Trend Forecast AW16/17

Movement Project Tre n d F o rc a s tin g A g en c y

TREND FORCAST AUTUMN WINTER 2016/2017

01

Menswear 2-4:

Surplus Sophisticate

5-7:

Effortless Ensemble

8-10:

Aesthetic Athletic

Print & Graphic 11-13:

Amplified Voices

14-16:

Unconventional Copy

17-19:

Pin Mania

Print & Graphic 20-21:

Elemental Industrialism

22-23:

Suspended Reality

24-25:

Blanc Canvas

02

A

military aesthetic continues to dominate for A/W 16/17, its presence has been seen on the catwalks from London to Milan, moving from the deconstructed look of S/S 16 towards a more reďŹ ned simplistic look.

This seasons take on an eternal classic features thick, substantial woollen and woven fabrics providing deďŹ ned structure to Jackets and Trousers. Garments have minimal detailing other

than shoulder epaulettes and patched pockets on shirts and jackets, cargo pockets on trousers and occasional use of camo print typical of this style.

Many designers have opted for zips rather than button fastenings to keep with the minimal clean feel.

The colour palette remains quite traditional, encompassing the usual woodland colours of khaki green, brown ochre and contrasting pewter greys.

Menswear Trend 1Surplus Sophisticate

Craig Green A/W16

03

-On the runway

1205 A/W16

Agi & Sam A/W16

Maharishi A/W16 Designers such as Craig Green , 1205 and Agi & Sam have taken a more contemporary approach with minimal colour palettes and longline cuts, where as Maharishi has gone for a bolder approach through use of patchwork and camo prints, this style can also be seen in the work of Gosha Rubchinskiy has opted for a more utilitarian feel.

Maharishi A/W16

06. Zero Dark Thirty

05. Navy Seal

04. Nato Green

01. Dessert Storm

02. Quicksand

01. Arazona Tan

04

Gosha Rubchinskiy A/W16

05 Menswear Trend 2Effortless Ensemble Margaret Howell A/W16

T

his season, the term smart casual has been elevated to new levels. Relaxed tailored cuts taking see the two peace suit being appropriated in a range of soft textured materials such as wool, stretched cotton and ďŹ ne gauge jersey.

Key Items such as the tailored jogger has been rising in popularity over the last few seasons, for A/W 16 brands have been veering more towards a casual ďŹ nish in stretch cottons with demure waistbands, and

experamenting with pocket detailing, colour and a tapered hem, either elasticated or nonchalantly rolled-up. ensuring each option crosses over into tailoring territory.

The colour palette consists of a warm group of core darks suck as gun metal grey, dark violet, chocolate and dull brown combined with some contrasting lighter shaded such as a pewter grey and ochre to brighten up the palette.

06 Maison Margiela A/W16

-On the runway

Billy Reid A/W16

Relaxed tailoring has been championed by many designers this season, Margiela, Billy Reid, Wooyoungmi and Margaret Howell have all adopted the loose cut trouser that many have chosen to pair with a oversized wollen jumper loosley tucked in.

Maison Margiela A/W16

Wooyoungmi A/W16

06.Royal Majesty

05.Overcast

04.Reflecting Pool

03.Peppercorn

02.Afternoon Tea

01.Peppercorn

07

Wooyoungmi A/W16

08

A

esthetic athletic is a tasteful hybrid of smart casual combined with the versatility of sportswear. The status of the tracksuit is elevated through tailored cuts and the use of materials such as velour, nylon , leather and a range of more structured materials. Monochrome prints and pinstripe patterns provide a stylish contemporary appeal.

A Key item of this trend is the nylon bomber jacket that continues a strong go to transitional outerwear option.

This season many designers have made adaptations such as replacing the cropped cut and elasticated waistband for a long line, looser cut in statement colours such as cobalt blue or wine red.

Menswear Trend 3Aesthetic Athletic

Y-3 A/W16

09 Alexander Wang A/W16

Astrid Andersen A/W16 Armand Dicker A/W16

-On the runway Burberry and Astrid Andersen have both upscaled the athletic vision with slim cuts and dark rich hues where as Armand dicker and Alexander Wang are edging towards an elevated streetwear aesthetic with a monochromatic colour palette and structured garments.

Burberry A/W16

Astrid Andersen A/W16

06.Midnight Sprint

05.Sharkskin

04. End Zone

03.Carbon Fiber

02.Obsidian

01.Arctic Fox

10

Adidas Originals by White Mountaineerin A/W16

11

Print & Graphics trend 1Amplified Voices

Andrea Crews A/W16

G

raphic streetwear comes to life through bold text based graphics, reinventing the ever popular slogan trend. This season, ampliďŹ ed voices gets its message across loud and proud through use of large scale logos and slogans in bold fonts, enclosed in contrasting boxes, accentuating the message.

This technique easily translates for both mens and womenswear, updating and breathing new life into the slogan trend for yet another season in a primarily monochromatic colour palette with the occasional use of bright accent tones such as rich orange or blue.

12 -On the runway

Nonconformist A/W16

Alexander Wang A/W16

Bobby Abley A/W16

Andrea Crews, Alexander Wang, Bobby Abley and Sixth June are all amongst brands who have adopted this bold text graphic style. Traditional placement of the chest and back is common, and monochromatic tones are used in contrast to sheer or bright coloured materials for maximum visual effect.

Eleven Paris A/W16

06.Hackney

05.Straight Razor

04.Jumpsuit

03.Pure Columbian

02.Old Denim

01.Up In Smoke

13

Sixth June A/W16

14

I

nspired by the dress code of the 90s American skate scene, unconventional copy sees illustration deviating away from the traditional placement of the front and and appearing on more irregular ares of the garment such as the back, sleeves, collar, ankle and calves areas. This trend has manifested itself through textheavy short, sharp slogans, brand logos and abstract digital motifs.

Typical of modern street wear, the colour palette is predominately monochromatic, broken by elements containing bright, contrasting primary colours in ode to its 90’s inspired American roots.

Print & Graphics trend 2Unconventional Copy

Ader Error A/W16

15 KTZ A/W16

-On the runway

Angus Chiang A/W16

Angus Chiang and KTZ have gone for visually bold contrasting text placed on the sleeves, legs and pockets of their garments.

Ader Error A/W16

Ader error, Vetements and Gosha Rubchinskiy have toned down their approacah to the trend, with more subtle placement and use of fonts.

Gosha Rubchinskiy A/W16

Vetements A/W16

06.Paradise City

05.Teen Spirit

04.Paranoid

03.Gnarly

02.Sunburst Strat

01.Fender

16

Ader Error A/W16

17 Print & Graphics trend 3Pin Mania Pintrill A/W16

T

his season, enamel pins and appliquĂŠ badges are items that can be seen growing in popularity across menswear and womenswear alike. This trend has gained an online cult like following with several instagram accounts and esty stores set up dedicated to them. The appeal of these speaks not only to the ongoing trend for personalisation, but also the wider cultural focus on gender neutrality.

Designers draw reference from pop culture, both current and retro, icons such as emojis, cartoon celebrity illustrations and fast-food culture appear teamed with catchy slogans brought to life through an extensive colour palette consiting of muted pastels and primary colours.

18

Punkypins.com

esty.com/Georgiaperry

Brosbi A/W 16

“Art is suddenly so much more accesvsible and people want a way to show off the designs that inspire them. Pins are a great way to take art offline and put it onto your favorite shirt for everyone to see� -Valley Cruse Press Heather Buchanan

06.Kanyes Soul

05.Life Aquatic

04.Silly Cactus

03.Watermelon

02.Mega LOLZ

01.Red Balloon

19

Julie Chiem

20

Bikini Berlin

Visual Merchandising trend 1Elemental Industrialism

E

lemental industrialism pairs the stripped back industrial atheistic with the beauty of the Great outdoors. This trend goes against the grain of modern technical advancements and aims to revertw to a more tranquil, natural environment that provides a sensitive and responsive experience.

Hard softness is a key characteristic of the trend, meaning soft materials are mimicked using hard

surfaces such as faux concrete or marble.

Elements of the outdoors are referenced through the use of patterns which occur naturally in rock, mountainous landscapes and snowscapes.

The illusion of texture is created using weathered, mottled effects.

The colour palette consists of for tonal greys, inky blacks and offwhites with touches of metallic

21 ESRL

Sulphur

Strata Layers

Beth Nicholas

Delicious Dimension

Established & Sons

Commonwealth

Richard Chai

The Richard Chai store (pictured above) was a temporary retail installation created by Snarkitecture in collaboration with designer Richard Chai as part of the Building Fashion series at HL23, presented by Boffo. Carved from the conďŹ nes of an existing structure beneath the High Line, the installation enveloped visitors within a glacial cavern excavated from a single material.

Wiktoria Szawie

22

Bikini Berlin

Visual Merchandising trend 2Suspended Reality

S

uspended Reality is a merchandising trend that creates an eye-catching in store visual experience.

The suspension of products cleverly saves on oorspace whilst drawing attention to merchandise.

A strong example of of this trend in action is in the Descente Blanc store

in Tokyo, which features hanging rails suspended from the ceiling, that can be raised or lowered to alter the space as necessary. Garments are merchandised by colour in repeat formations, making for an eye-catching, photo ready visual from all angles.

23

-Instore Hermes

Zanotta

Descente Blanc

Sneaker store Kith utilised Nike’s signature merchandising technique of integrating product into store design within its recently opened New York store, designed by Snarkitecture. An installation of 700 white cast-replica Nike Air Jordan II’s are suspended from the ceiling, promoting product while also providing shoppers with a photo opportunity.

Kith Brooklyn

24

C29

Visual Merchandising trend 3Blanc Canvas B

lanc Canvas celebrates the concept the less is more, stripping the retail space back to basics and focusing on the the minimalist, timeless appeal of a pristine white interior.

All-white spaces serve as a striking, timeless backdrop, offering a blank canvas for retailers to play with contrasts, with brightly coloured clothing or ďŹ xtures popping against white

ooring and walls, or simply allowing the items on show to stand out as the focus.

Pictured above, is an eyewear store based in Greece, designed by Athensbased architecture studio 314. The store pairs mirrored furniture with gleaming white surfaces and is based on the idea of a gallery, showcasing the glasses as though they are works of art.

25

-Instore Christopher Kane, London

Sneakerhead, Moscow

Instrmnt, Glasgow

Sneakerhead, Moscow

N3ON, Shanghai

Iguaneye, Tokyo

Pictured above, Chinese eyewear retailer Coterie opened a concept store in Shanghai called N3on, which features a gleaming all white interior with an aesthetic inspired by perception and the human eye’s sense of sight.

Pictured Left, Japanese brand Iguaneye opened a new store in Tokyo designed by interior designer Soichi Mizutani.What he created an oversized three-dimensional white cave-like structure based on the unusual shape of the brand‘s footwear.

This structure was created using a computer programme to generate the geometric shape.

References Fig 1.Kinsella, F. (2015) Craig Green AW16. Available at: http://www. vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/mens/craig-green/full-lengthphotos/gallery/1537991 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig.2Vogue (2015) Marishi AW16. Available at: http://www.vogue. co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/mens/maharishi/full-length-photos/gallery/1538698 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 3.1205 (2015) Available at: http://cdni.condenast. co.uk/1280x1920/Shows/AW2016/London/Mens/1205/1205_lb_ fw16_019_1280x1920.jpg (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 4.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumnwinter-2016/mens/agi-sam/full-length-photos/gallery/1538235 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig.5Vogue (2015) Marishi AW16. Available at: http://www.vogue. co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/mens/maharishi/full-length-photos/gallery/1534594 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 6.Petty, F. (2016) Exclusive: Go backstage at gosha rubchinskiy’s autumn/winter 16 show | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/ article/exclusive-go-backstage-at-gosha-rubchinskiys-autumnwinter16-show (Accessed: 12 April 2016).

Fig 7.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumnwinter-2016/mens/margaret-howell/full-length-photos/gallery/1538896 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 8.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumnwinter-2016/mens/maison-margiela/full-length-photos/gallery/1549432 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 9.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumnwinter-2016/mens/Billy_Ried/full-length-photos/gallery/1537994 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 10.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/mens/wooyoungmi/full-length-photos/gallery/1550775 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig. 11Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/mens/wooyoungmi/full-length-photos/gallery/1550532 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 12.Foxton, J. (2015) Y-3 AW16. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/21338/12/y-3-aw16 (Accessed: 3 April 2016).

Fig 13.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ autumn-winter-2016/mens/astrid-andersen/full-length-photos/gallery/1538348 (Accessed: 11 April 2016) Fig 14.Alexander Wang spring 2016 menswear fashion show (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/ alexander-wang/slideshow/collection#17 (Accessed: 11 April 2016) Fig 15.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ autumn-winter-2016/mens/Armand_Dicker/full-length-photos/gallery/1538332 (Accessed: 11April 2016).

Fig 16.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ autumn-winter-2016/mens/burberry/full-length-photos/gallery/1540473 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 17.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ autumn-winter-2016/mens/astrid-andersen/full-length-photos/gallery/1538342 (Accessed: 11 April 2016) Fig. 18Giacometti, A. (2015) Adidas originals by white mountaineering.

Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/21228/3/adidasoriginals-by-white-mountaineering (Accessed: 3 April 2016).

Fig 19.Staiano, G. (2016) Andrea Crews menswear fall winter 2016 Paris. Available at: http://nowfashion.com/andrea-crews-menswear-fall-

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winter-2016-paris-17715?photo=879885 (Accessed: 15 April 2016).

Fig 20..Watkins, H. (2016) Berlin trade show roundup. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/berlin-trade-show-wrap-prints-graphics/ (accessed: 15 April 2016) Fig 21.Trodden, B. (2016) Best of New York fashion week AW16 Alexander Wang. Available at: http://www.theyouway.com/en/fashion-en/ fashion-week-fashion-en/alexander-wang-autumnwinter-2016 (Accessed: 15 April 2016).

Fig 22.Slater, K. (2016) ‘Bobby Albey AW16 | KALTBLUT magazine’, Fashion, 15 January. Available at: http://www.kaltblut-magazine. com/bobby-albey-aw16/ (Accessed: 15 April 2016).

Fig 23.Watkins, H. (2016) Berlin trade show roundup. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/berlin-trade-show-wrap-prints-graphics/ (accessed: 15 April 2016) Fig 24.CA (2015) SIXTH JUNE Parisian follow CA|EN for men..

Available at: http://caenfashion.com/post/91668258607/sixth-june-parisian-follow-ca-en-for-men (Accessed: 15 April 2016).

Fig 25.ADER AderSpace # shop # (no date) Available at: http:// en.adererror.com/product/unisex-Your-life-is-a-joke-sockswhitesoldout/729/ (Accessed: 15 April 2016).

Fig 26.Madsen, A.C. (2016) London collections men: Gender-free zone | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/london-collections-men-gender-free-zone (Accessed: 11 May 2016).

Fig 27.StudioCollectionLondon (2016) KTZ AW16 MENSWEAR. Available at: http://studiocollectionlondon.com/pages/ktz-aw16-menswear (Accessed: 13 April 2016).

Fig 28.ADER AderSpace # shop # (no date) Available at: http:// en.adererror.com/product/unisex-Your-life-is-a-joke-sockswhitesoldout/769/ (Accessed: 15 April 2016).

Fig 29.Show (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ autumn-winter-2016/mens/gosha-rubchinskiy/full-length-photos/gallery/1548846 (Accessed: 11 April 2016).

Fig 30.Watkins, H. (2016) Berlin trade show roundup. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/berlin-trade-show-wrap-prints-graphics/ (accessed: 15 April 2016) Fig 31.Mclaughlin, R (2016). Own Image Fig 32.Saunter, L. (2015) Industrial. Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/58922/page/13 (Accessed 15 April 2016) Fig 33.Saunter, L. (2015) Industrial. Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/58922/page/13 (Accessed 15 April 2016) Fig 34.Saunter, L. (2015) Industrial. Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/58922/page/13 (Accessed 15 April 2016) Fig 35.Saunter, L. (2016) White out. Available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/65315/page/1

Rebecca McLaughlin N0575814 FA S H 2 0 0 3 2 _ P R O M O T I O N & C O N T E X T