Fashion Writing

EDITOR’S NOTE

“Humor is my defence mechanism”

Iwasfourwhenmyparentstookmeformyfirst internationaltrip.Itwasnoneotherthanthecityof fashion- Paris! Idon’tremembermuchbutsince thenIhavenotstoppedtravelling Iwouldpickup souvenirsfromlocalgiftshops,talktothepeople there, learn their culture. I remember always observingtheirclothingandbeinginspiredfromit.It becamemyfavouritetimeoftheyear.WhatIloved themostaboutitwasexperimentingwithmyclothes andtryingtoblendinasoneofthelocals.And that, becamemyfavourtiepasstime!Slowly,Igrewto lovefashionandeverythingaboutit.

IrealisedIwasnotmadeforthescienceworldlike myparents,IbelongedsomewherenoonethoughtI wouldIbelongedinfashion

month,butfashion?,thatdidnotleavemysidesince 2008.

Myfouryearoldselfwouldbeproudofmerightnow knowingthatIwasthereatParisFashionWeekandI pursuedwhatIlove.

Contributingandhavingsomepartinthedesigner’sshow wasanhonour.Watchingthebackstagehustlefirsthand, experiencingtheworldoffashion,interactingwithnew people,receivingpositivefeedback,tookmetoahighI neverknewexisted!

BeingapartofGen-Z,Iknowhowdifficultitcanbeto getourattentiononcertainthings.Ourinterestsand choicesaretoowidearangetobeputontooneplatform. Butwetryourbesttoappealouraudience,nomatterthe generation

Incorporatingcultureinfashionismoredifficultthanone wouldthinkitis.Wealwayshavetomakesuretonot cross boundaries and enter the realm of cultural appropriation

Theinspirationforthisissuestemsfromculture,history andsociety.DivingdeepintothecultureofIndiaand historyoffashionandart,thegreatmindsleaptinto work-mode. Discussing topics such as androgynous fashion,femininemasculinity,culturalfashion,traditional textiles, purposes of clothing and how fashion passes downthroughgenerations,thisissuecoversitall.

Ineverhadahobbythatlastedformorethana

MytriptoParis andmyoutfit!

Equal Rights For

MEN?

DIGGINGINTO FEMININE MASCULINITY

“Genderisshapedbyrole,appearance,behavior,andculturalstandards”, accordingtoPhDandclothinghistorian,JoPaolettiClothesdonothavegenders orsexuality,wegiveittothemForinstance,floralpatterns,skirts,dressesand brightcolorsareknowntobe‘feminine’whereasneutralcolors,shirts,suitsare consideredtobe‘masculine’ Itwasnotuntilthe1920’sthat pant-suitswereuniversally acceptedaroundtheworld Thisopeneddoorstoa differentmindsetandawhole otherstyleforwomentoexplore Howeveryoucouldn’tsaythe sameformenswearTheirclothing wasstillrestrictedtoneutral colorsandsuitsIfthemen experimentedwith feminineclothingtheywere immediatelyassumedtobe“gay”, leavingverylittleto noroomforexperimentationin menswear.Theywereunable toexpressthemselves throughtheirappearance.

In frame: Harry Styles

All-over checked coat by JW Anderson

Photographed by Tyler Mitchell

In frame: Harry Styles Outfit by Gucci Photographer: Tyler Mitchell

The‘60sand‘70splayeda makingofandrogynousfa timewhenYvesSaintLau “LeSmoking”suit,acontr offemininitythathasrevo offashion Anupsurgeof beganinmenaftertheroll performanceinHydePark MickJaggerworea“man' eventbyBritishdesignerM this,fansallovertheworld androgynousfashion

The‘60sand‘70splayedacrucial roleinthemakingofandrogynous fashionThiswasthetimewhenYvesSaint Laurentdesignedthe“LeSmoking”suit,a controversialstatementoffemininitythathas revolutionizedtheideaoffashionAnupsurgeof feminineclothingbeganinmenaftertherolling stone’sperformanceinHydePark,Londonin 1969MickJaggerworea“man'sdress”,forthat eventbyBritishdesignerMichaelFishAfterthis, fansallovertheworldstartedadaptingto androgynousfashion

Undertheinfluenceofpopcultureand cinema,feminineclothingformenswear enteredthemainstreamfashionindustry in the 1970’s Even though feminine masculine fashion was prevailing and makingitswaythroughtherestofthe world,usIndiansweren’tasopentothe idea Westartedacceptingandrogynous clothing after its entry in bollywood Whenwelookatoldbollywoodmovies, weseeAmitabhBachchan,RishiKapoor wearingbell-bottompantswithcolorful shirts,somethingthatwasn’tverypopular atthattime Itgainedpopularityafter theirmovies,everyonestartedwearing bell-bottompantsandoptedforcolor instead of the basic neutrals. Slowly androgynousclothingpaveditspathin India.

When we look at the history of clothing,wewillseealotofcultures havingunisexclothinglikeMaharani’s wearingpantsandkurtasforbattles,and Maharajas wearing embroidered anarkali’sforcourt Thesearepeoplea lotofIndian’shavelookeduptoandyet ourmindswerenotreadyformenin feminine looks Our culture has the great King Akbar in beautifully embroideredandcolorfulanarkalisbutif weseeamanwearingfloralpatternson suitsorindailywear,weimmediately questiontheirgender Akbarwasan Islamicruler,andtheyareknownto applykajalundertheireyes,butifwesee anon-Islamicwithkajal,welabelthem as“girly”.Butisthereanysuchthingas girly?

Mick Jagger in Michael Fish Man's Dress

Le Smoking Suit by Yves Saint Laurent

Mick Jagger in Michael Fish Man's Dress

Men's fashion in the 70's

Amitabh Bachchan

Rishi Kapoor

Akbar

Inmyopinion,thereisnothingwrongwithamanembracinghis likesanddislikesanddressingupaccordinglyandno,thatisnot girlyNoonecomplainsaboutmalesingers,actors,influencers dressingupinfeminineclothing,butifanormalmandoesthe same,theyareboundtogetstaredat,judged,andlabeledThe famousRanveerSinghisneverseeninanythingbutloudcolors, patterns,stylishclothesbutnoonewouldjudgehim,infactwe lookuptohimasa“fashionicon”WhenAnuvJainworeaskirt forhisarticleinGQmagazine,weallpraisedhim,butifaboyin collegedressesupintanktopsandsheercroptops,wequestion theirsexuality.

Sherwanishavealwayshadembroideries,brightcolors,soft materials,sequins,sheerpatternsandwe acceptthatbecauseitis traditional,butifthesameisseeninwesternwear,weimmediately objecttoit.

Bydoingso,wewon’tonlybegivingmenachanceto experimentwithclothingandexpressthemselvesbutwe alsobeopeningdoorsforpeoplewhoidentifyasnonbinary,asexualandtransgenders.Wewillbeabletogive aspacetobehowevertheylikewithoutthefearofbeing judgedorridiculed.Wedefinitelywouldbemakingthe worldabetterplace.

It'snotalwaysthesocietythatjudgesthemenandquestions whotheyare,sometimesit'sourclosestrelativesandfamily members,likewivesorgirlfriends.Oninterviewingafew people,Ifoundthatthehusbandsare“notallowed”towear certainprintsandmaterialsbecausetheladyofthehousefinds itfeminine.Thissometimesleadstothemanquestioninghis ownidentityandsexuality.Theysaidtheyfeellessmasculine whentheirwomandoesnotallowthemtowearthetypeof clothesthatflaunttheirbody.Ithinkit’stimethatwe,asa society,shouldacceptfemininemasculinityasawholeandnot justinfashion.

RanveerSingh

RanveerSingh

Anuv Jain

SHEER FEVER

There’s a thin line between modesty and attraction. Takes a genius to know the difference, which is exactly what these brands proved! Let’s explore the realms of different purposes of clothing.

ALAÏA

1.MESHPOUCH, PROENZA SCHOULER, ₹ 1,09,100.2.SHOWMULESIN4GMESH, GIVENCHY, ₹ 96,000.3.RIBBELT DRESS, ALAIA, ₹ 2,41,000APPROX.4.ANGELICNECKLACE, SWAROVSKI, ₹ 21,000.5.DWIGHTDRESSINPINK, SANDY LIANG, ₹ 70,880APPROX.6.GGMARMONTKEYEARRINGS, GUCCI, ₹ 26,700APPROX.

A coat or a blazer is the most elegant addition to an outfit to make it stand out and separate it from turning into formal wear or casual attire!

COAT CRAZE

LEGACY OF STYLE

-Passing down fashion through generations-

“Anyonemayhavediamonds:anheirloomis anornamentofquitea differentkind”-ElizabethAston

In the blend of family traditions, fashion evolvesovergenerations,withsomeremaining constants We like to call them heirlooms Althoughbeingpassedovergenerations,they never quite lose their value They always remainpreciousTheynevergetold,theyjust getricher

Seeing the memories captured by my grandparents,itwasapleasureGoingthrough theirlifethrougholdalbumsandlookingat theirfashion,justshowedhowmuchithas evolvedovertheyears.Theirfashionchoices reflectedalotaboutthesocietyandsocietal normsofthosedays.Thefashionchoicesthey madeweresodifferentthantheoneswemake today.Trendsweredifferent,colouroptions werefewer,androgynywasnotaconcept,and clothingoptionsformenwerelimitedtopants andshirts.Traditionalclothingdidnothave variationsofnecklines,sleevelengths,back designs,andblousesdidnotequalbralettes. Kurtishadtraditionalpatternswithdupattasto gowithall.Theculturalinfluencethenwas muchmorethanwhatitisnow.Theybelieved inthingswethinkarepointless.

SometraditionsIthoughtwerenewandjuststartedtoformhadbeengoingonbeforeIwasborn!Itisagiventhatevery year,myextendedfamilyonthematernalsideandIcelebrate Diwali, Bhai Dooj and Rakshabandhan, together.Itisalong livedtraditionandthefuncannotbeputintowords!On Dussera,myextendedpaternalfamilyandIhaveafeastcalled “Nived”wherewefirstofferthefoodtotheGodandthenhaveitforourselves.

Aninterviewwithmygrandmotherandmymother-RashmiRameshShahandHetalKumarDoshi:

Priyanshi Doshi:Whatweresocialtaboosyoufacedinyourtimewithregardstofashion?

Rashmi Shah:Wewomenwerenotallowedtowearcertainclothinglikejeans,skirts,shorts,suitsandclothesingeneral thatshowedalotofskin.Traditionaloutfitslikesalwarkameez,kurtiswerealwayspreferred.Forpartieswewereallowed towearfrocks.

Hetal Doshi:Wehadsimilartaboos,buttimeshadchangedbythenandwewereallowedtowearjeansanddresses. Shortswerestilllookeddownupon,butalotofmyfriendsdidwearthem.Myfavouritewasalwaysa salwar kameez.

PD:Didyouevergetastrongurgetobreakthosesocietaltaboos?

RS:Iwasneverarebelliouskid.Goingagainstwhatmyparentsinstructedfeltlikeadisrespecttothem.

HD:Forme,whatmymothersaidwasthefinalthing,therewerenoargumentsorcounterquestionsonthem.

PD:Whatdidyouwearforyourwedding?Wassomethingpasseddowntoyoubyyourmother?

RS:FormyweddingIworea panetar sareeanda gharcholu.Thepanetarsareewascottonandthegharcholuwassilk.The gharcholuwaspasseddowntomebymymother-in-lawSheworeitforherwedding

Passeddownjewellery

Hetal(mom)inthegharcholuand banglesatherwedding.

HD:Itooworea panetar sareeand gharcholu whichwaspasseddowntomebymymother-inlawwhoworeitforherweddingBanglesanda jewellerysetwerealsogiventomebyherformy weddingTheytoo,areanheirloom

PD:Isthereanythingyouwouldliketosayto thefuturegenerationsofyourfamily?

RS:Ipersonallyfeelthatthecurrentgeneration has lost touch with their cultural roots Sometimesdressingupintraditionalclothingis good,youdon'talwayshavetobewearingshorts and skirts I would like my family's future generationstowearmoretraditionalclothingand beintouchwithourculture

HD:Iagreewithhercompletely Iwouldalso liketoseethefuturegenerationwearmoreof badhani and patolu and less of pastels on traditionalclothing

In India, brides from various regions and communitiesadorndifferentstylesofsarison theirweddingday.Amongthese,the Gharchola standsoutasatraditionalandauspiciousbridal attirespecificallyhailingfromGujarat.

The Gharchola sareegoesbeyondbeingamere textile;itrepresentsaheartfeltexpressionoflove andblessingsfromthegroom'sfamilytothe bride.Translatingto"homeapparel"or"outfit for home," the term Gharchola signifies the bride'sacceptanceandwarmwelcomeintoher new household. Typically presented by the mother-in-law,theGharcholaiswornbythe brideaseitheraheadorshoulderdrape,known asOdhaniorChunari.

It’snotalwaysthatwerealisehowoutoftouch wearewithourcultureandtraditions.Talkingto myfamilymademelearnthingsaboutfashionin theirtimeandhowtheyseethetextilesandnot justtextilesbutwithanadditionalmeaningtoit Thismademerealisehowimportantknowing andwearingmycultureisThereisnopointin having family heirlooms if you don’t know wheretheycomefrom Fashionhasbeenpassed overgenerationsforyearsnowEventhoughwe don’trealiseit,wefollowcertaintraditionsour parentsandgrandparentsfollowed Sometimes wefeeltheirthoughtsonourclothinghabitsare “irrelevant”and“backward”,butwhenyoulisten totheirexplanation,weunderstandthatallthey reallywantisforustobeintouchwithour cultureandnotgetcarriedaway

BanglesandjewelleryHetal(mom) woreatherwedding.

TREASURY OF GUJARAT

BeingaGujarati,Icanassureyou,thisstatement byourPrimeMinisterNarendraModi,istruetoits core. NeveroncehaveIheardaGujaratisaythey don’t love where they come from. There is somethingaboutthisstatethatbringsasmiletomy faceeverytimeItalkaboutit,visititorthinkofit Partofthereasonistherichtextileandhandicraft treasurythisstatehastooffer Intheworldoftraditionalcrafts,dyeingstandsasan art passed down through generations Historical practicesinvolvedextractingcolorsfromtreesand flowers for cloth dyeing Ahmedabad's Sarkhei suburb,onceahubforindigomanufacturingand exporting, played a pivotal role Among the renownedtextilevarietiesisBandhani,atie-and-dye technique adorning popular women's wear This intricateprocessentailstyingknotsondelicatewhite fabric, subsequently immersed in vibrant hues Layeringdeepershadesoverprioronescreatesthe captivatingcoloredbackgroundofthecloth This age-oldartistrynotonlyyieldsstunninggarments butalsopreservestherichheritageofGujarat'stextile traditions. In Gujarat, the Bandhani sari holds profoundsignificance.Aredbandhaniadornedwith yellow stripes symbolizes pregnancy or recent childbirth, its aesthetic appeal intertwined with eternal fertility beliefs. During weddings, families exchangebandhanisaris,fosteringmutualwelcome. Gifted by in-laws, this intricate sari becomes a cherished possession for Indian brides, and the auspiciousfirstnightofmarriageoftenunfoldsovera bedsheetadornedwithbandhaniprints,symbolizing blessingsforthecouple'snewlifetogether. ThePatolasilkofPatanstandsasadistinctivetextile inGujarat.Thisuniquewomen'swearcaptivates withitsvibrantgeometricalpatterns.Unlikeblockprinted garments, Patola achieves symmetrical designsonbothsidesthroughacomplextie-andweavemethod,

intricately based on geometric principles. Handwovenwithsilkyarn,theseexquisitesareesare meticulously crafted by skilled artisans in Patan, resultinginfinelydetailed,pricey,creations

“Any Gujarati, in any corner of the world, if they talk of Gujarat it is with the head held high. This is what Gujarat has achieved.”

Patola,reveredbyBrahmins,Jains,VohraMuslims, andKutchiBhatias,holdsdeepauspiciousmeaning. Wornduringweddings,itsymbolizesprosperity, religious devotion, and tradition, becoming a prestigiousbridalgiftexchangedforgoodfortune. Passed through generations, Patola becomes an heirloom,wornduringpregnancyceremoniesfor blessings.

In Tenganan, Bali, its fragments are considered magical,utilizedinhealingritualsalongsidethelocal Geringsingtextile.

Woodcarving,anancientartforminGujarat,has achievedremarkabletechnicalprowess.Exemplary woodcarvingsgracetemplesandhomesacrossthe state, showcasing life-like animal figures and everydayitemsliketeapots,tablelamps,stools,and children'stoys.MahuvaandIdararerenownedfor theirlacquertoys,whileSankhedainBarodadistrict iscelebratedforitslacquerworkoncountrywood, resultingindarkershades InSaurashtra,women craftidols,toys,ash-trays,toilet-boxes,lamp-stands, andflower-potsfromragpulp,bananastumps,and bamboo Additionally,theregionproducesartistic clayjars,water-pots,andvariousutilityitems

COFFEE RUNS and COUTURE

WhenIwastoldIhadthechancetobeaninternattheParisFashion Week,Ithoughtsomeonewastryingtopullmyleg.ButlittledidI know,itwasactuallyhappening.Afewmonthslater,wetouchdownedatPairs.Itwasahardpilltoswallow!

MyjourneybeganwithPabePabe,abrandthatlivesuptoitsplayful name.TheirdesignswereunlikeanythingI'dseenbefore-aunique blend of textures and silhouettes, incorporating stunning metal platingThemodelsthemselvesaddedanotherlayerofmagictothier creations Butwhattrulystruckmewasthekindnessoftheentire t a N t t b F d m s T

TheUnissen Shot by Priyanshi Doshi

Jitrois Shot by Priyanshi Doshi

BeingadresserforthebrandVivienneTamwasa masterclassinbackstagefashionweekhustle.We wereassignedasinglemodelwithtwolooks. Witnessing the chaotic yet creative energy firsthand was an eye-opener. But amidst the controlledchaos,therewaskindness.Themodels, theproductionteam,wereincrediblysweet.Itwas aheartwarmingreminderthatevenintheheartof thefashionchaos,humanconnectionthrives.

Paris itself wasn't just a backdrop; it was an integralpartoftheexperience.Thestreetswerea living fashion show, teeming with people in designer clothes, each one an embodiment of impeccablestyleandfearlessself-expression.The colourcombinationswereafeastfortheeyes,and thesheerconfidenceradiatingfromeveryonewas infectious.Itmadechannelmyinnerfashionista without the fear of judgement and eyes of disapproval It was a city that embraced individuality,aplacewhereyoucouldbewhoever youwantedtobe

Paris Fashion Week was more than just an internship;itwasanexperienceofalifetime It wasbeautiful,serene,brimmingwithlovefor fashion,andpulsatingwiththeenergyofcreation Itwasasightforsoreeyesandacrashcoursein theinnerworkingsofthefashionworldItwasa journeythatleftmenotonlywithmemories,but alsowithanewfoundappreciationfortheartistry, thepassion,andthesheerheartthatgoesinto everystitch,everystrut,andeveryunforgettable momentontherunway

Vivienne Tam Shot by Priyanshi Doshi

AUTUMN / WINTER 2024

Jean Claude Jitrois, the mind behind the famous Jitrois brand, brings another exciting collection to the fashion world. Given his background in psychology, Jean Claude Jitrois prioritizes the needs of his customers above all, a commitment that is evident in every pieceHe creates clothes that feel like a second skin, making people look and feel great His latest work continues to push the boundaries of what fashion can be, using unique materials and designs to stand out This season, Jitrois offers something special with its new collection The collection includes distinctive items such as leather jeans designed to mimic the appearance of denim, that enhance in appearance with each wash, alongside lustrous, elastic fabrics, and ethically sourced lamb skin leather. It also presents designs that mimic crocodile skin Each item is made to empower and add a touch of elegance to anyone who wears them Jitrois is serious about making fashion better for the planet Everything in this collection is made in France, which helps ensure that the clothes are made responsibly and ethicallyJitrois utilizes environmentally friendly materials in their creationsmaking sure that luxury fashion can be both beautiful and kind to our world With this collection, Jitrois invites everyone to explore fashion that’s not only about looking good but also about doing good. It's a step forward in creating clothes that matter to people and the planet

By- Priyanshi Doshi, Ananya Pillai, Kareena Dusseja

STREET FASHION PARIS

Shot by Priyanshi Doshi

THANKYOU