Raised in the West | Summer 2023

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THE BEAUTY OF THE BADLANDS

EQUINE BODY WORK

Kaycee Monnens Cortner

THE VIEW FROM A LOOKOUT

SUMMER 2023
Makoshika State Park
TOWER AUTHENTICALLY REAL
Tim Walker
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contents 38 24 44 SUMMER 2023 10 EQUINE BODY WORK A Day with Kaycee Monnens Cortner BY CYD HOEFLE 16 JEAN’S CUISINES BY JEAN PETERSEN 18 MONTANA SILVERSMITHS PROGRAMS Montana Silversmiths Celebrating 50 Years 20 FRIENDS PARTNER TO BUILD AN OASIS Bloom Coffeehouse & Eatery BY CYD HOEFLE 24 THE BEAUTY OF THE BADLANDS Makoshika State Park BY CYD HOEFLE 30 SOUTHEAST MONTANA Calling All Starry-Eyed Dreamers 32 THE VIEW FROM A LOOKOUT TOWER BY AMY GRISAK 38 FOR THE LOVE OF LABYRINTHS BY AMY GRISAK 44 AUTHENTICALLY REAL Tim Walker, Artist BY CYD HOEFLE 46 OUT & ABOUT COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN LEAGUE MAKOSHIKA STATE PARK GLENDIVE, MT CONTRIBUTED BY VISIT SOUTHEAST MONTANA 4 // www.raisedinthewest.com
maryann@sonnytoddrealestate.com Logan Todd 406.930.3673 Mary Ann Duffey 406.930.6607 logan@sonnytoddrealestate.com WE KNOW MONTANA. • 3rd Generation in the business • 5th Generation Montanans • Locally owned and operated • Full service real estate team • Serving you for over 30 years Whether buying or selling, Sonny Todd Real Estate is here for you. Call us today! © Sonny Todd Real Estate | www.sonnytoddrealestate.com | info@sonnytoddrealestate.com 301 W. 1st Ave., Suite C, PO Box 828, Big Timber, MT 59011 | 406.932.1031 SUMMER 2023 // 5

With every new agenda, crazy idea, and viral protest seemingly arising each day, division continues in our country and we feel ourselves becoming more like our parents and grandparents as we look back yearning for “the good old days.” It’s more important than ever to stand on truth but deciphering truth from fiction and genuine from artificial can be a challenge. That’s why we’re determined to keep our publication as authentic as possible. As we traverse the state, we are fortunate to cross paths with many genuinely authentic people, and we jump at the chance to feature these individuals in the pages of Raised in the West.

For example, Tim Walker, an amazing artist whose work is so lifelike it’s often mistaken for photographs. In this edition, he describes how he spends hours on each piece, working through the intricate details. Tim’s gift has contributed to his reputation as one of the up-and-coming hyperrealism artists in the area and we’re proud to show his work.

Wyoming woman, Kaycee Monnens Cortner shares her passion, a successful equine chiropractic business. Her keen eye allows her to analyze a horse and decipher any structural issues then work to address them through stretches and massage. She is every horse person's friend as she helps maintain the health of their animals.

Amy Grisak investigates the history of fire lookout towers and the structures’ essential role in the prevention of spreading forest fires. Technology has replaced the need for many towers, but those that remain offer unique hiking or even camping opportunities for the adventurous.

We learned the story behind the business at a delightful coffee shop, eatery, and wine bar located in an abandoned greenhouse in Glendive. It’s one of eastern Montana’s hidden gems of which the community is proud and tourists travel miles to visit.

While in Glendive, we went off the beaten path to tour Makoshika State Park – a region which has gone unchanged for millions of years. Dinosaur bones and fossils can still be found and though erosion and flash floods have altered some of the topography, much remains the same in the badlands, which serve as a beautiful reminder of our incredible creation.

Another little-known treasure, this one in the state’s center, which locals enjoy and proudly share with visitors is The Lewistown Labyrinth. The story illustrates its beauty and the opportunity it creates for relaxation and reflection when visitors take the time to wander the path of the flowering haven.

Finally, Jean Petersen submitted several recipes to utilize the last of the garden harvest and take on autumn’s bounty of apples.

We hope you’ve taken time this summer to enjoy our state’s beauty and if you haven’t, there’s still time to do so before the snows flies. Enjoy our latest issue of RITW and check out our website where back issues are all published in their entirety.

“Give careful thought to the paths for your feet and be steadfast in all your ways.”

Proverbs 4:26

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MELANIE FABRIZIUS, GRAPHIC DESIGN

Melanie was raised on a farm on the banks of the Clarks Fork River in Belfry. Her life-long love of art led her to a career as a freelance graphic designer. When she’s not busy working, Melanie enjoys being with family, spending time with her dogs, camping, ATVing, collecting rocks and watching the sunset. Check out her art at www.melaniefab. com and follow her on Instagram @melaniefabart.

KAYLA WALKER, WEBSITE DESIGN

Originating from a fifth-generation Montana ranch, Kayla has a real connection to the agriculture industry and the cherished western lifestyle. After several years as editor of Western Ag Reporter, she now ranches with her husband, Chace, and owns Ranch Raised Media which compliments the work they do on the land. Whether it be through photography, writing, social media, graphic design, or web design she strives to share the story of this way of life on a day-to-day basis. Follow Ranch Raised Media on Facebook and Instagram or visit www. ranchraisedmedia.com to view her work and check out daily Montana ranch life.

JEAN PETERSEN, WRITER

Jean is a cookbook and children’s picture book author, freelance writer and has been a weekly columnist with Western Ag Reporter for over 15 years. She and her husband live near the Beartooth Mountains in Red Lodge with their four children. Most days she can be found outdoors with her animals, on a hike, at her children’s activities, or cozying up writing and reading. You can find her at www.jeanpetersen.com

AMY GRISAK, WRITER/PHOTOGRAPHER

Great Falls writer, Amy Grisak balances her life between the mountains and the prairie looking for stories that catch her interest. This awardwinning author shares what she loves with readers, whether it’s finding gorgeous hikes in Glacier National Park or how to push the gardening envelope in our challenging Montana climate. Look for her book, “Nature Guide to Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks,” published by Falcon Guides and follow her at amygrisak.com

contributors
PUBLISHER CYD & STU HOEFLE 406-860-0292 publisher@raisedinthewest.com COPY EDITOR KAYLA WALKER ©2023 Peaks to Prairie Media. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. ADVERTISING CYD HOEFLE 406-860-0292 publisher@raisedinthewest.com DESIGN MELANIE FABRIZIUS ads@raisedinthewest.com ADDRESS RAISED IN THE WEST PO Box 80267 Billings, MT 59108 8 // www.raisedinthewest.com

THANK YOU MONTANA!

For 70 years, Stockman Bank has been serving Montana with the best in banking services, helping Montanans manage their money, achieve their financial goals and realize their dreams. As the largest family-owned, privately held, community bank in Montana, we remain committed to traditional, western values and homegrown community service.

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Body Work

MEETEESE, WYOMING WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTED BY KAYCEE MONNENS CORTNER 10 // www.raisedinthewest.com

Kaycee Monnens Cortner doesn’t remember life before horses, and she can’t imagine life without them now. She started riding as a two-year-old on her parents’ ranch, picking up a natural aptitude as she grew. Years later, she’s so in tune with horses she has made a career performing equine body work.

On a recent spring day, Kaycee assessed a mare at the LU Ranch, outside of Meeteetse, Wyoming, where she and her husband, Tobias live and work. The ranch crew had just finished gathering and branding calves, both tasks the mare helped complete. As rain pounded the barn roof, Kaycee worked her hands over the mare, telling her what the horse could not.

“She has a headache,” Kaycee said. “I can tell by looking in her eyes and watching how she’s moving.”

Gently massaging the area around the atlas vertebra, located right behind the horse’s ears, Kaycee explained how she first observes a horse as they walk, then feels with her hands.

“I can tell a lot about a horse both ways,” she said.

After some time, the mare lowered her head toward the ground.

“That tells me she’s feeling relief,” Kaycee said. “Just as we would stretch our neck to relieve pressure, she’s doing the same thing.”

Kaycee continued working across the mare’s sides and down her legs, stretching her legs out to the back, side, and front as the mare became more visibly relaxed with each move. Just as an athlete stretches after a workout, Kaycee said horses need similar treatment.

SUMMER 2023 // 11
• KAYCEE MONNENS CORTNER •
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“ Horses don’t just suddenly have bad attitudes or become lazy. THEY COULD BE IN PAIN... There are a lot of things to think about and we need to get to the root of the problem to fix it.”
12 // www.raisedinthewest.com
KAYCEE MONNENS CORTNER

“Some owners believe in turning them out to pasture after a hard workout, believing a break from work and time in the pasture cures all. But sometimes that’s not enough,” she explained.

Through her business, Outta Line Equine Bodywork, Kaycee has traveled across Montana, Wyoming and South Dakota working on ranch and rodeo horses and educating their owners on proper body care.

“Times have changed,” she said. “Horses cost a lot of money and today it’s even more important to properly care for them.”

In the late 80s, two men from Gillette pioneered horse bodywork. Bill Hackett was all cowboy and could easily read a horse and Buster Harlow was a massage therapist. The two met as Buster treated Bill whenever he “wrecked on a horse and needed to be put back together.”

Bill knew horses and Buster knew bodies, and an interesting collaboration was born.

“They had different ways of thinking,” Kaycee said of the two men. “Buster had the energy and massage, and Bill watched the horse’s movement and mechanics.”

Years later, when Kaycee was a teenager, she attended a South Dakota workshop taught by a student of the two men, Randy Hapney. Immediately, she knew equine bodywork was something she wanted to pursue, and she spent her high school years garnering massage knowledge. At age 20, she met Bill Hackett and came under his tutelage, hauling her horses to his ranch and continuing her education in bodywork as his apprentice.

“Bill was good for me,” she said. “He would make me show him what I knew and tell me whether it was good or not. He gave me the confidence to work on horses for the public.”

Throughout college, Kaycee found her niche at college rodeos, treating 10 to 14 horses every weekend for the competing athletes. As she gained more experience, she fine-tuned her abilities and began using a combination of techniques to not only read the horse, but to treat it.

“Some in my field have more of an eye for figuring out what the problem is,” Kaycee said. “Others have a feel for it. I like to combine the two.”

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And there is much to analyze beyond movement – much like whole wellness for humans, horses can exhibit health patterns.

“When I find a problem with a horse, I take a lot into consideration,” she said. “Horses don’t just suddenly have bad attitudes or become lazy. They could be in pain. What’s their nutrition like? How are their feet and teeth? There are a lot of things to think about and we need to get to the root of the problem to fix it.”

She involves other equine professionals, such as veterinarians, as needed if the problem is beyond her realm of treatment. Overall, Kaycee said continual maintenance of horses keeps them healthy. In addition to proper nutrition and exercise, flexibility and strength are important.

“If you’re using your horse a lot, you might want to consider bodywork,” she said. “My easiest clients are the ones that know their horses and can recognize a problem and do something about it quickly. It’s always easier to fix it sooner than later.”

Over the course of a year, Kaycee will treat hundreds of horses across the three states in which she works, spending much time behind the wheel.

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“I love what I do,” she said. “I have seen some of the most beautiful ranches in the country and met a lot of great people.”

These connections created in the ranching and equine industry are so cherished to Kaycee they spill into her other career as the assistant editor for Tri-State News –a role in which she feels blessed to work remotely.

“My editing job works well with my lifestyle, and I enjoy it immensely,” she said. “As for Outta Line Equine, I’d like to have an apprenticeship program someday. Hands on learning makes such a difference.”

For now, Kaycee’s taking a sabbatical from the bodywork as she and Tobias await the arrival of their first child. Entering the last trimester of her pregnancy, it’s necessary to protect herself and her baby, but she hopes to return to the work after the baby’s birth.

“I’ll make it all work somehow,” she said with a smile. “I don’t think my clients will let me quit and I wouldn’t want to anyway.”

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Jean’s C uisines

With the end of gardening season upon us, vegetables are almost done producing. Here’s several recipes to use up the last of the garden vegetables and to enjoy the autumn crop of apples.

STEAK KABOBS

• 2 lbs beef-(venison or elk) round steak cubed

• Red Onion

• White Onion

• Yellow, Red and Orange Peppers

• Zucchini

• Tomatoes

MARINADE Courtesy The Big Sky Bounty Cookbook

• ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

• 1 tsp red pepper flakes

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• ½ cup brown sugar

• ½ cup soy sauce

• ½ cup fresh lime juice

DIRECTIONS: Prepare marinade first. Heat butter over medium-high heat and add red pepper flakes until fragrant. Add garlic and saute for two minutes. Add brown sugar, soy sauce and lime juice. Bring to a boil and boil for three to four minutes or until thickened. Remove from heat and cool slightly. Set aside. Cut steak into 1-inch cubes, slice onion, peppers and zucchini into chunks, easy enough to slide through the skewer. Assemble the kabobs by alternating the vegetables and meat until the kabob skewer is full. In a shallow pan, layer the kabobs then drizzle the marinade over the top and let sit for 2-4 hours. Heat grill to medium high heat and place kabobs on until the meat is cooked and vegetables become slightly charred. Remove meat and veggies from kabobs.

GARDEN FRESH PASTA BAKE

• 4 cups cooked chicken breasts

• 2 tsp garlic cloves, minced

• 1 Tbsp onions, dried and minced

• Basil tear into bite size

• Spinach tear into bite size

• 12 ounces of Penne Pasta, prepared according to the package

• 12 ounce (1 ½ of 8oz containers) chive and onion cream cheese

• 1 ½ cups mozzarella cheese, shredded

• 1 ½ cups parmesan cheese, shredded

• Salt and pepper to taste

OPTIONAL:

• To change it up, add ½ cup other garden vegetables such as asparagus, mushrooms or zucchini

DIRECTIONS: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 9x12 baking dish. Wash garden vegetables, dry and set aside. Prepare pasta, drain and set aside. Combine cooked chicken, minced garlic and onions, salt and pepper, cream cheese, basil and spinach together in a bowl. Add pasta and ½ cup of the cheeses together and mix. Then spoon mixtures into the baking dish. Top with remaining cheeses. Bake for 30 minutes; 15 minutes covered and 15 minutes uncovered until it's bubbly.

LET'S EAT!

16 // www.raisedinthewest.com

MASON JAR APPLE CRISP

• 8 - 10 sterilized 4 oz Mason Jars

• 6-8 medium apples

• 2 Tbsp. lemon juice

• ¾ cup brown sugar

• ½ tsp vanilla

• 2 Tbsp cornstarch

• 1 tsp cinnamon

• ½ tsp ground nutmeg

• Pinch of Kosher salt

CRISP TOPPING:

• 1 cup light brown sugar

• 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

• ½ teaspoon cinnamon

• Sprinkle of nutmeg

• Pinch of kosher salt

• 1 stick unsalted butter, cold and diced

DIRECTIONS: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Wash, peel, core and dice apples into bite sized pieces. Place the apples into a large bowl and toss the remaining filling ingredients together. Set aside to let the flavors start to blend together while you prep the crumble. In a separate bowl, combine the ingredients for the crisp topping. Mix until it is clumpy in texture. Next, scoop the apple mixture into the mason jars and fill to the first lines of where the lid would go, sprinkle the crisp topping across the top, even with the top of the jar. Lightly press down if needed. Place mason jars on a baking sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the tops are golden brown or the apples are bubbling inside the jar. Contents will be hot, so cool slightly before serving with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

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After fifty years, it’s safe to say Montana Silversmiths has touched the lives of thousands. Heirloom belt buckles and jewelry are passed from one generation to the next while preserving “the story behind the buckle.”

Years ago, as Montana Silversmiths began to expand nationwide, it became imperative to give back to the people and businesses which contributed to the brand’s success and multiple programs

have since been launched to fulfill that need.

In 2005, the Pursuit of Excellence Scholarship program was established to encourage students to be the best version of themselves through continual personal growth and honor those who embody the idea. Through the sales of the “Montana Hat Feather,” annual scholarships are awarded to deserving young men and women with the heart to succeed. Recipients are high

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school and college students enrolled in an accredited two- or four-year college and to date, over 100 scholarships have been awarded.

“We like to say of our scholarship recipients that sometimes it’s not about being a champion, but having a champion’s heart,” Judy Wagner, Chief Marketing Officer, said. “Our programs set Montana Silversmiths apart as a leader in making a difference.”

The latest program launched by Montana Silversmiths is a campaign which will not only serve as a major scholarship fundraiser, but also a hat tip to the company’s milestone 50th Anniversary. Dubbed the “Big Diesel Truck Dream Giveaway,” participants will have a chance to win a 2023 fully-loaded Ram 3500 Laramie Diesel 4x4 Truck and continue financing the Pursuit of Excellence Scholarship program.

“The scholarships are an investment in candidates who have a history of self-improvement and a desire to better themselves and their communities,” Judy explained. “We celebrate the student who is working toward bettering who they are and how they can contribute. This campaign will go a long way toward scholarships

for those students.”

With the purchase of a ticket, participants earn the chance to become the lucky winner of a $100,000 truck, while also donating to the “Pursuit of Excellence” program.

“We are immensely proud of the unique programs we have created that support our customers and our communities,” Judy said. “We’re also very proud of all the winners of our scholarships as they continue their pursuit of excellence.” FOR

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partner to build an asis O

bloom coffeehouse

A eatery Bloom and Vine

Lisa Swanson’s husband, Scott, always told her if they ever returned to Glendive, they were going to buy the local greenhouse – the one he grew up across the street from and the one which first employed him. Years later, his dream came to fruition, but it was Lisa that turned it into the business that it is today.

“When the business came up for sale, we jumped on it,” Lisa started.

The greenhouse was one of the first ones built in Montana, dating back to 1917. It is said that the business’s reputation even caught the attention of Teddy Roosevelt who made a visit from his North Dakota residence.

“It was the only greenhouse in Glendive for years,” Lisa explained. “But when we bought it, I always thought it would be cool to have coffee inside.”

Located in a residential neighborhood a block off Main Street, the Swansons operated the greenhouse while maintaining full time jobs, leaving little time or energy to manage a coffee shop too. Determined to fulfill her vision, Lisa approached several

individuals with a coffee shop proposal, including her friend Terri Carney.

Terri is also a Glendive native who left home when she was 18 and spent the next 25 years as a volunteer in overseas humanitarian work. Upon returning to Glendive, she worked for a judge in the judicial district court.

“Every time Lisa came to me, the timing wasn’t right,” Terri said. “She wanted to open a coffee shop, but when I’d look at the greenhouse, I’d laugh and tell her, ‘I don’t see your vision.’”

The third time must have been the charm as Terri finally agreed to become Lisa’s partner.

“I told her, ‘fine, I’ll be your partner, but only if we open a wine bar, too,’” Terri noted.

Balancing their friendship and their families which include nine children between the two, Terri and Lisa have grown their coffee shop to a successful eatery and evening wine bar in just five years. Today, the business is one of Glendive’s hidden treasures.

GLENDIVE
•••••
••••••••••••••
MONTANA WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY STU HOEFLE
THE ••••• greenhouse
WAS ONE OF THE • first ones bui Lt in Montana, DATING BACK TO 1917.
20 // www.raisedinthewest.com

asis

“It’s taken a lot of work,” Lisa said. “We went through COVID and remodeling both. Finally, we decided to quit the greenhouse business and concentrate on the eatery, and things started coming together.”

The greenhouse concept remains at the forefront of the dining experience, contributing largely to their success. In the dead of winter when the temperature hovers close to zero and the snow flies, inside the greenhouse, the balmy temperature and tropical plants allow customers to escape the harsh Montana winter and enjoy a moment of peace. Barn wood and tin throughout the store front create a welcoming atmosphere and comfortable seating invites patrons to stay awhile.

“What we love, we also hate,” Lisa said. “The temperature in a greenhouse gets very warm in the summer and we don’t have air conditioning, so we had to come up with a way to expand outdoors and keep our clientele coming.”

What was once a neighborhood eyesore overrun with weeds and long-forgotten junk became a solution to their summer heat problem. Working with a local landscaper, the partners converted a junkyard behind the building into an incredible, green courtyard. A groomed grass center is circled by pea sized gravel and an attractive privacy fence, all flanked by trees, shrubs, and ornamental grasses. Patrons can choose to enjoy their beverages or meal at one of the intimate tables scattered

throughout the courtyard or lounge in the outdoor furniture shaded by large umbrellas. A corner stage hosts live music during summer wine evenings, adding another element to the relaxing vibe.

The energy and drive of both women is evident. During the morning rush, loyal customers drop by to grab their favorite coffee and as lunch approaches, fresh salads and sandwiches are served to their dedicated diners.

“We’re really the only establishment in Glendive like this,” Terri said. “It’s a great place for our community to come.”

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SUMMER 2023 // 21
22 // www.raisedinthewest.com
HEATHER NEWPORT, MANAGER & JAELIN JIMISON, BARISTA

Their success wasn’t achieved free of hardships, though. Remodeling an ancient building takes time, and money, and the wine and beer licensing process took almost a year.

“We came so close to giving up on our dream so many times,” Lisa said. “But we persevered even when the battle was completely uphill.”

Prepping for the evening specials offered exclusively on Thursdays and Fridays, the two reflected on the path that led them to where they are today.

“We enjoy what we do for sure,” Terri said. “This has been a good fit for both of us.”

As temperatures drop and fall nears, the soft glow of lights strung across the fence transforms the courtyard ambience. With cooler evenings comes the chance to light the fire pit and sip a wine cocktail or a spiced hot drink while enjoying the open flame.

“We try to change things up to keep our customers coming back,” Lisa said.

Their efforts not only keep the locals returning but draw in a wide variety of visitors. On a summer afternoon, over half the cars parked out front were from out of town and many from out of state.

Looking ahead, the partners hope to expand a wine bar into another greenhouse but know it will be an uphill battle to make it happen.

“Because it’s a wine license, it has to go through legislation, and there’s a lot of work too, but we’re going to keep fighting for it,” Lisa said. “I’m the visionary, but Terri keeps us in line.”

“Lisa’s the gas, I’m the brake,” Terri laughed. “But together we make it happen.”

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SUMMER 2023 // 23
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DAWSON COUNTY MONTANA
24 // www.raisedinthewest.com
WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY STU HOEFLE

the beauty of the

Makoshika State Park

Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks, Montana’s most popular National Parks with over 6 million combined annual visitors, are generally avoided by Montana and Wyoming locals during tourist season. Those who live within a day’s drive of the two parks likely choose to avoid bumper to bumper traffic and overcrowding just to catch a glimpse of the geological marvels and wildlife the worldly attractions offer. It’s best to wait until the crowds subside.

On a more manageable scale, offering beauty which parallels the national parks, over 50 state parks are scattered across Montana for residents and tourists alike to enjoy. From the Lewis and Clark Caverns to the Tongue River Reservoir, Montana’s parks offer a wide variety of recreation opportunities.

One of those treasures is on the far eastern side of the state, less than 50 miles from the North Dakota border. Just a few minutes off Interstate 94, solitude and an immersion in nature and history can be easily appreciated at Makoshika State Park.

“We’ve had a very wet June with thunderstorms almost every afternoon,” he said. “The locals claim the last two years it’s been greener than it has been for a long time.”

With the abundant rainfall Montana experienced this spring, much of the countryside flourished with green grass and flowing rivers and streams. Makoshika received more than 100 percent of its average rainfall by July 1. Knee-high grasses along the park trails and new growth sprouting among the cedar bushes, pine trees and sagebrush, made it hard to envision the prehistoric scene when dinosaurs roamed the area. The sediments of the badlands, primarily the Hell Creek Formation, are 65 million years old and a hotbed for fossils and dinosaur bones.

Makoshika

(MA-KO’-SHI-KAH)

IS DERIVED FROM THE LAKOTA WORD “MACO SICA,” MEANING BADLANDS OR LAND OF BAD SPIRITS, ENCOMPASSES ALMOST 12,000 ACRES AND IS A SHORT DRIVE THROUGH RESIDENTIAL GLENDIVE.

In June thick sweet clover hugs the sides of the road and lush native grasses and wildflowers cover the hillsides. The pavement’s end at the top of the switchbacks offers an endless panoramic view of the badlands. Pine trees and sagebrush dot the lush prairie as the dirt road continues and the striking lush spring vegetation offers bold contrast from the stark, light gray, barren slopes of Eastern Montana’s infamous badland topography. Riley Bell, Recreational Manager of the park, confidently noted that the vegetation would change, but the view would always remain, just as it has for millions of years.

Makoshika (Ma-ko’-shi-kah), which is derived from the Lakota word “maco sica,” meaning badlands or land of bad spirits, encompasses almost 12,000 acres and is a short drive through residential Glendive. The park features sandstone and shale columns, rock formations called caprocks or hoodoos, coulees, and spires created by erosion over the course of thousands of years.

In the late 1800s, local settlers and homesteaders hoped to preserve the beauty of the badlands and advocated for the area to become a park. Several proposals were pushed forward to declare the area a National Park, but the federal government failed to recognize it as such.

In 1939, Catherine McCarty, a descendant of some of the region’s first homesteaders donated a tract of land to Dawson County with

SUMMER 2023 // 25

Fun Facts

• IT’S SAID THAT IN 1889, A RESEARCHER RODE HIS HORSE THROUGH THE MAKOSHIKA BADLANDS AND RECORDED 500 TRICERATOPS SKULLS.

• THE HELL CREEK FORMATION IS SAID TO BE ONE OF THE RICHEST CACHES OF DINOSAUR BONES AND FOSSILS ON THE PLANET.

Ref: https://www.alltrails.com/parks/us/montana/makoshika-state-park

• WILLIAM CLARK REFERRED TO THE PARK IN HIS JOURNAL AS “BIRNT HILLS,” IN HIS DESCRIPTION OF THE AREA IN WHICH HE AND HIS PARTY CAMPED ON THEIR RETURN TRIP DOWN THE YELLOWSTONE.

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the provision that it be preserved. Her actions were the start of the continued accumulation of land through donations by the city of Glendive, Dawson County, the Bureau of Land Management, and other private landowners.

Today, Makoshika is Montana’s largest state park and hosts over 100,000 visitors each year. In the long-empty footprints of dinosaurs, current visitors can experience over forty species of birds as their songs filter through the crisp, clean air. With little vegetation, wildlife is scarce, though mountain lions and mule deer do frequent the area. Given the park’s vastness, daily traffic is relatively quiet as travelers disappear onto the numerous hiking trails and camping locations.

Off one of the beaten paths, where the Twin Sisters formation watches over the valley, an amphitheater is set into a hillside. Used for park programs and open to the community, the venue has become a favorite for weddings and is booked nearly every summer weekend. With space for hundreds of guests, even a full amphitheater doesn’t interfere with other park activities.

“There’s plenty of room to stretch out and plenty to see,” Riley said with a laugh.

Riley has been the park’s manager for the past year and a half, after having worked in other Montana parks including the Missouri Headwaters and White Sulphur Springs.

“Makoshika is definitely unlike any of the other state parks,” he said. “But you do have to see it to really appreciate it.”

Riley manages Makoshika with three full time employees and several seasonal workers. One of the seasonal workers,

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RILEY BELL, RECREATIONAL MANAGER OF THE PARK

JULIA CRIGHTON, SEASONAL WORKER

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Julia Crighton, a Dawson Community College student who was born and raised in Glendive, has been visiting the park her entire life and has worked in the visitor’s center for three years.

“This is my happy place,” Julia said with a smile. “I’ve driven or hiked every trail with my dog, and my family has camped here for years.”

Julia believes in the preservation of history and values the many educational opportunities available to guests, including a weekly program offered by a paleontologist intern exploring fossil hunting through a workshop and a hike.

“We like to engage our guests in as many ways as possible,” she continued. “And there’s a lot to take in here.”

Though fossils cannot be removed by guests, nor can they partake in digging, The Museum of the Rockies is permitted to harvest them. Through the partnership, multiple fossils and dinosaur bones have been located and cataloged, with some of the most significant finds on display at the visitor’s center including a Triceratops skull and a replica of a Tyrannosaurus Rex. A total of ten species of dinosaurs have been unearthed in Makoshika. Riley says it’s a win-win relationship with the Museum as they frequently exchange fossils and bones creating an evolving and interesting exhibit in the visitor’s center.

More recently, a new find was discovered as workers repaired a sinkhole caused by flash flooding. Three buffalo skulls, a large one and two small ones, were exposed during the repair of the paved road.

The two quickly added that although snakes are often seen, there has been only one snake bite in recent years at the park. Hikers are warned to be aware, but unlike many parks which aim to keep travelers sequestered to marked trails, Riley encourages visitors to wander off the path and explore all the park has to offer.

“It’s a beautiful area,” he concluded. “We’re very proud of our park, the history, and the beauty. Plus, we’re accessible year-round. We’re here to share it with others.”

Leave the road, take the trails. Discover GLENDIVE Montana GLENDIVE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & VISITOR CENTER 808 N MERRILL AVE | GLENDIVE, MT VISITGLENDIVE www. .com FOR MORE INFORMATION ★★★★★★ VISIT★★★★★★ https://fwp.mt.gov/stateparks/ makoshika SUMMER 2023 // 29

CALLING ALL STARRY-EYED DREAMERS!

The stars are brighter out here in Southeastern Montana, where the darkest skies make for an unforgettable nighttime show. In fact, Medicine Rocks State Park has been designated as an International Dark Sky Sanctuary, meaning it has the darkest of the dark skies. The park is nestled between Ekalaka and Baker in Eastern Montana. It’s your perfect place to get away and lose yourself in the wonder of the cosmos.

Our Trail to the Stars consists of 46 places in eastern and central Montana that are ideal for stargazing. Some are just on the outskirts of a town, while others are delightfully rural—just you and an explosion of stars and planets. And, if you plan your visit with our star calendar, you might even see an awe-inspiring meteor shower, or the hauntingly gorgeous northern lights.

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TIMING

Stargazing is a great family activity year-round. The best time to stargaze is just before, during or after a new moon when the sky is at its darkest due to lack of moonlight. Those darker skies mean you’ll see more stars and possibly even the Milky Way. Serious astronomers prefer the spring and autumn because it gets darker sooner and the nights are longer. Be sure to check the forecast before you head out because clouds could limit your view.

CAN’T MISS SPOTS

In addition to Medicine Rocks State Park, consider Makoshika State Park, near Glendive, for its stunning nighttime views. While there, check out programs at the park, including seasonal full-moon hikes. You can also find stellar views at the Terry Badlands Overlook. Closer to Billings, try the Acton Recreation Area.

For a complete list of locations and downloadable map, go to trailtothestars.com

PACKING LIST

We have a few suggestions for additional items that will enhance your night-sky viewing experience.

➤ A red-light flashlight - a low intensity red or green light allows your eyes to adjust faster to the darkness than with a typical white-light flashlight.

➤ Binoculars - with so much to see, you’ll want to get the best view possible.

➤ Warm clothes - even in the summer, Montana can get chilly at night. Plan on bringing layers to be the most comfortable.

➤ A comfy camp chair or blanket to lie on - you may want to stay a while.

While the best stargazing is found in our most rural spots, you’ll find Montana hospitality and affordable lodging waiting for you in nearby towns. And for a tasty meal with some real Montana flavor, check out our Southeast Montana Burger Trail southeastmontana.com/burgertrail.

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Photos - Left: Terry Badlands Night Sky by Kevin League, Top Right: Medicine Rocks Night Sky by Nathan Satran, Bottom Left: Acton Recreation Area by Ian Hanson, Bottom Right: Rosebud County Night by Alexis Bonogofsky

THE VIEW FROM A LookoutTower

ACROSS MONTANA WRITTEN BY AMY GRISAK // PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY GRISAK, SAMSARA DUFFEY AND CONTRIBUTED BY THE FOREST SERVICE (CIRCA 1920S)
FOREST SERVICE RANGERS ON FIRE PATROL 32 // www.raisedinthewest.com

“You have got to be kidding,” my friend said hoping, as we rounded the corner, that the trail was ending and realizing that it continued.

A four-mile hike with a 3,100-foot elevation gain to Scalplock Lookout in Glacier National Park can be one of endurance and maybe even some pain, but it is one of beauty.

The views of the Great Bear Wilderness to the east and St. Nicholas Peak offered a well-earned breather for the tired hikers. Although visited less frequently, the southern region of Glacier, stretching toward Two Medicine Valley, offers unlimited hiking opportunities and the views are ever changing.

The Paola Ridge Fire, which burned in 2018, altered the landscape and serves as a stark reminder as to why the fire lookouts exist. Fire has always been an integral component of the Western ecosystem, but the 1910 season issued a harsh wake-up call for logging communities and the newly formed Forest Service.

After three consecutive years of drought, 1910’s fire season began with early snowmelt and warm conditions amplifying the dry cycle. The first known fire sparked in late April on the Blackfoot Reservation and the newly minted forest rangers, along with U.S. Army troops, did their best to stay on top of the blazes, often sparked by railroads and bustling loggers, but on August 20, hurricane force winds blew the forest into a searing hellscape. Flames hundreds of feet high devoured everything in

their path and within 36 hours, over 5,000 acres burned, decimating many small towns in its pathway.

A FOUR-MILE HIKE WITH A 3,100-FOOT ELEVATION GAIN TO SCALPLOCK

IN GLACIER NATIONAL PARK CAN BE ONE OF ENDURANCE AND MAYBE EVEN SOME PAIN, BUT IT IS ONE OF BEAUTY.

With a devastating loss of over 3,000,000 acres of timber and 85 lives, the federal agency recognized the need for a strategy to spot fires before they grew out of control and fire lookouts became their eyes on the forest. Initially, platforms latched to treetops in strategic areas sufficed, but it took a strong stomach to climb the rustic ladder rungs tacked onto the tree trunks to sit on the platform looking for smoke.

Understanding their importance in spotting a hot spot before embers burst into flames, construction of lookouts continued until Montana reached roughly 639 lookouts at its peak in the 1930s. When smoke was spotted, the Forest Service sent men bushwhacking for miles through the forest to locate and snuff out the flames. The “10 a.m. policy,” which aimed to extinguish any flames by 10 the morning after smoke was initially spotted, became the agency’s goal for decades.

After WWII, aircraft became a more efficient means of fire

LOOKOUT
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DRY CABIN FIRE, PHOTO BY SAMSARA DUFFEY

detection and one by one, the lookouts were either purposely burned, demolished, or left to rot. Today, there are closer to 130 lookouts remaining in the state, with approximately 40 staffed by employees or volunteers, and 26 in a rental program. Even with modern technology, lookout staff still prove valuable in protecting the forests. Scanning the landscape hour after hour, day after day, builds a familiarity and sharp eye trained to detect a smoldering tree perhaps even before a satellite picks up a puff of smoke.

Beyond their primary function as fire spotters, lookout staff serve as forest ambassadors with keen knowledge of the mountain ranges and history of the regions, along with information on the birds, flowers, and wildlife that keep them company throughout the season.

Samsara Duffey, who has staffed the Patrol Mountain Lookout outside of Augusta for a quarter of a century, fondly points to surrounding mountain ranges and describes them to visitors who find their way to her post. On her time off, Samsara hikes the nearby trails, usually making a multi-day trek exploring her summer home and visitors walk back down the mountain having learned much about the area from her shared experiences.

While visiting the Porphyry Lookout in the Little Belt Mountains of central Montana, expect the staff person to share a lesson on the function of the Osborne Fire Finder. Developed in 1911 by William Bushnell “Bush” Osborne, the disc features a topographic map of the region, along with a sighting mechanism which allows the lookout to accurately pinpoint the location of distant smoke. Even with the availability of modern technology, lookouts still know how to use the Osborne Fire Finder, and many are happy to teach visitors this simple, but effective, means of describing a fire’s location.

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FIRE PATROL DUTY IN THE CABINET MOUNTAINS

BEYOND THEIR PRIMARY FUNCTION AS FIRE SPOTTERS, LOOKOUT STAFF SERVE AS

FOREST AMBASSADORS

WITH KEEN KNOWLEDGE OF THE MOUNTAIN RANGES AND HISTORY OF THE REGIONS, ALONG WITH INFORMATION ON THE BIRDS, FLOWERS, AND WILDLIFE THAT KEEP THEM COMPANY THROUGHOUT THE SEASON.

LOCATING DISTANT FIRES IN CABINET MTNS MISSION LOOKOUT CIRCA 1920 SUMMER 2023 // 35
MISSION LOOKOUT TODAY EVENING AT WEST FORK BUTTE
PATROL MOUNTAIN LOOKOUT
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SAM GRISAK TAKES A LESSON USING THE FIRE FINDER

While hiking to a lookout makes for an exceptional day trip, rental lookouts allow visitors to camp out in the unique mountaintop perches. Montana is home to more lookout rentals than any other state and availability can be found by visiting recreation.gov. Most rentals are accessible via roads, but the notoriously narrow and winding logging trails may require fourwheel-drive to reach the destination. With the right vehicle and perhaps a chain saw in case of downed trees in the road, visitors can drive nearly to the door of many of the rentals.

RUSTIC ELEGANCE

The lookout rentals are typically equipped with a wood stove, and some even have a propane cook stove. Because the lookouts are situated in the high country, there’s typically no running water, so visitors are advised to pack in their needs, including a sleep system and cooking supplies. Although self-sufficiency is key, rental lookouts provide a comfortable way to camp and the views are beyond description.

Whether they’re the goal of a day’s hike or an overnight camp, lookouts provide much more than recreational opportunities. These sentinels of the forest have watched over the landscape for decades, if not beyond a century, and still offer visitors a chance to take in amazing views and a better understanding of the beautiful land surrounding them.

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• FOR YOUR •

for the love of

Tucked into the heart of Montana is a little-known gem called the Lewistown Community Labyrinth Garden. The flower-lined paths at the geographical center of the state, right in the middle of Lewistown beckon visitors to take a relaxing stroll. Roughly three decades ago, the idea was born as Lewistown resident Jean Cecil and her husband Bill created a small rock labyrinth near their home, which became a frequent stop for folks wishing to walk the circuit.

To help with the vision, in 1966, the City of Lewistown donated space in Frank Day Park and a coalition of flower-loving volunteers, including Jean, set to work on building a seven-circuit labyrinth for the entire region. The Lewistown Labyrinth Garden is more than a typical garden with arrangement of annuals and perennials, the winding rows have a depth that resonates with people on a variety of levels.

“Jean was a spiritual person and she saw the need for a labyrinth

in town,” Nadine Robertson, longtime coordinator and volunteer, explained.

For over 4,000 years, these oft circular patterns, around the world, mimic nature and have offered walking paths intended to promote inner reflection.

Reverend Dr. Lauren Artress, is considered by many to be the ‘godmother of the modern labyrinth movement.’ Dr. Artress founded Veriditas, a non-profit organization, in San Fransico, and is dedicated to the movement. Veriditas’ website has a worldwide map which includes the labyrinth in Lewistown. Her efforts mirror the efforts of the Lewistown volunteers.

"When our culture is in progressive chaos - or uncertainty - like we are entering now, the labyrinth quiets their minds,” she said.

A labyrinth is not a maze as the path leads directly to the center, then back out the same way, it is a structure which provides the

LEWISTOWN MONTANA WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMY
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feeling of safety, allowing those on its route to release and relax their minds. The process simply requires following the footpath and being in the moment. It’s within that liminal realm where deep spiritual and emotional work often occurs.

While there’s no right or wrong way to journey through a labyrinth, the “Three R’s” offer some direction. It starts with “releasing,” then “receiving” while sitting or standing in the center of the labyrinth for as long as needed, and finally “returning” by winding back to the beginning.

Dr. Artress explained that the first step, releasing, is perhaps the most important. “You really try to let go of expectations. It's like walking into the ocean for the first time. I call that ‘going in open.”

The Lewistown Labyrinth Garden offers that peace to visitors. Blossoms create an ever-changing palette, stretching 90-feet in diameter.

The project was no easy feat for volunteers who removed sod and installed at least one-half mile of black edging to create the pattern. Krings Greenhouse and Nursery donated many of the plants over the years, including annuals and perennials.

With over 50 varieties of perennials, the gardens continually change throughout the season. Early spring daffodils, bleeding hearts and lupine brighten the beds after the snow recedes, and are soon followed by irises, forget-me-nots, euphorbia, and peonies. In the summer, dahlias, delphiniums, and bee balm take center stage. For those who walk the path, every day is a new botanical experience. Over 30 volunteers tend to the garden.

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“People can adopt a row over the summer,” Nadine continued. “And two people to a row makes it so much easier.”

The lovely display was not achieved without challenges. For years, volunteers encased roughly 100 precious perennials with wire cages to deter deer from pruning them beyond recognition. A newly constructed black fence now encircles the labyrinth keeping them out.

"We had two local donations that paid for the fence,” Nadine said. “It took six people four days to put it up.”

Weather is also a constant concern. In early June, a hailstorm shredded the vibrant perennials in early bloom. Ample spring rain and warm temperatures gradually nursed the plants back to life.

Beyond botanical bounty, additions like an entryway peace pole and decorative concrete benches help set the tone and welcome individuals to cherish time spent in the garden. More than 600 engraved stone dedications, made from locally sourced and cut rocks, not only provide fundraising for the garden, but an ode to those who support the project.

Fundraising and donations support the garden, such as the one made by artist, Steve Lillegard of Standford. Steve donated “The Keeper of the Dreams, a life size bronze statute of a young girl watering the flowers and permanently tending the garden. He fashioned the girl in the likeness of his 14-year-old daughter at the time and brought her to life where she’s been placed at the beginning of the labyrinth.

Thanks to many volunteer hours, local donations, and a labor of love, the Lewistown Community Labyrinth Garden now draws locals to celebrate weddings and memorials, along with daily walks or quiet moments. It is a beautiful, sacred space meant for everyone to walk its circuitous path and recharge among the blooms.

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TIM WALKER, ARTIST

The adage, “a picture is worth a thousand words,” perfectly describes Tim Walker’s work. His black and white pictures are rich with contrast, depth, detail, and emotion – and he can capture it all in an image of anything from wildlife to people. Tim is not a photographer, he’s an artist, but his work is so realistic it’s often mistaken for a photograph.

“The highest compliment I ever receive is that someone thinks it’s a photograph,” Tim said of his drawings. “My goal is to reach hyperrealism.”

Tim began sketching as a young boy, recreating dinosaurs and saber tooth tigers from photos in his favorite book. Though never formally instructed, he’s always enjoyed drawing and in the past six years has turned his hobby into a business.

“I call myself ‘self-proclaimed,’” he said humbly. “It’s just been something I’ve done for as long as I remember.”

Tim spent his formative years in Big Timber where he graduated from high school before attending college to pursue a degree in

MONTANA WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTED BY TIM WALKER
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piano performance.

“I played classical by ear until I was a teenager,” he said. “I went to college for piano, but starting lessons so late in life, it took too long for me to learn.”

Though he still loves piano, drawing has always been his true artistic passion. Honing that passion, his work elevated to a new level as he discovered the vast world of art tools.

“It was a pinnacle moment for me,” he said. “I went from charcoal sticks to pencils that are so fine they can only be sharpened with an exacto blade.”

Using such tools, Tim has fine-tuned the details in each drawing, exposing faint features in his subjects through shadows and light. Using a blend of charcoal and graphite pencils, he captures the finest elements, from the lines on the weathered face of a cowboy to the delicate tendrils of hair on a baby’s head. A drawing of a bull elk, his head lifted, his massive rack tilted back, and his nostrils flared, captures the dominance of the majestic animal. A swan, quietly resting with her long, graceful neck tucked into her soft, downy body stands out against a dark night as the moon casts a subtle reflection displaying peace and tranquility in the scene.

“It’s the details that set me apart,” he said.

Tim’s drawings are all modeled after actual photographs and though not a photographer himself, he has great appreciation for those whose images are artistic and candid. A high-resolution photo makes his task of recreating detail easier. Placed side by side it takes close examination to differentiate Tim’s drawing and the actual photograph.

“Posed photos are hard to capture emotion,” he explained. “I love drawing from a photo that allows me the opportunity to pull out the subtle details.”

He has drawn African wildlife such as elephants and tigers and

animals more common to Montana like buffalo and grizzlies. His subjects range from rodeo competitors to Native Americans to an elderly person, whose wrinkled hands share the keyboard of a piano with a child’s. Another drawing of a young ranch girl astride her horse, her short legs outstretched as she kicks her horse into a canter, leaves the viewer with a smile. Many of his commissioned works are of pets, as he is adept at showing the character of the animals in his art.

“I capture the personality of the pet through their eyes. The patterns I draw in their eyes gives them depth,” he explained. “I especially enjoy commissioning a pet that is no longer alive as they become cherished pieces.”

SUMMER 2023 // 43
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He has garnered exposure and advertising mainly on social media, connecting with clients who share images of people, pets, or wildlife to become their next wall hanging through Tim’s hand. When time allows, he seeks out photographs for inspiration and at times, his originals have sold within hours of posting them online. Several photographers have featured Tim’s drawings while promoting their own work and consider it a compliment that he uses their photos.

“I always give credit to the photographer,” he said. “If not for them, I wouldn’t have subjects.”

He recently finished a drawing of celebrity Sadie Robertson holding her daughter in her arms.

“I really liked how it turned out,” he said.

The work of art, like each piece, starts as a blank sheet of Bristol paper first marked with a measured grid, then outlined with the subject, which eventually comes to life as he adds intricate details. None of his work is computer enhanced. Tim often shares “work in progress” posts on his Facebook page, walking his followers through the process and assuring his work is completely authentic.

While he is first known for his drawing talent, Tim still plays exquisite piano pieces, and, creative in many facets, just published his first novel, “Torn” and recently completed the sequel between work on commissioned art.

“It’s that right brain coming out in me,” he said modestly. “Sometimes it’s overactive. It would be an utter blessing to survive solely on my art and maybe that day will come for me.”

SUMMER 2023 // 45
/TimWalker

OUT ABOUT

CRISS CROSSING THE REGION

A FOGGY DAY ON THE BEARTOOTH HIGHWAY MOUNTAIN RUNOFF LATE MAY
RED CANYON, LANDER WYOMING EASTERN MONTANA RAINBOW
MAKOSHIKA SUNSET
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