications that the industry will die in 10 years are dire but close. “It will, unless we can teach our kids to work,” he says.
Then they speed to the next nets, another raised, another lowered, and inside of each, fish flutter and thrash. Five hours into the trip, water cascades over Junior.
“Cold water down the front of my shirt,” he says. “I had to wake you up,” says Wesley. And once again, they move on, the waterways in the Basin like a maze inside this ruler-flat empire nearly the size of the Grand Canyon. It thrives in plain sight, unknown, unknowable to many, a life-
blood for others, and on this day, nothing about this way of work seems precarious.
From the dock, Junior drives 10 miles south to sell the haul in Bayou Pigeon. The scales tally 4,946 lbs. The day before, Rusty Kimble’s haul weighed in at 3,647 lbs. of bu alo and 187 lbs. of catfish. In another week, they’ll both be back on the water, and the Basin will be here, this vast watery world where they pursue their ancient work.
TOP
SPECIALTIES
LAWYERS
OUR AREA’S MOST RESPECTED ATTORNEYS, AS NOMINATED BY THEIR PEERS WITHIN THE LEGAL PROFESSION
LAWYERS
THE ATTORNEYS IN THIS FEATURE were selected by Professional Research Services (PRS), which conducted an online peer-review survey of area attorneys in Acadiana, Louisiana. Attorneys were asked to nominate fellow lawyers they deemed the best in their field of law practice. Many votes were cast honoring excellence in all categories of law. The featured attorneys were screened and selected through the verification of licensing and review of any infractions through applicable boards, agencies and rating services. For additional information, visit prscom.com. Acadiana Profile was not involved in the selection process.
ADMINISTRATIVE/ REGULATORY LAW
Leslie J. Schiff Schiff Manning, LLP
ADMIRALTY & MARITIME LAW
Bennett Boyd
Anderson
Anderson Blanda & Saltzman
Lafayette
Blake R. David
Broussard, David & Moroux
Lafayette
John H. Hughes Allen & Gooch
Lafayette
Robert M. Kallam Kean Miller LLP
Lafayette
Brian J. Lindsey
Kean Miller LLP
Lafayette
Alan J. Meche Allen & Gooch
Lafayette
S. Brian Perry Allen & Gooch Lafayette
Ross F. Roubion
Domengeaux, Wright, Roy & Edwards, LLC
Lafayette
Randall K. Theunissen Allen & Gooch Lafayette
ALTERNATE DISPUTE RESOLUTION
Robert J. David Perry Dampf Dispute Solutions
Richard J. Hymel Perry Dampf Dispute Solutions
Thomas R. Juneau
Perry Dampf Dispute Solutions
Andrew D. McGlathery Stockwell Sievert Law Firm
Charles
BANKING AND FINANCE LAW
Steven G. "Buzz"
Durio
Durio, McGoffin, Stagg & Guidry
Lafayette
Steven T. Ramos
Andrus, Boudreaux, Landry & Coussan, APLC
Lafayette
BANKRUPTCY AND CREDITOR
DEBTOR RIGHTS/ INSOLVENCY AND REORGANIZATION LAW
H. Kent Aguillard
Aguillard Law
Eunice
Armistead Long
Gordon Arata
Lafayette
Scott J. Scofield
Scofield Law Firm
LLC
Lake Charles
COMMERCIAL LITIGATION
William "Will" Abel Abel Law Firm
Thibodaux
James H. Gibson
Gibson Law Partners, LLC
Lafayette
Charles H. Heck
Heck Law Firm, LLP
Monroe
Christopher B. Ortte
Person & Ortte Law
Lafayette
Christopher H. Riviere
Christopher H. Riviere, PLC
Thibodaux
Casey Thibodeaux Jones Walker LLP
Lafayette
P. Scott Wolleson
Breithaupt, DuBos, & Wolleson, LLC
Monroe
COMMERCIAL TRANSACTIONS/LLS LAW
Kyle M. Bacon
Jones Walker LLP
Lafayette
Julie S. Chauvin
Liskow & Lewis
Lafayette --
Christopher J. Peyton Kean Miller LLP
Lafayette --
CONSTRUCTION LAW
Emile Joseph Allen & Gooch
Lafayette
--
Robert Anthony
Robertson Allen & Gooch
Lafayette
CORPORATE LAW
Harold M. Block Block and Bouterie Thibodaux
--
Joseph "Joe" C. Giglio Liskow & Lewis
Lafayette
--
Ryan M. Goudelocke Goudelocke Law
Lafayette
--
Steven C. Lanza Onebane Law Firm
Lafayette
-- CRIMINAL DEFENSE NON WHITE COLLAR
J. Kevin Stockstill Stockstill Defense Firm
Lafayette
--
Joseph M.W. Burke Sanchez Burke, LLC Lake Charles
--
Donald D. Cleveland
Donald D. Cleveland, APLC
Lafayette
-- B. Deuce
Domengeaux Domengeaux Law
Lafayette --
Shane Keith Hinch Hinch Firm Lake Charles --
Thomas L. Lorenzi
Lorenzi & Barnatt, L.L.C.
Lake Charles --
Jordan T. Precht Precht Law Firm
Lafayette --
Jason W. Robideaux Robideaux & Cleveland, LLP
Lafayette --
Barry J. Sallinger Sallinger-Melancon Defense Attorneys
Lafayette --
Walter M. Sanchez
Sanchez Burke, LLC
Lake Charles --
J. Michael Veron Veron Bice, LLC
Lake Charles --
Cody J. Vidrine Loftin Law Group
Lake Charles --
CRIMINAL DEFENSE WHITE COLLAR
Jennifer E. Jones Sanchez Burke, LLC Lake Charles --
Rémy A.M. Jardell Domengeaux, Wright, Roy & Edwards, LLC
Lafayette --
Patrick A. Johnson Parker & Landry LLC
Lafayette
Corey M. Meaux Parker & Landry LLC
Lafayette
Michael E. Parker Parker & Landry LLC
Lafayette
Rex D. Townsley The Townsley Law Firm
Lake Charles
Eric J. Waltner Allen & Gooch
Lafayette
Jonathan L. Woods
Randazzo Giglio & Bailey LLC
Lafayette
Culinary Art
CHEF LOGAN BOUDREAUX OF CINCLARE BAR & TABLE IN THIBODAUX ELEVATES SOUTHERN FARE WITH SOPHISTICATION, INNOVATION AND CREATIVITY
MUCH LIKE BEGINNING MUSICIANS learn by imitating the music and style of musical masters of the craft, chefs learn at the knees of family members and under the tutelage of expert cooks, chefs and culinary school instructors — or sometimes from all of the above. The similarities between music and cooking don’t end there, to the tune that often, people who work in the back of the house at a restaurant also play music.
MELANIE
Use this butter to cook with, in place of oil, as a base for seafood soups and stews.
LOGAN BOUDREAUX
HOMETOWN: Born in Raceland, Louisiana; raised in Venezuela and Lockport, Louisiana • MOST MEANINGFUL ITEM IN KITCHEN: My collection of knives is invaluable to me, but I cannot do without our selection of local ingredients that make the most of our dishes. • FAV MUSIC TO COOK BY: It depends on the mood of the cooking. If I’m in a rush, I usually put on some hard rock or funk. If we’re in a relaxed mood and can cook at our own pace, it’s not uncommon to hear R&B or yacht rock coming from the kitchen.
“During my time cooking, I have always been fascinated with the number of musicians that eventually find themselves in kitchens,” says Chef Logan Boudreaux, executive chef at the Thibodaux fine dining hub Cinclare Bar & Table and adjunct teacher at the nearby Chef John Folse Culinary Institute. Boudreaux would know, because he pursued music before choosing to go to culinary school and continues to play guitar in his spare time. “It’s a common transition, surprisingly.”
Throughout high school in Lockport, Boudreaux played with bands, often taking gigs in bars (with permission slips from his parents) and says he dreamed of studying guitar theory at Berkeley or MIT. “My interests in life have always revolved around the arts,” says Boudreaux. “Whether it be music or painting, cooking or even literature, I knew I wanted to do something with my hands in a creative interpretation. This is why I decided to become a chef.”
Boudreaux’s desire for a creative career and passion for precision and excellence led him to attend CJFCI and work everywhere from country club kitchens and mom-andpop joints on Bayou Lafourche to Luke in New Orleans and at Institut Lyfe (formerly Institut Paul Bocuse) in Lyon, France training with Michelin-starred chefs.
In 2018, after two years spent helping open Cinclare and working there as a cook while finishing his degree at CJFCI, Boudreaux was o ered the position of executive chef. “As a kitchen, we like to keep it simple, let the ingredients shine for themselves, not only honoring the ingredient itself but [also] honoring the farmers and cultivators that see the same beauty in their product,” says Boudreaux. “On any given night, there is an invisible connectivity between my plates and guests that come in to dine … I am the worst at small talk, but love having conversations of depth surrounding food, art and music. It’s my way to connect with people.”
SPREADABLE
SHRIMP BOIL BUTTER
“This is a very simple and delicious compound butter we use at the restaurant,” says Boudreaux. “Whether slathered onto fresh toasted sourdough bread or placed on a piece of broiled fish, the uses for the butter are endless and personal to the home cook.”
2-3 dashes of Worcestershire sauce zest of 2 lemons juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon thyme leaves, picked
1 tablespoon parsley, minced
1 Remove butter from refrigerator and set aside to bring to room temperature.
2 Place dried shrimp in spice grinder or blender and blend into powder. Combine shrimp powder with butter and remaining ingredients and mix to combine. If using a Cajun seasoning heavy in salt, season the butter with kosher salt until preferable to your taste.
3 Store in an airtight container and place in refrigerator for up to two weeks. Use the butter on anything that sounds appealing: broiled sh, chargrilled oysters, sliced bread.
Tropical Tequila Tipple
SPOONBILL WATERING
HOLE’S SU CASA RECIPE INSPIRES SPRING CELEBRATIONS IN LAFAYETTE
IT’S TIME TO RAISE YOUR GLASS to spring with a new tequila cocktail from Spoonbill Watering Hole’s bar manager, Tanner Dimmick. A revered mixologist, Dimmick is also known as one of the celebrated Gravy Boys, partnered with Vestal’s chef Sullivan Zant and Spoonbill’s Jacab Gibson of Blackpot Festival Cook-o fame.
“Our Su Casa cocktail hits all the high notes,” says Dimmick. “Sweet, salty and bitter from Aperol, it’s tropical and very refreshing.”
Mi Casa Tequila Blanco forms the base of Su Casa, joined by watermelon shrub, fresh pineapple and lime juices. “It’s their flagship, presented last year by Lot001 Brands,” says Dimmick. Mi Casa Tequilas also made their Acadiana debut during Vestal’s first tequila tasting dinner, hosted by Chef Zant.
Imbibers gather around Spoonbill’s industrial-chic bar for Dimmick’s spring sippers with a “party forward” vibe. Flanked by Chef Jeremy Conner’s open kitchen, Spoonbill doesn’t look like a typical restaurant, housed in a circa 1939 Conoco building with original neon gas station signs. Modernized as a retro diner in 2018 and nominated for a James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant Design in 2020, Spoonbill’s breezy patio is a magnet for spring festivalgoers.
To make watermelon shrub, add 4 cups watermelon cubes, ½ cup simple syrup, 2.5 oz. apple cider vinegar and 1 oz. lime juice to a blender and blend on low speed.
SHAKE 2 OZ. COCONUT FAT-WASHED MI CASA BLANCO TEQUILA, 2 OZ. WATERMELON SHRUB, 1 OZ. PINEAPPLE JUICE, 1 OZ. APEROL, 4 OZ. LIME JUICE AND A PINCH OF SALT AND POUR INTO IN AN ICE-FILLED PINEAPPLE GLASS OR A FUN TIKI MUG. GARNISH WITH A TIKI UMBRELLA AND A CRAZY STRAW.
BALANCING FLAVOR AT MAMA
RETA’S KITCHEN
THERE IS A GROWING LIST OF FOODIES who exit Interstate 10 on Belden Street in Lake Charles daily. ¶ Why? ¶ They are soul food pilgrims who travel near and far to get good food and love at Mama Reta’s. ¶ Visit Mama Reta’s Facebook or Instagram page and you will see pictures and short video clips of the soul food lovers who are invigorated and initiated into the soul-inspired flavors Mama Reta bestows upon them.
Fried chicken, pork steak, meatloaf, fried catfish, cornbread dressing, macaroni and cheese, etc. are the offerings that Mama Reta prepares daily.
What goes on in Mama Reta’s kitchen among her staff can best be described as planned and intentional cooking that leads to food induced spiritual awakenings.
Flavor balance is practiced daily.
“My food is not bland and not too spicy. People come here and eat and feel like they are eating at their grandmother’s or mother’s house,” Mama Reta Durgan said.
Truth be told, food lovers who trek to Mama Reta’s will be selecting food o a menu plastered on the outside wall of building that is special to Mama Reta.
The restaurant, which is easy to spot on both the eastbound or westbound lanes
of Interstate 10 in Lake Charles, is Mama Reta’s childhood home.
She converted the building into a drivethru restaurant after the hurricanes that struck the Lake City in 2020.
“I own it. My parents, eight siblings, my children, grandchildren and now greatgrandchild have all been behind those walls, where our food is prepared now,” she said.
Fried chicken is one of the eatery’s calling cards. There are some in Lake Charles who will argue Mama Reta’s fried chicken may be the best in the city.
Her husband Lee Durgan is the o cial fry station guy.
“He has been frying chicken since he was 10 years old in Mamou,” Mama Reta said. “My husband has steps that he takes to make sure the chicken is moist and the fried batter is perfect.”
Plate lunches are served every day.
Mama Reta said her baked chicken is one of her favorites. “I love baking it to where there is that golden brown on the skin. It is delicious.”
Mama Reta wants those who have not eaten at her restaurant to know she believes in cooking with passion and lots of love.
“When you eat here, I want you to know the food is good because we love you,” she said.
TRY THIS
1
Mama Reta places fresh-cut okra and seasonings in one of her favorite pots. After some cooking time, the result is heavenly smooth and tasty.
2
No matter what the season, Mama Reta’s fans will order her chicken and sausage gumbo. The woman knows how to season food! Her patrons have been known to lap their empty bowls, hoping for more gumbo essence (Note: Order a side of Mama Reta’s smothered okra and pour into the gumbo ... LAWD have MERCY IT’S DIVINE).
3
SMOTHERED OKRA CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO SMOTHERED PORK STEAK
Tuesday is smothered pork day at Mama Reta’s. Rice and gravy along with a roll or cornbread and the choice of a side complete this excellent plate lunch.
Faite dans la Louisiane
UNE DISTINCTION QUI MÉRITE
UNE APPELLATION
J’ÉTAIS APRÈS ÉCOUTER la radio l'autre jour, un vieux programme des années soixante présenté par défunt Dudley LeBlanc: “Les Nouvelles de la Semaine.” Parmi une certaine génération de Louisianais, “Cousin Dud,” sénateur d’État et inventionneur — ainsi que commisvoyageur — du tonique du temps de la Prohibition “Hadacol,” et de son héritier d’après-guerre, “Kary-On,” était une voix de confiance sus l’air, qui parlait souvent de sa détermination pour aider “le pauvre malheureux” dans tout ses entreprises de politique et d’a aires; et chaque dimanche, tant qu’il tirait sus midi, beaucoup des familles français se rassemblait autour de la radio pour attendre les nouvelles que Cousin Dud fournissait dans le langage naturel de leur culture louisianaise: la langue française.
Quand tu passes du temps avec le vieux monde — ou, comme dans ce cas-ici, avec les paroles qu’ils nous ont peut-être laissé — tu t’aperçois bien vite de la terrible quantité de changements qu’a venu durant le dernier siècle, et avec chaque tit coup de veille cez un voisin âgé, chaque page de gazette feuilleté à la bibliothèque, t’es tout le temps sujet à apprendre quelque chose de nouveau. Cette fois-ici, Cousin Dud m’a montré une nouvelle signification pour un mot que moi, vous, et tout de nousautres connaît déjà — “créole.” La définition exacte de ce mot, comme beaucoup d’appellations, sera toujours un peu di érent selon qui tu demandes, mais pour le Sénateur, éné en 1894, on dirait
c’était joliment simple: “un Créole” il dit, c’est “un homme du sud de la Louisiane.” Et malgré la franche embrouille que l’usage de ce mot est devenu aujourd'hui, c’était réellement ça — quelque chose ou quelqu’un d'origine louisianaise — que c’était la signification originale du mot “créole.”
Pour exemple, défunt Révérend Monseigneur Jules Daigle, auteur d’un dictionnaire cadien qu’est toujours sus les tablettes de beaucoup de ménages louisianais aujourd’hui, écrit clairement dans l’introduction de cette œuvre que l’adjectif créole “simply means indigenous or local.” Bien attendu, un coup que tu prends à appeler du monde “indigenous” ou “local,” les a aires peut venir compliqué, et l'application du mot “créole” à les personnes est — allons dire — beaucoup moins général asteur (et puis une bataille qu’on va pas proche s’aventurer de rejoindre ici), mais pour décrire les affaires ou les produits qui parvient de la Louisiane, y’a toujours
une abondance de preuves pour cette signification originale épaillé partout dedans notre langage. Prenez, pour exemple, le terme général qu’on use pour décrire nos variétés d'héritage locales de tomates, d'oignons et d’oranges; ou prenez-donc notre nom pour les races historiques de bêtes, de chevaux, de mulets et de moutons d’origine louisianaise — pour faire la distinction importante entre notres variétés natives et les ceux d’ailleurs, on a toujours employé l’appellation “créole.” Je vous aconseille d’aller passer du temps avec votre vieux monde à vous. Peut-être ça va se rappeler d’autres, comme les vieilles chaises créoles, ou la bière créole, faite avec du riz et de l’ananas — mais faisez attention: “comme je sors de vous dire” (pour emprêter un dicton à défunt Cousin Dud), quand ça vient à nommer du monde “créole,” le tracas peut prendre. Heureusement, donc, une tomate est pas aussi chocatif que ça.