AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE
SIGHTS & SOUNDS ART & FASHION DANCING & DINING COMPLETE LISTINGS MAR & APR 2014
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FLOWER POWER
THE OPENING OF THE KEUKENHOF, THE WORLD’S LARGEST FLOWER SHOW, IS TESTIMONY TO HOLLAND’S BLOOMING FLOWER CULTURE.
Vol 2 NO 2 €2.95
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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC
Neighbourhood watch
THE NINE STREETS JOEY DE BOER, 25 tattoo artist
‘The Nine Streets is what I imagine a nice shopping district should be like. Everything you can imagine is here, and there’s always something going on, something to do.’
neighbourhood watch
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The quaint and quirky streets that straddle Amsterdam’s grandest canals form the city’s most photogenic micro-neighbourhood, full to bursting with vintage shopping, speciality stores and cosy cafés. text Karin Engelbrecht photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé
Bijoux borough
T
he bustling, chain-store smattered Kalverstraat may be the closest thing Amsterdam has to London’s Oxford Street, but those in the know head for the Nine Streets to slate their shopping needs. These nine cobbled side streets that connect the main canals between Leidsegracht and Raadhuisstraat are awash with history and contain some of the most unique shops in the city. Located just a stone’s throw from Dam square, the Nine Streets area was constructed in the first half of the 17th century, when the Heren-, Keizers- and Prinsengracht canals were dug out around the Medieval town centre to cope with Amsterdam’s burgeoning population. Today, some 400 years later, the lively neighbourhood is home to a variety of restaurants, cafés, galleries and over 200 retailers, including more than its share of independent shops. Known to locals as De Negen Straatjes or ‘The Nine Streets’, this designation is relatively recent, only having been coined in the mid-Nineties.Djoeke Wessing, owner of the eponymous art deco shop (Huidenstraat 20; djoekewessing.nl) , was the driving force behind uniting the streets into a desirable district with a distinct identity. Looking to the area’s near neighbour, the travel-guide favour-
ite Jordaan, Wessing organised the first meeting of what was to become the area’s traders’ association in 1996. First, she had to convince a number of reticent shopkeepers, who were afraid of hassles and red tape. Next, she had to persuade the municipality to include the new name on the street signs. ‘Finally, we were an official area and literally on the map,’ she explains. So defined has the bijoux borough become, it even has its own website: www.de9straatjes.nl. TRADING LEGACY A lot may have changed since the area was constructed, but many street names still bear witness to the artisans who were active here in past centuries. Indeed, Wolven-, Beren-, Huiden- and Reestraat (or ‘Wolves’, ‘Bears’, ‘Hides’ and ‘Roe Deer’ Street) are a remnant of the trade in animal hides for the leather industry, while Runstraat is named for the oak bark used for tanning. You’ll still find plenty of leather in The Nine Streets today, from hip accessories at Liebeskind (Huidenstraat 11; http://lieb eskind-amsterdam.nl) to classic gloves at Roeckl (Berenstraat 29; www.roeckl.com) , and from exclusive Italian leather shoes and bags at Dominio (Runstraat 15; www.dominio.nl) to Robin &
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neighbourhood watch
PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC
These nine cobbled streets are awash with history and contain some of the most unique shops in the city. L’ÉTOILE DE SAINT HONORÉ With the tag line ‘luxury vintage’, this charming shop (opened July 2013) is a treasure trove of upscale vintage accessories from Chanel, Hermès, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. More akin to a high-end boutique than a dusty second-hand store, the staff are knowledgeable – and passionate about their stock. Each über-desirable bag comes with a certificate of authenticity, and prices reflect that: a pristine LV monogram clutch will set you back in the region of €175. The web shop delivers worldwide and layaway options are available.
Oude Spiegelstraat 1 http://etoile-luxuryvintage.com
MENDO This award-winning shop calls itself a ‘candy store for book aficionados’, and they won’t hear any argument from us. The interior, designed by Amsterdam ‘It’ architects Concrete, features walls constructed not of bricks, but of thousands of black books, forming the perfect backdrop for the latest glossy tomes on architecture, fashion, food, design, photography and travel.
Berenstraat 11 http://mendo.nl
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Rik Leermakers (Runstraat 30) , the leather fetishist’s fantasy closet. BEST BOUTIQUES Cutting-edge couture at Van Ravenstein (Keizersgracht 359; www.van-ravenstein.nl) fluffs up the area’s fashion credentials, while fashion junkies can get their fix at Karl Lagerfeld (Hartenstraat 16; www.karl.com) and find various buzzy brands and up-and-coming designers at LouLou on the 15th-century Wijde Heisteeg 9 (http://louloufashion.com) . Looking for local fashion? Head to MOSCOW (Runstraat 8; www.moscowamsterdam. nl) , Scotch & Soda (Huidenstraat 5; www. scotch-soda.com) and SuperTrash (Huidenstraat 32; www.supertrash.com) . Local lingerie can be found at Marlies Dekkers (Berenstraat 18; www.marliesdekkers.com) and Amsterdam-designed leather bags, shoes or accessories at Hester van Eeghen (Hartenstraat 1 & 37; www.hestervan eeghen.com) and Smaak Amsterdam (Berenstraat 39; www. smaakamsterdam.com) . VINTAGE VALHALLA From basic second-hand goods to vintage designer labels, The Nine Streets are a vintage lover’s paradise. Bij Ons Vintage (Reestraat 13; www.bijons-vintage.nl) , with fashion, furniture and other vintage items, is one of the newest additions. A multitude of musty shops offers that crowded charm that seems to appeal to second-hand clothing shoppers. Mad Men aficionados will adore the authentic mid-century home accessories at Fifties-Sixties (Reestraat 5; www.fifties-sixties.nl) . At Waxwell Records (Gasthuismolensteeg 6; www.waxwell.com) vinyl freaks will find everything from old-school Rap 12-inches to rare jazz funk 45s, and from Brazilian LPs to Dutch breaks.
THEO VAN ADRICHEM, 55
cultural organisation advisor ‘I’ve lived here for 30 years and I love it, but I’m a little bit afraid of the development. It’s extremely busy on weekends and the character of the shops is changing. I hope it doesn’t lose its little village soul. ‘
LIANNE & NADINE DE BIE, 20 AND 14 students
‘We love this neighbourhood with its many small shops, so unlike other areas that have too many chain stores and get too busy.‘
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KAASKAMER
FAB. BY FABIENNE
In a city of exceptional cheese shops, Kaaskamer (or ‘cheese room’) remains one of the finest. But with hundreds of varieties of cheese from all over the world it can be hard to choose. We recommend Olde Remeker, a mature organic farmhouse cheese, and Le Petit Doruvael, a gooey and aromatic washed-rind cheese, which sounds French but is, in fact, deliciously Dutch.
This local leatherwear brand offers covetable handbags, shoes and accessories that combine form and function, with a design aesthetic that is practical yet always feminine. From python leather iPhone cases to the brand’s best-selling baby bags, each piece comes with a little leather heart, which seems fitting considering the shop’s location on ‘heart street’.
Runstraat 7 www.kaaskamer.nl
Hartenstraat 7 http://fabbyfabienne.com
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neighbourhood watch
PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC
From basic second-hand goods to vintage designer labels, The Nine Streets are a vintage lover’s paradise. AMSTERDAM WATCH COMPANY For watches with serious style (and for serious money), look no further. Here you’ll find vintage Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Patek Philippe and Chopard timepieces as well as a selection of new watches. The team of expert watch makers can also evaluate or restore a (broken) family heirloom.
CULTURAL ENLIGHTENMENT
Reestraat 3 www.awco.nl
360 VOLT Design devotees take note. If you’ve ever admired the industrial lamps in Amsterdam’s many design-led local restaurants or shops, 360 Volt is a must-visit destination. Founded by a duo of designers, the Prinsengracht shop boasts the Netherlands’ largest collection of restored vintage industrial lighting from around the world, many items dating from the early 20th century.
Prinsengracht 397 https://360volt.com
POMPADOUR PATISSERIE Stop by for coffee with freshly baked financiers for a break from shopping and admire the lavish 18th-century interior of this famous chocolatier, patisserie and tearoom. Or take some of the city’s prettiest pastries and most delicious bonbons (made with luxury French Valrhona chocolate) to go if the prices here are a bit too rich for your palate. Huidenstraat 12 www.pompadouramsterdam.nl
Since 1788, Felix Meritis (or ‘happy through merit’) has stood for the values of its founders, 40 Amsterdam citizens who set up a society to promote the arts and sciences. This neoclassical monument of the Enlightenment, one of the most magnificent buildings on the Keizersgracht, today houses the European Centre for Arts, Culture and Science, which continues the society’s proud tradition with political and religious debates, lectures and more. Pop in to experience one of the city’s best-kept secrets: the oldest existing observatory in the Netherlands, which offers some of the best views of the canal district (open from April to October). Other attractions in the area include the Biblical Museum (Herengracht 366-370) and the super-niche Museum of Eyeglasses (Gasthuismolensteeg 7) .
Keizersgracht 324 www.felix.meritis.nl
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CLOSING
ON THE WAY
OUT
We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.
on the way out
JULIA PADBERG, 27 banker, flying to Myanmar
‘Utrechtsestraat is my favourite shopping street, with trendy, independent shops and lots of really nice cafés.’
text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé
SAMI BARNAWI, 25 from Saudi Arabia
‘Winkel in the Haarlemmerbuurt has the best apple pie I have ever tasted.’
ELAISE HILDENBERG, 30 works at Blokker, going to see her boyfriend off ‘I love the Amsterdam Bos. It’s a bit of forest in the city and it’s a haven of peace and quiet.’
CARINE BLAQUIERE, 26 & ADRIAN CONSTANTINESCU, 29
horse dressage professionals from Montreal ‘It’s very interesting to see the Anne Frank House after reading the book. It helps transpose it into reality.’
RUUD OUDMAN, 39 investor, going to Alicante ‘The new Rijksmuseum is a must-see.’
editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic copy editor Megan Roberts staff photographer Marie-Charlotte Pezé cover image detail from ’Tulp en een papaver’, attributed to Willem van Leen, 1763-1825 cover design Lizzy Bekker contributors Maria Cavali, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Brandon Hartley, Elisah Jacobs, Qamar van Leeuwen, Toby Main, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron & Dave Nice), Christiaan de Wit