Raised in the West | Spring 2020

2019 WORLD CHAMPION CALF ROPER,

HAVEN MEGED

A Young Man, A Big Dream, A World Title

2019 WORLD CHAMPION STEER WRESTLER,

TY ERICKSON

Bulldogging His Way to the Top

SNAKE, RATTLE AND WHOA!

Reptile Wrangler Wrestles Rattlers

SPRING 2020

contents

28

40

10

34

Colorful Character Bill Brinkel’s Days are Still Full

A Young Man, A Big Dream, A World Title

90 YEARS OF EMBRACING LIFE

12

A UNIQUE BUT FAMILIAR FOOD MARKET Natural Foods Abound in the Outdoors

16

JEAN’S CUISINES

18

MELVILLE ELEMENTARY 124 Year Old School Still Going Strong

22

TO GAIN IS TO REIGN AT MIDLAND BULL TEST

2019 WORLD CHAMPION CALF ROPER, HAVEN MEGED

40

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACKIE JENSEN

46

RUSTIC RELAXATION Norris Hot Springs Offers More Than Just a Soak

48

FOR THIS SECOND GENERATION HATTER THE DETAILS MATTER Ericka Kirkpatrick, Twin Bridges’ Mad Hatter

28

Colorful Character Jean Duffey is Everyone’s Favorite and is Truly Loved

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COVER TY MEGED, WORLD CHAMPION CALF ROPER… BELIEVE IT OR NOT, HE MAKES THE LOOP!

Reptile Wrangler Wrestles Rattlers

And That’s No Bull!

Bulldogging His Way to the Top

46

SNAKE, RATTLE AND WHOA!

52

2019 WORLD CHAMPION STEER WRESTLER, TY ERICKSON

SPRING 2020

SWEET GRASS COUNTY’S SWEETHEART

54

OUT & ABOUT

PUBLISHER CYD & STU HOEFLE 406-860-0292 // publisher@raisedinthewest.com COPY EDITOR ED KEMMICK ADVERTISING CYD HOEFLE 406-860-0292 // publisher@raisedinthewest.com STU HOEFLE 406-860-4109 DESIGN MELANIE FABRIZIUS ads@raisedinthewest.com ADDRESS RAISED IN THE WEST PO Box 80267 // Billings, MT 59108 ©2020 Peaks to Prairie Media All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

note from the publisher It’s our favorite time of year, when spring throws back the heavy quilt of winter and jumps out of bed with a vengeance. Daily we see new life cropping up and painting the landscape with a fresh palate of beautiful color. An energy returns that seems to have been stifled by winter’s short days and cold temperatures.

We are on our second issue and we continue to be amazed at the talent behind our magazine. Our staff, writers and photographers are getting into a groove that is shaping Raised in the West into what we hoped it would become-authentic, entertaining, enlightening and rural.

We are excited to be featuring Montana’s two, newly crowned World Champion NFR Cowboys. Two fantastic stories, two world champions, two young men chasing dreams as big as the Montana sky, with the support of family, friends and their faith. What an honor to have Montana represented by these exemplary young men.

We gathered our stories from a variety of places around the state. Maybe you’ll learn something new, maybe you’ll relate to someone, or even better, know them.

We’d love to hear from you. If you have a great story idea or a comment, reach out to us. If you’re worried about missing an issue, we offer subscription rates by the year. Check out our new webpage and follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

Thank you to all our advertisers, the faithful ones that came with the magazine and the new ones jumping on board. We wouldn’t be able to do this without you!

Enjoy the read!

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contributors MELANIE FABRIZIUS

GRAPHIC DESIGN___________________________________________ Melanie was raised on a farm on the banks of the Clarks Fork River in Belfry. Her life-long love of art led her to a career as a freelance graphic designer. When she’s not busy working, Melanie enjoys being with family, spending time with her dogs, camping, ATVing, collecting rocks and watching the sunset.

ED KEMMICK

BRIAN D’AMBROSIA

WRITER_____________________________________________________________ Brian D’Ambrosia is the author of more than 10 books and his articles have been published in local, regional and national publications. In addition to journalism, Brian works as a licensed private investigator in Montana and Kansas. He may be reached at dambrosiobrian@hotmail.com

DR. GREG MOORE

COPY EDITOR_______________________________________________ Ed Kemmick has been a newspaper editor and reporter in Montana for more than 35 years. He worked for 25 years at the Billings Gazette and from 2014 to 2018 he ran Last Best News, an online newspaper based in Billings. He just published “Montana: The Lay of the Land,” a collection of Last Best News stories.

CONTRIBUTOR______________________________________________________ Dr. Moore has been an emergency room physician for 38 years, currently practicing at Barrett Hospital in Dillon. He teaches Emergency Medicine and Wilderness Medicine throughout the the US, Central America and other sites around the world. He enjoys hunting, fishing, camping and travel. He and his wife have three children and reside in both Missoula and Dillon.

KELLI MAXWELL

MICHELE PEDERSEN

MARKETING DIRECTOR______________________________________________ Kelli Maxwell is a local marketer, influencer, podcaster and entrepreneur.

A Billings native, Kelli grew several successful businesses in her twenties, before moving on to open her own marketing agency and start a podcast monetized with its own coffee company. Kelli specializes in all things content creation, branding and writing for her clients and her own businesses. You can learn more and reach Kelli at embermg.com

STU HOEFLE

JACK OF ALL TRADES________________________________________________ He is a photographer, editor, title twister and accountant. He’s also an encourager, entertainer and travel partner. He helps with story lines, asks great questions and looks at every angle. When he’s not helping with the magazine, he’s helping someone else. He can be found with a fishing rod, a camera or a packed bag and promises, or threatens, that he’s going to disappear someday to a sandy beach with a grass hut, an endless river or a mountain top...he won’t say which.

AMY GRISAK

WRITER_____________________________________________________________ Amy Grisak balances her life between the mountains and the prairie looking for stories that catch her interest. This award-winning writer shares what she loves with readers, whether it's finding gorgeous hikes in Glacier National Park or how to push the gardening envelope in our challenging Montana climate. Her two sons, Samuel and John, are her sidekicks in the field, and her husband, Grant, raises honey bees to assist in the effort. You can follow Amy's endeavors on her website, amygrisak.com.

CHARLIE DENISON

WRITER_____________________________________________________________ Charlie Denison is a free-lance writer, musician and award winning journalist. He lives with his wife and their Weimaraner in Lewistown where he is senior reporter at the News-Argus. Originally from Indiana, Charlie is grateful to live in Big Sky Country and enjoys sharing stories of the many interesting people and places throughout the Last Best Place.

SUSAN METCALF

WRITER _____________________________________________________________ Susan Metcalf is a fourth generation Montana rancher who is raising the fifth and sixth generation on their two family ranches, which were homesteaded in the early 1900's. Susan has written a humor/recipe column every week for 25 years. She enjoys horses and cooking and being a Grandma. She taught junior high English for 25 years before becoming the Sweet Grass County Superintendent of Schools. She and her husband Remi live near Big Timber, Montana raising kids, grandkids, cattle, and horses.

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PHOTOGRAPHER____________________________________________________ Michele Pedersen grew up on the Brinkel farm near Broadview, MT where she learned the value of work and the generosity of a good neighbor. Four years ago, she started Pedersens Photography shooting portraits – seniors, families, weddings and couples. Her husband, Greg is her biggest fan and provides entertainment on almost every shoot.

She also works with her 90 year old dad making MT frames in his wood shop. She has two wonderful stepsons, Bryce and Nik, that keep life full to the top.

LINDA KELLY

PHOTOGRAPHER____________________________________________________ Linda is an avid hiker and horsewoman and spends much of her time exploring with family, dogs and horses. She has a lifetime career as a graphic designer, art director and wildlife photographer, www.

WestoneImages.com. After her son and husband completed Iraqi Freedom Combat Tours, she founded www.OperationNeverForgotten. org. She then shared her passion for MT with combat altered veterans and developed outdoor retreats for them and their families.

JACKIE JENSEN

PHOTOGRAPHER____________________________________________________ Ranch raised, Jackie Jensen spent her youth competing in high school, college and then amature rodeo before becoming a full time PRCA rodeo photographer. “I am a story teller by nature, the camera allows me to take my audience with me to places they would never see and do things that most would never be able too.” Check out her website at JackieJensenPhotography.com.

SHARI DESAUVER

SALES_______________________________________________________________ Shari DeSauver is a wife, mom and grandmother and living proof that you can take the girl off the farm, but not get the farm out of the girl! Shari resides in the Stillwater Valley on a small acreage with her husband, dogs, horses, chickens and more often than not, a few of her grandchildren! After experiencing living overseas, Shari has discovered there truly is no place like home in Montana.

CallToday to Advertise!

CYD HOEFLE

406.860.0292 publisher@raisedinthewest.com

SHARI DESAUVER

406.321.2331 shari@raisedinthewest.com

SPRING 2020 // 9

Embracing

Life

BILL BRINKEL’S DAYS ARE STILL FULL Bill Brinkel might not live in the country anymore, but country still appropriately defines him. The 90-year-old retired wheat farmer was born and raised near Broadview where he farmed until his late 70s. He farmed the same soil as his father, devoting his life to the land before he passed it down to his daughters. One daughter and a son-in-law are still farming the property.

“I’ll always consider myself a farmer,” Bill said.”That hasn’t changed!”

Bill now lives in Billings and spends his time working in his woodshop west of town. His shop is filled with stacks of wood, saws, lathes and every tool imaginable for turning wood into beautiful works of art.

“No two creations are ever the same,” Bill said as he closely examined a small block of wood as much with his hands as with his eyes. “The wood is always different in character, color and design.”

“I started working with wood at the farm,” he explained. “I had to have something to do when I wasn’t farming.” Bill started with cedar fence posts found throughout his property. His first attempts were retractable ballpoint pens, which entailed breaking down a piece of wood into a 1-by3-inch inch block, drilling out the inside for the ink cartridge and then painstakingly lathing it down to the desired dimension to make a twopiece pen with six different parts.

“Those first ones took a while,” he said with a laugh.

Today, in addition to pens, he makes beautifully inlaid cutting boards, pepper mill grinders, tooth-pick holders and jewelry cases. His hands, rough and calloused from a lifetime of farming are still remarkably strong.

“Ah, they don’t work like they used to,” he said, “but at least I have them.

I’ve come close to losing a couple of fingers a time or two!”

During his time as a farmer, Bill was also a county commissioner for Stillwater County, served on Montana’s wheat board and spent time promoting Montana wheat to foreign countries, including China and the Philippines. It seems his active lifestyle followed him through to retirement.

“I just can’t sit at home and watch TV,” he said. “If I don’t stay busy, I’ll get old!”

Bill said his philosophy of life is, “Work hard, be honest, treat your fellow

BILLINGS MONTANA 10 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHELE PEDERSEN

man right and be kind to your neighbors, as there’s nothing like good ones!”

This is especially true for a man who once relied on the kindness of neighbors to finish his harvesting as he recovered from an accident. Bill was injured as he was hooking up a tractor’s hydraulics to auger wheat from a truck into a grain bin. Instead of climbing on the tractor and using his foot to push the clutch down to start it, he thought he would just push it down with his hand to save some time. When he lifted his hand off to engage the auger the tractor jumped, knocked him down and rolled over him.

He was airlifted to Billings for broken ribs and collarbone and had a punctured lung. His injuries required hospital time to recuperate. The inconvenience of the accident was further exasperating because Bill had not yet finished harvesting his wheat. His neighbors stepped in.

“

I’ll always consider myself a farmer.”

—BILL BRINKEL

“That’s the one thing I wish I could have seen,” Bill said. “My neighbors. So many of them. Seven or eight combines, a half dozen grain trucks. They showed up and harvested my fields in a day. It would have taken me weeks. They stopped their harvesting and showed up at my place to do it for me. I’ll never forget that.” As he retells the story, he’s still emotionally touched by it.

Bill continues to embrace life to the fullest and enjoys his days at his workshop and time with his family.

“I live by four rules to keep myself busy and to keep from getting Alzheimer’s,” he said with a smile as he counted them off on his fingers, “1. Play bridge, it’ll keep your mind working. 2. Do some woodworking, it keeps your hands busy. 3. Dance, especially country western, foxtrot and waltz and 4.

Hmmm,” he continued with a laugh and a twinkle in his eyes, “I can’t remember that one…”

SPRING 2020 // 11

NATURAL FOODS ABOUND IN THE OUTDOORS

As the snow recedes, nature offers a bounty of fresh food long before the garden has anything to harvest. Take advantage of the warming spring days to search out new additions to your seasonal dishes.

Understanding the edibility of wild plants is a nearly lost art, but it doesn’t have to be. Tom Elpel of Pray, Montana takes a particular joy in sharing the patterns and palatability of wild foods through

his primitive living and wilderness focused classes, as well as his numerous books, including Foraging the Mountain West.

As someone who’s spent his life honing primitive skills and understanding the natural world, he sees the springtime as a veritable feast. “It’s just a matter of finding a sunny, south-facing bank,” he said.

MORELS Perhaps the best-known and sought-after wild delicacy is the morel mushroom. Popping up as the earth warms, these edible fungi can be almost impossible to find, or fill a bushel, depending upon the year.

Look for morels in conifer forests, particularly after a burn year, and among cottonwoods near the rivers as the season progresses.

While they can range in colors of yellow to black, morels are most easily distinguished by having the heavily ridged and pitted cap attached directing to the stalk. And when you cut it in half, the mushroom is hollow.

A false morel will often have a cap that hangs free of the stem, as well as a more brain-like appearance. They’re also not usually distinctly hollow on the inside. When in doubt, toss it out.

It’s also important to note that any wild mushroom is best handled and cooked as you cook meat. Food poisoning from rodents and bird contamination actually makes more people sick than a mistaken mushroom.

ACROSS MONTANA 12 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY AMY GRISAK // PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMY GRISAK

DANDELIONS Early in the season, dandelions are a harbinger of spring providing an exceptional source of vitamin K, plus vitamins A, C, E, along with iron, calcium, magnesium and potassium. On top of it, they boast eight times more antioxidants than spinach.

“Dandelions are one of the best,” Elpel said, “because they’re easy to identify, nutritious, and very versatile. Add them to any dish.”

Some use the blossoms to make a delicious dandelion jelly. Pick the flowers in the morning when they’re at their sweetest. Pinch and twist the yellow petals out of the flowers, discarding the green bract before they turn to fluff. Infuse the yellow petals to create the juice to make the jelly.

Elpel also likes individual dandelion flowers dipped in pancake batter and fried. “Those are the best. Although when we’re doing a group, we gather the flowers and scramble them into the batter, and make straight up pancakes. Either way, it’s impossible to go wrong.”

CANADA THISTLE Many people are surprised to learn that Canada thistles, those noxious weeds many of us battle, are palatable.

“The leaves are quite tender,” said Elpel. “Chop them up fine.”

In fact, many members of the thistle family are edible. The white-flowered, native elk thistle helped save Truman Everett, an early Yellowstone explorer who was lost for 37 days in 1870. He survived by eating the roots, but the stalks are also nutritious.

CATTAIL Springtime is also an ideal time to utilize cattails. “My favorite part is to use the tubular shoots in the spring.”

Epel said, “Pull the green stalks, peel off the outer layers, cut off the end (that sits in the water), and peel off the outer layers. Eat them in a salad.

That’s gourmet food right there.”

Later in the spring or the early summer, he advised, capture the pollen by shaking the heads into a bag or bucket. Mix in with flour to make pancakes or other baked goods.

PRICKLY PEAR CACTUS Prickly pear cactus is a surprisingly delicious food, once you tackle the spiny exterior.

“I’ve tried to burn the spines off prickly pear but I couldn’t get all of the tiny hairs off of the glochids located at the base of the larger spines,” Elpel said.

“That tends to make eating them less enjoyable.”

Although he did point out that some varieties are less prone to this issue. In this situation, he advised to slice the pads into green bean-like strips.

Elpel then added that in instances when you can’t relieve the exterior of the prickles, slice the pad and scoop out the jelly-like interior. He said it’s perfectly edible and is often used to thicken soups and stews.

SPRING 2020 // 13

YELLOW BELLS AND GLACIER LILIES To brighten spring salads, the lemony-yellow blossoms of yellow bells and glacier lilies are tasty and beautiful. Yellow bells are a welcoming sight as the snow recedes early in the season. The flowers are edible, along with the leaves and corms (similar to a bulb), which are cooked or eaten raw.

This holds true for the iconic glacier lily growing in masses following the snow’s recession in sunlit areas. The brilliant flowers have a mild flavor, and while the leaves are edible, Elpel said they have a funny aftertaste.

The prize of the glacier lilies is the corm. In the realm of the grizzly, it’s common to see swaths tilled from them digging this nutritious food source. For eons, indigenous people also harvested them, eating them fresh, along with drying or cooking them.

While it’s good to understand the edibility of species at our fingertips, it’s equally important to harvest ethically and respectfully. With slow-growing species, such as yellow bells and glacier lilies, over-harvesting is a distinct concern.

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While leave-no-trace principles are often cited, the actual act of digging the corms is best done by mimicking nature. Elpel pointed out that when the grizzly bears dig up the plants, they use their long claws to rake up the sod.

“The act of tilling the ground can stimulate the growth of more,” he said. “Like a bear, don’t take every corm.”

Although so many plants are good and edible in our landscape, there are certain groups that are best avoided, even if there are edible varieties within them.

Elpel pointed out that some of the deadliest plants in North America reside in Montana, including the water hemlock and poison hemlock. They are both related to carrots, the same as the edible cow parsnip, and to avoid confusion, he said, “It’s a good idea to stay away from that family entirely.”

“We also have a lot of death camas in Montana,” he said.

One of the varieties has a white flower with bulbs like an onion, but without the onion smell. “The leaves are V-shaped on meadow death camas,” he said.

caution. Two bulbs of most death camas varieties are enough to kill a person.

Montana is a bountiful place. As the world awakens in the spring, take some time to stroll through the greening landscape to discover the delicious options out our backdoors.

And while the blue camas is highly nutritious, and the plants are easy to distinguish when in bloom, it’s safer to err on the side of

SPRING 2020 // 15

LET’S EAT

WRITTEN BY JEAN PETERSEN

Jean’s Cuisines

FROM THE KITCHEN OF AWARD WINNING AUTHOR, JEAN PETERSEN COMES TWO OF HER MANY DELICIOUS RECIPES. Huckleberry Burger offers a bit of spice to a basic 100% beef burger and Morel Mushrooms coincides with our article on tips for foraging for food in the springtime. Bon appetit!

Huckleberry Sauce • • • • • • • • • • • •

13 oz huckleberry jam 1Tablespoons light oil 1 cup Ketchup 1 teaspoon seasoned salt 2 Tablespoons of balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon minced garlic 3/4 cup finely sliced red onions 3.5 oz can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce 1 Tablespoon red wine, (maybe a splash extra for good measure) 3-5 healthy splashes of Tabasco 2 teaspoons of Sriracha chili sauce

In a medium saucepan, combine ingredients and simmer on low heat until sauce is bubbling and has thickened. Set aside until burgers are grilled and ready to serve.

Huckleberry Burger • 2 lbs-100% ground beef • 2 teaspoon Montreal Steak Seasoning • 2-3 splashes Worcestershire sauce

In a bowl, mix ground beef with seasoning ingredients. Roll, pat and form hamburger patties.

Heat grill to medium flame and cook thoroughly to desired meat preference temperature.

Top with sauce and serve on buns.

Serve with a Strawberry Spinach Salad topped with candied walnuts and Strawberry Vinaigrette featured in The Big Sky Bounty Cookbook.

Morel Mushrooms FEATURED IN THE BIG SKY BOUNTY COOKBOOK

• 2 cups morel mushrooms, cut in half lengthwise and cleaned • ½ Tablespoons unsalted butter • 1 Tablespoon garlic, minced • 1⁄4 cup brandy, any brand • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper • Fresh thyme leaves To clean mushrooms, soak in cold water for 15 minutes, then soak two more times until water is clean. Dry on paper towels. This gets the bugs out that you don’t see in the little folds and wrinkles!

Heat sauté pan to medium-high heat and add 1tablespoon butter and mushroom halves. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add minced garlic and sauté another 30 seconds, being careful not to burn the garlic. Turn heat to low, add brandy, return heat to medium-high and reduce liquid for 1 minute. Add the remaining 1⁄2 tablespoon of butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with fresh thyme.

Custom Homes New Construction Cabinets Rustic Furniture 406-425-1245 PETERSENBUILDING.COM

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SPRING 2020 // 17

A 124 YEAR OLD COUNTRY SCHOOL MELVILLE MONTANA 18 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY SUSAN METCALF // PHOTOGRAPHY BY STU HOEFLE

TEACHER, SKY ROUWHORST WORKS WITH HER 5TH GRADE STUDENTS

Nestled in the shadows of the Crazy Mountains just south of the town of Melville sits an iconic rural school, Melville Elementary, which was established in Sweet Grass County in 1896. Twentyseven students attend this rural school taught by three teachers.

Seventeen of those students are siblings and/or cousins, and many of them are second- or third-generation Melville School students.

Although Melville School is thriving now, just 13 years ago there were only three students enrolled.

The population growth of the school is mostly attributed to the cycle of birth rates in this ranching community. About a decade ago, former Melville School students came home from college or came back to the ranches they were raised on and began to have children, and — ADELYN TRONRUD soon the school was bursting at the seams.

“

walk or ride on horseback. Now, there are only about 60 rural schools still operating in Montana.

The location of Melville School makes it convenient for many students to attend, as Melville is 21 miles from Big Timber and 24 miles from Harlowton. It is much easier for area families to send their children to Melville than to bus them to “town school.” Most Melville School graduates go on to attend Sweet Grass County High School in Big Timber.

There are definite advantages to attending the small school.

You get to interact with kids of all ages, and you learn to be a good role model.”

Four years ago, the Melville School Board found itself in the enviable position of having to fund an addition to the school to make room for the homegrown population explosion. That makes Melville School something of an anomaly among rural schools in Montana, including the other two rural schools in Sweet Grass County, McLeod School and Greycliff School, which are struggling to survive in the face of declining enrollment.

Montana once had 2,793 rural one-room schoolhouses. Sweet Grass County alone had 69 school districts. Schools were situated every three to five miles along established routes of travel, that being the distance students could be expected to

“You get to interact with kids of all ages, and you learn to be a good role model,” said eighthgrader Adelyn Tronrud, a secondgeneration Melville student. “You have kids younger than you in your classroom, and you have to help teach them, too.”

Paige Wertheimer, a seventh-grader, said, “Most of us live on a ranch, so we can relate to each other.” However, Melville School does accept students from out of the district, so some parents transport their students from Big Timber, for the rural school experience that Adelyn described.

Ettje Plaggemeyer, who grew up on a ranch in the area but attended “town school” in Big Timber, is the head teacher at Melville School, where she is in her fifth year.

In her view, a crucial role for teachers is helping students fail

SPRING 2020 // 19

EVEN COLD TEMPERATURES DON’T STOP MELVILLE STUDENTS FROM ENJOYING THE FRESH AIR.

and then recover, and celebrating their hard work in reaching goals.

“In a larger school, this isn’t as easily achieved,” Plaggemeyer said. “… Being able to relate daily and individually to every student in the rural setting makes my teaching more effective.”

Eighth-grader William Donald, a third-generation Melville School student, agreed, saying it’s “less dramatic and chaotic” than schools in town.

“

Being able to relate daily and individually to every student in the rural setting makes my teaching more effective.”

Some critics of one-room schoolhouses cite lack of socialization as a drawback. Plaggemeyer begs to differ.

Skye Rouwhorst, another Big Timber native, who is in her fourth year of teaching at Melville, had her own reasons for cherishing the Melville School environment.

“I have the opportunity to get to know these kids for up to nine years,” she said. “My fifth-graders have been in my homeroom class since they were in second grade. They are so much like my own kids that the thought of them going to the ‘big kids’ classroom next year makes me very sad.”

— ETTJE PLAGGEMEYER, TEACHER “Melville School has a great social environment,” she said. “Eighthgraders play with kindergarteners on a dirt playground. I can’t say that all students at Melville School are best friends, but they are all respectful of each other and understand that they learn differently “There is never a dull moment in rural school teaching,” she and/or need different things.” continued. “… With such a wide variety of learners, we as teachers

DUSTYN LARUE, 3RD GRADER

STUDENTS, LIBBY HOLMAN, LEFT AND SEQUOIA SMITH AND TEACHER, MRS. WOOD.

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ANDY ANDERSON, 6TH GRADER

are constantly providing scaffolding to one group while challenging another. Our students also get a unique opportunity to learn from each other by being exposed to material sometimes years before they would at other schools.”

Melville School has weathered many a storm that swept down out of the Crazy Mountains in its 124 years of existence, and it narrowly escaped the Chichi Fire in November of 2007, which burned 30,000 acres right up to the school yard.

If the community of Melville has its way, Melville School will continue to educate students for the next century.

HEAD TEACHER, ETTJE PLAGGEMEYER

SPRING 2020 // 21

COLUMBUS MONTANA 22 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOS PROVIDED BY MIDLAND BULL TEST

” ! l l u b o n s ’ “And that According to the 2017 Agricultural Census, there are more than two cows for every person in the state of Montana. That equates to about 2.5 million head of cattle. Cattle are a big deal. In fact, they rank close to the top as a contributor to the No. 1 industry in the state, Agriculture.

For cattle ranchers, many variables can affect their bottom line. The market, feed costs, weather and consumer buying habits are some of the things that they have no control over.

They are in a continual battle trying to stay ahead of the everchanging industry in order to keep their operations profitable.

The biggest day of the year is the day their calves sell and every rancher hopes their costs are covered and they can put some money in the bank.

weights, gain-ability, mother’s production and yearling weights, he believed, would give ranchers a measurement to help them decide which bulls were profitable enough to continue using. He started with a handful of young bulls provided by several breeders who agreed to let him track the results from the tests.

• there are more than •

2INcows for every person THE STATE OF MONTANA

Though it was valuable information, it would be some time before the industry gave credibility to the concept.

But with perseverance, those first years of following the proficiency and performance of young bull calves paved the way to one of the nation’s most reputable and successful feedlots.

Visible from Interstate 90, six miles east of Columbus, Midland Bull Test is a familiar site to anyone accustomed to traveling along that stretch of the road. The long low barn with “Midland” printed in large letters across the roof, and pens filled with cattle, extending out from the barn, might look like most feedlots across the region. But Midland Bull Test is anything but typical.

*2017 AGRICULTURAL CENSUS

Fifty-seven years ago, Leo McDonnell Sr., a young rancher, hoped to come up with variables that could be controlled by the rancher, and in the process came up with a new concept. He reasoned that if breeders were able to measure their bulls’ performance and keep track of the data, they could make better decisions about their breeding programs. Keeping track of birth weights, weaning

SPRING 2020 // 23

THE SALE BARN IS BUSY DURING THE “FINAL SORT SALE”

“A lot has changed in the industry in the past 50 plus years,” Leo Sr.’s grandson, Steve Williams, said. “But some things have not. We still believe that the No. 1 input is feed. What are you feeding your cattle and how are they performing because of it?” At Midland they believe that the greatest opportunity ranchers have to be profitable is in the converting of roughage to pounds-on-the-scale, because in the end that’s how ranchers make their living.

Six decades and three generations later, Steve is still operating from that original concept. Computers have long since replaced hand-testing. Manual feeding of the calves has been replaced by a specialized feed truck which allows precise tracking of daily feed and water intake. And the number of bulls from a few ranches has grown to a list of seed stock producers from 32 states enrolling over a thousand bulls every fall into the coveted program.

Every September, young bull calves, freshly weaned from their mothers, start arriving at Midland. These registered purebred bulls already meet a high standard before entering the program. If their performance at Midland meets the strict criteria and they make it through the cuts, they will be part of the annual production sale.

Commercial cattle ranchers around the country will gather for the “Final Sort Sale” in April, where the top 70% of the bulls will be offered to the highest bidder.

Beginning on a level playing field, the calves are closely watched and monitored for seven months, developing from young bull calves into sound functional bulls, ready to be used as herd sires. Just after arrival, the calves are tagged with an electronic ear tag that tracks and monitors their feed consumption and progressive weight gain, along with other invaluable information. The information is gathered and entered into computer programs on a daily basis. Two weigh-in dates during those months eliminate bulls not making targeted gains.

The test results gathered tell Steve the correlations between the pounds of gain to the pounds of intake and ultimately the cost of gain.

In a video on the company’s website, Steve’s father, Leo McDonell, Jr., says, “60% of our country and our world is arid and covered with a product that has no value to humans for food.” That product is range grass. “We are blessed with ruminants like cattle that convert these grasses to a high-density protein that’s enriched and has a lot of value. We manage our grasses and use cattle to harvest it to provide a great food: that’s beef.”

At Midland, great effort is taken with feed. The animals are fed high levels of roughage coupled with low levels of grain with a low energy ratio. The feed is compatible to rangeland pastures and prepares the bulls to survive on 20 percent less grass and still come out at the top performance level. This ensures that no matter where the bulls end up across the country, they will hold up in strength, durability and soundness.

“The greatest opportunity ranchers have is in the ability to maximize profits found in incremental efficiency gains as cattle

24 // www.raisedinthewest.com

STEVE WILLIAMS, MIDLAND BULL TEST OWNER, RIGHT, WATCHES AS THE AUCTION TAKES PLACE

convert roughage to pounds on the scale because that’s where the majority of our customers make their living,” Steve said.

Midland is renowned as the largest feed efficiency program in the country. With the data gathered, producers are privy to the results of tests that rate fertility, genetics, soundness, structure and disposition information that is critical to ranchers’ profitability.

The sale provides commercial ranchers with a wide range of affordable bulls to use for breeding and building their herd. It also gives buyers the opportunity to see and compare, at one sale, the top bull calves from ranches all over the US. It’s a daily program for Steve and his crew.

The bulls need to be fed multiple times per day, every day. Data gathered from the ear tags needs to be downloaded and made available to producers keeping up on their bulls’ performance testing. But despite the hard work, the crew at Midland still believe they’re doing something beneficial for cattlemen.

Steve can’t imagine another line of business, “It’s a lifestyle for us,” he said. “We never stop learning. If you do, that tells you one thing. It’s time to get out of the business.”

Educating cattlemen is important to Midland. Steve believes just as his father

SPRING 2020 // 25

BULLS ENROLLED IN THE PROGRAM ARE MONITORED DAILY

and grandfather did that educating cattlemen about efficiency will keep Midland successful and buyers aware.

“We take care of our customers, both the consignors and the buyers,” he said. “We strive to be available for them.” He keeps an app on his phone which tells him immediately where each bull stands. He’s always available when consigners call about the progress of their bulls and when buyers want information about

26 // www.raisedinthewest.com

bulls enrolled in the program.

“We want to keep showing our customers the importance of performance testing and how to maximize profits. We’re all in this together,” Steve said with a smile.

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2019 BULLDOGGING HIS WAY TO THE TOP ★ ★ ★ ★ Backing his horse into the box, Ty Erickson readies himself. With a nod of his head, the chute operator springs the gate open releasing the steer. It bolts into a full run across the arena.

Ty is careful not to break the barrier as he pushes his horse into a full run. Watching the steer’s reaction and the direction it’s headed, he knows instinctively what to do. He quickly catches up and parallels the steer. At a full lope, Ty’s left foot leaves the stirrup as he leans toward the steer. In one fell swoop, his right-hand slides along the length of the steer’s body and he catches the horn in the crook of his elbow. Simultaneously his left hand grabs the tip of the left horn. Ty’s feet hit the ground and he plants them solidly, carving furrows in the dirt. As he gains traction and comes to a stop, he lays the steer down. The clock stops. Ty jumps up, hands in the air. 3.3 seconds!

“

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I have dreamed about being the world champion for years.

To have won, it’s a feeling I just can’t describe.”

— TY ERICKSON

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Three point three seconds! Think of it: In the amount of time it takes for someone to take in a deep breath and exhale, the tall, lanky cowboy has bulldogged a steer to the ground. Ty breaks his own record giving himself a new personal best. It is fitting that he did so during his first event of the year in his home state at the Montana PRCA Pro Circuit Rodeo held in Great Falls in January.

Ty is fast. So fast that he is the reigning 2019 World Champion Steer Wrestler, a title he claimed in December at the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas. It’s a title he worked hard to obtain.

“I have dreamed about being the world champion for years,” Ty said. “To have won, it’s a feeling I just can’t describe.”

HELENA MONTANA 28 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACKIE JENSEN

SPRING 2020 // 29

When he looks back on the path that he’s taken to become the champion, it’s filled with dreams, hard work, setbacks and blessings. At 29, Ty’s been chasing the title for a decade, but through it all, it’s obvious that the humble, cowboy really does love steer wrestling- everything about it.

He didn’t start wanting to be a steer wrestler. In fact, he had hopes of making it big as a calf roper. But somewhere along the way that goal shifted.

Ty spent his childhood around horses. He grew up in Helena, where his mother trained horses and his veterinarian father practiced equine chiropractic work. Ty helped his mom out during the summers by riding the horses she was training. He learned horsemanship

early and obviously well.

When he was a junior in high school, local steer wrestler, Nick Stubblefield brought his horse by for Ty’s dad to examine. Ty’s mom suggested he talk to Nick and maybe think about steer wrestling. He did both.

“I come from a physically big family,” Ty said. “We’re all athletic. My uncle played tight end for MSU and Mom was always pushing me to play either football or rodeo. Once I tried steer wrestling, I was hooked. I loved it!”

After making the switch, Ty ended up selling his calf-roping horse to Haven Meged, a young teenager in Miles City just starting out. Years later the two of them would share the stage as they both received world champion titles.

Ty threw himself into steer wrestling. “It’s like football in that it is a contact sport,” he said. “My size helps for sure, but you have to be pretty agile too.” At 6-foot-6, Ty is both.

“From that first time I bulldogged a steer I knew this would be my event,” he said. Ty practiced with Nick for years and credits Nick for a lot of his success.

“He taught me technique, but he also taught me how to win. The mental part of winning is as important as the physical.”

Backing into the box, Ty stays intensely focused and says he thinks about one thing: the run ahead of him. “There’s not much time to analyze,” he said. “My muscle memory takes over and I just do it.”

30 // www.raisedinthewest.com

SPRING 2020 // 31

Ty works full time preparing for those few seconds in the arena.

He trains daily with a mechanical steer and horse, taking very little time to do much else. He also trains with his horse but most of his training is done with the mechanicals.

“I bulldog so much I couldn’t do that to my horse. It would be too hard on him,” he explained.

Ty travels to rodeos with a couple other bulldoggers, Tyler Pearson and Tyler Waguespack. “The camaraderie among steer wrestlers is unlike any other sport,” Ty said. “We travel together, use the same horses, battle each other and cheer each other on. We want the same thing and we have the same goals. We want to win, but there’s respect there too.” They even share the same first name, though they go by Ty, Tyler and Wags.

The three of them work the logistics of the rodeo schedule and strategize how to get the two horses they share to each rodeo.

It’s a complicated, and expensive schedule as they work out which rodeos to attend.

But what they have seems to be working, Tyler Pearson was the 2016 and 2017 World Champion and Tyler Waguespack was the World Champion in 2018.

It isn’t just the three traveling companions that are good friends. Ty says that all the bulldoggers are comrades.

“We’re just a close group of guys,” he said, “I’d help any of them if I could.” ★

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I don’t take the support I get from my home state for granted. I love Montana and I’m proud to be from here.

— TY ERICKSON

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It’s an arduous journey to get to the finals. A strenuous schedule sometimes means ten rodeos in six days. The requirement to show $40,000 in earnings compounds the pressure. But getting there is a privilege that Ty doesn’t take lightly.

“One of the greatest moments at the NFR is when I represented Montana with the flag,” he said. “It was a huge honor for me.”

Similar to the Olympics, all the states represented at the finals rodeo are carried by a cowboy on horseback at the opening ceremonies.

“I don’t take the support I get from my home state for granted,” Ty said, “I love Montana and I’m proud to be from here. I want to represent my state well. I look at steer wrestling as my job and I am blessed to be doing this,” Ty said. “I love what I do!”

32 // www.raisedinthewest.com

SPRING 2020 // 33

MILES CITY MONTANA 34 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACKIE JENSEN

World Champion

2019

Calf Roper

Meged

A YOUNG MAN, A BIG DREAM, A WORLD TITLE AND AN INCREDIBLE ATTITUDE

Haven Meged remembers roping so late into the night that he and his best friend illuminated the arena with the headlights of three tractors and two trucks. They used a lime green lariat rope so they could see where their loop was heading as they practiced roping young calves.

Yet that’s not his first memory of his love for calf roping. It began when he was around 10, roping newborn calves to be ear tagged. From there he roped the bum calves to feed and doctor them. “Something stuck,” Haven said. “I’ve just always enjoyed roping.”

Haven is the newly titled 2019 World Champion Tie Down Roper which he received in December at the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas. It’s a dream come true for the Miles City native, who began the year as a rookie traveling for the first time on the rodeo circuit .

Thousands of miles later, he has stacked up title after title, including Rookie of the Year, National Circuit Champion, Pro Tour Champ and NFR Average Champ and finally the most prestigious award, World Champion.

Just how does a cowboy go from rookie to world champion in one year? Haven would say he did it by setting a goal for himself and achieving it one step at a time.

SPRING 2020 // 35

“I’m not from a rodeo family,” he said. “But I love to rope. It became my life. I got serious about roping when I was in the eighth grade.

I saved up my 4-H money so I could finally buy a calf-roping horse and through a friend, ended up buying Ty Erickson’s horse.”

It so happened that Ty had decided to sell his calf-roping horse to pursue steer wrestling, making the timing perfect for Haven. Amazingly, over a decade later, the two would share the spotlight as they each earned a world title.

Their mutual friend, Brett Fleming, a titled Montana rodeo calf roper, not only helped Haven find a good roping horse, he also became his mentor. Haven took to his teaching so well that even after Brett moved out of state, Haven would forward videos of himself to Brett, who would offer critiques and advice.

Haven worked hard and pushed himself to excel. A hardworking, humble young man, mature beyond his years, he is selfmotivated because, as he says, it’s expected of him.

The first of four children, Haven rose to the expectation of his parents when they purchased the Miles City Stockyards. He was to take more responsibility on the ranch, 20 miles from town.

36 // www.raisedinthewest.com

“I just did what they asked me to do,” he said. “There was no question. We had five to six hundred head of cows and they needed to be fed, doctored and looked after. My parents couldn’t do it all.” The young man was just a teenager when he began managing the ranch, but it instilled in him a work ethic that he has taken on to college and rodeo.

“

Haven has a reputation for the intensity of his focus. “I’ve roped a million calves,” he said. “Now it’s more a reaction than anything when I’m backed into the box getting ready to nod.”

Haven packs a lot into a day.

In addition to full time rodeoing, he attends college full time, and still finds the time to rope 15 to 20 calves every day.

Riding seven to nine horses daily, he not only trains his own horses, but he trains for other ropers as well. He will graduate in May from Tarleton University in Stephenville, Texas with a degree in Ag-industries and Agencies.

I love Miles City, I’ll be back someday to stay.”

He’s also a hometown favorite. Miles City is proud to be home to the champion. The community hosted a congratulatory party at Christmas time in celebration of Haven’s short but amazing career.

“I love Miles City,” Haven said, “I’ll be back someday to stay.” One of many sponsor patches covering his bright pink shirt is one from the infamous Bucking Horse Sale, an annual event in Miles City. “I’m pretty sure I’m the only guy in rodeo sporting that patch,” Haven said with a laugh.

“Thankfully I have understanding professors,” Haven said. “They know my rodeo schedule comes first, but I do my darndest to stay caught up and get good grades.”

SPRING 2020 // 37

The spotlight that Haven has been in is something that he doesn’t take lightly. He remembers being at the NFR as a young boy trying his hardest to find Trevor Brazile, a World All-Around Cowboy who holds the record for world champion titles. He tracked him down and had him sign his name on a piece of cardboard. It meant so much to Haven that he still has it.

“I know I’m a role model for kids,” he said. “I want to be someone that they can look up to.”

“I’ll help anybody I can,” he continued, “any way I can.” He does too, often sharing his horse with fellow ropers or encouraging them with his words. “I believe in chasing your dreams. Never give up and if you want it go for it.”

Though it’s great advice, he almost gave up himself this past summer.

“Over the 4th, I won $800,” he said, “It was tough. I was ready to hang my rope up, but my family encouraged and pushed me and deep down, I knew I couldn’t quit.”

He experienced other setbacks too. Just 24 days before the NFR Haven roped a calf and was about to flank him when the horse took an extra step and hit him from behind. The extra weight landed on his ankle and Haven went down hard. “I tried to get up but I couldn’t

38 // www.raisedinthewest.com

“

I know I’m a role model for kids. I want to be someone that they can look up to.”

move. All I could think was that I wasn’t going to make the NFR. The one thing I’d been dreaming about just died.”

Haven sought treatment for two torn ligaments and suffered a high and low ankle sprain. He was told he’d be out of commission for up to eight weeks.

Ultimately the healing took less than a week. Haven credits his faith and belief in God for the remarkable healing. Under exceptional care, he was back in the saddle, picking up his frantic pace quickly.

The young man is the first Montanan to qualify for the NFR in calfroping since 1980. He’s one of only four cowboys who have won national collegiate and pro-titles in the same year. He made his first appearance at the NFR and walked away with a world title.

What will the new year hold for Haven? As is the custom with rodeo, it’s a level playing field as the 2020 rodeo season gets underway and he starts all over.

“It’s go hard or go home time for me,” he equipped. “When you back into the box, you just do your job and let things pan out.”

SPRING 2020 // 39

SNAKE, RATTLE

SILVER STAR MONTANA 40 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY LINDA KELLY

AND WHOA!

REPTILE WRANGLER WRESTLES RATTLERS Roger Siemens knows more about prairie rattlesnakes than most of the people in Montana. He should. He’s been studying their habits, researching their habitat and living with them for over 25 years.

He didn’t set out to be a rattlesnake expert. It was something that happened quite by necessity, or accident, depending on how you look at it. And with it, Roger and his late wife, Rita, started what would become a sought-after service for landowners being overrun with rattlesnakes.

“It started quite innocently,” Roger explained. “We’d just moved to Silver Star and Rita had an encounter with a large rattlesnake out in her garden. I took care of it and told her that snakes happen and we’d probably not see another. A few days later, she encountered another and that was enough. She told me, ‘Either the snakes go, or I go!’ She ended up staying.”

Trying to figure out why there were so many snakes around their home and acreage south of Whitehall, Roger discovered multiple dens of rattlesnakes nearby. He began looking for ways to control them - and in the process a service was born.

That was back in 1994 and for the next 25 years Roger and Rita would visit ranches across Montana, locating dens, educating

landowners about snake control and in many cases relocating the snakes they found.

“You don’t have to be crazy to do this line of work,” Roger said laughing, “but it helps.”

Prairie Rattlesnakes are the only species of rattlesnake in Montana and the only snake (in Montana) capable of delivering a venomous bite. There are no Diamondback Rattlesnakes this far north.

According to Roger, there are 1000s of dens and many thousands of rattlesnakes located in the foothills, rocky crags and desert like tundra all across Montana.

“There’s no shortage of snakes in Montana,” Roger said. “They hide, though, because they are more scared of you than you are of them.”

A retired Forest Service ranger with a wildlife biology degree, Roger is familiar with most all of Montana as his 30-year career spanned the forests across Montana from the Beaverhead, Deer Lodge and Gallatin Forests to the Badlands of Custer in Eastern Montana. He’s worked and hiked across thousands of acres. But despite all the exposure he’s had to rattlesnakes, he has never been bitten.

Roger and his crew begin looking for dens as early as March when

SPRING 2020 // 41

the earth warms up and the snakes start looking for food. Rattlesnakes gather in the fall and hibernate in community dens with other species of snakes over the winter.

“Their metabolism, their heart rate, their energy - it all slows down during the cold months.

And when they come out of their winter dens, they are hungry. If you see one, it might hiss or rattle loud, but really, wouldn’t you too, if you hadn’t eaten in eight months and all you’d done is stare at your buddies,” Roger quipped.

“

You don’t have to be crazy to do this line of work, but it helps.”

— ROGER SIEMENS

Roger’s sense of humor has probably contributed to the success of his business as well as to his longevity. At 81, he’s still active and hikes as much as his aches and pains allow. He is also mourning the loss of his beloved wife of 60 years.

“She was a babe, I’ll tell you what,” Roger said, pausing to reflect on all the years they had together. “I miss her so much. Everybody loved my wife. She was something else.”

Rita was a very important part of the service the Siemens offered. “We both had a very healthy fascination and respect for rattlesnakes,” Roger said, “Rita was terrified of mice, but she got so used to snakes she became a huge part of our service.”

Roger depended on her to help him empty dens and together they would clear out dozens of snakes from a single den in one visit. Roger would climb up to the entrance of the den and toss the snakes to Rita by way of a snake tong and she would pick them up with her tong and place them into a container that they would haul away. “We made a good team,” he said.

After years of studying snakes, Roger doesn’t claim to scientifically know about them, but he has a wealth of field knowledge and common-sense lessons about them.

42 // www.raisedinthewest.com

“There are a lot of rumors that are contrary to the truth about rattlesnakes.” he said, “For the record, they won’t chase you. They aren’t out there lurking to harm you. But they will defend themselves and that’s when they strike.”

their dens, holes or undercover. “If you encounter a snake, you’re in their habitat and there’s a high probability that there is a den somewhere in the vicinity,” he advised.

Rattlesnakes help control the rodent population and they are part of the food chain as they are a food source for badgers, fox, coyotes, hawks and eagles.

When a landowner calls with concerns about snakes, Roger and his crew survey the area, locate the den and come up with a plan to either control or eradicate them. They have removed thousands of snakes from dens across the state to remote locations away from human activity. In cases where removal is not an option, Roger instills an awareness of the rattlesnake and its habits.

Snake bites are rare in comparison to the number of snakes in the area and the number of people working and recreating outdoors. But it is wise to be prepared because it can and does happen.

Roger advises using a probe stick or walking stick when you’re out and sweeping the area ahead of you to scare any potential snakes away.

“You’ll see snakes around your dwelling for two reasons,” he said.

“Either the area is a food source or a place to hide. Eradicate rodents from your living area to eliminate the snake’s food and be very careful around rocks, bushes and places where snakes like to hide, especially if you are working with your hands, and are placing them in those areas.”

“Keep your eyes open and be aware,” he advised. “They are a part of our natural environment. They are very fascinating but dangerous. So always be aware.”

Roger said that snakes spend up to 80 to 90 percent of their time in

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IF YOU

DO GET

BIT

...

There is really nothing that can be done in the field to prevent the spread of venom that has been proven effective. In fact, most field treatments are harmful and delay effective antivenom treatment.

RECOMMENDED FIRST AID ✔ M ove away from the snake, it may try to strike again. ✔ T ry and stay calm, and do not delay transport to the nearest hospital.

✔ N ote the time of the bite and gently wash the sight then mark the edges of the wound and cover with a sterile dressing ✔ R emove any rings, watches, bracelets as many bites have significant swelling

✔ A lthough there are no good studies you may immobilize the extremity bitten AT the level of the heart.

Obviously, this will not be helpful for leg bites if you have to walk out. ✔ D O NOT DELAY TRANSPORT TO THE NEAREST HOSPITAL.

THE DON’T’S

The following treatments have been found to not only be ineffective but also can cause more harm and damage to the bite wound. ✖ DO NOT try oral suction

✖ DO NOT try mechanical suction

✖ D O NOT cut the bite sight to enhance bleeding

✖ D O NOT apply electric shock to the bite site

✖ D O NOT apply ice

✖ DO NOT apply a tourniquet or band

✖ D O NOT apply a pressure wrap.

THE MOST IMPORTANT TREATMENT IS GETTING THE PATIENT TO THE HOSPITAL AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE!

CONTRIBUTED BY DR. GREG MOORE, BARRETT’S HOSPITAL, DILLON, MT

44 // www.raisedinthewest.com

SPRING 2020 // 45

Rustic Relaxation NORRIS HOT SPRINGS OFFERS MORE THAN JUST A SOAK

“Unique soaking adventures abound at Norris Hot Springs,” Chris Wilson insisted. “It’s a place like nowhere you’ve seen before.”

I was with my parents, who lived in Big Sky at the time, and we had just finished a float down the Madison River. We were all up for an adventure.

We followed Wilson, a Big Sky ski instructor and outdoor enthusiast.

He’d never led us astray, and he wouldn’t this time, either. He took us to Norris Hot Springs, a hip oasis 36 miles east of Bozeman on MT-84 with a large wooden spring box pool, live music, organically grown food, local beef, local brew and an easy-going atmosphere.

I got my wish, and I’ve been at it ever since. It’s hands-down one of my favorite gigs. Norris manager Dillon Campbell works graciously with the performers, keeping the operation smooth and getting them what they need before they have to ask. This includes a free meal, which comes fresh from the garden or grill.

“The garden has been Holly Heinzmann’s vision since the inception of her ownership 14 years ago,” said Campbell. “We grow snap peas, broccoli, purple cauliflower, squash, kale, tomatoes, peppers, basil, asparagus, chives, carrots and more. Also, the beef comes from the B Bar Ranch and the buffalo comes from Rancho Picante.

Everything we source is within 50 miles of us.”

Wilson was right. We’d never seen anything like it.

Originally from Loveland, Colorado, Campbell was familiar with hot springs culture, but he’d never seen anything like Norris.

What struck me the most was the large geodesic dome known to regulars as “the bubble,” which hosts live entertainment. On that day it was Little Jane and the Pistol Whips.

He also remembers his first time. It was six years ago. “I was sitting out on the lawn having a burger and listening to the Dangling Chads after a nice long soak,” he said. “It was rustic relaxation.”

A musician myself, the very first thought I had was “I want to play in there.”

“Rustic relaxation” is a big part of the charm, as people from all over are coming to check out Norris, including people who remember it from its wilder days.

NORRIS MONTANA 46 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY CHARLIE DENISON // PHOTOGRAPHY BY STU HOEFLE

“People still ask about Nudie Nights,” Campbell said, letting out a little laugh. “That’s not something we advocate. We invite children and families to come out.”

That’s the way Heinzmann and Norris staff like it. Weekend nights can still get a little rowdy, but it’s monitored, as people are cut off after three alcoholic beverages and the pool is drained starting a little before 10 p.m. There may be some partying, but it doesn’t get out of hand.

People are there to relax.

I approach shows in the bubble with this in mind. I’ll play a lot of upbeat songs (Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds” and The Proclaimers’ “I’m Gonna Be”) but I also keep it calm, playing mellow originals and standards such as The Beatles’ “Across the Universe” and Leonard Cohen’s “Hallelujah.”

Campbell said many of the musicians who play in the geodesic dome call it “the spaceship,” especially in the winter, and I can see why. When the dome is closed off it feels like you’re playing in your living room.

It’s cozy and warm, complete with radiant heat from the springs (and space heaters). You feel like you’re alone in there, and then applause bursts out, serving as a reminder that you’re providing entertainment, the life of the party in solitary confinement.

“

I t’s an all-in-one kind of place and it can be a different experience every time.”

— DILLON CAMPBELL

This is just as unusual for those outside the dome.

“In the winter it’s a unique art expose with the way the fog covers the dome front,” Campbell said. “All you can see is the musician’s shadow.”

There have been many memorable nights at Norris, inside and outside of the bubble. My wife, Kari, is a hot springs enthusiast. She’s introduced me to many of the hot springs around Montana, and I was honored to have the privilege to introduce her to Norris. It quickly turned into one of our favorite road trips. When weather permits, we camp on the premises, an accommodation many others also enjoy.

“We call it ‘the island of Norris,’” Campbell said. “Camping was slowmoving at first, but now there’s hardly a day we’re not completely booked. There are tent options and camper options. Those who are camping can soak all they want.”

Campbell, a Norris employee for six years now, said he can’t imagine a better place to work, and he’s not alone: most employees stay there at least two years, and most enjoy a soak before or after their shift just as he does.

I share their love for the place. Whether providing entertainment or just coming out for a soak, there are few places I’d rather go.

“It’s an all-in-one kind of place,” said Campbell, “and it can be a different experience every time. There is a huge diversity of soaking adventures to be had out here.”

SPRING 2020 // 47

t FOR THIS SECOND GENERATION HATTER t

ERICKA KIRKPATRICK MAKES COWBOY HATS IN TWIN BRIDGES

TWIN BRIDGES MONTANA 48 // www.raisedinthewest.com

WRITTEN BY BRIAN D’AMBROSIO // PHOTOGRAPHY BY STU HOEFLE

As a kid Ericka Kirkpatrick sewed sweatbands inside of cowboy hats and cleaned them with excited alacrity. Traipsing throughout her mother’s millinery shop, she would find bags of multicolored feathers intended to be used as inseam and fling them in the air. It wasn’t all mischievous; there was also work to be done on the tall sanding machine where she would patiently hand-sand cowboy hats.

Rubbing the gritty paper against the brims wasn’t exactly typical child’s play, though it kept her smiling and occupied, and it was safe and gradual enough that she couldn’t do all that much harm (to either the hat —ERICKA KIRKPATRICK or herself). Even today, the tactility of turning hats – the repetitive feel of how the fibers soften the more you roll them – provides comfort to Ericka, who is now a full-time milliner.

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Growing up in landlocked Montana, one of Ericka’s earliest childhood ambitions was to work as a marine biologist. That yearning passed, and when she enrolled in a number of communications classes at college, it was in hopes of becoming a news anchor. But she realized quickly that the nervousness she experienced while standing in front of a camera wasn’t something she could conquer – and that craving too passed.

I’m lucky because my mom paved the way. You prove yourself and prove that you know what you are talking about.”

“Sanding hats is a good childhood memory, like having a blanket,” said Ericka, the owner of Montana Mad Hatters in Twin Bridges. “It’s been my favorite part as an adult hatmaker.”

Ericka eventually returned to hats, first working under mother, Sheila Kirkpatrick-Massar, a notable hatmaker, who up until a couple of years ago based her business in Twin Bridges. Ericka’s plan was to start her own operation where she lived in Wisdom. For a brief time, mother and daughter worked in two separate locations: Ericka started the hatmaking process and Sheila completed it and fitted all the customers. But after Sheila closed her shop, a series of events yanked Ericka out of Wisdom and pulled her back to Twin Bridges.

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At 33, Ericka is combating preconceptions that are both genderbased and generational, finding that most men, especially seniors, have a hard time deferring to a woman, especially to one who appears to be even younger than her age.

“I’m lucky because my mom paved the way,” said Ericka. “You prove yourself and prove that you know what you are talking about. I’ve learned to stand my ground a little more and to be persuasive.“ Perhaps her mother understands the importance of the role of the hat in the cowboy way of life more than most.

In fact, she built her first one more than 40 years ago. Her daughter’s involvement in the craft wasn’t something she had predicted.

“My whole goal as a single parent, raising Ericka, was to buy this building and sell the business with it for retirement, and I never thought that any of the kids wanted to take it over,” Sheila said.

In the fall of 2017, Ericka returned to the same building that her mother had shuttered. She hauled in the boxes of old hat fitting blocks and plugged the equipment back in. Her learning curve was admittedly steep.

Ericka felt intimidated by the prospect of having to fill such large boots. After all, Sheila, who was inducted into the Cowgirl Hall of Fame in 1992, had built hats for celebrities and a number of current male hatmakers have learned the fine points of their profession from her. From the start, however, Ericka has been determined to prove that she’s not just riding on her mom’s coattails. Like that little girl who pitched the feathers in the air, she’s parked in her mother’s footsteps; yet, she has her own personality and passion.

“I want to make my own mark, my own way, and prove that I can make a good hat. This was not just inherited, but to make it my own.”

Business is still a challenging world and Sheila is constantly learning on the job. But no matter what is asked of her, there is little at this point that Ericka can’t either figure out or improvise, and if she gets into a jam, Sheila lives less than 15 minutes away. Hatmaking is the kind of love that needs testing – and Ericka knows that it is real.

“I’ve gotten a little more backbone for it than I did before.

I don’t get quite as intimidated when people come and pick up their hats.”

As a matter of fact, Ericka’s backbone holds firm enough to ensure the completion of each new task, her overall knowledge of the trade seemingly satisfactory to both client and kin.

“I just had a guy message me the other day,” Sheila said.

“He said, ‘tell Ericka I got my hat. I love it! It’s perfect. Tell her I tried it out at a wedding. It’s awesome.’ I shared that message with her, and that gives me great pride.”

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I want to make my own mark, my own way, and prove that I can make a good hat. This was not just inherited, but to make it my own.”

— ERICKA KIRKPATRICK

SPRING 2020 // 51

COLORFUL CHARACTER THE SWEETHEART OF SWEET GRASS COUNTY

Jean Duffey gently rocked in the shade of her deck, as she read the paper and enjoyed a cup of coffee.

“I love it here,” she said. “It’s so tranquil. Just look across the meadow, that’s about as pastoral as it gets.”

Jean’s flock of sheep grazed nearby and her one-eyed dog, Imagene, lounged contentedly at her side. Jean has spent almost her entire life on the Duffey Ranch, which was established in 1906 and is located on Deer Creek outside of Big Timber.

She’s a grandmother, a great grandmother, a vocal Republican, conservative Lutheran, a pillar in the community and a mother figure to many.

“I suppose I could be called stubborn,” she laughed, “and maybe that’s why I’m still around. I like to stay busy. I’m afraid if I slow down, that’s when I’ll shut down!”

Jean lives at the family homestead where she and her late husband raised five children. After the death of her in-laws and husband, she remodeled the original log home, added on to it, and for years it was a popular bed and breakfast.

“It’s been fun for me,” she said. “We’ve had weddings, retreats and family reunions here. It’s been a wonderful place and I’ve enjoyed sharing it.”

A heart attack two years ago threatened to slow the 87 year old woman down.

“It was a bad one,” she admitted. “The doctor said it was what they call a ‘widow maker.’” Usually one of her daughters checks in on her daily, but on that day, neither of them was available so Jean decided to drive herself to the doctor in Big Timber. She was immediately flown to Billings.

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“I guess it was more serious than I thought!” she said.

Jean has recovered well and believes it’s due to refusing to slow down. She loves her sheep and just added several more ewes and two rams to her growing flock. “I like to do chores, look after the sheep, irrigate, anything I can get away with.”

Her children are a large part of why she still lives on the ranch after all these years.

“Mary Ann and Tom do try to rein me in now and then,” she laughed, referring to one of her daughters and son-in-law.

Her other three daughters and son take turns coming home to help throughout the year.

The bed and breakfast is no longer operating except for special occasions, which includes two weeks in late June when the entire family converges on the ranch. “It’s my favorite time,” Jean said with a smile, “Everyone stays here. The kids play in the creek and there’s lots of visiting. We fix lots of food and just enjoy our time together.”

Reflecting back, Jean said, “I’ve outlived almost all of my friends, but I feel like they left me with their kids and I love that. I have so enjoyed becoming friends with the children of my friends. There are so many of them that are ambitious and doing good things!

I like to encourage them because their parents aren’t around to do it.”

It’s important to Jean to remain in contact with her family. “I talk to them often,” she said. “I like to stay in touch. There’s nothing that beats a sit down talk over a cup of coffee.”

On this day, Jean’s list of things to do included irrigating. She fired up the ATV and called for her dog. Bouncing across the hay field and going through two barbed wire gates doesn’t stop her

WRITTEN BY CYD HOEFLE // PHOTOGRAPH BY STU HOEFLE

from checking the water multiple times per day and adjusting the valves to make sure that the area she was irrigating was covered enough.

“I’m pretty tough,” she said, “and really, if it’s my time to go, I’m ready. Really I am.”

She had this advice for enjoying life: “Just enjoy it. Don’t get stressed out over things.

Stay active and connected and try to laugh every day.”

Editor's Note: It is with a tremendously

heavy heart that we share that just before we went to print, we received word that Jean had passed away. Jean lived life fully, she loved deeply and laughed openly. She will be missed greatly by her family and friends and those that were fortunate enough to have been touched by her over the years. Our condolences to the family.

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OUT

ABOUT CRISS CROSSING THE REGION

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1★ You’re never too young to enjoy Montana. Our granddaughter Gray Cydney Hoefle, age 3, is learning a family favorite.

2★ Our motto is zigzagging around the state looking for stories!

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3★ What an honor to spend time with Haven Meged…

4★ …and Ty Erickson 5★ Both cowboys being honored at the first rodeo of 2020 in Great Falls

6★ The debut of our magazine started at the NILE show in Oct

7★ Go Bobcats! They made it to the playoffs!