OUR GUIDE TO CORNWALL
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Editorial Rick Stein, Felix Rowe, Dan Warden, Summer Brooks Design Chloe Searle, Steve Mathews Production Editor Hannah Tapping Publisher Andrew Forster, Red Flag Media levenmediagroup.co.uk Rick Stein Group. Riverside, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8BY 01841 532700 | firstname.lastname@example.org | rickstein.com Registered in Cardiff. No. 3031916. Copyright © 2017 Rick Stein Group. All rights reserved. The Rick Stein Group provides the information contained in this magazine to stimulate thought and discussion. We work hard to ensure that the information presented is accurate at the time of publishing, but you should take independent advice before acting on any information presented. No part of this magazine can be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the Rick Stein Group. All material is acted upon at the reader’s risk and, whilst every care is taken, the Rick Stein Group and the publisher will not accept liability for loss or damage. Image credits (Left to right, top to bottom).P2: Dreamstime/Helen Hotson. P5: Camel Trail TB; David Griffen Photography; The Seafood Restaurant; Rick Stein Group; Matt Jessop. P6: Matt Jessop (x2); Olaf Tausch. P7: Chris J Dixon; Chetwode Ram Associates. P8: The Seafood Restaurant; Cracking Crab; Dwyatt 101. P9: Petar Milošević; Nilfanion; Anoldent; Pexels. P10: Visit Cornwall; Adam Gibbard; Felix Rowe. P11: Adam Gibbard. P12: Felix Rowe; Heligan; Adam Gibbard. P13: Adam Gibbard; Matt Jessop; Steve Mathews. P14: Carla Regler. P15: Adam Gibbard; Carla Regler; Greg Blundell. P16-17: All images Rick Stein Group. P18: Matt Jessop; Tremenheere Stables. P19: Rick Stein Group; Barry Bateman; Rick Stein Group; Sean Gee. P20: St Kew Inn; St Tudy Inn; St Tudy Inn; Rick Stein Group. P21: Massey; Gunards Head, Pandora Inn. P22: Adam Gibbard; Nilfanion; Dune Dreams Photography. P23: Hidden Hut; Chris Downer; Ashley Lewis; Carla Regler. P24: Adam Gibbard; Paul Watts. P25: Steve Mathews; Nilfanion; Carla Regler. P26: Sean Hughes; Dune Dreams Photography. P27: Nilfanion; Nathan Stazicker; Adam Gibbard. All Matt Jessop, Adam Gibbard, Ashley Lewis and Sean Hughes images courtesy of Visit Cornwall. All images are © Copyright. Any copying or reproduction is strictly prohibited without express permission of the relevant rightsholders.
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Welcome As someone who spends far too much time in hotel rooms all over the place, I am aware of the inevitable array of highly coloured brochures that greet you as you pass the side table walking into your room for the ﬁrst time on the way to look at the view. How, I thought, can we make this one different? Ask our staff what they really liked about Cornwall and to say it in a way that made you really want to go and see everything. So let’s start with me, what do I really like about Cornwall? I like the fact that on a sunny day, with not a cloud in the sky, there is nowhere else on earth that I would rather be. Maybe it’s because actually we don’t have that many sunny days or maybe it’s the soft quality of the light that gives the white houses and green patches of trees and the distant cornﬁelds with the blue estuary in the foreground the look of a watercolour. But, speciﬁcally, I love swimming in the sea, Cornish gardens, pasties, clotted cream with scones and strawberry jam, summer mackerel and, above all, the Cornish accent.
Cover Image courtesy of Kurt Jackson. The Jackson Foundation, North Row, St Just TR19 7LB www.jacksonfoundationgallery.com | www.kurtjackson.com | @KurtJacksonArt | Facebook/KurtJacksonArt
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Port Isaac Port Quin
Lundy Bay Polzeath
Trevose Head Rock
Padstow Harlyn Constantine Bay
TOP TIP Look out for these symbols throughout our guide. Some beaches have seasonal dog bans, so our symbol shows those where dogs are welcome year round. Postcodes provided are the closest to the location or the nearest car park, wherever possible. Weâ€™ve also included rough distances and journey times to locations, based on the quickest route by car on a typical day.
Polzeath Port Isaac Rock Wadebridge
Lostwithiel St Austell Charlestown Fowey Mevagissey
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Contents Maps 4 24 hours in Padstow 6 48 hours in Padstow 8 7 days in Cornwall 10 Stein family favourites 16 Family fun and all weather activities 18 Traditional pubs 20 Beautiful views 22 Wonderful walks 24 Best beaches 26
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24 hours in Padstow
Our home Padstow is, we think, a very pretty ﬁshing port sheltered a couple of miles up the Camel Estuary. In the narrow streets around the harbour there are tiny old pubs, famous restaurants, cafés and quirky shops and art galleries. It’s a haven for those who like simply mooching around an old historic town.You have to do the walk from Padstow towards Stepper Point, it’s a must.
1. Ride the Camel Trail
This beautiful walk/cycle track was once the railway that lead all the way to London. It skirts the Camel Estuary to Wadebridge then meanders through the leafy Camel Valley to Bodmin. Your children will love it as well of course as you. You could plan just to go to Wadebridge or maybe as far as the Camel Valley vineyard, on the way to Bodmin and there’s a couple of places to stop for tea and sandwiches too. Postcode: PL28 8BL
2. Shopping in Padstow You love a bit of shopping on holiday. Let’s face it there’re a lot of gift shops in Padstow but on holiday it’s what you want. There are also far too many pasty shops and pubs but that’s what it’s all about. But
For something a little different, try our smoked haddock pasties from the Patisserie. “Breaks away from tradition, but so tasty,” says Lara from Rick Stein’s Café
you’ll also find really good clothes, homewares, bread and pastries and a lovely bookshop too.
3. Explore the old town Here’s a few suggested strolls: Hill Street through The Plantation to St Petroc’s Church; the whole length of Fentonluna Lane; from the Post Office right up Duke Street to Prideaux Place (pictured); from The Shipwrights Inn to the war memorial. 6
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4. Visit the beach Just 20 minutes on foot from the harbour lies St George’s Cove. Walk up to the monument, find a spot on the beach and then go for a paddle. “Gloriously sandy and sheltered, it’s perfect for topping up your tan and enjoying an undisturbed swim,” says Elizabeth, who looks after guests at the cookery school. Looking out to Rock and the infamous Doom Bar, savour the coast in all its glory.
5. Night time
Some of the things we like: obviously dinner at any of our restaurants, or Paul Ainsworth at No. 6; pizzas at Rojano’s; cocktails at Ruby’s on Broad Street; a beer in The London Inn or The Golden Lion; when sunny and warm, drinks on the terrace at The Seafood Restaurant; fish and chips, of
course, at our place on the quayside, and maybe before that a few prawns or oysters in Stein’s Fisheries & Seafood Bar from March to October.
Stein’s Fisheries & Seafood Bar
Ferry to Rock
Stein’s Fish & Chips
Constantine Bay The Seafood
Stein's Patisserie Prospect House Middle Street
Stein's Gift Shop
Rick Stein's Cafe
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Prideaux Place Padstow
Rick Stein's Cookery School
St Edmunds House
St Petroc's Bistro & Hotel Ruby's Bar
SqMu ill are
d Roa tion Sta
National Lobster Hatchery
St. Edm unds L an
St George’s Cove
Porthcothan The Lawn
St Issey 7
48 hours in Padstow 1. Take the ferry to Rock
and visit the grave of poet laureate Sir John
“My favourite thing on a day off is to just jump on
Betjeman, nestled in the sand dunes, a place
the ferry,” says Sara, from our hotels and cookery
Continue your way along the coast path up to Polzeath,
school. “I love that there’re no timetables, it goes
a haven for surfers with an abundance of places to
every 20 minutes or when it’s full. Just remember
grab cake and a coffee. The west-facing bay is perfect
a rainproof jacket in case the heavens open half
for the whole family with ﬂat sand ideal for beach
games, with secluded coves and rock pools where the children can catch green shore crabs and goby fish.
Have a bite to eat at the Blue Tomato café or sit on the terrace at St Enodoc and enjoy the views
Enjoy a cocktail at Surfside on the beach or, if you’re
across Porthilly Bay looking back to Padstow.
with the children, visit the Cracking Crab – they’ll love the dressing up box.
Walk along the coast path to St Enodoc Church,
TOP TIP Remember the water taxi, which runs March to November. Once the ferry stops, use the water taxi to get you back to Padstow, which runs until about midnight, though check the last crossing time before you depart.
TOP TIP On the Polzeath headland, look out for the plaque commemorating Laurence Binyon who wrote the famous war memorial poem ‘For the Fallen’ in 1914, whilst sitting on these very cliffs.
“My favourite walk is to start at Polzeath beach and follow the coast path to The Rumps, before cutting back round through the farm at Pentire to come full circle back to the beach. The initial climb is quite steep, so if you prefer, park at the farm instead, and do the walk in reverse.” Kate, guest services
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2. Gone fishing
When the weather’s good, nothing beats a fishing trip with the experts to try and catch your own. Staying in the estuary, you can find mackerel in abundance or, if you’ve got your sea legs, venture further out for pollock, gurnard, bass or black bream.
3. Take a sealife safari From Padstow, you could see a pod of dolphins or a basking shark or two and plenty of seals. These are some of the amazing creatures you might spot off our shores, not forgetting, in springtime and early summer, the puffins, razorbills and guillemots that nest around The Rumps and The Mouls (or Puffin Island as it’s more commonly known). 9
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7 days in Cornwall
Twiddler is a Padstow taxi driver. He’s more or less retired now but he used to drive our guests to such places as Lanhydrock, Cardinham Woods, and Tintagel. He knew a fair bit about King Arthur, Camelot and Tintagel and held court with many Americans. He once said to us, “What I don’t know I make up.” Who would’ve cared, it’s in the same vein as a Dublin taxi driver who told me that he used to say that the Gaelic sign pointing to the airport meant ‘ﬁeld of big birds’. If you haven’t got a car, we recommend Padstow Taxis (Pete) who will take you anywhere, Heathrow if you so wish. If you’re spending a week in Padstow you’ll certainly want to visit some of these.
1. Watergate Bay and Bedruthan Watergate is a vast sandy beach with great surf. Nearby
“The best Cornish cream teas around are to be had at the National Trust café at Bedruthan Steps.” Julie, the Deli
is Bedruthan Steps, which descend down to a secluded beach. These used to be a nightmare of slipperiness and vertigo but thankfully the National Trust has got to grips with them and made it quite safe. They also get you
brownie points for your Fitbit on the way back up. Watergate Bay: 25 mins, 11.4 mi | Bedruthan: 22 mins, 7.3 mi
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TOP TIP Tintagel is very steep with lots of steps, so be prepared with a good pair of boots and a head for heights. The views are worth it.
2. Lanhydrock and Cardinham Woods Lanhydrock is a magnificent country house just outside of Bodmin, with stunning gardens and a wooded estate. “I love to park up, follow the signs into the woods with Django, my dog, and explore for hours,” says Elizabeth, from our cookery school. “It’s dog paradise. One of my favourite views is as the house emerges from behind the trees; it’s truly beautiful.” It’s also the perfect place to explore on two wheels. Hire bikes on site, follow the path to Cardinham woods, and clear away the cobwebs of everyday life. Amy, from the cookery school, says: “There’s a variety of woodland walks and cycle trails to enjoy, with streams to explore along the way. Afterwards, take a picnic and some food to barbeque in the sunshine or, on a cold day, snuggle up in the Woods Café with a hot chocolate.” Postcode: PL30 5AD 36 mins, 25.6 mi
“Follow the coast path up round Lobber Point to Pine Haven. It’s a steep climb to the top but worth it and you might see a seal.” Sarah, marketing
3. Port Isaac and Tintagel With its links to the mythical King Arthur, Tintagel is a place to immerse yourself in the history and mystery that surrounds it. The castle, set high on the cliff, is home to enigmatic ruins and splendid views. Wrap up warm, as it can get quite windy on the headland, then complete the tour with a walk down to Merlin’s Cave on the beach below. Our one-time taxi driver Twiddler was taking four people on a tour of Tintagel and pointed to what seemed to be the outline of a garden. “This is where King Arthur’s gardeners grew potatoes,” he said. One of the guests showed some surprise. “Surely potatoes came to England in Elizabethan times with Sir Walter Raleigh?” “Yes,” said Twid, “but these were Cornish potatoes.” A short drive along the coast brings you to Port Isaac, with its winding streets and whitewashed fisherman’s cottages; a gorgeous fishing village, home to TV’s Doc Martin. Port Isaac: 36 mins, 15.9 mi | Tintagel: 47 mins, 24.3 mi
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7 days in Cornwall 4. Tour the south east First to Lostwithiel (40 minutes from Padstow) with its narrow streets, antiques shops and beautiful setting on the Fowey river, perhaps Restormel Castle, enjoy the rumour that Prince Charles and Camilla have a secret house somewhere in the area (well Twiddler told us). Next head to Charlestown
The Lost Gardens of Heligan
While in St Austell Bay, explore a fascinating garden at Heligan. Totally overgrown, it was discovered by Sir Tim Smit of Eden Project fame. What makes it so
harbour for an alfresco lunch or bite to eat. Follow the coast round to Mevagissey, another pretty fishing port. Leave the car here in good weather and take the ferry upriver, where Daphne du Maurier
special is that while much of it has been restored to
once lived, to Fowey or alternatively stop off for
its Victorian grandeur, complete with greenhouses
a walk round the town before you make your way
heated by compost, much of it still remains lost in
back to Padstow.
the jungle. Postcode: PL26 6EN
48 mins, 25.6 mi
If arriving in Fowey by car, park at the top of town, then take the shuttle bus from the top of the hill down into town, or walk down and take the bus back up.
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“I really enjoy taking in the tree-ﬁlled shoreline from the water, getting a view of the wooded areas lining the water.” Libby, reservations
5. Explore the River Fal and Roseland Peninsula The Carrick Roads is the wide expanse of water where the River Fal opens out into the sea. It’s a special place for sailing, fishing, birdwatching and watching the oyster boats at work under sail. Drive down one side to Flushing and Mylor, or over to the Roseland Peninsula. Alternatively, start your adventure in Falmouth, first at Gyllyngvase beach (pictured above) then round to Pendennis Castle, which the children will love. Boat trips from Prince Albert Pier or Customs House Quay will take you upriver to several beautiful waterside villages, coves and beaches or you can head across the river to take in the pretty village of St Just in Roseland, and, of course, St Mawes, completed by drinks on the terrace at Idle Rocks. Finish the day back in Falmouth for a taste of our own fish and chips at Rick Stein’s Fish on Discovery Quay. Falmouth: 1 hour 7 mins, 36 mi
Take a boat trip from Falmouth to Trelissick Gardens for a cream tea, landing on the Trelissick
pontoon above the beach. There’s no better
If you have time, take a boat trip from Falmouth to
spot for a family picnic, and the on-site shop is
Trelissick Gardens for a cream tea, landing on the
well stocked with Cornish produce.
pontoon above the beach. There’s no better spot
Postcode: TR3 6QL for a waterside
50 mins, 29.9 mi on-site shop P family picnic, and the
is well stocked with Cornish produce. If visiting by car, take the historic King Harry ferry to explore the iconic Roseland Peninsula. It’ll save miles of driving! Postcode: TR3 6QL
TOP TIP If in the car, simply drive aboard the historic King Harry chain ferry from Trelissick to explore the Roseland, it’ll save nearly 30 miles of driving.
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TOP TIP Remember to check the tide tables in advance if planning to walk the causeway. A boat will take you when the tide is in. The Mount is closed on a Saturday, so plan your visit carefully.
7 days in Cornwall
6. St Ives to St Michael’s Mount, via Sennen Cove Start the day in the ever-bustling St Ives. It’s about three times the size of Padstow but like Padstow is one of the few safe ﬁshing harbours on the north Cornish coast and is also full of pubs, gift shops, restaurants, cafés and art galleries. It feels a bit like Padstow on steroids, but its great glory is that it’s right on the ocean and therefore has a special light much sought after by artists, amongst who was Barbara Hepworth whose pottery is well worth a visit because, although she died in 1975, her workshop looks like she just left and the garden is ﬁlled with her glorious sculptures. Two beach restaurants well worth considering are the Porthminster Beach Café and the Porthmeor Beach Café. The drive from St Ives to St Just and then on to Sennen Cove is arguably one of the most beautiful in the British Isles, partly because of the towering cliffs dotted with old mines but also because of the tiny prehistoric ﬁelds divided by unimaginably old stone walls. You will probably want to call in to the Tinners Arms at Zennor, the village where DH Lawrence and his German wife Frieda lived during the First World War. Visit Sennen Cove’s famous surﬁng beach, then head up to Marazion and St Michael’s Mount. Walk across the ancient causeway at low tide – the panoramic views from the summit are unrivalled. Stop for supper at The Fox’s Revenge near Summercourt, just off the A30, on your way back to Padstow.
St Ives: 1 hour 10 mins, 47 mi
St Michael’s Mount: 1 hour 10 mins, 48 mi Sennen Cove: 1 hour 29 mins, 57 mi
“The Mount is a great place to take the kids. There’s plenty to see if you don’t want to climb all the way up to the house, with a lovely grassy area to enjoy a family picnic.” Sophie, from The Seafood Restaurant
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The theatre itself has a decent café but can get very busy so take a bite to eat and bottle of wine to enjoy during the performance. “Remember to take some warm layers, even on a summer’s day it can turn chilly in the evening.” Charlotte, guest services
7. Porthcurno to Mousehole Porthcurno means ‘Port of Cornwall’ in the Cornish language. Start at the beach, which still has the original communications cables laid in the 19th century, running all the way to India, beneath it. Visit the Telegraph Museum and its underground tunnels, then carry on to the Minack Theatre for spectacular views out to sea. Here you can pick up the coast path and walk along the headland looking back to Porthcurno beach and the coastline. From here, drive north to Penberth, then onto Lamorna Cove, both picture perfect villages, and then on to Mousehole to end the afternoon in one of Cornwall’s loveliest harbours. Porthcurno: 1 hour 33 mins, 57 mi Mousehole: 1 hour 24 mins, 52 mi
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The Stein family favourites Rick’s
favourite... Beach “Booby’s Bay. I learnt to swim there and it was the beach we used when we lived on Trevose Head.” Walk “Bodmin Moor, along the De Lank River. When the
Spot for sunrise “In the restaurant’s early days on a Saturday night we often used to drink after work in June ‘til about 4.30am; we’d open the front door, a little bleary, and see the sun rising over at Rock and think ‘time to go home’!” Thing to see and do “I love swimming all through the year. I tend to combine a swim with a good walk; it keeps me very much in touch with the beautiful coastline.” Thing to do on a day oﬀ “I like to trim the roses in my small but secret garden.”
children were much younger, Edward and I were
Thing everyone should try at least once
convinced that we’d found the lair for the Beast of
“Drive out to a headland like one of the Pentire
Bodmin. There’s a stretch that reminds me of Keats’s
Headlands, with a view of a bay, like Crantock or Booby’s,
poem ‘La belle dame sans merci’.”
Constantine or Harlyn, and just watch the water.
Jill’s favourite... Beach “Diggory’s Beach with
Fistral beach from the balcony of our restaurant – it’s lovely to see the surfers waiting to catch a wave as the sun sets in the background.”
the beautiful views out
Thing to see and do
to sea and because it’s
“I love the Minack Theatre. Sitting in the amazing
tucked away from the
amphitheatre built into the cliff on a sunny day, it’s
the most incredible view.”
Thing to do on a day oﬀ
“Cycle the Camel Trail, a nice, safe route for
Porthcothan. Some of
families, particularly from Padstow to Wadebridge
the South West Coast
which looks out across the estuary.”
Path can be quite challenging, but this part gives you plenty of time to take in the beautiful views I love.” Spot for sunset
Thing everyone should try at least once “Visit the Eden Project; I never tire of going there, as it evolves and changes each year.”
“My garden as it looks out to Trevone Bay. I love 16
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Jack’s favourite... Beach “Newtrain. It’s a rocky beach next to Trevone with loads of rock pools and a very heavy reef break at low tide.” Walk “Zennor to Gurnard’s Head, ending at the pub. I love Cornwall’s far west – it’s where moorland meets the sea.” Thing to do on a day oﬀ “Walk the dog to check the surf, go for a surf then go to the pub.” Thing everyone should try at least once “Get in the sea, but be careful and do it somewhere where there are lifeguards. It’s cold but very invigorating.”
Charlie’s favourite... Beach “Constantine is
Ed’s favourite... Beach
the sand dunes there are no shops or restaurants
“Bedruthan Steps. It
to spoil the view.”
has so many hidden
coves and caves and it’s great for beachcombing. There are lots of steps down the cliff, so it’s not for the faint hearted, but it’s so beautiful and quiet once you get there.” Thing to see and do “I love to go to the local vintage rallies in June or July in St Merryn and Padstow; it takes you back to what it would’ve been like in ‘old Cornwall’.” Thing to do on a day oﬀ “Mackerel ﬁshing on the Emma Kate II out of Padstow.”
beautiful. Because of
“Trevone beach to Padstow via Stepper Point. It’s not the shortest walk but it’s stunning, taking in the rugged coast and the majestic mouth of the estuary, around to the relative calmness of Tregirls beach.” Spot for sunset “Over Trevose Head with a barbeque and an ice cold glass of Provence Rosé” Thing to do on a day oﬀ “Surﬁng at high tide Constantine. With so many great surf schools in the area, there’s nothing stopping you.” Thing everyone should try at least once “Dangle a rod off the side of a boat to catch mackerel.” 17
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Cornish family fun Cornwall was simply made for children. Keep them entertained with unique adventures, creating memories to last a lifetime.
1. Crabbing and rockpooling A rite of passage for all youngsters, watch the glee on their faces as they catch their first crab. Alison,
from our fish and chip shop in Padstow, says: “All you need is a weighted line, bait (we use sprats), and a bucket filled with seawater to show them off before putting them back.” Find all sorts of rockpool critters at Fistral, Treyarnon and Constantine when the tide is right out.
2. Visit Trevathan Farm
4. Horse riding on the beach
At Trevathan Farm near Port Isaac, complete with its
What could be more invigorating than a horse ride on
100 sheep and herd of south Devon cattle, the kids
the beach? Try Reen Manor Stables near Perranporth,
will love meeting (and feeding) everything from goats
with its three-mile stretch of sand. Higher
to wallabies. Enjoy a tractor tour of the farm, let off
Tremenheere on Mount’s Bay has beautiful views
steam in the outside play area, stop for a Cornish
over the Mount. Newton Livery Equestrian near
cream tea, and stock up on local produce. The real
Mullion is perfect for exploring The Lizard. Closer to
highlight, however, is fruit picking, just don’t forget
Padstow, visit Tina’s Stables in St Merryn and enjoy
to put a few pennies in the honesty box for those
beach rides for experienced riders and farm rides,
strawberries that didn’t quite make it into the punnet.
perfect for the less experienced.
Postcode: PL29 3TT
33 mins, 15.4 mi
3. Screech Owl Sanctuary Just off the A30, it’s not only the owls that will have the kids hooting for joy at Screech Owl Sanctuary. The alpacas, pygmy goats, emus, meerkats and miniature Shetland ponies are bound to keep everyone suitably entertained for hours. Postcode: TR9 6HP
25 mins, 13 mi
5. Healey’s Cider Farm and Callestick Sample the cider or freshly squeezed Cornish juices as well as homemade jams and chutneys, tour behind the scenes, say hello to the animals and do a tractor tour. Just down the road is Callestick Farm, where you can see their famous ice cream being made, then sample for yourself. Postcode: TR4 9LW
40 mins, 25 mi
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All weather We’d love to tell you that the sun is forever shining in Cornwall but, in reality, we do have the odd shower. Don’t let that stop you having a great time, as wet days can be just as rewarding.
1. Board games and storm-watching at Fistral Sometimes, when the weather throws everything it has at you, the best thing to do is embrace it. We love those occasional stormy days, when the sky turns purple before the heavens open – you just
3. National Maritime Museum Cornwall
A perfect family day out in Falmouth, with craft activities and always lots of seasonal exhibits to explore. Scale the lookout tower to enjoy some of the best views across Falmouth harbour and beyond. Postcode: TR11 3QY
1 hour 7 mins, 36.5 mi
the sweep of the ocean in front of you, with a classic
4. Indoor Active and Clip ‘n’ Climb
family board game (Cornish Monopoly, perhaps) and
Easily accessed on the A30 at Cornwall Services,
some crisp fish and chips, then watch as an Atlantic
Indoor Active is suitable for all children. Both kids
storm rolls in.
(aged four and upwards) and grown-ups will love ‘Clip
need to be somewhere warm and cosy to enjoy it in comfort. So head to our restaurant at Fistral, enjoying
Postcode: TR7 1HY
40 mins, 20 mi
‘n’ Climb’, a fun and safe climbing experience, while the young ones can tear around the soft play area.
2. Bodmin & Wenford Railway There’s nothing like travelling through some pastoral Cornish countryside by the power of steam alone.
Postcode: PL26 8UF
28 mins, 16 mi
Step back in time on the Bodmin & Wenford Railway. The railway also operates themed events throughout the year. While you’re in Bodmin, the children will love to experience life under lock and key at Bodmin Jail – another interesting day out when the sun is not playing ball. Postcode: PL31 1AQ
36 mins, 16 mi
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Traditional pubs From fresh dairy produce to seafood, pasties to cream teas, Cornwall’s food and drink industry is positively booming. Home to some of the best restaurants and pubs in the UK, it’s no wonder Cornish produce is in demand across the whole country.
1. St Kew Inn A charming traditional stone-wall pub just past Wadebridge, St Kew Inn serves everything you know and love about pub grub. Enjoy a pint of Tribute in the beer garden or warm yourself by the open fire. “I love the dressed Padstow crab, sitting out in the garden,” says Liis, at The Seafood Restaurant. “On a summer’s day, it’s perfect.” Landlady Sarah is practically family – not only has she played a key role at The Seafood Restaurant, she also used to babysit our own Ed, Jack and Charlie. Postcode: PL30 3HB
27 mins, 12.5 mi
2. St Tudy Inn
The St Tudy Inn, a charming Camel Valley village pub near Bodmin Moor, is the ideal place to savour a bottle of Padstow Pride. “It’s my favourite pub to eat in,” says Michelle from the cookery school, “the food is elegant, simple and fresh.” Local girl, owner and head chef Emily Scott, a regular at The Seafood Restaurant, serves local seasonal dishes, including monkfish and bass. Rustic dining at its best, from the furnishings to the food, this friendly inn is a treat for the taste buds. Postcode: PL30 3NN
30 mins, 14.2 mi
3. The Cornish Arms Well, we couldn’t suggest some of our favourite pubs without giving a mention of our own. The Cornish Arms in St Merryn features simple classics inspired by Rick’s cooking. Trelawny is the pint of choice here, so sit back with a glass and soak up the wonderful atmosphere inside or in the beer garden. Dogs are welcome too, with treats at the bar, so you needn’t leave your trusty companion at home. Postcode: PL28 8ND
9 mins, 2.5 mi
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4. The Gurnard’s Head You can’t miss this pub near Zennor as the name is written in large white letters on the roof. It looks over the wild Atlantic coastline near St Ives. Renowned for its cooking, particularly Sunday roasts, the wine list is far more interesting than a normal pub. It’s furnished and decorated in a lovely, relaxed Cornish style. Postcode: TR26 3DE
1 hour 20 mins, 51 mi
Our pick of restaurants and cafés you may not have heard of, offering great food and relaxed dining. SAM’S & SAM’S ON THE BEACH, Fowey & Polkerris A stylish, rebellious, and utterly unique gem. STRONG ADOLFO’S, Wadebridge Fine coffee, fresh food and subcultural happenings. HIDDEN HUT, Roseland Peninsula Big flavours and breathtaking views.
5. Pandora Inn Facing out onto Restronguet Creek, The Pandora near Mylor is a 13th century, thatched inn. Take a seat on the pontoon to dine quite literally on the water, perhaps preceded by a refreshing G&T courtesy of Cornwall’s artisan distillery, Tarquin’s Gin. Food served all day. Postcode: TR11 5ST
OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS
PORTHMINSTER BEACH CAFÉ, St Ives Informal, post-surf favourites on the beach. CASTAWAYS, Mylor Yacht Harbour Italian inspired dishes in a beautiful waterside spot. Note: booking is essential for some restaurants
59 mins, 33.5 mi
“Walk around the creek at Mylor, looking at the boats, around to Flushing, then drive down to Pandora for lunch, and watch as the yachts come in.” Nick, the cookery school
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“Oh the opal and the sapphire of that wandering western sea” ‘Beeny Cliff’, by Thomas Hardy
Cornwall’s greatest asset is its spectacular coastline. Being a narrow peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic, you’re never too far away from a beach, cliffs, estuary or cove which will gladden your heart with beauty.
2. Port Quin Roughly halfway between Polzeath and Port Isaac on the coast path, Port Quin is a tiny cove, managed by the National Trust. Once a pilchard fishing community, it now gives the sense of being forgotten by the hands of time. This really is a place to escape the everyday.
1. Constantine Bay
Postcode: PL29 3SU
35 mins, 15 mi
Just outside Padstow, Constantine Bay is a wide sandy the dunes and watch the sun sink over the skyline. “I
3. Fistral Beach
love going to Treyarnon Bay, near Constantine,” says
Newquay’s famous surfing beach serves up some
Zoe, from The Seafood Restaurant, “it’s really open,
of the best and most consistent waves in the
with lots of cliffside benches looking out to sea. It’s
country, the panoramic views bring visitors back
very peaceful; such a lovely, hidden place to watch the
year on year. Follow a surf by relaxing on the
world go by.” Benjamin, who handles recruitment, says:
terrace at Rick Stein Fistral with an ice cold beer
“I love walking there in the evenings about an hour
and warming Goan curry, taking in, in our opinion,
beach welcoming dogs all year round. Sit amongst
before sunset; you get the most amazing views.” Postcode: PL28 8JJ
14 mins, 4.1 mi
one of Cornwall’s most beautiful views. Postcode: TR7 1HY
40 mins, 20 mi
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4. Porthcurnick Beach On the Roseland Peninsula, tucked away below high cliffs lies Porthcurnick Beach, an isolated and sandy cove just a stone’s throw from Portscatho.
Take a pair of binoculars with you and keep your eyes peeled on the water. You might spot a pod of dolphins, a seal or two, and maybe a basking shark.
End the evening at The Hidden Hut, a small café just
off the coast path that hosts outdoor dining events throughout the summer. “Bring a chilled bottle with you and sit back to enjoy a beautiful sunset,” says
Sarah from Rick Stein Fistral. Postcode: TR2 5EW
56 mins, 30 mi
5. Pendennis Point This is a spectacular vantage point near Pendennis Castle in Falmouth, looking over the end of the Carrick Roads where the snaking riverways of the Falmouth Bay, from St Anthony Lighthouse to the east all the way down to the Lizard in the west. From here, walk down to the Gylly Beach Café for fresh seafood, often accompanied by live music, watching ships pass in the distance.
6. Lizard Point The most southerly point in Britain, Lizard Point is
Fal estuary meet the deep blue sea. Gaze across
Postcode: TR11 4NQ
1 hour 10 mins, 37.5 mi
famous for its dramatic clifftop walks and the crystal clear waters of Kynance Cove. There are ample places to park and enjoy a pasty whilst watching the sun or rain. Away from any large towns, the brightness of the stars in the night sky on the Lizard is truly incredible – the feeling here is one of being at the edge of the world.
Postcode: TR12 7NQ
1 hour 30 mins, 53 mi
7. Godrevy At the far east end of St Ives Bay lies Godrevy, a popular haunt for both swimmers and surfers (a great beach for beginners). Park at the National Trust car park, where a café serves things like Cornish sardines on toast, bacon sandwiches and good cakes. Scale the grassy dunes to arrive at a golden stretch of sand,
and look across to the lighthouse on Godrevy Island, the scene of Virginia Woolf’s most famous novel. Postcode: TR27 5ED
1 hour 6 mins, 40 mi
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2. Park Head to Bedruthan For a circular clifftop walk, just a short drive on the
Whether you’re a wild rambler or just love a stroll to clear your head, Cornwall’s varied landscape is best explored by foot. Amy, who takes care of our private dining, loves to walk in spring, “when the bluebells start to bloom and all the natural Cornish hedgerows come out.” But for Lizzie, in our marketing team, it has to be November or January. “In winter, it’s cold and crisp, so wrap up warm and enjoy the quietness.”
1. Treyarnon to Trevose Head
coast road from Padstow past Porthcothan beach, park up at Park Head and set off along the footpath to discover incredible views of the towering sea stacks of Bedruthan Steps. In summer the cliffs are covered in wild ﬂowers adding a splash of colour to the landscape. Finish the day with a drink overlooking the beach at Watergate Bay. Postcode: PL27 7UU | Length: 5 miles | Difficulty: Moderate
20 mins, 6.3 mi
Fae, from housekeeping, loves this circular walk from Treyarnon up via Trevose Head lighthouse, which takes you through Constantine and Booby’s Bay continuing on to Mother Ivey’s Bay and Harlyn. From the beach at Harlyn, follow the lanes and footpath back to Constantine to complete the loop. “Even though Constantine is popular, once you’ve walked right along the beach it’s never busy beyond. It’s so lovely being up high by the lighthouse looking across the water.” Trevose Head is now owned by the National Trust, of which Rick is a proud patron. Postcode: PL28 8JR | Length: 6.1 Miles | Difficulty: Easy 16 mins, 4.5 mi
3. Rough Tor to Brown Willy Bodmin Moor is the best place to wander lonely as a cloud in Cornwall. We love this walk that begins at Poldue Downs, and takes in the Holy Well, before climbing mighty Rough Tor, and crossing the ridge of Showery Tor, with views reaching back to the north coast. Drop down the valley before ascending Brown Willy, the highest point in Cornwall. Here, the view is pretty memorable, so bring a packed lunch from our
TOP TIP There’s very limited parking at Constantine Beach, so drive a little further round to Treyarnon where there is ample space, but remember change to buy a parking ticket.
deli, sit on a granite rock and eat, maybe noticing the extraordinary Stone Age ruins around you. Postcode: PL32 9QG | Length: 5.2 miles | Difficulty: Moderate
49 mins, 20 mi
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4. Polkerris to Menabilly About an hour’s drive south of Padstow, park up near Polkerris beach, stopping for fresh coffee at the café adjoining the rustic looking but enormous fun watersports centre. Take the coast path south, past the daymark tower, to soak up the views at Gribbin Head, before following round to Polridmouth Cove for a paddle. Continue north to Coombe and Lankelly, before cutting back for well-earned ice creams on the beach at Polkerris, or a pint at the Rashleigh Arms if you prefer.
Postcode: PL24 2TL | Length: 5 miles | Difficulty: Moderate 51 mins, 26 mi
5. Loe Bar to Porthleven Venturing further west, it’s well worth going to the fishing village of Porthleven. If you park at Penrose
Hill car park, there’s a lovely 3-hour circular walk around Loe Pool, the largest natural freshwater lake in Cornwall, separated from the sea by a shingle
bank. The bar itself is particularly treacherous for swimmers, so avoid taking a dip. Instead, perhaps just enjoy the beauty of the lake, before heading into Porthleven itself to walk round the pretty bustling harbour, followed maybe by some local lemon sole or John Dory at our restaurant, simply called Rick Stein. Postcode: TR13 0RB | Length: 6.25 Miles | Difficulty: Easy 1 hour 20 mins, 45 mi
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2. Porth Joke Beach “My favourite beach is Porth Joke, also known as Polly Joke, near Crantock,” says Vivienne, Rick’s PA. “It’s
Cornwall has over 300 beaches, from long sandy bays to secluded coves, with romantic names like Prussia and Lamorna. Too many to list, so we’ve selected just a few of our personal favourites here.
1. St Merryn’s Seven Bays The Seven Bays are a collection of sandy beaches, all within walking distance of each other near the village of St Merryn, just three miles from Padstow. The bays start with Portcothan (postcode below), nearest to Newquay, then Treyarnon, Constantine and Booby’s, round Trevose Head to Mother Ivey’s, Harlyn finishing in Trevone Bay, closest to Padstow. All are dog friendly year round except for Trevone Bay which has a seasonal ban from Easter to the beginning of October. Postcode: PL28 8LW
Porthcothan: 16 mins, 5 mi
tucked away and really quiet. Park at Crantock, about a mile away, then head down to the beach. On your way back, stroll across Cubert Common, which is full of poppies in May and June.” Postcode: TR8 5SE
40 mins, 20.5 mi
3. Tregardock Parking is limited here, but on the plus side, it means you’re more likely to have the beach all to yourselves. Walk down the valley, accessible only at low tide. With a bit of a climb down from the rocks, this gives you beautiful views across to Port Isaac. Walk to the northern end of the beach to see the waterfall cascading down, but keep an eye out to ensure you don’t get cut off. Postcode: PL33 9ED
38 mins, 18.3 mi
On the steep path a bramble leaf. Stands motionless and wet with dew The grass bends down, the bracken’s brown The grey-green gorse alone is new From ‘Tregardock’ by Sir John Betjeman
WILD SWIMMING “Unlike Lord Byron I baulked at swimming the Hellespont in Turkey, but I love to ﬁnd a hidden Cornish cove and swim here. I ﬁnd it strange and exhilarating.” Rick Stein
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Many of Cornwall’s most beautiful and secluded beaches are only accessible at low tide. So, wherever you may be, always check the tide times in advance to ensure you don’t get cut off.
2 4 5
4. Vault Beach Unknown to most, Vault Beach is a hidden gem found along from the bigger Gorran Haven beach, near Mevagissey. Park at Gorran Haven, then stroll down on foot. Tucked away from the busier parts of the area, Vault beach offers unspoilt views and quiet places to sit and watch the sea. Wild and unserved by facilities, this beach is perfect for collecting some driftwood for a fire and camping out under the stars. Postcode: PL26 6JS
57 mins, 29 mi
5. Praa Sands Just off the main road from Helston to Penzance, Praa Sands (pronounced ‘Pray’) is a large sandy beach. Close to the car park, with plenty of facilities nearby, it’s ideal for families. You’ll be surprised at how white the sand is. The swell further out makes it a popular spot for surfers, but it’s calm enough at the shore to splash around in. The Sandbar is a lovely open bar, perfect for dinner looking out to sea. Postcode: TR20 9TQ
OUR FAVOURITE ICE CREAMS After all, a trip to the beach just isn’t complete without one! TRELEAVENS We love Treleavens so much that we sell it in the deli! Tony, who ensures we never run out of pasties, opts for rum and raisin, “but I also love the rocky road, lemon meringue pie and pink vodka sorbet”. JELBERTS ICES This Newlyn parlour is a real one-off. The simple, but divine vanilla ice cream is the only flavour on the menu, and takes you straight back to childhood. CALLESTICK Callestick, sold across Cornwall, has made awardwinning ice creams for over 25 years, with over 26 fab flavours. The honeycomb is to die for. ROSKILLY’S Roskilly’s, near Coverack on The Lizard, has truly perfected the art. Amy says: “My favourite has to be the Ginger Fairing – simply delicious.”
1 hour 16 mins, 51 mi
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OUR GUIDE TO CORNWALL
01841 532 700 rickstein.com
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