over gently rolling dunes to a bottlegreen bay perfect for stand-up paddleboarding. It’s bliss and an hour easily passes. But, like the Monkey Mia dolphins, there’s more to see.
TIDAL HISTORY Not far away, the ebb and flow of the ocean reveals a fascinating history. To the unwitting, Hamelin Pool is like many other stretches of Australian coastline; low tide exposes a seabed pockmarked with rocks and irregular shapes. But, if you do your research, you’re bound to be impressed by the Hamelin Pool stromatolites, said to be the oldest and largest living fossils on Earth. “The organisms thrive in the area’s hypersaline water, which is twice as salty as normal seawater,” says Elisabeth McLellan from non-profit organisation Bush Heritage Australia. ”They provide a living laboratory to study how life first began and evolved on Earth.” For an idea of what Earth may have looked like 3.7 billion years ago, visit
Fact File RAC Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort parksandresorts.rac. com.au/monkey-mia Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions dbca.wa.gov.au Hamelin Station hamelinstationstay.com.au Bush Heritage Australia bushheritage.org.au
Hamelin Pool at low tide for great views from a jetty. To make the most of the fossils and Shell Beach, it’s worth unhitching the caravan or nabbing one of the motel-style shearers’ quarters at nearby Hamelin Station, a 200,000-hectare red-dirt property owned by Bush Heritage Australia and managed in partnership with the traditional owners. In the evenings, travellers gather to share stories in the communal kitchen and dining area. They hatch plans to journey to Steep Point, the westernmost spot on mainland Australia, and learn about the station’s flora and fauna, which includes several threatened species such as the malleefowl, the Hamelin skink and the western grasswren. These species and the fact the reserve is protected are just two reasons this part of Australia is a special place. “I love being on Hamelin Station Reserve,” says Elisabeth. “It’s ‘big country’ – big skies, big landscapes, big potential. There’s space to be inspired, to connect with nature, to dream big and to reflect on what’s really important in life.” I couldn’t have said it better myself. TB
Photos: Ben Parkhurst
Getaway
VISITORS CRUNCH OVER GENTLY ROLLING DUNES TO A BOTTLE-GREEN BAY. DEC 2019/JAN 2020
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