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10 PROJECT LUXURY & ART
Dear Reader, H
Publisher Project Luxury Ltd., Bergstrasse 25, 8702 Zollikon, Switzerland www.projectluxury.com Editorial Editor in Chief: Ina Dederer Managing Editor: Natalie Trevis Contributors Scott Preston, Kelly Dunning, David Layzelle, Hilary Mills, Amy Armstrong, Tom Cropper, Cyril Demaria, Željko Dražović, Anja Harris, Emma Phoenix, Mike Chase, Karin Mugnaini, Emanuela Nardini
General Advertising Enquiries and Subscription Service Ina Dederer +41 79 380 84 23 email@example.com Regional Sales Manager Monaco Sandro Trovato +33 6 07 93 42 97 firstname.lastname@example.org The Project Luxury & Art Magazine is published quarterly in English. Project Luxury & Art is a brand of Project Luxury Ltd. and the entire content is copyrighted. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine, including text, photographs, illustration, advertising layouts or other graphics may be reproduced in any way without prior written consent of Project Luxury & Art Magazine. The Publisher and Editor are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to Project Luxury & Art Magazine’s right to edit. Copyright 2017, Project Luxury Ltd.
Ina Dederer CEO and Publisher Project Luxury & Art
Photo: Ani Wehrli; Cover: miramiska/123rf
Graphics Liz Krivitsky
ere at Project Luxury & Art we’ve spent a lot of time thinking about where we want to go this summer. Not only do we want to feel the fine grains of white sand between our toes as the waves lap the nearby shore, but we want to enrich our minds and bodies with cultural experiences, exploring the best in emerging art, inspirational art fairs, and exquisite craftsmanship from around the world. It’s often when we step out of the daily grind of work to travel that we find the time and space to make important life decisions. A fresh vista offers inspiration and reminds us that the worlds we create for ourselves are but a small slice of the human experience. What better way to re-calibrate than with a journey into the heart of nature? Join us on safari into the wilderness of Tanzania and Namibia in our travel feature which explores landscapes from the Serengeti Park to the Ngorogono Crater to the Skeleton Coast – each one a unique wonder in its own right. The accompanying mesmerising images are guaranteed to inspire a sense of wanderlust. Alternatively, find your zen and perfect the art of seclusion at the idyllic Six Senses Zil Payson in the Seychelles or aboard the exclusive hand-crafted sailboat, Amandira, on an Aman cruise around Indonesia – from the waters of Komodo National Park to the Raja Ampat Islands. Tranquillity is only a flight away. For luxurious distraction closer to home, we sit down with designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce to explore the operatic haute couture collection for men known as Alta Sartoria. Borne of the demand of the modern gentleman for made-to-measure garments, incorporating the expert artistry of traditional couture, the collection reminds us that the best things in life are worth waiting for. In an increasingly fast-paced digital fashion world, the unapologetic majesty of Alta Sartoria provides a welcome counterbalance that harks back to a more elegant and less impulsive era. Wherever you travel to this summer – be it in body, soul, style, or imagination – we wish you bon voyage.
12 PROJECT LUXURY & ART
ARTIST PROFILES 18
GLOBAL WONDERS Explore the majestic work of Lori Park
22 WALKING THE LINE BETWEEN OP ART
AND POP ART Marcos Marin captures a moment in time
26 THE ELEMENT OF ABSTRACTION
We talk to abstract artist Paco Vila Guillén
28 INTO THE BLUE
With Zsuzsanna Udvarhelyi’s latest exhibition
GOOD TO KNOW 30 ENDLESS EVOLUTION AT VOLTA BASEL ‘17
The innovative art fair to visit this summer
32 TWO DECADES OF FONDATION BEYELER
Celebrating with Switzerland’s most popular art museum
ART PHOTOGRAPHY Our guide to making the perfect investment
36 A PHOTOGRAPH SPEAKS A THOUSAND WORDS A look at some of the most valuable photographic works ever sold 38 ART FAIR CALENDAR
Summer’s premier art fairs
42 THE OPERATIC WORLD OF ALTA SARTORIA
Haute couture for men by Dolce&Gabbana
RUNWAY 46 STYLE FROM TOKYO
An interview with street style photographer Rei Shito
48 SUMMER SWIMEAR MUSE
From glamourous to sporty, there’s a beach tribe for everyone
50 MUST HAVES
Six pages of the covetable trends you need to know about this summer
56 FASHION CALENDAR
International fashion weeks you cannot miss
© All photo credits are mentioned in the articles
34 THINGS TO KNOW WHEN BUYING FINE
14 PROJECT LUXURY & ART
Lifestyle 76 GROOMED TO PERFECTION LUXURY TRENDS 60 EMERALD DREAMS
Gems to make you green with envy
64 MOVE WITH THE TIMES
The standout timepieces of 2017
Safe deposit boxes for your precious treasures
BEAUTY 72 A DIAMOND ON EVERY FINGER
A diamond manicure by Seoul’s celebrity nail artist
74 SEEKING LUMINOSITY
The secret to glowing skin
The latest innovations in men’s grooming
78 SUMMER BEAUTY: A MODEL
RECOMMENDS Ruth Crilly talks us through her summer beauty regime
DINING 80 DECIPHERING THE ENIGMA
An audience with legendary Spanish chef Albert Adrià
84 BOTANICALS AND BATHTUBS
The connoisseur’s guide to gin
DESIGN 86 SKYSCRAPER CITY
The Bryant in NYC by Sir David Chipperfield
© All photo credits are mentioned in the articles
70 UNDER LOCK AND KEY
16 PROJECT LUXURY & ART
102 BY INVITATION ONLY
The secretive world of invitation only airline loyalty programmes
AUTOMOBILES 106 WHEN DREAMS COME TRUE
YACHTS 88 THE LAST TABOO
Arctic ice is no problem for this mega-yacht
90 THE LUCKY SHIP: SUERTE
Classic Italian design by Tankoa Yachts
94 THE MAN BEHIND THE SUPER-YACHT
Yacht designer and sailor Philippe Briand has shaped an industry
108 POWER & GRACE
Style and speed embodied in the Lamborghini Murciélago LP640 Versace
110 BMW MOTORRAD
The future starts here
112 A GAME OF KINGS AND PRINCES
Get ready for the Monte-Carlo Polo Cup 2017
96 ZEN IN THE SKY
The McLaren 720S brings a dream to life
Explore the Kyoto Airship by Embraer
100 BUSINESS JET MARKET VALUES TRENDS The experts compare trends in 2007 vs. 2017
114 GADGETS & MORE
The season’s essential lifestyle technology
116 SMART HOMES
Homes for smart people
118 MORPHEUS GOD OF DREAMS
A must-see Zaha Hadid-designed hotel in Macau
© All photo credits are mentioned in the articles
IN THE AIR
FOURNISSEUR BREVETÉ DE S.A.S. LE PRINCE SOUVERAIN DE MONACO
couture carpet F L O O R
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120 126 128 136
Business Travel 120 INTO THE WILD
A guide to chic safaris in Tanzania and Namibia An Aman cruise is unlike any other
128 A BALI ESCAPE
The Banyan Tree delivers pure retreat
132 THE ART OF SEEKING SECLUSION
Practice makes perfect at Six Senses Zil Payson in the Seychelles
136 JET-SETTING PETS
Because your pet deserves a holiday too
PROPERTY INVESTMENT Invest wisely in these key markets
142 FAST-FORWARDING LUXURY:
BETWEEN ANALOG AND DIGITAL Is there such a thing as digital luxury?
144 PAYMENT PLATFORMS: A FLAWED
DIGITAL SOLUTION? We investigate whether PayPal and similar platforms protect consumers
146 SMART PHILANTHROPY
From hookworm to bookworm with the UBS Optimus Foundation
BUSINESS PROFILES 150 TRAVIS KALANICK
Co-founder and CEO of Uber
152 MARK FOSTER GAGE
The avant guardian of architecture
Â© All photo credits are mentioned in the articles
126 TAKE TO THE SEAS IN TIMELESS STYLE
138 THE BEST EUROPEAN CITIES FOR
LEGENDS ARE FOREVER
CHRONOMASTER I El Primero Open
PROJECT LUXURY & ART 20
GLOBAL WONDERS LORI PARK IS AN AMERICAN ARTIST AND SCULPTOR, LIVING AND WORKING IN MARRAKECH. HER WORKS ARE INFUSED WITH THE VIBRANCY AND COLOUR THAT SHE HAS ENCOUNTERED IN NORTH AFRICA, AND STRONGLY REFLECT HER FASCINATION WITH TEXTURE AND MOVEMENT, AS WELL AS THE SOURCE OF MUCH OF HER INSPIRATION: NATURE.
The Silk Weaver at Sotheby’s 2014 Beyond Limits exhibition at the Duke of Devonshire’s estate, Chatsworth House, UK
Photos: courtesy of Sotheby‘s; lucaealephotoandvideo
ori Park creates sculptures in many diverse materials, casting in bronze and glass, using mixed media with paper, resin, cloth, wax and clay. She crafts suspended installations such as large flying wire figures (hung on monofilament) and sometimes ‘floating architecture’ installations composed of hundreds of suspended wire sculptures all interacting through movement. Park also works in sheet copper and brass, and constructs box collages and collages. To add further to her range, she paints magnificent, abstract canvases, working between studios in the US, UK and Morocco. Park, who holds a Master’s Degree from Harvard University and a Bachelor’s Degree from Evergreen State College in Washington State, fully embraces all aspects of her life of artistry in Marrakech. She shares her love and talent for art by volunteering as an art teacher at a Berber girls’ school in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco and has also taught art at a school in the Medina, immersing herself deeply in her environment. Many of Park’s sculptures and installations relate to the natural world in some way and are joyously filled with movement. Other pieces speak to a moment in time (such as Eat the War, a bronze Minotaur consuming small soldiers) and the questions of culture, human nature, human condition and existence. All, however, are a celebration of life contained within the natural world. “I am fascinated by the texture and movement of life as it is held within the pulse of nature,” says Park, who spent years working in the environmental field. “My art changed dramatically after I began working in Marrakech, fed by new cultural influences.” Her large dress-like female form sculptures and ‘textural panels’ emerged from the studio in Marrakech, fusing a human language of dance, movement and energy with nature. These works display a force of sensuous energy with their flowing cascades of texture, layers of colour and energy, all embedded with roses and palm fronds, as well as found cultural identity pieces.
RADIANCE FIGURES Park’s seven Radiance Figures – the textured female, dress-like figures characterised by their sense of flow and suggestiveness – formed the core of her 2007 solo show at the Museum of Marrakech. The figures
Lori Park installing Golden Torso
combined dance as a metaphor for the natural world and spiritual, cultural belief systems (including for example, the seven chakras). The model for Silk Weaver was part of this series. Patinated in cornflower blue, a rich hue inspired by Novalis, a deep tone associated with romance in literature, and decorated with carved roses, Silk Weaver is a beautiful and strong expression of romance and femininity. The cascading layers of blue bronze crumble to the ground in a waterfall of texture while the bronze mesh, forming the upper torso of the figure, adds a sensitive and fragile element. The sculpture was later selected for inclusion in Sotheby’s world-renowned exhibition of monumental sculpture, Beyond Limits, held at the Duke of Devonshire’s ancestral home, Chatsworth House in England in 2014, alongside works by sculptors Aristide Maillol, Mark Quinn, Giacomo Manzù, Eduardo Chillida, Xu Bing and Beverly Pepper. Aside from its scale and beauty, there is a deeper message of female camaraderie in Silk Weaver.
PROJECT LUXURY & ART 22
Suspended Spiral in Violet/Gold
Copper Sheet Panel
In 2012, the work was exhibited in Spitalfields, which was Park’s first major public display in London. It was dedicated to honouring the silk-weaving women of the East London district. Historically, the silk weavers of Spitalfields – largely Parisian Huguenot refugees arriving in the late 17th century – had a hugely positive impact on the financial and social development of East London, not to mention its fashion. The importation of foreign glossy silks in competition with the newly-resident weavers was even banned by law.
Going Deeper # 2
not weavers. And, in the same way that the history of Spitalfields has been indelibly changed and influenced by the creativity of another culture, Park’s exposure to Marrakech, a hotbed of artistic exploration, has inspired her own sense of artistry and development. Park’s works have been exhibited in solo and group exhibitions in London, Berlin, Mallorca, Bermuda, Washington DC, Ashland, Oregon, Belfast and at the Marrakech Biennale amongst others, and featured in the UK National Collection. She has won many awards and prizes in both Europe, North America and beyond, including the ‘Femme, Art, Climat’ trophy for her art ex-
Photos: courtesy of Lori Park
Yet, by the 1700s, linen and calicoes began to gain in popularity at the expense of traditional silks. In protest, mobs of angry silk weavers took to the streets in 1719, dousing in ink any woman found to be wearing the newly fashionable fabrics. Inevitably, the Spitalfields weavers’ monopoly on the silk industry could no longer be sustained, particularly by the mid-19th century when a treaty permitted imports of duty-free French silks. The successes and trials of this community of women are celebrated in the anonymity and movement of Park’s sculpture, truncated by its delicate torso. Inspired by Park’s homage to the Spitalfields women, residents have launched a campaign to install a permanent sculpture as a lasting monument to the Hugue-
MANY OF PARK’S SCULPTURES AND INSTALLATIONS RELATE TO THE NATURAL WORLD IN SOME WAY AND ARE JOYOUSLY FILLED WITH MOVEMENT.
ploring the subject of climate change at the United Nations COP22 Summit in Marrakech in November 2016. Park also participated in a solo and a group show in the Green Zone at COP22, presenting a large sculpture depicting Planet Earth (in concrete), a series of botanical/ found object prints from eight countries (‘camera-less photography’), a white Radiance Figure sculpture, and a suspended sea-life wire installation. Her work has been acquired by private collectors for inclusion in prestigious collections including those of His Royal Highness the King of Morocco, his sister Princess Lalla Meryem, The Museum of Marrakech, The Royal Bank of Scotland, Baron and Baroness von Schroder Collection, The Marquess of Bath, Don Pedro Serra Collection and the Peggy Cooper Cafritz Collection. www.loriparkart.com
Icarus Pegasus and Passenger
PROJECT LUXURY & ART 24
WALKING THE LINE BETWEEN
OP ART AND POP ART
ARTIST AND SCULPTOR MARCOS MARIN BLENDS THE FIGURATIVE AND THE ABSTRACT INTO INGENIOUS OPTICAL ILLUSIONS THAT REACH NEW DIMENSIONS. KNOWN FOR USING GRIDS, PIXILATION AND INVENTIVE LINES TO REVEAL PORTRAITS OF CELEBRITIES AND POLITICAL FIGURES, HE SPEAKS FOR A GENERATION BY PRODUCING WORK THAT IS A TESTAMENT TO OUR FAMEHUNGRY TIMES.
Marcos Marin with his portrait of Picasso
arcos Marin was born in Brazil in 1967 and seemed destined to explore a life of creativity like his parents, an influential movie producer and a singer, before him. At an early age, Marcos showed an interest in music and began taking classical piano lessons at the Music Conservatory in São Paulo. Eventually, his studies brought him to France, where he began to seek a new outlet for his creativity: painting. Victor Vasarely’s art intrigued Marin and undoubtedly left a mark on the young painter, who was still searching for his own style. In 1990, Marin had the opportunity to meet his idol at the Cité des Arts in Paris, an event that would inspire him to thoroughly explore the depths of optical art. During his formative years as a painter, Marcos developed his own arresting visual style within the boundaries of Vasarely’s recognised art movement; the three-dimensional shadows and colour techniques in Marin’s work producing lifelike human images that seemed to live and breathe. In his early twenties, Marin won several awards for his artwork, including the prestigious FIAT Columbus award. A deeper look at Marin’s paintings reveals the analogous influence of pop art. Emerging in the Fifties and flourishing into the Sixties, pop art drew inspiration from sources in popular and commercial culture, like pop music, films and advertising. Likewise, Marin’s iconic portraits often feature current celebrities and pop icons such as Luis Figo, Robert DeNiro and Barack Obama, whom he imbues with an emotional presence by generating a visual surprise for the viewer with trompe l’oeil effects that alter the viewer’s perception of a familiar subject. In this way, a child of the Sixties, Marin reflects and projects the past onto an increasingly disparate and digital future. More literally, his portraits can be interpreted as paying homage to Andy Warhol, who is also featured in one of Marin’s portraits. Marin says, “My paintings do not define a time, but perpetuate a moment of glory that brings about an enchanted perspective.” During the Nineties, Marin dedicated a lot of time to improving cultural relationships between France and his native country of Brazil. At the beginning of the new millennium, Marcos moved to the United States where his career as an artist gained momentum. In 2003, his
first sculpture was displayed at the Arte Americas art fair. Only a year later in 2004, during Art Basel he was invited by Delphine Pastor to come to Monaco, where he now lives, and exhibit his work there. This invitation changed the course of Marin’s career. Over the next several years, he was commissioned to paint the portrait of Grace of Monaco for the Nouveau Musée de
Monaco and to create a public monument to Prince Rainier III, which stands at the entrance to the Fontvieille Circus. Marin’s work has been exhibited in galleries and museums from Moscow to California. He remains one of the most influential artists of his generation and, at fifty years of age, is in his artistic prime, continuing to masterfully walk the line between op art and pop art.
PROJECT LUXURY & ART 26
“MY IDENTITY AND MY PATTERNS EVOLVED TO BECOME EXCLUSIVE, SO THAT MY SIGNATURE IS RECOGNISABLE INSTANTLY. BUT THE REFERENCES TO THE ICONS REMAIN FOREVER, LIKE WARHOL’S CREATIONS.”
Grace Kelly in Monaco
WHO DO YOU BELIEVE LEFT A MORE PROFOUND INFLUENCE ON YOUR WORK, VICTOR VASARELY OR ANDY WARHOL? It’s almost impossible to say, but I think it is Andy Warhol because his iconographic subjects are just so pow-
erful. This is my sincere approach as well, to honour people with art! Vasarely gave me an artistic identity inside the Op Art movement. Afterwards, of course, my identity and my patterns evolved to become exclusive, so that my signature is recognisable instantly. But the references to the icons remain forever, like Warhol’s creations.
Photo: courtesy of Marcos Marin
We took the opportunity to speak with Marcos about his influences, his artistic style and what’s coming next:
that became a landmark for Monaco are probably the most impressive pieces I have created. I love it when someone says, “this is a Marcos Marin,” before they say the name of the person depicted.
Marcos and Picasso
YOUR WORK IS BOTH FIGURATIVE AND ABSTRACT, AND OPTICAL ILLUSIONS ARE AN ESSENTIAL PART OF IT. HOW DO YOU DEFINE A PICTURE AND DOES THE MEANING OF THE PICTURE PLAY A LARGE ROLE IN YOUR WORK AS A PAINTER? Yes! The primary picture gives me the challenge and suggests ideas for a specific optical illusion, sometimes very close to abstraction or hidden in the complexity of the art piece. I love to do abstractions too: geometrics and objects. But taking a picture and working from that is the way. In a portrait, I try to feel the personality of the person and translate that in a way that corresponds with its intensity.
TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR NEXT PROJECT? I’m working now on a very special project. It’s an exhibition for the Naples National Archaeological Museum in Italy. The exhibition is about Magna Grécia (Great Greece) and my pieces – monumental sculptures – ‘paraphrase’ the most important sculptures of Greco-Roman gods in the original Farnese Collection (displayed in the Naples National Archaeological Museum and the British Museum). My co-exhibitor is the late Gianni Versace, who incorporated Magna Grécia elements into his most iconic creations. Gianni Versace is represented by Tony Caravano, who owns one of the largest collections of Versace Magna Grécia items in the world. The exhibition is curated by Sabina Albano. www.artmarcosmarin.com
HOW DOES YOUR WORK REFLECT HOW YOU SEE YOURSELF AS AN ARTIST? Some portraits really represent what I understand. In those portraits I see perfection or full accomplishment in art and that gives me that sensation of, “ok, I’m an artist for real”. I’m very picky with myself as an artist and I see when something has a strong “opera prima”, or excellence! And of course we become part of the art piece, the creation! TELL US ABOUT SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE WORKS. The portrait of Picasso, the Marilyn Monroe in very large lines, the oval portrait of Hitchcock and of course the endless beauty of Grace in a full body image sculpture
PROJECT LUXURY & ART 28 Accumulation 2011
THE ELEMENT OF
ABSTRACTION WE TALK TO VALENCIA-BORN ARTIST PACO VILA GUILLÉN ABOUT HIS INFLUENCES, HIS TRAVELS AND THE HIDDEN CLUES IN ALL LIVING THINGS.
WHEN WAS THE MOMENT THAT YOU KNEW YOU WOULD BECOME AN ARTIST? Ever since I remember I have had a pencil, a pen, a brush or whatever it takes to make art in my hands. As a child, I always preferred to dismantle the toys that were given to me and create my own by mixing the pieces.
IS IT EASY TO SWITCH OFF FROM THE INSTINCTIVE DESIRE TO CREATE? I feel the need to be creative all of the time. I paint, draw, write and make visual poetry. Being selftaught is a hard way to be an artist but I took that path in trying to avoid what I call ‘artist factories’. WHAT IS THE KEY INSPIRATION FOR YOUR WORK? My art is all about abstract patterns and automatic drawing. All that nature offers has always attracted me. Looking very closely at the surface of plants, algae, fun-
Photo: courtesy of Paco Villa Guillén
aco Vila Guillén is a Spanish artist and visual poet whose work is a hypnotising mix of the intricate, obsessive and repetitive. Winner of many national and international art prizes, including first prize in the Ideaborn art contest in Barcelona in 2015, he is inspired, among other things, by the minutiae of nature.
gi, all kinds of living things, brings us an infinite world of patterns, forms and shapes. An artistic mind can find all of those hidden clues and unveil them to create beautiful things that bring the viewer joy. I consider the artist to be a kind of translator of that unknown language that is everywhere and in everything, making it accessible to the public.
TELL US MORE ABOUT HOW YOUR TRAVELS HAVE INFLUENCED YOUR WORK. Ethnic art is my other main influence. America, Africa and Australia are an inexhaustible source of inspiration. During a trip to the Navajo reservations in Arizona 25 years ago, I had the opportunity to see in person the ancient symbols and graphics painted on the rocks and stretched animal skins. I started the dot and line paintings right there, only to discover later on that what I was doing was quite similar to the techniques of aboriginal Australian artists.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF ART FOR YOU? Since travelling to Australia, my dot paintings, lines and graphic patterns all have meaning to me. They heal me from the stresses of everyday life. Art is more than a necessity for me, it is medicine. I feel really happy Paco Vila GuillĂŠn when an observer or a collector tells me that they experience the same feeling when they see my work. We must not forget that art in any of its forms always makes this world a better place. WHERE CAN WE FIND YOUR WORK? Fortunately, Spain has a reasonable number of art contests. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been playing my chances and winning some prizes and, as a result, I have many pieces of my work spread all over official and private collections in Spain: councils, town halls, local museums, private corporate collections, etc. You can find some of my paintings and drawings too in private collections in the US, Australia, Hong Kong, and many European countries. www.saatchiart.com/PacoVila
PROJECT LUXURY & ART 30
The Blue Ballerina
INTO THE BLUE WITH
ZSUZSANNA UDVARHELYI Z
suzsanna Udvarhelyi, known as Zsud, is a Hungarian artist based in Monaco who remains captivated by the artistic transformation of souls into canvases. Her feminine portraits capture the strength and beauty of the female form and never more so than in her current exhibition, Mistral Bleu, taking place in the beautiful town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer on the French Riviera. We speak with the artist to explore the meaning behind her work.
WHAT IS THE COMMON THREAD BETWEEN THE WOMEN IN THIS SERIES OF PAINTINGS? I like to capture emotions. I am interested in people who dare to live life fully and deeply.
WHAT IS IT ABOUT THE FEMALE FORM THAT CONSISTENTLY APPEALS TO YOU IN YOUR WORK? I find painting a very intimate practice; my soul wanders into the soul of my models. I find that in female portraits, this energy rises like the tide and makes the figure more prominent. WHAT DO YOU FIND TO BE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IN THE PROCESS OF CREATING YOUR WORK? Painting is, for me, a little bit like dreaming. Once I have the idea, it unfolds for me day by day, as if telling a story. All the details are already there, but sometimes it takes time to reach into the different layers. IS THERE A SENSE OF LIBERATION IN LIFE AS AN ARTIST? Being a painter is both a responsibility and a gift. I am utterly grateful that I know the purpose of my life. Mistral Bleu at Casino de Beaulieu 4 Avenue Fernand Dunan, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, France 12 May - 30 July 2017 www.udvarhelyi.com
Photo: courtesy of Zsuzsanna Udvarhelyi
THE TITLE OF YOUR FORTHCOMING EXHIBITION IS MISTRAL BLEU—TELL US MORE. Mistral Bleu is the title of one of my short films set in the Riviera, telling picturesque stories about the lives of the breezy people of the Côte d’Azur—symbolic pirates and gamblers—and it’s those portraits that will be on display at the exhibition.
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PROJECT LUXURY & ART 32
ENDLESS EVOLUTION AT
VOLTA BASEL '17 VOLTA BASEL 2017 IS A SATELLITE ART FAIR WITH A DIFFERENCE, OFFERING A THOUGHTFUL PLATFORM FOR GALLERIES AND ARTISTS ALIKE TO FOCUS ON WHAT’S REALLY IMPORTANT: ARTISTS AND THEIR WORK.
ince its debut in 2005 VOLTA Basel has secured its role as the ever-evolving art fair for new international positions. Developed as a collaboration between dealers and friends to fill the void between heavyweight Art Basel and the young art of Liste, it remains friendly, forward-thinking and dynamic. We take a look at how VOLTA Basel has matured over its 13 years as it continues to focus on solo presentations and curated booths. Artistic Director Amanda Coulson tells us more.
WHICH NEW EXHIBITORS ARE YOU MOST EXCITED TO SEE PARTICIPATE THIS YEAR? That’s a bit like asking me which of my children I love more! I’m really pleased, in general, to see how far we are reaching into Asia, with representation from Kyoto (COHJU Contemporary Art), Taipei (Nunu Fine Art), Kuala Lumpur (Richard Koh Fine Art), and Hong Kong (Galerie Ora-ora), and also artists such as Sopheap Pich (represented by Tyler Rollins Fine Art in New York), who will also be participating in the main exhibition at this year’s Venice Biennale. HOW HAS VOLTA BASEL MATURED OVER THE PAST DECADE? I think we’ve matured as an organisation: it was all very do-it-yourself in the beginning, with me overseeing the
Photos: courtesy of VOLTA
WHAT’S NEW FOR VISITORS TO VOLTA BASEL IN 2017? One of the great things about VOLTA is that, as a satellite, there is the inevitability of change every year as galleries ‘graduate’ and move on to bigger projects. Main fairs are the ultimate goal and final destination, so once a gallery is in they essentially never leave, and this poses challenges for how to keep those fairs ‘fresh’. We don’t have to struggle in that way. This year
we already have ten new galleries we have never worked with (out of 70 total exhibitors), so there will be a lot of new discoveries for visitors to experience.
ART Johanna Capillure presents works by Andrea Canepa to collectors
Alpin Arda Bağcık, Abizol, 2016, presented by Zilberman Gallery, Istanbul/Berlin
Ulu Braun, Sonnenmilch, 2016, presented by krupic kersting || KUK
VIP desk and doing press work, bouncing the baby on my knee, while my husband was up a ladder hammering in booth signs, but the result today is still the same, which is great production values and an eye for detail. IS VOLTA BASEL’S MISSION STILL THE SAME AS IT WAS AT ITS INCEPTION? Obviously we’ve grown—in exhibitor and visitor numbers and in locations— but in many senses the mission is still the same. It was never our goal to be young or hip; there are other fairs doing that just fine. We were always interested in making serious discoveries and that has nothing to do with age, since many artists don’t hit their stride until they have matured. We also still strongly support mother galleries who work with artists early on in their careers. HOW AND WHEN DO YOU MEASURE THE SUCCESS OF ANY PARTICULAR SEASON OF VOLTA BASEL?
There are obvious factors: visitor numbers, ticket sales and so on, but one also immediately senses a mood during the first few days. How fast people walk the aisles, how quickly sales are negotiated. When the market is high there is more of a frisson and when it is slower, it is all a bit more leisurely. Some years, galleries will bring particularly strong work and you just know, in your gut, during installation, that it will be a great year. Other years some galleries might bring a new body of work by an artist you accepted but the new work is a disaster, which you didn’t expect. So there are always curve balls! THE SOLO BOOTHS AND PRESENTATIONS ARE A KEY ELEMENT OF VOLTA BASEL. WHY DOES THAT REMAIN SO IMPORTANT TO THE ETHOS OF THE FAIR? The whole idea of VOLTA was to be a respite from the main events. Reducing exhibitor numbers and the number of artists in each booth was always part of the concept, as this automatically makes for a less frenetic experience. But there is also a more important reason: many of our galleries are not as famous as those at the main event and this is their chance to show new collectors what they do on their home turf. That’s why we require booths to be curated around a theme in the same way that they would be at a gallery show. The solo concept grew out of this and has become more popular as dealers have found it to be the most compelling way to connect an artist to a new audience. VOLTA Basel 12-17 June 2017 Markthalle, Basel, Switzerland www.voltashow.com
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AN ANNIVERSARY OF INSPIRATION, CREATIVE VISION AND ORIGINALITY AT SWITZERLAND’S MOST POPULAR ART MUSEUM.
ne of the world’s most beautiful museums, Fondation Beyeler is renowned for its large collection of major works of modern art. Amassed by Ernst and Hildy Beyeler from the late 1950s onwards, the collection boasts work from such influential and ground-breaking artists as Matisse and Monet, to Rothko and Bacon. From its inauguration in 1997, the Fondation Beyeler has presented its collections in an arresting and diverting manner in a custom Renzo Piano-designed museum, overlooking the majestic Tüllinger Hills.
PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE: 20 YEARS OF INFLUENCE Fondation Beyeler is marking its 20th anniversary this year with a series of exhibitions celebrating its long-standing dedication to art. Throughout 2017, the museum will feature exhibitions of the work of Claude Monet, Wolfgang Tillmans and Paul Klee, as well as its own extensive Beyeler Collection. As one of Switzerland’s most visited art museums, Fondation Beyeler has not only been a platform for representing the history of the inspirational artists of its collection in recent decades but it has also been a force for inspiring future genera-
Photos: courtesy of Fondation Beyeler; Mark Niedermann; Niggi Bräuning; Galerie Buchholz, Berlin/Cologne, Maureen Paley, London, David Zwirner, New York
TWO DECADES OF
Wolfgang Tillmans, Leaf for Architects, 2013
Ernst and Hildy Bayeler
tions of art lovers. Fondation Beyeler encourages young visitors to the museum with ‘The Young Art Club’, which boasts 233 members, and ‘The Art Lab’, which offers young people aged between 15 and 25 the chance to experience museum work as part of a project group.
KEY ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITIONS The first exhibition of the year, which ran from 22 January to 28 May, featured Monet, examining “the reflections and shadows in his oeuvre”. This exhibition aimed to demonstrate how Monet cleverly experimented with changing light and colour effects in the course of a day and in different seasons. A pioneer of his time, Monet was able to evoke magical moods through his unique
observations. Fifty masterpieces of Monet’s work were displayed, sourced from private collections and renowned museums. The Wolfgang Tillmans exhibition followed and will run from May 28 to October 1, 2017. This summer exhibition places its focus on the studio as a working space and as a social environment, where Tillmans lived for much of his life. A compilation of studio pictures, still lifes and portraits will chart how he created a name for himself in the early 1990s through to today. His iconic photographs captured the attitude of youth culture for an entire generation. From 1 October 2017 to 21 January 2018, the Paul Klee exhibition will show a previously little explored aspect of Paul Klee’s work, namely abstraction. In the twentieth century, the development of abstract art became a key theme for many European artists, Klee included. Ernst Beyeler championed Klee’s art and this collection will offer around 100 works from his career, covering his familiar topics of nature, architecture, music and written characters. It also features some rarely exhibited works. The Beyeler Collection will also be rotated from three different perspectives: a look back at the first exhibition, a look at the present, and then a forward gaze. The first exhibition will reconstruct the collection’s original hanging at the Fondation Beyeler’s inauguration, documenting its point of departure. The second will focus on the extension of the collection, with a more contemporary face. The third will emphasise loans from private collections that are closely associated with the museum. Fondation Beyeler has already achieved so much in its two decades and the artistic legacy of Ernst and Hildy Beyeler is certain to live on for many more.
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THINGS TO KNOW WHEN BUYING FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY
FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY IS A DISTINCT AND FLOURISHING SECTOR OF THE ART MARKET, BUT JUST WHAT SHOULD YOU CONSIDER WHEN COMPILING A PHOTOGRAPHY COLLECTION?
hotography is an art. It is easy to forget this sometimes because there are so many photographic images around us. Digital photography has changed the world of photography, but not by as much as people commonly believe. Yes, it is easier to find a photo that you want today than it was twenty or thirty years ago. However, the most reliable way of obtaining a fine art print is still by going to auction houses such as Sotheby’s or Christie’s, or galleries like Brancolini Grimaldi in London or the Howard Greenberg gallery in New York. This is still the only sure way to guarantee that your print is the real deal.
ORIGINALITY IS NON-EXISTENT, BUT AUTHENTICITY IS REAL Ask questions. The first question that you should be asking yourself when thinking about obtaining a new piece for your collection should be: Is this work authentic? And, from an aesthetic perspective, does it offer something genuinely fresh in its genre? Aim to know every detail about the image: Where and when was it taken? What does it mean to the photographer? And, is it part of a series? This is the best way to ensure that the work you are buying is not, in fact, a cheap reproduction. Authenticity means that the artwork contains something unique that only this photographer could have
expressed. This personal mark is what gives the photograph the extra value that differentiates it from the sea of pictures that are being produced daily.
Photos: courtesy of kantver/Vijay Narayanan/anyaberkut/sanches1980/123rf
IDEAS MATTER, BUT SKILL GIVES A FINISHING TOUCH A good idea poorly executed is just as bad as a bad idea. Even though you may be standing in front of a high-resolution picture with vibrant colours, this does not necessarily mean that you are looking at a work of art. Knowledge of the visual language, organisation of the pictorial space, and the way in which the photographer uses light are far more important than the camera or lens that the photographer has used. The skill level of an artist can easily be seen if you pay attention to these basic elements of a photograph, just as it would with a painting.
VALUABLE FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHS ARE NOT EASY TO OBTAIN The availability of a fine art photographic print is also a huge factor. If an unlimited number of prints are available, then the work in question is not very rare and its
monetary value is lessened (even though you may appreciate its beauty nonetheless). Limited edition prints will surely land you a unique artwork whose investment value will only rise through the years. The technical aspects of a photograph also play a big role in determining its value. The quality of the paper or the type of print contributes to the overall value of the photo. These factors guarantee that the print can stand the test of time and will last for decades, if not centuries, while low quality prints on cheap paper are more likely to deteriorate quickly. Acquiring this information will help you to determine the true value of the artwork that you are thinking of buying.
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Edward Steichen, The Pond–Moonlight, 1904
A PHOTOGRAPH SPEAKS
A THOUSAND WORDS
THE IMPORTANCE AND VALUE OF RARE PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE ART WORLD CONTINUES TO RISE EXPONENTIALLY AS WE ENTER AN INCREASINGLY DIGITAL AGE. EMILY BIERMAN, ASSISTANT VICE PRESIDENT HEAD OF DEPARTMENT, PHOTOGRAPHS, AT SOTHEBY’S IN NEW YORK, TELLS US MORE ABOUT SOME OF THE MOST VALUABLE AND SIGNIFICANT PHOTOGRAPHIC WORKS OF OUR TIME.
HY HAVE SALES OF PHOTOGRAPHY TAKEN OFF IN RECENT DECADES? The photographs market is fairly young in comparison to the traditional books, prints or paintings markets. Sotheby’s New York was, in 1971, the first international auction house to begin regularly scheduled auctions of photographs. In the ensuing nearly five decades, however, the market has really experienced phenomenal growth. The ever-increasing general in-
terest in photography has resulted in increasing connoisseurship amongst collectors, which in turn has paid dividends when terrific rare photographs have come to market. WHICH PHOTOGRAPHS ARE MOST IN DEMAND BY YOUR CLIENTS? Many of the photographs in our auction – such as the Edward Weston Shells and the Lewis Baltz Tract House
Today’s collectors live in an age when digital imagery is ubiquitous. Collectors of photographs, however, are interested in more than just an iconic image – they’re interested in the physical photographic object. Standing before a physical photograph is an entirely different experience than looking at an image online. And, unlike paintings, photography is a medium of multiples that lends itself to being collected.
SOTHEBY’S HAS ACHIEVED SEVEN OF THE TOP TEN RECORDS FOR ANY CLASSIC PHOTOGRAPH SOLD AT AUCTION. THIS INCLUDES THE SIX HIGHEST PRICES:
Herbert Bayer, Lonely Metropolitan, 1932
Photos: courtesy of Sotheby’s New York; Edward Steichen; Herbert Bayer
#24 – have been in private collections for decades and have connections directly back to the artists. Photographs with significant provenance or exhibition history elicit substantial interest from collectors. European Modernist, Surrealist, Classic American and Post-War photographs are heavily sought after. WHAT IS IT THAT MAKES A WORK OF PHOTOGRAPHY VALUABLE? While it remains very much a photographer and image driven market, there are a number of factors we consider when evaluating any photograph. Object quality and condition are of utmost importance. Rarity and a sense of how many other prints may exist is essential, although often difficult to pin down, as photography often is not editioned. Whether a print was made close to the time of the negative or significantly later is essential to know. The medium also plays a part in pricing. For example, there can be distinctions of value between dye-transfer and chromogenic prints and between gelatin silver and platinum prints. These are but a few of the myriad essential factors one considers. IN YOUR EXPERIENCE, WHAT ARE COLLECTORS LOOKING FOR WHEN THEY FIRST START COLLECTING PHOTOGRAPHY?
• Edward Steichen, The Pond–Moonlight, 1904 (Sotheby’s New York, Important Photographs from The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Including Works from the Gilman Paper Company Collection, February 14, 2006). Estimate $700,000 - $1,000,000, sold for $2,928,000. • Edward Weston, Nude, 1925 (Sotheby’s New York, The Quillan Collection of Nineteenth and Twentieth Century Photographs, April 7, 2008). Estimate $600,000 - $900,000, sold for $1,609,000. • László Moholy-Nagy, Fotogramm, 1925 (Sotheby’s New York, A Show of Hands: Photographs from the Collection of Henry Buhl, December 12 and 13, 2012). Estimate $300,000 - $500,000, sold for $1,482,500. • Herbert Bayer, Lonely Metropolitan, 1932 (Sotheby’s New York, A Show of Hands: Photographs from the Collection of Henry Buhl, December 12 and 13, 2012). Estimate $300,000 - $500,000, sold for $1,482,500. • Alfred Stieglitz, Georgia O’Keeffe (Hands), 1919 (Sotheby’s New York, Important Photographs from The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Including Works from the Gilman Paper Company Collection, February 14, 2006). Estimate $300,000 - $500,000, sold for $1,472,000. • Alfred Stieglitz, Georgia O’Keeffe (Nude), 1919 (Sotheby’s New York, Important Photographs from The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Including Works from the Gilman Paper Company Collection, February 14, 2006). Estimate $300,000 - $500,000, sold for $1,360,000.
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RT FAIR CALENDAR
ART ASPEN 2017
May 31st to August 27th, 2017
August 3rd to 6th, 2017
SYDNEY CONTEMPORARY September 7th to 10th, 2017
ART NOCTURNE KNOCKE
June 12th to 17th, 2017
5th to 15th August, 2017
LISTE ART FAIR 2017 June 13th to 18th, 2017
ART BASEL 2017 June 15th to 18th, 2017
Copenhagen Vienna ART COPENHAGEN
New York Marseille June 23rd to 25th, 2017
MASTERPIECE ART FAIR 2017 June 29th to July 5th, 2017
Berlin POSITIONS BERLIN September 14th to 17th, 2017
VIENNACONTEMPORARY 2017 September 21st to 24th, 2017
Barcelona SWAB CONTEMPORARY ART FAIR September 28th to October 1st, 2017
Photos: courtesy of VOLTA Basel
August 25th to 27th, 2017
PHOTOFAIRS September 8th to 10th, 2017
August 25th to 3rd September, 2017
ART HAMPTONS 2017
BASEL’S ART FAIR FOR NEW INTERNATIONAL POSITIONS
MON – SAT JUNE 12 – 17 2017
PREVIEW: MON, JUNE 12 GUEST OF HONOR: 10 AM – 12 PM VIP / PRESS: 12 – 2 PM PUBLIC VERNISSAGE: 2 – 7 PM
PUBLIC HOURS: TUE – SAT, JUNE 13 – 17 10 AM – 7 PM CLOSED ON SUNDAY
MARKTHALLE BASEL SWITZERLAND 3 MINUTE WALK FROM SBB SHUTTLE SERVICE: TO AND FROM ART BASEL TUE – SAT, 12 – 6 PM #VOLTA13 BASEL WWW.VOLTASHOW.COM
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THE OPERATIC WORLD OF
ALTA SARTORIA THE HOUSE OF DOLCE & GABBANA BRINGS EXQUISITE COUTURE TO MENSWEAR IN OPERATIC STYLE IN THE ALTA SARTORIA COLLECTION. PROJECT LUXURY & ART TALKS WITH DESIGNER DUO STEFANO GABBANA AND DOMENICO DOLCE ABOUT THE COLLECTION.
Alta Sartoria 2017
here can be few venues that inspire such awe and reverence for the theatrical than Teatro alla Scala in Milan, and even fewer designers who could hope to compete with its gilded interior. That is until the fashion force known as Dolce & Gabbana descended on the venerable institution to present its couture confections to 300 guests as part of a spectacular three-day extravaganza – not only fashion shows but lavish dinners plucked straight from a Caravaggio, fine jewellery presentations, dancing and private museum tours - known as Alte Artigianalità. “Both the Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria are the highest expression of our creativity: two very challenging but exciting collections,” Stefano Gabbana tells us. “Working for Alte Artigianalità gives us the opportunity to learn new things every time, do research, go further, and explore dream places such as Teatro alla Scala.”
by the great composer, and by virtue of its military red velvet capes, shiny top hats and elaborate silk robes, it brought a crescendo of ornate neoclassical opulence back to La Scala’s stage. “These are clothes that are appropriate for the stage upon which we are showing them,” Stefano Gabbana noted before the show.
HISTORY LIVES ON The history of Teatro alla Scala is inextricably entwined with that of mid-19th century composer Giuseppe Verdi, who gave the world seminal operas such as Rigoletto (1851), La Traviata (1853), Don Carlos (1867) and Aida (1871). Fittingly, the Alta Sartoria collection is influenced Designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce
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A sartorial ode to Giuseppe Verdi
ed half-tail coats, fragile white cravats and high-collared double-breasted waistcoats. Gold embroidery and pailleté on pyjamas, knitwear and robes left elegant trails of Verdi’s annotations and scores; even his face. Yet in amongst the high-concept dramatics were distressed brocade jeans, fur sweatshirts and elegantly crafted modern jackets that signalled an intention for men’s couture to grace streets as well as ballrooms. “Alta Moda is the balance between the extreme attention to details, finishes, proportions, decorations, embroideries and the creation of clothes for trailblazers that our customers want, and want to wear today. This is modernity.” More than ever, the lifestyle-conscious man is seeking the personal touch in his clothing, in a search for the unique and the undiscovered that can become a lifelong quest. “We listen to what our customers want,” Gabbana says. “Sometimes we have to make changes
Don Carlo, manual wristwatch with minute repeater and tourbillon, hand-engraved with sapphire, jade and emeralds
Photos: courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana
“Giuseppe Verdi is the Italian composer we love the most,” says Domenico Dolce. “It has been an honour dedicating our Alta Sartoria collection to him and to his operas. His operas are extraordinary, they tell stories, they bring emotion, like we expect our Alta Sartoria clothes to do.” Italy’s history is never far from the surface of couture collections by its homegrown designers. One need only cast an eye over the Renaissance-inspired intricacies seen at Valentino or the silhouettes reminiscent of Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais at Giambatista Valli in recent seasons. “Verdi and the Teatro alla Scala of Milan, represent two great institutions for us,” adds Gabbana. “They represent Italian history: our music, our art. We really like to attend the opera, it gives a rare emotion whether we go there as spectators or to show our collections.” Literal historical interpretations in the collection includ-
“THE IDEA OF ALTA MODA FOR MEN WAS BORN FROM THE DESIRE OF OUR CUSTOMERS’ HUSBANDS TO HAVE THEIR OWN UNIQUE PIECES TO WEAR ON SPECIAL OCCASIONS.”
if required, or embroider the customer’s name on the leader. In this way our pieces are really unique.”
THE ALTA SARTORIA MAN But, in reality, who is the Alta Sartoria man, living a gilded existence in which astrakhan opera cloaks and bejewelled watches - Alta Orologeria for men comprises four antique-looking horological marvels complete with friezes and bas-reliefs fit for an operatic divo - are necessary wardrobe staples? “The idea of Alta Moda for men was born from the desire of our customers’ husbands to have their own unique pieces to wear on special occasions. And so we began our journey into the Alta Sartoria world,” says Gabbana.
COUTURE DREAMS Inspired and encouraged by the women of the world of couture, more than one of whom nonchalantly sported an actual crown to Dolce & Gababana’s front row, these men are seeking to experience similar fashion nirvana. As a reaction, perhaps, to a recent period in menswear in which understated refinement and min-
imalism – chic sneakers and athleisure in particular has crushed joyful flamboyance. “Men, just like their wives or girlfriends, want to enjoy the dreams made by special textures, magical places and travel,” adds Dolce. “Everything was born from there: it is the pleasure of having a rare item of clothing to wear while playing tennis or even while you are comfortable on your sofa at home.” In every aspect of Alta Sartoria, from the location to the attendees to the priceless accessories, the designers have tapped into a grand emotional expression between man and clothing that may have been, if not missing entirely, then certainly overlooked until now. The menswear fashion season has never had the majestic bookend of a couture week, or even cluster of shows, to provide it with a finale and to offer aspirational techniques, cuts and fabrics that push ready-towear collections that little bit further. The typical massimalismo approach of Dolce and Gabbana may just be changing the mood of menswear. “Our customers are asking us to dream,” says Stefano Gabbana. In Alta Sartoria, the dream becomes reality.
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STYLE FROM TOKYO REI SHITO
STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHER REI SHITO ALWAYS OFFERS A THOUGHTPROVOKING PERSPECTIVE ON INTERNATIONAL FASHION AS SHE TRAVELS THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF STYLISH INNOVATORS. WE FIND OUT WHERE SHE IS TURNING HER LENS THIS SUMMER. vation and her own sartorial experiments have taught her that it’s not what you wear, but how you wear it that defines true personal style. We sit down with Rei to talk about what’s on her fashion-forward horizon this summer. WHAT IS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR SUMMER WARDROBE THIS YEAR? All of the people I captured at Paris Fashion Week and
Photos: courtesy of Rei Shito
orld-renowned street style photographer Rei Shito frequently tops fashion’s Most Influential lists as the barometer of Japanese street fashion. Sharing her work on her site Style from Tokyo and in a book of the same name, she travels the globe capturing the avant-garde with her camera, advising brands and giving talks on the fashion industry from her own unique perspective. A former photographer at street-fashion magazine Fruits, Rei’s years of obser-
Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo A/W 2017. They always give me special style inspiration. HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE, AND HOW DO YOU STAY TRUE TO IT IN THE FAST-CHANGING SEASONS? My style is ‘Tokyo’ style. It’s a mixtured, layered, genderless style, I think. I’ve never cared too much about trends, I just choose what I want to wear. WHICH NEW LABELS WILL BE MAKING AN APPEARANCE IN YOUR SUMMER WARDROBE? Doublet, Keisuke Yoshida, Yohei Ohno and Akiko Aoki. I saw their recent collections at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo and I’m currently obsessed with Doublet. WHAT IS YOUR GO-TO OUTFIT FOR TRAVELLING? I always choose denim on denim when I go to the airport. Jet stretch denim is so easy to wear and so comfortable. WHAT ARE THE FIVE ITEMS YOU ALWAYS PACK WHEN YOU TRAVEL? Fujifilm X-T2 to take pictures, of course; lots of books because I’m a bookworm and really like reading; Aveda Chakra Balancing Body Mist kit to relax and switch off my mind; a Rolex, which is like an amulet for me because I’ve had it since I was a high school student; and Astalift White Perfect UV Clear Solution SPF50, my favourite UV protector. WHAT’S ON YOUR TRAVEL TO-DO LIST THIS SUMMER? I think I’d like to go to Kanazawa and Kaga city in the Ishikawa Prefecture. It’s famous for yummy food (especially the fresh sashimi), high quality traditional culture (including lacquerware and Kutani ware, a style of Japanese porcelain), Kanazawa Castle Park and beautiful Kenrokuen Garden (one of the three greatest gardens in Japan) and onsen (hot springs). I want to enjoy all of them! WHERE DO YOU FIND YOURSELF RETURNING TO OFTEN? Phuket! There are some beautiful and stylish hotels, the people are so kind and the local food is delicious.
The weather is always hot (I like hot weather more than cold) and I can always relax whenever I go there. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORY OF THE SUMMER? Bon dance (a style of Japanese folk dance)! Everyone wears Yukata (kimonos) and dances together to traditional Japanese music. So fun! WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE REST OF 2017? I have many exciting projects coming up in 2017, including another collaboration with Isetan department store, ISETAN x Rei Shito, for whom I have produced some fashion items such as shoes, handbags and a fur stole; it’s so exciting! I’m publishing a travel guidebook in Kanazawa city and I’m hosting a fashion talk event in Singapore (my first seminar abroad). Rei captures the sunset in Phuket, Thailand
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SWIMWEAR MUSE WHEN THE SUN SHINES, OUR THOUGHTS TURN TO ISLAND HIDEAWAYS AND THE JOY OF STEPPING INTO THE SOFT WHITE SAND OF A BEAUTIFUL BEACH. WE ROUND UP THE BEST IN STYLISH SWIMWEAR TO ENSURE THAT YOUR SUMMER GETAWAY DOESNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T LEAVE YOUR STYLE BEHIND. WHICH BEACH STYLE CAPTURES YOUR IMAGINATION THIS SUMMER?
Free-spirited beach lovers rarely let an opportunity to sport a vibrant colour go by, and this summer is no exception. Colour blocked swimwear dominated the s/s17 runways and made waves at Miami Swim Week 2017. This is the summer of the one-piece and the hotter the hue, the better. Multi-toned swimsuits with crisscrossing straps and cleverly placed splices epitomise the trend, while guys can get in on the action with bold-toned single colour shorts and candy stripes.
1. Proenza Schouler 2. Loup Charmant 3. Orlebar Brown 4. Paul Smith 5. Flagpole
If your daily exercise regime doesn’t ever take a vacation, then sportier styles will keep you feeling energised and ready for watersports or beach yoga at a moment’s notice. High-neck swimsuits or surfer-inspired rash vests in tech fabrics like neoprene will offer an advantage in the lap pool and protect skin from the sun, while oversized zip hardware and sporty accessories such as visors, caps and mirrored lens sunglasses will add athletic edge. Invest in styles with go-faster or nautical stripes and keep colours monochromatic to bring a dose of Insta-ready fitness to your break.
Photos: Proenza Schouler, Saint Laurent and Araks at mytheresa.com, Paul Smith and Versace at Figleaves.com
1. Araks 2. Dan Ward 3. Heidi Klein 4. Vilbrequin 5. Melissa Odabash
GLAM SQUAD Wearing fewer clothes doesn’t mean sacrificing personal style. If you favour a more polished appearance that channels the refined glamour of old Hollywood hitting the Riviera, look to luxurious fabrics and intricate cover-ups to make an impact. Cutout swimsuit styles retain sophistication in simple silhouettes without further embellishment, while a large straw hat is a timeless addition to flowing embroidered kaftans. For men, well-cut swim shorts in darker tones and beautiful leather sandals bring the elegance of the boardroom to the beach.
1. Versace 2. Saint Laurent 3. Vilbrequin 4. Talitha 5. Dan Ward
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CHECK MATE 1
6 Lanvin s/s17
1. Dolce&Gabbana Alta Orologeria Nabucco 2. Kingsman 3. Ports 1961 4. DSquared2 5. Buccellati 6. Givenchy
Kingsman, Thom Browne and Haider Ackermann at mrporter.com; Givenchy, Dolce&Gabbana trousers at Harvey Nichols
Life may not be black and white but your style certainly can be. We look to graphic checks to make a bold statement in a monochromatic colour palette that never steers too far away from sophistication. Lanvin takes the lead with checked tailoring in subtly different patterns, brought up to date with technical utilitarian undertones. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to follow suit.
THE NEW ATHLETE
The athleisure trend has transmuted this season into a luxe offering of embellished silk bomber jackets, semi-tailored side-stripe trousers and sporty silhouettes that are far removed from traditional gym gear. Mix in at least one element of tailoring â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whether a trench coat or oversized blazer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to epitomise casual, democratic style with a potent dose of Parisian flair.
1. Thom Browne 2. Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph 3. Dolce&Gabbana 4. Sama Eyewear 5. Ports 1961 6. Haider Ackermann AMI s/s17
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Salvatore Ferragamo s/s17
KINGS OF THE STONE AGE 1
6 1. Loewe 2. Dolce&Gabbana 3. Alexander McQueen 4. Coach 5. Ermenegildo Zegna 6. Brunello Cucinelli
Loewe, Dolce&Gabbana at mrporter.com; Alexander McQueen, Coach at Harvey Nichols; ChloĂŠ at mytheresa.com; Manolo Blahnik at neimanmarcus.com
Neutral tones make vacation packing a breeze and emanate a worldly-wise, well-travelled air that all-white could never hope to achieve. Layer khaki on stone and stick to luxurious tan accessories for a new take on classic style for the modern gentleman.
FASHION John Galliano s/s17
Say goodbye to cutouts and hello to softly sensual sheer fabrics perfect for evening soirées al fresco. Designers at Valentino, Chloé and John Galliano incorporated sheer delights into their collections this season in an ode to summer romance. Add an ethereal ambiance to your wardrobe with an unexpected layer of sheer tulle over slip dresses or a cropped bralette and slim trousers, or embrace full-on glamour with a peekaboo jewel-encrusted gown.
4 1. Chloé 2. Vacheron Constantin 3. Chopard 4. Boucheron 5. Manolo Blahnik 6. Alaïa Paris Blanche
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POWER FLORALS 2
Demna Gvasalia revolutionised our vision of Balenciaga in his first collection for the esteemed house and in doing so gave us one of the prominent trends for summer: the power floral. Wallflowers need not apply when it comes to head-to-toe high-contrast blooms. Take the first step with embroidered accessories in bold - never dainty - forms.
1. Lela Rose 2. Erdem 3. Daou, Phoenix Ear Climbers in 18kt yellow gold with diamonds and opals 4. M2Malletier 5. HermĂ¨s 6. Jimmy Choo
Lela Rose, Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent at neimanmarcus.com; Erdem, Alexander McQueen at Harvey Nichols; Dolce&Gabbana at mytheresa.com
Glorious sequins, animal prints and thigh skimming hemlines ensure that enough is never enough when it comes to this technicolour Eighties revival. If you are looking for an alternative to fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current penchant for all things minimalist, look no further than the power-shouldered designs cavorting down runways from Saint Laurent to DSquared2. 1. Saint Laurent 2. Alexander McQueen 3. Annick Goutal Tenue de SoirĂŠe 4. Sammie Jo Coxon, Stellar Ring in 18kt gold 5. Dolce&Gabbana 6. DSquared2
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LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN’S
PARIS FASHION WEEK: MEN’S
FUNKSHION MIAMI BEACH SWIM: WOMEN’S
June 9th to 12th, 2017
June 21st to 25th, 2017
July 19th to 23rd, 2017
LONDON FASHION WEEK: WOMEN’S
September 15th to 19th, 2017
Florence FLORENCE PITTI IMMAGINE: MEN’S June 13th to 16th, 2017
MILAN FASHION WEEK: MEN‘S June 17th to 20th, 2017
MILAN FASHION WEEK: WOMEN‘S September 20th to 26th, 2017
PARIS FASHION WEEK: WOMEN‘S September 26th to October 4th, 2017
Copenhagen COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK: MEN’S AND WOMEN’S August 8th to 12th, 2017
Berlin BERLIN FASHION WEEK: WOMEN’S July 4th to 7th, 2017
Tokyo FASHION WEEK TOKYO: WOMEN’S Mid-October, 2017
New York NYFW: MEN’S July 10th to 13th, 2017
Photos: courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana
July 2nd to 6th, 2017
wempe ® cut adds 80 more facets to perfection.
The superlative of a solitaire: Thanks to its 137 facets a diamond in the certied WEMPE-Cut® has an extremely high degree of light reection and extraordinary brilliance. At the best addresses in Germany and in London, Paris, Madrid, Vienna and New York. www.wempe.com
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THOSE THAT BELIEVE ‘DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND’ MUST SURELY HAVE OVERLOOKED THE EXQUISITE EMERALD.
his gorgeous, green gemstone is considered by many to possess positive mythical, physical and psychological properties. Like its carbon companion, it is defined by characteristics such as clarity, cut, colour and carat, and costs range from $50 to more than $15,000. Emeralds originate in Zambia, Zimbabwe and Brazil but most commonly hail from Colombia. In fact, some reports claim this South American nation produces up to an impressive 95% of the world’s supply. One of the world’s largest emeralds originates from Colombia and is currently located in America’s National Museum of Natural History. Named the Gachalá Emerald, this 1967 discovery boasts 858 carats and is a mighty 171.6 grams. The finest emeralds are recognised by their striking
A Gemfields rough emerald in reaction zone, Kagem, Zambia
green colour, achieved with chromium, or occasionally vanadium. Transparency is a highly sought after trait, while hue, tone and saturation are also important features. Fabulously fashionable, yet fairly fragile, the eye-catching emerald is frequently refined into square or oval cuts. Referred to as one of ‘the big four’ along with the diamond, ruby and sapphire, emeralds have certainly earned this reputation.
EXQUISITE INTENSITY The most meaningful of the 4 c’s as far as emeralds are concerned is colour. Immediately identifiable by its vibrant green, consider the colour elements of hue, saturation and tone when choosing an emerald. Colombian emeralds tend to have a bluish green hue, while emeralds hailing from other locations can tend towards yellow. The tone of an emerald varies from light to dark, while saturation gives the stone its intensity and strength and ranges from dull to vivid (the more vivid, the more sparkly). The darker tonal and higher saturation grades usually mean a higher price, but that’s not to say that a lighter toned and highly vivid emerald is any less beautiful to the eye. There is no universal clarity grading scale for emeralds, and inclusions (imperfections) can be expected in almost all natural emeralds – those that look like branches or roots are referred to as ‘jardin’ - due to liquids, gas, and other minerals like chromium and vanadium being present at the emerald’s formation.
Photos: courtesy of Chopard; Fabrice Dall‘Anese
In addition to its astounding appearance, sources suggest there is evidence demonstrating the significant therapeutic benefits of the stunning emerald stone. These include increased confidence and concentration, as well as improved coping ability in times of emotional distress. Regarded as the beautiful birthstone for those born in May, emeralds astrologically represent both Taurus and Gemini. With such spiritual properties, these gemstones make the perfect gift for that special someone, with sales having soared in recent times. Enriched with an ever-lasting beauty and enlightening energy, it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t unexpected that the emerald continues to challenge the diamond in popularity. Embrace its beauty with the timeless collections that follow.
Julianne Moore in Chopard at Cannes Film Festival 2016
Emeralds during the design process
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IN EMERALDS THE HIGH JEWELLERY PIECES THAT HAVE US SHIMMERING IN GREEN
4 1. Chopard, necklace in 18ct white Fairmined gold set with a pearshaped 22ct emerald, marquise-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds 2. Bucherer, Entourage earrings in 18kt white gold with 2.14cts of emeralds and 56 brilliant-cut diamonds 3. Bucherer, pendant with chain in 18kt white gold with 1.15cts of emeralds and 28 brilliant-cut diamonds 4. Jacob & Co., Mystery of Muzo cuffs, set in 18kt white gold with a 74.33ct and 70.57ct pear-shape Colombian emerald respectively, 118.13cts round, brilliant-cut diamonds 5. Boucheron, 26 VendĂ´me cabochon ring in white gold set with a 3.99ct Colombian emerald cabochon, onyx, paved with diamonds 6. Boucheron, 26 VendĂ´me Ruban Graphique ring in white gold set with 3.7ct Colombian emerald paved with diamonds and emeralds
Photos: courtesy of szefeil/Thittaya Janyamethakul/123rf
1. Graff, cabochon drop emerald and diamond necklace, 28 graduating emeralds, 199.82cts, and 100.88cts of diamonds 2. Cartier, Collection High Jewellery Magicien de Cartier bracelet emeralds and diamonds 3. Chopard, earrings in 18ct white Fairmined gold set with two pear-shaped emeralds, 31.8cts, brilliant-cut and marquise-cut diamonds 4. Cartier, Collection High Jewellery Magicien de Cartier bracelet CinĂŠtique emeralds and diamonds 5. Tiffany & Co., Blue Book 2017 ring in 18kt gold with emeralds and diamonds
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THE TIMES KEEP TIME IN STYLE WITH OUR EDIT OF THE HOTTEST NEW WATCHES OF 2017
BAUME & MERCIER
Clifton Club Shelby Cobra Limited Edition Chronograph
This athletic 44mm flyback chronograph is a limited edition, comprised of 196 pieces. Inspired by the legendary Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe – one of the most iconic cars in American motorsports – the go-faster stainless steel dial is enhanced with an automatic flyback chronograph movement and an ‘all roads’ embossed calfskin strap with a carbon-like pattern.
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph This über-desirable iteration of the classic Royal Oak was created entirely in 18kt yellow gold, with black ceramic pushpieces, glare-proof sapphire crystal and caseback, and ‘Méga Tapisserie’ dial pattern with Arabic numerals. This 42mm masterpiece with a screw-locked crown is available with an additional blue alligator strap.
Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Designed for the adventurous sea diver, the ultra-resistant 43mm SeaDweller is waterproof to a depth of 4,000 feet. The superalloy, 904L, stainless steel watch comes equipped with calibre 3235, a newgeneration self-winding mechanical movement developed by Rolex, which is resistant to shocks and magnetic fields.
Classic Fusion Chronograph Italia Independent Tartan King Gold Assembled by hand, Hublot channels its finest craftsmanship into this fun-filled 45mm Prince of Wales tartan Classic Fusion, with 18kt gold satin-finish, sapphire anti-glare treatment, and limited edition engraving. A limited run of 50 watches makes this watch an eye-catching addition to any collection.
TEX TURE BREITLING
Navitimer Rattrapante A significant addition to the Breitling stable, the Navitimer Rattrapante features the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first ever in-house split-seconds chronograph movement. In addition to this sophisticated complication, the watch is available in steel or red gold versions, with an exclusive bronze-coloured dial and powered by Manufacture Breitling Calibre B03.
Tradition Dame 7038 Breguet devoted its 2017 preBaselworld launch to women, with an exclusive new version of its much-loved Tradition Dame model in radiant rose gold. Encased in 18kt rose gold and set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds, the mother-of-pearl dial illuminates the exposed intricacies of this feminine example of haute horlogerie.
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Grande Seconde Tourbillon Mother-of-Pearl Previewed at Baselworld 2017, this beautiful mother-of-pearl timepiece embodies a timeless fusion of mechanics and adornments. The shimmering effects play off the gleam of red gold on the 39mm case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, while Roman numeral indexes for hours and minutes are a touch of classicism in their own right, accentuated by the movement’s bridges with a fanned Côtes de Genève design.
L.U.C XPS Twist Fairmined Bearing the respected Fairmined label, the 18kt gold in this watch originates from small-scale mining organisations developed under the Alliance for Responsible Mining. The 250-piece limited edition timepiece has a self-winding L.U.C Calibre 96.12-L housed inside an ultra-thin case and protected by glare-proofed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. This watch is sophistication with a conscience.
SIMP LICITY CARL F. BUCHERER
Manero Flyback Exhibited in its new iterations at Baselworld, the champagne dial of the Manero Flyback – also available in bluish-grey and black versions – offers a chic chronograph movement in a classic 18kt red gold case that reflects the recognisable rounded lines of the Manero 43mm series. This timepiece offers function and style at your fingertips, courtesy of the traditional Lucerne watchmaker.
Mirrored Force Resonance Armin Strom demonstrates the complex phenomenon of resonance in this model, whereby two balance wheels oscillate in close proximity, influencing one another and ultimately synchronising. If precision and accuracy are your watchwords, this impressive feat in 18kt pink gold with a black hornback alligator strap is the watch for you.
Speedmaster 38mm This enduring design has been given new life with a 38mm model nicknamed ‘Cappuccino’. Crafted from stainless steel and Omega’s 18kt Sedna gold, it features a diamond-paved bezel that includes a tachymeter scale. Sporty and elegant, the watch is driven by the Omega calibre 3330, complete with co-axial technology and a silicon balance spring.
ARNOLD & SON
Nebula This holistically designed 41.5mm watch with its skeletonised movement offers a threedimensional view into the heart of Arnold & Son’s painstaking design. Taking its name from nebulae – clouds of cosmic gas – seven triangular bridges radiate towards the centre of the dial like an inverted, exploded star. A truly stellar design.
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Le Marché des Merveilles Aligned with the eclectic vision of the main collections, Le Marché des Merveilles series of timepieces and jewellery highlights the house’s symbolism of the bee, tiger, and snake, elegantly embroidered on a nylon dial against the instantly recognisable Gucci stripe and poetic expression, ‘L’Aveugle par Amour’.
SINGU LARITY DIOR
Grand Soir Botanic The first in a series of eight one-of-a-kind pieces inspired by a fairy-tale garden of flowers, this exceptional timepiece gives the illusion of petals blossoming under the glass. Decorated with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies, this 36mm white gold watch with quartz movement is poetry in motion.
JACOB & CO.
Astronomia Solar Featuring the eight planets of our solar system in a zero gravity effect, Jacob & Co. introduced the astounding Astronomia Solar at Baselworld 2017 after two years in development. Among other fascinating novelties, the hand-engraved Earth rotates about its own axis once every 60 seconds and completes one full revolution of the dial in ten minutes.
Carrera Heuer-01 Full Black Matte Ceramic Officially launched this year, this is the signature chronograph from TAG Heuer updated with a new Heuer 01 in-house calibre, as well as a new modular case design comprising 12 different elements. Combining sophistication and modernity, this 45mm skeletonised ceramic watch has a bead-blasted finish, giving it a rich shade of black.
Sculpted Gold Tourbillon
DA RKN ESS CARTIER
Drive de Cartier Moon Phases Fitted with the new manufacture movement 1904-LU MC, a distinctive moon phase complication tracks the cycle of new moons, half-moons, and full moons for astronomic precision. With a convex curved glass case and uncluttered white guilloche dial, it is available in pink gold or steel.
This one-of-kind 24kt gold watch – more a work of art than a timepiece – gives life to the visions of its creators, ArtyA founder Yvan Arpa and master-engraver Bram Ramon (using his ornamental Prismacut Art technique). Powered by a mechanical movement exclusive to ArtyA, the watch reveals the rotations of its flying tourbillon at six o’clock.
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LOCK AND KEY HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR PRECIOUS ITEMS SAFE? READ ON TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT STORING YOUR VALUABLES IN A LUXURY SAFE DEPOSIT BOX.
HOW TO USE A SAFE DEPOSIT BOX A luxury safe deposit box is kept in a secured vault at your bank or other purpose built location and a high level of protection is maintained around who can access that box. If you want to access your items, you will need to visit the bank and go through the process of verifying your identity before you can open the safe. Because the box can only be accessed by visiting the bank during opening hours, you should only be storing things in a safe deposit box that you don’t need
to access on a regular basis or that you will not need suddenly in an emergency.
CAN ANYONE ELSE ACCESS MY SAFE DEPOSIT BOX? If the box is rented in your name only you shouldn’t store anything in it that another person may need, like your will. In the event of your death your heirs might have trouble accessing it. However, it is possible to designate people who will have rights to the contents of the box. This can be handy if you need to access the contents but you are outside of the country or unable to visit the bank, as someone can do it on your behalf. These people will be able to access the box at any time, so make sure that it is someone you really know and trust. Be wary of giving someone access to your safe deposit box if they have displayed judgement issues in the past.
Photos: courtesy of Merrion Vaults; tiero/123rf
here are certain things that are so valuable that they should be kept under lock and key. This could include important personal documents such as deeds and personal papers, irreplaceable family heirlooms, precious metals and jewellery or collectibles that have considerable value. A safe deposit box can be a great, cost-effective solution for storing these items. For example, you can rent a safe deposit box from Metro Bank in the UK for £200 per year. Merrion Vaults is an independently owned safe deposit box centre located in Ireland and beyond, providing custodial services to individuals and businesses, while many banks in Europe (although increasingly declining in number) offer this service. But how exactly do they work and what items should you store in these types of boxes? Here are a few important things you need to know.
REMEMBER - THE BOX ISNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T AUTOMATICALLY INSURED The items within your safe deposit box arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t automatically insured like the money in your bank account is. If you want to make sure that the items in the box are insured, you will need to purchase the insurance yourself. This will protect the items in the box from theft, floods, fires and much more. It is also a good idea to store items in waterproof containers and seal papers in Ziploc bags so that if a little bit of moisture gets into the safe deposit box they will still be protected. If you have precious documents such as personal papers and fam-
ily photos, you should also make copies of the items and store them electronically or in the cloud. Finally, The Safe Deposit Federation is a self-regulating federation of independent safe deposit box companies set up to raise the standards of safekeeping facilities. Check that your facility is an approved member to be sure of minimum standards of security. A safe deposit box can be the perfect solution for storing your items and making sure they are secure for the long term. Sometimes, a simple lock and key is the low-tech, high-security solution to keep your valuables safe.
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A DIAMOND ON EVERY FINGER
UNISTELLA BY E.K. LAB IS THE SEOUL-BASED SALON OF NAIL VIRTUOSO EUN KYUNG PARK, WHOSE MANICURES DO NOT FOLLOW TRENDS BUT INSTEAD CREATES THEM. WE TAKE A GLIMPSE AT THE LATEST JEWEL IN HER NAIL ART CROWN, THE DIAMOND MANICURE, AND MEET THE ARTIST HERSELF.
un Kyung Park has risen through the nail art ranks, in no small part down to her unique knack for staying one step ahead of the zeitgeist when it comes to fast-paced nail art trends. Her quirky yet precise mini works of art have decorated the nails of A-listers, from Victoria Beckham in Vogue to supermodels like Irene Kim in high fashion editorials to catwalkers at New York Fashion week. And the one thing they all want? Diamond nails. We were able to catch her just as she came home from working on the fall collections.
FROM CUT GLASS TO DIAMOND
BEYOND BOUNDARIES A creative at heart, Park always harboured dreams of making a career out of her art: “I wanted to promote
Eun Kyung Park
FLAWLESS NAILS The diamond nails, or more precisely “LED plus diamond”, can be achieved using holographic nail art foil. The aim is to recreate the flawless finish of the real thing. “I saw a diamond shining under the sunlight while walking past a jewellery shop,” says Park about her initial inspiration for this look. “I thought it was very beautiful, so I tried it.” Inspiration comes easily to Park and is quickly transmuted into her very own brand of wearable art. Wire nails are next in line at Unistella. Park takes tiny pieces of gold wire and sculpts them into designs follow-
Photos: courtesy of Eun Kyung Park and Unistella
Following on from the success of Unistella’s shattered glass nails—which used carefully crafted pieces of cellophane to create a prismatic effect—the 3-D diamond nails add a new dimension with their mirrored sheen, ensuring that each finger tip looks as bejewelled as the rings that adorn it. “A diamond is every woman’s dream,” says Park. “Even though I prefer things that are minimal and simple, I really want diamonds too. I thought that if you could have diamonds on your nails, it would be so perfect.”
nail art globally, so I created the brand Unistella,” she said. “I wanted to form a nail design crew, so I rented an office and there I did some research on nails and photo shoots as well. That’s how it all started.” Park is an expert at using negative space on the nails in a way that takes her work beyond that of a nail technician and into the realm of a graphic artist—think bright pops of cherry with clear negative space at the tip or centre of the nail. She has consistently carved a niche as a boundary-breaker. “When I think about it now, when I started I used a sharpie to draw dots and used white-out to do French manicures. Even then, doing nails was fun and interesting. I can’t imagine myself not doing nail art.”
ing the half moons of the nail bed (‘cuticle cuffs’) and Picasso-like faces inspired by the snaking letters in neon signs. The future of nail art moves ever forward and shines just as brightly as Park’s diamond nails.
HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN DIAMOND NAILS STEP BY STEP: 1. Find a gel nail colour that’s similar to the colour you wish to create in ‘diamonds’; 2. Paint one layer of gel colour and cure the gel with light; 3. Add a top gel and before curing that layer add the holographic film, then cure again; 4. Peel off the clear layer of the nail film; 5. Add a final layer of top gel.
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Backstage at Mulberry s/s17
SEEKING LUMINOSITY C
lean, radiant skin and wash-and-go hair made an understatedly chic impact on the SS17 runways. While the experimentation with glitter, metallic and electric pigments always attracts momentary attention, it was the focus on a fresh-faced glow that proved to be the common beauty thread this season. A minimalist, natural look inspired makeup artist Inge Grognard at Mulberry. “The skin has to look flawless,” Grognard said backstage. “There is foundation, but you don’t see the foundation.” Tania Grier used skin mapping with Sisley products to create a glow on models at Emilia Wickstead, without making the skin oily in unwanted areas, while Andrew Gallimore, Nars’ UK Makeup Artist Ambassador, described his models at
David Koma as “radiant royalty, healthy, athletic and sun-kissed.” These sound like beauty goals we can get behind, but just how do you go about achieving the flawless skin that underpins this beauty look?
BACK TO BASICS We know about the key steps of cleansing, exfoliation and hydration (not forgetting sunscreen of course) but there are many ways in which to boost the efficacy of this simple regime. First, skin looks brighter when light reflects from it, so combat dull skin by gently sloughing away dead skin cells with a fine-particle polishing exfoliator (like Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant) or by using a weekly BHA (beta hydroxyl acid) peel or resurfacing mask, to increase skin cell turnover.
Chantecaille and Sisley Paris Sunleÿa G.E. at Liberty London. Photos: courtesy of Mulberry
THE SPRING/SUMMER RUNWAYS WERE DOMINATED BY FRESH-FACED, RADIANT SKIN. WE EXPLORE HOW TO DITCH THE FOUNDATION AND ACHIEVE LUMINOUS SKIN THIS SUMMER.
Once skin is ultra-clean and polished, add a brightening step to help even out the skin tone. Vitamin C is highly effective at this, and a highly concentrated serum, such as SkinCeutical C E Ferulic, will work hard for your skin. Boost healthy collagen in the skin even further with the application of a topical retinol serum at night. Differin 1% is a topical retinoid that that has just been FDA-approved for over-the-counter sales in the US. Hydration is the essential next step and, aside from daily application of your trusted moisturiser, add a hydrating sheet mask tailored to your skin type to your weekly routine (or a sleeping mask to lock in moisture).
Glowing skin at Mulberry s/s17
THE FUTURE OF SKINCARE Innovations in the beauty industry will help us reach skin nirvana even sooner. With a focus on natural and organic skincare last year, probiotic-based skincare is set to take off in 2017. This is beauty from the inside out. Research suggests that bacteria – including lactobacillus and bifidobacterium – are beneficial to the skin and Gallinée, Eminence and Vichy are already making use of these non-traditional ingredients in masks, lotions and cleansers. NYC-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe MD is an advocate of probiotics. “Using a topical probiotic is beneficial,” she says, “as it offers a protective shield and triggers the production of natural moisturisers in the skin.”
Other superfood skincare includes the application of algae, moringa, kale and rosehip seed oil in serums or boosters that can be mixed into face cream. Another way to improve the clarity of your complexion is to get the proper amount of antioxidants, not only from skincare products but also from incorporating antioxidant-rich fruit and vegetables into your daily diet. Whether a plateful of vegetables or the latest in dermatologist-grade skincare, the journey towards radiant summer skin might be long, but it is certainly one that is full of choice.
4 1. Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Cream 2. Sisley Paris Sunleÿa G.E. SPF30 Age Minimizing Global Sun Care 3. Aromatherapy Associates Renewing Rose Hydrating Body Gel 4. Sisley Paris Black Rose Precious Face Oil 5. Aesop Skin Primrose Facial Cleansing Masque
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GROOMED TO PERFECTION
AS INNOVATION IN THE MEN’S GROOMING INDUSTRY SETS THE PACE, MEN ARE PAYING MORE ATTENTION TO THEIR APPEARANCE THAN EVER BEFORE.
increasingly, enjoyable. With many salons creating a club-like atmosphere and delivering services and treatments specifically catering to the male client, the salon is becoming an environment that is designed for men to relax in. So just what is it that men are looking for when it comes to modern-day grooming? “Hair removal is our most popular treatment, whether by body clippering, waxing or laser,” says Gayle. “The general trend at present is to be either very tidy in body hair or to have no body hair at all. There are many reasons for this, including men imitating sportsmen or celebrities, because their partner prefers it or because of the fashion for tattooing. There has definitely been an upsurge in all hair removal treatments.”
HAIR CARE Beard shaping and maintenance is also high on the agenda as the trend for facial hair—mostly neat to the skin, with well-accentuated lines—continues among
1. Refinery Face Mask, 2. Bamford Grooming Department Shave Oil, 3. Kiehl’s Age Defender Power Serum, 4. Sisleÿum Anti-Age Global Revitalizer, 5. Hourglass Equilibrium Biomimetic Skin Active Serum
Photos: courtesy of The Refinery; NejroN/123rf; gstockstudio/123rf
en’s grooming is a serious business. In 2015, 25% of salon customers in the UK were men, according to a survey by Salon Services. In the same year, Mr Porter reported a 300% growth in hair and skincare product sales. With men becoming more interested in preserving their looks, and more knowledgeable about the treatments and products that will help them to do so, the men’s grooming industry is now worth an estimated $21 billion. “Men are now being judged on their looks and grooming,” explains Deborah Gayle, manager at men’s salon The Refinery in Mayfair, London. “We expect men to take care of themselves—both in body, diet and general appearance. Being badly groomed signals a don’tcare attitude.” For many men, shaving or getting a haircut is no longer seen as a chore to be completed on the way out of the house but a way to add value, not just to their appearance but also to their lifestyle and career success. As a result, a trip to the salon is seen as a pampering experience that is both necessary and,
The Refinery, Mayfair London
young and distinguished alike. To add further to a polished appearance, grey hair can also be subtly hidden. “Depending on the depth of grey and cover, one of our best treatments is Grey-Away,” notes Gayle. “A 10-minute service can cover grey in a very discreet manner and blend it in with the rest of the hair. Not a total dye but a very natural look.” As the modern gentleman begins to pay as much attention to looking after his hair and skin as his diet and exercise regime, it is not only basic grooming techniques such as hair removal, beard shaping and haircuts and colour that are coming under male scrutiny. Cosmetic surgery is on the rise. Meanwhile, the International Spa Association suggests that men made up 46% of customers seeking cosmetic spa treatments in 2013. Likewise, high tech gadget-based treatments appeal to the male customer. “Our clients are beginning to want more serious facials that will deliver anti-ageing
effects and firmer skin,” says Gayle. “We find that men love a machine-based facial; for example, the galvanic and high frequency facials.” Looking to the future, Gayle predicts that the trend for longer hair will prevail this summer, including ponytails and even braids for the younger man, while the popularity of a re-worked short back and sides with longer layers across the face will continue. As for beauty, men will be seeking sculpting body treatments and advanced anti-ageing skin care products and regimes. It seems that when it comes to innovation in the beauty industry, in the years ahead there will be no man left behind.
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A MODEL RECOMMENDS BRITISH MODEL RUTH CRILLY KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT BEAUTY. AFTER YEARS SPENT IN HAIR AND MAKEUP FOR RUNWAY SHOWS, AD CAMPAIGNS AND EDITORIALS IN ELLE, VOGUE AND GLAMOUR TO NAME BUT A FEW, SHE NOW CONNECTS WITH FELLOW BEAUTY-ADDICTS VIA HER BLOG, A MODEL RECOMMENDS. RUTH TELLS US MORE ABOUT HER BEAUTY REGIME FOR SUMMER.
HOW DOES YOUR BEAUTY ROUTINE CHANGE FOR THE SUMMER MONTHS? Apart from being far more strict with my SPF application, I like to add an antioxidant serum into my routine (Zelens for pricey, Paula’s Choice for more affordable)
and I tend to go for lighter-weight moisturisers rather than the rich, buttery ones that I use in the winter. WHICH BEAUTY INNOVATIONS DO YOU LOVE AT THE MOMENT? I love all of the non-drying liquid lipsticks coming out, especially the Armani ones. I tell you what I hate, and that’s sheet masks and peel-off masks. I just find them a total pain, but I know people are going crazy for them. HOW DO YOU PROTECT YOUR SKIN FROM THE ELEMENTS IN SUMMER? SPF all the way. And, if you can spare the time (it only
Photos: courtesy of Ruth Crilly
HICH LUXURY BEAUTY PRODUCTS DO YOU SWEAR BY FOR SUMMER? My number one would be Omorovicza’s Queen of Hungary Mist – I use it as a toner, a refreshing mist, a room spray and a linen spray. This is a great one for air travel as it really freshens the air around you, to make it smell more pleasant!
LIFESTYLE Honeymooning on Route 66
ARE YOU A LIGHT PACKER? I try to be, but because I can never stop working I end up taking a whole case filled with beauty stuff to try out. Because holidays are perfect for testing all of those SPFs, serums, after sun lotions and beach makeup looks!
takes seconds), add a good antioxidant serum in beforehand. Or a Vitamin C-specific product is good – I like Indeed Labs C24, but Alpha-H have a great vitamin C serum too that’s really high quality. WHERE ARE YOU TRAVELLING TO THIS SUMMER? If it’s abroad then probably Greece, as it’s my favourite short-haul destination and there are still loads of places I haven’t visited there. WHO DO YOU ENJOY TRAVELLING WITH? 90% of my travel has always been alone, so I’m very used to my own company and often get frustrated if I’m with others, as I like to hurtle through the airport and do things on my own agenda.
1. Giorgio Armani Lip Magnet Liquid Lipstick 2. Zelens Intense Defence Antioxidant Serum 3. Alpha-H Vitamin C Serum With Grapeseed 4. Paula’s Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum 5. Omorovicza Queen of Hungary Mist 6. Indeed Labs Vitamin C24
WHAT IS YOUR MOST TREASURED HOLIDAY MEMORY? My honeymoon. We drove the Route 66 in America and stopped at a different motel each night. It was like being in a movie, I’d do it again in a flash. HOW HAS YOUR SUCCESS IN THE MODELLING (AND NOW BEAUTY) INDUSTRY CHANGED YOUR VIEWS ON TRAVELLING? Well, one thing both my husband and I agree on (he’s a fashion photographer) is that we are thoroughly spoiled when it comes to travel because we’ve been to so many incredible places, so when we book our own travel we are quite particular and our standards are very high! Too high – we’re regularly disappointed. But it’s one of life’s great pleasures to be able to travel to far-flung places so I try not to ever take it for granted.
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WE TALK TO MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF ALBERT ADRIÀ ABOUT LIFE AFTER ELBULLI AND WHAT’S ON THE MENU FOR 2017.
lbert Adrià is known for the culinary magic produced at five times ‘best restaurant in the world’, elBulli, alongside his elder brother Ferran Adrià. Since the restaurant closed in 2011 the Adrià brothers have forged ahead with new projects that are driving the culinary scene in Spain forward. Albert steps into the limelight with his current global gastronomy project, elBarri, made up of six restaurants in close proximity in Barcelona, the last of which, Enigma, is a tasting-menu wonderland spread out over seven rooms, that turns a meal into a multi-sensory experience. AS A CHEF KNOWN FOR CONSTANT INNOVATION, WHERE DO YOU SEEK INSPIRATION? With work and discipline, there are no other secrets. I’m inspired by everything that surrounds me, but in a
certain way, I am inspired by nature. Let’s not forget that produce is nature and in my cooking, there is always good produce. WAS THERE A MOMENT IN CHILDHOOD WHEN YOU KNEW YOU WOULD BECOME A CHEF? I never wanted to be a chef. In fact, I was a kid when I went to work at elBulli; I was only 15. It was a progressive falling in love. HOW HAS YOUR PROFESSIONAL RELATIONSHIP WITH FERRAN EVOLVED OVER TIME? Our relationship hasn’t stop evolving, although there is one thing that will never change: Ferran is the big brother, hah! Now I’m in charge of elBarri whereas Ferran is preparing elBulli1846, therefore our paths are still in parallel with one another.
HOW LENGTHY IS THE PROCESS BETWEEN INSPIRATION AND THE FINISHED DISH? It depends on many factors, but the difficulty of the process doesn’t really matter—only the result. WHAT DRIVES YOU TO SEEK SUCH PERFECTION IN YOUR DISHES? I am not looking for perfection when I am creating a new dish. I try not to create imperfection, only quality in the product, applied technique and taste combination. WHAT WAS THE ORIGINAL IDEA BEHIND THE CULINARY PLAYGROUND OF ELBARRI? It has been something quite instinctive but which, at the end of the day, has been driven by my need to express my personality as a cook. With Enigma we close the circle and I personally find myself in a phase of enjoyment and self-realisation. WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT ENIGMA AND WHY IS THIS PROJECT RIGHT FOR NOW? As I said, it’s the culmination of 33 years of work. Let’s say that it’s the cherry on the cake and the restaurant that closes the circle of elBarri. IN WHAT WAY IS ENIGMA DESIGNED TO BE A SUCCESSOR TO ELBULLI? Enigma is not expected to be the successor but a continuation. elBulli was unique in its time and momentum; Enigma offers other experiences, but undoubtedly it nurtures itself from its natural father, elBulli.
The experience itself is different, which is what the guests who have already visited us say. It’s a venue that will allow us to grow and modify the offer, but we are only two months old and need more time in order to explore the possibilities of the venue. WHAT ARE YOUR OTHER PLANS FOR 2017 AND BEYOND? Short term, to open the new season 2017 at Heart Ibiza and the opening of a beach club in the Dominican Republic.
ENIGMA The essence of this restaurant is in its name. Described as a ‘post restaurant’ by journalist Pau Arenós, guests embark upon a carefully curated journey that escalates throughout the night, in which a team of 28 staff prepare, serve, and explain—or maybe not—a tasting menu of nearly 40 elaborations. The element of mystery is crucial to the experience, to the extent that photography is limited to personal use and social media posts of the food require prior permission. Exquisitely designed in steel, ceramics and glass, the 700 square metre venue is a sight to behold in itself and is composed of The Cellar, The Counter, The Grill, Dinner and 41o. Albert Adrià sees Enigma as his highest expression as a chef but, perhaps more importantly, as a creative mind: the respect for produce, the versatility, the surprise and eye for detail. Enigma is the mysterious dining experience that must not be missed.
The grand Enigma
WHAT WILL BE UNIQUE ABOUT THE FOOD AT ENIGMA?
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Extraordinary tapas at Tickets
HOJA SANTA Michelin-starred Mexican food is a reality at Hoja Santa. Winner of the Salsa de Chiles 2015 for best foreign cuisine restaurant, it is a collaboration between Albert Adrià and Paco Méndez, who were inspired by their travels to Oaxaca, home of the aromatic Oaxaca leaf, which is often used in cooking in the region. Expect small plate dishes, such as black bean soup with cardoons, inspired by the cooking of Méndez’s grandmother, and a taco filled with shredded rabbit, mashed peas and mackerel purée.
Culinary delights at Hoja Santa
TICKETS One of the world’s 50 best restaurants, the demand for tapas at Tickets far outstrips supply. Diners can expect a playful circus atmosphere in this ‘culinary amusement park’, not to mention delightfully imaginative small bites. This 90-seat restaurant is where you can find the infamous liquid olive for which the Ferran brothers are known, as well as other deconstructed Spanish delights. A night at Tickets combines food and entertainment with aplomb. Don’t miss the desserts: Albert Adrià was crowned World’s Best Pastry Chef in 2015.
Harmonious fusion at Pakta
Morsels of fresh fish at Bodega 1900
Photos: courtesy of elBarri
This cozy vermouth bar pays homage to the traditional bodega, the unassuming cornerstone of culture and heritage in Spanish communities. Designed to reinvigorate the tradition of “anar a fer el Vermut”, or meeting for a small drink and tapas, Bodega 1900 is a 328 square foot tavern serving the best in Spanish staples such as seafood, olives, cheeses and Iberian ham, as well as dishes with surprisingly Eastern flair like crunchy algae rolls and calamari in kimchi sauce.
NIÑA VIEJO Mexican street food takes centre stage at Niña Viejo. The friendly taqueria atmosphere is informal and fun and makes stars of the sublime tacos and tortas on offer. Tables are covered with brightly patterned oilcloths and
diners mark their orders on slips of paper. Classic Adrià touches include guacamole that comes with its own pestle and mortar and tequila-infused macaroons, a pleasingly punchy finale to intriguing ingredients like sea urchin, octopus and oysters. Perfect for the young at heart.
Hearty cooking at Niña Viejo
PAKTA Pakta, meaning “together, union” in the original language of indigenous Peruvians, brings Nikkei cuisine to the heart of Barcelona. A mixture of Japanese and Peruvian gastronomy, chefs Kyoko Ii and Jorge Muñoz, overseen by Adrià, offer an inspiring tasting menu – think seafood, ceviche and sushi served in theatrical, ingenious ways - born from a beautiful combination of flavours and cultures. The décor is a similar mash up of elegant Japanese tavern and colourful Peruvian tapestry.
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GIN IS NO FAD. SINCE IT FIRST HIT THE MARKET IN THE 17TH CENTURY, IT HAS GONE FROM STRENGTH TO STRENGTH. TODAY, THOUGH, SOMETHING IS HAPPENING. GIN IS ‘IN’ – AND NOT JUST IN ITS TRADITIONAL STRONGHOLD OF THE UNITED KINGDOM.
HAT’S HAPPENING WITH GIN?
The basic premise of gin hasn’t changed much since its inception. We’re still talking about a clear, neutral spirit flavoured with a range of botanicals. Juniper remains the most significant ingredient, which imparts gin’s distinctive characteristics, which can include citrus, pine and resin. Exact recipes and techniques will vary from one distillery to another, but otherwise, the product hasn’t undergone any revo-
lutionary changes. Nonetheless, big things are happening in the gin world. Last year, gin became a billion-pound industry in the UK for the first time. The Royal Botanic Gardens have just introduced measures to preserve the juniper berry, effectively ensuring its survival and the future supply of gin. The founders of Portobello Road Gin recently opened a first-of-its-kind gin hotel, The Distillery, on the famous London road. Scottish gins, such as Islay’s The
Photos: courtesy of City of London Distillery; olegdudko/123rf; Brent Hofacker/123rf
Botanist, are booming in popularity, and the gin category overall is expected to eclipse Scotch whisky sales by 2020. Elsewhere, gin distilleries are popping up and making waves everywhere, from France to the US. You may be surprised to learn that the biggest gin brand of them all, San Miguel, is made in the Philippines, a country that drinks the most gin per capita. Why, then, is it so popular today? What is the appeal of gin in 2017, and why is its rise international?
THE RISE OF GIN It is hard to attribute Gin’s boom in popularity to any one reason, but we’ve got a few theories nonetheless. Mixology, or the art of cocktail making, is big business. From London and Paris to New York and Hong Kong, the mixologist has become a performance artist. Gin is a natural fit here: The range on offer today is vast. A wealth of options regarding taste, texture, and even colour make gin an invaluable addition to the mixologist’s toolkit.
It’s also clear that craft beverages are here to stay. Local, artisanal and handmade drinks are in high demand, and of course that includes gin. The proliferation of craft distilleries looks set to continue, from London to California and beyond. Micro-distilleries such as the one producing Ableforth’s cold compounded Bathtub Gin answer the consumer’s call for authentic, local products. Both of these trends dovetail with alcohol premiumisation, the increasing demand for premium beverages from wealthy connoisseurs. These educated consumers are willing to pay for quality and are open to multiple ways of enjoying gin, whether through a master cocktail or simply a micro-distilled gin on the rocks.
THE FUTURE The world in 2017 is an unpredictable place. One thing seems quite likely, however: There is a thirst for gin out there, and so long as producers continue to distil with a focus on quality and craft, the market will continue to thrive.
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SKYSCRAPER CITY T
his highly anticipated New York residential project has been designed by the internationally acclaimed British architecture firm and newly commissioned designer of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s wing for modern and contemporary art, David Chipperfield Architects. Development of The Bryant, which is slated for completion this year, is in the capable hands of the New York-based real estate and development firm, HFZ Capital. Situated at the highly desirable 16 West 40th Street on Bryant Park, and above a boutique hotel, this new development aims to capture the magic of inner-city living. Focusing on shining a light on the city’s iconic dramatic skyline, this sensational development will allow residents to enjoy uninterrupted views of Bryant Park, as well as of a number of New York’s iconic landmarks, including the Empire State Building.
UNPARALLELED DESIGN David Chipperfield Architects’ design ethos proves that intelligent simplicity has the ability to make a big impact in a wide range of residential spaces. And this latest addition to the company’s portfolio once again reinforces why the innovative firm has continued to stand tall as one of the world’s most successful architecture firms. “The idea that the structure and the façade are the same thing, made out of polished concrete, will give
Photos: courtesy of The Bryant NYC and David Chipperfield Architects
SIR DAVID CHIPPERFIELD’S THE BRYANT, IS SET TO BECOME THE FIRST LARGE-SCALE RESIDENTIAL BUILDING IN NEW YORK TO BE CREATED BY AWARD-WINNING DAVID CHIPPERFIELD ARCHITECTS.
the building a tectonic and physical presence,” says Sir David Chipperfield. “Through this, the building is reduced down to elements of columns and windows, of solid and void, mass and space.” The residential project will boast 57 one to four bedroom residences dotted throughout floors 16 to 34. The complex of spacious residences will even include two luxurious triplex penthouses that boast framed floor-to-ceiling windows, stylish sliding doors, and one corner exposure, all with a minimalist, yet inviting, interior design. What better way to take in the sights and sounds of the concrete jungle outside?
BRING NEW YORK INSIDE Designed to bring elements of the outside indoors by optimising natural light from multiple windows, this project brings together crisp architectural frames, warmtoned herringbone floors and custom-made aggregate terrazzo façade transitions. “I think you can make ar-
chitecture out of very simple things; it doesn’t have to be complicated,” notes Chipperfield. “The difference between a good building and a bad building normally resides in it being more thought out.” But above all, it’s the panoramic skyline and park views that really set this build apart from other residential developments in the area. Situated in the heart of New York’s thriving restaurant and culture scene, this highly anticipated project is close to the city’s gallery district, with Fifth Avenue on the doorstep. With a strong focus on quality, performance and forever aesthetics, The Bryant has been designed to the highest possible standards. Featuring smart space-saving storage, uninterrupted ceiling heights and hand-picked Italian marble finishes, this landmark residential development has been described as “the embodiment of elegant, purposeful design and unparalleled centrality,” and is sure to become one of the most desirable addresses in Manhattan.
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ARCTIC ICE IS NO MATCH FOR TABOO, A 90-METRE GIL SCHMID-DESIGNED YACHT THAT EFFORTLESSLY COMBINES FORM AND FUNCTION.
pings of an unrestrained mega-yacht, while still working as a full ice-class ship. This is a ship capable of navigating some of the most extreme waters on the planet. What’s most striking about Taboo is the way it manages to wear its functionality as an icebreaker alongside Gil Schmid’s trademark sleek design, where minimalism is taken to extravagant levels. The enormous bow of the ship is reinforced and widened to allow unhindered access through the freezing Polar region with the ease of a commercial vessel. This bow peels back from the waves with an almost mirror-like monochrome look. This leads to the back
Photos: courtesy of Gil Schmid Design
hen we think of adventurers or arctic exploration we don’t usually conjure up images of luxurious super-yachts and champagne-sipping passengers floating in glass bottom swimming pools. Yet, with Taboo that might all just be about to change. Taboo is the latest sea-faring creation from New York’s maverick architects and designers at Gil Schmid Design. This is the team behind some of Frank Stella’s most mind-bending abstractionist artworks. The 300-foot-long yacht was designed in conjunction with Tim Dempers studio, and it accommodates all the trap-
half of the yacht, where passengers are invited into a different world: An unrivalled entertainment complex.
EXCELLENCE AT THE OTHER END OF THE WORLD The Taboo’s set up allows for all-night deck parties held against the backdrop of any number of the most remote and beautiful locations in the world. The on-board heated swimming pool, surrounded by a functioning beach club, allows passengers to enjoy the infinite landscape in a way that few have before: dressed in a bathing suit while experiencing top rate silver service. When you take things below deck, Taboo promises to be the only casino or nightclub for hundreds of miles around. The entertainment suites that can be found throughout the ship come fully equipped and staffed, along with access to a spa, gym, and two Jacuzzis. Cutting alongside these spaces are two seven-foot tall aquariums that bring along a taste of the tropical, whatever the climate outside. The innovative monochrome design of the exterior is
carried on through the interior with a refined and clean look. Several of the compartments within the ship are designed to seamlessly transition in purpose – turning from a grand dining hall to a candle-lit dinner within moments. Whether you are looking to accommodate a feast, a festival, or just a gathering with close friends, Taboo has a space tailored to your needs.
EXPERIENCE YOUR OWN TABOO If built, Taboo promises to hold up to 30 guests and over 40 crewmembers, and provides an impressive master suite featuring a private office and lounge. For those planning to go off-ship and explore, there are many means of transportation available, including space for a helipad, small plane, personal submarine, and even a hot air balloon. As well as the awe-inspiring Arctic Ocean, the Taboo would be available for charter on tropical voyages throughout the year. It offers an unparalleled opportunity for design lovers, adventurers, and party-goers to explore the world – with no location too challenging or two extreme for this feat of yacht design.
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THE LUCKY SHIP:
MAKING ITS OWN LUCK, SUERTE, BY TANKOA YACHTS IS AN ELEGANT SHIP IN CLASSIC ITALIAN STYLE.
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EVERY INCH OF ITS 250-METRE LONG QUAYS IS DEDICATED TO ITS CRAFT: THIS IS A COMPANY WITH LUXURY CARVED INTO ITS MASTHEAD.
TAKING ITALIAN STYLE TO SEA With the Suerte, designed by Francesco Paszkowski, Tankoa makes the goal of its enterprise clear. It’s a su-
per-yacht as we’ve come to know them, only with every element taken to a new level of innovation and refinement. A full 69-metres long (226 foot), the exterior has an endlessly smooth and classic look that begins to hint at the contemporary design inside, with its teal decking, unusual beach club, and glass panelling. It is the interior where the design of the ship offers a new dimension, although to describe it as just the interior ignores how it has been built to flow perfectly and work as a unit. The owner’s main quarters are hidden away with complete privacy on the upper deck, while staff and guests are able to operate on separate plains that allow for maximum ease on both ends. There are multiple hose points along the deck so that there is no possibility of entanglement, and dry stacks are carefully installed to prevent engine fumes crossing the path of deck-top sunbathers.
Photos: courtesy of Tankoa Yachts
or decades the most renowned yacht designs were synonymous with German and Dutch shipyards, but now Genoa in Italy is adding its name to that list of renowned shipyards with Tankoa Yachts’ maiden super-yacht, Suerte. Tankoa was formed by a team of passionate Italian designers and sailors, and it describes itself as a boutique shipyard with the sole purpose of bringing mega-yachts to life. Every inch of its 250-metre long quays is dedicated to its craft: this is a company with luxury carved into its masthead. It made its name known on the world stage at the 2015 Monaco Yacht Show with the introduction of the Suerte – the lucky ship.
This design was built to circulate, which means guests are led between the rooms of cosy wood and sleek black by pure instinct, helped along with sea-facing saunas and walls made of fish tanks. The interiors are designed to ‘float’ and absorb vibrations, which provides clean sound throughout. This level of thought carries on into the family room, which was moved back several metres to ensure there was the best film-viewing light available at all times.
TAKE A TRIP ON THE SUERTE The entertainment complex has been built to match these high standards. Guests can enter the beach club from the main swimming deck, which opens into a fully equipped bar, massage parlour, and a large television
concealed behind glass. Heading to the upper-deck, visitors will find a sushi bar, casino, and multiple dining spaces, which can be made private for intimate dinners. Arguably the main design attraction is the lounge room skylight, which has been built into the bottom of the glass swimming pool – creating a kaleidoscope of water-dappled light for those that sit under it. Needless to say, the initial voyages of the Suerte have been well received by owners and crew alike. The 1,500 gross-ton ship managed to reach over 18 knots and the finesse reaches down into the engine room, with naval-standard wiring, carbon friendly filters, and sophisticated noise reduction. If Tankoa can follow the Suerte with similar top-notch yachts, it will make Italian yacht building a true contender.
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hilippe Briand knows the demands of open waters as both a sailor and a yacht designer. He won the Half Ton Cup and the One Ton Cup in the Nineties in boats that he had designed himself, and his father was an Olympic sailor. Rated as one of Boat International’s top 50 yacht designers in the world, his designs include competitors in the America’s Cup, World Superyacht Awards winners, and the 73-metre Grace E. The London-based Frenchman is a rare breed of designer who works on both racing sail yachts and on 100-metre super-yachts that number amongst the largest in the world. It is this balancing of lean sailing design with the needs of high-end luxury vessels that makes his design craft so compelling.
SAILING THROUGH THE WORLD OF LUXURY When it comes to juggling the world of racers and mega-yachts, Philippe tells Project Luxury & Art that “the result is different but the approach is the same,” and it
THE MAN BEHIND
THE SUPER-YACHT NAVAL ARCHITECT AND YACHT DESIGNER PHILIPPE BRIAND DESIGNED HIS FIRST IOR QUARTER TON AGED 16. HE WENT ON TO SEE HIS YACHT DESIGNS COMPETE IN THE AMERICA’S CUP, SETTING HIM ON A JOURNEY TO BECOME ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST RESPECTED SUPER-YACHT DESIGNERS. WE INTERVIEW THE MAN WHO SETS THE TRENDS FOR SAILING IN STYLE.
Photos: courtesy of Philippe Briand; Guillaume Plisson
Egoist 100ft yacht concept
is the above-and-beyond result he is focused on. “The best design is the one complying with the requirements, that goes further than what was asked for and that is superior to other yachts.” Efficiency, sustainability and robustness are the essential elements of Briand’s designs, and to achieve them he must stay one step ahead of current techniques in yacht building. “Design is not science fiction,” he says with pragmatism, “a yacht of 2020 should be in line with the technology of that era, we need an anticipative vision.” To find out just what that yacht might look like he constantly monitors “what is happening in the entertainment industry, art, product design, and holiday trends.” Those trends tell him where design is going, and technological innovations drive further questions. “We could think about an iPad-driven yacht,” he muses, “would we still need a steering station?” Removing artificiality from yachts, and designing them around both the natural world and the nature of the owner’s life, are factors that provide the foundation for Briand’s bespoke designs. In penning a design he wants to know “how does a person see his life on board? Is it pure entertainment or is it a wellness environment, so do we need quiet zones?” True luxury is not found in an excess of gadgets but in the ability of a vessel to connect the sailor with his environment. “Most yachts are the result of top technology, science and art,” he says. “We have made tremendous progress in all fields and we need to integrate that progress, for example, in the way you live or you would like to live. This is evident in the superstructures that are closer to nature and open spaces, which result in more
transparency, designs with glass and a simplicity where technology cannot be seen.”
A RETURN TO NATURE This interplay between functionality, art, and lifestyle is something that shows through in Briand’s latest designs. Glass panelling is able to cast nature back on itself and it safely opens up the interior of a yacht to the elements. When asked about working with these dramatic glass designs, Philippe acknowledges the difficulties. “Glass is weight. The looks are light but the physical part is heavy. We need to take this into account when we consider the weight and the stability of the yacht. This proves once more that design and naval architecture are symbiotic.” For the future, Philippe is “studying possible applications of foil technology on larger sailing yachts and even on a motor yacht.” These wing-style lifts allow boats to almost glide above the water, with decreased drag and at double the speed of the wind. The idea of using them on much larger boats is a truly exciting prospect and the latest indication that Briand can be relied upon to design the super-yachts of tomorrow.
108ft yacht Inouï, deisgned by Briand and built at Vitters Shipyard
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ZEN IN THE SKY
IS IT POSSIBLE FOR PASSENGERS TO TRULY EXPERIENCE A MEANINGFUL CONNECTION WITH THE SKY WHEN FLYING IN AN EXECUTIVE JET? THE KYOTO AIRSHIP BY EMBRAER JUST MIGHT HAVE THE ANSWER.
THE FUTURE OF AEROSPACE DESIGN With most new super jets you would find an emphasis on high tech crystal-clear screens, larger tables made
for banquets, and fully-equipped kitchens and bars, but Jay Beever, Vice President of Interior Design at Embraer, tells Project Luxury & Art that the Kyoto design was driven by a frustration at often “not being able to fulfil the somewhat whimsical imagination of the customer”. Rather than focusing on the continuing quest to take consumer electronics into the air, the Kyoto Airship
Embraer’s Vice President of Interior Design Jay Beever with yacht designer Patrick Knowles
Photos: courtesy of Embraer
he Lineage 1000E is well-known as the signature executive jet from aerospace manufacturer Embraer. Built to hold 19 passengers in its five cabins with more comfort than they would expect on the ground—including a master bedroom suite with walk-in shower and over 300 cubic feet of storage space—it is one of the most luxurious jets for business travel in the world. One of its core features is its capacity for customisation. With the Kyoto Airship concept interior, the brains at Embraer have taken this one step further. This is a Zen-like design for a hypothetical Japanese customer that challenges what we think we know about luxury air travel.
strips its fundamental premise down to the basics: How can an executive jet provide maximum natural light? This question is driven by the team’s discovery that if, as in traditional Japanese design, the passenger sits lower to the ground in the formal Seiza-style, then the effect is akin to sitting in a bathtub. Since Beever and his collaborator, mega-yacht interior designer Patrick Knowles, intended the seating to stay low, the answer was to bring the windows down to meet the passenger.
OPENING THE WINDOWS AT 40,000 FEET Large vertical windows were designed for the front of the plane using the same principle as coastguard jets—where looking down into the water is required for rescue missions. To help keep the plane cool, heat-excluding tinting, using electrochromatic and suspended
particle display technology, will be employed. Above, more light floods into the cabin via two skylights and a series of cleverly lit panels. The Kyoto Airship provides the type of panoramic views that are yet to be realised in-flight. The embossed leather cherry tree climbing the interior wall, whose leaves ‘fall’ to the wool and silk carpet below, serves as a reminder that this is a design driven by nature. “I really believe that as technology improves in the future it will disappear and we will become closer to the analogue, we become closer to nature, we become closer to people,” says Beever. “If technology is disappearing—instead serving the assembly of the aircraft behind the scenes—and it allows us to get closer to our relationships and to nature, then why not bring nature in? Rather than synthesise and bring in fake windows, why not make real windows bigger, so that you are immersed in your environment rather than being hidden from it?” Despite the sheer innovation of the design, Beever estimates that it the design requires only a 30% customisation to the standard Lineage 1000E interior and could be built within 18 months at a total cost of around $75 million. Whatever the cost, this is a look into the future of air travel, and it is a future where flying through the air takes on a whole new, more tranquil meaning.
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BUSINESS JET MARKET VALUES TRENDS
2007 VS. 2017 W
e saw many firsts back in 2007, including the first deliveries of the new Very Light Jet (VLJ) category aircraft that contributed to the record-breaking new aircraft deliveries. There was also plenty of activity during 2007 in the used jet and turboprop markets, helping make the year memorable. Fast-forward ten years. In 2017 we find ourselves somewhat distracted by today’s market challenges, including trying to pinpoint what a new or used business jet is worth in this market. If nothing else, the last decade has taught us patience: How long will the industry remain flat or in low single-digit growth mode? Growth,
as measured by new jets installed in the global fleet, was less than 4% in 2015. Understanding today’s aircraft values is not easy. Watching the industry shift in inventory supply and demand over the last 10 years has been interesting. Because of the uncertainty, JETNET, a world leader in aviation market intelligence, launched a new tool called JETNET Values at NBAA-BACE 2016 last November, providing reliable pricing data on aircraft sold. JETNET Values provides subscribers access to reported sold prices as well as tools for better analysis of pricing data. This enables us to compare historic mar-
Photos: Sergey Nivens/123rf. Charts courtesy of Mike Chase and Marj Rose
WHAT DOES A DECADE MEAN TO BUSINESS JET MARKET VALUES? MIKE CHASE, PRESIDENT OF CHASE & ASSOCIATES AND MARJ ROSE, PRESIDENT OF MARKETLIFT, BOTH AVIATION EXPERTS AT AV BUYER, COMPARE TRENDS IN 2007 AND 2017.
Historically, 2009 was the peak year in terms of business jets ‘For Sale’ (2,782 aircraft, or 16.3% of the fleet in December of that year). Since then, the lowest number of business jets ‘For Sale’ was 2,202 (11% of the fleet) in 2014 and 2016 had the same percentage (2,315, or 11% fleet ‘For Sale’). As demonstrated by Chart A, the 11% fleet ‘For Sale’ in 2016 falls within the pre-recession range of business jets that were ‘For Sale’ and is no longer regarded as being a high inventory level relative to the number of business jets in operation. Chart A
Pre-owned Business Jets ‘FOR SALE’ 2005 to 2016 – Year End Inventory
Aircraft “FOR SALE” – Business Jets
“Avg Days on the Market” vs. “Avg Asking Price” 1996 to 2015
11.9% 11.7% 10.8%
100 Avg. Asking Price
Avg. Days on Market
12.5% 11.5% 11.0% 2,650 2,533 2,539 11.0% 2,435 2,359 2,315 2,202
Source: JETNET; Presentation and Analysis by Chase & Associates
% = For Sale/In-operation fleet
1,635 1,585 1,653
16.3% 14.8% 2,782
Number For Sale
3,500 3,000 2,500 2,000 1,500 1,000 500 0
Avg Days on the Market
BUSINESS JETS ‘FOR SALE’
Price’ for a business jet in 2007 was $5.54m (versus $5.03m in 2006). Today the average asking price is nearly $7m. Note: The metric of average days on the market before a business jet sells is a straightforward calculation. However, the average asking price may not be since an asking price is not always recorded or it may change, leaving some uncertainty in its representation.
Average Asking Price Mil. $
ket data from 2007 with current trends and include insight from JETNET Value.
Source: JETNET Star Reports; Analysis and presentaBon by Chase & Associates
Will we see a seller’s market (i.e. below 10%) in 2017? For that to occur, there would need to be a reduction of over 200 pre-owned business jets ‘For Sale’, or a similar reduction in the number in operation (which could be obtained by retired aircraft).
AVERAGE DAYS ON MARKET/AVERAGE ASKING PRICE Two further leading indicators on the condition of the used jet market are ‘Average Days on the Market’ and ‘Average Asking Prices’, as shown in Chart B. Compiled from JETNET data, we can see that pre-recession the average days had fallen from a peak in 2004 at 305 days (10 months) to 275 days (9 months) in 2007. Chart B also shows that the ‘Average Asking
The new JETNET Values tool can offer insight into an aircraft’s current market value by examining reported sale prices (the final contracted price that is reported by the seller/buyer) from recent sale transactions. As an example, there were approximately 250 full-sale retail transactions of various Gulfstream pre-owned business jets recorded in the JETNET Values programme during the prior 12 months. A total of 57% of those transactions have been posted with a reported sales price in JETNET Values. Using the JETNET Values tool, specific business jet models can be compared by showing the asking price (as set by the owner with the help of a dealer/broker) and sale price by year/vintage, Airframe Total Time (AFTT) and more.
SUMMARY We have come a long way since 2007 and we can safely say that none of us came close to predicting what has subsequently occurred in the aviation industry. However, many of us still have a spirit of optimism for the coming year. We want to believe that US and global GDP growth will get stronger.
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WE’VE ALL HEARD OF INVITATION ONLY EVENTS, CLUBS OR NETWORKS, BUT WHAT ABOUT AIRLINE LOYALTY PROGRAMMES? WE TAKE TO THE SKIES TO EXPLORE THE EXCLUSIVE WORLD OF LOYALTY MILES THAT ARE OFFERED TO ONLY THE MOST DEDICATED TRAVELLERS.
magine that your flight is running late, and you need to connect with a flight at the approaching airport. It would be ideal if you could somehow arrange for your next flight to remain on the ground for an extra thirty minutes, just to let you catch it. If you are a member of British Airways’ elite Exclusive Club Premier, that is exactly what you can do. Welcome to the world of invitation only flying clubs.
Many airlines operate them but few outside of the secretive and Olympian world of invitation only airline loyalty clubs really know much about them. Some airlines offer invitations based on spend, while others are at the discretion of the company CEO or Chairman, but all are completely exclusive and a gateway to a world of high living. Benefits include the use of prestigious preflight lounges, the best seating and meal options, park-
ing privileges and deals on hotel rooms. All of those set you apart from the casual passenger, but now imagine a world where the airline works around you.
HIGH VALUE TRAVELLERS But why would airlines offer such splendid perks? According to Delta Airlines, just five percent of its customers account for more than 26 percent of its overall revenue, and indications are that this small niche spends more year on year. This fact alone means that consistently exceeding the expectations of those high value guests is extremely important to the airline, and rolling out the red-carpet treatment is seen as necessary.
EXCLUSIVE BENEFITS Different airlines offer their prestigious clients different perks. If you are a regular at the Qantas desk, you will get unlimited access to a private door hiding what is known as the Chairman’s Lounge, where you will find private meeting rooms, an a la carte menu, showers, and even a well-stocked library, all of which is accessible whether you are flying or not. Over at Virgin Australia, card holders’ perks include many free upgrades from economy to business class, limousine transfers to and from the airport or in between terminals, guaranteed seating on sold-out flights, and 24-hour customer service to assist with booking changes, limousine reservations, upgrades or general enquiries. With privileges like that, it makes sense that the customer will have the chosen airline’s number on speed dial.
DELTA – DELTA 360 Delta 360 is a minimally promoted, invitation-only tier, which is believed to offer an exclusive concierge service to members (reportedly those who spend in excess of $40,000 with the airline each year). Members may also benefit from: • A dedicated support desk staffed with agents ready to help with any reservation issues or requests; • Dedicated phone lines with priority response times; • Luxury transfer by Porsche directly from the plane on tight connections to be driven across the tarmac to the next flight (at select airports including Atlanta, Los Angeles, Minneapolis and New York JFK); • Discretionary gift of a magnum of Louis Roederer Champagne and Tiffany & Co. flutes; • Priority complimentary upgrades (usually on the day of travel).
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VIRGIN AUSTRALIA – THE CLUB Membership to The Club is granted personally by Virgin Australia CEO John Borghetti and is valid for two years at a time. Members include celebrities, business leaders, politicians and executives in control of the travel policies of large companies. Benefits include private airport limousine transfers and ‘anytime access’ to invitation-only lounges as well as: • Access for the member and two guests to the coveted, hidden, The Club lounges in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Canberra and Perth airports; • Nominated membership for spouse or partner, Veloc-
BRITISH AIRWAYS - EXECUTIVE CLUB PREMIER Executive Club Premier is reported to have as few as 1,500 members, each one a highly valued customer who can expect exemplary service. One of the alleged perks is that the airline may delay a flight by up to 30 minutes for members in the event of a tight connection. Aside from first class check-in and access to business and first class lounges, members can also expect: • Access to the Concorde Room at London Heathrow and New York JFK; • Dedicated reservations and members’ services phone numbers; • Access to Special Service teams at most major gateways; • Waived fees for select ticket services, including rush processing, re-issue, and Avios redeposit (fare rules still apply); • Priority upgrades when the cabin is oversold.
ity Platinum status for executive or personal assistant; • Eight free upgrades from economy to business class when travelling on a Virgin Australia domestic Flexi fare, which can also be redeemed for a companion when the member is travelling; • Two confirmed economy seats on any already-full Virgin Australia flight up until 45 minutes before departure for domestic flights or 90 minutes for international services; • The Club Executive Services is available to members 24/7 for bookings, upgrades and enquiries; • Meet and greet and flexible baggage allowance.
QANTAS – CHAIRMAN’S LOUNGE
offering networking opportunities, stylish interiors, spas, exquisite food and personal attention, and for including a personal notification when flights are ready for boarding), other benefits are reported to include: • Complimentary upgrades when flying Qantas; • Personalised, exclusive services from the Qantas service team.
Photos: courtesy of Delta; British Airways; Qantas; Virgin Australia; Emirates
Billed as one of the most exclusive clubs in Australia, Chairman’s Lounge membership is by invitation only and is usually granted to politicians, CEOs and celebrities, regardless of their programme status with the airline. In addition to the personalised service received in the hidden-door Chairman’s Lounges at major Australian airports (renowned for
EMIRATES - INVITATION ONLY (IO) The clue is in the title. When it comes to one of the most opulent airlines in the world, Emirates’ Invitation Only members can expect an unparalleled flying experience. Entry requirements include a minimum of 50 flights in first or business class at full-fare rates, allowing members to take advantage of: • A membership card personally delivered by a senior Emirates sales manager;
• Matching luggage tags and Mont Blanc wallet; • Gold elite card for a companion; • A private phone number unique to each member for reservations and queries, with a dedicated personal service agent who greets the member by name; • Guaranteed business class seat on any Emirates flight; • Service provided as a ‘High Value Customer +’.
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WHEN DREAMS COME TRUE MCLAREN 720S
LIGHTER, FASTER AND THE FIRST OF 15 NEW-GENERATION SUPERCARS BY MCLAREN, THE 720S RAISES THE BAR IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE.
ike Flewitt is a man who dreams big, but unlike many of us, most of his dreams come true. Of course, it helps that he is a shrewd and wealthy business man; it also helps that he is CEO of a highly successful hypercar business that shares technology with a top Formula One team and that he is the driving force – excuse the pun – behind some of the most desirable cars to hit the road. He also has the benefit of
Photos: courtesy of McLaren
a team of highly qualified engineers and designers to help make his automobile concepts a firm reality. The latest dream to come out of the Woking factory bears the somewhat mundane moniker of 720S. It’s a simple but perfunctory way of describing what is one of the most incredible road cars in the world, and one that is going to take some beating. Launched at the Geneva Motor show this year, the 720S is being promoted as the big brother to the 650S, and will be a faster, lighter, roomier and more aerodynamic Super Series model than its predecessor. Those are bold statements, particularly given the shattering performance and reputation of the 650S, but early indications are that the 720S will fulfill all expectations. McLaren supremo Ron Denis has publicly stated that in the 720S McLaren can prove that they have developed the best road-going performance car in the world. Other hypercars, it seems, will quite literally be playing catch-up.
delivery throughout the rev range. But it’s not just the engine. The chassis is based on a new carbon fibre cage, dubbed Monocage II, which fully incorporates the upper structure and windscreen surround, making the overall cockpit 18kg lighter than the 650S, and significantly more rigid too. While the cage is stronger and lighter, its fundamental position has also changed too, thanks to a repositioning of the engine plenum and a lower placement of the center of gravity. The 720S is taking McLaren closer to its goal of achieving a jet-fighter sensation on the road. It’s a bold ideal, but the 720S actually comes close to really taking your breath away.
FLUID VITALITY IN DESIGN LIGHTER AND STRONGER But make no mistake, this isn’t just a facelift model; around 90% of the 720S is new, with the enlarged 4.0-litre engine alone making up around 41% of the new content. The turbos, intercoolers, cast-aluminum plenum, cylinder heads, crankshaft, pistons and exhaust are all redesigned for performance and weight reduction. The twin turbos are now ultra-low-inertia twin-scroll units that ramp up much faster than before in order to reduce turbo-lag and sharpen throttle response. McLaren is aware that the 650S engine was accused by some of lacking character at lower revs and, in response, it has reworked the harmonics to produce a smooth power
The interior, like the outer body, has been beautifully sculpted. The 720S cockpit has been almost completely re-designed to meld everyday luxury with the thrilling feel of a racecar. The steering wheel is alive with buttons and displays perfectly situated for the driver to catch all of the car’s crucial stats at a quick glance. Overall, the 720S is the car that McLaren wanted to build when it first planned a road car. It takes huge elements from the racetrack and moulds them into a car that delivers performance and style that is miles ahead of the opposition. With the 720S out of the stable, and Mike Flewitt’s dream realised, the hyper-performance car market just turned serious.
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POWER & GRACE LAMBORGHINI MURCIÉLAGO LP640 VERSACE WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE SHEER POWER OF A LAMBORGHINI MEETS DECADENT ITALIAN STYLE? THE LAMBORGHINI MURCIÉLAGO LP640 VERSACE. A CLASSIC OF THE FUTURE.
top design houses. With the 2008 Murciélago LP640, Lamborghini did it once again. In collaborating with the Versace design house, the Bologna manufacturer created a car to stir all of the senses and leave the customer shaken with exhilaration. Limited to just twenty roadster units, only eight of them were ever destined for general sale through the company, with the remaining twelve units released to specially selected ‘customers of repute’ well known to the board of directors. The design was seen as one of the premier models in a range of collaborations with Maison designers, and featured all available extras as well as a host of bespoke refinements. While it was pow-
Photos: courtesy of Lamborghini
nown for its iconic supercars, Lamborghini has always had an eye for design. Ever since the startling Miura went on sale in 1966, the Italian company has been at the forefront of innovative and desirable car technology. Much of that appeal is driven by superlative engineering, as well as the staggering performance its cars can achieve; but if Lamborghini were to be defined by one aspect only, it would have to be its pure style. Lamborghini has a grand tradition of working with external design houses to produce creations of ultimate aspiration. Whether it is Riva, Vogue, or Mizuno, Lamborghini has been associated with some of the world’s
Of course, the model benefitted from the best of Lamborghini’s engineering expertise, with the additional option of E-gear transmission instead of the standard six-speed manual, as well as a premium infotainment system and super-powerful ceramic brakes to bring it to a fast stop. This is a car that was truly built for the customer, using the very best technical capability of this high-performance manufacturer, together with all the refinements that one would expect from an international fashion designer.
ered by the standard model’s 6.5 litre, V12 engine, it sported a series of refinements by the ad personam (or personalisation) team, including Versace-stitched Nero Porseus leather seats, specially designed Hermera wheel rims, a transparent glass engine hood, and unique carbon finish in either black or white.
The LP640 also comes with a host of Versace-designed couture extras, including a personalised luggage set – one for her, one for him – in monogrammed black calfskin with a white silk interior. Naturally the baggage is sculpted to fit the Murciélago’s stowage compartment perfectly, and incised with the owner’s details and car serial number. The luggage can be paired with the Versace blue calfskin driving shoes, driving gloves and Versace Chrono Matt Soft Touch watch, specially designed to accompany the car by the Versace ‘Precious Items’ division, that come as standard with the car. Nine years on and still revered, the Murciélago LP640 Versace is a true collector’s car that reflects the very real desire for style and perfection felt by Lamborghini’s clients. The design chronicles a unique stage in Lamborghini’s symbiosis with some of Italy’s classic design houses, and with the car being ultra-rare, very few have ever come up for resale. Cars like this are few and far between, and if another one of this pedigree ever does come to market, it will certainly not remain unsold for long.
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BMW MOTORRAD: THE FUTURE STARTS HERE WHEN TECHNOLOGY MEETS CUTTING-EDGE VISION, COURTESY OF THE BMW MOTORRAD VISION NEXT 100, WE GET A GLIMPSE INTO THE FUTURE OF TRANSPORT.
MW has always striven to deliver products that are ahead of the curve. Innovation has been a byword of the company since it graduated from manufacturing aircraft engines—its badge logo is a depiction of a spinning propeller—to become a renowned car and motorcycle designer. The BMW Motorrad motorcycle line has its roots in the R32 with its iconic flat-twin boxer engine which would become the defining feature of the German manufacturer in the decades that followed. While BMW has branched out in its engine configurations, it now offers single-cylinder engines on smaller bikes and fearsome straight-fours on some of its high-range models. But as BMW has expanded into the luxury car market, it hasn’t forgotten where it came from, and how constant innovation makes a market leader.
The Vision Next 100 concept bike, showcasing future technology including zeroemissions electric power, a ‘Flexi-frame’ that improves handling, active tyres that adapt to the terrain and a ‘Self-Levelling System’ rendering the machine uncrashable
BREAKING THE MOULD The Motorrad ethos has always been forward-looking, and it shows no signs of abating now. BMW Motorrad may be owned by a rich and innovative automobile manufacturer, but it is one that is not afraid to break the mould. The high concept Motorrad Vision Next 100 echoes this principle and is founded on the central tenets that define BMW’s vision of the future. This vision is one of versatility, connectivity, low emissions, strong diversity and being tailored to the customer’s needs. BMW sees the future as one in which the product fits the customer, rather than the customer accepting something that doesn’t suit them completely.
Photos: courtesy of BMW Global
A PERSONALISED VISION Vision Next 100 is all about creating products that benefit the customer and the environment in a way that no other manufacturer has even considered, and by fusing ergonomics with the latest technology, BMW hopes to push the limits of personalisation. Creating products that are relevant yet innovative is key to the Vision Next 100 which will have a different message for each BMW brand. The core BMW vision is one of excitement through innovation: the Mini brand vision focuses on individualised urban mobility, the Rolls Royce vision epitomises bespoke luxury, while the Motorrad vision aims to focus on unlimited pleasure and freedom in riding.
INVESTMENT IN DESIGN All of this requires flexibility in manufacturing and a solid investment in novel materials and design, as well as embracing new technologies. This runs a particular risk, as it may mean incorporating resources that are so new that they may not yet have been fully proven. That is the challenge for any truly innovative company, and BMW has the people and skills to make sure that it works. By making products that people not only want but actually aspire to, BMW retains its customer base and remains the manufacturer of choice for a huge section of the market. BMW is marketing its brand as one of sheer driving pleasure, and its reputation for solid engineering brilliance matched with cutting-edge innovation is only going to win ever more supporters.
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KINGS AND PRINCES A GAME OF THE MONTE-CARLO POLO CUP COMBINES THREE DAYS OF MAGNIFICENT HORSEMANSHIP WITH A SOCIAL EVENT PAR EXCELLENCE. THE GREAT AND THE GOOD, FROM POLITICAL FIGURES TO CELEBRITIES AND ROYALTY, JOIN FORCES TO CELEBRATE THE EXCLUSIVE SPORT IN THIS FIFTH EDITION OF THE TOURNAMENT, SET TO TAKE PLACE AT THE MONTE-CARLO POLO CLUB IN SEPTEMBER. Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene of Monaco and Francesco Mitrano, President of the Polo Federation in Monaco
f any sport could match Monte-Carlo’s reputation as a pleasure dome for the well heeled and wealthy, it is polo, the sport of kings. It has never been a better time to become a fan, with this year’s Monte-Carlo Polo Cup heating up to be one of the most exciting yet. The modern game of polo originated among British officers in northeast India during the 1800s, and from there its popularity has spread around the globe. The polo club is at the heart of the game (in this case, the Monte-Carlo Polo Club, no less), which you might expect with a sport that requires space for four-a-side teams charging thoroughbred horses at each other without clashing.
Polo Team Elena Sivoldaeva (Title Sponsor)
Photos: courtesy of Monte-Carlo Polo Club
THE ORIGINS OF MONTE-CARLO POLO CLUB The Monte-Carlo Polo Club was founded in 2013 by Francesco Mitrano and remains the only official polo club in the principality. It is located at Saint-Martin de Peille in the secluded hills of Monaco. The grounds hark back to classic British park architecture and are as well groomed as the horses on display. Mitrano himself is the captain of the Monaco Polo Club team and winner of last year’s cup. He was introduced to the game many years ago when his friend Salvatore Ferragamo created the Florentine Polo Club and began his training in the capital of contemporary polo in Argentina. Mitrano decided to open the club near his residence in Monaco with the enthusiastic patronage of Prince Albert II. His aim was to bring to Monaco a sport that matched the location – to create “an art of living in symbiosis.” His event cultivated an enormous interest in the sport by local players, bringing to life many other smaller events and exciting polo fans, new and old. The first Polo Cup was held during the opening year of the club and it has quickly grown to become one of the biggest international polo events, attended last year by Prince Albert of Monaco and his wife Princess Charlene. Of course when you bring polo and Monaco together, you don’t simply get a tournament; you get a festival of opulence.
A TRULY THOROUGHBRED TOURNAMENT The Cup begins with a press conference at the iconic Monte-Carlo Casino: James Bond’s official hangout and the site of the infamous Formula 1 Grand Prix parade. This is followed the next day by the opening
Sir Roger George Moore and family
ceremony, consisting of a parade of the knights, an evening soirée and VIP cocktails. Cocktails are offered throughout the tournament, but here they are officially scheduled in, which means the VVIPs among a crowd of VIPs may expect something extra ostentatious. The opening horse polo parade, the first in history, is followed by three days of polo matches with the semi-final, final and trophy ceremony all taking place on the last day. The only break is a charity beachside gala held on the second evening. Despite Mitrano’s continued push for polo to be readmitted to the Olympics, there is no ignoring some of the finer elements that go hand-in-hand with the game – including, in this case, a fashion show and ladies’ hat competition - which ensure that polo remains much more than a sport. Whether you’re a competitor on the field or a guest sipping champagne in glamorous style on the sidelines, this event is the pinnacle of polo. Monte-Carlo Polo Cup 2017 21-24 September 2017 www.montecarlopoloclub.mc
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TECHNOLOGY FULFILS ITS PURPOSE WHEN IT MAKES A REAL-WORLD DIFFERENCE TO OUR EVERYDAY LIVES. WE BRING YOU SEVEN LIFESTYLE INNOVATIONS THAT WILL REVOLUTIONISE BOTH HOME AND PLAY.
KURI HOME ROBOT Kuri has the appearance of an otherworldly robot snowman and operates like a mobile Amazon Echo with advanced facial and speech recognition abilities. This 20-inch-tall wheeled companion by Mayfield Robotics can be programmed to help with a range of tasks. Kuri can play music, read stories, set reminders and patrol your hallways with the HD cameras he has for eyes. A powerful internal motor allows Kuri to traverse tricky terrain and his learning functionality means he wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tumble down stairs or get lost behind the curtains.
Cycling has traditionally been a low-fi experience, but not for much longer. Tech giant LeEco plans to launch a smart bike this year complete with a four-inch touch screen panel built into the handlebars, including satellite-navigation, compass, speedometer, radio, walkie-talkie and fitness tracker. It even has advanced lighting and security features, such as a laser beam bicycle lane displayed on either side of the bike. It comes in both a road bike and mountain bike version and will run on Android using a Snapdragon 410 processor.
GITA CARGO VEHICLE Vespa pioneer Piaggio has created what might be one of the most unique items on this list: an electronic suitcase that can follow its owner, leaving him or her marvellously hands free. This electric blue barrel by the Piaggio Fast Forward team works by storing up to 40 pounds of possessions in its securely held body. Through a mixture of 3D mapping and ingenious engineering, Gita is able to follow its owner at speeds of up to 22mph across all terrains on its bicycle-style wheels, avoiding obstacles along the way. The vehicleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tracking and monitoring abilities allow it to travel to prior destinations by itself and a single battery charge can last for up to eight hours. The days of dragging around heavy luggage may soon be a thing of the past.
Photos: courtesy of Mayfield Robotics; LeEco; Piaggio Fast Forward; Sleep Number; Future Motion; PowerVision; Parrot
LeECO SMART BIKE
360 SMART BED Sleep Number is set to release a bed with brains. You begin by pairing the luxurious bed with the SleepIQ app and from there it begins to enhance your sleep patterns. The mattress is equipped with what it calls ResponsiveAir technology that is able to gently sculpt the contours of the bed in response to the position in which you are lying. It is even sensitive to two separate people sleeping in the same bed. If it hears snoring the bed will raise the snorer’s head to help them breathe more easily. Get ready for a truly restful night’s slumber.
ONEWHEEL+ The Onewheel+ is Future Motion’s premium upgrade to the original sports board model unveiled in 2014. As the name implies, it is a motorised board that uses one large all-terrain wheel to get you around in exhilarating style. The board rests on either side of the wheel like a seesaw and is balanced using an electronic stabilisation system. Intended to replicate the feeling of snowboarding on powder, its unique design allows for an impressive turning circle and a smooth ride. The latest design includes an enhanced sensor and improved Hypercore balancing, and offers greater customisation. When it comes to hightech boarding, one wheel is better than two.
POWERRAY Taking fishing to a new level, the PowerVision-designed PowerRay can be sent up to 30 metres underwater to locate fish with a sonar detecting system. Once it has spotted its target – it has a range of up to 70 metres – it transmits images back to the user’s phone via Wi-Fi. As well as spotting fish, the PowerRay can be used for attaching bait or to lure fish with its in-built lighting system. PowerRay can also record 4K video, giving users a first-person immersive underwater experience while on dry land.
PARROT DISCO FPV The Parrot Disco FPV drone is built to fly like a plane. The piloting experience is taken further with a first-person-view headset that puts you right in the cockpit. While soaring along you can record dramatic HD footage of your adventure. Where the drone really opens new ground is with the Parrot Skycontroller. Here everyone is able to pilot the device with ease using automatic take-off and landing, as well as assisted piloting to get you through trickier manoeuvres.
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SMART HOMES: HOMES FOR SMART PEOPLE THE MARK OF A LUXURY HOME USED TO BE ITS LOCATION, DÉCOR, AND THE BEST IN UNDERSTATED FURNISHINGS. NOW IT’S THE TECHNOLOGICAL CAPABILITY OF OUR HOME THAT SIGNALS THE MODERNITY OF OUR DOMAINS. WE EXPLORE THE DAWN OF THE SMART HOME.
efining a smart home is not simply a consideration of the overt technology that low-cost electronics have bought us. That 96-inch flat screen TV and Wi-Fi enabled personal assistant do not make a smart home, they make something much less – an illusion of what is really possible. Driven by the Internet of Things (IoT), the best smart homes are designed from the ground up, integrating artificial intelligence from the
start, rather than simply having a series of independent systems plugged into them, almost as an afterthought. That doesn’t mean that a good system can’t use much of the technology commercially available, but it becomes much more integrated, connecting with many other individual systems to augment the entire design. With that in mind, you can think of smart abilities as relating to three key areas: security, comfort, and attributes.
SECURE YOUR HOME REMOTELY
Photos: courtesy of Franck Boston/sukanda26/gstockstudio/123rf
Security is a concern for everyone, but by installing intelligent devices it becomes less of a worry. Smart alarms typically refer to systems that can be used remotely, allowing you to activate them, lock down your house and view it through interconnected cameras from anywhere in the world via a smart phone. Plainly then, part of your smart security can include remote access locks, but smart systems go beyond that too, encompassing smart card technology which can be configured to allow your guests (and staff) access to specific areas of the home.
MAINTAIN YOUR PERFECT COMFORT LEVELS Comfort includes the ability to control your environment via proximity sensors or smart assistants that register your presence and act accordingly. Smart glass is becoming an essential part of a home’s design, and provides the ability to make glass change from clear to opaque at the flick of a switch. Smart glass technology is rapidly gaining popularity in residential interior design, and since it is highly customizable, it offers a range of benefits for designers and allows for experimentation in both space and colour. Smart glass can replace curtains and drapes, making a house open and airy during the day but secure from prying eyes
at the flick of a switch. The luxury smart home of today offers self-flushing toilets as standard, self-regulating solar panels, fridges, and automatic water purification systems.
USE YOUR VOICE The growing number of home assistants available gives testament to their abilities when linked with flexible, adaptable smart-connection apps such as IFTTT (‘If This Then That’ is a web service that aggregates many other web apps into one place and can then perform actions given a certain set of criteria). This gives the owner of a smart home almost endless possibilities for controlling heating and lighting independently in each room, and even having it switch as you walk from area to area, controlled by an army of Alexas or Google Home devices. Voice activation and control is edging towards intelligence all the time, and offers ever more options in terms of how you control the smart devices in your home. Architects are now considering smart devices to be a normal part of luxury home design, and are incorporating them using an ever-increasing pool of available products. It won’t be too many years before the concept of manually adjusting any function of our home environment will be entirely alien to us.
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MORPHEUS GOD OF DREAMS
DESIGNED BY RENOWNED ARCHITECT, THE LATE ZAHA HADID, MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT, THE DEVELOPER OF CASINO GAMING AND ENTERTAINMENT COMPLEX FACILITIES IN ASIA, IS SET TO LAUNCH A NEW ADDITION TO ITS CITY OF DREAMS RESORT IN THE HEART OF COTAI, MACAU.
orpheus, fittingly named after the God of Dreams, will be the fifth hotel tower of the luxurious, integrated complex known as the City of Dreams. Opening in 2018, the majestically named complex is majestic in nature too, promising a combination of VIP gaming facilities, specialty restaurants, and guest rooms far exceeding 5-star standards.
rectangular monolithic block, will feature an exposed exoskeleton and a series of carved distinctive voids through the centre. These create a selection of sky bridges, which not only provide highly desirable views, but also offer guests the opportunity to enjoy a unique dining experience in one of the sky bridge’s exclusive restaurants.
UNIQUE AND DRAMATIC DESIGN
A HOME IN THE SKY
Appealing to the sophisticated traveller and located along the Cotai strip, Morpheus is the architectural creation of the late, world-renowned London-based architect Dame Zaha Hadid. The tower, a dramatic
The hotel’s powerful external design lays the foundation for an optimised interior layout, with the sculptured walls and ceilings of the hotel defining the internal spaces. With an impressive 40 floors and a gross floor
Photos: courtesy of Zaha Hadid Architects
area of 150,000 square metres, the hotel will house approximately 780 guest rooms, suites, and luxurious sky villas. To accompany the VIP games rooms and high-class dining options, guests can enhance their stay with a visit to the indulgent hotel spa. But that’s not all. Guests will be free to relax, swim, and socialise in the breathtaking infinity sky pool, 130 metres off the ground, whilst taking in extraordinary views of the city’s fascinating landscape. Naturally, guests can also take advantage of the direct access the hotel provides to the ground-level retail strip and the extensive entertainment network that the City of Dreams offers. Meeting and event facilities are also accessible, giving guests the opportunity to host conferences, corporate events, and important business meetings in truly impressive surroundings. This level of versatility and the high standard of accommodation and facilities sets the Morpheus apart from its competitors in the region.
THE HOTEL’S POWERFUL EXTERNAL DESIGN LAYS THE FOUNDATION FOR AN OPTIMISED INTERIOR LAYOUT, WITH THE SCULPTURED WALLS AND CEILINGS OF THE HOTEL DEFINING THE INTERNAL SPACES
ESTABLISHED FORMAL COHESION The design of the generous guest rooms, suites, and sky villas will be further enhanced by the building’s expressive structural framework that establishes formal cohesion throughout the tower. If the impressive exterior wasn’t enough, guests will also have the chance to admire the structural design from striking panoramic observation lifts which run through the atrium and offer guests a whole new perspective of the intriguing framework. The hotel’s architecture deserves to be admired, and the original design enables just that, whilst offering a first-class stay for the high-class traveller. The development of the new hotel commenced in 2013 and, since then, the team behind this ground-breaking project has worked tirelessly to ensure that the build is on track to be completed by its scheduled 2018 completion date. It might be a work in progress but, once complete, Morpheus will be a hotel to be reckoned with.
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FOR A HOLIDAY THAT IS TRULY OUT OF THE ORDINARY, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN AN EXTRAORDINARY SAFARI THROUGH THE MAJESTIC WILDERNESS OF TANZANIA AND NAMIBIA.
majestic lion stretches and yawns after feasting, 500lbs of pure muscle and tawny fur relaxing in the sunshine. A mother elephant stretches her trunk to embrace her baby, her enormous ears waving like flags. A herd of giraffes saunter across the plain as the red sun gently sinks on the horizon, spindly legs and graceful necks making long shadows in the waving grassland. Seeing these incredible sights with your own eyes is a travel experience that is difficult to surpass. A safari in Tanzania or Namibia is a
Etosha National Park, Namibia
chance to venture into the wild and largely unspoilt bush land to seek out predators and prey in their natural habitat. Start the day with a sunrise game drive, where experienced local guides will ensure that you have the best possible chance of seeing the wildlife up close. Take in the culture of local tribes and learn about their unique way of life before spending the evening relaxing around the campfire and sharing stories while millions of stars twinkle above. Life experiences are the new luxury and this trip will help make memories like no other.
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SAFARIS IN TANZANIA
WHAT YOU WILL SEE There are more than 430 different species of wild animal in Tanzania. Serengeti National Park is legendary for the annual zebra and wildebeest migration, and
BEST TIME OF YEAR Tanzania offers excellent wildlife viewing throughout the year. The wildebeest migration takes place during June and July, but the overall best season for game viewing is from June to October. This is the dry season, so the bush will be less dense and the animals will congregate around the watering holes, making them easier to see.
SAFARIS IN NAMIBIA Wildlife safaris in Namibia can be a truly extraordinary experience. The landscape of huge sand dunes and volcanic mountains is so surreal that it might make you feel like you have travelled to a different planet. The fourth-largest nation in Africa, Namibia has some of the largest yet least known game parks in the world. The range of climates within this country means that you will discover a range of diverse ecosystems during your visit.
Photos: courtesy of Hoanib Skeleton Coast; Wilderness Safaris; Lake Manyara Tree Lodge; &Beyond; Reynard van As at Tourism That Cares; Luxury African Safaris; 123rf
A recent two year study by an online market place for safaris resulted in over 1,000 industry experts voting Tanzania as the best country in Africa for safaris. Nearly a third of Tanzania is protected for wildlife viewing and these regions are considered to have some of the best safari locations in the world. If you have always dreamed of seeing the Big Five in the wild, then add Tanzania to your travel bucket list right now. Here you will find the Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Craterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;two of the most famous safari destinations in the world. Ngorongoro is the largest unbroken volcanic caldera on earth. Tanzania is also home to Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa. Make your way to Selous Game Reserve, which is one of the largest protected areas in the world. Boat safaris often spot crocodiles and hippos. Be sure to take some time to get to know the Maasai culture in Tanzania by taking tours of farms, villages and sustainable projects. You can also take a detour to Zanzibar, with its exotic culture, sandy beaches and superb snorkelling. Or, head to Lake Manyara, which was a personal favourite of Ernest Hemingway during his African adventures.
at the Ngorongoro Crater you have a good chance of seeing rhinos, hippos and lions. Tarangire National Park is famous for its enormous herds of elephants and beautiful baobab trees. Buffalos, lions and hyena are abundant. Other animals that you might see include giraffes, gazelles, antelopes, dik-diks, kudus and buffalos. Keep your binoculars and camera at the ready and your eyes trained on the horizon as you roam the land in an open-topped safari vehicle.
When you visit Namibia, you will immediately feel that tourism is different here. The vibe is low-key and there are many small, environmentally sustainable lodges in the remote and beautiful corners of the wilderness. You may also be lucky enough to meet the Khoisan people, who represent one of the earliest formed unique human genetic groups and whose language has an unmistakable “click” sound.
The dry season from June to October is the best time of year for seeing wildlife. In the wet season, the animals will be further away from the waterholes and harder to find throughout the parks. Although most tourists visit during the dry season, the parks don’t feel overcrowded. Be sure to bring warm clothing because it can be very cold during the early morning game drives.
WHAT YOU WILL SEE This country has the highest population of cheetahs in all of Africa, so there is a good chance that you will see one of these sleek spotted cats on your adventures. You might also see leopards and black rhinos, as well as lions, zebras, elephants and antelope. Zebras are easy to spot in the bushland because their eye-catching black and white stripes stand out. The most frequently seen animals are antelopes, or oryx, with their long spiky horns. You might also spot kudus, with their striking spiral horns. To stand the best chance of seeing an elephant, visit the Etosha National Park in the north of the country. It is also possible to see wild horses in the arid regions of Namibia. The Skeleton Coast of Namibia is home to a large colony of Cape Fur Seals. These large coastal beasts are the only species of seal in the world that has external ears.
BEST TIME OF YEAR Namibia does not receive nearly as much rain as other African nations, so the climate is dry and pleasant throughout the year.
THE VIBE IS LOW-KEY AND THERE ARE MANY SMALL, ENVIRONMENTALLY SUSTAINABLE LODGES IN THE REMOTE AND BEAUTIFUL CORNERS OF THE WILDERNESS
The majestic Skeleton Coast of Namibia
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An elegant tented suite awaits at Hoanib Skeleton Coast
WHERE TO STAY High end, private guided safari experiences are the best way to see the incredible wildlife that Tanzania and Namibia have to offer while travelling in style and comfort.
HOANIB SKELETON COAST, NAMIBIA BY WILDERNESS SAFARIS Located in one of the most remote areas of the Kaokoveld and flanked by hills on the east and west, the Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is the ideal base from which to explore Namibiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vast remote wilderness and unique desert wildlife. Surrounded by sand dunes and lush oases, this camp consists of one family unit and seven large tents that each contains luxurious en-suite bedrooms and covered outdoor decks. It operates on 100% solar power, with a design that makes as little impact as possible on the fragile desert surroundings.
A space to relax and rejuvenate after a thrilling game drive
Lake Manyara Tree Lodge brings the outdoors in with charm and style
LAKE MANYARA TREE LODGE, TANZANIA BY &BEYOND Lake Manyara Tree Lodge is the only permanently located luxury lodge in Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania and it is known for its elegant and romantic stilted tree houses within the mahogany forest. The lodge perfectly balances its unique brand of luxury with the natural beauty of the wild forest surroundings and when you wake up you will experience the forest with all of your senses from a generous wooden deck. The park is renowned for the strange tree-climbing lions, pink flamingo, Masai giraffes and families of elephants. Look out for other unusual residents, including the Cape clawless otter, Egyptian mongoose and olive baboon.
A safari holiday can still include a little pampering at Lake Manyara Tree Lodge
Fly directly into the remote hotspots of Tanzania with Luxury African Safaris
SEVEN DAY ITINERARY IN TANZANIA BY LUXURY AFRICAN SAFARIS This â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;fly-inâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; safari is perfect for anyone who seeks the extra convenience of flying around Tanzania in order to see the major highlights in a short amount of time without losing hours on the road between each lodge. You will be on a trip with a maximum of eight people, flying in ultimate comfort between the three main areas of Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Tarangire. The journey includes several of the most elegant and luxurious Tanzanian safari lodges, including Tarangire Treetop Lodge and The Manor at Ngorongoro, as well as activities such as visiting an authentic Masai village, horseback riding and a night game drive.
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TAKE TO THE SEAS IN
TIMELESS STYLE PICTURE YOURSELF SWIMMING THROUGH A RAINBOW-HUED CORAL REEF IN THE RAJA AMPAT ARCHIPELAGO, WATCHING AN ENORMOUS KOMODO DRAGON SLEEPING IN THE SUNSHINE OR GAZING OUT AT THE SEA WHILE THE SUN SETS OVER A VOLCANIC ISLAND. THIS IS NO ORDINARY CRUISE, IT IS AN AMAN CRUISE.
amed for the meticulous design and privacy of its exclusive resorts in the most revered natural and historical landscapes, Aman resorts has crafted a sailing package in Indonesia that stands out from the rest. The Aman cruise experience is like no other: truly excelling when it comes to the quality of the vessel and the spellbinding activities on offer.
THE AMANDIRAâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;A VESSEL LIKE NO OTHER The Amandira is not just a ship, it is a work of art. This two masted sailing ship was lovingly hand-crafted by the Konjo tribe (a sub-ethnic group of the Bugis-Makassar people) and it was officially launched in 2015. It is designed in the style of a traditional Phinisi vessel, evoking the romance of the ancient spice trade routes. This gorgeous, historically inspired ship has sailed far and wide around Indonesia, from the waters of Komodo National Park to the Raja Ampat Islands.
Photos: courtesy of Aman
Although the Amandira was built using ancient techniques, it includes all of the modern comforts that a passenger could wish for, including stunning interior design and a powerful engine. This means that the ship’s engine can supplement the sails when the winds are calm. The Amandira is an ideal blend of old fashioned elegance with high-tech performance. Available for exclusive charter, the Amandira can accommodate up to 10 guests, which means that you and your party can expect a laid back and intimate sailing experience. When you enter your state of the art room on-board, you will find yourself surrounded by the ultimate in luxury. The cabins are spacious and the king bed cabins are equipped with living areas that include a writing desk and sofa, as well as expansive bathrooms. There is no reason to sacrifice comfort and style, even in the most remote locations at sea.
ADVENTURE OR RELAXATION—WHAT’S YOUR SPEED? Whether you seek a thrilling getaway or a relaxing retreat, the Amandira can cater for both. For the thrill seeker, you will be able to gain your PADI certification with a qualified instructor. Then, you can experience the thrill of immersing yourself below the surface of the warm, clear tropical waters and observing the dazzling array of marine life below. The Aman diving team are true professionals and they cater to all levels of snorkelers and scuba divers, making sure that you have up close and personal encounters with parrot fish, moray eels, sea turtles, spotted rays and many other local species. However, if you are looking for a quieter and more soothing getaway, you can simply sit on the deck of the boat and enjoy sipping cocktails as the sun dips over the horizon. The expansive foredeck offers amazing views and there is even an on-board masseur offering sublime massages. Whether you prefer a vacation that is filled with exciting adventure and exploration or you are simply looking for an opportunity to relax and get away from it all, this cruise is an unforgettable seafaring experience.
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A BALI ESCAPE IMAGINE WAKING UP TO THE SOUND OF THE WAVES, STEPPING OUT ONTO YOUR HOTEL BALCONY INTO THE WARM BREEZE AND GAZING OUT AT THE SHIMMERING INDIAN OCEAN. THIS IS EVERYDAY LIFE AT THE BANYAN TREE UNGASAN BALI.
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commodation, making you feel like you have this beautiful paradise all to yourself.
PREPARE TO FIND CALM As you walk into a Banyan Tree villa it’s hard not to breathe a sigh of calm. With views of the sea, a jet pool and an infinity pool and an airy, open plan design, it’s the ultimate place to relax. Each of the villas is slightly different, some having garden views and others being perched on a cliff edge overlooking the swirling ocean waters. The little details within the villa make comfort inevitable, such as plush king size beds and a high tech BOSE sound system. Refreshments are at hand from the com-
Photos: courtesy of Banyan Tree
taying at the Banyan Tree Ungasan Bali is to become so relaxed you feel as if you have been put under a very special kind of spell. You’ll feel like your feet are floating across the pool deck, or that you are levitating in your lounge chair. The serene setting is dreamlike, surrounded as you are by minimalist Balinese villas reaching out to the blue horizon and an infinity pool that reflects the ever-changing colours of the sky. It’s evident that a lot of thought and care has gone into crafting these elegant villas, in order to make them as sophisticated and luxurious as possible. The way that the Banyan Tree resort is laid out means that other villas are barely visible when you are relaxing in your ac-
plimentary daily mini bar and the huge, spa-like marble bathroom is built for lingering.
TOP NOTCH AMENITIES Invigorate yourself with a workout at the gym, complete with state of the art equipment and an aerobic room. Or, jump into the infinity pool and swim to the end, where it feels like the deep blues of the pool, the Indian Ocean and the cloudless sky merge into one. The fitness centre also offers yoga classes, to reduce stress, promote blood flow, stabilise the emotions and combat fatigue. Finding inner calm is a little easier in Bali. This resort caters to couples with plenty of sophisticated and romantic experiences. Whether you are travelling for a honeymoon, anniversary or just because, the resort can arrange for private dining on a cliff under the night’s sky or a couple’s spa treatment.
Imagine the surprise on your special someone’s face when you treat them to the Intimate Moments Bath Set Up, in which your bathroom is totally transformed with candles, aromatic oils, chilled wine and beautiful tropical floral arrangements. If your therapy comes in retail form, the resort also features the Banyan Tree Gallery, where you can find a collection of hand crafted works of art and other souvenirs.
AN ANTIDOTE TO STRESS The resort is dedicated to the local creed of Bali Dwipa Jaya, which translates as Glorious Bali Island. This translates into the relaxing, laidback atmosphere of the resort, typical of the Balinese way of life, and the way the staff are dedicated to creating the best possible environment for you to unwind during your stay. Find your bliss.
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THE ART OF SEEKING
SECLUSION IF YOU’RE SEARCHING FOR A PRIVATE PARADISE THIS SUMMER, WE’VE FOUND IT. THE SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON RESORT IS LOCATED ON THE PRIVATE ISLAND OF FÉLICITÉ IN THE SEYCHELLES, A MAGICAL HIDEAWAY AS PERFECT AS IN YOUR IMAGINATION.
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THE VILLAS Every inch of the villas at Six Senses Zil Pasyon is designed to offer the ultimate in pampering. The Hideaway Pool Villas have a private sundeck, an infinity pool and gorgeous views shaded by tropical vegetation to enhance privacy. The spacious and spa-like bathroom features a rain shower and a swing in front of the bathtub. Although the villas have a classic, historical elegance they are also equipped with the most advanced technologies to control the 55-inch TV, lighting and air conditioning. Bluetooth speakers are standard and guests enjoy unlimited in-room wireless internet access. No mean feat for such a remote paradise. The Panorama Pool Villas are perched on high points on the surrounding hillside, offering breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean. These villas feature a dining table and a daybed and your own personal infinity pool.
Photos: courtesy of Six Senses
t doesn’t get much better than breathing in the fresh sea air of this stunning resort in the Seychelles. Félicité is a private island of rugged granite rocks and forestation, splendidly sequestered in the Indian Ocean, lined with white sand beaches. The island is situated in a perfect location for perpetual summer, just 30 miles northeast of Seychelles International Airport. This resort is designed to integrate beautifully with its natural surroundings, while offering all of the luxurious extras that you would expect from an accommodation of this calibre. Its 30 stylish villas with private pools offer an oasis of serenity, perfect for a honeymoon or to simply escape from the world for a while.
TRAVEL THE PANORAMA POOL VILLAS ARE PERCHED ON HIGH POINTS ON THE SURROUNDING HILLSIDE, OFFERING BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN.
THE FULL RESORT EXPERIENCE Staying at the Six Senses Zil Pasyon resort isn’t just about the gorgeous villas perched in the midst of the wildly beautiful Seychelles. Guests are treated to a range of activities, from water sports to beach activities to nature walks and much more. Situated in a worldclass diving area, guests can partake in PADI certified diving excursions with the qualified dive centres based in nearby Praslin and La Digue. The resort also offers a cinema under the stars experience, a treasure hunt and nature trails to the highest hill. You could also enjoy a kayaking or paddleboard trip to explore the nearby beaches, as well as island hopping by boat. There are even special activities for
the little ones at Trouloulou’s Club, including beach bowling with coconuts, scuba diving for kids, pizza making, cupcake decorating, kite making, treasure hunts and much more.
ORGANIC ISLAND PRODUCE If you have worked up an appetite with all of that adventure, the resort offers superb dining experiences as well. The unique cuisine of the Seychelles has influences from a range of cultures, including French, Chinese, African and English. There are several restaurants on site at the resort and most of the ingredients are grown fresh in its organic gardens. For example, in the Chef’s Kitchen you can dine while watching your food being handcrafted right before your eyes. Then, head to the sultry Lakanbiz Rum Bar for a cocktail while watching the sunset. It’s all part of life on a dreamy paradise island, after all.
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OUR PAMPERED PETS ARE IMPORTANT MEMBERS OF OUR FAMILY AND WHERE WE GO, THEY GO. EMANUELA NARDINI, FOUNDER OF LUXURY PET TRAVEL – THE FIRST PET-ORIENTED ONLINE TRAVEL AGENCY – TELLS US WHAT WE NEED TO KNOW WHEN FLYING WITH OUR PRECIOUS COMPANIONS.
ransportation has changed dramatically in the last hundred years. In old Hollywood movies one could see glamorous film stars carrying their little dogs in their arms whilst travelling elegantly by train or joining a cruise to travel across the Atlantic. Aeroplanes were a limited and exclusive privilege. Today, everything has changed. Whether for work, vacations, visiting friends and family, or simply exploring, we are a generation of global nomads ready to book a flight at a moment’s notice and head to the airport.
PETS ARE NOT CARGO
BUSINESS AND FIRST CLASS Of course, our pets are so very precious to us that we want only the very best for them. And that means business and first class travellers want to have their furry friends as close to them as possible. Some airlines, such as Delta in 2012, have banned pets from premium cabins due to fears over the pets being crushed by flat beds in premium cabins, but airlines like Lufthansa, Swiss and American Airlines have solved the inconvenience by making some structural changes or by offering alternative spaces for pet packs, such as in wardrobes, baggage compartments or under economy seats for take off and landing only.
THE LONG HAUL Most airlines accept pets with a maximum weight of 8kg (with some setting limits of 6kg or a generous 10kg), including the pet-carrier. Pet-carrier sizes depend on the airline’s policy, but it must be waterproof, big enough for the pet to be able to stand, and approved by the International Air Transport Association. Much as you would love to take him or her out for treats or a walk in the cabin, the pet must stay in its carrier during the entire flight. To make the journey more enjoyable for your pet, we suggest you put a blanket and a toy in the
Photos: courtesy of Luxury Pet Travel and Victor Private Jet Charter
For many of us it is important that airlines can accommodate our pets. Not in the cargo compartment, because we believe that a pet is not a piece of luggage. It’s a living being. The dangers linked to this kind of transportation are sadly well known: Temperatures in the cargo hold can fluctuate wildly, it’s dark, the noise can be deafening and air pressure can drop significantly. However, many of the European and American airlines accept cats and small dogs in their cabins. A
pet is welcome on Air France, KLM, Alitalia, SWISS, Austrian Airlines, Aeroflot, Iberia, Lufthansa, SAS, Aer Lingus, Tap Portugal, Delta, United Airlines and American Airlines (although not on transatlantic flights). Some airlines accept pets only in their economy class, which many pet owners consider to be something of a contradiction in terms when it comes to the pampered lifestyle of their pets.
bag, together with fresh water or, better still, ice cubes to avoid over drinking during a long-haul flight.
BEFORE AND AFTER THE JOURNEY JFK Airport in New York City is one of a growing number of airports in the US to have installed a “pet relief area” inside the terminal. This includes a luxury pet toilet – just as your pet deserves. With an increasing proportion of passengers seeking to travel with their pets, European airports are beginning to understand the need to put in place such facilities too. Don’t forget that your pet needs documents to be able to travel. These include a pet passport, vaccination record, and some countries may require a health certificate, which your vet can provide a few days prior to departure. To book a ticket for your pet it is necessary to contact the airline directly and, we suggest, well in advance, as many airlines allow just one pet per cabin.
Bear in mind that the cost will vary from airline to airline and is dependent on your route and that it is not yet possible to book a pet flight online. Bon voyage to you and your pet.
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THE BEST EUROPEAN CITIES FOR PROPERTY INVESTMENT
AS THE PROPERTY MARKET IN EUROPE RECOVERS FROM THE GLOBAL RECESSION, WHICH ARE THE BEST CITIES FOR GROWTH POTENTIAL IN 2017? OVERSEAS PROPERTY BROKER TRANIO HAS ANALYSED PROPERTY PRICE DYNAMICS OVER THE LAST TEN YEARS TO GIVE US THE LOWDOWN ON MAKING A SAVVY INVESTMENT.
ost property market players would agree that when it comes to investing in property, location is everything. To lower risk in any property portfolio, diversity of location is crucial too. “In 2017 we encourage investors to diversify their investments and distribute their capital between different markets,” advises George Kachmazov, managing partner at Tranio. “I would suggest clients put the majority (70%) of their investment capital into low-risk projects that are known to yield 4-5% per annum. Micro-apartments (2030 square metres) in big German cities are perfect for this type of investment due to being inexpensive for
tenants, while attracting relatively high rental revenue per square metre for owners.”
RE-BOUND LOCATIONS For those who wish to make short-term investments, experts recommend choosing markets that have entered the recovery phase post-recession. These are locations where prices have fallen dramatically, but have recently started to rebound and still have considerable growth potential. Such markets favour redevelopment projects and buying property under construction for further speculative resale.
House price index dynamics (2008 = 100) Sources: Na#onal Sta#s#cal Ins#tute of Portugal, Na#onal Bank of Slovakia, Idealista.com, Central Sta#s#cs Oﬃce of Ireland, Imoti.net, Imobiliare.ro 110 100
Lisbon Bratislava Warsaw Barcelona Dublin Soﬁa Madrid Bucharest
90 80 70
In 2017 these strategies are expected to bear fruit in eight European cities: Bucharest, Madrid, Barcelona, Sofia, Dublin, Bratislava, Lisbon and Warsaw. One of Europe’s most promising property markets in 2017 is Bucharest. According to Romanian real estate site Imobiliare, residential property prices in the city fell by 35.4% between 2008 and 2016: from €1,771 to €1,144 per square metre. However, a 5% surge in prices between September 2015 and September 2016 was backed by economic growth: in 2015, the country’s GDP increased by 3.7% (one of the best figures anywhere in Europe). Madrid and Barcelona will also be hot markets in 2017. As a whole, Spain’s economy is growing and its unemployment rate is shrinking. Meanwhile, mortgage rates are low and demand for property is on the rise. All of these factors indicate that the country’s property prices are poised for further growth, and the major cities
are expected to outpace the rest of the country. In Q3 2016, local residential property sold for an average of €2,902 per square metre. “I’d encourage an investor to put 30% of their investment capital into a Spanish redevelopment,” says Kachmazov. “Such projects typically yield 12-15% per annum. Right now the Barcelona property market is ripe with opportunities. Residential property prices in the city are still a far cry from reaching their peak, there is a shortage of newly-built real estate in the city, loan rates have dropped to the minimum level and prices are broadly expected to soar in years to come.” For those who are looking for property in a lower price bracket, Sofia in Bulgaria is an excellent choice. Prices have plummeted by an average of 20.1% in recent years – from €570 per square metre in 2008 to €450 in Q3 2016. However, Sofia’s market is recovering, and buyers have become more active. Low construction volumes are expected to encourage further price growth. The Warsaw market is also poised for growth in 2017. According to the National Bank of Poland (Narodowy Bank Polski), property prices in the city fell by 13.9% between 2008 and 2016: from €2,314 to €1,992 per square metre. Analysts are divided about Poland’s growth prospects however. Trading Economics expects Polish real estate prices to fall slightly in the near future, but expects prices to subsequently return to the 2016 level by 2020. Meanwhile, experts from professional services firm Ernst & Young and real estate firm Knight Frank have displayed considerably more optimism about Polish prices in the coming year.
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LOCATIONS TO MAINTAIN CAPITAL
House price index dynamics (2008 = 100) 290
Sources: Investitionsbank Berlin, Wohnungsboerse.net, Nationwide, Oesterreichische Nationalbank, Sta+s+cs Sweden, Asuntojenhinnat.ﬁ, Eurostat
Berlin London Vienna Stockholm Helsinki Luxembourg
Photos: courtesy of Tranio; Milosh Kojadinovich/Tomasz Wyszolmirski/Felix Pergande/123rf
Those who wish to play it safe and who prefer reliable long-term investments would do well to consider putting their capital into rental properties in stable markets. Residential property prices in many European cities have weathered the storm of the global financial crisis admirably and will see growth until 2020. Berlin has experienced the most dramatic growth, with property prices in Germany’s capital continuing to soar in the years following the crisis. Overall, prices have nearly tripled since 2008, increasing from about
€1,610 per square metre to €4,613, according to German real estate site Wohnungsboerse and a survey by Investitionsbank Berlin. The recent property boom in Berlin is attributable to a number of factors: including the growing population, shrinking unemployment rate, mortgage rates having sunk to an all-time low (1% p.a.) and the construction volume failing to satisfy growing demand. The well-developed rental property market – up to 80% of Berliners rent - has also been attracting investors to the city. Prices in London grew by 84% between 2008 and 2016. According to the Nationwide Building Society, residential property prices in the UK capital grew from an average of €300,000 in 2008 to €560,000 in Q3 2016 (a single square metre in central London costs an average of €18,000). As of late 2016, new-build flats for sale in central London were available at prices that were 1525% lower than prior to the Brexit referendum in June. In 2017, London’s market is expected to stagnate, with dynamics of between -1% and +1% anticipated, but price growth is broadly expected to resume in 2018. The potential for growth is especially high along the commuter belt near Crossrail high-speed railway stations.
This isn’t my rst time ying. But it feels like it is.
Made of Switzerland.
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FAST-FORWARDING LUXURY: BETWEEN
ANALOG AND DIGITAL IS THERE SUCH THING AS ‘DIGITAL LUXURY’? THE FIRST WORD REFERS TO DEMATERIALISATION, MASSIFICATION AND PROGRAMMED OBSOLESCENCE; THE SECOND TO TACTILE PLEASURE, EXCLUSIVITY AND HERITAGE. THIS APPARENT OXYMORON IS ANALYSED BY VICKI LOOMES, SENIOR TREND ANALYST AT TRENDWATCHING, A CONSUMER TREND ANALYTICS COMPANY.
DO YOU NOTICE ANY PARADIGM SHIFT ON THE CONSUMER SIDE AS WELL? Indeed, we have entered a post-demographic world. Gender, age and zip codes are no longer accurate predictors of how people behave. Consumers are more likely, and bet-
ter able, to build the lifestyle they want rather than the one given to them. And brands are responding: Louis Vuitton ran a womenswear campaign fronted by the male actor Jaden Smith; Valentino launched a gender-neutral collection; and more recently Burberry exhibited collections for men and women together in the same show. DIGITAL DEMATERIALISATION AND LUXURY SEEM TO CONFLICT ON MULTIPLE FRONTS, CREATING A TENSION BETWEEN MASSIFICATION AND ULTRA-PERSONALISATION (THE DIGITAL WORLD) AND CONTROLLED EXCLUSIVITY (LUXURY). WHAT IS YOUR TAKE ON THIS? The experience of luxury itself is evolving, combining sharing and showing off. What we have and who we are: these are the two dimensions that luxury brands have to handle. Where do brands fit? What do they have to offer? Cadillac launched Book by Cadillac: a subscription service enabling US residents to drive and swap vehicles for a monthly fee. Technology is also enhancing customer service, leading to frictionless retail. For example, at Am-
Senior Trend Analyst Vicki Loomes
Photos: courtesy of Vicki Loomes; miramiska/123rf
HAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM LUXURY PRODUCTS AND SERVICES OVER THE COMING YEARS? The market is in flux, and things are changing fast. To give you an example, two street food stores in Singapore were recently awarded Michelin stars, leading to the question: what does ‘luxury’ even mean today? Luxury experienced a major shift associated with digital connectivity and on-demand services and products. We observe a transition of aspirations from physical ownership to experience. Economic factors, such as a slowdown in tourism and also in Chinese growth, are at play, but clearly the focus is shifting from what we own to who we are. Social media and self-tracking propel this shift, as people use new platforms to show off their experiences, achievements and self-improvement.
azon Go’s checkout-free grocery store, customers simply collect products from the shelves and go. Those developments will impact consumers’ expectations of luxury brands and the retail experience they provide. AND HOW DO CONSUMERS RECONCILE TECHNOLOGY AND LUXURY? Technology and luxury can also be associated when it comes to identity. Individuals create their own identity, yet at the same time they also want to belong to a group. Forward-thinking luxury brands should consider how they can create a community around the product or service they offer, and how to manage this participation. LUXURY SEEMS TO BE AT ODDS WITH TECHNOLOGY, WHICH REFERS TO PROGRAMMED OBSOLESCENCE, ‘FREEMIUM’ BUSINESS MODELS (PART OF THE SERVICE IS FREE, THE REST REQUIRES PAYMENT) AND ‘MINIMUM VIABLE PRODUCTS’ (PRODUCTS LAUNCHED AS SOON AS THEY ARE STABLE ENOUGH). HOW DO YOU ANALYSE THIS CONTRADICTION? Minimum viable products and freemium models are about managing expectations. When I buy, to what do I measure up what I get? Do I feel special? Consumers benchmark and ask questions. Luxury is aspirational; it is a transfer of expectations. Maybe I will not get the luxury good or service, but I can compare it with what I get when I pay or when I use a freemium model. Luxury sets the benchmark. THERE SEEMS TO BE A TREND TOWARDS A REVIVAL OF ANALOGIC PRODUCTS (VINYL RECORDS, PURELY MECHANICAL OBJECTS). IS THIS A SHORT-LIVED PHENOMENON OR THE EXPRESSION OF A DEEPER TREND? We are driven by nostalgia in a world where everything is digital. Luxury has traditionally been defined by scarcity and exclusivity – the opposite of the digital world. Analogic is very unique. It says something about yourself, your taste, your wealth and your attitude. It is not necessarily anti-digital, but there is room for physical analogic experiences in your life. Digital is essentially intangible.
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A FLAWED DIGITAL SOLUTION? ONLINE PAYMENT PLATFORMS SUCH AS PAYPAL ARE TAKING THE WORLD BY STORM, BUT IS YOUR MONEY AS SAFE AS YOU THINK?
t’s been nearly two years since PayPal split from its former owner eBay, and since then it’s been going from strength to strength. But what does its expansion mean for businesses and can its customers trust their money will be safe?
PAYPAL’S SPENDING SPREE Since the eBay split, PayPal Inc. has been busy. It quickly acquired Modest, which helps merchants create an online app for their store, the digital transfer company Xoom and the payment gateway Braintree, among others. It is also launching new services such as PayPal Working Capital, which advances money that is then repaid when the company sells services through PayPal. PayPal’s spin out and subsequent purchases show the platform is working hard to become the dominant force in a fast growing online payment marketplace.
In particular, it is focusing its efforts on businesses – and helping them process more payments online. This may well turn out to be beneficial, giving people and businesses more options and making it easier to sell online, but there can be problems, especially when it comes to the security of the consumer’s money. One customer found out just how difficult it could be. “I was working on a major assignment involving several different professionals, for an overseas client,” he says. “Payment was made monthly and they insisted on moving everything through PayPal. That was irritating enough. Not only did we have to wait a little longer, but we had to put up with PayPal’s fee being deducted from each pay packet.” Then one day the payments didn’t appear. The client had made the transaction, but PayPal decided it was suspicious and had frozen the account. Everyone’s
payments were stuck in limbo – hovering somewhere between accounts. A couple of weeks went by before the issue was finally resolved.
Photos: Ken Wolter/gilc/bloomua/123rf
It’s tempting to put this down to a one-off problem, but even a cursory dig suggests this is happening time and time again. There’s even a dedicated website called PayPalWarning.com – set up to bring together as many bad stories about PayPal as possible. One user found that a seller was actively using PayPal’s own policies as an opportunity for fraud. “I purchased some tailored shirts and the seller sent a few ill-fitting shirts then stopped communicating after PayPal’s 45 day refund had lapsed,” he says. “Good scam as it takes longer than 45 days for shirts. PayPal is offering me no support and even suggested that I use my credit card as a funding source as they have longer dispute and refund timelines than 90 days.” Fraud is a major problem for PayPal’s users. In 2012 sellers on eBay found they were unexpectedly exposed to a new type of con and that PayPal offered little in the way of protection. A buyer would pay through PayPal, but insist on picking up the item in person. However, it would later transpire that the payment had been made by someone hacking into a legitimate account. Sellers would not insist on buyers signing any paper because they assumed the transaction had already been completed. However, they then received a note informing them that the payment was on hold because the buyer had disputed the payment, complaining they had never received payment. Because they had not sent the item recorded delivery, they had no proof that the products had been delivered. Buyers found to their cost that PayPal offers no protection when this happens and that they are no more secure than if a buyer pays with a cheque which then bounces.
PAYMENT ERRORS Customers using their new service, PayPal Working Capital, have also encountered problems. In the US, customers complained that repayments had been taken out of their accounts without authorisation. PayPal looked into the issue and said the payments had been taken in error and would be repaid. So, PayPal is not immune to making mistakes, and
customers who use it are at risk of fraud. When that happens, customers have less protection than they assume and seldom receive a clear explanation about why a problem has occurred. PayPal is right to point out that it conducts thousands of transactions successfully every day. However, both buyers and sellers need to enter the exchange with their eyes open and to be aware of when they will, and will not, be protected by PayPal. It’s a problem the entire Fintech sector must address. This area is full of exciting start-ups offering a host of innovative services. These can, and do, make it easier to move money – especially overseas – but they can also offer a rich hunting ground for fraudsters and may not offer the level of protection users expect.
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SMART PHILANTHROPY FROM HOOKWORM TO BOOKWORM
I RESOLVED TO STOP ACCUMULATING AND BEGIN THE INFINITELY MORE SERIOUS AND DIFFICULT TASK OF WISE DISTRIBUTION”, SAID ANDREW CARNEGIE, SELF-MADE STEEL TYCOON AND ONE OF THE GREATEST PHILANTHROPISTS OF ALL TIME. OVER 125 YEARS LATER, PHILANTHROPISTS ARE STILL GRAPPLING WITH ONE QUESTION: HOW DO YOU MAKE A REAL, SUSTAINABLE DIFFERENCE? In some respects, today’s philanthropists are spoiled for choice. But too often they find it’s much harder to put their money to work for a good cause than it was to earn it in the first place. Effective, impactful philanthropy demands an intimate understanding of the situation.
But it takes time, expertise and resources to establish facts, select programmes and partners, and monitor and measure results. Just because something seems like a good idea, it doesn’t mean it is, and it’s easy to mistake short-term fixes for long-term, sustainable solutions. And often it is the less well-known, less ‘sexy’ ideas that will have the most impact. Let me explain what I mean, using one of our programmes here at the UBS Optimus Foundation as an example. If, say, you wanted to help lift children out of the cycle of poverty in developing countries, the obvious solution would be to give them access to a good education and probably a healthy, nutritious diet. There is nothing wrong with that; in fact, there are many
great programmes, including some here at the UBS Optimus Foundation, doing just that. However, they’re not enough by themselves. AND WHY NOT, YOU MIGHT ASK, WHEN THERE ARE NEARLY 70 MILLION SCHOOL-AGE CHILDREN NOT ABLE TO ATTEND SCHOOL AND NEARLY 40% OF CHILDREN WORLDWIDE WHO ARE POORLY NOURISHED? And I would answer that these programmes are addressing important issues that are symptoms but not actually tackling the root causes of those symptoms. LET’S TAKE A STEP BACK TO CONSIDER Have you ever considered that there may be other factors quietly preventing a child from being able to learn, or even absorb the nutrition from the food they eat? It’s easy to overlook, but these factors may reduce the impact of your investment if children are not able or equipped to learn. One such hidden challenge is a child being infected with a parasitic worm. Not such an appealing topic, I think you’ll agree, but stay with me. Today, around 400 million school-age children worldwide are infected with parasitic worms, with fewer than 15% having access to treatment and even less having access to education about how to prevent these infections and stay healthy. Children in developing countries can pick up infections through eating unwashed food grown in soil contam-
inated by worm eggs, by playing football or cards in contaminated dirt, by walking barefoot on soil containing larvae and by drinking or bathing in water containing parasitic agents. Put simply, they are at high risk for infection simply by behaving like all kids do. WHAT HAPPENS TO THESE CHILDREN? Their physical and mental growth suffers because worms lead to under-nutrition, which in turn affects their cognitive ability and intellectual development. The worms reduce the body’s ability to capture and retain nutrients. They reduce children’s appetites, so they eat less and become more malnourished as a result. Iron-deficiency anaemia is also an issue. And research has also shown that worms can worsen the effects of HIV, tuberculosis and malaria, accelerating disease progression and inhibiting the body’s ability to absorb life-saving drugs against these infections. Children who are chronically undernourished and anaemic are less able to explore the world around them and take advantage of learning opportunities. Worse, they may be too weak to attend school. The social and economic costs of worm infections are also high. Poor health, combined with low school grades, harms children’s life chances and impacts a country’s economic productivity. Indeed, studies of hookworm eradication from the American South suggest that, before public health campaigns began in the early twentieth century, hookworm was responsible for around 20% of the
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difference in incomes between northern and southern American states. While the economic costs of worm infections in developing countries are hard to quantify, they are likely to be large. So if you only support education programmes in a country affected by worm infections, your investment may not have the desired effect, simply because the children are too ill to learn. Knowing this, you may have decided that the best investment you could make in a child’s future is not building a school, or training teachers, but rather funding programmes that can reduce worm infections. It’s relatively quick and easy to implement; the costs are low at less than 50 cents a year per child, and the benefits can be immense. In fact, deworming programmes are considered a “best buy” by a World Bank Study. AND YET, THIS STILL IS NOT ENOUGH. AND WHY, YOU MIGHT ASK, BECOMING FRUSTRATED THAT I INSIST YOU THINK FURTHER ABOUT DISGUSTING PARASITIC WORMS. AND WHO REALLY WANTS TO THINK ABOUT THAT IF THEY DON’T HAVE TO DO SO? If you fund only a deworming programme but do not then fund access to clean water and good sanitation, as well as a system of ongoing health education, you
will ensure that many children and adults continue to get reinfected on a yearly basis and will continually need to take medication over their entire lives. But what if you could fund a programme that combines an intervention that immediately deals with the infection (like deworming tablets) along with engaged health education that gives communities and children the tools that they need to prevent reinfection (like building durable, acceptable latrines in their community, and educating them in tangible, relatable ways as to how infections can spread and be prevented)? I am immensely proud of the work that we do at the UBS Optimus Foundation. This is just one example of the kind of programme we fund, and it demonstrates that engaging in effective philanthropy demands an intimate understanding of the situation. And that’s where we come in. We carefully consider the social, economic and cultural nuances of a programme to ensure it will be welcomed and will address specific, known needs in ways that are both respectful and effective. We monitor, measure and communicate results regularly so clients have a clear sense of the impact their donation is having on the ground. And the advice and guidance we give to our programme partners provide them with the confidence to press ahead and transform their good ideas into great programmes.
Photos: courtesy of Last Mile Health; Daniel Mauszezahl; Gregorie Muhr; Grant Squibb; Hunan Institute of Parasitic Diseases
THIS IS JUST ONE EXAMPLE OF THE KIND OF PROGRAMME WE FUND, AND IT DEMONSTRATES THAT ENGAGING IN EFFECTIVE PHILANTHROPY DEMANDS AN INTIMATE UNDERSTANDING OF THE SITUATION
I started by referencing Andrew Carnegie, who is well known for his support for public libraries around the world. It may be a little presumptuous, but I’d like to think he would be pleased that there may soon be more bookworms than hookworms in schools in developing countries.
ABOUT ANN-MARIE SEVCSIK Ann-Marie Sevcsik is a Programme Director at the UBS Optimus Foundation in the field of health and emergency response. She brings over 20 years of experience in biomedical and health research, having spent the past 10 years engaged in research, development and access issues related to bringing relevant tools to improve the health and development of vulnerable populations worldwide. Prior to joining the UBS Optimus Foundation, Ann-Marie worked at the Drugs for Neglected Diseases initiative, which developed the first anti-malarial treatment by a public-private partnership that has now delivered more than 400 million treatments around the world. Educated at Harvard University, the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and the University of California, San Francisco, she has worked with a wide range of organisations – including the Nobel Prize-winning Médecins Sans Frontières, the World Health Organisation; multinational pharma-
ceuticals like GSK Pfizer, Sanofi-Aventis; biotechnology companies like Amgen and Chiron and patient advocacy organisations, with hands-on projects in more than 30 countries around the world.
ABOUT THE UBS OPTIMUS FOUNDATION UBS Optimus Foundation is an award-winning, expert grant-making foundation that helps UBS clients employ their wealth to drive positive, sustainable social change for children. It selects programmes that improve children’s health, education and protection, and that have the potential to be transformative, scalable and sustainable. And because UBS covers all the Foundation’s administrative costs it guarantees that 100% of all donations go to support program partners, including research and development activities that benefit children.
THE GOLDEN RULE OF GIVING, OR P.O.S P. identify the Problem you want to solve; O. understand the Obstacle to overcoming the problem; S. define the Solution to overcoming the obstacle.
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KALANICK CO-FOUNDER AND CEO OF UBER TECHNOLOGIES INC.
rom a middle class family in Los Angeles, Travis dropped out of UCLA’s Engineering School in 1998 in order to start a file sharing service for films and music – Scour. But Travis soon found himself subject to an astronomical entertainment industry compensation claim and was forced to declare the startup bankrupt. Only a few months later, he launched Red Swoosh, another file sharing network for software. Despite initial cash flow shortages and a long-winded investment acquisition process, Travis managed to sell the business to tech giant Akamai Technologies for $20 million. Travelling the world with his newfound fortune, Travis met startup entrepreneur and future Uber co-founder Garrett Camp, who shared his learning-by-doing attitude and never-ending thirst for innovative projects. The idea for Uber was allegedly conceived during a joint trip to Paris. Travis mused how great it would be to order a limousine with one click, and a business was born. The startup was founded in 2009 as an exclusive limousine service in San Francisco. This was followed by an ‘app for everyone’, allowing customers to book private drivers directly. Anyone with a car and a smartphone can become a taxi driver, with 20 percent of the fare going to Uber as commission. The taxi industry’s criticism of the counter-model has been well documented – and the company has not been without controversy surrounding regulation – but Uber is keen to end these stiff, monopoly-like business structures. Travis sees himself as a visionary, who is ridding cities of unneeded cars whilst freeing up time for other things.
Photos: courtesy of Uber Technologies Inc.; DLD conferences; Volvo Group; Anutr Yossundara/123rf
Outspoken tech entrepreneur Travis Kalanick created a billion dollar business out of a startup called Uber, based on the simple premise of connecting driver and passenger at the click of a button. In the space of seven years, he has managed to turn a two-car operation in San Francisco into a visionary digital business worth $69 billion, with more than 5 million rides booked every day. Hailed as the founding father of the ‘gig economy’, which has sparked the likes of Airbnb and TaskRabbit, Travis is thought to have created the fastest-growing startup in history with an initial capital investment of only $200,000.
Travis Kalanick speaking at DLD15 in Munich
Currently, Uber operates on six continents in over 70 countries and 400 cities and could test the IPO market in late 2017 or early 2018. The business model is extremely popular with investors. No business apart from Facebook has ever been traded as hotly as Uber. Currently, its value is estimated at $69 billion and it has invested greatly in worldwide growth. Travis’ secret: “You can’t
become a great entrepreneur if you are satisfied with having solved one problem. There are always greater challenges.” This might explain why Uber is currently experimenting with driverless cars, carpooling and helicopter services, food and package delivery services in some cities, as well as striving to become a worldwide platform for on-demand and connected mobility.
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THE AVANT GUARDIAN OF ARCHITECTURE
Velichor Residential Building, exterior rendering of penthouse suite
Photos: courtesy of Mark Foster Gage Architects
New York-based architect Mark Foster Gage is known for highconcept, freethinking designs that bring the beauty back to architecture. Protégé of Robert A.M. Stern and former studio assistant to Frank Gehry, Gage is a practising architect, Assistant Dean and tenured professor at Yale School of Architecture, TED conference speaker and author of numerous architectural essays and tomes. His projects range from the new Live Arts Building at Bard College, to an interactive virtual reality retail environment at the Coachella Music Festival, to an outfit for Lady Gaga.
hatever the scale—Gage is product design director of accessories for Nicola Formichetti’s Nicopanda fashion line, while at the same time developing a 102-storey futuristic-gothic skyscraper for West 57th Street in Manhattan—Gage seeks to push the boundaries in architectural design. “Everything we do is innovative and customised,” Gage says of his architectural practice, founded in 2014. “We typically turn down clients that know exactly what they want…Our strength is working with clients to not only meet their needs, but to do so in fresh, innovative ways—through producing not only unique things, but things that have never been done before. It’s a small market of people who want to go down this road and they tend to be very intelligent, curious and very interested in architecture and the arts.” In steering the course of the industry for future generations, Gage is invested in researching the use of physical interactivity, virtual reality, robotics, 3D printing, and spatial social media in architecture. It’s clear that, for Gage, architecture as a discipline has much more to offer society than simply functional, visually pleasing buildings. Not only will Gage publish a monograph on his design work next year, but two others—The Space of Social Equality and Aesthetic Activism—offer thoughtful insights into our relationships with our environments, our politics and one another.
CHRONOMASTER I Heritage 146
MANERO FLYBACK AUTOMATIC
ROSE GOLD 18 K