AUSTRALIAN FORESTERS in PAPUA NEW GUINEA 1922-1975
FOREST MANAGEMENT.
NAME Peter John Eddowes 1935 2021
JOINED FORESTRY PNG June, 1961
OCCUPATION
Forest Ranger (initially) to Wood Technologist & OIC Timber Utilisation & Marketing. FPRC.
WORK LOCALITIES All over PNG and in all Provinces incl., the islands of the Bismarck Archipelago, Bougainville, Louisiade Archipelago & the D’Entrecasteaux group, Milne Bay, Central, Gulf & Western Provinces, Highlands, Lae, Bulolo/Wau, Madang, Wewak & Vanimo. This in relation to wood & botanical expeditions & collection programmes for large wood specimens (flitches) to go to CSIRO Melbourne for determination of the wood properties (physical & mechanical).
Spent latter part at the FPRC. Hohola. POM.
DEPARTURE PNG 1961-1981(Forestry) & 1985-1993 (Private & FIC)
LIFE AFTER PNG Life was never the same after PNG!!
Have kept some association with PNG via private consulting work and timber imports back into Australia.
Certificate of Forestry Bulolo Forestry College 1963
OTHER FORESTRY STAFF
Ted Roach, ‘Darby’ Munro, Dick Riley, Ken Skyring, Frank Coppock, ‘Blue’ Ramsay, Eric Hammermaster, Nev Howcroft, John Godlee, Joe Havel, Norm Hillary, Les Austin, Arthur Mobbs, Greg McDonald, Barry Hartwell, John Colwell, Gerry Vickers, Colin Levy, Kevin Garbutt, Rick & Jenny Stokes, Jack Zieck, Des Harries, John Pacak, Sue Rayner, Maru Kumul, Semina Apove, Con Aidou, Arti Arua.
Botanists: John Womersley, Ted Henty, Mark Coode, Andy Gillison, Michael Galore, Bob Johns, Jim Croft, Nigel Clunie, David Frodin, Andre Millar.
“What a blast what a ride!”
“The years have flown but the memories linger on!”
“Thank you, ‘Papua New Guinea,’ for the introduction to the beginning of my early (cultural) life and in having given me the privilege of being able to meet, work, learn and play with so many great people!”
REFLECTIONS OF PAST TIMES IN PNG FORESTRY (1961-75).
Peter J. Eddowes Technical Officer. Division of Utilisation (Konedobu) & then OIC of the Wood Technology & Utilisation Division of the Forest Products Research Centre. Department of Forests (Hohola). N.C.D. 1961 1981.
Off into the Sunset:
In June of 1961, I boarded a TAA Douglas DC6B ‘Skymaster’ at Mascot airport (Sydney). This was my very first international flight to an overseas country and to parts unknown. From memory, the flight departed at around 10.00 p.m. and arrived in Port Moresby at around 6.00 a.m. At this time, a curfew prevailed in the national capital, and aside from the usual daily bustle of the public going to and from their daily workplace, there was an eerie silence come 6.00 p.m. Those of us who had been recruited to serve in various posts with the then, Australian Government Departments, included a fireman, postal services officer, taxation officer and the new forest recruits. Initially we were housed at the ‘bottom pub,’ as it was favourably known, and slept on the outside (open) veranda overlooking the old Burns Philip general store. Adjacent to the Pub and down a set of narrow, winding stairs, was the dingy waterhole known as the ‘Snake pit,’ and for very good reasons!!!
The first two to three months was taken up with administration courses at Konedobu including ‘briefings’ at the Department of Forest H.Q at Konedobu. The Director of Forests at this time was Bill Suttie, and the Government Administrator, Sir Donald Cleland and his lovely, charming wife, Lady Rachel. Upon completion of the Administration courses, I received a posting to the forest outstation of Kerevat, 45 min. from the main town of Rabaul, on the Gazelle Peninsula of New Britain. This was supposed to be only a temporary (short) posting pending the readiness of the College including accommodation in Bulolo.
Over the (later) ensuing years, upon my return to Moresby, from the Forestry school, and then later, upon becoming the OIC of the Wood Technology & Utilisation Division, of the Forest Products Research Centre, I had a lot to do with Lady Cleland, and others, in the beautification of the National Capital and in the organising of the annual Port Moresby Flower Show, and together with Col Levy, the setting up of a ‘Seafarers’ museum down at the Konedobu foreshore.
This was to preserve and exhibit one of the large, majestic, twin hulled (wooden) ‘Lakatoi’ that used to ply trade up and down the Papuan coast during the ‘Laurabada’ (strong wind) season. This was one of Lady Cleland’s pet projects.
Lakatoi near Elevala island prior to 1885.
Source Wikipedia
Upon my departure from Moresby, and arrival at Rabaul airport, Arthur and Hazel Mobbs met me. Upon introducing ourselves to each other, we then headed off to downtown Rabaul, and for a reconnaissance of the township, before going to the Cosmo Hotel to quaff a cool
ale. What a different world this was to Port Moresby and my somewhat (naïve) protected way of life, that was, in my hometown of Sydney? I was immediately taken aback by the whole place, where the sulphurous odour from the nearby (active) volcano of Matupit, lingered in the back of one’s throat but partly compensated or compounded, by the more pleasant, but strong odour of coconut oil as arising from the coconut processing plant down at the main wharf, as it wafted throughout the small township.
Then the long lasting impression I had, and still have, of the lovely old wooden, colonial style buildings that lined the main street, including Burns Philp and Steamships trading companies, the old colonial churches built during the German reign, the unique Chinese trade stores, that sold everything from a pin to an anchor, including woven Buka baskets from Bougainville, and tinned (Del Monte) peaches from the U.S.A. Then the colourful ‘boong’ (local fresh food market) that sold just about everything one could eat, from bush fowl eggs, dug up from the slopes of the nearby Volcano, to live chooks, small woven baskets filled with tomatoes, giant string beans, the delicious ‘galip’ nuts (Canarium indicum), and hand sewn ‘meri’ blouses. Then in the learning of the early history of Rabaul during the reign of Queen Emma, the history of the second world war, and the invasion of the Japanese, and of the tunnels that they made in the ‘pumice’(coral) foreshore to hide their small (surveillance) submarines.
Rabaul at this time was a vibrant, cosmopolitan town, mixed with many Chinese, Malay Chinese, and others arising from the aftermath of WW2. The food fare as abounding in the town was fabulous, and it was later, at a (mixed race) party in Rabaul, where I had my introduction to real ‘Nasi Goreng’, and ‘Sashimi’ (locally caught Tuna) and ‘Raw fish’, small thin strips of fresh fish, marinated (overnight) in ‘Mooli’ (fresh lemon juice), and the really great Chinese restaurants that served an array of wonderful and authentic Chinese meals.’
Then there was the old colonial bastion, of the exclusive, Rabaul Planter’s Club. Here, in contrast to the local delicious, fare of Malay and Chinese food, was original dining from a bygone colonial era. You had to be a Planter (e.g., Cocoa or Copra etc.) or be officially invited by a member Planter, to enter this exclusive club. “What a culture shock. I was out of my depth in this unique cosmopolitan world!”
I was fortunate to be invited, later, into this colonial world of fine fare dining, by one of the local Planters namely Bert Price. Bert would be my cordial host for the evening. It was the traditional dress attire of “whites” and traditional silver service dining including, starched tablecloths and napkins, cutlery galore, and comprising a three course meal incl., soup of the day, roast beef and Yorkshire pudding or poached fish, followed by sweets. The meal was preceded by a cool ale or whiskey, and afterwards by locally brewed coffee, and a cheese platter, served with a liqueur or sherry, and a cigar. The local Tolai waiters were resplendent in their short sleeved white shirts and brown ‘lap laps’ that did not look out of place in this colonial era.
What a day for my introduction to Rabaul, as we drove on past the Nonga hospital, and along the well maintained, picturesque (pumice) coast road, lined with waving palms, and having to evade the occasional village pig that scampered across the road in front of us. This moment was my real introduction to PNG and has stayed with me until this day.
“My God, was I entrapped in a time warp, or having an adventurous dream”?
My first allocated lot of work at the busy Kerevat Forest station, and sawmill, saw me involved in (dreary) silvicultural & mensuration work that involved walking up and down, seemingly endless rows of plantation trees, with a can of paint and paint brush, to select and mark trees for thinning and culling (teak & kamarere), and then working in the balsawood
(Ochroma lagopus) plantations, measuring, and recording incremental growth. Thankfully after a short time, I was recruited into the ‘bush’ crew to work with the somewhat infamous (practical Joker) but wonderful rogue, Dick Riley, and together with Ken Skyring and John Smith, (not the forestry cadet) who helped to skill me in the operations of the machinery as well as tree/log identification.
These men were hard, tough Bushmen, with Dick hailing from the timber area of Dorrigo in NSW where he did the hard yards in felling of trees with an axe, and then, the cutting and adzing to size, of hardwood sleepers. Ken was from the forest area of Gympie where he worked in logging and roadbuilding. So, this now, ‘Gang of 4’ including, the fresh faced recruit from OZ, had the task of the plotting of bush roads into the immediate (virgin) forest area just down from the Forestry sawmill and across the Kerevat river. The logs that were felled were sold to the local saw millers in Rabaul incl., Ben Cheong, Dick Gault and, then there was Jack Chipper,’ the so called Lord Mayor of Rabaul. “Who was this guy (Jack Chipper) that had the audacity to drive around the small township of Rabaul in a bloody ‘gold’ Rolls Royce”?
We (the bush crew) worked hard and long hours, getting started before 6.00 a.m. and going through until 5.00 p.m. This also included Les Austin who ran the machinery workshop, and Arthur Mobbs and Norm Hillary (Saw Doctor), who managed and ran the Government sawmill. Upon my joining up with the Bush Crew, I had had no previous experience in the operation of heavy equipment. However, it was not long before I became a proficient Operator, under the tutelage of the others. I was having a great time, as well as learning the ropes of roading, logging, and snigging, and in the identification of the timber species. During our time in working the bush, we came across a Japanese Zero fighter and what appeared to an American Bomber. Both planes had been shot down during WW2 and bore the relevant scars of battle! Both planes were heavily covered in vines and vegetation and there were no remnants of bodies to be found. One may assume that they had bailed out before landing.
Due to the hours worked, during the week, we were permitted to have Friday afternoons off so as we could go into Rabaul to do our weekly shopping. This did not require a lot of provisioning, as we were pretty well self sufficient in fresh fish and vegetables, and the odd chicken that may have strayed off course.
Kerevat The Social Scene: On most weekends or Friday evening, I would go fishing in Kerevat Harbour together with Ken and/or Dick and/or Arthur Mobbs. We had built a 3 4m wooden (plank) boat at the Kerevat sawmill, out of ‘talis’ (Terminalia spp.) and then strapped on a 40hp Johnson outboard. We would ‘troll’ around the harbour before heading off to the mouth of the Kerevat River to catch some live bait fish, and then head on up to ‘Klinwater’ in the Bainings to see if any of the notorious ‘Wild West’ Lawrence brothers were at home, or out logging in the Bainings? At sunset, we headed out to Star Reef, a great fishing spot, drop anchor, and catch enough fish, including Coral Trout and Red Emperor, to feed the whole station for a week.
Aside from fishing as a recreation, the local 9 hole golf course and clubhouse that was created and built from scratch by the expatriates from the Didiman (Agriculture Experimental Station) and Forestry personnel, was well patronised with a 9 hole competition on Wednesday after work, and then a full 18 hole (2x9 rounds) tournament on the Sunday. Many a tale of great shots, near misses and disappointments, and the throwing of a set of clubs, one by one, into the Kapok tree plantation ‘ala’ a frustrated Cliff Southwell! However, after a change of heart, Cliff was back after a couple of days hunting for his clubs. There was also
the ‘antics’ of one, Bill Connolly, the Regional Forest Accountant who would drop into the Golf Club on occasions, from Rabaul, for a round of golf, but hardly ever completed the 9 holes? He was found, one night, stranded up a tree, at the back of the Forest Office, disoriented and lost and with no idea as to where he was? Luckily, Robert Schneider (Plantation Manager) was able to come to the rescue! This was just one of many ‘highlights’ of Kerevat social golf at its best?
This all contributed toward a wonderful weekly, social outing of golf, that I am sure is still remembered by all of those who were involved. This included the ‘Kerevat’ Education teachers of Hecker, Baker, Stolz and Close, the ‘Didiman’ crew of O’Donohue, Swanson and Co., the Forestry guys of Godlee, J.E.N Smith, Southwell and Eddowes, plus the local ‘Planters’ including Price, Coote, Byrne, Dennis, and the Public Work’s road maintenance Grader Operator Ray Brown, who despite having a ‘withered’ left arm’ could hit a golf ball as well, or better, than most of us?
In 1962, I was elected as Club Captain of the Kerevat Golf Club and was also fortunate enough to emerge as the winner of the North Coast Open Golf, match play championship over 36 holes at the Kerevat golf course after having beaten John Godlee (Forestry) and John O’Donohue (Didiman) in the quarter and semi finals, respectively. Then to go on to defeat local Planter, Dion Coote, in a hard fought final, over two days, at the 37th hole!
Then there were the regular Saturday night dances as held in Rabaul to the recorded music of Connie Francis and Billy Vaughan and others, of that great musical era. There were three main clubs incl., the ‘Kuo Min Tang’ (Chinese Club), ‘Kombui’ Club and ‘Xavier Hall’ (Church Club). They were all well patronised and one may even ‘drift’ from one club to the other during the evening. Rum & Coke was the popular drink, and that certainly did a good job in firing up a few of the patrons that led to more than just a dance. Kerevat was also, a wonderful place for socialising, parties, and frivolity? Hardly ever a dull moment, as there was always one reason or another to have a party. One of the best was when Max & Dallas Corliss were to leave Kerevat for ‘greener’ pastures. We had killed the sacred cow for the ‘barbie’ and through the goodness of his heart, Dick Riley had made and decorated a large cake covered in pink icing. Upon calling on Dallas to blow out the candles, she was given a knife to cut up the cake. Overcome with emotion and amid a touch of sadness and a few tears, Dallas cut the large (pink) cake only to find out, in sheer amazement, that it had been made from ‘fresh’ cow manure!
“Another one of Dick Riley’s practical jokes!”
Bulolo Forestry College. Toward the end of 1962, I received notice for my departure (reluctantly) from Rabaul, to return to Port Moresby for a briefing session, prior to heading off to Bulolo for the commencement of the very first Forestry school. The initial intake of the newly recruited (six) students saw all of us housed in one old wooden house opposite the Forestry Office. The overall housing and teaching conditions were somewhat rudimentary, with the classroom in the storage room for the Pine seeds. Joe Havel was the first official Principal of the College and had the task of shaping the new (raw) recruits into ‘knowledgeable’ Forest Officers, over the next 18 months.
To his credit, he was a very dedicated man, and although lacking in resources, he was devoted to the task ahead, and did a wonderful job over the ensuing period of lecturing, organising field trips to and including the ‘mossy’ beech (Nothofagus) forests of Eadie Creek in Wau with Kevin White as our guide, and with visits to the Bulolo Plymill, Golden Pines sawmills, and the local sawmills in Lae. He also arranged for other members of the Forestry Department to present lectures in the various fields of Forestry, including forest surveys,
aerial photography and interpretation, mensuration and silviculture, botany, timber utilisation and timber identification etc. The part time lecturers included Kevin White, Alan Cameron, Eric Hammermaster, Greg McDonald, Phil Ainsworth, Alan Ross, and John Womersley.
We, the students, were also involved in a major ‘burn off’ in the Wau valley. Frank Coppock (OIC) oversaw the operation, and together with other forestry personnel and local labourers, a whole day was spent in a successful ‘burn.’ After that, we all retreated to the old Wau Pub for a few ales where caution had to be observed due to the presence of ‘termites’ in the floorboards!
One of two hotels in Wau. Note Mt Kaindi in the background. 1930’s.
Source PNGAA.
Photo
Graduation: Upon graduating at the end of 1963. I was seconded to the Division of Utilisation to work together with Greg McDonald & Barry Hartwell under the leadership of the late John Colwell, Chief of Division of Utilisation. The Utilisation workshop was located at the bottom of Lawes’ Road in Konedobu, just down past the printing office of the Post Courier newspaper, and opposite the ‘Bert Stubbs’ plumbing and joinery workshops. Our major task, as allocated, was to plot and plan for expeditions, throughout the Country, for the collection of wood material, supported by fertile botanical material, collected under the authentic ‘New Guinea Forest’ (NGF) series, for what was deemed, the major commercial timber species as occurring throughout the country, and including the islands of the Bismarck Archipelago, Bougainville and the remote islands of the Milne Bay District including the islands of the Louisiade Archipelago and the D’Entrecasteaux Islands.
As well, other research projects included the establishment of trials for determining the Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC) for Port Moresby and its environs, marine wood borer trials, timber seasoning and Graveyard (Durability) trials. This together, with the ongoing collections of sample logs together with botanical material and the milling of the timbers, for undertaking and establishing the machining and working properties of the major timber species. The preparation of trial materials for these projects was undertaken and carried out at the Utilisation workshop at Lawes Road utilising the materials from the (authentic) wood collection programme. This involved the preparation and the labelling (metal tags) of 50x50mm wooden stakes for the natural durability trials to go into a prepared graveyard site at the Brown River Forest Station, plus 100x100mm squares for the marine wood borer trials, made up into sample ‘panels’, affixed with stainless steel fittings to go into Fairfax harbour. The test site was across the harbour from Moresby, near the old holding area for a ‘Lepper’
colony. There was also, a cross selection of small wood samples (10mm thick) prepared for the EMC trials for use in a ‘Stephenson Screen’ to be located at Jacksons airport, as well as the 150x25mm material for wood seasoning trials.
“We were fully occupied in the regular and ongoing monitoring and recording of these tests, as well as having to maintain the ‘graveyard’ at the Brown River Forest Station.”
One important project to arise from our efforts at the Division of Utilisation was to make the ‘Mace’ for the first sitting of the new Parliament come independence in 1975. The Mace was constructed from a variety of timbers and put together with the ‘furnishings’ by Barry Hartwell. We used the materials from the authentic wood collections including Rosewood, Ebony, Silver Ash, and Walnut. It was then placed in a beautiful silk lined box. I believe that the Mace is still in use to this day, in the current Parliament.
PNG Parliament The Mace. Source National 7/12/2022
Lalai Vali, 55, from Imuagoro village in Rigo, Central is the Sergeant at Arms at Parliament. His job is to carry the mace into the chamber at the start of a Parliament session. The mace is the symbol of the Queen’s authority and without it the House cannot meet nor pass laws. It symbolises the authority of the Speaker.
Later, upon moving from the Lawe’s Road Workshop out to our new place of residence, ‘The Forest Products Research Centre’ (FPRC) at Hohola, we were called upon to manufacture the large ‘laminated’ beams for the new PNG Parliament at Waigani. The beams were made up from kempas (Koompassia grandiflora).and took many, many hours to fabricate. John Pacak was to oversee the manufacturing and thence, their delivery to the building site, upon completion.
Local fieldwork: Prior to the undertaking of our first major expedition, we (Eddowes, McDonald & Kumul) made many field excursions and field collection trips, throughout the Central District including the environs of Sogeri, and Rigo and the Brown and Vanapa Rivers. The same party also undertook an expedition, to Daru and the Oriomo River area, to pinpoint and collect some of the major occurring timber species in this ‘unique’ monsoon/ evergreen forest area. The main species collected for conversion into flitches at the local sawmill of Jack Eustice included, the magnificent furniture and cabinet woods of silky oak and pink silky oak (Grevillea & Alloxylon), silver ash, hickory ash and maple silkwood (Flindersia spp ) and wattle (Acacia).
Gogol Forest Survey. Madang District: In 1963 both Kumul and Eddowes, were involved in the initial Gogol Forest Survey in Madang. From recollection, Don McIntosh (Director) was leading the survey group together with Eric Hammermaster and Bill Jenkin. This was the very first (forest) survey to have use of a Chopper, and what a difference it made, to be flown
in and out of the designated areas for surveying, rather than footslogging, together with ‘carriers’ and provisions? Both Maru Kumul and I were to make several interesting botanical and wood collections during our time with the survey team including that of Bridelia spp., a previously unknown occurrence in the area.
The very first ‘chopper’ as used in forest survey work. Gogol forest resource. Madang. 1963. Photo credit Peter Eddowes.
Bougainville Toimonapu Plantation & Tonolei Harbour. In 1964, the first of the ‘major’ wood collection programmes was planned for Tonolei Harbour (Bougainville). This was to collect wood (round log) sample material of the swamp species of Terminalia brassii, at nearby Toimonapu plantation, for veneer/plywood trials by the CSIRO. After landing in Kieta on our DC3 charter flight, we were met by our pre arranged transport for travel down the coast. This happened to be a farm tractor with a flat top trailer! What a ride we had, as we wound our way through the many copra plantations, and seemingly endless rows of coconut palms, on the bumpy/bouncy ride to our destination. Upon conclusion of this part of the exercise, at Toimonapu plantation, we then were to trek over the Crown Prince Range and down into Tonolei Harbour which was to take two days.
The plantation (Burns Philp) where we stayed was, at this time, managed by a P.J McDonald (query may have been Clarky Mr Clark) and his wife. Old P.J was an eccentric character, and a true colonialist and monarchist. He wore a large ‘handle bar’ moustache, a pith helmet, and starched whites. He arose every morning, religiously at 0600 hrs, and dressed immaculately, with a baton under his arm, would march down to his established flagpole area, together with his entourage, and have one of his Buka bois, also decked out in lap-lap, starched white shirt, and trumpet in hand, play a ‘reveille’ whilst another ‘boi’ hoisted up the Union Jack!
“What a grand performance it was, an undoubted display of patriotism and loyalty to the ‘Crown.’ It no doubt helped in the preservation of his sanity?”
After completing this task in having collected and prepared the sample log ‘rounds’ of Terminalia brassii and left with P.J McDonald for later pick up by barge, the small party of McDonald, Eddowes, and Maru Kumul, together with six locally hired ‘carriers’, and including our chain saws, collecting gear, provisions, and our trusty ‘Archimedes’ outboard motor, set off on the two day trek across the Crown Prince Range toward Tonolei Harbour. Fortunately, the Tonolei area had been surveyed earlier by Hammermaster and Kazakoff, and in anticipation of the arrival of other forest personnel, they had made built, from local
materials, a large bush house for any incoming (transit) personnel as well as establishing a small vegetable garden of basic needs such as snake beans and kau kau (sweet potato).
The area was next to the harbour foreshore, so it met all our needs for the next few weeks as we went about our task of identifying and collecting both botanical and (round) wood materials of the major timber occurrences incl., Calophyllum and Burckella.
Once the (round) log samples had been collected and assembled at our camp, we then had to get them up to the eastern point of Tonolei Harbour. This to await their ‘pick up’ by barge, for shipment back to Rabaul. Then to arrange for subsequent shipment to CSIRO in Melbourne, to undergo ‘peeling’ trials to establish their suitability for rotary peeling, veneer and for plywood. The task of getting these sample logs to the eastern pick up point of the large harbour, required some ingenuity on our part, as all we had was a small ‘Archimedes’ outboard motor. We decided to hire a ‘tinnie’ from one of the local villagers and build some small rafts from poles of ‘lightweight’ trees, lashed together with vines, and then endeavour to tow the raft with the (round) sample logs, to the designated ‘pick up’ area, at the mouth of the harbour. This was to be some effort!
Loading of the (round) log samples onto ‘man made’ raft. Peter Eddowes (RHS) assisting with the loading. Tonolei Harbour 1964.
Photo
Every week or so, we would go over to Buin, to pick up some basic provisions such as rice and tinned bully beef, or tinned stew, and then to the District Office, to send a telegram to the Forest Office back at H.Q (Konedobu) to advise of progress. On one these days, I decided to do some ‘trolling’ on the way over to Buin. All we had was a 100lb breaking strain (gut) line, wrapped around a glass bottle with a home made lure of coloured materials from a rice bag. Catch of the day: Lo and behold, I latched onto a small (2.0m+) ‘sailfish’ and was given the fright of my life as it elevated itself out of the water in one almighty leap! With the line wrapped around my left hand, I was unable to disengage the line as the Sailfish took off. It ran and ran, as I kept trying to free my hand, until there was no more line left, and then the bottle flipped over the hand and the Sailfish was gone as was (nearly) my hand! Rather than the line having cut my hand, it had burned its way into the flesh, below my four fingers, so there was not a lot of blood. I still bear the scar to this day! Upon arrival at Buin, we went into one of the local Chinese Trade Stores, on the waterfront, and upon relating our tale of woe, we were greeted kindly by the Chinese Proprietors, who treated my hand, and gave us a darn good feed of hot ‘chicken rice.’
At the conclusion of this venture and the collection of all designated materials, we left Maru Kumul to stay with the log samples, botanical specimens, and our other gear, until the arrival of the barge from Rabaul. Maru Kumul was to then, accompany the cargo back to Rabaul for safe passage to the Government shed on Rabaul wharf and then, via the Regional Forest Office, arrange for the sample logs for shipment on next available vessel to Melbourne. Our other gear, including the botanical specimens and chain saws, to be flown back to Port Moresby. Greg McDonald and I had decided to hang onto, and further hire, the aluminium dinghy, and with the aid of our Archimedes outboard motor, steer a course back up the coast to Toimonapu Plantation, where we had arranged to leave the dinghy for later collection by the villagers from Tonolei. We then headed on back, aboard the farm tractor and trailer, on the ‘bumpy’ ride to Buin. From memory, we overnighted at the plantation of Kip
McCullough, a long-time resident and ‘Planter’ of the area, before boarding our DC3 flight back to Moresby the very next morning.
Photo credit Peter Eddowes.
Southern Highlands: Goroka. Lufa sawmill. The very next expedition and collection programme to be planned was to Goroka in the Eastern Highlands. Thence onto Lufa sawmill to undertake a reconnaissance survey of the montane forest resource which comprised mainly of Nothofagus species, and to make botanical collections of the various Nothofagus species, as well as other major occurrences, including the high altitude species of Terminalia brassii, and Neubergia corynocarpa. Then to fell and process a minimum of five trees per species, at the Lufa sawmill. The sawmill was owned at the time by Jack Thick, and we were to bed down there for a number of weeks as we surveyed, made botanical collections, and processed the logs at the sawmill, then for eventual despatch of the flitches back to Goroka airport and onto Port Moresby. It was extremely cold at night time (6 blankets). It was here at Lufa sawmill, where I experienced, for the very first and last time, the ‘friendly’ Highlands (Clan) handshake? It happened to be a long black arm between my crutch, and a hand, at the other end, gently squeezing the crown jewels. It was the local, impish ‘Tultul’ (Paramount Chief) showing his affection to me, as a visitor to his realm? That was a talking point for a few days and brought a smile to our faces. He was a regular visitor to the sawmill, and I was starting to be a little concerned, until one day, he brought along his lovely daughter, resplendent in local (shell) jewellery and pig fat to meet us?
After a few busy weeks, it was mission accomplished and all the wood materials and botanical collections were trucked back to Goroka airport and then back to Moresby on a chartered DC3. Then to arrange for the shipment of the sample materials to CSIRO.
Greg McDonald departs: Next up, we were to start planning yet again, for our next adventure, but this time in the absence of my work colleague and particularly good friend, Greg McDonald. Greg had decided to take up a position with a private logging company in the Solomon Islands. Greg would eventually return to Brisbane, to accept a position of work with the Queensland Forestry Department. The ensuing expeditions and collection programmes, would now therefore, be left to me and Maru Kumul to continue the good work!
Study Visit to the Division of Building Research, South Yarra. CSIRO. Melbourne. Meanwhile, in 1965, and upon an invitation from CSIRO, as arranged by John Colwell, I spent a period three months, at CSIRO, to study the wood anatomy of timbers, under the tutelage of Bob Ingle (Wood Anatomist). I had been working in close association with Bob since the collection of materials started for testing by CSIRO. During this period, Bob would receive, from me, small wood blocks of duplicate wood material from the (authentic) ‘NGF’ series, of wood collections. From these wood samples, Bob then prepared a full collection of microscopic slides which were invaluable in the support identification and authenticity, of the wood material as collected for testing by CSIRO.
Milne Bay: The D’Entrecasteaux Islands & the Louisiade Archipelago. Later, in 1966, both Maru Kumul and myself, we were invited to join a botanical expedition, together with Andy Gillison and Michael Galore (Botany), to the Trobriand Islands and to explore the then, little known (botanically) D’Entrecasteaux Islands and the Islands of the Louisiade Archipelago. Our ‘brief’ was to investigate the occurrence of ebony (Diospyros), its distribution, and the different species as may be occurring in the area? Also, to investigate and establish the feasibility of establishing a commercial sawmill (somewhere) in the area?
“The memories linger on of what may have been?”The Paramount Chief (Tultul) of Lufa region with daughter. Photo credit Peter Eddowes.
The party assembled at FPRC at Hohola and having pre-arranged for the provisions from Government Stores in POM, we checked to make sure that we had all the necessary collecting gear as well as chain saws, spare parts, and other provisions. We then loaded up the DC3 at Jacksons airport for our chartered flight to Kiriwina. The guest house, where we would be staying at Kiriwina, as well as a large Trade Store, was owned and run, by a former Forester, Tim Ward, later to become one of the early Members of Parliament.
Upon arrival at Kiriwina, we saw our chartered Government Trawler the M.V Yellongilly, moored offshore awaiting our embarkation. After a good night’s rest, we were paddled out, next morning, together with our equipment and basic provisions, to board the Yellongilly, which was to be our home for the next couple of months or so.
What a wonderful time this was going to be, and how fortunate and privileged we were to be cruising these beautiful islands in the aptly named ‘Coral Sea’ and in such a tranquil place where the northern part of the magnificent ‘Barrier Reef’ commences. We were warmly welcomed at each port of call where upon dropping anchor, we were greeted by the local villagers and the young topless ladies in grass skirts, who paddled out in their canoes to greet us with leis, fresh fruits, live chickens, and turtle eggs. The waters here were crystal clear, and one could observe the abundant marine life including turtles, dolphins and fish, swimming around unperturbed, from the deck of the M.V. Yellongilly.
“The scenes could well be likened to that of the arrival of the ‘Bounty’ in Tahiti!”
The party called into and made reconnaissance surveys, and botanical and wood collections, at all the larger Islands in the group. This included Rossell Island that was found to have a dominance of Calophyllum spp., Sudest Island with a cover of almost a pure stand of Vatica rassak and Woodlark Island that was well known for having the largest commercial stand of both black and striped ebony (Diospyros spp ).
Eventually, after having been cruising these tranquil islands, and atolls, for nearly three months, and making many valuable collections, especially that of ‘Diospyros,’ we called into Guasopa (Woodlark Island) and experienced some wonderful hospitality from Don Neate and family, including a ‘hot’ shower, and then sitting down to a hot, three course meal and bottle of ‘red!’ This was most welcome after nearly three months of cruising the islands and living on whatever we could catch and having ‘salt’ baths. Eventually, we departed from Woodlark Island and the hospitality of Don Neate and set sail for Misima Island where we disembarked for the very last time.
Southern Highlands: Mendi Mt. Giluwe. 1974. The next major expedition to be organised and arranged, was to Dimifa, located at the foot of Mt. Giluwe (3000m asl) in the Southern Highlands. I was accompanied by my right hand man, Maru Kumul, and his Assistant, Arti Arua. This expedition was to be in complete contrast to our expedition to the islands of the Milne Bay Province. After much (prior) communication with the Forest Office in Mendi, we had arranged to have built, at Dimifa at the foot of Mt. Giluwe, some large bush huts, from local materials, which included the (customary) thick bark from the coniferous Libocedrus trees, and a storage hut for our chainsaws, axes, collecting gear and provisions. Through the Forest Office, we were fortunate to have, a Government Land Rover, allocated to us and at our disposal, especially in case of emergency. Also, as arranged from the local Government Stores, blankets, and supplies of rice and tinned food incl., bully beef, baked beans, and hard biscuits, as well as some ‘stick’ tobacco, for the locally recruited labour line.
Part of the base camp for sorting of botanical material and storage of field gear incl., chain saws etc. Sleeping quarters (partly obscured) of bark huts, on RHS of photo.
Photo credit Peter Eddowes. The wood materials collected (logs) would be processed at and by the late Ron Neville M.P, at his sawmill in Mendi. We had also arranged with the Division of Botany in Lae, to join the party after we had established camp. Both John Womersley (OIC, Botany) and botanists Greg Leach and Michael Galore drove up to Mendi from Lae in their Land Rover. I was to be the ‘Head Chef’ for the duration of the expedition but mainly only at dinner time. I was fortunate to be able to conjure up a couple of village chooks and a village pig, from time to time, as well as some ‘kau kau’ (sweet potato) to supplement the very popular tinned bully beef, baked beans, rice, and hard biscuits etc.
Photo credit Peter Eddowes.
This was to be an exceedingly difficult and uncomfortable expedition. It was a bitterly cold time as the Highlands was under heavy ‘frost’ and as well, the party was experiencing altitude sickness incl., dizziness, and nosebleeds. It was near impossible to get started until the sun rose above the mountain, but then again, cut short in mid afternoon, by the bitterly cold wind and mist, which came sweeping down from the mountain and through the valley. The labour line would get a large fire up and running, early morning, in the middle of the camp, and keep it going 24/7. This helped to warm the bones before we attempted breakfast. The best part of the day was from 1100 1300 hours, when we were blessed with crisp but sunny weather. As well, as the poor weather conditions, we were hampered by not having available, any machinery with which to haul the felled logs to the roadside and then for loading onto the sawmill truck. This was a big setback to what we were trying to achieve, but we managed to get all the materials that we had designated for collection, one way or another! As such, a whole ‘labour line’ of up to ten, loudly chanting locals (in traditional dress of ‘arse grass’), helped to fell, and then manually extract the logs from the forest, around the base of the mountain, and roll to the roadside. The logs then, had to be man handled up some skids onto the truck. There were also times when the whole ‘labour line’ did not show up for days, due to their penchant to go to local ‘sing sings’ that were, of course, more important than work! This at least, gave us some time to go through the large number of botanical collections that we had made, and to record, prepare and label for carriage back to the Lae Herbarium for final (species) determination.
Local Labour line clad in traditional ‘arse grass’ rolling sample logs from base of Mt. Giluwe down to roadside for loading onto sawmill truck. Photo credit Peter Eddowes.
We had pinpointed and identified as to what major timber species were to be collected. The species included, the conifers Libocedrus, Dacrydium, Podocarpus and Phyllocladus, and the non conifers Nothofagus, Schizomeria, Galbulimima, Elaeocarpus, Opocunonia and Syzygium. This amounted to over 50 logs from which there were to be cut into more than 250 large flitches for testing by CSIRO. The logs were converted at Mendi sawmill, dipped into an antifungal solution of ‘penta chlorphenate’ and wrapped individually in heavy duty plastic sleeve, and then wrapped in heavy duty tarpaper (Sisalcraft). Negotiations were then had with local transport companies for the cost of carriage of all materials back down to Lae to then await shipment to CSIRO in Melbourne. From memory, I was able to negotiate a good price of 2 pence per pound for the freight of the materials to Lae.
At the conclusion of this important expedition, we had been able to achieve our objective of identifying and making botanical and wood collections of the major occurring ‘conifers’ including that of Phyllocladus and Libocedrus, and the high altitude ‘non conifers’ of Syzygium and Elaeocarpus, the latter two species being of importance in being able to compare their properties with the lower altitude species upon subsequent testing by the CSIRO in Melbourne. As well, we now had a good coverage of Nothofagus species, complementing our earlier collections as made at Lufa in the Eastern Highlands.
“An extraordinarily successful expedition due to the input of all concerned including the local ‘arse grass’
Utilisation of wood materials: Part of all the materials collected during this period were also utilised back at FPRC for other research purposes. This included the development of kiln drying schedules for each of the species collected. The trials were undertaken in an ‘Intertherm’ drying kiln, as developed in association with the CSIRO. The work and the
establishment of each drying schedule, for each species, was undertaken and published by Col Stelmack and Rick Stokes. Other sawn material was used for ‘dip diffusion’ and pressure treatment trials as undertaken by Colin Levy and Kevin Garbutt, and for small marine wood borer sampling by Sue Rayner (Marine Biologist). As well, small (dressed) ‘hand’ samples were produced together with information labels, for trade fairs and promotion purposes.
The Research team at FPRC, under the leadership, of John Colwell, was an incredibly good unit. It included the late Jack Zieck (Minor Forest Products) who served with the former Dutch Government in Irian Jaya. Colin Levy and Kevin Garbutt oversaw the wood preservation section including the development, implementation, and monitoring, of the ‘dip diffusion’ method to treat ‘off the saw’ (green) timber, in conjunction with Harry Greaves (CSIRO). This was an early breakthrough in the preservation of PNG timbers and instilled confidence in the Public Works sector in the utilisation of the timbers. Both Des Harries and Gerry Vickers oversaw the development of Pulp and Paper trials, together with regular visits from Frank Phillips and Alan Logan from the CSIRO.
Acknowledgements: During this period in PNG (1961 1975), prior to Independence, I was privileged to have met and worked with a number of fellow expatriates in all fields of endeavour, and who were fully committed and dedicated to their work, and toward the development of PNG. We all had allocated tasks, and everyone carried out their duties studiously, and in the best interests of all concerned. These combined efforts were very much to the fore in the forest sector where we often had to rely on the Regional Forest Offices in the respective Districts, to assist and help plan, with internal travel arrangements, recruitment of labour lines and provisioning, especially as the only way of ‘contact’ during this period, was by telegraph mode.
Botany: I was actively involved with the Botany Division in Lae and made many visits to the Herbarium, to keep abreast of the botanical determinations as made from our field trips and expeditions. I worked with several Botanists that were actively engaged in the botanical nomenclature, and in the identification of the species that were collected for mechanical testing. Among these Botanists were, Paul Katik, Michael Galore, Don Foreman, David Frodin, Nigel Clunie, Mark Coode, Jim Croft, Ted Henty, and John Womersley. Sue Osborne was the very efficient Secretary for John Womersley and the Herbarium. Their assistance in the identification of the species from the botanical material that we had collected, was vital in establishing the authenticity for all species, and for the work being undertaken by the CSIRO, in the establishment of properties, for the major commercial timbers for PNG.
The late John Womersley. Botanist first Chief of Division of Botany. National Herbarium. Lae.
Photo credit Peter Eddowes.
I got on very well with all the botanical staff including John Womersley. John had a somewhat ‘questionable’ personality, in the eyes of some observers, but our work relationship was extraordinarily strong and most amicable. He achieved a lot in the formation of the National Herbarium, together with the late Jim McAdam (First Director of Forests).
Left to right. Andre’ Millar, Mark Coode & Peter Eddowes at Andre’s farewell party at the Lae Herbarium, prior to her move to the National University in Port Moresby to establish the botanic & orchid gardens. Photo credit Peter Eddowes.
Outside Support: As well as the support from the Division of Botany, we also relied heavily upon local sawmills to mill the wood samples, as collected in their area, for our ongoing research purposes, and in the cutting of the flitches of the collected (authentic) materials for consignment to the CSIRO in Melbourne. These old time saw millers included the likes of Jack Lindquist (Amplex / New Britain, Golden Pines / Bulolo, and Wau sawmills), Vince Sanders (Brown River), Bill McLellan (Lae), Jack Eustice (Oriomo), Ed Fitzgerald (Madang), Bert Counsel (Ihu / Gulf), Bill Bailey (Open Bay / New Britain), Simon Hirata (Stettin Bay / New Britain), Jack Thick (Lufa / Goroka), Don Neate (Woodlark Island), Ron Neville (Mendi), and the Stewardson brothers (Normanby Island/ Milne Bay). They were all, a great bunch of guys, obliging and very helpful.
The Social Scene: The social life in Port Moresby, in those early days was second to none, and we had some great times. It was far different to the life that I had known in Australia. We had everything at our disposal to enjoy ourselves, including golf, fishing, cricket, football, and party bar b q’s. In the early 60’s there was the Port Moresby ‘Beefsteak’ club, members of whom, were self confessed food and fine dining addicts. Meetings were held monthly at the old Port Moresby golf course out along Scratchley Road, Badili. It was well patronised with good quality food and fine dining, the preparation and cooking of which, was done by nominated Chefs (from the previous meeting) to cater for the night, as well as the appointment of a nominated Speaker to address the members on current World affairs.
Every Sunday morning, the popular ‘Saints’ band would thump out Jazz at the Port Moresby RSL on Ela Beach. Afterwards, one could then head on down to the local Rugby League ground at Boroko, to watch some serious matches between teams from Magani Badili, Paga Hill, DCA, Konedobu Tigers, Hawks and the resident Army. Fund raising by the clubs in those days, included the popular ‘Two up’ and the table games of ‘Crown & Anchor’ and ‘Odds & Evens.’ We also sold ‘Lucky Numbers’ on a Saturday morning at Koki market, and ‘Football doubles’ at the ground on Friday evenings, Saturday, and Sunday. Both my good friend Cliff Southwell (Kone Tigers) and I (Paga Hill) were serious but friendly rivals
Rugby League was profoundly serious stuff and with a ‘gladiatorial’ rivalry between all teams. There was also the annual clash between representative teams from Papua and New Guinea.
There was no shortage of spectators, as the fanatical (regional) fans would organise DC3 charters to either the respective venues of New Guinea e.g., Goroka or Lae, and then vice versa to Port Moresby. The Paga Hill club, with whom I played, had an alliance with the N.Q club of Milla Milla. We had bi annual charters for visits and matches to Milla Milla and vice versa. We would be billeted out, and then, on match day, get changed at the local pub in Milla Milla and then play on a freezing, rock hard cow paddock, with smatterings of fresh ‘cow pats.’ For those golf fanatics, charters (DC3) were arranged by the ‘Social Golf Club’, (Port Moresby) for visits to the golf centres of Bulolo, Popondetta, Lae and Goroka.
Public life: I was actively engaged in public life especially once I had settled in Port Moresby and started raising a young family. I was on the Board of Directors at the Korobosea International Primary School, serving one term as Director. Then as the President, and as a Coach of the Korobosea Junior Soccer Club. I also, became heavily engaged in the beautification of Port Moresby programmes, and together with Kevin White, Elliot Tuckwell, Andre Millar, and Lady Cleland, as a member of the organising committee for the annual Port Moresby Flower Show, and for the Independence celebrations in 1975. I also played Rugby League for the Paga Hill rugby league club, and later served as the nominated President of the club. I was later honoured in becoming a Life Member of the Club for services rendered, as both a player and committee man (1964 1972). I also played for ‘Boroko Colts’ in the Port Moresby cricket competition. In 1975, I was a member of the PNG organising committee for the hosting of the ‘Australian Timber Industries Stabilisation Conference’ (AUSTIS).
“I thoroughly enjoyed all my work in this particularly important period (1961 1975). As a small team, we were proud to be able to achieve our goals in the collection of materials, to determine both the physical and mechanical properties of the major timber species, often under difficult conditions. The dedicated ‘team’ of John Colwell, Greg McDonald, Barry Hartwell, Maru Kumul and Peter Eddowes, together with the members of the Division of Building Research at CSIRO, Melbourne, including Nora Bolza, Bob Ingle, Bill Keating et al, was responsible for establishing a true record for the properties and potential uses for the major commercial timber species of Papua New Guinea.”
