Raised in the West | Spring 2021

THE HOME OF CHAMPIONS RODEO

Written by Cyd Hoefle

JEAN’S CUISINES

Written by Jean Petersen

36

ART OF THE COWGIRL

Written by Cyd Hoefle

OUT & ABOUT 42

DINNER IS BACK ON THE RAIL

Written by Charlie Denison

GOOD GARDENS START WITH THE DIRT

Written by Amy Grisak

RANCHING, FAMILY, SHEEP & TRADITION

Written by Cyd Hoefle

WORLD FAMOUS MILES CITY BUCKING HORSE SALE

Written by Cyd Hoefle

JOHN COLTER’S MARK

Written by Dave Vickery

US!

COVER DESIGN BY MELANIE FABRIZIUS

note from the publisher

The phrase, “Back in the Saddle,” means to return to something after an absence from doing it; to try again after failing, or to go back to something that is familiar.

Nothing was simple about the last year. No one escaped being “bucked off…” But how we handled it, and continue to handle it, determines how we face the future. Montanans are ready to get back to what they are familiar with, to return to traditions that have previously stood the test of time and to rise up and start living again…“back in the saddle.”

Without planning it, as the stories in this issue unfolded, it seemed the common theme among them was traditions. We found great stories of families and communities working hard to maintain and hang on to their identities so deeply rooted in the western way of life.

Two of many incredible events that Montana hosts during the spring and summer months are The Miles City Bucking Horse Sale and the Red Lodge Rodeo, dating back 70 and 90 years, respectively. Last year when everything stopped in its tracks, both communities decided to hang on to their heritage and do whatever it would take to get the events back on the calendar and make them bigger and better than before. A tall order for sure. Committee members and hundreds of volunteers worked tirelessly for months to be able to offer to the public a safe, memorable event. For timeless entertainment and a real flavor of small-town culture in Montana, mark your calendars for both.

Art of the Cowgirl is also rich in western traditions. In fact, the

objective of the organization is to hang on to them, nurture them and pass them along. From art, agriculture and horsemanship, masters do a phenomenal job of taking the time to pass on their talents to other women. These women will impress you.

To the Halverson Family, whose roots in the sheep industry run six generations deep, traditions are a long-established expectation. It’s just what they do, the older teaching and passing on to the younger. With four generations living on the ranch, their story will inspire you.

Our “Dusting off History,” is a story about John Colter and his time spent in our region. Colter is truly an example of a tough and adventurous spirit, something we all still have in our hearts today.

As rapidly as our world seems to be changing right now, it’s imperative that we hang on to the values, morals and heritage that has made our great region what it is. We are a strong people, in part because of the ones that came before us, taught us, fought for us, and prayed for us. Let us be strong enough to do the same for the next generation.

“Show yourself in all respects to be a model of good works, and in your teaching show integrity and dignity.” Titus 2:7

MELANIE FABRIZIUS

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Melanie was raised on a farm on the banks of the Clarks Fork River in Belfry. Her life-long love of art led her to a career as a freelance graphic designer. When she’s not busy working, Melanie enjoys being with family, spending time with her dogs, camping, ATVing, collecting rocks and watching the sunset. Check out her art at www.melaniefab.com and follow her on Instagram @melaniefabart.

JEAN PETERSEN

WRITER

Jean is a cookbook and children’s picture book author, freelance writer and weekly columnist with Western Ag Reporter for over 15 years. She and her husband live near the Beartooth Mountains in Red Lodge with their four children. Most days she can be found outdoors with her animals or on a hike, at her children’s activities, or cozying up writing and reading. You can find her at www.jeanpetersen.com

AMY GRISAK

WRITER

Amy Grisak balances her life between the mountains and the prairie looking for stories that catch her interest. This awardwinning writer shares what she loves with readers, whether it's finding gorgeous hikes in Glacier National Park or how to push the gardening envelope in our challenging Montana climate. Her two sons, Samuel and John, are her sidekicks in the field, and her husband, Grant, raises honey bees to assist in the effort. You can follow Amy's endeavors on her website, amygrisak.com.

CHARLIE DENISON

WRITER

Charlie Denison is a freelance writer, singer/songwriter and award-winning Montana journalist. He lives in Lewistown, where he works as Train Coordinator for the Lewistown Area Chamber of Commerce. His stories have been featured in "Chicken Soup for the Soul," "Montana Quarterly," "Rural Montana" and other publications.

DAVE VICKERY

WRITER

Born and raised in the mountain foothills of Montana, Dave, early in life, learned an abiding love of wild places. Descended from a pioneer family with deep roots in the early west, he wandered the broad reaches of Big Sky Country as a young man. He has lived and worked in Alaska and Idaho as well as his native Montana.

A book author and freelance writer, his work has appeared in national and regional publications. Currently he lives in a quiet rural setting with his wife of 51 years and enjoys, in order, grandchildren and the outdoors.

COLLEEN KILBANE

PHOTOGRAPHER

Colleen spent her summers at her family’s guest ranch near Nye, Montana where the Beartooth Mountains, the animals that inhabit the region, and the western way of life made an early impression and have always inspired her. Her favorite subjects are rodeo and landscape. Colleen was given her first camera at age 8 and today is continually honing her skills by attending several workshops a year. “You can never stop learning,” Colleen says. She and husband, Jim, live in Red Lodge with several dogs, cats and horses.

ROBIN BLANKENSHIP

PHOTOGRAPHER

___________________________________

Robin was born and raised in North Dakota and has always had a gift with the camera. She loves shooting inside the arena, especially broncs. These days she can be found chasing sunrises and sunsets with the people she loves, her children, her grandkids and her sweetheart, Justin. The camera is just an extension of the gift that God has given her, to see and capture the beauty in all things.

WOODY SMITH

PHOTOGRAPHER

Brent “Woody” Smith grew up in Miles City and is the owner/ operator of BSPhotography. He is passionate about subjects including senior and family portraits, rodeos, sports, wildlife and landscape. For the past 8 years, he has taken shots of the Miles City Bucking Horse Sale. He gained more knowledge from his now friends, Ron Madra, retired Sports Illustrated photographer and Ron Dunn, musician and photographer. In his spare time, Woody loves capturing moments with his camera, spending time with family, hunting with his boys or just hanging out with people. Follow him on fb at BS Photography.

STU HOEFLE

JACK OF ALL TRADES

Stu is a photographer, editor, and title twister. He’s also an encourager, entertainer and travel partner. He helps with story lines, asks great questions, and looks at every angle. When he’s not helping with the magazine, he’s helping someone else. He can be found with a fishing rod, a camera or a packed bag and promises, or threatens that he’s going to disappear someday to a sandy beach with a grass hut, an endless river or a mountain top…he won’t say which.

As parents-to-be, you have a lot of expectations. It’s all brand new. And, you want to experience it in your own way. That’s why at St. Vincent Healthcare, we provide customized birth plans for families across southern Montana. More choices tailored to you. So, when your baby arrives, that moment will feel personal, special, and beyond your expectations.

Find a doctor at svh.org/baby

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLLEEN KILBANE

RED LODGE MONTANA

When the chutes finally open during the Home of Champions Rodeo over the Fourth of July weekend, it will be a huge celebration. After a year’s absence, everyone in the rodeo community is more than ready to “let ’er buck.”

“We’ve worked hard to make this year’s return one of our best,” Shari DeSaveur, marketing director for the Red Lodge Rodeo, said. “We have an amazing community that has come together to keep it going because everyone loves the rodeo.”

The Home of Champions Rodeo is just one of many that are making a comeback after being cancelled last year, many for the first time in their history. For Red Lodge, it was the first cancellation in over 90 years.

The rodeo dates back to 1929, when a group of local cowboys built an arena, gathered up a bunch of untamed horses, invited the town and charged an admission. The rodeo was a success. So, they tried it again the following year and the Red Lodge Rodeo Association was formed. In 1932, the association purchased 180 acres and began work on an arena and grandstands on the site where they remain today.

The Red Lodge area has been home to many legendary rodeo

champions starting with Bill Linderman, who began stacking up world titles in 1943, earning three of them in 10 years. It was then that the rodeo association changed its name to Red Lodge Home of Champions Rodeo, and it has been called that since.

The rodeo grounds are located on top of a bench overlooking the town, giving spectators an amazing view of the surrounding mountains. In mid-summer, the grounds, at over 5,500 feet in elevation, are high enough to be cooled by a slight mountain breeze, giving comfort to fans and contestants alike. Folks have been coming from around the world to take part in the threeday event, which includes not only a daily rodeo, but parades and celebrations all over town.

The days surrounding the Fourth of July In Montana and Wyoming are filled with rodeos and what has been dubbed, “Cowboy Christmas.” It’s an opportunity for rodeo athletes to make a lot of money and gather a lot of points in a short time. Many of the Red Lodge rodeo contestants will also try to attend the Livingston Roundup Rodeo and the Cody Stampede, two other rodeos near enough that contestants can at least participate in one other before the weekend is over. Some of the cowboys will even rope or ride in two rodeos on the same day.

RED LODGE IS “READY TO RELOAD” THE CHUTES

“We’ve worked hard to make this year’s return one of our best. We have an amazing community that has come together to keep it going because everyone loves the rodeo.”

—SHARI DESAVEUR

The nearby airport makes that possible, at least for the athletes who don’t have to worry about hauling their horses. The airport runway is parallel to the Red Lodge rodeo grounds, and it is not uncommon to see a small plane unload a couple of cowboys and their riggings, who then race across the runway to the arena, ride in their event, climb back on board and head to another rodeo. Fans cheer as the chartered planes take off, giving them an unexpected insight into the lives of the cowboys as they rush to make another rodeo.

Often during the days of the rodeo, one can expect to encounter contestants who can’t afford to fly, or who need to haul their horses to compete in their events, driving on Highway 212 south to Cody, or north to hit I-90 for Livingston. Pulling a loaded horse trailer, they’ll be racing against time to make another rodeo before the weekend is over. It’s an exciting time for contestants and fans alike.

Red Lodge consistently attracts many of

the top contestants in the rodeo world, and fans can expect the best of the best competing. Also returning to the arena this year will be announcer Doug Mathis, who has been with the rodeo for the past 15 years, and bullfighter, clown and entertainer, Whistle-Nut, and his pet bull, Ole.

Whistle-Nut has a reputation for engaging the crowd. He banters back and forth not only with the announcer, but members of the audience. He and Ole offer up an incredible performance and lots of laughs.

“Both Doug and Whistle-Nut love Montana, and the Red Lodge Rodeo,” Shari explained. “Doug comes up a few days early to make sure everything is right in line with his expectations and Whistle-Nut and Ole have been with us for years, too. The crowd loves both of them.”

Another notable aspect of the Home

of Champions Rodeo is the enthusiasm of the crowd, especially those in the arena’s north-end bleacher. For decades, a selfproclaimed group of enthusiastic fans cheer on the cowboys that miss their loop, get bucked off or have an overall disappointing performance. “Ohhhhhhhh Sh….t!” they yell out, acknowledging how the contestant must feel. Both Mathis and Whistle-Nut have been known to capitalize on their enthusiasm and join in the fun.

This year, the rodeo committee expects a sold-out crowd with fans anxious for things to get back to normal and enjoy a few days of professional rodeo, great concessions and few cold beverages.

The fast pace of the rodeo keeps the crowd’s attention and is part of the reason people love to come to Red Lodge.

“We wrap up everything in 2½ hours,” Shari continued. “We have to be done by dark because we don’t have lights.”

Shari has worked with the rodeo for over 12 years and in that time has seen the rodeo continue to evolve into one of the best in the country.

“It continues to get better and better,” she continued. “Some of

that is because of the community. The town of Red Lodge does a great job of supporting the rodeo and we have very generous supporters.”

It goes both ways. This year the “Tough Enough to Wear Pink” night, which was founded to support victims of breast cancer, has become an opportunity to support an individual or organization in need. The funds raised for the night will go to the Wounded Warriors project to support injured veterans and their families.

In addition to the traditional events at the rodeo, fans will also enjoy the Mutton Bustin contest where young boys and girls, up to age 8, will try their hardest to stay on top of a sheep for eight seconds. The event attracts young participants from as far away as Billings. Ten kids each night are drawn from a pool of over 50.

“It’s a popular event,” Shari said. “Kids and parents alike want to be part of it. Red Lodge was one of the first rodeos to offer it.”

New this year will be an extra night of rodeo, with the PRCA Xtreme Bulls night on July 1. The PRCA Xtreme Tour showcases the PRCA’s top bull riders and some of the rankest bulls in the circuit.

that’s broad

and

needs. As

local agent, I’m here to help. Let’s talk today.

The event is PRCA sanctioned and is comparable to the PBR. Points will count toward the NFR, and 40 bull riders are expected to compete.

“We’re very excited about it,” said Maverick Bushnell, a member of the rodeo committee. “Montana only has a handful of Xtreme Bull events and we’re blessed to be one of the rodeos offering it. We think it will be a great addition to the rodeo.”

Maverick, a Red Lodge native and former bull rider, said spectators can expect to see the top bull riders in the world taking part in the event. With Cody also hosting an Xtreme event, bull riders will be making the trip north to compete at both places.

“The timing is perfect,” Maverick continued. “People are excited to not only have rodeo back, but to have a new event to watch. We’re giving them four days of great athletes riding great stock. No one liked to be shut down last year and this year we’re coming back bigger and better. It’ll be a lot of fun.”

Jean’s C uisines

This issue’s recipes were selected with a crowd in mind. Planning a branding, attending a potluck or a special gathering? Both recipes can be doubled or tripled depending on the size of the crowd and are sure to bring pleasure to even the most finicky of eaters.

CRUST

• 1 ¼ cups flour

• ½ cup powdered sugar (reserve 1 Tablespoon for dusting)

• 1 Tablespoon cornstarch

• 1 teaspoon almond extract

• Pinch of Kosher salt

• ¾ cup butter, softened

LEMON BERRY FILLING

• 4 eggs

• 1 ½ cups granulated sugar

• ½ cup lemon juice

• Lemon zest

• ⅓ cup of flour

• 1 cup fresh blueberries, huckleberries, raspberries or blackberries

DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray and flour a 9 x 12 baking dish. In a food processor, pulse and mix the crust ingredients. Remove and press the crust mixture into the base of the baking dish, and bake for 10-12 minutes. As the crust is baking, combine the lemon filling. Mix the eggs, sugar, and lemon juice together until thoroughly combined. Zest lemon into the combination and mix well. Gradually add flour and quickly whisk to avoid clumps. Remove the crust from the oven and pour lemon filling over the top. Drop berries across the top of the filling. Bake for 25-30 minutes. Test for doneness by inserting a toothpick into the center of the pan. If the filling sticks to a toothpick, let it cook a couple more minutes.It will be done when the toothpick comes out clean. Remove, and let cool for a couple hours. Dust with reserved powder sugar, and cut into desired size bars for serving. Enjoy!

• 3lbs chuck roast

• 1 Tablespoon Kosher salt

• 1 teaspoon pepper

• 1 Tablespoon red pepper flakes

• 1 heaping teaspoon minced garlic

• 1 can lite beer

• 1 cup favorite BBQ sauce

DIRECTIONS: In a slow cooker place meat, sprinkle with Kosher salt, pepper, red pepper flakes, and minced garlic. Drizzle with lite beer for tenderizing. Set the slow cooker for 8 hours. Once cooked and meat flakes and falls apart or off the bone, remove beef from the slow cooker, drain liquid and reserve in a separate bowl. Place beef back into the slow cooker, shred beef and mix with barbecue sauce. Add teaspoons of reserved liquid to the meat as needed, and keep meat warm until serving. Brush buns with butter and heat for a short time. Heap meat on buns and serve with salads.

Better.

Estimated

Tonsillectomy, Adenoidectomy $3,880*

Total Knee Replacement $29,130*

ACL Repair $9,710-$20,346*

Myringotomy with Tubes $4,140*

Total Hip Replacement $26,340*

Laparoscopic Cholecystectomy $8,950*

Shoulder Arthroscopy $8,600*

Rotator Cuff Repair $9,270*

Carpal Tunnel Release $4,280* Vasectomy Reversal $4,760*

*The pricing information provided is strictly an

of

See website

full pricing disclaimer.

Yellowstone Surgery Center provides a warm, friendly and professional environment for outpatient surgical and pain services procedures with a commitment to caring, to quality and to excellent patient experience.

Take an active role in your health care by utilizing our website to research the benefits and risks of a procedure, as well as procedure pricing and financial planning options. Make any necessary plans regarding medical insurance coverage that may include benefits elected annually, such as Flex or other medical HSA accounts.

With gardening season just around the corner, it’s time to start planning ways to ensure that plants have the best growing conditions possible.

Garden health starts with the ground, and the best way to understand where to begin is to test the soil for its pH level and basic nutrients. A simple test kit purchased at a garden store can give a better understanding of how to enrich the soil.

One of the most common issues with Montana soil is a high pH, indicating alkalinity. Most fruits and vegetables prefer a soil pH of 6-7. If it is higher than that, nutrients such as zinc, iron and copper are less available to the plants, resulting in obvious deficiencies. Luckily, there are amendments that can be added to modify this level.

Gypsum, also known as calcium sulfate, is a common addition to the home garden. This is particularly helpful in clay soils, but not as effective in sandy soils.

Adding elemental sulphur is another option. It should be applied as early as possible as it requires several months before it mitigates the pH level effectively and is most effective when added in the fall. For acidic soil below a pH of 6, which is not nearly as common in Montana, the go-to additive is lime, which is

sprinkled before planting to help “sweeten” the soil.

The key nutrients to watch for are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. To improve all of these, add organic matter to the garden. This includes well-aged manure, compost, coffee grounds and crushed eggshells. While compost, coffee grounds and eggshells are easy to find and apply, it’s important to the know source of the manure.

One of the primary risks of using manure is burning the plants because of the potentially high nitrogen levels. Chicken manure is the most notorious for this issue, which is why it’s important to compost it before applying it to the garden. A better choice is rabbit manure, which is rich in phosphorus as well as nitrogen, and is often mixed directly into the soil because it breaks down quickly and is at low risk for burning plants.

Always make sure there are 120 days between adding fresh manure and harvesting from the garden to prevent possible food contamination.

Use well-aged manure to reduce the risk of burning plants and to also eliminate the potential of passing weed seeds into the garden. Horse manure is particularly notorious for introducing new weeds.

AMY GRISAK TENDS HER GARDEN OUTSIDE OF GREAT FALLS

Your ag operation is one of a kind, and you need a bank that understands. As Montana’s largest Ag Bank, we have the knowledge and expertise to assist you in all stages of your ag business. We are Montana’s homegrown bank. Come experience the difference.

GROWN LOCAL

Montana’s Brand of Banking

Member FDIC | Equal Housing Lender

Be aware of and do not use manure from horses that were fed certified weed-seed free hay. The residue from herbicides used on the hay crop can remain in the manure for years with results of curled leaves and dying plants. Be safe and avoid manure from animals fed weed-seed free hay.

Phosphorus is critical for root growth and overall development. To correct for low phosphorus, add bone meal or rock phosphate around the plants. Usually, the problem is a higher phosphorus number. Add zinc and iron to the soil to help the plants utilize the micronutrients.

Often, improving one macronutrient, such as potassium, also benefits others, as in the case of using greensand, which also improves magnesium and iron levels in the soil. Greensand, also called glauconite, is a natural mineral amendment derived from the soils of ancient ocean beds. It also helps in clay soil to improve the tilth and is an easy way to give plants a potassium boost, critical for plants’ overall health.

The use of raised beds is another way to deal with marginal soil, reduce weeds and allows for control of the quality of the soil. To create the walls, one of the cheapest materials is untreated new or used lumber, an affordable material that will last at least five years in Montana’s dry climate.

For something more permanent, consider using cedar, hardwood or a raised bed kit. Raised beds can be creative, incorporating galvanized metal, bricks, or natural stone to form the sides, offering beauty, function, and interest to your garden.

A good rule of thumb for a solid garden soil “recipe” is to use 50 percent topsoil, 30 percent compost, and the remaining 20 percent a combination of manure, potting soil, coco coir or peat moss, as well as “goodies” such as worm casting, coffee grounds, and even mycorrhizal fungi to help kickstart the life in the soil.

Now is the perfect time to whip the garden soil into shape or create a few raised bed gardens to prepare for planting in the next several months. Whatever you choose, you can never go wrong adding organic matter, including aged manure and compost, into the beds now to reap the benefits come summer.

MILES CITY Bucking Horse Sale

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY WOODY SMITH OF BS PHOTOGRAPHY & ROBIN BLANKENSHIP OF RB PHOTOGRAPHY

MILES CITY MONTANA

PHOTO BY WOODY SMITH

The World Famous Miles City Bucking Horse Sale has become so well known in commemorating the saddle bronc challenge that it has been became known as the Cowboy Mardi Gras. It’s the biggest event of the year in eastern Montana, where cowboys and cowgirls gather from across the country to take part in an oldstyle Western shindig.

It’s where wannabes are welcomed and encouraged to dress like the locals and spend some time and money. It’s when the population of Miles City more than doubles its size of 8,500, and in four days millions of dollars are pumped into the community and beyond.

Celebrating its 70th anniversary, which was cancelled last year because of the pandemic, the bucking horse sale promises it will make a comeback strong enough to be proclaimed the best ever.

No one would have believed in those first years that the sale would become a historic, world-renowned event, nor would anyone have thought that the town would try as it has to maintain the event. In fact, the first sale, held in 1950, was nothing more than an innovative way that Les Boe, owner of the local livestock yards, used to help sell 30 some bucking horses that he’d taken in on a trade.

was to let them buck. He invited cowboys willing to try their skills at riding broncs, along with several horse buyers, area ranchers and rodeo consigners. As each cowboy rode a horse, it was also auctioned off to the highest bidder. The event was successful and surprisingly entertaining, so Les tried it again the next year and it became an annual event.

The stock yards at Miles City continued to host the event as the years evolved, and by the late 1950s and early ’60s, the event grew to the point that hundreds of horses were sold each day. At times, more horses than cowboys were at the event and the sale continued long after the crowds headed to town for some revelry. Year after year, legendary characters, and local legends to be, have taken turns in the arena trying their best to ride out the broncs.

“It’s evolved for sure,” said Rob Fraser, past owner of the Miles City Livestock Commission and auctioneer for the event for 25 years. “In ’97 we had 500 horses for sale and a whole slew of rodeo contractors attending. Today, it’s less about the bucking horse sale and more about a celebration of the Western culture. The sale has become part of many events over the entire weekend. There’s so many things going on in the four days that

PHOTO BY ROBIN BLANKENSHIP

PHOTO BY ROBIN BLANKENSHIP

“

I rode my horse into a bar a couple of times after I led the parade. It was just part of the tradition.”

— TONY HARBAUGH

PHOTO BY WOODY SMITH

PHOTO BY WOODY SMITH

PHOTO CONTRIBUTED BY MC CHAMBER

it’d be impossible to not come away with a story or two.”

And stories there are of cowboys riding their horses into the bars on the promise of free drinks, which may have continued if it wouldn’t have taken days to shovel out the aftereffects of the horses.

There’s the story of the cowboy that hauled his tame buffalo all the way from Belle Fourche, South Dakota, and after performing at the arena during the rodeo, he rode it downtown and, fittingly, into the Bison Bar.

There are stories of fist fights and gun fights, of friendships made and marriage proposals offered and even fulfilled.

There are stories of veteran party attendees who could pace themselves for partying over the span of four days and the rookie partiers who gave it their all the first night and ended up behind bars for a day of recouping.

“The governor’s board of the Bucking Horse Sale has worked hard to make the event appealing to a wider set of participants,” said Tony Harbaugh, who recently retired after 35 years as sheriff. “There are still people that come solely for the horse sale and don’t even attend anything else and there’s the ones that only come to party and don’t have a clue that there are horses for sale.”

Thirty years ago, the sheriff’s office and police department tried to keep the people who wanted to drink inside the bars. But with the bars overflowing and an open container law in effect, it became a nightmare for the partiers and the law enforcement.

“We wanted people to come to the Bucking Horse Sale and have a good time,” Tony continued. “We just needed to figure out a way to manage it.”

By working jointly, law enforcement authorities, business owners and the board of governors came up with a plan that has worked effectively over the years. Now, the downtown is fenced off so patrons can walk from bar to bar, listen to music, dance at the street dance and not be arrested for open containers, as long as they stay in the pen.

“We needed to manage the mayhem,” Tony continued. “We want everyone to have fun until their idea of fun starts to interfere with someone else’s fun.”

Tony has carried the American flag in the parade on Saturday morning since he took over as sheriff. It’s been a big part of his weekend.

“I rode my horse into a bar a couple of

times after I led the parade,” he laughed. “It was just part of the tradition.”

The stories are fun to tell and laugh at, but the town of Miles City has made a concentrated effort to make the event more diverse. Without the dedication and hard work of hundreds of volunteers, the event might not have kept going. The determined ones who saw the potential it would have economically for the

community have helped it grow into a well-attended, distinctive event that books out hotel rooms and restaurants reservations months in advance. For four days folks crowd local businesses to overflowing, making the weekend a financial boon and an opportunity to showcase the best.

“The community has tried hard to make it more familyoriented,” Rob continued. “There’s camping at the fairgrounds and activities for kids, there’s the concert and parade. The town really puts its best foot forward. In fact, over the years, there’s a number of people that ended up living here because their first experience to Miles City was their exposure to the bucking horse sale.”

It has become a tribute to the lifestyle of the historical Old West, a gathering place for local ranchers and a destination for thousands across the country and the world to experience the hallmarks of rodeo, ranching and the Western culture.

This year the event will run May 13-16. But the weekends leading up to the Bucking horse sale will be just as fun. Starting on May 1 with Derby Day Racing, the first pari mutuel horse races of the year, followed by the Churchill Downs’ Simulcast of the Kentucky Derby, with live betting. The second weekend will be followed by more pari mutuel horse races, along with a simulcast of the Preakness Stakes, which will also include live betting.

“We’re bringing in some new things,” John Laney, executive director of the Miles City Chamber of Commerce and past board member of the bucking horse sale, said. “The live betting is new, and I think it will be well received.”

Beginning on May 13, the bucking horse sale will kick off with a concert with headliner Casey Donahew, followed by three full days of fun-filled events including parades,

PHOTO BY WOODY SMITH

PHOTO BY WOODY SMITH

Photo Credit: Terry Reed

art in the park, barbeques, trade shows, street dances, horse races, bronc riding, bull riding, wild horse races and of course the bucking horse sale.

“Last year hurt us having to cancel,” John continued. “It’s the biggest economic weekend of the year for a lot of people in Miles City. We’re ramping up this year to be the best one yet.”

Unofficial records indicate that the community lost $20 million to $25 million with the cancelling of the 2020 sale.

“It’s hard to believe until you start breaking the numbers down,” John said. “With not only lost ticket sales, and the average of

$115/day that attendees spend, but the lost revenue the hotels, restaurants, local businesses, vendors, nonprofits and then the horse racing, it’s a lot. Every dollar spent is turned over from three to seven times.”

That alone has the community excited about the return and ready to roll out the red carpet for their visitors. By the end of the weekend, visitors to the events will know that Miles City is proud of her heritage, big on the cowboy way of life and is definitely back in the saddle!

“Last year hurt us having to cancel It’s the biggest economic weekend of the year for a lot of people in Miles City. We’re ramping up this year to be the best one yet.”

— JOHN LANEY

PHOTO BY ROBIN BLANKENSHIP

PHOTO BY ROBIN BLANKENSHIP

WRITTEN BY DAVE VICKERY // PHOTOGRAPHY BY STU HOEFLE & DAVE VICKERY

REGION

John Colter’s Mark

A secluded and quiet grassy draw sprinkled with ponderosa pine and sandstone boulders near the confluence of the Bighorn and Yellowstone rivers holds mute physical testimony to the first Montana mountain man. A secluded and quiet grassy draw sprinkled with Ponderosa pine and sandstone boulders near the confluence of the Bighorn and Yellowstone rivers holds mute physical testimony to one of the first Montana mountain men.

Colter may have made his mark as a gesture of farewell to the Rocky Mountains as he left the area in 1810 never to return. He died a few years later in Missouri, leaving very little written record of his incredible years in the Western frontier.

His solo journey through the Greater Yellowstone region in the middle of winter in 180708 is often classified as one of the most remarkable human odysseys in the history of the fur trade era.

His engraving is adjacent to the carved name of famed fur trader Manuel Lisa.

The names on the rock have not been authenticated by historians, but evidence strongly leads to a conclusion that both are real. According to an archeologist who looked at the site, the names and their location appear to be consistent with the historical record of Manuel Lisa and John Colter and are close to where Lisa’s fur trading outpost near Fort Raymond was constructed in the fall of 1807.

Weathering on the signatures appears to be consistent with the passage of over 200 years, and the date is consistent with that known for both Lisa at Fort Raymond, and Colter’s home base during his last year in the mountains.

John Colter can arguably be classed as the first memorable mountain man through his adventurous explorations of the Yellowstone region by himself. A member of the Lewis and Clark

Expedition, he accompanied the famed explorers during their three-year journey from 1803 – 1806.

In August 1806, as the Lewis and Clark Expedition descended the Missouri River, they met two Illinois fur trappers, Joseph Dickson and Forrest Hancock, near the Mandan Indian villages in presentday North Dakota. Colter joined them and led them to the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River, where they spent the winter near the mouth of the Clark’s Fork Canyon in what is now Wyoming.

His decision makes clear that Colter had no fear of facing the wilderness life with very little in the way of equipment. He was at home in an inhospitable wilderness setting and had confidence in his survival skills and ability to live and succeed under arduous conditions. Perhaps he just loved the sense of freedom, adventure and challenge of the frontier.

Colter left this partnership in the spring of 1807, and once again headed downriver toward civilization. Near the mouth of the Platte River close to present-day Council Bluffs, Iowa, he met the Missouri Fur Trading Company expedition under the leadership of Manuel Lisa. Lisa recognized Colter as a priceless encyclopedia of the Yellowstone-Missouri region, with his years of experience and knowledge of the land, rivers and Indian tribes. He prevailed on Colter to turn back west a second time to accompany the fur expedition to the mountains. It was during this second return with Lisa that much of the Colter legend was built.

Colter led Lisa to the confluence of the Bighorn and Yellowstone rivers in present-day eastern Montana where Fort Raymond was built in late summer or early fall of 1807. It is likely that the choice of the site was made largely on the advice of Colter in order to avoid the Blackfeet Indians on the Upper Missouri, and

to establish trade with tribes and using the Yellowstone country as prime hunting ground.

Manuel Lisa’s signature is dated 1807. Lisa may have carved his name and date not so much as a remembrance, but potentially to lay claim to the fort’s location and regional trading rights. Economic potential from fur trade was of intense interest in St. Louis following the return of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, and Lisa, known as a shrewd businessman, planned to take early advantage of opportunities.

With the fort established, Lisa assigned Colter the task of finding Crow Indians to inform them of the trading post and encourage them to bring pelts and furs to it for trade. Legend has it that during the winter of 1807-08, Colter journeyed across unmapped wilderness on foot, with a muzzle-loading rifle, knife and small pack on his back. He traced a route up the Yellowstone River, probably up Pryor Creek, and across Pryor Gap into the Bighorn Basin of Wyoming. Venturing into the Sunlight Basin, he arrived at the present site of Cody, Wyoming, then trekked across unexplored wilderness, arriving near present-day Jackson Hole. When returning, he made his way through unknown mountain passes to discover what became known as “Colter’s Hell” when he described geysers, thermal springs and boiling mud pots that are now part of Yellowstone National Park.

After his return to Lisa’s fort, Colter remained in the frontier for two years, making trips up the Yellowstone River and over the Bozeman Pass to the Three Forks region. In 1808 near the Jefferson River, Colter was captured by Blackfeet Indians and made his dramatic cross-country escape in a race for his life, the

event above all that made him a legend of early Western history.

After another expedition to the Three Forks in early 1810 with a party of Missouri Fur Company trappers, Colter decided to leave the mountains for good after another battle with Blackfeet Indians. Returning to Lisa’s fort, it is likely he carved his name and year into the sandstone rock alongside that of Lisa, perhaps as an unconscious gesture to leave a mark of his life in the Rocky Mountains.

After he returned to St. Louis in the fall of 1810, Colter met with Capt. William Clark, who was compiling a written record of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Clark created a manuscript map, based on Colter’s journey, and included it in the 1814 publication of the history of the expedition.

Upon returning to Missouri, Colter married and started a family. His domestic life was destined to be short, though. In 1813 he developed jaundice and died that November. He was buried near his farm. Whether or not his grave was marked there became moot, since the graveyard was destroyed by railroad construction in the 1920s.

Other than his name carved onto a sandstone boulder in a quiet ranch coulee near the mouth of Montana’s Bighorn River, there is no physical evidence of the adventures and rugged wilderness life of the first mountain man. Perhaps that is as Colter would wish it.

ART OF THE

Cowgirl

PASSING THE WESTERN SPIRIT TO THE NEXT GENERATION

ACROSS MONTANA

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTED BY ART OF THE COWGIRL

JAIMIE SOLTZFUS, FELLOWSHIP DIRECTOR WITH HER DAUGHTER, ELLIOTTE AND SON, KAYCEN

Passing on traditions has long been a part of the lifestyle of the West. An older adult teaching a younger one an art or skill to prepare them for life.

Art of the Cowgirl was founded with that in mind and is all about protecting, preserving and sharing the art of the Western spirit and passing it down to the next generation. The commonality the women in the group share is the desire to celebrate cowgirls, their families and their contributions to the Western lifestyle and culture.

The organization brings experienced and aspiring artisans and horsewomen together in a mentorship program that allows the professionals to pass on their expertise and knowledge to the younger generation.

Art of the Cowgirl was founded just two years ago by Ryegate native, Tammy Pates. Her dream was to provide an opportunity for emerging Western artists to work with masters. The idea grew quickly as horsewomen, saddle makers, bootmakers, silversmiths and fine artists gathered to offer workshops and mentorships in a fellowship program.

The first event was held in January 2019 in Phoenix, Arizona, giving ranch women an opportunity to leave winter behind for a few days and enjoy the fellowship with other women. Around 1,500 women gathered at the first event, and attendance doubled the following year.

“We celebrate women, horsemanship, agriculture and art,” said Fellowship Director Jaimie Stoltzfus. “The fellowship program connects women and helps provide an opportunity to learn a

trade, build something with your hands and keep a Western tradition going.”

An impressive roster of masters in several trade areas offer up a week or more of their time to train with up-and-coming artists. Art of the Cowgirl pays for it all — the teaching fees for the masters, travel and lodging for the recipients, plus materials and supplies.

Scholarship winners are required to finish the fellowship in the year it was awarded and show the work they accomplished during their mentorship at the following year’s event. And they are asked to donate a piece of their work to the fellowship auction to help defer the costs of the next year’s fellowship winners.

For Melanie Kimpton of Townsend, it was an honor to have been the 2020 recipient of the scholarship for horsehair hitching and rawhide braiding. She apprenticed under renowned custom braiders Bill and Theresa Black of Plush, Oregon.

“I had only been braiding for about three years,” Melanie said. “But when I saw the application, I jumped right on it. Up to that point, I’d really just braided during the winter down time, so I didn’t have a lot of finished projects.”

Melanie spent 10 days with the Blacks, staying at their home, working long days under one-on-one tutoring.

“The days were long,” she admitted, “but I learned more in the time I was with the Blacks than I had in the three years since I’d started.”

“We celebrate women, horsemanship, agriculture and art."

— JAIMIE STOLTZFUS

In addition to learning the trade better, the masters will often help with business plans, goals-setting and time-management skills.

“We spent three days just cutting strings,” Melanie said. “Getting prepared for projects helps save time down the road. I finished a set of reins for the auction in June, but I also came home with a lot of unfinished projects to keep me going.”

The close quarters and full days allowed Melanie and the Blacks to become good friends. “They told so many stories during the time I was there,” Melanie said. “And they showed me more than I could have imagined with braiding. They challenged me to try new things.”

Chelsea Sazama, who won the saddle-making scholarship and spent a week with professional saddle maker Nancy Martiny, of May, Idaho, had a similar experience.

“I had already built 15 saddles,” Chelsea said. “But winning the fellowship from Art of the Cowgirl gave me something that I had never experienced. I worked 10- to 12-hour, uninterrupted days, with Nancy showing me every step of the way, and came home with a completed saddle.”

As an advanced saddle maker, the fellowship helped Chelsea hone her talent. “Nancy worked on more advanced skills for me and there were two of us being tutored on two different style of saddles, so I actually picked up a lot on building another style.”

In addition to saddles, Chelsea also makes chinks, leggings, tapaderos, belts and purses. Eventually she’d like to help others learn leathermaking skills.

“Art of the Cowgirl believes in full circle,” she said. “You give back what you’ve received. I’d like to teach 4-H kids basic leatherwork.”

It isn’t just the select few scholarship recipients that benefit from Art of the Cowgirl. At the yearly event, dozens of workshops are

COACHES CHELSEA

offered by masters who teach horsemanship, cow dog handling, jewelry making, photography, songwriting and other skills.

“We’ve really tried to find a master at about everything we can think of that ranch women are interested in and we’d like to showcase those talents,” Jaimie said. “Especially those that are used to supplement incomes. The workshops are hands-on and really beneficial to the ones attending them.”

The event is usually held in January in Arizona, but this year will be held in June in Bozeman.

“I think it will be a huge success,” Jaimie said. “Women from all over the country attend, and Montana is such a great spot to come to, especially in the middle of summer.”

The four-day event is scheduled for June 24-27 at the Gallatin County Fairgrounds and includes an all-woman ranch rodeo, a 75-vendor trade show and an elite horse sale.

The horse sale is unique in that a select number of horses, trained by ranch women to do ranch work, will be available for auction. Last year, sales prices at the elite auction averaged $37,000.

“It’s a very exciting time for everyone,” Jaimie said. “Art of the Cowgirl just keeps getting bigger and better and impacting more and more Western women.”

Just when you think Spring has come, Winter reminds us where we live.

Beauty found at the base of Red Lodge Mountain

What an impact this mill made in its day. HarlowtonEvidence of Yesteryear, Outside of White Sulphur Springs

Bringing them closer to home to calve. Checkerboard Ranch

that just a kick in the pants!" Halverson Ranch

Dinner Train

Few historical figures have done more to immortalize the West than Charlie Russell, a St. Louis native who came out to Montana Territory and captured the culture on paper and canvas. His paintings gained much popularity during his era, and today they serve as historical artifacts that bring the lore of those wild and free days back to life.

Much of Charlie’s most revered work featured the landscape in and around central Montana, and this community celebrates his legacy in a unique way. In 1994, the Lewistown Area Chamber of Commerce established the Charlie Russell Chew Choo, a premier dinner train that makes a 56-mile roundtrip journey from Kingston Junction to Denton. It features a full-course prime rib meal (catered by Harry’s Place), musical entertainment, train robbers, saloon girls, breathtaking scenery and narration on the life and times of “The Cowboy Artist.”

The seven train cars fill up quickly, with visitors from all over the United States, as well as from Canada, Scotland, England and elsewhere. For many, the train’s appeal is the nostalgia involved. This is especially evident in some of the older riders.

“My father always loved trains,” a passenger said recently. “Having the opportunity to take him on the Charlie Russell and share his interest in trains meant a lot to me. It’s one of the memories with him I’ll cherish the most.”

There is much to cherish about the Charlie Russell Chew Choo experience. As passengers step off the train and thank the coordinator, they often share a variety of favorite moments:

maybe it’s the landscape, maybe it’s going over the three trestle bridges (one of which — the Sage Creek Trestle — was used in the filming of the 1996 action film “Broken Arrow”) or into the half-mile Hoosac tunnel.

For children, highlights often involve the outlaws, some of whom are rumored to be descendants of Kid Curry’s Hole-in-the-Wall Gang. These men and women are part of Winifred’s Salt Creek Gang, and they put on a Hollywood-worthy Wild West shootout outside an old, abandoned saloon.

People are startled and excited — especially the kids — as the outlaws come on board and stick up the passengers. The kids might get a little nervous, but they realize there is nothing to worry about, as the cowboys are courteous and playful. After all, the Chew Choo is a family-friendly affair from beginning to end.

Although Charlie Russell spent the bulk of his time in Great Falls, it was central Montana that first captivated him. This is evident in the wide-open prairies he captures so well in paintings like “The Toll Collectors,” “The Jerkline” and “The First Furrow.”

It was in central Montana that Charlie first got a job as a wrangler. He was a nighthawk, keeping the cattle together in the evenings. According to Western historian Gayle Shirley, he found this work “pleasant and peaceful.”

“He sang to the sleepy animals and gazed in wonder at the stars,” she wrote in “Charlie’s Trail: The Life and Art of C.M. Russell.”

Charlie held this job for 11 years, working for several big outfits in the area. He enjoyed the opportunity to work at night and paint during the day — a schedule he did not take for granted. This opportunity to paint the vast prairies and mountains, the wild men and the wildlife, shaped Charlie as an artist and as a man. It’s this era of his life the train celebrates, as Charlie Russell is just as much a part of central Montana as central Montana is a part of him.

FAMILY

ROOTED ON LOWER DEER CREEK

LOWER

BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY STU HOEFLE

To say raising sheep is in Kevin Halverson’s blood would not be an exaggeration. Kevin and his wife, Shirley, run 650 head of Rambouillet and Targhee sheep on Lower Deer Creek in Sweet Grass County. It’s something he’s done his entire life, having purchased his first lamb at age 7.

But that wasn’t the start of it. In 1872, Ronald Halverson, Kevin’s greatgreat-grandfather settled in Sweet Grass County and brought with him the first band of sheep in the area.

“He brought in a thousand head,” Kevin explained. “There were already a few sheep here, but he was the first with a herd that large.”

A fourth-generation Montana rancher, Kevin gives credit to his father and grandfather for the experience of raising sheep and all that they taught him. The ranch sits on the same ground where his great-grandfather first settled. Remnants of his homestead can still be seen along the creek bottom. The large cottonwoods and protected pastures make a pastoral setting for raising sheep and a perfect location for lambing, which starts in early April.

On a recent warm spring day, the Halversons were shearing, and all family members were present for the annual event. Kevin’s son, Ron, grandson, Trevor, and granddaughter, Eva, were all lending a hand along with several neighbors. A portable shearing trailer had been brought in by a traveling shearing crew of five. They kept busy as the Halverson family pushed the sheep down a narrow alley and up into the trailer to be shorn and pushed out to pasture. The work continued throughout the day.

Joanie Krywaruchka, one of Kevin’s sisters, their 92-year-old mother, Mabel and Ron’s fiancé, Chrissy Daly were on hand to show support and help out. The work involved a good deal of affection, bantering and camaraderie among the family members and a few neighbors. While the sheep were being sheared, Shirley and daughter, Bobbi Jo Rosteck, were back at the house preparing a meal to feed the crew.

— KEVIN HALVERSON

The biggest factor in the declining number of growers was the loss of the Wool Incentive Program. Implemented in the 1950s, the program rewarded growers who produced superior wool.

For over 40 years, the wool incentive provided substantial income to sheep ranchers and was used to sustain domestic production. The program was financed with tariffs and did not require any tax dollars. The government did away with the program in the early 1990s, after which the industry saw a tremendous decline in producers.

Still, Kevin hopes that his family will carry on. At 71, he doesn’t show much sign of slowing down. “I have half the sheep I ran at half my age,” he quipped, “and I’m just as tired as I was back then.”

A humble man with calloused hands and kind eyes, Kevin is well liked in his community and still willing to help out other sheep ranchers.

“I’ve helped kids out for decades,” he said, “but I’m always learning, too.”

Kevin is the past president of the Montana Wool Growers Association and spent over a decade on the board. He’s vocally promoted mutton and wool and has given advice to dozens of young ranchers, FFA members and 4-Hers. He spent decades on the Sweet Grass Wool Pool when the county proudly supported around 130 wool growers.

“Back in the ’80s, it wasn’t unusual to have 250,000 pounds of wool coming out of Sweet Grass County alone,” Kevin said. “Today, Sweet Grass is combined with Stillwater and Wheatland and have a combined number of about 30 growers.”

Today he’s helping out his 14-year-old grandson, Trevor “read” fleece. As Trevor pulled a tiny sample out of the wool on the sheep’s back, he meticulously pulled it apart.

“What do you think, Grampa?” he asked Kevin.

“What do you think, Trevor?” Kevin asked in return.

The two of them discussed the crimping and the waviness, the texture and the fineness of the wool before determining if it would be suitable to add to the blocks of wool accumulating from the shorn sheep. Kevin smiled as Trevor raced back to the end of

“I’ve helped kids out for decades, but I’m always learning, too.”

TREVOR, KEVIN, RON AND EVA HALVERSON

“He’s a great kid,” he said proudly. “During lambing, I’ll come down to check the ewes at 5 in the morning and he will have already been here.”

There are many facets to operating the ranch, and it seems that the three generations have each gravitated toward what they are best suited for.

Ron loves the land and is working to implement intensive grazing into the ranch’s operating program. The idea is to break pastures down into smaller allotments, forcing livestock to graze more efficiently, which also helps control the spread of noxious weeds such as leafy spurge.

“We are trying to utilize our pasture better,” Kevin said. “Cattle and sheep actually graze well together. They don’t eat the same

native plants, so grazing is more efficient, and the predators seem to stay away from the lambs more when there’s cows in the area, too.”

With the changes in consumer buying habits, government involvement and a growing "anti-ag" being promoted toward the entire ag industry, it seems like an uphill battle for ranchers.

“We feel a great responsibility toward educating consumers,” Shirley said. “There’s so much misconception out there. I can’t tell you the number of times I have had conversations with people that thought you had to kill a sheep to shear it. They really have no idea. And that’s just one example.”

Taking care of the herd, being good stewards of the land, keeping up with the economics and changing attitudes of consumers keep the family trying hard to stay one step ahead.

“No matter how bad it gets, you can’t beat wool,” Shirley said. “They’ve tried to duplicate it, but they just can’t. Wool clothing can be worn year-round, it’s far superior to synthetics, it wears forever and you don’t have to wash it every time you wear it.”

“Things are always changing,” Kevin said. “Hopefully, we can figure out how to produce more with what we have and keep expenses at a minimum. And help the kids to keep on going.”

the alley to continue pushing sheep forward.

EWES WAIT PATIENTLY FOR THEIR TURN TO BE SHEARED

FIVE SHEARERS AT A TIME WORK TO SHEAR THE SHEEP