Ins & Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2012

Credits

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago 2012 The Exclusively Recommended In-Room Guide of The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants & Tourism Association and the Tobago Hotel and Tourism Association.

The Ins and Outs is widely distributed locally to visitors through hotel rooms, villas, guesthouses and restaurants. It is delivered to subscribers of a leading newspaper. It also reaches residents through select merchants, conferences, seminars and business organisations. T&T’s overseas diplomatic missions and World Travel Market form part of the international distribution.

PROJECT CO-ORDINATORS Patricia Lewis Marie Gurley ADVERTISING SALES Patricia Lewis Marie Gurley Betti Gillezeau Zachary Tardieu EDITOR Desirée Seebaran LAYOUT Desktop Designs & Letters Ltd. Patricia Lewis Sally Miller DESIGN AND WATERCOLOURS Eightzeronine Design PRODUCTION Jessica Medina PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS Candace Lennard Nichele West-Broome PHOTOGRAPHERS Christopher Anderson Edison Boodoosingh Stephen Broadbridge Ronald Daniel Martin Farinha Laura Ferreira Paul Hadden Abigail Hadeed Christian Hadeed Denzil James Inken Janning Sylvia Krueger (Oceans Discovery) Patricia Lewis Maria Nunes Nicholas Reid Kerron Riley Peter Sheppard Martin Superville Keown Thomas WRITERS Luke Benai Angelique Borde Peter Ray Blood Designers United Stores Darren Farfan Danielle Boodoo-Fortuné Oprah Francis Dawn Glaisher Paul Hadden Rick Haupt (Oceans Discovery) Greta M. Joachim Nasser Khan Zoe Knaggs Christine Mahon Ruth Osman Desirée Seebaran Andy Whitwell Sheldon Waithe

Trinidad Cover Artist: Rebecca Foster Rebecca Foster created her first painting when she was four years old.

This large, abstract oil painting hangs in her studio as a testament to her love of fine art. She made her debut in 2008 with a solo exhibition at More Vino, Trinidad. Then in 2010 she bid farewell to Bahrain, her home for one year, with a sold-out one night show. In 2011, an experiment with line, form and colour bloomed into a vibrant Trinidad Carnival series. This series has helped define Rebecca’s artistic style and has revamped her interest in watercolour.

Tel: (868) 777-3977 E-mail: bexfoster@mac.com www.facebook.com/rebeccafoster.art www.bexfoster.com

2

Tobago Cover Artist: Dillon A Richards Dillon Richards is a self-taught artist who has been painting for over 12 years. He was born in Trinidad, but currently resides in Tobago. When it comes to art, he believes that a bit of an artist’s spirit is captured in everything they do. Dillon is versatile when it comes to mediums and materials. He has experience with oils and water colour, but mainly uses acrylic paint on canvas. His compositions consist of landscapes, seascapes, murals, birds and other wildlife, and aspects of T&T’s life and culture. His works are created and can be viewed at the Tamarind Villa Art Studio/Gallery in Lambeau, Tobago.

Tel: (868) 330-0418 E-mail: mrdillonrichards@gmail.com www.originaldillon.com

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

PUBLISHED BY Caribbean Tourism Publications Ltd. #9 Humphrey Street The Film Centre, St. James Trinidad and Tobago Tel: (868) 622-0738/9 Fax: (868) 622-0426 E-mail: info@insandoutstt.com Web site: www.insandoutstt.com

While every care has been taken in the compilation of information contained in this guide, such information is subject to change without notice. The publishers accept no responsibility for such changes.

Copyright © 2012 Caribbean Tourism Publications.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher.

All rights reserved. Printed in Canada.

Contents

Trinidad 6

The Trinidad Experience

12

Calendar of Events

28

28 Festivals 38 Shopping 50 Art and Craft 58 Touring

80 36

64 Beaches 70 Sights 76 Sports

94 Health and Beauty

Features

98 Accommodation

11

112 Special Events

24 Around the Savannah

63 Patois

116 Entertainment

27 Destra Garcia

68 Saving Lives

120 Restaurants

36 Still Fashion Forward

74 Santa Estella Estate

142 Fast Facts

49 Island Wine & Dine

80 Cricket Heritage Museum

143 Map of Port of Spain

56 LeRoy Clarke

87 Earl Lovelace

198 Hotels and Guest Houses

57

141 National Culinary Team

84 Business

4

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

T&T Celebrating 50 yrs

Laura Ferreira

62 A Trip to San Fernando

Contents

Tobago

179

12 Calendar of Events 146 The Tobago Experience 150 Diving 154 Beaches 158 Touring & Sights 162 Festivals

150

153

161 Shopping 170 Property

Features

174 Entertainment 180 Accommodation

153 The Carib Beer Great Race

192 Restaurants

157 Festival of the Wind

142 Fast Facts

161 ANR Robinson

200 Hotels and Guest Houses

169 Miah Francis 179 Tobago Fashion Weekend 191 Our Chocolate Passion

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

5

The Trinidad Experience

by Nasser Khan

‘Trinis’, as Trinidad and Tobago nationals have come to be called, are among the world’s most inviting people.

We’ve been pegged as having one of the world’s top 10 sexiest accents, according to a 2011 CNN report.

But labeling us as a fun and sun-loving nation only scratches the surface of who we are and what we have to offer visitors to our shores.

The famous British explorer Sir Walter Raleigh came to these shores many moons ago seeking what he thought was El Dorado, the city of gold. He wasn’t far off because we consider ourselves ‘golden’ in the many achievements our citizens have attained over the years: we shine in athletics, with our Olympic medalists like Hasely Crawford, Ato Bolden, Richard Thompson and Marc Burns. Dr. Joseph Lennox Pawan, a Trini bacteriologist, was the first to discover that infected bats were capable of transmitting rabies to humans; this led to the development of a life-saving vaccine. Nobel laureate, poet and playwright Derek Walcott called Trinidad home for many years, and our 1998 Miss Universe Wendy Fitzwilliam continues to be a global ambassador. Blessed with an abundance of natural resources, it is no wonder our twin islands were two of the most fought over colonial territories in history. Our deep water harbour now has the capacity to welcome cruise ships, and the tourism sector is being given priority to supplement our industrial base which is hinged to our oil and natural gas resources.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

7

The Trinidad Experience What else makes Trinidad so special? Here are just some of the sights and sounds of the Trinidad experience: Carnival. Many countries in the world boast of Carnival celebrations, but none quite as stunning as Trinidad’s national festival, which is considered the mother of West Indian-style carnivals celebrated around the world. The festival showcases some of the nation’s most distinctive art forms: calypso, soca, steelband and limbo, plus a two-day pre-Ash Wednesday parade of costumed bands in towns across the island which starts with J’Ouvert, a daybreak celebration.

The steelpan is Trinidad and Tobago’s national instrument, invented right here in Trinidad and is our gift to the world. It is the only musical instrument to be invented in the 20th century, and is made by tuning the bottoms of steel oil drums. Pan originally came from the creative genius of oppressed classes, and now is a unifying symbol of our national inventiveness. During the Carnival season, music lovers crowd the “yards” of their favourite bands as they practise in preparation for Panorama, the annual competition for steel pan bands.

Outside of the Carnival season, music lovers can look forward to the Laventille Steelband Festival, a street parade, and Pan Yard Sensations, a series of steelpan concerts hosted by the Tourism Development Company Limited.

Our delicious local delicacies are a must: try yummy goodies like bake and shark, callaloo, doubles, pastelle, ponche a crème, ginger beer, pelau, roti, pholourie, buljol, souse, sno-cone, sorrel, black cake and the list goes on. Our International Culinary festival in October gives visitors a great opportunity to taste as many of our local foods as they can, all in one convenient place.

Given our fertile soils, we also have an abundance of tropical fruits and veggies.

Take a trip ‘down the islands’ off the north-west coast of Trinidad, and visit Gasparee Caves on the island of Gaspar Grande. Sail from Chaguaramas and climb to the top of the island, where you’ll get a fantastic view. Hike down into the Blue Grotto, a cave with an inviting bright blue tidal pool and stunning limestone formations (think well-developed flowstones, stalagmites and stalactites).

If you are the outdoor type, enjoy hikes to locations like the Maracas, Blue Basin, Edith, Lalaja or Paria waterfalls. Most of these waterfall hikes take you through beautiful montane forest, where the air is heavy with moisture and the silence brings out a great diversity of forest fauna. And getting to immerse yourself into refreshing mountain river water is just the icing on the cake. To start you off, try going to Three Pools; it’s a pretty simple hike up the Marianne River in Blanchisseuse which brings you to three freshwater bathing pools with a natural water slide.

Queen’s Royal College Photo: Patricia Lewis

8

The Trinidad Experience Experience our religious and cultural festivals and other significant events such as Divali; Shouter Baptist Liberation Day; Independence Day; Phagwa; Emancipation Day; Hosay; St. Peter’s Day; Indian Arrival Day; the Santa Rosa Festival; the We Beat steelband festival; Panyard Sensations; the International Culinary festival; Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week; Amerindian Heritage Day; Best Village; and Rapsofest.

Take along your camera on a coast to coast drive. It’s a beautiful cruise out of Port of Spain up along the north-west coast to Chaguaramas and beaches like Macqueripe. Stick to major roads like the Churchill-Roosevelt Highway that connects Port of Spain to Arima, or the north coast road that takes you from Arima up through the Northern Range to the pastoral Toco landscape and its surrounding villages. Or you can leave Arima and continue southeast through the ‘Cocal’ (four spectacular kilometres of unbroken sand, lined by grove upon grove of swinging coconut palm trees) toward the windswept Manzanilla and Mayaro beaches. The Uriah Butler Highway takes you from Champs Fleur (along the ChurchillRoosevelt) to central Trinidad towns like Chaguanas and Felicity.

The Sir Solomon Hochoy Highway takes you the rest of the way to San Fernando. The Point Lisas Industrial Estate is imposing, occupying a vast area of the south-west coast line. You can head back to Port of Spain along the highway, but the Southern Main Road is the more picturesque route, although it’s longer.

Fort George. It was built by the British in 1804 in a location that still gives a bird’s eye view of Trinidad’s west coastline and of Port of Spain.

Caroni Swamp & Bird Sanctuary. In central Trinidad, easy to find from either the Uriah Butler Highway or the Southern Main Road.

Several tour companies provide boat rides through the swamp, with knowledgeable guides who can inform tourists on the different species of bird, marine and mangrove wildlife that live there. If you take a dusk trip, you’ll witness flocks of scarlet ibis, Trinidad’s national bird, returning to their nests in the swamp.

The Nariva Swamp sits along the east coast. Several different species of birds inhabit this swamp, one of the largest wetlands in the Caribbean.

Piparo Mud Volcano is situated in the central range of Trinidad at Piparo; and those at Devil’s Woodyard, New Grant, are sulphur spring-type mini volcanoes, safe to visit.

Brian Lara Promenade, Port of Spain. Smack dab in the centre of the Port of Spain business district, this esplanade provides an oasis of trees, benches and art within the city’s hustle and bustle.

It frequently hosts concerts, fairs, food vendors and several species of chattering birds that settle down noisily in its trees at dusk Trinidad Theatre Workshop, Port of Spain. Derek Walcott started this group in 1959 with performances of his commanding plays, and since then the company has held to his tradition of putting on local literary and dramatic masterpieces.

Jinnah Memorial Mosque, St. Joseph, a structure with lovely architecture, including towering minarets.

National Museum and Art Gallery, Port of Spain. One of the country’s centres of arts and culture. Exhibits and hosts an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, jewelry and mas by local artists as well as displays on various eras of Trinidad and Tobago history.

Carib Brewery, Champ Fleurs. Where our famous Carib beer, which topped FOX News’ 2011 list of the five best Caribbean beers, is manufactured and shipped around the world. Tours can be arranged.

The Asa Wright Nature Centre attracts bird watchers and ecoenthusiasts from around the world, especially since Trinidad is home to over 400 bird species, hundreds of butterfly species and several reptile, mammal and amphibian species as well. Located on the Blanchisseuse Road in Arima, the centre sits on nearly 200 acres, which includes the lodge and cottages with accommodation for overnight stays, as well as several nature trails from which to view rare birds like the oilbird, as well as more common species like toucans, bananaquits and hummingbirds.

Western Main Road, St. James and Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook.

These streets are famous for their night life, including restaurants, bars, and casinos.

Galera Point. Standing on the tip of Trinidad’s north-east peninsula is one of those experiences that you’ll remember forever. You’ll witness the clash of personalities between the aggressive, dark blue Atlantic and the calmer, lighter Caribbean Sea. Be sure to take photos of the Toco Lighthouse; it’s a historical monument, built in 1897 and now maintained by the government and other national institutions.

Sports. Trinidadians party hard and also play hard, especially in cricket. Our soccer/football team made it to the World Cup finals in 2006 making us the smallest nation ever to make it to the finals.

There are world class golf courses at Maraval, Chaguaramas and Trincity. Other popular sports include horse racing at Santa Rosa Park virtually every Saturday and on public holidays; cycling; sailing; and track and field.

Divali Nagar is essentially a Hindu theme park that celebrates the festival of Divali with cultural events like folk theatre, Indian dance, traditional east Indian food and, of course, the lighting of up to ten million deeyas (clay lamps) to welcome Mother Lakshmi.

Divali Nagar celebrated its 25th year in 2011.

Trinidad’s and Tobago’s climate is pleasantly mild most of the time, with its tropical heat tempered nicely by the prevailing Trade Winds.

Business. Trinidad is the business capital of the region with strong energy and manufacturing sectors, and is a stable host for

10

several multinational investor companies like the Royal Bank of Canada, bpTT, British Gas, Cable & Wireless and Digicel. Though small, the island has hosted several high profile international events, including the 2007 Cricket World Cup, the 2009 Summit of the Americas and the Commonwealth Heads of Government summit.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Our musical rhythms. We’re famous for our calypso, soca, rapso, chutney and parang music as well. The latter is our Spanish-influenced Christmas music while chutney is a blend of soca and East Indian rhythms infused with the infectious musical instruments such as the tassa drum, the table, sitar and dholak.

For information on all these activities, most of which are free, call the Tourism Development Company of Trinidad and Tobago at (868) 800-4TNT, e-mail info@tdc.co.tt or visit their website at tdc.co.tt .

Photo: Maria Nunes

Countdown to Trinidad and Tobago’s 50th Anniversary

by Nasser Khan At midnight on August 30, 1962, Trinidad and Tobago’s red, white and black national flag was raised for the first time, heralding the birth of our newly independent nation. Throughout the length and breadth of our twin-islands, calypso and steelband music along with fireworks celebrated our new Independence Day, August 31.

On Independence Day 2012, Trinbagonians locally and all around the world will be flying the national colours with pride and joy. Two thousand and twelve marks 50 years since that historic day back in 1962.

And national celebration plans are well underway; there is an emphasis being placed on encouraging Trinbagonians and friends of T&T to visit the country during the period leading up to and including the grand finale on August 31 to experience our world-renowned culture, climate and cuisine.

Visitors can expect festivities designed to highlight, celebrate and re-educate the world about the twinislands’ multifaceted contribution to our global audience. On Independence Day itself, the zenith of the celebrations will include the pomp and splendour of the annual parade of the protective services at the Queens Park Savannah, Port of Spain, and in Scarborough, Tobago. Throngs of spectators congregate and line up from early morning to witness and cheer in a Carnivallike atmosphere.

In the afternoon, outstanding citizens and nonnationals who have contributed to the country in sectors like politics, social work, medicine and the development of women are celebrated at T&T’s annual National Awards Ceremony, held at the President’s House. These honoured guests receive awards like the Order of the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago (the nation’s highest honour), the Chaconia Medal, the Hummingbird Medal and the Public Servants’ Medal of Merit.

Independence Day usually ends with a fireworks display in the capitals of both islands. Locals and visitors alike make a lime of it, parking all over the city at tactical points from which to take in the display, and also to eat, drink and be merry.

T&T’s 50th Anniversary of Independence will also be celebrated across the globe in the Diaspora, especially Miami, New York, Toronto and London. Grand events are being planned, said Garvin Nicholas, Trinidad and Tobago’s High Commissioner to the United Kingdom.

In London, these include a church service, gala dinner and an award ceremony to honour nationals living in the UK and other accredited countries.

Jan uary 1 2

New Year’s Day First Citizens Bank New Years Day Races, Arima 7 TRIBE ICE www.carnivaltribe.com info@carnivaltribe.com 8 Soca in Moka - All Inclusive, Trinity College, Maraval 14 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Monthly Medals 14 Stumped!!! Cooler Fete Queen’s Park Oval 14 Black to Blue Breakfast Party - San Fernando Hill Tel: 868 350 6463 19-30 National Pan Preliminaries 21-22 St. Andrew’s Golf Club TATIL Championships 21 Red Ants Carnival Party 21 Blue Range All Inclusive 21 ONE Fete – POS www.ultimateeventstt.com info@redantscarnival.com 28 Blue Flame - BlueRange All Inclusive www.ultimateeventstt.com info@redantscarnival.com 29 Yorke Inc., FB Promotions and Kreative Concepts Annual All-Inclusive Fete 29 T&T International Marathon @Queen’s Park Savannah 29 Rainbow Warriors Triathlon Club River Raid VI, Samaan Park, Chaguaramas TBA The Beacon Cycle Smart Programme TBA River Raid Mountain Bike Race TBA Traditions of Carnival TBA WASA Fete - WASA Compound

Photo: Peter Sheppard

12

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

13

Maria Nunes

February 5 10 11 11 12 13 13 13 14 14 15 15 15 16 16 16 17 17 17

14

National Panorama Semi-Finals National Single Pan and Small Bands Finals Calypso Fiesta - Skinner Park, San Fernando Red Cross Kiddies Carnival www.ncctt.org National Junior Panorama Finals Junior Calypso Monarch Finals Arima Panorama Calypso Clash Senior Kings Semi Finals/Junior Queens Finals 14 THA Pan Finals Rapso Explosion Hyatt Regency Lime Fete www.trinidad.hyatt.com Calypsonians Welfare Fundraiser Stick Fighting Finals St. Andrew’s Golf Club Corona Ladies Kaisorama (Extempo Finals) TRIBE Ignite Thursday www.carnivaltribe.com, info@carnivaltribe.com Senior Queens Semi Finals/ Jr Kings Finals Dragon Festival http://ttdbf.webs.com/ International Soca Monarch - Fantastic Friday www.socamonarch.net 624-2134 627-0947 internationalsocamonarch@gmail.com

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

18-19 18 18 18 18

St. Andrew’s Golf Club Svelty Ladies Dawn, Sunrise in the City - Jenny’s Car Park Insomnia Carnival Fete - Mobs 2 Panorama Finals www.pantrinbago.co.tt Sauté Trinbago 2012 Tel: 868 74SAUTE sautetrinbago@gmail.com 19 Mania Carnival Fete - Country Club 19 Junior Parade of the Bands www.ncctt.org 19 Carnival Fundraiser Fete - Queen’s Hall 19 Dimanche Gras www.tucott.com 20 Jouvert www.ncctt.org 20-21 Carnival Monday and Tuesday Parade of the Bands www.ncctt.org 22 Ash Wednesday 25 Champs of Steels Plus, www.ncctt.org 26 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Carnival Fete 24-26 The Tobago Carnival Regatta - A Festival of Wind www.tobagocarnivalregatta.com TBA The Beacon Wahoo Fishing Tournament TBA Folk Theatre Presentations/Handicraft, www.community.gov.tt

Photo Courtesy Harts Carnival Band

15

Goat Racing in Tobago Peter Sheppard

March

Apr il

10

1 1-4

10-11 15-18 15-18 18

24 24-25 30 30-1 TBA

16

St. Andrew’s Golf Club Coca Cola Club Championships Tobago International WAHOO Tournament www.ttgfa.com Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament www.ttgfa.com St. Andrew’s Golf Club ANSA McCal T&T Open Vinci Construction Mini Duathlon & Savannah 1 Lap Run - Queen’s Park Savannah, POS Jazz Artists on the Greens Bridal Beauty & Beyond Expo 2012 Movie Towne Spiritual Baptist Day International Surf Festival Village Olympics, www.community.gov.tt

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

International Surf Festival St. Andrew’s Golf Club Republic Bank Caribbean Junior Open 6 Good Friday 9 Easter Monday 10 Tobago Easter Crab and Goat Races & other recreational activities 14-15 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Sagicor St. Andrew’s Invitational 21-29 Tobago Jazz Experience www.tobagojazzexperience.com 21 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Lucas Bowl 21 Official Launch of Point Fortin Borough Festivities 28 Horse Racing, Arima 29 Jazz on the Beach, Pigeon Point Heritage Park Tel: 868 639-8871 TBA The Beacon Trinidad & Tobago Cycling Festival TBA Tobago Power Boat Regatta Tel: 868 643 8600 TBA Petrotrin Southen Games TBA Food & Folk Fair, www.community.gov.tt

Calendar

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

17

Inken Janning

May

Jun e

5

1-9

St. Andrew’s Golf Club Corporate Tournament 5-6 Pt. Fortin Borough Day Celebrations (Facebook) www.Ttdbf.webs.com 12 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Audi Quatro Cup 16-19 Trade & Investment Convention (TIC) 2012 - Hyatt Regency Trinidad www.tic@ttma.com 23 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Cotton Tree Charity T’ment 26-8 Annual Rainbow Cup (Adult Triathlon, Kids Triathlon, 5k Run & 2,000m Open Water Swim) - Turtle Beach, Black Rock, Tobago 30 Indian Arrival Day www.ncictt.com 30 Carib Indian Arrival Day Races, Arima 12 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Audi TBA The Beacon National Amateur Gymnastics Invit’l TBA SATT International Surfing Festival TBA Tobago Culinary Festival Tel: 868 639 2125 www.visittobago.gov.tt TBA Clean & Beautify/Village Chat/ La Reine Rive Semi Finals, www.community.gov.tt

18

WeBeat Festival www.webeat.org 7 Corpus Christi 9-10 Well Services Group of Companies King Fish Tournament 10 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Mecedes Trophy Tournament 17 Pigeon Pt. Dragon Boat Regatta www.Ttdbf.webs.com 19 Labour Day 19 Horse Racing, Arima 22-24 San Fernando Fashion Week

July 1

St. Andrew’s Golf Club TTMCO Charity 7 TTGA Junior Anglers Fishing Tournament www.ttgfa.com 15 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Hi-Lo Trini Scramble 22-29 Tobago Underwater Carnival 2012 www.tobagounderwatercarnival.com

TBA TBA

www.sanfernandofashionweek.webs.com

TBA TBA

Charlotteville Fisherman Festival Tel: 868 660 5521 Village Olympics/Folk Theatre Semi Finals, www.community.gov.tt

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

TBA

The Beacon Barbados Circuit Racing Tobago Heritage Festival 639-5016/4441 or www.tobagoheritagefestival.com Junior Best Village/Clean & Beautify Finals, www.community.gov.tt

Calendar

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

19

20

August

September October

1

1 9

10-12

14-17

26

31

31 31 TBA TBA

15-16

22

24

24 24 24 TBA

Emancipation Day www.panafricanfestival.org Horse Racing, Arima Eid-ul-Fitr, National Council of Indian Culture 868 671 6242 TDC International

“Trinidad Tarpon Thunder” Tournament, www.ttgfa.com St. Andrew’s Golf Club

Stephen Ames Cup GHL Independence Day

Dragon Boat Regatta St. Andrew’s Golf Club

Independence Cup Independence Day Horse Racing, Arima Carib Beer Great Race Independence Folk Festival – La Reine Rive, Handicraft, Folk Theatre Presentations/ 1Village Chat, www.community.gov.tt

St. Andrew’s Golf Club Agostini Ladies Mr San Fernando Male Show Trinidad Newsday Cycling Classic & Fun Run World Tourism Day Republic Day Horse Racing, Arima Trinidad and Tobago Film Festival

www.trinidadandtobagofilmfestival.com

TBA Tobago International Cyling Classic www.trinbagowheelers.com

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Calypson History Month www.tucott.com 6-7 Orchid Festival www.ttorchids.net 7 Chinese Bicentennial

Ltd. Chinese Arrival

Dragon Boat Regatta 14 St. Andrew’s Golf Club

Living Waters Charity

Tournament 16 World Food Day 29-30 Taste T&T International Culinary Festival www.tdc.co.tt TBA The Beacon Nathan

Hajal Memorial Ride TBA Tobago Fashion Collections TBA Parang Season Opens www.npatt.com TBA T&T Steelpan and Jazz

Festival www.steelpanjazzfestival.com

Best Village Competition Edison Boodoosingh

November December 10

13

17

18

24 TBA

TBA

TBA

Funfish Tournament www.ttgfa.com Divali 868 671-6242 www.ncictt.com Miss City of San Fernando Pageant 2012 RWTC 3rd Annual Tag Team Relay Triathlon - Las Cuevas Beach Hosay The Beacon Secondary Schools Swim Meet 72 Annual Pan, Parang and Pork, Liz Nansoo, Invaders Steel Orchestra Tel: 868 345 3442 or www.invaders-tt.com Silver Stars “Parang and Steel” Tragarete Rd, Woodbrook www.silverstarspan.com

8 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Men’s Hamper 9 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Ladies Hamper 25 Christmas Day 26 Tobago Colours Annual Kite Flying Competition Tel: 868 639 5428 26 Boxing Day 26 Horse Racing, Arima TBA Silver Stars “Parang and Steel” Tragarete Rd, Woodbrook www.silverstarspan.com

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

21

The Trinidad Experience

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

23

The Trinidad Experience Around the Savannah

by Paul Hadden

You arrive just as dawn breaks, joining the line of parked cars snaking their way down to the corner. As you put on your running shoes, you glance in the rear view mirror and see that the driver in the car behind you is doing the same thing. There is a rhythm to this ritual. A quick look outside shows that you are by no means the first to arrive; there is an endless stream of people in movement, some sauntering, and some speeding by, but they are all moving in the same direction. You wonder if they will be able to sense your newness.

Even though you’ve been told that the Queen’s Park Savannah is a popular site for exercise, the sight of so many joggers this early in the morning is a bit of a shock. It is equally hard to believe that before 1950, the Savannah was once encircled not by joggers but by an electric tram which for two cents would provide you with a tour of the grounds.

As you step into the flow of joggers, you realise that this is not the slow, aqueous dawn of the colder northern countries.

Night shifts to day quickly, and a jog is the best way to jump back into the action of the hectic day. Cars buzz past you and the pre-work traffic starts to build. This is, after all, not just a park punctuated by benches and majestic trees, but it is also the world’s largest traffic roundabout.

You’ve started on the western end, right opposite the elegant bell tower of Queen’s Royal College (QRC). The first things that you notice are seven extravagant mansions standing side by side. These buildings are known as the Magnificent Seven; a group of eclectic, colonial style mansions built at the turn of the century when the lucrative Trinidadian cocoa industry was at its peak. This impressive lineup begins with the newly renovated QRC, a prestigious all-boys secondary school and alma mater of Nobel Prize winning author V. S. Naipaul. And it ends with Stollmeyer’s Castle, designed by Scottish architect Robert Gillies and said to be modeled after a wing of Scotland’s historic Balmoral Castle.

You pick up your pace but you still take note of the surrounding trees. Between the Magnificent Seven and the Botanical Gardens, there are almost 800 different species of them. You can see examples of the magnificent samaan: a tree that can live thrice as long as any man. Their thin leaves let the soft morning light seep though in a luminescent web.

Then there are the fiery red flamboyants, bold with sweeping thick flower lined branches. There is, however, no tree that has captured the hearts of locals more than the ephemeral poui, which leaves carpets of soft pastel yellow and pink flowers on the dusty earth during dry season.

As you turn the first corner you will notice the ponds and sunken grounds of The Hollows on your right hand side; it’s the only landscaped area of the Savannah. You are likely to see families and uniformed school children picnicking here.

To your left is Lady Chancellor Hill: a challenging uphill run which rewards joggers with a killer view of Port-of-Spain. Look a little further into the Savannah’s green belly and you will see amateur cricketers and footballers using the space. And if you Photo: Patricia Lewis

24

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Peter Sheppard

The Trinidad Experience

find yourself in conversation with a horse racing enthusiast, he or she will share memories of being taken to the Savannah for horse racing until it was relocated to Arima in the early nineties.

You are holding a steady pace now. On your left hand side the Emperor Valley Zoo looms; named after the electric blue emperor butterfly that abounds in the valley and in the adjacent Botanical Gardens. After the zoo, President’s House stands, used for national award ceremonies and diplomatic receptions in addition to being the official residence of the President. This charming building is set proudly behind its neatly manicured gardens; the gardens are a favourite local spot for newlyweds to take photographs.

A little further up the road are two of the country’s most prestigious concert halls. The first, just off the Savannah near the entrance to Cascade and St. Ann’s, is Queen’s Hall theatre.

Aside from the yearlong showing of plays, concerts, and recitals, here is where the country’s top classical musicians compete during the annual music festival competition. The second theatre is the new and ultramodern National Academy for the Performing Arts (NAPA); its contemporary design mirrors the shape of the chaconia, Trinidad and Tobago’s national flower.

Obliquely opposite NAPA is the newly renovated Carnival stage, the cultural heart of the Savannah and the mecca of all things Carnival.

26

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

As you round one of the last legs of the Savannah, near to the U.S. Embassy, you will notice a small, walled off concrete area hidden away from prying eyes. Don’t jog past here too quickly though. One quick peek through the locked iron grill guarding its entrance and you will see that this little plot of land is full of tombstones, their inscriptions written in French. This is the Peschier Cemetery, and buried here are the remains of the original owners of the Queen’s Park Savannah, known then as Paradise Estate. It was in 1817, almost two hundred years ago, that Madame Peschier sold the Savannah to then Governor Sir Ralph Woodford for the price of 6,000 pounds sterling. The 260 acres of land were sold with the understanding that they be used as a recreational ground for the people, a promise which has so far been kept.

You are in the home stretch now, beads of sweat dripping down your temples, the morning sun beginning to warm up. You made it, the ritual is complete. Now it is time for a reward. It seems a little too early for a piping hot bag of phoulourie, or a guava and pineapple syrup-laced snow cone, so you opt for the healthier option – an ice cold coconut. To blend in, forget about using a straw. If you wish, you can always tell the cutlasswielding coconut vendor that you want to eat the jelly too. Let him slice the nut in half for you and then watch as he makes a homemade spoon from the husk of the coconut. Now you’re doing it like a true Trini.

Meet

a Trin i

Soca Songstress Destra Garcia The vivacious and sultry Destra Garcia is one of T&T’s soca darlings. Known simply as ‘Destra’ to her adoring fans both locally and around the world, she is one of the country’s premier female artistes with an ambition to be the first soca artiste to gain international acclaim by copping a Grammy award.

Born and bred in Laventille on the outskirts of capital city Port of Spain, Destra has shared the stage with Patti La Belle, Diana Ross, Gladys Knight, Stevie Wonder, Beyonce, Heather Headley, Shaggy, Ja-Rule, Rihanna, Mary J Blige, and Sean Paul. A versatile all-round singer, she chose to focus on soca and make it her career after winning several high school calypso competitions.

Raised in a musical household, her father, Lloyd, is an accomplished guitarist and her grandfather, a saxophonist.

“By age three, I was singing while they accompanied me.

Friends would come over [and] of course little me, uninhibited, would start singing,” Destra fondly remembers. “My uncles would take me to sing in calypso competitions and my mom would make my outfits and costumes.” Now mother of an almost two-year-old toddler, Destra Garcia has grown from strength to strength since her 1999 debut. The entertainer

by Nasser Khan

is showing no signs of slowing down, challenging herself every year, taking her music and her fans worldwide along for the exciting journey. Before the release of her first album in 2003, Destra burst onto the scene with a catchy chart topper “Tremble It”. She instantly became a household name in the soca arena.

She has so far churned out seven albums, the first of which was called Red, White, Black (the colours of T&T’s national flag). Red, White, Black included the ever popular hit “It’s Carnival”, a collaboration with soca giant Machel Montano.

That year she won the Road March title for the most popular song played at the Labour Day Carnival in Brooklyn, USA. This was followed by another hit release, “Bonnie and Clyde” on her second album. Some of her later hits include “Fly”, “Max it Up”, “Out of Time”, “Bacchanal” and “Middle of the Road” Over the past six years Destra has won many awards; among them Best Female Songwriter and Best Steel Pan Song . She’s also earned the prestigious 2011 Soca Vanguard award for her contribution to the growth of soca in Jamaica, proving her ability to captivate multiple markets. Destra remains the most requested female soca artiste and her music is now available at Amazon and iTunes.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

27

Maria Nunes

by Sheldon Waithe

carnival

The Return of the Stage “D stage is in front of us!

Time to get advantageous!

Stamp on it, stamp on it, stamp on it, stamp on it!

Trample it, trample it, trample it, trample it !”

Machel Montano’s battle cry will forever be synonymous with Carnival 2011; just as 2011 will forever be known as the year that the iconic stage returned to Trinidad & Tobago’s Carnival after a fiveyear hiatus.

If the festival gets better with each passing year, the triumphant return of that wooden platform in the Queen’s Park Savannah propelled Carnival 2011 beyond the stratosphere of celebration and revelry. If Carnival is the ultimate party, then the stage is its ultimate performance point – the place where revellers can ‘play themselves’; where the sights of costume colour, the smell of adrenalin and sounds of soca all congregate to create the Carnival cauldron.

However, the stage’s contribution to Carnival extends beyond the Parade of Bands; in fact, it is as central to the festivities as calypso, chutney soca and the costume designers. Each Carnival Saturday the stage hosts the steelband Panorama competition. Its foundation is shaken to the core when bands like All Stars, Exodus and Phase II do battle by making steel talk. With Carnival Sunday’s Dimanche Gras,

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

29

Carnival the stage also provides the platform for the Kings and Queens of Carnival to be crowned. It is here that the Peter Minshalls and Brian McFarlanes of the world dazzle the world with their creations before unleashing them into the Parade of Bands.

Dimanche Gras (Carnival Sunday or ‘Fat Sunday’) ends with the epic battle of lyrics called the Calypso Monarch competition. With a history dating back to Spoiler’s 1953 triumph and continuing through the eras to Karen Asche’s 2011 victory, the stage knows over 50 years of calypso legacy intimately. If it could speak, the stage could provide a running commentary on the history of the nation based on the ‘kaiso’ (another word for calypso) delivered on its surface. This is the stage where Sparrow let loose “Jean and Dinah”; where Kitchener caught “Fever”; where David Rudder hit us with “The Hammer”; and where Calypso Rose was crowned the first female Monarch with “Her Majesty”.

Calypso Monarch is a crucial contest that provides the foundation for all the music that comprises modern soca.

The musical stage has even borne a few offshoots like the Chutney Soca stage at Skinner Park and Carnival Friday’s International Power Soca and Groovy Soca Monarch stage at the National Stadium, both now cultivating their own legacy.

The beauty of the stage is that it encapsulates the spirit of Carnival.

It allows all the masqueraders to be performers for the two-day Parade of Bands; the freedom and never-ending energy of mas is barely contained.

As the kaleidoscope of colour winds its way through the streets of Port of Spain, bands of all sizes, from the huge Tribe, Island People and Trini Revellers through to the smaller intimate bands like Tribal Connection and Belmont Jewels, await their moment in the limelight of the stage: the moment when street theatre takes centre stage for a brief moment, then wait for another year for the chance to perform.

The stage dictates it all.

For Carnival veterans and newbies alike, it was the stage that took ‘advantage’ of us and will do so again in 2012 and beyond.

Photo: Gregory Scott

30

31

Edison Boodoosingh

T&T’s Indian festivals

by Desiree Seebaran

T&T’s diverse culture and history would not be complete without mentioning the dramatic and colourful East Indian festivals brought here by the Indian indentured workers who first arrived in 1845.

Ramadan and Eid Ul Fitr

Muslims fast during the month of Ramadan, which falls anywhere between August and November on the shifting lunar Islamic calendar. Dawn to dusk fasts from eating and drinking during this month is a discipline meant to help Muslims remember the less fortunate. Fasting increases a Muslim’s taqwah (relationship with Allah), so when they make dua (pray), their prayers are more likely to be heard and answered.

The Eid Ul Fitr feast ends Ramadan, and it is celebrated as a national holiday. Families show this spiritual refreshing by donning new clothes and visiting their mosques for prayer. They may visit friends and family to share a meal with special sweets and pastries. Muslims and non-Muslims greet each other with ‘Eid Mubarak’ or ‘Happy Eid.’

Ramleela

The epic Hindu saga of Ramleela can be found in the Hindu holy text Ramayana. And annually, descendants of the East Indian indentured servants perform dramatic interpretations of this saga as their ancestors did, on open ground (without a stage).

Approximately 30 to 40 Ramleela groups act out this drama between September and October each year in central Trinidad. For up to 11 nights, volunteer actors or players portray the timeless struggle between good and evil as seen in the life of Shree Ram, an avatar of one member of the Hindu Trinity, Lord Vishnu.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

33

Divali

This Hindu ‘festival of lights’ is a national holiday and is held on the darkest night of the month of Kartik, which runs from mid-October to mid-November.

Sometimes called ‘Diwali,’ Divali is characterised by the spectacular display of hundreds of lit deeyas (small clay lamps) outside houses, on walls and perched upon home-made bamboo stands. Deeyas are said to have lit Shree Ram’s path back to Ayodia after his exile.

Because Divali traditionally marks the end of the harvest season in many countries, Hindus honour goddess Lakshmi with a puja (ceremonial worship) at 6 p.m., just when the first deeya is lit, to thank her for bringing wealth and prosperity. They fast from meat, alcohol or intimate relations for up to a month before Divali, and clean their houses so that Mother Lakshmi will enter on Divali night and bless the household. On the day itself, Hindus prepare feasts with special food and sweets to share with their neighbours, wear new clothes and look forward to the year ahead.

Phagwa

This spring festival actually celebrates the righteous but gruesome death of Hiranyakashipu, a king who was blessed by the Hindu creator Brahma but used his power for evil instead of good. He was killed by an avatar of Lord Vishnu because of his evil deeds and intentions toward his son Prahalad, a true devotee. Hindus celebrate Phagwa by playfully squirting a coloured fluid called abeer on each other in pastoral settings, representing the spurting blood of King Hiranyakashipu.

Ganga Dashahara

Ganga Dashahara is a festival that originated on the banks of the Ganga River ‘Ganges’. The festival celebrates the descent of the divinity Ganga from the celestial region to earth, in order to release the souls of the sons of King Sagara after five generations of self-denial. It is said that the waters are spiritually renewed annually on the anniversary of the descent, the tenth tithi (lunar day) of the Hindu month of Jyeshtha, which runs from May 21 to June 22 each year.

Ganga Dashahara in T&T was revived in 1994, and takes place at the source of the Marianne River in Blanchisseusse, Arima. The river was consecrated by water and dust from over 2000 holy rivers and places in India. Worshippers fast for several weeks to attend this puja. Wearing yellow, a colour that represents purity and religious restraint in Hinduism, devotees walk along the river to its source, carrying offerings of buttercups, fruits, milk and other items and stopping at several points ghats along the way to perform pujas.

Photo: Edison Boodoosingh

experience

Denzil James

The Trinidad

Point Fortin Borough Day About 20 miles south-west of Trinidad’s second city, San Fernando, and steeped in sport and culture, Point Fortin is T&T’s smallest borough. But its Borough Day celebrations are larger than life, condensing the larger Carnival experience in the north-west into an intense burst of Trini-style fêteing.

Point Fortin Borough Day is usually held on the first Saturday in May every year, although the anniversary of when it received its borough status is actually April 30. Two thousand and eleven marked the 31st anniversary of Point Fortin Borough Day, and the celebrations were dedicated to two men born and bred in the borough: the late Mighty Duke (Kelvin Pope), the only calypsonian to win four National Calypso Monarch titles consecutively; and to multiple Road March and Soca Monarch champion Super Blue (Austin Lyons).

The actual Borough Day weekend started on May 6 when the We Meet Pan Jam took place and the steelbands took to the streets. Orchestras like Trinidad Cement Limited Skiffle Bunch, Trinidad Valley Harps, Point Fortin Tornadoes, WITCO Desperados and bpTT All Stars all performed a mix of musical genres for the thousands that danced in the streets from 7 p.m. until after midnight. Afterward, partiers headed off, either to the various fêtes (parties) or home to prepare for J’Ouvert the next morning.

J’Ouvert is the traditional opening of Carnival celebrations, where people parade through the streets covered in oil and mud or in homemade costumes through which they make political and social statements. From 4 a.m. masqueraders flocked onto the streets, dancing to the music played from large music trucks. Several soca artistes, including legend Super Blue and young popular singer Orlando Octave performed from these trucks. Chocolate City was the parade’s most

by Luke Benai popular masquerade band, probably because they covered their masqueraders in chocolate rather than the traditional mud or oil! J’Ouvert celebrations went on until midday when the traditional Carnival characters and pretty mas replaced the mud masqueraders. This led into the Steelband Bomb competition where over 20 steel orchestras performed on the streets again. Traditionally, the bands play three songs: their respective Panorama selections for that year, a ‘bomb’ song (any song from a past era, at least 10 to 15 years ago) and a test piece; each song is played at a different judging point since the idea of the competition is to have pan played on the move. This year, in memory of the Mighty Duke, band could have chosen any of his original calypsoes as their bomb song.

It was close to daybreak before the steelbands left the streets, and mas players headed to the Clifton Hill Beach Club for the Sunrise Fete where they partied to the music of their hometown hero, soca star Iwer George, alongside the Roy Cape All Stars. Other soca singers performed, including Denise ‘Saucy Wow’ Belfon, Swappi, Benjai and Shal Marshall.

The Borough Corporation is already making plans to expand all of the existing events and to add more family-friendly ones for 2012.

For more information, please call the Point Fortin Borough Corporation at (868) 648-2124.

Did you know?

Professional footballers Kenwyne Jones and Avery John are from Point Fortin, as are soca superstars like Fay-Ann Lyons (Super Blue’s daughter), Barnet ‘Preacher’ Henry and Iwer George.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

35

experience

The Trinidad

Still Fashion Forward T&T fashion sector accelerates

by Desiree Seebaran

Fashion in T&T really hit a high note in 2011. Anya Ayoung-Chee, former T&T Miss Universe delegate and newbie fashion designer, shocked the world with her win on the ninth season of Project Runway (PR). And the hashtag #PRAnya swamped Twitter feeds around the world as T&T fans made sure that she also won Fan Favourite on the popular fashion design show by the time voting ended on October A piece from the Cocoa Vintage collection 26. Thousands tuned in weekly as Ayoung-Chee’s unerring sense of taste, drapery and colour earned her close to US$200,000 in cash and prizes at the finish of PR, despite the fact that she had only been sewing for four months prior to the show.

“I definitely think that it has been great exposure, not just for the fashion industry but for T&T as a whole,” Ayoung-Chee said of her achievement on PR. “Exposure is very valuable, so once we follow up on it and strive for the standards that are expected in the international market, we have a much bigger voice than we did before PR.” She added that T&T is now much more likely to be considered for fashion in the global arena, “and I think that’s fantastic.”

Despite the disappointing cancellation of Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week, models were still warming up runways during the latter half of the year. Tobago Fashion Week came off with a bang, and boasted international heavy hitter Romero Bryan from the London College of Fashion as part of its line-up of designers. In October, Indian lifestyle showroom the House of Jaipur hosted its annual Bombay Dreams fashion show and charity event at the Hilton Trinidad Ballroom in Port of Spain. The event showcased the ethnic-styled work of established local designers, including Heather Jones, Peter Elias and Meiling.

Bombay Dreams raised money for the the Samaan Shelter for Abused Women and Children and the Vitas House Hospice for terminally ill cancer patients.

Also in October, Executive Events produced Red Runway Trinidad & Tobago, a showcase for emerging fashion talent and established local brands. One hundred and thirty models were selected to participate, including plus sized models. Local fashion veteran Christopher Nathan of the Caribbean Academy of Fashion & Design (CAFD) at the University of Trinidad and Tobago directed the show, which was held at the Woodbrook Youth Facility and sponsored by the Carlton Savannah hotel. CAFD students headlined the event, alongside well-known fashion houses like

Shaun Griffith Perez and Christian Boucaud Designs. The fashion design and fashion management programmes at CAFD have been turning out very competent local fashion professionals, under whose nimble fingers the future of the local industry really lies.

“The Caribbean Academy of Fashion and Design (CAFD) Fashion Design Diploma graduates will be skilled technicians in the fashion industry with the keen eye for high quality garments and good aesthetics,” said CAFD programme leader for fashion design Sandra Carr. She heads CAFD along with programme leader for fashion management Lisa Sinanan.

Nathan added, “We hope that some graduates will become fashion entrepreneurs, launching their own businesses while others will join established fashion houses to continue the drive to develop Port of Spain into a respected fashion centre.”

Crystal Antoine is one such entrepreneur. Her line of hand-crafted jewelry, Cocoa Vintage, started when she did a short jewelry elective course during an intense two-year associate degree in fashion design from CAFD. Cocoa Vintage pieces are stunningly intricate, unique, and many are already making the local circuit with fashion photographers, blogs and magazines. Antoine, who graduated in 2010, believes that there are a lot of CAFD students both past and present who have the vision and design skills to make it on an international stage like Ayoung-Chee has.

Antoine said. “I believe once you have passion, drive and a will to succeed it can happen no matter what.”

Illustrator and graphic design artist James Hackett is in his final year at CAFD, focused on clothing design. His BA programme in Fashion Design has challenged and stretched him over the last four years, he said, disciplining him and his classmates into the mode of getting things done. The 2012 cohorts’ thesis collections are being mentored by local fashion maven Meiling; and for juniors shows, the group worked with established designers who critiqued their work.

“I would say that the programme made you start thinking way beyond just Trinidad and Tobago for ideas, creation and inspiration. I have a lot of hope for my classmates; it will be an exciting new age for Caribbean fashion.”

A fashion all-rounder: Model, stylist and designer Anya Ayoung-Chee has shot to international attention twice; first as T&T’s 2008 Miss Universe contender and in 2011 as the winner of the ninth Project Runway.

Photo: Laura Ferreira

36 36

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

37

shopping

by Christine Mahon

Trinidad continues to be a major shopping centre in the Caribbean, with numerous opportunities to part with some currency. Most stores accept major credit cards or US cash, but it is advisable to utilise the growing number of ATMs or an exchange trader to get some extra local currency for more ‘rustic’ shopping.

You can shop just about anywhere on the island, from multi-level shopping malls and sprawling plazas to family-run businesses and main streets spilling over with variety shops chock full of assorted merchandise.

Trinidad’s modern malls are all easily accessible from the main highways and offer the convenience of banking facilities, food courts and restaurants; as well as a wide cross section of sophisticated retail stores, including books, jewellry, art, fashion, leather goods, flower shops, home furnishings and more. Several of the major malls also have the convenient proximity of some of the larger chains of supermarkets stocked with all your culinary and household necessities.

Stores take advantage of local cultural, religious and historical events to have sales throughout the year, much to the delight of locals and visitors alike. The entire mood of these occasions, particularly the busy Christmas season, is enhanced by mall decorating and a medley of foreign and local music to serenade the shoppers.

The Falls at Westmall in the island’s north-west is a world-class mall with 130 stores as well as two major banks, cellular phone centers, food court or choice of cozy cafés to welcome the most

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

39

Shopping fatigued and famished of shoppers. Exiting ‘The Falls’, the Western Main Road takes you through the quaint and busy St. James shopping district, north of which is Long Circular Mall, one of Trinidad’s first malls and a landmark shopping centre with three levels of brand name merchandise and retailers, plus food court, gym and supermarket.

For tropical open air exercise, try the plazas or ‘strip malls’ along the beaten track. Starlite Shopping Plaza in Diego Martin and Highland Plaza in Glencoe, or Shoppes of Maraval and the elegant Ellerslie Plaza are open for some sophisticated outdoor shopping in signature boutiques.

Set in a beautiful outdoor Mediterranean-themed shopping sanctuary, MovieTowne entertainment & shopping complex at Invaders Bay delivers a complete shopping experience with its ten-screen multiplex cinema, over forty premier shops and several popular restaurants.

The ever-expanding Trincity Mall, one of the largest shopping centres in the English-speaking Caribbean, has over 5 million shoppers annually and is home to a mix of fashion retail, entertainment, two food courts and several top class restaurants, which offer everything from Italian food to Asian cuisine to sushi. This mall is also home to Caribbean Cinemas 8, an eight-screen Cineplex, a large supermarket, and three major banks either inside or adjacent. Also conveniently located between Port of Spain and Piarco Airport, Valpark Shopping Plaza has 115 shops. The City of Grand Bazaar is at the corner of Trinidad’s two major highways and offers

40

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

a sprawling shopping, dining and entertaining experience while retaining the ambience of the outdoors. On a smaller scale, Centre Pointe Mall and Centre City Mall service the customers of Chaguanas. Gulf City Mall, further South in La Romain, has its own range of distinctive boutiques and a designated section for children’s shopping with a convenient play area.

Port of Spain, our country’s capital, has luxury items from all over the globe, including Irish linens, English china, Scandinavian crystal, French perfumes, Swiss watches, and Japanese cameras. At shops that specialise in locallymade products, you can choose from handmade soaps and lotions or high-end products like exquisite jewellery. Prices may be higher, but expect both quality and variety. Cheaper imported items from Venezuela, China, India, Brazil and the United States contend with locally assembled commodities to satisfy the desires of every customer.

In ‘downtown’ Port of Spain, shoppers have the opportunity to amble along some ;of Trinidad’s oldest urban roads. Witness the beauty of 100-year-old architecture in the columns and balustrades on Frederick Street. Peruse the arcade malls from Frederick Street to Henry and Charlotte Streets for access to bookstores, jewellry outlets, clothing and shoe shops teeming with the latest fashions. Bargain your way through the sidewalk vendors who jostle on the periphery of these shops selling an assortment of merchandise.

Perhaps consider heading to the Brian Lara Promenade to

Shopping see what local craftsmen are hawking. Examine the skilled handwork in leather goods like belts and sandals and don’t forget to pay special attention to the array of wood carvings.

A booming garment industry is serviced by numerous textile stores stocked with an extensive variety of materials and embellishments. Discover gorgeous batiks and exotic sari silks, upholstery and drapery fabrics, bridal and evening wear, men’s suiting and elegant linens at excellent prices.

With a broad spectrum of drapery and soft furnishings, home decorating is truly effortless.

Fine quality furniture and fittings of both modern and traditional styles complete the smooth decorating process.

Choose from the beautiful rustic lines of imported Mexican and Guyanese furniture or seek out precious West Indian antiques that project the history of our cosmopolitan society.

Arts & Antiques in Westmall, Yesteryear in St. James or West Indian Antiques in Arima have much to offer. Contemporary pieces manufactured in Asia as well as North American traditional furniture are also available at outlets of Signature Collection and Standard Stores and are easily accessorised with home furnishings from both local and international suppliers.

Before leaving ‘downtown’, be sure to nip into the landmark Excellent City Centre, with a variety of over sixty shops. Its very own Excellent Stores has a vast selection of items from household objects to children’s clothing and seasonal decorations. With branches at MovieTowne, Price Plaza and Trincity Mall, Excellent Stores opens seven days a week.

42

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

The Parkade car park on the western end of downtown Port of Spain provides several stories of convenient parking. Head for the ultra-modern National Library on Abercromby Street or continue strolling as far across as Charlotte Street to the eastern end of town. You’ll encounter a marketplace buzzing with merchants, selling a cornucopia of items from Chinese preserves to cast iron pots, seasonal fruit and vegetables to trinkets available from a tray on the pavement or possibly the back of a pick-up truck.

Mobile phones are easily available in the malls, plazas and other cell phone outlets. Top-up cards can be purchased at most supermarkets and drugstores as well as other easily identified distributors. Rectify any computer dilemma with resources available from a host of businesses. High quality network systems, data recovery services, rentals and repairs are available from Trinidad Systems Limited, POS, Datasafe, Arima, Computer Rentals Caribbean and Computer Network Systems, McEnearny Business Machines in POS, S.A.R.A.S., Maraval or Pro Technologies, Belmont Circular Road - but a few of the numerous companies offering their expertise.

If you prefer more grassroots shopping, a procession of roadside vendors plying their trade in Port of Spain, Chaguanas and most of the East West Corridor entice travelers with a bounty of local and foreign fruit, vegetables, leather craft and imported goods.

Venture down the south-bound highway to central Trinidad, the pottery-making capital of the island, and enter

Shopping Chaguanas. It boasts a fabulous accumulation of clay artifacts at extremely reasonable prices.

Indian Trade Fairs and Expos are great sources for a wide range of ethnic clothing, eastern style furniture, exquisite Indian jewellry, brass and bedding, bringing the authenticity of an exotic, foreign land to the eager consumer. Look out for advertisements which appear in the local press especially around the Hindu festival of Divali, usually celebrated in October or November. Rest and restore at the House of Jaipur’s Indian Tea room as you deliberate just how to spend your money on a fine selection of jewelry, clothing, and home interior accessories.

Trinidad and Tobago’s multi-ethnicity gives rise to gems of the African continent as well. Beautifully crafted baskets, unique artifacts in wood, stone and copper from Ghana, Kenya, Nigeria and Zimbabwe can be sought at African Trophies.

Trinidad has a vivacious fashion industry that remains the envy of the Caribbean, with a number of designers and fashion houses, many internationally recognised, like Claudia Pegus, Heather Jones, Meiling, Millhouse, Radical Designs and The Cloth. Caribbean flare is not limited to beach and trendy wear.

Every occasion and season is a reason to dress up or down in Trinidad, beginning with fun and trendy Carnival early in the year, all the way through to glitzy Christmas. Shoppers can rest assured that the latest styles sporting both local and foreign labels will tempt from every display window.

44

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Shopping The constraints of present day travelling make jewellry an excellent idea as a non-cumbersome gift or merely for one’s own private collection. Excellent workmanship of the creative use of natural materials, gemstones, copper and beads, sterling silver from South America and Indonesia and precious gold, provide a wide choice of styles and prices.

Recharge the shopping fervour by pampering your body and relaxing your mind at ‘spas’ or aesthetician services available throughout the country. Shoppers can also take advantage of the convenient hours of service (some open 24 hours) of pharmacies/ drug stores stocked with essential an d pr e s c r ib e d m e dic at i o n s , to ile t r ie s an d b e au t y pr o duc t s .

SuperPharm has seven convenient locations nationwide, which are open on Sundays and holidays.

A literary reawakening and boom in magazine publishing has resulted in the publication of some stunning coffeetable books primarily on Trinidad’s natural history, culture and architecture - one, if not the best purchase to consider. A cache of current international bestsellers, children’s books, publications on craft and hobbies and the ever-increasing work of Caribbean writers adorns the shelves of reputable bookshops in every mall and throughout the towns.

Souvenir shops such as Bambu Gift Shop ( We s t Mall ) and Rainy Days (Ellerslie Plaza) can be found in the malls and plazas, in the towns and at several locations at Piarco International Airport. Trinidad and Tobago flags, pottery, ornaments, kitchenware and knickknacks proudly bear the

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

45

Shopping national colours of red, white and black. Clothes portraying local scenes and Trini humour, figurines of limbo dancers, carnival masqueraders and calypso singers make fun gifts and memoirs. Uncover a wide range of the famous s te e l p an s an d acce s s o r ie s a v ail a b l e at T h e S e l e c t i o n H o u s e in downtown Port of Spain or Panland Trinidad & Tobago Limited, proudly supplying commercial and retail customers around the globe.

Explore the wealth of Trinidad and Tobago’s artistic talent as illustrated in its sculpture, paintings, prints and use of wrought iron and atypical materials. Art galleries and framing businesses are located at the malls, plazas and particularly the environs of the Woodbrook and St. Clair districts. Supplies can also be purchased at Da Vinci’s Framing & Art Materials Limited in Trincity Mall and Caribbean Contemporary Arts off the Eastern Main Road. Keep an eye out for advertisements promoting exhibitions by local artists.

Consider an edible gift or perhaps cultivate your own ‘sweet hand’ (a local term for a good cook) with the profusion of local condiments and preserves available at supermarkets and airports. Choose from pepper sauces and jellies, preserved local fruit or chutney made with tamarind, mango or kuchela, authentic spices and herbs. Sample some fine local coffee blended by the Hong Wing family since 1921, available at supermarkets, factory outlets and airport stores or indulge in a decadent creation of exquisite chocolate delicacies produced by local chocolatiers using the very best of Trinidad’s own superb cocoa beans.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

47

Shopping Neither health nor gastronomic pleasures need be neglected while spending time in Trinidad. The Natural Store at Shoppes of Maraval and Health Food Specialist Limited in Cocoyea Village, San Fernando are but two of the many health food stores established to meet the rising demand for gluten-free and specialty foods. Gourmet shop Peppercorns in Ellerslie Plaza and Westmall import a weekly supply of fresh fruit and vegetables among other delicacies, as does Malabar Farms with stocks of top quality steak and meats, seafood, cheeses, deli meats and specialty platters, imported breads and gift baskets on order.

Trinidad and Tobago offers a wide range of alcoholic beverages, spirits, wines and specialty drinks. Prepare to be captivated by our fine local rums and world-renowned Angostura aromatic bitters. Selections can be found in the beverage section of the supermarkets and smaller groceries and at excellent duty-free prices at the airport.

Allow yourself to be wooed by the country’s vibrant local flora and fauna. Pick from the bounty of local flowers cascading off roadside vans or employ the services of the many florists’ businesses offering bouquets or arrangements of both local and imported blossoms. Call on Flowerline in Chaguanas or La Tropicale in Port of Spain, or visit Decorators Dream in Westmall for silk flowers, trees, vines, pots and decorations.

Trinidad also offers extensive duty-free shopping to

48

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

the travelling public with prices that are among the most reasonable in the region. At Piarco International Airport, both inbound and outbound passengers are entitled to take advantage of the duty-free shopping on the ground floor level (after exiting immigration) as well as the first floor level shops (accessible via the stairs or escalator). Precious gold and silver jewellry and Swarovski crystals sparkle and wink from shelves and showcases. Sweet tobacco and alluring perfumes, designer eyewear by Channel, Prada, Oakley, Maui Jim and Ray Ban, leather goods, books and local T-shirts and craft, cosmetics, chocolates and confectionery are some of the many purchases to be made. Why not browse the selection of CDs and music or opt for a treat of champagne, port, aged Caribbean rum, scotch or other spirits? All purchases made by departing passengers are conveniently delivered to the designated aircraft with a mandatory close off point for transactions of one hour pre departure time.

Not to be neglected is the seafaring commuter. Nestled amongst the yachts at Crews Inn, Chaguaramas, Apadocas provides ocean-bound craft departing the country with dutyfree alcohol and cigarettes or you can simply choose from the duty-paid selection.

So feel free to experience the appeal of the shopping mecca that is Trinidad. Keep your holiday memories alive by savouring a surprising treasure chest of purchases, brought to life by its country’s melting pot of people.

It’s a

Trin i Thing

Island Wine & Dine

by Desiree Seebaran

T&T is already well known for our star-quality beers, bitters and rums. But wine is less like alcohol and more like a food. And if you know T&T, you know that Trinis have very varied food tastes. Our wine tastes are equally diverse and cosmopolitan, which is why the local demand for wine has increased steadily within recent years.

Wine now features heavily in local night life. From wine bars to wholesale distributors where you can get wines for house parties to restaurants who offer vintage by the glass on that girls’ night out, you can get great world-class wines at reasonable prices about anywhere in T&T. You just have to know where to look.

Types of wine Australian, Californian and Chilean wines are very popular in T&T; they’re relatively good quality and on the cheaper side, suitable for house parties, small limes and mixing homemade wine cocktails. But that doesn’t mean that you can’t get quality European and South American wines. From Spain to Portugal to France or Argentina, high quality wines and champagnes are also very easy to find. You’ll even discover a few South African and New Zealand brands!

Wholesale and retail Local large-chain super-markets and wholesale food distributors stock large varieties of wines and spirits. Some may even have separate ‘cellars’: cool rooms where the wines are stored.

Wholesale distributors usually have a retail store where customers can get wines by the bottle or by the case. Taking several bottles of your favourite wine with you to that weekend beach house party may be easier than you think! Call, visit their websites or their Facebook pages for an idea of which brands they carry.

Wine tastings Wine bars are cropping up all over Port of Spain these days, offering not only choice wines but wine cocktails like sangrias and mimosas. Some places are as well known for their wine cocktail recipes as for their extensive wine lists! Wine tastings are also popular, especially for wholesale and retail distributor shops. For example, every Friday Vintage Imports opens a couple of bottles for shoppers to sample different wine varieties as they peruse the stocks. If you’re lucky, wine brand representatives may be in town to hold tastings and wine education sessions. Feel free to ask about scheduled tastings in any wine bar or store.

Wine cocktails Trinis always tend to put their own stamp on international cuisine and it’s the same with wine. Love mimosas? You’re likely to find them made with portugal* juice in T&T rather than orange juice. Local fruits like watermelon, portugals or pommeracs* help make great red or white sangrias. And there’s even a drink called Marguerite’s Julinnie, a bellini made with mango pulp instead of peach. It was created by Marguerite Gordon, a widely read newspaper columnist who writes on etiquette and entertaining. portugal* - a type of clementine or Mandarin orange pommerac* - also known as Otaheite apple

Marguerite’s Julinnie Peel and slice six to eight Julie (preferably) mangoes then blend them with a little water. It should not be thick. One can also cut the Julie mangoes in half, discard the seeds and then use a juicer to blend the pulp.

Chill your dry champagne (or a dry sparkling white wine) and pour in the mango pulp (about a quarter) into an iced jug and fill the rest of your jug with your champagne or white wine. Stir well and place in your freezer for a very short time.

Never add ice !

Pour into your iced champagne glasses. Do not garnish. Serve with a special breakfast or brunch. Cheers!

Wine with local foods

Looking to pair wines with local fare? Here are some tips, courtesy Vintage Imports: • A slightly sweet German riesling would be a good match for spicy or highly flavoured Chinese and Indian dishes like curried meats (goat, chicken, pork) and curried chickpeas.

• Traditional Trini Christmas ham goes well with light red wines like a Burgundy pinot noir or Cotes du Rhone.

• Barbeque is quite popular in both Trinidad and Tobago, and a full bodied Chilean cabernet sauvignon or an Argentinean Malbec can bring out the robust flavours in barbequed beef.

• The ubiquitous chicken pelau and coleslaw is complemented perfectly by a buttery Californian chardonnay.

• And for a good callaloo and coo coo, try pairing with a light, crisp pinot grigio!

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

49

Peter Sheppard

art & craft

by Greta M. Joachim

In Trinidad, it seems as though there is no ‘season’ for art anymore. Exhibitions are happening in well-known galleries every month of the year.

The Singh brothers, Parmanan and Prabhu, had a joint exhibition at Softbox Studios in Woodbrook in October 2011, featuring representational work that highlights the East Indian journey from immigration to present day. The stone, concrete and wood sculptures of Keith Swanston held court at 101 Art Gallery at the Art Society of Trinidad and Tobago headquarters in Federation Park in a November exhibition. And new spaces have opened up. Alice Yard in Woodbrook and De Gallery in Newtown are two areas that embrace more contemporary art forms like installation and performance art.

For those artists who choose not to be represented by galleries, technology has bridged that gap. Artists can now personally showcase their work on Facebook and Twitter and post videos of their works in progress on YouTube. The Trinidadian artist is now ‘exhibiting’ his work to the world.

The Art Society of Trinidad and Tobago has re-awakened and actively involving its artists and the public in dialogue. The society recently hosted a workshop on art appreciation which sought to educate the media on how to talk and write about art. Exhibitions at the Society’s headquarters have now introduced juried submissions, which challenge the artist to produce quality work.

Regular craft fairs like Bits and Pieces and Upmarket in Woodbrook have been revived and serve as another avenue for artists to market their work. Both fairs offer interesting finds like paintings, photographs, jewellery, ceramics, flower arrangements and even millinery.

Carnival is T&T’s biggest forum for artistic expression, and there is a renaissance of home-grown and manufactured mas creeping back into the mainstream. Cat in Bag Productions has produced three small mas bands since 2009, and its popular Cobo Town Mas in 2010 even found its way into a graduate lecture

by Robin Balliger at the San Francisco Art Institute in 2011.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

51

Art & Craft

Karyn Olivier

Fashion designer Robert Anthony Young of The Cloth Caribbean put out his first Carnival band in 2011, entitled A Vulgar Fraction: Coalition, along with Lupe Leonard. This year, Young’s Vulgar Fraction will be entitled FACE. And other artists like Darren Cheewah are joining in. Chee Wah has created a mas camp called Strictly Alternative Mas and is presenting a sailor mas-themed band called ‘X’ in 2012.

For more information on art in T&T, please call the Art Society of Trinidad and Tobago (ASTT) at (868) 622-9827, e-mail admin@ artsocietytt.org or visit artsocietytt.org.

The main colours for the Vulgar Fraction 2011 band were khaki, white, black and gold, and masqueraders were asked to include a touch of red in any form. The costumes were also embellished with fragile white paper doilies, which were a commentary on the recently installed coalition government.

The identity of Vulgar Fraction masqueraders is kept secret. This element of mystery provides a sense of freedom to the mas player. The effect was ghostly, whimsical, vaguely Bedouin, and definitely eye-catching.

Kaja Moses Tobagonian Kaja Moses has an instinctive passion for creativity. The sight of a blank canvas invokes an inner sense of urgency together with a yearning to use a kaleidoscope of colors to depict our environment.

She has discovered that art, her most treasured pastime, has become a career path and as such she embraces the journey it presents. Moses effortlessly interacts with her work and spends countless hours observing the fauna and flora of Tobago. The genuineness and zeal to preserve our environs is quite evident in her skilfully crafted pieces, developed mainly from natural materials. Her appreciation for intricate threedimensional designs attracts much attention and is often branded by experts as novelty pieces. #47 Darrel Spring Road Scarborough, Tobago W.I. Tel: (868) 317-0337 E-mail: daice2011@hotmail.com

52

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Jacqueline Guzman

Jacqueline Guzman is an artist living and working in Trinidad. As a child, she found herself appreciating the artistic form and the beauty in everything around her. To this day she continues to have a keen interest and passion for art.

She paints primarily in acrylic and her art is impressionist in its style. She likes to create large pieces that are local in content and vibrant in color. This combination makes her pieces very outstanding and stunning.

Guzman’s work can be found at Horizon’s Art Gallery, Port of Spain and in public and private collections both locally and abroad.

Tel: (868) 628-0871, 755-3656 E-mail: aquatic@tstt.net.tt

Adelle Bernadette

Adelle Bernadette’s paintings are described as vibrantly alive and infused with divine presence. For her, the act of painting is highly intuitive and spiritual, similar to meditation. A Canadian native, this self-taught International artist is deeply inspired by the natural beauty of the land and people of Trinidad and Tobago.

Moved by her visits to South India, she creates India-inspired paintings, which carry a particular nostalgia for many Trinidadians.

Adelle Bernadette is represented by Horizons Gallery, St. James, Trinidad.

E-mail: adelle@adellebernadette.com www.AdelleBernadette.com Find us on Facebook; search ‘Adelle Bernadette Fine Art’

Art & Craft Jason Nedd

Tobago-born artist, Jason Nedd, continues to excel in his love and passion for drawing and painting. He started painting at an early age. Jason continued drawing at the Roxborough Composite School where he won an award from the Tobago Art Committee for outstanding achievements in Art. Jason has been holding exhibitions in Tobago and also Trinidad, which has led him to receive many commissions, both national and international. At present, he continues to aggressively pursue his enthusiasm for drawing and painting at L’Anse Fourmi in Tobago.

L’Anse Fourmi, Tobago, W.I. Mobile: (868) 680-0469 E-mail: jneddminiartgallery@yahoo.com

On Location Art Galleries

• Original Art • Prints • Framing • Exhibitions • Art design consulting • Valuations We harness over 30 years of experience in Italy, the United Kingdom, Canada and Trinidad to provide premium picture framing, local art works and prints to Trinidad and Tobago. We have a wide variety of artwork by both established and top emerging artists. Two convenient locations; give us a call or come in today!

42 De Verteuil St, Woodbrook. Tel: (868) 622-3403 205 The Falls at West Mall. Tel: (868) 633-3404 E-mail: onlocationartgalleries@gmail.com www.facebook.com/onlocationartgalleries

De Gallery of Visual Arts

Exquisite works by creative artists of Trinidad and Tobago. We do Carnival designs, stage designs, commission painting and exhibitions.

De Gallery of Visual Arts #77 Woodford Street Newtown Port of Spain Junya Craigwell, Artists Curator Tel: (868) 628-3363 / 750-5097 E-mail: degalleryltd@gmail.com

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

53

Tomley Roberts Tomley Roberts, master of texture and colour, continues to demonstrate his skillfulness, flair and fascination with art as no pictorial view escapes his gifted fingers.

The theme ‘She Becomes More Beautiful’, not only describes the geographical structure of Tobago but it also depicts the people and their way of life. Roberts has developed a passion to communicate the expressive nature of children which can be translated from his vibrantly coloured pieces.

These portraits transcend the not-so-obvious narrative of family life as silent realities are given a voice.

The average viewer will naturally be drawn to his work but the trained eye will be able to ascertain the subtle yet powerful intricacies that he employs in his creations. His zeal to adequately showcase the rich culture of his people is evidently absorbed by his students at the Speyside High School as they enjoy hosting various art programs. Roberts’ interest to preserve the field of art has motivated him to lead the advancement of this industry on the island; at present, he is the President of the Tobago Visual Arts Association.

#48 Mt Pleasant Local Road, Mount Pleasant Tobago, WI E-mail: yelmot@hotmail.com tomley.roberts@gmail.com

54

Meet

a Trin i

Artist LeRoy Clarke

by Ruth Osman LeRoy Clarke, one of Trinidad and Tobago’s most prolific and respected artists, has dedicated his life to finding himself.

The result is a body of work – paintings, drawings, and text – that strikes straight at the heart of its audience. Clarke’s use of African motifs and local folklore sets him apart in Trinidad and Tobago’s cultural landscape. Clarke, 72, is one of only two artists to receive the title of Master Artist from the National Museum and Art Gallery of Trinidad and Tobago; he was also awarded a Staff of Eldership and Chieftancy Title from the Orisha Community. Here, Clarke speaks about his life and his art.

The beginning. I’m proud of the fact that I’m a Scorpio.

I love very profoundly; I weep intensely. I’d like to believe that I’m a universal thinker, a universal spirit. But I’m given to saving my house. So being this artist, first and foremost, I’m an African. And wherever there are Africans, that’s my house. This doesn’t mean that I don’t appreciate the universe of houses. I just want to fix back mine!

56

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Deciding to be an artist. Coming out of Labour of Love (1966), my first One Man exhibition, I stood in my shoes and wondered what next! At that time, I had not made up my mind that I would be an artist.

In 1967, I went to New York because I knew that the best of the world would be there. And by 1969, I was ready to start the journey officially. I had read Frantz Fanon, for instance (he impressed me), Aimé Césaire and Federico García Lorca. I ventured into the works of the Mexican painters, as well as African writers and artists.

On the eve of 1970, lifting my wife up in the air, I declared that for the rest of my life, I was going to write and paint.

Why work in Trinidad? I’m most comfortable in Trinidad. Like the old people used to say, my ‘navel string’* bury here. I was born here and I’m going as far down into this place to find the whole world.

As I get older I don’t have the need to travel anymore. People from all over the world come here and I smile: “Look at that. I pulled you here!”

His influence. I want to shift the concept a bit from simply seeing art as painting and singing and writing. I want to think of it as the medium by which we engage ourselves authentically. I’m often asked, for whom do I paint or write? Of late, I say, “I’m painting for myself.” But this self I’m painting for: what does it mean? I’m assuming a whole people. Isn’t that the ultimate goal of the artist? Speaking on behalf of a people?

Current work. I’m working on Eye Haiti: Cries Everywhere, which is a series of 51 paintings born out of a piece that I started in the 1970s as part of the Douens series.

A few months ago I decided to complete it as a tribute to what happened in Haiti. It’s a 10’ x 5’ canvas but the painting itself shifted focus from just Haiti to the crises in Japan, and Gabon, and Somalia. It started to take on a question of what was happening with humanity.

Then it looked at me and asked me: “When you going to give me children?” So it has inspired a whole series.

I’d like people to stand around them [my paintings] long enough to gain something. But whenever opportunity gives them the space and time, I find that people leave with questions. You can’t come here, for instance, and look at Eye Haiti: Cries Everywhere and not have questions. The biggest joy is to have children, who are more innocent than we are, come before the painting and identify elements. “Look, look at that!” Our world has lost the exclamation “Look!”

The inevitable end. Yes, I am dealing with my mortality.

I’m trying to share what I have with some promising ones.

I don’t hold back. I think that at the end of it all, you will know that LeRoy Clarke was here ... and will be here. Like my granddaughter prophesied: “Grandpa, when you die, you’re not going to be dead, you know. People going to be saying: (pointing to his paintings) LeRoy Clarke, LeRoy Clarke. LeRoy Clarke!” navel string* - umbilical cord

Meet Photographer and digital artist Laura Ferreira

a Trin i

by Desiree Seebaran

Her critics say that she’s not a ‘real’ photographer.

“People choose to be ignorant of the 1fact that I do photography AND digital art,” Laura Ferreira wrote in an email interview. “I can say it a million times but they refuse to listen. And so, I care not.”

Her fan base is now global. She’s been published in Trini magazines like Scorch, and international mags like Digital Camera and PSD Photoshop. She even did a shot for the 2011 Halloween campaign of herbal liquor Jägermeister. Ferreira has photographed friends for personal conceptual shoots as well as commercial work. Local celebrities like Kes the Band and internationally known faces like Animal Planet’s Pete Bethune of Whale Wars have also stood in front of her lenses. This is huge success; especially for a 26-yearold with a five-year-old son who started teaching herself photography during her pregnancy. To her, her success is a Trinidadian triumph.

“Many people who have seen my work didn’t know where Trinidad was. They have seen how diverse we are, and that we don’t live in giant coconuts. I also believe I am one of the few visual artists in Trinidad with a global internet following, and as it keeps growing, more and more people will see the work coming out of Trinidad.” If you look at her work, you understand why everyone is raving over Ferreira. Her digitally enhanced photos are lush with colour and texture, richly emotive and often sensual. She has chosen many natural settings for her work; places that are not easy to get to and with interesting stories, she said.

The “amazing formation and emerald colours” at Gasparee Caves conjured up ideas of a mysterious, ethereal kingdom for local designer Meiling’s personal fashion set. Weatherworn, wiry Bethune looked equally at home in the spiritual atmosphere of Chaguaramas’ Bamboo Cathedral as he did sitting on a gritty boulder at Macueripe Beaches for Ferreira’s shoot. Ferreira met Bethune that morning and finished the shoot in two hours.

“All the people I work with know the ‘Laura is very excited about this shoot’ face, which is me staring around the location with a grin, sputtering about fresh ideas, then maybe some skipping involved,” Ferreira joked. “All the ideas came to me on the drive there or when we reached the location.

It’s just a matter of blocking out all people and sound for a moment, and focusing on the best composition.” She’s very good at tapping into what’s unique about her subject and their surroundings with her camera and enhancing that on her computer. And she’s extremely in tune with how her Trini heritage makes her work different from other photographers.

“I think the colourful tones in my work come from growing up in the Caribbean. Our skies and land aren’t dull, our people aren’t dull, and our Carnival definitely isn’t drab,” Ferreira mused. She comes from a family or artists; according

Laura Ferreira

A shot for local fashion designer Meiling. Photo by Laura Ferreira

to her, there are definite similarities between her personal work, her mother’s attention to detail and sister’s use of colour.

Said her sister Rebecca Foster of Ferreira, “She has that eye and that talent that she was just born with.”

Ferreira has had two exhibitions of her work (both paintings and photography) in Trinidad and Tobago in 2003 and in 2009. Her website and Facebook page are both frequently updated; she’s quite a prolific artist, always popping up with a new project, blogging about shoots and her editing process in Adobe Photoshop CS5. She said that the need to create keeps nudging her forward, into greater things. “I have no set expectations for what my work will become. I only hope it remains exciting.”

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

57

Christopher Anderson

ecotourism in Trinidad and Tobago

by Andy Whitwell

The rainy season is the perfect time to see the rainforest, and understand the intimate relationship between this ecosystem and rainfall. Epiphytes drip water from their aerial reservoirs; descending runnels glimmer on the moss-lined trunks. And orchids wave hazily in the mists of the cloud forest.

Still, you don’t want a day hike to become an impromptu overnight camp because a river is in flood.

However, the northern end of the Maracas Valley provides excellent all weather hiking as there are no large rivers to cross, and the tracks are well established. And even in a harsh dry season, the moisture laden winds rising off the Caribbean Sea or drifting westwards from the Atlantic produce ethereal tendrils of mist that weave through the upper valleys, bathing the high ridges and montane forest with a film of fine droplets that sparkle, iridescent in the morning sun.

One of the most interesting trails in Trinidad begins and ends in the small village of Loango in the Maracas Valley. Although the walk can take three hours if you are very fit and stop for nothing, it typically takes six to seven hours for most people. So leave an entire day for a really enjoyable and rewarding experience, and start hiking by 9 a.m. at the latest.

The experience begins with an interesting drive through the old Spanish Capital of St. Joseph and up

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

59

Ecotourism

Stephen Broadbridge

the Maracas St. Joseph Valley, past historic St. Michael’s Church, to Loango. You can park in the paved area by the small sports field, adjacent to the old signpost indicating ‘Las Cuevas Road’.

Loango itself is a ribbon of houses perched alongside the road that climbs steeply for some 500 metres and merges with the track that stretches up to the heights of Cerro de las Cuevas y Maracas.

The route follows the old Spanish donkey trail which leads to Las Cuevas, passing through pristine rainforest to the crest of the Maracas Las Cuevas ridge. The trail then turns east along the side of the ridge, through spectacular montane forest to the saddle below the high cliffs of El Tucuche, Trinidad’s second highest mountain.

The loop back to Loango follows along a more recent footpath through abandoned cocoa and coffee plantations alive with an abundance of bird life.

For those seeking a more challenging walk, there is an alternative to the upper contour benching of the old donkey trail, leading to the saddle below the steep western slopes of El Tucuche. A narrow hunter’s trail follows the crest of the Maracas Las Cuevas ridge, the rugged topography rising and falling, twisting and curling amongst the gnarled, wind-stunted trees that cling precariously to the rim of the escarpment. In places the path is barely wider than your hips, precipitously plunging down hundreds of feet on either side.

Like much of the central part of the Northern Range, this area offers a hike in true primary tropical montane forest, apart from the lower parts, formerly cocoa, coffee and tonka-bean estates, which are now merged with secondary forest. Most visible are the changes of plant and bird life with changing altitude. The tree-ferns, wild anthuriums, begonias and ground bromeliads are worth the trip alone. The misty, ever-wet conditions at the highest altitudes create an unforgettable environment, and on clear days the view from various points, both to the north coast and south down the

60

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Ecotourism Maracas St. Joseph Valley to the Caroni Plains, is magnificent.

This walk takes you somewhere very rare; a natural environment.

Open your heart, your mind and your senses. See the beauty that surrounds you, hear the diversity that is a part of it, smell the life cycling through it, and understand that we are just a part of a far greater whole.

ROUTE HIGHLIGHTS Historical The old Spanish bridle path to Las Cuevas; St. Michael’s R.C. Church in Maracas; Sister Beatrice’s site; old plantation.

Fauna Morpho butterflies; mountain crabs; plica plica lizard; matte (tegu); snakes (if you move quietly and are lucky); humming birds; great antshrike; white-bearded manakin; bell bird; jacamar; trogon; agouti; howler monkeys have been heard in the area.

Flora Seasonal evergreen forest leading to excellent lower montane forest and montane forest on the main ridge; mountain guatecare, mountain geraton, Podocarpus (only indigenous tropical conifer), incense, gommier (unusually large specimens), bois olivier, iron wood, Acoma, purple heart, indigenous bamboo in high elevations, epiphytic bromeliads with massive flowering spikes, ground bromeliads with beautiful red inflorescences, orchids, wild begonia, wild anthuriums, tree ferns, pendulous epiphytic mosses, abundant ferns, liverworts in permanently wet areas.

Geographical Features Knife-edge ridges, saddles, escarpment, folding and uplift; in places ground flow (downhill subsurface movement of water) can be witnessed from the upper edge of the benching. After rain, Maracas waterfall can be seen from the main road near the Maracas community centre.

The Trails of Trinidad Trinidad is criss-crossed by 18th and 19th century donkey trails and estate roads, many now passable only by mountain bike or on foot, reclaimed by verdant vegetation and the landslips of a hundred rainy seasons. A selection of those more commonly used by members of the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association and their guests are listed below.

Hikes to Waterfalls Petite Marianne/Avocat - easy (near Blanchisseuse) Rio Seco – easy to moderate (near Salybia) Paria - moderate (north coast) River Walks Marianne River Three Pools – easy (at Blanchisseuse) Covigne River – moderate (Chaguaramas) Guanapo Gorge – challenging Hikes to Caves Tamana Bat Caves – moderate (central Trinidad) Aripo Caves – challenging (Northern Range) Mountain trails El Tucuche – challenging (Northern Range) El Cerro del Aripo – moderate to challenging (Northern Range) Boat and kayak trips Down the Islands (north-west) Caroni Wetlands (west) Nariva Wetlands (east coast) Mountain bike rides Tucker Valley – on road, off road and single track, easy to technical (Chaguaramas) Little Coora Road and environs – moderate (central Trinidad) Brasso Seco and environs – moderate to technical (Northern Range)

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

61

experience

The Trinidad

Oprah Francis

Harris Promenade and High Street A five-minute drive from the Water Taxi’s off-loading bay, Harris Promenade is at the heart of San Fernando. Named in honour of the late Lord George Harris, the thirteenth British Governor of Trinidad (1845–1854), Harris Promenade is considered one of the most culturally rich sites of the city. It is bounded by the San Fernando City Hall, Magistrates Court, Supreme Court, General Hospital, Police Station, as well as several churches and schools.

Some of its historical gems include the monuments of Mahatma Gandhi and Marcus Garvey, and the famous ‘last train’ engine – the last train to run in Trinidad.

High Street runs parallel to Harris Promenade, and it’s the main shopping district in San Fernando, providing a delightful selection of retail outlets, restaurants, dining areas and banks.

The NIDCO Water Taxi

A Trip to San Fernando Taking a tour of Trinidad’s south city is easier than you think

by Oprah Francis If you’re staying in Port of Spain and want to take a trip down to Trinidad’s other big city, there’s an alternative that is certainly less stressful than getting stuck in traffic. The first of its kind in the budding twin isle, the National Infrastructure Development Company Limited (NIDCO) Water Taxi service provides direct transportation between Port of Spain and San Fernando on one of four luxury liners for the low cost of TT$15.00. Seating some 405 passengers comfortably in each trip, this efficient service provides eight daily sailings between the two cities, leaving San Fernando at 7 a.m. each morning with its first departure and from Port of Spain at 5:45 p.m. with its last. One of the most impressive offerings of this service is its shuttle service (for passengers only) that runs throughout downtown Port of Spain, all the way around the Queen’s Park Savannah. Free, secured parking is also available at both terminals but be sure to arrive early as the facilities run on a ‘first come first serve’ basis.

Impeccable service begins with the warm and hospitable staff at each hub, available to provide any information, updates and assistance needed to passengers. First aid and services for the differently-abled are available both in the terminal’s waiting area and on deck. Cosy seating amid spacious isles are provided on both the upper and lower deck of the vessel’s enclosed passenger cabin. The entire taxi is fully air-conditioned with bathroom facilities located at the back.

During the first five minutes of sailing, passengers view instructional safety videos, but it’s easy to get distracted by the stunning ocean view. From the five-star Hyatt Regency Hotel Waterfront to the imposing Point Lisas Industrial Estate along the southern coastline, the Water Taxi certainly provides a pleasant and convenient alternative to land transport.

62

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

San Fernando Hill A quaint haven for recreation and reflection, the San Fernando Hill is one of southern Trinidad’s most coveted landmarks to date.

It resides in the centre of San Fernando where it is overseen by the Forestry Division. Visitors can take stunning photography during the bird watching season when several breeds of hawks and native birds take flight around the hill, or explore the hill’s footpaths and nature trails where a wide array of rare and exotic orchids can be found. Picnic tables, open lawn areas, playground facilities and café and bathroom amenities are also conveniently located for the enjoyment of guests. At the hill’s top, eager seekers will be treated to an almost 360° panoramic view of the south and central ranges.

The La Brea Pitch Lake A forty-minute drive south of San Fernando, the world famous Pitch Lake of La Brea Lake is one of Trinidad’s foremost tourist attractions with some 20,000 visitors a year. Originally called ‘Piche’ by the indigenous Amerindians, and later ‘Tierra de Brea’ (the Land of Pitch) by the Spaniards, it covers approximately 100 acres of land and is 250 feet deep. Uniformed security officers at the main entrance usually direct visitors to the information office to make arrangements for tours. From its warm sulphur pools to the bountiful array of flora that line the outskirts, a day out on the lake unearths a vast world exploration. Hummingbirds, kingfishers and scarlet ibises are there in their numbers, making the lake an absolute paradise for bird watchers while the picturesque water roses and nymph lilies lace over its swamped lands. The lake’s museum adds the final touch to the facility, featuring a wealth of information and displays on the lake’s history.

Wildfowl Trust Nestled in a quaint forested area of the Petrotrin estate is the Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust, a secluded wetland habitat where visitors can enjoy guided educational tours, bird-watching, photography, interpretive nature trails, or just simply relax!

Established in 1966, the Trust is the world’s second oldest waterfowl research and education centre, and only wild life nature reserve located in an oil refinery. It is famous for featuring over 86 species of waterfowl, wading birds and songbirds. Trails, pathways and a boardwalk (specially tailored for the physically disabled) encircle the Trust’s lakes and waterfall, allowing guests to freely roam and explore the facility’s many natural wonders. Its Learning Centre provides visitors with information on living organisms and their habitats, and also features a unique mollusk collection and a small, but comprehensive Amerindian museum. At Petrea Place, the Trust’s nature retreat guest house, tourists can enjoy lunch, tea and dinner, or have a refreshing overnight.

Many thanks to the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association for sponsoring this Sand Fernando Tour.

It’s a

Trin i Thing

Patois

by Paul Hadden “Patois - It is sparkling with humour, masterly for sarcasm and ridicule, magnificent for abuse...”J.H Collens ‘A Guide To Trinidad. A Handbook for the use of Tourists and Visitors’ 1888 If it’s one thing that we Trinis like to do, it’s talk. And while we speak and write English fluently, our casual day to day conversations normally take place not in the ‘Queen’s English’ but in our own colourful language. For visitors, eavesdropping on a Trini engaging in ole talk can be quite a strange experience where one may have the peculiar sensation of understanding the words being said, but not understanding the meaning.

Things might get even more disorienting if you head to the villages of Paramin and Blanchisseuse, nestled in the stunningly beautiful hills of the Northern Range. There, Trinidadians speak the mellifluous Patois language, a language with its vocabulary rooted in 18th century regional French, moulded by various West African languages, and peppered with words from Spanish and Amerindian languages. While these Patois speakers are now in the linguistic minority throughout Trinidad, things weren’t always that way. According to Trinidadian historian L.O. Inniss, Patois was once “the almost universal language and no one could get on without knowing it.”

But how exactly did the residents of an island once ruled by Spain and then ceded to the British come to speak French-based Creole? Vini konpè, kité mwen di’w listwa-a - Come friend, let me give you the story.

Even though the island was colonised by the Spanish since the early 16th century, Trinidad, for various reasons, was never fully developed. Near the end of the 18th century, the island had only a few thousand inhabitants. In an effort to foster the colony’s

progress, the Spanish established the historic ‘Cédula de Población’; an official immigration incentive which invited certain allies of Spain to settle in Trinidad, luring them with promises of land and enticing tax rebates. This Cédula led to an influx of French planters, who came to the island in droves with their slaves, and of free black people. All three groups came speaking patois or ‘Patwa’.

Patois was born out of contact between the enslaved Africans and the French plantation owners under the arduous and extreme conditions of slavery. But by the time it reached Trinidad, the beautiful Patois language had already developed its own grammar, taken on a pleasant melodious tone, and become what the 19th century Trinidadian poet Sylvester Devenish described as the “sweetest” language that he knew. The language would be eventually be documented by an ambitious young scholar called John Jacob Thomas in his Theory and Practice of Creole Grammar – one of the first studies of the French Creole language to be undertaken anywhere in the world.

Patois continues to play an important role in shaping the way that we Trinis speak, and if you hear a Trini talk about a zandoli (a lizard), a zaboca (an avocado), or complain that he is fed up of all the mauvay lang (gossip) and commess (confusion), you will be able to see traces of the rhythmic French Creole language that once dominated the island. Patois also lives on in the many sweet sounding words centered around our Carnival celebrations; Dimanche Gras (Fat Sunday; the calypso competition that takes place on Carnival Sunday); J’Ouvert (meaning daybreak; the mud mas played in the early morning on Carnival Monday); Dame Lorraine, Pierrot Grenade, Djab Molassi and ‘Moko Jumbie’ (all old time Carnival characters). Don’t be surprised if a Trinidadian ends their sentence with an emphatic French inspired ‘oui’: “Oh Lord, it making hot today, oui!”

If you do happen to stumble across a Patois speaker, be sure to ask them to teach you a proverb or two. These proverbs are known to be direct, picturesque and dripping with delightful Trinidadian humour; a great tool to add to your linguistic arsenal.

Douvan chyen sé misyé chyen, dèyé chyen se sal chyen.

In front of dog he is Mr. Dog, behind dog’s back he is dirty dog.

Pli makak ka monté pié-bwa, pli ou ka wè bonda li.

Higher monkey climb the tree, the more of its backside you see.

But Patois is not just a thing of the past; it is a living vibrant, language linking us together with several of our Caribbean neighbours including Martinique, Guadeloupe, Dominica, St. Lucia, Haiti, as well as small patois-speaking pockets in Venezuela.

There has recently been renewed interest in the language, sparked by buzzing online communities on Facebook and YouTube. They are all trying to encourage us to start learning the language and to say with confidence: “Alé annou palé Patwa!” – “Come on, let’s speak Patois!”

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

63

64

Christopher Anderson

beaches

By Christine Mahon

Bordered by the Caribbean Sea on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other, Trinidad’s splendid beaches remain unspoilt and within reach of avid surf seekers, sun worshippers and general beach enthusiasts.

The journey in itself can often be a breath-taking experience, particularly along the north coast road to the magnificent Maracas Beach or any of the picturesque villages and seaside spots in this relatively rural area. The rugged north-east coastline is truly a surfer’s paradise, blessed with waves throughout the year.

From November to April, ocean swells approaching from the north-east produce good surf breaks while May to September the waters are calm and idyllic, great for swimming.

Within easy reach of the capital, the well-developed north-west shoreline offers a variety of activities from offshore island exploration to watersports. ‘Down the islands’ – the offshore islands of the Trinidad’s western peninsular – are popular for fishing and boating, where a spectacular vision of lush hills embroidered with holiday homes meets deep blue sea.

On the south-west coast, there are some excellent beaches, perfect for relaxation after a visit to the extraordinary Pitch Lake and La Brea. Waters can sometimes appear muddy due to sediment from the Orinoco River.

Facing the Atlantic Ocean along the east coast, the sea floor is characterised by shifting sand and special care should be taken when bathing along this shoreline. Rip currents here are a common feature though a relatively inconspicous natural phenomenon. These currents are narrow streams of water that flow away from the beach and out towards deeper water. If you remain calm, you can escape them. Rip currents push you out to sea; they do not pull you down so it is best to go with the flow. Swim parallel to the beach until you are out of the current, then swim to shore using the waves to push you in. Nonswimmers should stay out of water that is higher than waist deep.

In Trinidad, lifeguards patrol most popular beaches during the weekends and public holidays. However, they do not patrol many of the more secluded beaches. Seek the services of professional tour guides for adventurous excursions.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

65

Maracas Bay

Maracas Bay is Trinidad’s most popular beach with access from Port of Spain via the scenic north coast. Facilities include car parks, changing rooms and vendors sell the popular “bake and shark” sandwiches, amongst other local fare. A fishing village and a hotel exist on the western end of the bay. Lifeguards are on duty from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. but extreme caution is recommended, especially from November to April. Rip tides and strong waves occur, so those with small children should be particularly careful. The beach is approximately 1.8 km long with finegrained, off-white sand.

Macqueripe

Follow the length of the Tucker Valley Road (off the main road in Chaguaramas) and encounter one of most unspoiled beaches in Trinidad. Uncontaminated by river activity, the water in this small bay is usually clear and calm, with the occasional chance of rough seas during November to April. Upon entering the water, you’ll find that the beach has a downward slope with the gradient increasing to make it surprisingly shallow further out. Facilities include a paved car park, picnic tables, benches, a children’s play area, changing rooms and toilet facilities.

66

Las Cuevas

Blanchisseuse Bay

Scotland Bay

Granville Beach

Along the north coast road lies the scenic Las Cuevas beach. Las Cuevas has 2.2 kilometres of fine gained off-white sand, bound at either end by ‘the caves’ for which it is named and the majestic El Tucuche rising in the background. Two small inns overlook the bay and snack bar; car park, picnicking and changing room facilities are available. Lifeguard services are generally provided from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and fresh fish is sold daily. And a backdrop of natural vegetation and a big, wide river make Las Cuevas a favourite of surfers, campers and ‘off-road’ drivers.

On the north-western tip of Trinidad in the Chaguaramas peninsular rests Scotland Bay. Primarily accessible only by boat, the U-shaped bay is very sheltered and an excellent location for boaters and campers, for swimming and snorkeling.

Being a rain shadow area, the water is clear and calm for the majority of the year.

Cliffs of rich vegetation lead to sand and shingle beaches, introducing one of the many gorgeous ‘down the islands’ settings.

Scotland Bay draws not only kayakers and snorkelers but a vast number of sailboats and cruisers which take full opportunity to moor inside this haven.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Blanchisseuse Bay is one of the Blanchisseuse village’s three main beaches.

The bay is located on the north coast, approximately 18 km east of Maracas Bay. Access is through the North Coast Road or the scenic Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. The beach is 1.4 km long with light-brown and medium-grained sand. It is characterised by plunging breakers and strong rip currents that can make swimming quite dangerous. Swimming at the shallow mouth of the Marianne River is safer while kayaking is also done up the river. Caution is recommended for both activities.

One of best camping locations in southern Trinidad, this moderately sloping beach has low to moderate energy waves that are approximately 15 centimetres in height.

The water is usually clear except after periods of heavy rainfall, with a half mile of fine brown sand to satisfy campers and swimmers alike. Although quite popular, this is one of the smaller Trinidad beaches where there are no lifeguards. A paved car park is provided for visitor convenience along with toilet facilities and a private beach facility. There are a few beach houses along the northern section of the beach, which are also available for rental.

Maracas Bay

Vessigny Beach

Vessigny Beach trims the edge of Vessigny village in south Trinidad, just three kilometres past Trinidad’s famous La Brea Pitch Lake. The water is generally cleaner during the dry season with calm seas and low waves. White sand has been brought in to enhance this beach’s natural dark brown sand. In addition to a car park and camp grounds, changing rooms, picnic tables and a snack bar open on weekends and during school holidays. Lifeguards stationed at the beach generally work from 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. This is a very popular beach and can be crowded on public holidays with beach parties and bus excursions.

Grande Riviere Bay

Grande Riviere has become internationally known as an important nesting ground for the leatherback turtle (Dermchelys coriacea). The turtle’s nesting season lasts from March to August. There are several hotels nearby. For more on turtle watching see page 73. The beach is approximately 1.2 km long, with coarse yellowish sand and usually clear water. Swimming is safest from May to October; waves are much rougher at other times. The river, a beautiful feature of the area, enters on to the eastern side of the beach.

Quinam Beach

Probably the most popular south coast beach, Quinam is approximately 1.6 kilometres long with waters good for swimming, although there are moderate currents along the beach. The sand is fine and brown, although it disappears during high tide. A favourite for weekend family outings, Quinam offers an opportunity to explore trails into the woods. A lifeguard station is posted at this site and a large car park directly faces the beach. A recreational park 150 metres before the beach provides an interpretative centre, huts, tables, benches and barbecue pits.

Camping and fishing are popular.

Sans Souci Bay

Sans Souci, together with Toco and Salybia Bays, is the surfers’ paradise in Trinidad.

The best surfing waves break during the months of November to April. Competitions are organised by the Surfing Association of T&T and locals welcome visiting surfers.

Sans Souci is approximately 300 metres long with medium grained, dark grey sand.

The water is clearer during the months of May to September with more ideal swimming conditions during this time.

Located along the Paria Main Road, this bay is some 7 km from the Toco Junction along the rugged north coastline and mountainous landscape.

Mayaro

Photo: Edison Boodoosingh

Many Trinidadians own holiday homes along the Cocos-Manzanilla-Mayaro stretch on the east coast of Trinidad. This beach strip is characterised by swaying coconut trees and Easter and the July-August vacation are popular times for visiting.

‘Chip chip’ (Donax striatus), a bivalve, is commonly found in the sand and chip chip cocktail is served by locals. June to August are the best times for swimming at Mayaro but surging breakers, tidal fluctuations and rip currents make swimming generally dangerous. The sand is fine-grained and light-brown in colour.

Salybia

Off the Toco main road on the north-east coast, the two indentations of Salybia Bay with its blue green water and a shore line of coconut and almond trees guarantees an attractive sight. An expanse of reef on the eastern section of this windswept beach filters the water making it a calm, clean swimming area at low tide and a surfers’ paradise at high tide. The western section of the beach does not have a reef and is deeper with weak easterly currents.

There is plenty of shade along the shore and although snack vendors abound in the vicinity, there are no facilities. Salybia is a popular camping location, with a beach resort located nearby.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

67

Meet

All Photos: Opra Francis

a Trin i

Saving Lives Two lifeguards talk about their rescuing work on Trinidad’s most popular beach Maracas Beach is not just a beach; it’s a cultural icon in Trinidad and Tobago.

Whether you are a tourist who keeps coming back or a local, you’ve probably had the pleasure of Philip Rodney visiting this popular place of sea, sand and sun. Maracas is a scenic forty-five minute drive from the capital city of Port of Spain and the beach attracts crowds all year round on weekends and during holiday seasons. This means that although Maracas Beach is generally safe for bathing, lifeguards are on duty daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. to ensure that no overenthusiastic swimmers get carried away, literally!

William Grimshaw and Phillip Rodney are two such rescuers who know precisely what it takes to save a life. These guys don’t have the problem of being cooped up in an office all day; they both love their jobs. Grimshaw is grateful that he can bask in the scenic beauty and endless array of activities at Maracas Beach, while Rodney likes the fact that his job keeps him fit and gives him access to go diving, which he thoroughly enjoys. But they take their work very seriously.

68

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Grimshaw is a 24-year-old recruit who has only been employed at Maracas for two years, but his naturally strong swimming ability and speed make up for his lack of longevity in the business. Because of his rapid response rate, his co-workers have dubbed him ‘Stone Man’, he said proudly. Thirty-nine-year-old Phillip Rodney has been a professional lifeguard for nineteen years and has saved 25 lives throughout his fruitful career. Despite the difference in their ages and experience, both men were drawn to this profession because they love to help people.

Grimshaw particularly likes it “… when people come and ask for information, especially when they don’t know how to swim.”

The lifeguards encourage bathers to increase their awareness of currents, tides and the different flags at Maracas Beach. Some of the most common questions are about the flags and what their colours represent.

“Yellow means safe and red means dangerous,” Rodney said. He advised beach-goers to pay attention to these flags and to listen to the lifeguards on duty at all times. Although the water often appears clear and calm, undercurrents and tides can be perilously strong, and neglecting them could be fatal.

While a heightened sense of awareness of one’s surroundings is important all year round while bathing at Maracas, it is absolutely essential during the Christmas season (December

Meet to February), the lifeguards agreed. The sea is exceptionally rough and the currents are notably stronger at this time of year. Once those months are over, the danger subsides and the Carnival, Easter and the July/August holidays promise mostly favorable conditions, Grimshaw said.

Luckily, these favorable conditions coincide with many public holidays and events, such as the Cross Harbour swim event at the end of the July/August holidays, which attracts a record number of crowds. Historically, Maracas Beach is significantly quieter on weekdays with the exception of the July/August vacation when the beach is consistently “packed” with both locals and visitors from around the globe, hoping to gain the full Trini experience. And the bake and shark sandwiches that Maracas Beach is famous for don’t hurt! In fact, Rodney believes that Maracas Beach has become an iconic part of Trinidadian culture because of the bake and shark vendors located on and near to the beach.

Both men have rescued many weak swimmers from difficulties in the water. But Rodney still remembers one incident fifteen years ago, when he rescued a drowning adult who had gone past the breakers in unusually rough water. To this day, it remains his most treasured rescue memory. “It feels good. Like you are doing your job,” he said.

Grimshaw agreed that there is nothing more rewarding than saving another person’s life. In fact, he respects all life, human and otherwise.

While he stood in the lifeguard lookout, a bystander told him about a sting ray in the water and he was not bothered. The sea is their home, he said, and they have a right to live an undisturbed, aquatic existence, just as humans do on earth.

Both lifeguards cautioned parents to keep a diligent eye on children during their stay at the beach. Unlike adults, children may not know how dangerous sting rays and jelly fish can be if disturbed and touched. So parents should not only watch their children attentively, but swim with them to guarantee their safety, Rodney advised, especially on crowded days when it is easy to get distracted by various other activities such as playing cards, liming and drinking. It’s also a way of bonding and building the relationship between parent and child, he added.

It’s easy to see that these guys, though laidback, echo truths that apply to life itself: protect what you know and love, respect what you don’t and when in doubt, always ask for help.

With reporting by Zoe Knaggs

a Trin i

William Grimshaw

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

69

70

St. Michael’s Church, Maracas Martin Farinha

by Desiree Seebaran

sights

The Temple in the Sea in Waterloo Village (located south-west of the borough of Chaguanas) is a testament to the religious devotion of one man and a sacred site for Hindus all over the world. Siewdass Sadhu, an Indian indentured labourer and a true devotee, built this duplicate of a Hindu temple literally in the sea.

His first attempt to build a temple on sugar cane land was torn down by the estate owners, and he spent 25 years painstakingly carrying buckets of dirt out into the ocean to build the mandir by himself, even as the sea itself constantly eroded his efforts. He died and never finished. In 1994, the Government of Trinidad and Tobago properly reclaimed the temple’s foundation and renovated the mandir to honour the 150th anniversary of Indian Arrival Day. It stands now like a spiritual oasis, almost floating atop the waters of the Gulf of Paria.

Opening hours for the grounds are from 8 a.m. to 12 noon. For the mandir, opening hours are from 8 a.m. to 12 noon, and by appointment.

For more information, call Pamela Gokool at (868) 636-5408 or e-mail pamels_3@hotmail.com.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

71

Sights The Cathedral is one of many buildings surrounding Woodford Square, which include City Hall, Hall of Justice, Greyfriars Presbyterian Church, the Red House, seat of Trinidad and Tobago’s Parliament the, Old Fire Station and the National Library on Abercromby Street.

Chaguaramas Base and the Chaguaramas Military & Aerospace Museum house interesting historical artifacts of wartime. On the compound of the Museum are four consecrated Memorials alongside military vehicles, vessels, artillery and aircraft. The indoor museum covers over 500 years of history.

Located in the Bocas del Dragón or Dragon’s Mouth are the five islands referred to as “Down the islands”: Chacachacare, Huevos, Gasparillo (or Centipede Island), Monos and Gaspar Grande (or Gasparee).

Many locals have holiday homes on Monos and Gasparee, within easy access by boat from Chaguaramas. Scotland Bay is also very popular with locals on weekends.

Stephen Broadbridge

Northern Sights

Western Sights The Magnificent Seven, located on the western side of the Queen’s Park Savannah, are seven renowned architectural masterpieces. The President’s House, Botanical Gardens and Emperor Valley Zoo are on the northern end of the Savannah. The beautifully manicured gardens provide wonderful photo opportunities and a peaceful interlude for relaxing. The National Museum, located at the south-eastern corner of the Savannah, opposite Memorial Square, showcases historical exhibits and an annual Carnival programme. The Story of the City of Port

72

of Spain is a permanent exhibit focusing on the history of the capital. It is located at Fort San Andres on South Quay, opposite City Gate.

Take a stroll along the Brian Lara Promenade where you can enjoy an icecold beer from the many bars that line the streets. The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception towers over the city with its nineteenth century stained glass windows.

Trinity Cathedral, at the top of Chacon Street, with its statue of Governor Woodford, is also worth a visit. A sacred labyrinth (ancient walking meditation tool) on the grounds of the Cathedral is a spiritual oasis in the midst of the bustling city.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Paramin Village, especially during the Christmas season, is famous for its Parang Festivals and delightful cuisine, as well as breathtaking views. The charming village of Lopinot has a museum, a river, picnic tables, a cosy restaurant and playing field and is rumoured to be haunted by the Count de Lopinot. Mount St. Benedict Monastery sits atop a hill in the north overlooking south and central Trinidad. It offers spectacular views, nature tours and exhibitions. Accommodation is available at Pax Guest House, renowned for its afternoon teas and simple but sumptuous dinners. Dine either indoors or, if it’s not raining, out on the balcony, which overlooks mountains and treetops under the stars.

The Angostura Museum, located in Laventille at the House of Angostura, features a display of corporate and national history. For information and to arrange a tour guide, call (868) 623-1841/5 or visit www.angostura.com Cleaver Woods, situated on the Arima Old Road, is famous for the Amerindian Museum housing the works and crafts people. Arima is well-known for the last remaining Santa Rosa Caribs who hold annual festivities there. The Asa Wright Nature Centre was established in 1967 in order to protect and preserve part of

Sights

The Eric Williams Memorial Collection is housed in the library of the University of the West Indies, St. Augustine campus. The Collection holds the library and archives of the late Dr. Eric Eustace Williams, historian, educator and the first Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago. He led the country to Independence from Britain and to becoming a Republic. The Collection is organised around the themes: Family, Scholarship, Statesmanship, Education, Industrial Development, Politics, and Private Study. It is open to the general public on the last two Saturdays of every month from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. School Groups are welcome on Fridays from 9 a.m. to noon. For more information and to make reservations, contact the UWI Alma Jordan Library at (868) 662-2002 or 645-3232/4 Ext. 82132, 83506 or 83361.

North-eastern Trinidad beaches like Matura and Grande Riviere are two of the few remaining nesting sites for leatherback turtles in the world. In order to go turtle viewing with a certified tour guide, you need to obtain a permit from one of the Forestry Division’s offices.

The division will also be able to direct you to an authorised tour guide or tour operator; these guides are trained to preserve the ecological balance of the turtle’s nesting ground. Leatherbacks are sensitive to disturbances while laying, so please listen and obey all the tour guides rules while viewing the nesting process. For more information, please call the Forestry Division’s offices located in San Fernando (call 868-657-8391/7257), Sangre Grande (call 868-668-3825) or Port of Spain (call 868-622-7476).

Central and South Sights In central Trinidad, the Hanuman Murti, located in Carapichaima, is an awesome Hindu religious site. Lion House, formerly the home of Nobel laureate Sir Vidya Naipaul, stands aloof in Chaguanas.

In the south, San Fernando Hill offers a picturesque nature trail and fabulous lookout over the heart of the city.

For further information, contact the San Fernando Office of the Forestry Division at (868) 653-9563.

The Devil’s Woodyard, where the mud volcanoes belch out thick, chocolaty mud, is a delight for the kids to witness.

The La Brea Pitch Lake is the largest asphalt lake in the world. Located on Trinidad’s south-west peninsula, the lake provides the entire country, and many of the neighbouring islands, with pitch for building roads. The ride along the road is like a roller coaster from the melting pitch underground, and the sulphur lakes are well known for their healing properties.

Please use one of the Tourism Development Company (TDC) official tour guides ONLY from within the La Brea Pitch Lake Facility. Persons offering tours outside the facility are NOT authorised to conduct tours on the TDC’s behalf. Official TDC-approved tour guides are outfitted in red polo shirts with the La Brea Pitch Lake logo on the front and the words ‘OFFICIAL TOUR GUIDE’ on the back.

Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Adults pay TT$30; children between 6 and 12 years pay TT$12. Children under 6 years are free.

For further information call the TDC at (868) 651-1232.

The Wild Fowl Trust in Pointe-à-Pierre is a beautiful nature park with tours and nature trails. At the Trust, you can view the beautiful waterfowls of Trinidad and Tobago, and lakes that house a wildlife reserve, which has been in existence for over thirty years; unique to the Caribbean region. Tours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; on weekends 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For more information, contact the Trust at (868) 658-4200 ext. 2512, two days in advance before visiting.

La Vega Estate, located in Gran Couva, from its humble beginnings as a cocoa estate, has grown and blossomed into a thriving nursery and garden centre with outlets in north and south Trinidad. La Vega has opened its gates to the public and offers fun for the entire family. La Vega is also home to a shrine dedicated to the Divine Mercy of Jesus. For further information call (868) 679-9522.

Our Lady of Montserrat RC Church is located approximately ten minutes from the Solomon Hochoy Highway after turning onto the Claxton Bay flyover. This spiritual oasis commands a panoramic view over

Stephen Broadbridge

the Arima Valley. It is globally renowned with ornithologists and birdwatchers. For details call (868) 667-4655; send an e-mail to asaright@tstt.net.tt or visit asawright.org.

much of Trinidad. Designed by a French priest named Fr. Marie Jules Dupoux of Avignon, the building retains its original wooden frame and stained-glass windows, bought and crafted in France. The Church is also home to many holy statues, but the Black Madonna holds court above them all. Many believers travel to Our Lady of Montserrat to pay homage to and to ask for the intercession of the Blessed Virgin.

For more information, contact the Church Office at 650-0082 or 636-0769.

If you’re in Waterloo Village heading to the Temple in the Sea, be sure to stop by D Indian Caribbean Museum of T&T on Waterloo Road, Carapichaima. The museum is one of a kind, dedicated to the preservation of the materials history of over one million descendants of East Indians in the Caribbean. The collection of artifacts is vast, including musical instruments, immigration documents and agricultural tools; religious ritual items, cooking utensils; old photographs of the original East Indian indentured labourers and historical books over 100 years old.

School visitors, tourists, researchers and diplomats all visit the museum to use its resources. Visits to the museum are free of charge, but large groups are asked to schedule tours beforehand. D Indian Caribbean Museum of T&T is a non-profit organisation affiliated with the TDC and the National Museum. Opening hours are from Wednesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information contact the curator at (868) 673-7007 or e-mail icmus@tstt.net.tt.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

73

experience

The Trinidad

If These Walls Could Talk

by Paul Hadden

It is midnight.

Being in this old estate house gives you the feeling of having stepped back in time. Time seems heavier here; through the thick silence, you hear bell chimes floating down the verandah. Your heart beat speeds up because a visitor from the past is here with you now; and she has been casting fear into the hearts of many since her death in May 1964.

We’re on the Santa Estella Estate, a once thriving cocoa plantation in breezy Sangre Grande, north-east Trinidad.

And the restless spirit of Regina Gomez, called Tantine, is said to haunt these dusty corridors. Before her death, her body ravaged and trapped in a wheelchair, she rang a bell to get attention. Her soul yearns to return to the luxury and power of her old life in Caracas where her brother once ruled the nation with an iron fist.

The story of Santa Estella is one of refuge and escape from political turmoil. It is one of the many historical colonial buildings on the island that carry with it a story of

74

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

arrival; and it is buildings like this one that help us to understand some of the ways that our ancestors found themselves on these Caribbean shores.

The estate was originally a joint purchase between then President of Venezuela Juan Vicente Gomez; a cunning and ruthless dictator from 1908 to 1935, and his unruly brother-in-law General Colmanares Pacheco, who had been banished to Trinidad for publicly questioning the dictator. Some remember Gomez for his ingenuity in bringing Venezuela to modernity, but most remember him for his cruelty. After twentyseven long years of controversial rule, Gomez finally succumbed to prostate cancer. And his enemies, many banished for expressing dissent, set their sights on the family of the deceased president. After decades of oppression, they wanted to find every last member of the Gomecistas (the family of the late president), and seek revenge. Our ghost, Tantine, endured a terrifying nighttime escape from Venezuela by sea plane and into a life of exile in Trinidad. She was one of the dictator’s most trusted female confidants, and so a prime target for his enemies. The Santa Estella Estate welcomed her and her family upon their arrival to the island.

The estate house is a brilliant example of Spanish colonial architecture, and it’s most striking feature is the wide sweeping verandah that wraps around the main section of the building, and which has served as the social hub for the descendants of the exiled Gomez family for decades.

In its prime, the estate was a thriving plantation spread out over a lush 12,000 acres, and complete with its own special mark for its cocoa secured by the Marley and Company Cocoa Agents. Working a cocoa plantation, however, involved backbreaking labour. When the Americans arrived in Trinidad during the war, many of the workers were lured to the army bases with promises of US dollars and better working conditions. The cocoa crops fell quickly into decay, suffering from neglect and ravaged by an outbreak of the deadly witches’ broom fungus.

Gomez’s niece, Luisa-Emilia along with her three children Luisa, Trina, and Francisco, were among the Gomecitas who adapted easily to their new life on the island. They picked up English quickly from the songs and the rhymes sung by the workers: “Mosquito one, mosquito two, mosquito jump in the old man’s shoe.” All three married Trinidadians; and according to Trina Martinez, one of Gomez’s great-nieces who arrived in Trinidad at the tender age of eight: “We have always considered ourselves Venezuelan by birth, but Trinidadian by heart.”

But the matriarch Tantine sunk into a deep depression; she even refused to utter a single word of English after her arrival. After 28 long years in Trinidad, Regina Gomez passed away silently into the night.

So if you ever find yourself in one of the many historical colonial buildings scattered around the island, don’t be afraid to ask the owners a little bit about their history. Every one of them has a story to tell. Each of them has its own ghost.

75

Nicholas Reid

76

by Sheldon Waithe

sports

T&T’s sporting year in 2011 began with the hope that the nation could excel globally in its representation across three main disciplines: cricket’s T20 Champions League, the World Athletics Championships and the first round of qualification games for the Football World Cup 2014.

The addition of October’s Pan Am Games in Mexico also provided a timely barometer of the country’s hopes in the London 2012 Olympics, and the number of events and participants in other sports highlighted just how versatile a sporting nation T&T has become.

Firstly, to cricket: T&T sought a repeat of their 2006 victory in the regional four-day competition, but lost to Jamaica under controversial circumstances in the semi-final. The match ended in a draw but Jamaica advanced based on consideration of the result when the two met at the earlier group stage and T&T lost.

T&T’s management disputed the new rules and threatened to take the matter to court, but eventually accepted that the title was lost for another year. T&T continues to lead the Caribbean in the shortest form of the game with another fine performance in the T20 Champions League.

In football, Defence Force FC finally added the season-long Digicel Pro League title to the twenty victories they hold in the Pro League’s previous incarnation as the national championship. Internationally, new Soca Warriors coach Otto Pfister is charged with taking the injury-hit squad on the road to Brazil 2014, beginning with a 4-0 hammering of Barbados in the CONCACAF second round to place the team securely

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

77

Sports

T&T sailor Andrew Lewis, one of Trinidad and Tobago Olympic hopefuls for 2012 in contention for the ‘business end’ in 2012: the third round against the likes of Costa Rico and Mexico.

T&T went in with high hopes of securing a number of medals at the Athletics’ Worlds in South Korea; with a blend of proven performers allied to the maturity of several talented youngsters. There was the ground-breaking performance of Tobagonian Kelly-Ann Baptiste who won bronze in the Women’s 100 metres, the first T&T female to win a track medal at world level. Baptiste has improved year upon year since 2003, and this result points to the prospect of more to come in London 2012. Her counterpart Richard Thompson disappointed in the Men’s 100 metres, especially after he blitzed a new national record of 9.85 seconds two weeks prior to the Worlds. With the Men’s 4 x 100 team hampered by a fall in their final and other athletes providing sub-par performances, there is work to be done before the Olympics.

Since T&T is an island nation, water sports abound. And the results prove it; Andrew Lewis is now pursuing a place in Olympic sailing in the Laser class, becoming the first T&T sailor to take part in the World Championships in Perth in December 2011. The annual Carib Beer Great Race from Port of Spain to Pigeon Point is filled with the usual thrills of man and machine versus the elements; for 2011, Fire One took the winner’s

78

honours. The rapid progress of the new sport of Dragon Boat racing was proven by the success of T&T’s national team at the world championships in Florida. With a whopping 21 medals, it proved that a strong water sports base exists, derived from regattas and dedicated teams such as Excellent Stores’ Titans. In swimming, a quiet year was compounded by Olympic bronze medallist George Bovell’s unfortunate injury, forcing his withdrawal from the Pan Am Games. Luckily, the injury occurred after he was able to earn a fine seventh place finish in the 50 metre freestyle at the World Championships in Shanghai.

The nation’s future IQ scores appear secure as our chess players flexed their cranium power to land seven medals at the CAC Youth Championships in Puerto Rico, throughout the category ranges of Under 10 to Under 18. The young golfers of the nation also gave their best in the Stephen Ames Cup, held this time in Calgary; but testing weather conditions put paid to their effort to bring the Cup home on the third and final day. In 2012 it will be T&T’s turn to host the annual tournament.

Cycling’s Tour of Tobago stepped up a level to become a Union Cycliste Internationale (the world governing body for cycling) accredited race; alas, Trini Emile Abraham fell just short of providing the home victory as Austrian Ricardo

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Zoidl took the spoils. On the track side of the sport, Njisane Phillip continued his impressive trajectory, with a bronze in the Pan American Championships, matched by the same colour metal at the Pan Am Games. However it was his blistering 200 metres ride in August at Colorado that hinted at future greatness: 9.91 seconds was the fastest ride in the world in 2011.

If Phillip showed promise with his Pan Am Games bronze, shooter Roger Daniel emphasised his remarkable consistency with another regional medal. This time he earned a silver medal in the 10-metre pistol event to become the reigning First Citizen’s Bank Sportsman of the Year. A bronze medal went to Emmanuel Callender in the athletics 100 metres, continuing the legacy of fine track sprinters from T&T, and Cleopatra Borel-Brown brought home silver in the shot-put. Honourable mention goes to the young Soca Warriors in their quest for Pan Am gold, as they drew all their games, falling just short of qualifying for the semi-finals.

With the Pan Am Games setting the scene nicely for the Olympics in 2012, there is every reason to believe that T&T can continue to harness its natural talent to once again surpass expectations in all avenues of sport. Given the diversity of sports on the islands and the enthusiasm of fans and competitors alike, the excitement burgeons for another magnificent sporting year.

79

Sports

The Queen’s Park Cricket Club’s Cricket Heritage Museum

by Nasser Khan

“Cricket, lovely cricket…”, so goes the refrain in the popular 1950 calypso by Lord Beginner (Egbert Moore). The sport of cricket is near and dear to every Caribbean person. And the Queen’s Park Oval (situated just outside the capital city of Port of Spain with a capacity of 20,000 spectators) has been the Mecca of West Indies cricket since 1891. Many a famous international battle has taken place at this iconic stadium against other cricketing nations such as England, India, Australia, Pakistan, New Zealand, Sri Lanka and South Africa.

Now the Queen’s Park Oval is home to the world-famous Cricket Heritage Museum. The museum showcases the progress of cricket in Trinidad and Tobago and in the West Indies from just before the turn of the 20th century to the present day. It offers a special experience of the game, with fascinating memorabilia dating back over a century.

According to Museum curator Stephen Almandoz, mainly

80

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

responsible for the meticulous acquisition and collation of much of the material: “The museum offers international visitors a veritable combination of sporting history situated in a single location and acknowledged as one of the most comprehensive found anywhere in the world.”

Many photos of teams of years gone by adorn the walls of the museum. Among the historic artifacts is an autographed bat of the 1950 West Indies Team celebrating their first test match victory over England. The West Indies team at that time included the three famous “Ws”: Sir Frank Worrell, Sir Clyde Walcott and Sir Everton Weekes. Arguably the greatest batsman the world has ever seen, and Queen’s Park club member Brian Lara’s splendid recording breaking performances are also prominently displayed. Showcased are the bats with which he blasted 375 and 400 (not out) against England and 501 (not out) against Durham, all legendary feats in the world of cricket.

Apart from cricket, the Queen’s Park Oval has been the venue for boxing, cycling, football/soccer, hockey, pageants, international concerts and much more. World figures like Queen Elizabeth II, Nelson Mandela, Indira Gandhi, Haile Selassie and the great footballer Pele have also visited the space.

The Cricket Heritage Museum is a must visit.

Visits to the museum are by appointment only. For information call the Queen’s Park Oval at (868)-622-3787 or 622-4325.

Photos: Patricia Lewis

81

Christian Hadeed

by Darren Farfan

business

Just a ten-minute cruise from the marina at Chaguaramas and already there’s a fish on the line.

It’s a tarpon and it’s a big one! The spine-tingling shriek of escaping nylon slices through the sea breeze.

All activity aboard the charter boat reels into a blur of coordinated chaos.

The scene that follows pits fishermen against fish in an ancient ritual that celebrates the tactical primacy of man against the primal instincts and sheer strength of these majestic creatures.

T&T is rapidly becoming known as a world-class sport fishing destination and with good reason. The islands have enjoyed a number of attention grabbing world record breaking catches and a series of successful international tournaments over the past few years. T&T’s growing reputation is underpinned by easy access to first-rate facilities, related support services and fertile fishing grounds. An enviable variety of coveted game fish like marlin, sailfish, wahoo, yellow-fin tuna, swordfish and dolphin are in abundance, especially during the November to May offshore season. And Sport Fishing Magazine highlighted this country’s growing status and year-round appeal in competitive fishing by ranking us as the third best tarpon fishing destination in the world.

With Tobago’s focus on the promotion of ecotourism and Chaguaramas designated as a priority development area, sport fishing taps into the growth potential of the larger fishing, leisure marine and sports tourism sectors. The continued growth of the game fishing industry fits well into the nation’s economic diversification strategy and a number of organisations are determined to make the most of this emerging opportunity.

The Trinidad and Tobago Game Fishing Association (TTGFA) is the local group largely responsible for the promotion and growth of this industry. With its affiliation to the International Game Fish Association (IGFA), the TTGFA hosts and coordinates a number of national and international tournaments while actively promoting conservation of T&T’s marine resources.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

85

Business The Rotary Club of Diego Martin (RCDM) is another organisation actively involved in the development of the sport fishing industry. The RCDM staged its inaugural Unit Trust Corporation North American Fund Trini Tarpon Tournament in September 2011, featuring anglers from Canada, United States, and Trinidad & Tobago.

Fishing took place in the Bocas del Dragón* and small islands on the western tip of Trinidad, considered by many to be the most prolific tarpon fishing grounds in the world. The two-day ‘catch-and-release’ charity event once again featured Dan Jacobs of Sport Fishing, Salt Water Sportsman and Marlin Magazines; Jacobs previously organised and hosted T&T’s first international tarpon fishing event, the Trinidad Tarpon Bash, six years ago.

Captain Bruce Ungar of the Bonefish Tarpon Trust (BTT) was also on hand for this year’s event and put three PSAT tags and two Spot satellite tags on the largest fish caught during the tournament. This was done as part of a wider tagging program to determine the migration patterns of tarpon throughout the Caribbean basin and Florida. DNA samples were also collected by the contestants and provided to the BTT in support of their ongoing research and conservation efforts.

According to chief tournament organiser, Winfield Aleong of the RCDM, “The tournament showcases Trinidad and Tobago as a world-class sport fishing destination and provides an opportunity to educate the public on the conservation of our sport fishing resources by promoting ‘catch-and-release’ fishing and game fish research.”

The RCDM has recognised that the annual Trini Tarpon Tournament has the real potential to contribute to the national economy by bolstering the nation’s sport fishing tourism product and helping to brand T&T as the number one tarpon fishing destination for international sports fishermen Aleong stated that the RCDM remains “committed to developing the relationship with Dan Jacobs of the Bonnier Corporation and Captain Bruce Ungar of the BTT, as these professionals share our vision of bringing Trinidad and Tobago into the world sport fishing spotlight.

“Additionally, we are currently holding discussions with the TTGFA toward the possibility of having their Tarpon Thunder Tournament and our Trini Tarpon Tournament synergised into a series, which will become qualifying events for Trinidad and Tobago’s participation in the World Offshore Fishing Championships.”

With renewed stakeholder and sponsor support and the presence of prominent tournament organisers and publishers, it is anticipated that these tournaments will continue to draw the attention of local and international anglers, sport fishing enthusiasts, journalists and promoters to T&T’s shores. We’ll certainly be there!

Bocas del Dragón* - Also known as The Dragon’s Mouth. Refers to the narrow straits located off Trinidad’s northwest coast; these channels connect the Gulf of Paria to the Caribbean Sea.

Christian Hadeed

For more information on Trinidad’s sport fishing, visit: caribbeanwaterman.com trinitarpontournament.yolasite.com tarbone.org chagdev.com tarpon-fishing-i.com/trinidad-tobago ttgfa.com

86

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Meet

a Trin i

Novelist Earl Lovelace

By Nasser Khan Internationally acclaimed author, novelist and playwright Earl Lovelace turns 77 in 2012. For decades, he has been a major figure in Caribbean literature and has risen to heights of literary glory by copping some of the most prestigious awards in his field. He even won a national award, the Chaconia Gold, for his contributions to T&T. Born in the north-east coastal village of Toco in Trinidad, Lovelace was raised in Tobago and now lives in the Trinidad’s north-west. But he has maintained his roots close to the area of his birth. His artist son Che has become a champion surfer, honing his skills on the nearby seas of Sans Souci and Grande Riviere. Another nearby village, Matura, is where the sprightly author intends to base an organisation aimed at building a research centre, library and multi-purpose facility and to host festivals and workshops for young regional writers; Matura is also known as a major nesting place for the giant leather back turtles. Creative artistic genes clearly run in the family; another son Walt is a film producer while a daughter Asha is a film maker.

Lovelace has said in several interviews that he was always a reader, so his decision to write was not surprising. While Gods Are Falling (1965) was Lovelace’s first novel and it won the British Petroleum Independence Literary Award.

He followed it with The Schoolmaster (1968), The Dragon Can’t Dance (1979), The Wine of Astonishment (1982), and a collection of plays called Jestina’s Calypso and Other Plays in 1984, all critically acclaimed works both at home and abroad. Salt, was published in 1996 and won the Commonwealth Writers Prize (Overall Winner, Best Book) in 1997. And in 2011, this esteemed T&T author was awarded the first Grand Prize for Caribbean Literature by the Regional Council of Guadeloupe for his 2011 book Is Just a Movie. He even authored a children’s book entitled Crawfie the Crapaud and a collection of his essays are published in Glowing in

the Dark: Selected Essays. He co-wrote the script for the film Joebell and America with daughter Asha Lovelace in 2004 and is also nearing completion of his much anticipated autobiography.

Like most prominent Caribbean writers, Lovelace is also well-known for his scholarship.

He attended Howard University in Washington, DC to earn his first degree, and received an MA in English from Johns Hopkins University, Maryland, in 1974, where he was also visiting novelist. Since 1980, Lovelace has toured the globe as a visiting lecturer or writer-inresidence, lecturing or doing writer’s work shops at universities like the International Writing Program at the University of Iowa; the University of the West Indies at St Augustine, Trinidad; the Africana Studies Department at Wellesley College, Massachusetts; and at Pacific Lutheran University, Tacoma, Washington (1999-2004). And he has made himself available for mentorship to other young writers.

A storyteller at heart, Lovelace portrayed Trinidad and Tobago’s culture, prejudices, way of speaking and motivations authentically in his work. Several themes that flavour daily life in T&T also pop up in Lovelace’s work. For instance, his use of local dialect stands out; he regards the oral traditions of the Caribbean diaspora highly, so he pays great attention to how his characters speak and use language to convey meaning. Having lived in various parts of the country from a very young age sensitised him to the difference in local dialects that existed in the various areas.

His characters are often caught between keeping tradition or going along with progress for financial gain and better lifestyles. In The Dragon Can’t Dance, a community of masqueraders finds self-worth in their Carnival performances, but they must decide whether or not the meaning of the festival has changed, although certain time-honoured practises have stayed the same. Lovelace also focuses a lot on music and its use. Local musical forms like calypso feature prominently in his writing. In The Wine of Astonishment, a novel detailing the struggle of the Spiritual Baptist religion in Trinidad to gain respect and recognition, loud, uninhibited, spirit-inspired singing and dancing are integral to worship in this spiritual community, and its outlaw was an important part of their subjugation. Having lost “the spirit” in their own worship, the protagonist recognises a type of rebirth inherent in the rise of the steelband.

According to University of the West Indies professor Ken Ramchand: “Lovelace’s work seeks to digest enslavement, indenture, colonialism, and the oppressions of new forms of economic and cultural imperialism, recasting them in the form of two major quests: firstly, the search for selfhood, the real self beneath and behind the role selves imposed upon us by others and put on in bad faith by ourselves; and secondly, striving for recognition, respect and reparation for what has been abused, trying to make communal wholeness out of a history of fragmentation.”

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

87

Photo by Arnaldo James

Photos courtesy the ttff

Business

Top: The Jamaican Urban drama Better Mus’ Come. Left: A still from the file ‘70: Remembering a Revolution. Right: Attentive audience members at the Litte Carib screening of Hit Me with Music.

Sixth trinidad+tobago film festival (ttff) most ambitious yet

by Jonathan Ali 100 films screened across Trinidad and Tobago The sixth trinidad+tobago film festival (ttff), which ran from September 21 to October 4, 2011, has proved to be the most successful edition of the ttff to date in terms of audience numbers, and showed that Caribbean film is definitely on the upand-up.

The ttff/11 was the most ambitious edition of the festival thus far. Nearly 100 films were screened at more venues than ever before. Locations not only included such usual venues as MovieTowne in Port of Spain and the University of the West Indies at St Augustine, but also, for the first time, the historic Little Carib theatre in Woodbrook, as well as a number of schools, community centres and other recreational facilities throughout both islands.

As ever, the majority of the films— roughly a quarter—came from T&T. There were also films from the Caribbean region and diaspora, from Latin American countries in the Caribbean basin, India and a number of African countries.

88

Local films that proved popular included ’70: Remembering a Revolution, directed

by Alex de Verteuil and Elizabeth Topp, a documentary about the 1970 Black Power disturbances, and Renée Pollonais’s Sweet Fries, a humorous look at the service industry in Trinidad. Both films found themselves in winners’ row on awards night, with ’70 taking the jury prize for best local feature film and Sweet Fries nabbing the jury prize for best short. Chinee Girl, Natalie Wei’s documentary look at Chinese women in Trinidad, took the audience award for best short film.

Films from the wider Caribbean also did well. The Jamaican urban drama Better Mus’ Come, written and directed by Storm Saulter, walked away with the people’s choice award for best narrative feature, while Miquel Galofré’s Hit Me with Music, a look at Jamaica’s dancehall culture, took both the jury and audience awards for best documentary.

Non-traditional film content also made its way into the festival. New Media, a

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

two-day exhibition of avant-garde video works, was held in association with ARC Magazine at Medulla Gallery.

Workshops for filmmakers and others involved in the film industry also formed part of the ttff/11, as they have in previous years. And for the first time, the festival held a workshop for selected, emerging Caribbean filmmakers.

The emerging filmmakers’ initiative, entitled Focus: Filmmakers’ Immersion was supported by the festival’s leading sponsor, RBC Royal Bank, who in 2010 sponsored a young filmmakers’ concept competition at the ttff. This time, a call for entries went out from the ttff across the region. Twelve filmmakers—from Aruba, the Bahamas and Trinidad and Tobago— were selected to participate.

Focus took place over three days at the outset of the ttff/11, and was designed to help participants with feature-length narrative film projects they have in development. The sessions were led by two experienced film-industry professionals: Venezuelan writer and director Fina Torres and Guyanese-Canadian producer and actor Damon D’Oliviera.

At the end of the three days, Torres and D’Oliviera selected six of the 12 filmmakers they deemed most ready to go on to a public pitch session. Maria Govan, a screenwriter and director from the Bahamas, emerged the winner with her project, Epiphany, the story of a young Greek-Bahamian woman who is at odds with her close-knit, conservative community. Her efforts won her a cash prize of TT$20,000.

“Focus was an incredible experience,” said Govan. “It was incredibly helpful to articulate my vision for Epiphany. Thanks to RBC Royal Bank for offering such a meaningful cash prize.”

As part of her prize Govan also received a trip, all expenses paid, to the upcoming Bahamas International Film Festival. As she is from the Bahamas, Govan has decided to pass on the prize to another Focus participant, Kevin Adams of T&T. The ttff, which has taken place annually since 2006, is supported by the Trinidad & Tobago Film Company, the National Gas Company, the Tourism Development Company, bpTT and the Tobago House of Assembly.

For more information visit: www.ttfilmfestival.com.

Business Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau Nothing in the Caribbean can compare to the unsurpassed energy, diversity and distinctive heritage of the modern, cosmopolitan city of Port of Spain, the capital of Trinidad and Tobago. And for meeting planners seeking something exciting and new in the Caribbean, the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau (TTCB) will work closely with you to secure the right event venue and plan the perfect programme.

As diverse and innovative as the destination it serves, the TTCB offers unrivalled expertise and an impressive range of free services to groups and meeting planners.

From comprehensive information on the destination’s venues, hotels and pricing to acting as an intermediary between accommodation providers and meeting coordinators, local chapters of international organisations, business chambers and incoming groups, the TTCB will ensure your budget is maximised. Specific services targeted to meeting planners include the provision of promotional literature, site inspections, assistance with official bids, information and quotations from suppliers and conference marketing. The TTCB can also operate as a liaison and coordinator for hoteliers, tour guides and tour operators while providing information kits for delegates and arranging tours and spouse programmes.

Specialising in creating the perfect pre and post event package, the Bureau can tailor activities to surpass expectations and delight the senses of your delegates: from beach outings where participants snack on local street cuisine to rum tours at the famous Angostura distillery where your delegates are immersed in the history of the world-renowned Angostura Bitters.

Recent tours sponsored by the Bureau included a musical experience where delegates played the steel pan, Trinidad and Tobago’s national instrument, while sipping rum punch; and an eco-adventure at the internationally recognised Asa Wright Nature Centre for bird watching and conservation located deep in a tropical rainforest.

In 2011, the TTCB facilitated more than 30 meetings and conferences, including the

90

A delegate tries his hand on the steel pan at the Int’l Conference on Caribbean Literature

Caribbean Development Bank Board of Governors Annual General Meeting, the International Project Management Conference, the Trade and Investment Conference – which drew exhibitors from as far as China – and the Trinidad and Tobago Energy Conference, which attracted the industry’s most influential names and decision makers.

This year, Trinidad and Tobago will host the International Press Institute World Congress on Press Freedom in June, which is expected to attract more than 400 delegates, including top media houses and journalists, from around the world. Other exciting conferences planned for 2012 include the Caribbean Veterinary Association Conference, the Pan-American Congress of Applied Mechanics, and the Lions’ Multiple District Convention, which will attract 900 delegates from around the region.

To learn more about this exciting Caribbean destination, contact the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau at: conventionbureau@tdc.co.tt or visit gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings Plan Trinidad & Tobago – your clients would love you for it.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Birding at the Asa Wright Nature Centre

The sweet sounds of pan at the Energy Conference

Business

Awakening Creativity through Artistic Expression

As we upkeep our pledge to make a difference in community life, the task ahead, is our ability to engage the people of our country to achieve more. Guided by our corporate social responsibility doctrine, the Power to Make A Difference, Republic Bank has transformed a decades-long, deep-seated belief in nation building into the definitive blueprint for a successful relationship with the NGO (Non-Government Organisation) and CBO (Community-Based Organisation) sectors.

In 2011, Republic Bank once again looked inward for the keys to take this relationship to the next level. What we were able to achieve gave us the inspiration to continuing setting the standard of corporate investment in the region. The breakout year began with the Republic Bank Young Artists Canvas the World project: a groundbreaking youth empowerment programme, that gave us the opportunity and the impetus to challenge the nation’s young achievers, to reach into their creative centres and produce impressive works of art.

92

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Invitations were extended to every secondary school in the country, as we looked for the most creative art pieces to adorn our Air Bridges at the Piarco International Airport. Submissions came in by the hundreds, with each recapturing through visual representation the eclectic blend of cultures left by our African, European and Indian forebears. In the end, seven of the most talented and diverse entries were chosen.

The success of the Republic Bank Young Artists Canvas the World, represents the culmination of the work and innovation of our corporate social investment strategy.

Under the pillars of the Power to Care, the Power to Help, the Power to Learn and the Power to Succeed, we champion the Power to Make A Difference Programme as an endeavour in believing in our nation and unlocking the potential inherent in each of us.

Republic Bank believes in the philosophy of individuals and corporations using their resources to make a positive difference in the lives of those around them, to underscore the private sector and the community is vital roles in the foundation of a country.

Our on-going drive to promote self-sufficiency, development and hope for the future, stems in great part from our nation’s cultural and religious diversity – the source of a unique combination of ideas, values, skills, beliefs and approaches to life. This is a source worth preserving at any cost.

The chosen artists were Johnathan Smith of Hillview College, Tunapuna; Ella Bayne of the International School of Port of Spain; Meagan Wong-Sang of St Joseph’s Convent, Port of Spain; Shivani Sibaran of Naparima Girls’ High School; Sophia Mitchell of Naparima Girls’ High School; Camille Parris of St. Joseph’s Convent, San Fernando; and Sarah Achim of the International School of Port of Spain.

health & beauty Whether you’re in Trinidad for business or pleasure, there’s no need to neglect your favourite beauty treatments. Spending time in paradise gives you lots of benefits; one of these is that spas sometimes use the organic ingredients available on the island in treatments.

The Hyatt Regency Trinidad Spa Esencia’s treatment list is extensive; sample the cocoa bean body wrap, scrub and mani-pedi if you’re in the mood to enjoy all-natural products with your star-quality spa experience. The treatments use roasted and ground anti-oxidant-rich beans supplied to the spa by a local cocoa farmer. But don’t think that local spas don’t use world-class cosmetics and techniques. With five branches across the country, the Face & Body Clinic Limited is a leader in laser and microderm abrasion skin techniques along with its full range of spa and beauty services. And of course, you can’t neglect your hair and nail treatments. You’ll want those glowing holiday photos to look as good as you feel! Get a haircut or highlights put in, plus nail art, Keratin treatments and a host of other services at Roberto Nu-look Salon.

If you’ve had a little too much fun and need some medical assistance, professional, well-trained nurses and doctors can attend to you at several private facilities. Visit Westshore Medical for general medical treatments or emergencies. The Fracture and Orthopaedic Clinic is great for specialised treatments in sports medicine, chronic tendonitis and osteo-arthritis, so you can comfortably get your usual treatment and enjoy your holiday or business trip without pain.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

95

Health & Beauty

96

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Health & Beauty

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

97

accommodation

by The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA)

Our accommodation facilities are as varied as our tourism offerings here in Trinidad. They cover a wide spectrum from luxury boutique hotels, to nature resorts, to cosy owner-operated host homes, to international brand, star rated hotels.

Trinidad is best known for its business clientele; as a result, there are a number of top class businessoriented hotels capable of hosting meetings, events and conferences of all sizes. The hotels are all equipped with the services and amenities to make them internationally competitive. We also recognise that some business travellers prefer a local flavour, so there are locally owned and operated facilities in a range of sizes which can compete quite readily with the international brand hotels.

Our properties are located throughout the island. So if you need to be close to the oil and energy sector based in south Trinidad, there are a number of excellent options in Pointe a Pierre and San Fernando. If you need to be near the business city centre, there are several different hotels, guest houses and host home options in and around Port of Spain. The larger hotels are in downtown Port of Spain, but more intimate and budget-friendly options are available in Maraval, Cascade, St. Ann’s and St. Clair which are all minutes away from the central business district.

Many of the hotels in Trinidad are also well known for their restaurants, regularly patronised not only by the hotel guests but the local population. All of the accommodation facilities are within quick access of a variety of dining and nightlife options.

Trinidad is not only about business; we also have a very diverse eco-tourism product. Accommodations include beach front hotels ideal for turtle watching as well as eco-lodges nestled in the forest, perfect spots for bird watching. Our western peninsula is ideal for boating, fishing and nature watching.

Whatever your accommodation needs, there are ideal options available to suit. Explore and discover some of these unique elements of Trinidad on your next visit.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

99

Accommodation Courtyard by Marriott

Invader’s Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 627-5555 Fax: (868) 627-6317 www.marriott.com Refresh your travel experience at the Courtyard by Marriott, Port of Spain. This contemporary hotel features a re-designed lobby; restaurant, library and business centre. The 119 spacious guest rooms and suites offer plush beds, large work desks with ergonomic task chairs and free internet access. The hotel is conveniently located 40 minutes from the international airport, just 10 minutes away from the city centre and within walking distance to the MovieTowne Entertainment Complex and the Hasley Crawford National Stadium. Host a memorable meeting or business event in any of our versatile conference rooms; the perfect setting for a small business dinner or social gathering.

Hyatt Regency Trinidad 1 Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad WI Tel: (868) 623 2222 www.trinidad.hyatt.com facebook.com/hyattregencytrinidad Hyatt Regency Trinidad, a luxurious high-rise hotel of contemporary design located in downtown Port of Spain, presents an unrivalled level of comfort, service and convenience among Trinidad hotels.

This 428-room hotel, catering to business, convention and leisure travelers, boasts spacious suites and guestrooms with spectacular gulf and city views, flat-screen televisions, wired and wireless internet and the signature Hyatt Grand BedTM. Also featured is a 16,000square-foot Regency Ballroom, a 10,000-square-foot Port of Spain Ballroom; a full-service restaurant; lobby bar and lounge; sushi bar; a 9,000 square-foot spa; state-of-the-art fitness center and rooftop infinity pool with stunning panoramic views of the gulf.

Tradewinds Hotel #38 London Street, St. Joseph Village, San Fernando Tel: (868) 652-9463 Email: delia@tradewindshotel.net www.tradewindshotel.net Tradewinds Hotel is situated in the breezy residential area of St. Joseph Village, San Fernando and has been owned and operated by the Laing Family since 1994. The forty-one-room “Home Away From Home” boasts friendly, helpful and courteous staff and an efficient management team, making it the first choice among the business sector. Rooms are spacious and fully equipped with minibar, cable TV, air-conditions, safes and complimentary wireless Internet access.

Meals are provided at the ‘Driftwood Restaurant’ from as early as 5a.m and guests can also enjoy drinks and cutters at the ‘On Deck Pub’. Other facilities include: Conferencing, Mini-Mart, gym with state-of-the-art equipment and instructors on site, swimming pool, massage therapist, souvenir shop and hair salon.

100

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre 1B Lady Young Road, Port of Spain Trinidad Tel: (868) 624-3211/3211 Fax: (868) 624-4485 E-mail:poshi_sales@hilton.com www.hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidad www.facebook.com/hiltontrinidad; www.twitter.com/hiltontrinidad This unique architecturally designed ‘upside down’ hotel is forty-five minutes away from the Piarco International Airport and five minutes away from the business districts, historical sites and downtown shopping area. The hotel now offers 418 recently renovated rooms, including 27 suites, all with private balconies, high touch and high tech amenities. This Hilton hotel also offers superb meeting rooms and function spaces that can accommodate up to 1,000 persons.

Other services and facilities include one restaurant; one coffee shop; three bars; 24-hour room service; 24-hour business centre; two Chevron tennis courts; outdoor swimming pools; a 5,000 square foot fitness centre with saunas; bank & ATM machine; and a shopping arcade.

Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites 1 Exposition Drive, Trincity Phone: (868) 669-6209 Fax: (868) 692-4557 E-Mail: holidayinnexpress2@tstt.net.tt www.hiexpress.com/trincitytt This attractive hotel is conveniently located three minutes from the airport and thirty minutes from Port of Spain. Situated within a growing urban development, close to the Millennium Lakes Golf and Country Club, Trincity Mall and Multiplex Cinema, this property features eighty-two beautifully appointed guest rooms and suites. We offer complimentary Continental Breakfast along with contemporary amenities and facilities including: Outdoor Swimming Pool, On-Site Laundry Facility, Fitness and Business Centre and Free High-Speed Internet Access! For business or leisure, the Holiday Inn Express and Suites, Trincity, is only minutes from businesses and attractions including Restaurants, Nature Reserves and Industrial Parks.

STAY SMART® and MEET SMART.

Crowne Plaza Trinidad Crowne Plaza Trinidad - PO Box 1017, Wrightson Road, Port of Spain.

Tel: 625-3361/8 Fax 625-4166 Email: eoffice@cplazahotel.com; sales@cplazahotel.com Welcome to the Crowne Plaza® Trinidad, the only hotel in Port of Spain that provides complimentary internet access to all our guests.

Guests can choose from one of our 243 renovated guest rooms which, apart from being the largest in Port of Spain, have breathtaking views of the city and the Gulf of Paria. All come complete with the Sleep Advantage Program™.

As “The Place to Meet,” this hotel offers extensive conference and banqueting facilities and an on-site business center.

This hotel’s accommodations encourage guests to relax with such amenities as an outdoor pool and fitness centre. Our two restaurants and lounge promise to tantalise your taste buds.

102

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

103

Accommodation Cara Suites Hotel & Conference Centre Pointe-a-Pierre, Southern Main Road, Claxton Bay, Trinidad Tel: (868) 659-2271 Fax: (868) 659-2202 E-mail: carasuitespap@carahotels.com www.carahotels.com Try our New Superior Executive Ocean or Garden View Rooms All our non-smoking Superior Executive Rooms include: full buffet breakfast; king-sized bed with pillow top mattress & comforter; high speed internet access; in-room safe; 32-inch flat screen high definition television with cable; air conditioning; working desk & chair; stocked mini bar with complimentary water; iPod docking station / clock radio; reading chair with ottoman; direct dial telephone; ceiling fan; microwave; hospitality tray; hair dryer; iron & ironing board and complimentary daily newspaper.

Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670 1868 Fax: (868) 670 1015 E-mail: maktoub@mac.com www.mtplaisir.com Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel is the only true beach hotel in Trinidad. Located in Grande Riviere Bay, along the Caribbean northeast coast, it hosts thousands of nesting of the endangered leatherback turtles every year between March and August. Mt. Plaisir is also an excellent base for beach relaxation, forest hiking to the majestic rain forest of the Northern Range, or for boat trips to small coves or remote beaches. There is an excellent restaurant at the resort that offers Caribbean, Indian and Italian dishes using mainly fruits and vegetables grown locally. Mt Plaisir also proudly serves a line of dairy products: Dolce Valle Dairy, handmade in our farm utilising only fresh milk from our cows and water buffaloes. In 2008, it was also voted the best small resort in T&T by local and foreign visitors in a survey conducted by the Tourism Board.

At Mt. Plaisir, you will surely have an unforgettable time.

L’Orchidée Boutique Hotel 3 Coblentz Gardens, St. Ann’s Tel/Fax: (868) 621-0613 / 0063 E-mail: reservations@trinidadhosthomes.com www.trinidadhosthomes.com

L’Orchidée Boutique Hotel is located in the beautiful landscaped neighbourhood of St. Ann’s, Port-of-Spain and 35 minutes from Piarco International Airport. Conveniently situated 5 minutes drive from the City center, Port of Spain, and minutes walking distance of the Queen’s Park Savannah. At L’Orchidée our twelve beautifully appointed rooms are themed after orchids, and our cozy fine- dining room and open-air patio serve a fusion of sumptuous local and international cuisine. Wireless and High Speed internet is available throughout the property making it ideal for the business traveler.

Enter L’Orchidée and experience being lavished with care and attention like our orchids. L’Orchidée — The Boutique Experience!

104

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

105

Accommodation Regent Star Hotel 118–119 BWIA Boulevard, Piarco, Trinidad Tel: (868) 669-5050 Fax: (868) 669-1739 E-mail: info@regentstarhotel.com www.regentstarhotel.com The newest and most beautiful hotel located in Piarco is only moments away from the airport. Our hotel comprises of luxuriously comfortable and stylish bedrooms, complete with state-of-the-art conference facilities for your business needs; a beautiful spa, gym and so much more! We also offer specialty food made by Trinidad’s best executive chef, ranging from fine dining to buffetstyle as well as a bar and indoor pool that entails a dining area to unwind the stresses of your day. Come let us serve you…

Royal Hotel

46–54 Royal Road, San Fernando, Trinidad Reservations: (868) 652-4881 E-mail: info@royalhoteltt.com www.royalhoteltt.com Royal Hotel is located in the city of San Fernando. Surrounded by an awesome canopy of Samaan trees, and lush foliage, we welcome you to the warmth of our Southern hospitality. All rooms and suites are air-conditioned and outfitted with modern facilities for your every comfort. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant, which specialises in a variety of tasty Caribbean and International cuisine, or just sit back and relax at our bar and lounge or around our swimming pool. Our hotel also includes conference facilities as well as an ideal setting for wedding receptions, cocktail parties and other special functions.

Ideally suited to the business traveler, we offer special group and long- term rates.

Le Grande Almandier

2 Hosang Street, Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel/Fax (868) 670-1013 / 2294 E-mail: info@legrandealmandier.com www.legrandealmandier.com Located eighty-eight km from Piarco International Airport, Le Grande lies nestled between the almond trees and the beach. Here the forested headlands border the magnificent coastline to the north and the majestic Grande Riviere River, from which the village gets its name, to the northeast. The perfect retreat to enjoy all that Mother Nature has to offer: the birds, the wildlife, the nesting leatherback turtles, fishing, boat tours and waterfall tours. The ten tastefully decorated rooms and suites sleep two to six persons. The ideal choice for anyone in search of peace and serenity in completely natural surroundings.

106

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

107

Accommodation The Carlton Savannah

2-4 Coblenz Avenue, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 621.5000 Fax: (868)621.5001 Email: reservations@thecarltonsavannah.com www.thecarltonsavannah.com The Carlton Savannah, Trinidad’s trendiest boutique hotel, is nestled on a mountain in Cascade, located minutes from downtown Port of Spain and adjacent to the Queen’s Park Savannah. The hotel has 148 guestrooms, which can be easily converted to 49 suites with your choice of a living room or fully equipped office space.

Our guest rooms are air conditioned and cable ready with internet access, flat screen televisions and all suites have a kitchen, dining and laundry areas. Meeting and conference facilities are available.

Other hotel facilities include a state-of-the-art fitness center; saltwater lap pool; and 2 restaurants, RELISH, our casual dining restaurant and CASA, a fine dining restaurant.

Rest assured…it’s all about you!

Par-May-La’s Inn

53 Picton Street, Trinidad Tel: (868) 628-2008 Fax: (868) 628-4707 E-mail: reservation@parmaylas.com Sundeck Suites 42—44 Picton Street, Trinidad Tel: (868) 628-9560/1 Fax: (868) 628-4707 E-mail: reservation@sundecktrinidad.com

Surfside Hotel Crown Point, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-2418/3521 Fax: (868) 639-0614 E-mail: surfside@mail.tt

Three small, friendly properties, strategically located to experience the best of both islands, offering guesthouse prices with hotel standards. All rooms are air-conditioned with private bathroom facilities. Regular rates start from US$45 per night, single occupancy, but could be much lower for groups.

Hacienda Jacana Trinidad Tel: (868) 498-7597 E-mail: haciendajacana@gmail.com www.haciendajacana.com Each of the four rustic cottages at Hacienda Jacana has 2 airconditioned bedrooms, a living room, kitchen, dining area and a porch – all fully furnished with quality-crafted furniture and Direct TV. A comfortable pool-house sits next to the lounging pool. Two canoes are available for use. Nestled within 22 acres at the edge of the tropical rainforest, the area is peaceful, private and totally secure.

Guests have been effusive in their praise: “Even more lovely than I could have imagined.”

“Food was scrumptious and plentiful.”

“I swung in my hammock listening to the birds.”

“Every possible thing was there for us to prepare our breakfast. And lunch and dinner were delivered to the cottages.”

108

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

109

Accommodation Acajou Hotel Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670-3771 Fax: (868) 670-4566 E-mail: info@acajoutrinidad.com www.acajoutrinidad.com ACAJOU is a small, eco-friendly, family-operated hotel situated on the beautiful and dramatic northern coast of Trinidad in a small fishing village called Grande Riviere. The hotel is built as a group of traditional cottages nestled between the beach, a crystal clear river and lush rainforest-covered mountains.

What makes Grande Riviere unique are the hundreds of endangered leatherback turtles that nest here every year, from March until August.

Please visit www.tripadvisor.com for unbiased reviews about ACAJOU Hotel.

Carnetta’s Inn Limited Relaxing, Informal, Affordable 99 Saddle Road, Maraval, Trinidad, W.I Tel: (868) 628-2732; 622-5165; 622-2884 Fax (868) 628-7717 E-mail:reservations@carnettasinn.com www.carnettasinn.com One of Maraval’s best kept secrets, Carnetta’s Inn has fourteen spacious rooms spanning from the Saddle Road to over the Maraval River. Carnetta and Winston Borrell are focusing on healthy lifestyles and are growing and consuming local, organically-grown ingredients.

This has caused an interesting shift in the Carnetta’s Inn product, bringing you agro-tourism where you least expect it! Come and enjoy a cool drink of coconut water at our Riverside Lounge, called the Sanctuary; or bring the kids to take part in our activities. Learn about the wonders of wheat grass and the health benefits of rabbit meat and using Coconut oil. We are definitely more than you expect!

Anise Resort and Spa Pole #84, Big Bay Sans Souci, Toco, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670-4437 Fax: (868) 670-4435 E-Mail: info@aniseresort.com www.aniseresort.com Anise Resort and Spa is an exclusive, 11-room resort nestled in the foothills of idyllic Sans Souci, Toco on the north-east coast of Trinidad.

The cuisine is world class, the setting is serene, the staff is warm, and welcoming, and the life is a dream. It is our wish to help plan, prepare and deliver your perfect island vacation, destination wedding, fun day away from the office, corporate team builder, and all of your milestone events. Anise awaits you. Please see our Rooms Section online for seasonal rates and package details.

110

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

special events If you want to host an event in Trinidad, you probably want a list of vendors first. Event planners should be your first port of call since they are closely linked to other vendors and may even be able to get you discounts! They may also be familiar with spaces that fit your budget and event style, so they can advise you on where to look and what to pick.

If you’re a DIY event specialist, then you’re probably looking for vendors who can match your sense of style. Don’t be afraid to play around with fun concepts; instead of a boring dinner party, have a Sushi Night complete with Japanese-styled outfits and decorations, or create a special cocktail based on your theme.

You should also be able to find food and beverage vendors who are not only great at what they do, but can provide some entertainment as well. Imagine having a bartender thrill your guests with both daring tricks and delicious cocktails!

When renting all your event knick knacks – cutlery, crockery, tents, table cloths and napkins, table and chairs and the like – you can do it the easy way or the hard way. The hard way involves going around to several different vendors for several different types of items. Why not just find one rental company that has everything you need?

Any planner knows that the chosen space has to fit the event’s theme. And you’ll find all types of spaces suited to each and every occasion. As a Caribbean business hub, Trinidad host many conferences both large and small, and you’ll find available conference rooms at large hotels, tertiary institutions, club houses and other business centres in the island’s cities and major towns. Weddings are also another important type of event that Trinidad often hosts, whether it’s the small beach-front exchange of vows or a huge, lavish ballroom party. And if the same hotel that hosts your surf-and-sea nuptials can host a relaxing spathemed bachelorette party for your pre-wedding pampering, even better.

For small, intimate parties, consider asking your favourite restaurant or your hotel if private rooms are available. Patios or decks make for great event spaces too, so ask your hotel concierge for ideas and suggestions.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

113

Special Events

114

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

116

Kes Dieffenthaller Keown Thomas

entertainment

by Peter Ray Blood

It’s not just about oil and gas in Trinidad and Tobago.

In a few short years, the arts have mushroomed at an alarming rate, making the twin-island republic the mecca of culture in the Caribbean.

At almost the speed of a blink, Woodbrook has replaced St James, once referred to as “the City that never sleeps,” as the busiest thoroughfare for entertainment and gourmet cuisine.

Nightly, one is afforded a plethora of activity along Ariapita Avenue and its artery streets; from fine dining, ethnic cuisine of the Middle East to Asian and oriental delights, to Mediterranean menus, not to mention bustling casinos.

To supplement the non-stop flow of premium liquor outlets that dot this bustling avenue are sushi, doubles and gyro stalls, all competing for patronage.

Not to be outdone, south Trinidad offers similar fare, extending to La Romaine on the outskirts of the nation’s second city, San Fernando, and even further to Point Fortin.

Indigenous music genres like soca and chutney have also been on a rapid rise. With prize monies now being offered to champions in these art forms to the tune of two million dollars, the quality of compositions and performances has exponentially improved. This is borne out by our top artistes appearing at popular

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

117

Entertainment events in big cities like New York, London and Toronto; selling out prestigious performance spaces internationally like Madison Square Garden; and being nominated for some of the world’s most prominent music awards shows, like the Soul Train Awards.

All-inclusive parties, initially inaugurated as a fund-raising venture by the University of the West Indies, St Augustine campus, and Veni Mange Restaurant, are reasonably priced in the vicinity of US$100, and offer patrons unlimited access to exquisite cuisine and premium drinks, as well as the comforts of personal attention in air conditioned suites, massages and pedicures, with the latest musical treats of the season as background ambience. At allinclusives, the true gaiety and joie de vivre of T&T shines through.

Trinidad boasts of having the largest movie screen in the region, as well having four cineplexes. Not only do we shine in movie craft locally – we host our own hugely popular annual film festival – but our movie-makers and actors continue to excel and garner acclaim at foreign film festivals. Trinidad also has one of the most vibrant fine arts circuit in the Caribbean, with galleries hosting exhibitions nationwide on a weekly basis.

Many a national dance association and theatre guild in the region has been inspired by sons and daughters of T&T, including talented nationals like Beryl McBurnie, Thora Dumbell, Kelvin Rotardier, Astor Johnson and Julia Edwards. Dance forms an integral space in the country’s cultural tapestry, annually holding a place of permanence and prominence at Dimanche Gras, the stage production which ushers in two days of Carnival revelry.

One other prestigious dance and theatre production annually is the Prime Minister’s Best Village Trophy Competition, inaugurated in the 1960s by former prime minister the late Dr. Eric Williams.

Best Village embraces the performing genres of indigenous and folk dance, culinary arts, craft, sports, and fashion design.

118

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

SPACE LA NOUBA

Looking for an out-of–this–world party experience?

SPACE LA NOUBA is the one and only place to be!

SPACE LA NOUBA offers you not only the most sensational parties, but we can also accommodate private parties, graduations, product launches and seminars. Our audio and lighting system can accommodate just about anything, and our versatile kitchen can turn out any menu to cater to special events.

Looking for a venue to host your wedding reception? SPACE LA NOUBA can provide everything including chairs, tables, tablecloths, cutlery, servers, deejay, drinks, food. To take the hassle out of planning your wedding reception, just come in and celebrate!

SPACE LA NOUBA … the number one place to party!

South Trunk Road, Gulf View, La Romaine Tel: (868) 697–1165 Fax: (868) 222-2582 E-mail: bunny@spacetrinidad.com Website: www.spacetrinidad.com Visit us on Facebook!

119

restaurants Trinidad and Tobago has always been a kind of food centre of the Caribbean. From fast food to FrenchCaribbean fusion to Asian, Arabian and Japanese cuisine; if it’s good food, you can probably find it here.

Asian food has always been huge in Trinidad; popular quick-serve Chinese food restaurants are everywhere, and bigger, fine dining style Asian fusion restaurants are also easy to find in the cities. And over the last five years, a kind of sushi boom has occurred. You can find excellent rolls, nigiri and sashimi from several sushi restaurants in Port of Spain, and even a few in east and south Trinidad, which contain delicious fresh fish alongside local ingredients and herbs like avocado, plantains and chive.

T&T is well-known in the region for its chefs’ mastery and innovation in traditional European cuisines. You’ll find traditional French dishes like coq au vin reinvented as stewed chicken. Or ingredients like breadfruit, pig trotters and dasheen leaves (originally considered slave food) deconstructed and elevated in gorgeous plating and garnishes.

Not into gourmet food? There are many international ‘fast food’ or casual dining chains that have made a home here. On any night of the week you can get great-tasting ‘cutters’ (finger foods), pizza, burgers and fries, buffalo wings, ice cream and other familiar treats from several locations across T&T. Local casual dining restaurants offer similar menus with barbequed meats, creole food and condiments like garlic sauce and shadon beni sauce.

If you’re really adventurous, the street food choices in Trinidad and Tobago are vast, delicious and usually eaten with your hands! A dish called ‘doubles’ is a favourite with locals: curried chick peas (called ‘channa’ locally) sandwiched between two soft fried pancakes, made of split pea powder and flour. Maracas Beach on the north coast is famous as a liming spot and for the ‘bake and shark’ sandwiches, showcased by Andrew Zimmern of the Travel Channel’s Bizzare Foods. Bake, a fried bread-like roll, is sliced and the fried shark meat placed inside. You can add extra fillings and condiments, from ketchup to garlic sauce to coleslaw and pineapple slices.

Wherever you choose to eat in Trinidad, eat well and enjoy!

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

121

Restaurants

T.G.I. Friday’s

Benihana

B Lounge

bptt Building, POS Tel: (868) 624-TGIF (8443)

Level 2, Southern Wing Trincity Mall, Trincity Tel: (868) 640-0549, 640-9644 E-mail: benihanatt@yahoo.com

Located at Eat It Restaurant Marabella Tel: (868) 657-1928 Fax: (868) 652-1097 E-mail: blounge.tt@gmail.com Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/ blounge.tt

Price Plaza, Chagaunas Tel: (868) 673-TGIF (8443) Gulf City, San Fernando Tel: (868) 653-TGIF (8443) In 1965, Friday’s® became the quintessential American bar and grill while creating a cultural beacon for fun and raising the expectation for socialisation. Over the years, T.G.I. Friday’s has developed a rich food and beverage heritage which includes popularising Happy Hour and creating the Long Island Iced Tea and Loaded Potato Skins. The heart of each T.G.I. Friday’s is the bar, a stage where that ‘Friday Feeling’ begins and infectious energy is created by the world’s greatest bartenders serving up innovative drinks. Whether for lunch, dinner or late night dining , we always provide an environment that frees our guests to let go of restraints and be themselves, so they leave our restaurants feeling far better than they did when they first walked through our doors.

THE FLAVOUR OF JAPAN. A meal at Benihana is unlike any other dining experience. At Benihana, you watch as your personal chef performs the ancient art of Teppanyaki. You listen as razor-sharp blades slice through tender steak and juicy chicken. You take in the aroma of sizzling shrimp, lobster and savoury vegetables, all prepared to perfection on a steel grill right before your eyes at your table.

So bring a friend, a date, your children, your family or your office crew. Bring anyone who enjoys a delicious, freshly cooked meal with a little fun thrown in!

Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Average cost per head $300. for a three course meal with an alcoholic beverage for dinner and $200. for lunch.

Menu Sample Appetizers

Buffalo Wings, Loaded Potato Skins

Menu Sample

Grill

Benihana Delight

Jack Daniel’s® Ribs, Jack Daniel’s® Chicken, Jack Daniel’s® Steak Mains

Bbq Roasted Chicken, Friday’s® Shrimp Salads

Chicken Caesar Salad, Shanghai Chicken Salad Pasta

Cajun Shrimp & Chicken Pasta, Blackened Chicken Alfredo Burgers

Cheesy Bacon Cheeseburger, Southwest Burger Dessert

Chicken breast and colossal shrimp, lightly seasoned and grilled Deluxe Treat

Filet mignon* and cold water lobster tail grilled with butter and lemon Sushi Specialty Rolls: Benihana Roll

Tuna, shrimp, yellowtail, izumidai, salmon, crabstick meat, avocado, cucumber Shrimp Lover’s Roll

Crabstick meat, avocado, shrimp tempura, shrimp, cucumber

Mocha Mud Pie, Oreo Madness Lunch • Dinner • Take Away Available

122

Bar • Take away available

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

B Lounge is an experience in international and Caribbean fusion cuisine.

B Lounge is designed with an ultra-modern theme, which features a high definition LCD display, sophisticated buffet room and the perfect ambience for dining.

If you are looking for a location to host a small private function, cocktail reception or business meeting, B Lounge is the perfect place for you.

Our experienced chef expertly prepares our Appetizers and Main Course.

We shall gladly accommodate menu suggestions for your special occasion.

Menu Sample APPETIZERS

Pumpkin corn soup Shrimp cocktail Honey garlic wings MAIN COURSE

Baked paprika chicken breast with pineapple glaze French-cut lamb lions in red wine reduction Beef strips with bell peppers & brandy Filet King fish creole MAIN COURSE –SIDES

Pasta calabrese Roasted rosemary potatoes Vegetable sauté Saffron vegetable rice Business Casual • Buffet Dining

123

Restaurants

Popeyes

Burger King

LeVeLs

Restaurant Holdings Limited Restaurant Support Centre Unit 5, Lot 2c, Chootoo Road, El Socorro Tel: (868) 674-2729 Fax: (868) 675-2104 E-mail: rsc@bkpopeye.com

Restaurant Holdings Limited Restaurant Support Centre Unit 5, Lot 2c, Chootoo Road, El Socorro Tel: (868) 674-2729 Fax: (868) 675-2104 E-mail: rsc@bkpopeye.com

1 Taylor Street Woodbrook, Port-of-Spain Tel: (868) 622-5350 E-mail: reservations@levelsultrabar.com

Discover Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen built around the traditional Southern American home-style cooking.

At Popeyes, food is our passion. We are renowned for our chicken and seafood dishes. Try our signature side items of spicy vegetable rice, mashed potatoes, cole slaw or onion rings to complete your meal.

Popeyes is committed to providing a flavourful dining experience every meal, every time. Located at Movietowne Invaders Bay, Trincity Mall, Montrose Chaguanas, Gulf City and Grand Bazaar.

Burger King – ‘Home of the Whopper’ – is known for its flame-broiled beef burgers.

Celebrate fast food diversity with Burger King as it boasts of variety to satisfy your palette from fish to steak, chicken and ham products.

We are conveniently located in Movietowne at Invaders Bay; Trincity Mall; Westmall; Grand Bazaar; Curepe; Price Plaza; Gulf City; Montrose, Chaguanas; St. James; Maraval; and High Street in San Fernando.

Menu Sample

Menu Sample SAMPLE MENU: Louisiana Style Fried Chicken Shrimp Basket Fish Fillet Chicken Sandwich Salads SIDES: Mash Potato Cole Slaw Vegetable Rice Biscuits

Lunch • Dinner

124

BREAKFAST: Croissantwich with Ham or Bacon Pancakes French Toast Eggs Bacon Hash Browns LUNCH: Whopper Stacker Veggie Burger BK Fish Original Chicken Sandwich Salads

Aptly named for the vastly differing atmospheres between floors, LeVeLs is a dynamic bar and lounge with an alluring array of wines by the glass to accompany its eclectic sushi menu of flambéed, crunchy, sweet and classic rolls.

Enjoy alfresco dining on the stylish wooden deck or the semi-private patio or unwind indoors with the lively ambiance of the Pub or even the Sushi Bar. More formal dining is available on the 2nd floor Lounge LeVeL or rather relax and chill on one of the many leather arm chairs and plush sofas scattered throughout.

For intimate or private evenings, the luxurious Ultra LeVeL on the 3rd floor is available.

L e Ve L s … M o r e than just a night out!

Menu Sample Ceviche Nikkei

Medley of Seafood with a Ceviche Salsa served with Sweet Potato Tempura Hiroshima Maki

Ebi Furai, Scallops, Parmesan Cheese, Acevichado Sauce Godzilla

Ebi Furai, Cream Cheese, Cucumber, Kanikama, Chive, Crunchy Flakes, Eel Sauce, Wasabi Sauce Crunchy Roulette (LeVeLs Sushi Pizza)

Salmon, Tuna, Yellowtail, Tobiko, Acevichado Sauce Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Take Away Available • Bar • Dinner

Restaurants

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

125

Restaurants

Bois Cano & Tiki Village Kapok Hotel, 16–18 Cotton Hill, St. Clair, Trinidad Reservations: (868) 622-KPOK (5765) Fax: (868) 622-9677 E-mail: stay@kapokhotel.com Choose from two of the best under one roof.

Tiki Village is a unique Asian-Polynesian restaurant, situated on the eighth floor of Kapok Hotel. Offering a stunning view of the capital city and the Savannah. Feast on sumptuous à la Carte lunches and dinners.

Enjoy Dim Sum Sundays at Tiki Village.

Bois Cano Bistro and Bar is the ideal place to rendezvous and relax. Sip an exotic cocktail and enjoy Trini-flavoured dishes under a starry sky. Whatever your mood, Bois Cano will provide an experience that will linger. Enjoy our Bois Cano Hour Monday to Friday 4:00 pm to 7:00 pm, Two for One Drink Specials on Selected Beverages.

Menu Sample TIKI VILLAGE: OUR SPECIAL POLYNESIAN DELIGHT

Ruby Tuesday

Texas de Brazil

MovieTowne Complex, Port-of-Spain Tel: (868) 624-6566 Fax: (868) 624-0001

Level 2 Fiesta Plaza Movie Towne Invaders Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 623-0022

Grand Bazaar, Churchill Roosevelt Hwy Tel: (868) 663-6566 Fax: (868) 663-7875 Price Plaza, Chaguanas Tel: (868) 665-5369 Fax: (868) 665-3742 E-mail: dachin@rubytuesdaytrinidad.com Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

From our bountiful Fresh Garden bar and forktender ribs to the best premium handcrafted burgers, Ruby Tuesday makes every effort to ensure you get the best casual dining experience. You can expect the same friendly atmosphere and great service at any of our three locations: MovieTowne, Port of Spain; the City of Grand Bazaar and Price Plaza in Chaguanas.

Ruby Tuesday – More Choices, More Taste, More Fun!

Menu Sample Menu Sample LOBSTER TAILS

A combination of the most delicate and delectable hors d’oeuvres

Broiled to perfection and served with fresh steamed broccoli and rice pilaf.

SHRIMP SCAMPI

CHICKEN FRESCO

Selected shrimp engulfed with a spicy garlic and butter sauce

A grilled chicken breast topped with seasonal vineripened tomatoes, lemon-butter sauce and a splash of balsamic vinaigrette. Served with fresh steamed broccoli and mashed potatoes.

BOIS CANO: BOIS CANO ATLANTIC GRILLED SALMON

With Coconut Rum sauce served with steak fries and salad

PREMIUM HANDCRAFTED COCKTAILS

Mango Mojito & Strawberry Margarita

TRINI SUNSET

126

Fixed pricing (All you can eat) SEASONAL SALAD AREA

Aged French cheeses Marinated portobello Brazilian pasta salad Smoked salmon Brazilian black beans with pork Lobster Bisque VARIOUS CUTS OF BEEF, LAMB, PORK, CHICKEN and BRAZILIAN SAUSAGE

Brazilian picanha Hearty flank steak Parmesan-crusted pork

Chicken wrapped in bacon Rack of Lamb Filet Mignon

BRAZILIAN COCKTAIL CAIPIRINIHA

Our signature cocktail with fresh fruit and sugar muddled and served shaken with pura cachaça.

Rum, Passion Oasis, Pineapple Juice, Cherry Juice, Sprite, Lime & Passoa Available for Functions • Take Away • Lunch • Dinner

Texas de Brazil is an authentic BrazillianAmerican churrascaria (steak house) offering you an interactive dining experience unlike anything else in Trinidad and Tobago!

Treat yourself to our 50 to 60 seasonal salad area and traditional side items. When you are ready for meat, turn your card to green and prepare to be swarmed by a troop of carvers generously serving various cuts of meat until you can say, “No mas!” An extensive wine list, freshly made signature cocktails, and many decadent desserts are available to complete your dining experience.

Open daily Lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Dinner from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Lunch • Dinner

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Lunch • Dinner • Available for Functions

Restaurants

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

127

Restaurants

Waterfront Restaurant

Angelo’s Italian Restaurant

Hyatt Regency Trinidad 1 Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad, WI Tel: (868) 623 2222 www.trinidad.hyatt.com facebook.com/hyattregencytrinidad

38 Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook Tel: (868) 628-5551 / 628-7854 Fax: (868) 622-9562 E-mail: angelos@flowtrinidad.com

Waterfront Restaurant invites you to enjoy local and international cuisine with contemporary flair. Featuring fresh seafood, mouth-watering steaks and a bounty of delicious tropical fare, Waterfront promises to take you on an amazing culinary excursion. Savor authentic flavours, magnificent presentations and gorgeous tropical décor as you dine indoor or outdoor, with amazing views of the Gulf of Paria. For a truly special dining experience, have a seat at our Chef’s Table and take in a front-row view of the action in our open kitchen.

Menu Sample LUNCH Chef’s Daily Special

Includes our “signature” salad bar l soup of now l entrée of the day Massala Chicken Linguine - Uncultivated mushrooms l saffron l coconut crème sauce DINNER Pepper Crusted Marinated Tuna Loin Small green salad l teriyaki sauce l grenadine dressing Roasted Red Snapper - Braised bok choy l wild

Menu Sample PASTA

Linguine Frutti di Mare – Linguine pasta tossed with lobster, clams, squid, shrimp and muscles in a sauce made of plum tomatoes, garlic & basil sauce.

Tel: (868) 297 5760 E-mail: rosscostt@gmail.com Find us on Facebook: facebook.com/rosscostt Welcome to your better burger experience. At Rossco’s, we’re giving you the real deal: worldclass burgers made from scratch, using only the best ingredients available. We make our patties daily with nothing but 100% angus beef and a whole lotta love. We dress our burgers to grill, Rossco-style.

Not only do we have the best burgers in town but we offer a premium bar and lounge experience with exquisite premium cocktails. Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. till.

Menu Sample Get me to the Greek

Ground Angus beef, feta cheese, fresh basil leaves, black olives, tomato, balsamic vinegar.

Black Sheep

Ground lamb, Arabic spices, cabbage, tomato, garlic sauce.

French Kiss

Ground Angus beef with blue cheese mixed into patty; topped with a red wine reduction and onions.

SEAFOOD

Bess Ting Burger

Salmone alla Messinese - Atlantic pink salmon resting on a layer of sautéed spinach dressed with a sauce made of cream, capers & truffle oil.

Angus beef, bacon, pineapple, cheddar cheese, hot BBQ sauce, tomato, lettuce, onion and chadon beni sauce.

STEAK

SIGNATURE COCKTAILS: Cucumber Collins

Filetto alla Toscana – Prime fillet steak in a cream brandy sauce with mushrooms, tomatoes and tarragon.

Gin, lime juice, sugar, fresh cucumber, topped with a splash of soda water.

CHICKEN

Caipirinha

curd l brandy tuille l raspberry sorbet Crepe Roulade - White chocolate mousseline l Belgian ganache l poached berries l vanilla ice cream

Pollo Fontina – Breast of chicken filled with baby spinach, Fontina cheese and pine nuts, resting on a Tuscan style tomato sauce with Chianti wine.

French Martini

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Sunday Brunch

Lunch • Dinner

mushrooms l citrus corn salsa

DESSERT Tropical Twist - Banana pineapple cake l mango

128

Calabrian-born Chef Angelo Cofone brings to Trinidad the authentic southern flavors of Italy.

With over twenty years of experience working both in Italy and London, he has brought his magical culture to this island, putting Trinidad a cut above the rest. Diners are mesmerised by his mouth-watering cuisine and the charm and warmth that he generates. Together with his highly trained staff, wife and two of his three sons, they have produced a restaurant that is the finest of dining. Reservations necessary.

Open Monday to Friday.

Lunch from 11:30 a.m to 2:30 p.m.

Dinner from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Saturdays—Dinner from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Rossco’s

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Cachaca, fresh lime and sugar.

Vodka, Chambord and pineapple juice.

Lunch • Dinner

Restaurants

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

129

Restaurants

HAKKA Restaurant & Bar 4 Taylor Street, Woodbrook, P.O.S Tel: 622-0004 E-mail: info@hakkarestaurant.com www.hakkarestaurant.com

Royal Castle

97 Circular Rd., San Fernando Reservations: (868) 652-Wall (9255) / 657-5050 / 652-2583 Fax: (868) 653-3834 Email: soongsgreatwall@gmail.com

Royal Castle was incorporated in Trinidad and Tobago in 1968 as the first local fast food restaurant with both dine-in and takeaway facilities. The restaurant had only 12 employees, and opened at the same location as the present day Frederick Street outlet in Port of Spain. What started out as a small, family-run restaurant today employs over 300 persons locally and has evolved into one of the most successful quick-service restaurant chains in the region. Today, Royal Castle offers a wide variety of items, including chicken, fish, sandwiches, vegetable burgers, salads, rotisserie chicken and a wide selection of beverages.

‘Drive-thru’ services and home and office delivery available at select branches.

Locations nationwide.

Hakka cuisine is an elegant fusion of Chinese recipes with distinct Indian spices and flavours.

Over 100 years ago, the original recipes traveled from Mei Zhou, China to India with the Hakka Chinese people, who eventually settled in Calcutta. Over several generations, the marriage of oriental techniques and Indian ingredients evolved into a gastronomic explosion for the taste buds. Our chefs have traveled from the top Hakka restaurants in Calcutta to meticulously prepare dishes that define the sights, tastes and aromas of the HAKKA experience.

Dining: 11 a.m. - 11 p.m. Monday - Thursday 11 a.m. - 12 a.m. Friday and Saturday 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. Sunday Take Away: 11a.m - 7:30 p.m. Monday -Saturday

The Great Wall of China is the world’s longest wall built entirely by hand, making it a remarkable engineering feat. Today, Soong’s Great Wall prides itself in that same personal attention that builds long lasting relationships making us a world-class restaurant. Relax and be pampered by our highly trained staff personally instructed in the art of making you feel welcome. Our famous Wednesday Night Buffet offers succulent lobster among many other delectable dishes. Don’t miss our Sunday Lunch Buffet.

Welcome the experience - we know you’ll be back again and again!

Menu Sample

Menu Sample

APPETIZER Chicken Lollipop

Drumettes marinated with garlic, wild coriander and our special Calcutta red chili paste, then fried to perfection and served with a spicy tomato and wild coriander sauce.

Menu Sample Chicken Combo

PHOENIX BASKET A combination of assorted

2pieces + 2 side orders + 16 oz soft drink (choice of side breast + leg or center breast + wing or thigh + wing)

SIZZLING TENDERLOIN BEEF

Fish Combo 2 pieces fish + side order (with mini salad) +16 oz soft drink

seafood, meats and mixed vegetables presented in an edible basket.

Beef tenderloin slices stir-fried in black bean sauce and served on a sizzling hot platter SESAME SHRIMP

MAIN COURSE Konjee Crispy Chicken

Golden battered shrimp smothered in a delectable cream sauce and sprinkled with lightly toasted sesame seeds

Moist slices of chicken breast crispy fried, heated with our special Calcutta red chili paste and tossed with onions and scallions in a sweet and spicy Konjee sauce.

LOBSTER CANTONESE

DESSERT Caramel Cheesecake Flan

DASHEEN PORK

A heavenly marriage of cheesecake and crème caramel; sweet, creamy, decadent.

Lunch • Dinner • Parking Available

130

Soong’s Great Wall

Chunks of the finest lobster delicately cooked with a cream & butter sauce

Side Orders Fries

Cole Slaw

Green Salad Potato Salad

Slices of pork & dasheen layered and steamed in a special sauce Private upper level for special functions & seminars

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Lunch • Dinner • Locations nationwide

Restaurants

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

131

Restaurants

Zanzibar

Kaizan Sushi

Subway

Shop # 54 Fiesta Plaza, Invaders Bay, MovieTowne Tel: (868) 627-0752 Fax: (868) 627-0713

Shop #7, Fiesta Plaza, Invaders Bay, MovieTowne Tel: (868) 623-5437, 623-5370

Head Office Tel: (868) 662-5716, 645-8158, 663-9567, 662-6848, 662-0092 Fax: 662-3250

Zanzibar by the Sea Peake Marina, Western Main Road, Chaguaramas Tel: (868) 634-3346 Head Office Tel: (868) 645-0712 Welcome to Zanzibar and Zanzibar by the Sea—a truly different kind of dining and entertainment experience. Located at Fiesta Plaza, Invader’s Bay in the MovieTowne Complex and now at Peake Marina in Chaguaramas, Zanzibar offers memorable dining and “liming” in a unique environment; an inimitable blend of Trinidadian and international styles. Experience fine dining in a casual atmosphere. Join us for lunch and dinner Monday to Sunday and choose from our broad menu featuring international dishes prepared by our celebrated chefs.

From 10:30 p.m., witness the incredible transformation from fine restaurant to trendy, sophisticated night-bar each night. So put Zanzibar on your ‘to do’ list during your visit to Trinidad and Tobago.

Menu Sample

Welcome to Kaizan Sushi, a truly different kind of dining and entertainment experience.

Located at Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne Complex, Kaizan Sushi offers memorable dining in a unique setting. So put Kaizan Sushi on your to do list during your visit to Trinidad & Tobago.

Call our head office at 645-0712.

Menu Sample KAIZAN SUSHI Tom Yum Talay

This spicy seafood soup, aside from being one of the most popular soups in Thailand, offers many health benefits due to its combination of herbs and spices.

Azuki Aisu Kurimu

The best selling ice cream in Japan and very popular in Hawaii, the Philippines, and throughout the Pacific Islands. Enjoy the natural flavor and texture of Azuki Beans. Did you know that Japanese ice cream is known as “aisu kurimu”? It is pronounced with a Japanese accent, “eye-sue-coo-reem-mu”. Trust us, it’s really good.

Branches: Diego Martin; two locations in St. James; five locations in Port of Spain; Barataria; MovieTowne; Woodbrook; Maraval; Curepe; UWI Campus; Valpark Shopping Plaza; Valsayn; Arima; Trincity Mall; Price Plaza; Gulf City Mall & Car Park; San Fernando; Point Lisas; Three locations in Tobago; Debe; Pointe a Pierre; Princes Town; Sangre Grande; Point Fortin; La Romaine; Tunapuna; Glencoe; Montrose; Mount Hope; Piarco International Airport; Mayaro; Siparia; Penal.

Menu Sample Breads: Italian white, wheat, parmesan, roasted garlic and honey oat.

Popular sandwiches: Chicken Teriyaki, Meat Balls, Tuna Each sandwich consist of bread, meat, cheese, onions, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers and pickles, plus other optional condiments like pineapple chunks, jalapeños, garlic sauce, olive oil and many more.

Pasta Al Salmone Affumicato

Smoked Atlantic salmon mixed with penne pasta cooked in a creamy vodka sauce with green peas and capers.

Lunch • Dinner

132

Lunch • Dinner

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner

Restaurants

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

133

Restaurants

More Vino | More Sushi

Lime Inn

Port of Spain: 23 O’ Connor St., Woodbrook Tel: (868) 622-VINO (8466) Fax: (868) 622-2710 San Fernando: 33 Scott St., San Fernando Tel: (868) 223-VINO (8466) Email: info@morevino.com www.morevino.com Facebook (facebook.com/morevino) Twitter (twitter.com/morevinosushi)

Acajou Hotel, Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670-3771 Fax: (868) 670-4566 E-mail: info@acajoutrinidad.com www.acajoutrinidad.com

More Vino was established in 2005 as a premium wine retailer and quickly became the ultimate ‘liming’ spot for sipping on fine wine.

Fast forward to 2011 and you have Trinidad’s premier wine bistro, More Vino, coupled with the country’s most authentic sushi bar, More Sushi, for an eclectic fusion of Japanese and European cuisine with a friendly, local vibe.

Choose from a wide variety of international wines, gourmet food, premium spirits, beers, cigars and hookahs and enjoy the unique ambience that is More Vino | More Sushi.

Whether you’re in North or South Trinidad, drop by for lunch, dinner or just a drink and see for yourself why everyone keeps coming back for…

More!

Menu Sample Creamy soup

crab

Gaspacho with parmesan cheese & “gambas marrakech” Cucumber soup with chili-glazed scallops Acajou chicken salad Tuna fish salad with walnuts, Gorgonzola & roasted beetroot Pesto linguine & grilled eggplant topped with parmesan cheese

Menu Sample

Caribbean rub chicken with pineapple and papaya salsa (picture)

APPETIZER More Vino Famous Crab Dip

Grilled red snapper with lemon grass, grapefruit salsa, pack choi & basmati rice

Seasoned crab salad topped with grilled Parmesean and served with Tsum Tsum crackers

Duck breast with anjomole, pumpkin creme & roast root vegetables

CHEF SPECIAL Chicken Teriyaki Risotto

BBQ pork loin with roast vegetables, long beans & cauliflower creme

Italian mushrooms risotto with dried tomatoes, pesto relish, and Asian grilled chicken breast More Sushi Signature Roll Volcano

Fresh tuna wrapped around a bed of spicy rice topped with fried salmon skin Open from Mon. to Sat. at 11 a.m.

Lunch • Dinner • Take Away

134

Reflecting our own mix of Sweden and Trinidad, our menu is a lovingly created marriage between local and continental influences.

Come and relax in a setting that will completely take your breath away.

Coconut milk & lime-poached King fish fillet with pack choi and basmati rice

Nut and chocolate tart with grapefruit sorbet Grilled pineapple with rum sabayon & coconut ice cream

360° Degrees Restaurant 14th Floor, Crowne Plaza Trinidad, Wrightson Road, Port of Spain.

Tel: (868) 625-3361/8 Fax (868) 625-4166 email: eoffice@cplazahotel.com; sales@cplazahotel.com Located on the 14th floor of the Crowne Plaza Trinidad, the 360 Degrees Restaurant is the only revolving restaurant in the Caribbean which combines a truly creative menu in a unique environment to create Trinidad & Tobago’s most unique dining experience.

The restaurant offers a panoramic view of the capital city and surrounding areas over a 45-minute rotation ‘through 360 degrees’, which allows our guests to enjoy a different view with each course. This restaurant is open every Sunday for Sunday brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and also for special events.

(Reservations are recommended)

Menu Sample Shrimp bisque Roasted pork loin served with peach walnuts in a red wine demi glaze Seared marinated chicken with an island rum coconut sauce Stewed lamb seasoning

with

Caribbean

spice

21 desserts Wide selection of salads

Sorbet - assorted seasonal flavors

Lunch • Dinner

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Lunch • Dinner • Sunday Brunch

Restaurants

Chaud Restaurant 2 Queen’s Park West, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 623-0375, 624-2885 Fax: 1 (868) 625-4056 E-mail: reservation@chaudkm.com www.chaudkm.com

Chaud Café & Wine Bar One Woodbrook Place Damien Street, Woodbrook Tel: (868) 628-9845 www.chaudcafe@gmail.com

Chaud is the result of a vision held by Khalid Mohammed since he was a young chef. His distinctive cuisine, intense focus and passion for food have made his dream a reality.

Chaud’s elegant and intimate dining room boasts views of the Queen’s Park Savannah.

Our private dining room, the Savannah Room, accommodates up to thirty guests for seated breakfast, lunch or dinner parties and fifty guests for standing cocktail receptions.

We are open for lunch Monday to Saturday from 11am to 3pm and for dinner Monday to Saturday from 6pm to 10:30pm

Step out of the hustle of Port of Spain and – with a sigh of relief – step into the warm glow of Chaud Café & Wine Bar. Good laughs, exotic world music, cooling breezes on the deck.

Delicately prepared gourmet food.

Based on the tradition of Spanish tapas and Lebanese mezze, we offer small to mediumsized plates. This is gourmet eating at its friendliest. Dine in or take-away a sandwich or salad at lunch, or enjoy an evening out with family and friends. Kick back with a bottle of wine, order several small plates and pass them around the table. Enjoy the small pleasures of life.

This is not fine dining. This is not a bar.

This is Chaud Café.

Menu Sample

Menu Sample

DINNER: MAIN COURSES Chilean seabass, oyster mushroomarugula salad, cauliflower ‘risotto’, vegetable tourné, pumpkin velouté Lavender-honey glazed duck breast, bbq pulled duck crêpe, bok choy, teapoached shitakes, carrot-ginger purée, dried cherry gastrique Char broiled 12oz. dry aged, new york strip steak, smoked fleur de sel, shallot sauce, cheddar-thyme popovers, watercress, onion rings

Lunch • Dinner • Private Functions

Chaud Creole 6 Nook Avenue, St. Ann’s Tel: (868) 621-2002 E-mail: reservation@chaudcreole.com www.chaudcreole.com Welcome to Chaud Creole, the epitome of fusion between contemporary dining and traditional Trinidad and Tobago cuisines.

Owner Chef Khalid Mohammed is the epicurean master behind the original Chaud restaurant at 2 Queen’s Park West. At Chaud Creole, located at 6 Nook Avenue, St. Ann’s, he reintroduces T&T locals and visitors to the flavours, fresh ingredients and sustainable cooking practices behind earthy Caribbean gastronomy at Chaud Creole. You’ll sit in airconditioned comfort, surrounded by Caribbean décor and art, to sample delicious rustic stews, curries and casseroles developed, reinvented and plated with modern flair.

Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday; Sunday brunch.

Private dining room available.

Menu Sample

LUNCH

Parma ham, brie & green apple tartine Garlic-studded roasted lamb leg flatbread Mediterranean chicken salad SMALL PLATES/DINNER

Char-grilled NY strip steak Seared diver scallops in saffron broth Littleneck clams & chorizo Warm mushroom salad on toast Reservations not required

Guava BBQ Kingfish Banana leaf-wrapped grouper; mêlée herbs; citrus salad Fried Tobago flying fish; green seasoning aioli; tomato relish Jerk pork spare ribs Portuguese garlic pork tenderloin; pineapple salsa Geera-crusted rack of lamb; roasted garlic jus Double cut oxtail ‘pepperpot’ Coffee-cocoa-chilli rubbed filet mignon steak; tamarind steak sauce

Lunch • Dinner • Sunday Brunch • Private dining room available.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

135

Restaurants

The Verandah 10 Rust Street, St. Clair Tel: (868) 622-6287 E-mail: verandah.food@gmail.com Set in an old fashioned St. Clair residence, the Verandah offers dining either indoors (air conditioned), on our breezy verandah or in a picturesque courtyard. The menu changes daily, offering a blend of international dishes with a very strong Caribbean influence, often described as “freestyle Caribbean Cuisine”.

The Verandah is open for lunch Monday to Friday from 11.30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and for dinner on Thursday and Saturday from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. We offer Afternoon Tea every 2nd Wednesday of the month from 4 p.m. to 6.30 p.m.

We also cater for private parties, functions and office meetings.

Menu Sample Callaloo soup with coo coo $32 Fillet of mahi mahi poached in a rich tomato creole sauce, topped with sweet peppers, onions and capers $98 Fruity bread pudding with rum custard sauce $40 Or A watermelon, tomato and black olive salad with toasted almonds and feta cheese, dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette $34 Coconut crusted shrimp with our house mango chutney $135 Creamy homemade barbadine ice cream $25 Call us for our full menu.

Lunch • Dinner • Afternoon Tea

136

Veni Mangé Restaurant 67A Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook, Port of Spain Reservations: (868) 624-4597 E-mail: venimange@gmail.com www.venimange.com FB: Veni Mange Restaurant For typical West Indian cuisine, Veni Mangé is a must! Veni Mangé (Creole Patois for “Come & Eat”) is a favourite for friends and visitors. An old colonial home with demerara windows, colourful décor, tropical plants and local art, the restaurant epitomizes Caribbean ambience. The menu changes daily, offering high quality local dishes in a beautiful tropical setting.

Fodor’s Guide said that Veni Mangé had “The best lunches in town …” and the restaurant has been featured in Patricia Schulz’s travel book 1000 Places to See Before You Die. The New York Times praised the restaurant’s culinary quality: “A meal at Veni Mangé is the wisest bet!”

Mon. to Fri.: Lunch from 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Wed. and Fri.: Dinner from 7 p.m.

House of Jaipur

Indian Lifestyle Boutique and Tearoom 14 O’Connor Street, Woodbrook, Port of Spain, Trinidad Reservations: (868) 624-7465 Email: hojp@tstt.net.tt www.houseofjaipur.com Welcome to the destination where culture echoes, tradition speaks, and beauty enthralls. House of Jaipur invites you to enjoy the vivid kaleidoscope of the orient and immerse yourself in the timeless mystery and beauty of India. Have a cup of chai in our quaint Indian tearoom and indulge in some of our delicious Indian appetisers and chutneys made daily by our in-house chef. We invite you to be inspired. We invite you to cross the threshold of the Indian house and discover in it an extraordinary variety of style and décor.

Log onto our website at www.houseofjaipur. com and discover the variety of teas we offer and our delightful selection of Indian savories and sweets.

Menu Sample KAMA SUTRA CHAI

Menu Sample $150 – 200 per person (taxes included) Callaloo soup Chip Chip cocktail Eggplant fritters with pineapple salsa Stewed beef with dumplings Salmon fillets with walnut & herb Stuffing in Creole Sauce Vegetarian black-eyed peas croquettes with mango sauce Grilled shrimp, mahi mahi, or chicken with garlic, tamarind sauce or salsas Homemade coconut ice cream Rum fruit trifle

Lunch • Dinner

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

In the spirit of sensuousness and ancient Indian traditions, this recipe is based on a ancient blend of spices as old as the Kama Sutra Text.

SABZI MASALA CUTLETS

Spicy cutlets made with fresh vegetables, almonds and Indian cottage cheese pan fried into a crispy patty.

NAN KHATAI

Spiced shortbread cookies flavored with cardamom Opening hours Boutique – Mon. to Sat., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Tearoom – Tue. to Sat. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Take Away Available

Restaurants

Irie Bites

Eat It

El Pecos Grill

71A Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook Tel/Fax: (868) 622-7364

#2 Scott Street, San Fernando Tel: (868) 653-2848 Roundabout Marabella Tel: (868) 652-9596 E-mail: eatitrestaurant@gmail.com

80 Ariapita Avenue, Corner Petra Street, Woodbrook Tel: (868) 628-9908

153 Western Main Road, St James Tel/Fax: (868) 622-6725 www.iriebitesjerk.com Unique and flavorful, Irie Bites combines the earthy taste of good old Jamaica with the excitement of Trini cuisine. Our signature brand Irie Bites provides mouth-watering authentic Jamaican jerk and smoked BBQ meats. For those on the go or busy at the office, there’s no need to sacrifice quality and value. Simply call, place your order and collect. Let our red, green, yellow and black sign lead you to a true taste of Jamaica.

Irie Bites – savour the experience!

Menu Sample Meats with two sides Pork – Smoked BBQ/ Jerk Pork Ribs – Smoked BBQ Chicken – Smoked BBQ / Jerk Fish – Grilled/Jerk Lamb – BBQ/Jerk Side Bites Sauteed cassava/ plantain Jamaican rice & peas Stewed lentils Green salad And many more !

Daily Lunch Specials

Monday – Stewed fried fish and two sides Tuesday – Chicken pelau, Cole Slaw, Fresh Salad Wednesday – Jamaican curry goat, white rice, green fig, green salad Thursday – Stewed oxtails, red beans, white rice, green salad Friday – Stewed pork, calaloo, provisions Saturday – Ackee and salt fish, provisions OR Beef and oxtail soup

Take Away Available

Eat It is a high-quality grilled food restaurant with an international standard and appeal.

Our menu features a tasty array of grilled meats, seafood, sandwiches and salads, all complemented with our world famous Barbeque sauce. Indulge in our signature oven-baked barbeque chicken and our 5-ounce premium beef Burgernomic burger.

Quality is a hallmark of our restaurants; visit us today and enjoy the taste of quality within a modern environment. We are “The Taste of Quality”.

84a Ariapita Avenue, Corner De Verteuil Street, Woodbrook Tel: (868) 622-9713 Royal Palm Plaza, 7 Saddle Road, Maraval Tel: (868) 628-4723 Diego Martin Main Road (West Bee’s Supermarket) Tel: (868) 63-PECOS El Pecos offers you the best in fast casual dining, with a solid reputation for consistently good food and value for money. At any location you can expect the same mouthwatering, hearty, home-style cooking that has become the El Pecos trademark. Indulge yourself in our delicious selection of meats, all fire grilled or slow cooked to perfection and served with a variety of superb sides.

Simply serve yourself, weigh and pay for your food by the pound. Complete your meal with one of our sweet tantalising treats! So come in and let us take your taste buds on a sumptuous adventure!

Menu Sample

Sample Menu (TTS35.00 per lb.)

COMBO MEALS

MEATS rotisserie chicken jerk chicken bbq ribs jerk pork bbq pigtail stewed beef

Chicken; 2 regular Sides, 1 dinner roll; 16 oz Soft Drink Fish; 2 regular sides, 1 dinner roll; 16 oz Soft Drink Lamb; 2 regular sides, 1 dinner roll; 16 oz Soft Drink SPECIALTY ITEMS

Grilled chicken salad ; Grilled shrimp salad; Veggie kebabs PREMIUM SIDES

Baked potatoes, potato salad SANDWICHES

Burgernomic burger; Chicken breast; Fish burger Call & Pick Up Service Like us on Facebook

bbq chicken fried chicken bbq lamb bbq pork grill fish

SIDES festive rice macaroni pie buttered cassava parsley potato green fig salad macaroni salad green salad peas/beans chunky vegetables melongene ratoullie breadfruit/plantain steak fries sweet potato fries

Try our 100% fire grilled beef burgers Saturday Specials: Oxtail and beef soup, pig foot souse

Serve yourself • Pay by the pound

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

137

Restaurants

Mélange Restaurant

Apsara

Tamnak Thai

40 Ariapita Avenue and Cornelio Street Woodbrook Tel/Fax: (868) 628-8687 E-mail: info@melangetrinidad.com

Level 1, # 13 Queen’s Park Savannah East, Port-of-Spain Tel: 623–7659, 627-7364, 625-6061, 621- 0459 Fax: 625-6061 E-mail: reservations.apsara@mail.tt

Level 2, #13 Queen’s Park Savannah East, Port-of-Spain, Trinidad Tel: (868) 625–0647, 625-9715, 625-6061, 621-0459 • Fax: 625-6061 E-mail: reservations.tamnakthai@mail.tt

Mélange is an elegant 60-seater restaurant where guests enjoy a selection of international favourites fused with Caribbean bursts of flavours. The spirit of the restaurant is reflected in presentations that are unmatched, service that is friendly and indulgent, and a contemporary ambience that is both relaxed and romantic. A casual dining menu is also available. Renowned for seafood, roast rack of lamb and the best-tasting steaks on the island.

Open for lunch daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and for dinner from 6:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. Call for reservations.

Menu Sample Passion fruit-glazed

TT$165.00

Atlantic pink salmon Poached Pink Salmon Fillet complemented by Dijonnaise Sauce.

Baby Back Ribs

TT$175.00

“ Fall off the bone” baby back ribs finished with barbeque guava glaze.

Chargrilled Ribeye Steak

TT$255.00

Eight-ounce Ribeye chargrilled to your specifications and complemented by red onion confit.

Linguini Diablo

TT$155.00

Grilled marinated chicken breast served on a bed of linguine tossed in mild marinara sauce with fresh basil and portobello mushrooms.

Available for Functions • Take Away • Lunch • Dinner

138

Apsara is the only authentic Indian restaurant in Trinidad and Tobago. Chefs Ramsingh and Sahab work tirelessly to ensure that diners experience the very best cuisine their homeland has to offer, from tantalising tandooris, to world famous Lamb Rogan Josh. Specialising in mainly northern Indian cuisine, Apsara has an extensive menu suitable for vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike. The wine list offers an extensive and interesting selection. Open for lunch and dinner Mondays to Saturdays.

Also open for lunch on Sundays. Reservations are recommended. All major credit cards are accepted. Free valet parking. We cater inhouse functions as well as offsite. Private rooms are available for 10 to 30 people.

Menu Sample APPETIZER MACHI TIKKA

Fresh boneless fish cubed & marinated in lime juice, yogurt & Indian spices, roasted in the tandoor.

MAIN COURSE TANDOORI ZINGA

Jumbo shrimp marinated in yogurt, fresh lime juice & Indian spices. Lightly cooked in the Tandoor.

PANEER TIKKA MASALA(Vegetarian Dish) Paneer tikka cooked with fresh green chillies, ginger, garlic and tomatoes. Hot & satisfying!

DESSERT RASMALAI

Tamnak Thai is set in a lush tropical garden, and offers the best cuisine that the Royal Kingdom of Thailand has to offer. Situated around the historical and prestigious Queen’s Park Savannah, patrons are guaranteed a memorable dining experience. Chefs Charoon and Prakasit preside over the kitchen, preparing dishes like the popular Tom Yum Gung (hot & sour shrimp soup), Gaeng Kaew-wan Gai (green curry chicken) and Chef’s special Pad Thai. An attractively priced luncheon special is available daily, with an interesting and extensive variety of wines. Open for lunch and dinner Mondays to Fridays; open on Saturdays and Sundays for dinner only from 6 p.m. We offer private rooms for hosting groups of 30, 60 or 250 people; we also cater external functions.

Menu Sample APPETIZER Chicken Satay

Strips of grilled marinated chicken served with a cucumber & peanut sauce MAIN COURSE Tom Yam Kung - Spicy & sour prawn soup: Thai’s

famous spicy soup, prepared in a shrimp bouillon.

Refined and powerful Neur Kra-Ta-Ron - Sautéed beef on hot plat, with mushroom, spring onion, red & green peppers, carrots & onions.

DESSERT Mango Passion Fruit Cheesecake

Homemade Paneer (cottage cheese) served in sweetened milk, garnished with pistachios

Layers of creamy smooth passion fruit and mangoinfused buttermilk cheesecake, topped with tart passion fruit curd, finished with a shimmering glaze of passion fruit and mango.

Elegantly Casual • Sunday Brunch • Bar • Air Conditioned • Take away available

Elegantly Casual• Sunday Brunch • Bar • Air Conditioned • Take away available

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Restaurants

Flair the Restaurant

Nichossa Restaurant

Yogurt Land

#2 Taylor Street, Woodbrook, Port of Spain Reservation: (868) 628-1606 Facebook page: Flair restaurant and bar

Rainbow Plaza, Gulf View Link Road Gulf View, San Fernando Tel: 868 652 8912 E-mail: nichossa@live.com

The Falls at Westmall Level 2 Food Court Entrance Tel: 868 637 3229

This cafe-styled restaurant and specialty bakery offers diners a classy, casual atmosphere.

Nichossa opens Monday to Friday from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., offering American-styled breakfasts and a wide selection for lunch and beyond!

Our baked goods include local favourites like currants rolls, coconut drops and beef pies, to decadent international desserts like flan caramel and tiramisu.

The first of its kind in Trinidad, Yogurt Land offers a self-serve frozen yogurt experience where health, taste and fun swirl into one.

Dedicated to providing only premium yogurt and toppings, we offer an extensive variety of rotating flavors and fresh toppings to light up your taste buds. Choose your cup and dispense all or any mix of the 10 daily offered flavors.

Once you have swirled your mix of flavors, you are off to our toppings bar with over 36 toppings to choose from, ranging from Snickers to Fruit Loops to granola to strawberries we have all your favorite candies, cereals, nuts and cakes. You can have them all. Oh and don’t forget the syrup on top. Once you have customised your ideal treat, you then weigh and pay.

“At Yogurt Land you do it your weigh. In fact we insist on it.”

Flair Restaurant is built upon the insatiable desire of many to be where the action is. At Flair, we provide our guests with a unique array of exciting, tasty, healthy and competitively priced international cuisine. We are differentiated by exceptional service and enhanced within an aesthetically pleasing aura of ambience.

We cater for all types of functions.

Buffet lunch Monday to Friday 11: 30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dine from our à la carte menu every evening from 4 p.m. and all day Saturday.

Menu Sample STARTERS Seafood Tostada Forestiere

Baby shrimp, surimi, and mushrooms on a crisp fried flour tortilla topped with pepper jack cheese and finished under the broiler for melting goodness.

Guacamole and sour cream.

Boneless Duck seasoned with Flair’s Spice combination and Roasted

Orange honey thyme reduction.

Wasabi Dusted Ahi Tuna

Seared rare with steamed jasmine rice fresh bean sprouts, wakame and teriyaki reduction.

Banana Crème Brulee

A creamy brulee infused with banana liquor and topped with caramelised bananas.

Lunch • Dinner • Catering for functions

Menu Sample Breakfast: Omelettes, French toast and a variety of breakfast sandwiches Salads: Including “Trini” Shark Salad, Caesar Salads (plain or with shrimp, chicken or tuna) Cafe Meals: Blackened Salmon, Stuffed Chicken Breast, Roast Beef with gravy, Pumpkin and Callaloo Soup Our Taste of Italy: Lasagna, Fettuccine Alfredo & Cannelloni.

Sandwiches: Freshly made hoagie bread with choices including BBQ Chicken, Roast Beef, Ham & Cheese, ‘Meat Mouth’ and Tuna Burgers: Salmon, Beef and Veggie Bakery & Desserts: Pies, Puffs, Cakes, Cheesecakes, Black Forest Cake, Red Velvet Cake Beverages: Fresh Juices, Specialty Coffees, Variety of Teas & Smoothies

Catering for meetings and functions available

Menu Sample Flavors: Can’t Believe It’s Not Ice Cream: Vanilla, Cookies ‘N Cream, Coconut, Cappuccino, Banana Cream Pie..

Traditional Greek: Original, Pomegranate…

Sorbets: Mango, Pineapple…

Seasonal: Ponche A Crème, Pumpkin Pie...

Toppings: Candies, Chocolates, Nuts, Cereals, Cakes, Brownies, Cookies, Sprinkles, Fruits And Then Some.

Self-serve Frozen Yogurt

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

139

Restaurants

TAO Sushi

Palki Restaurant

Tel: (868) 324-0001 E-mail: info@tao-sushi.com Find us on Facebook and Twitter

27 Todd Street, San Fernando, Trinidad Tel: (868) 652-1239, 652-5338 E-mail: palkirestaurant@yahoo.com

TAO Sushi is a unique catering service ready to create an ‘urban experience’ for its clients.

‘New-age’ & locally influenced flavours are fused into our menus, signature recipes and presentations. TAO Sushi will enhance and add a contemporary ambience to any event ranging from corporate to commercial to private or public.

Built on a model for complete satisfaction, TAO Sushi is committed to delivering consistent product quality, exceptional service and hospitality to all our clients.

Look out for us at select retail outlets, trendy night lounges and at the hottest events.

Menu Sample SIGNATURE ROLLS Soca Roll

Imitation crab, tuna, salmon, cream cheese, chives, toasted sesame seeds, soca sauce, eel sauce Lime Roll (inspired by Lime.tt) Imitation crab, salmon, cucumber, lemon mayo, lime zest Yellow Roll

Centrapolis Mall 80 Ramsaran Street, Chaguanas, Trinidad Tel: 742-4036, 366-4046 PALKI—Whatever your occasion, PALKI makes it one to remember Palki’s have dedicated every effort to present you with the true gastronomical art of Indian cooking. Encounter the taste of authentic north Indian and Hakka Chinese Cuisine, through the medium of traditional Tandoori, Hakka Chinese, curried dishes and Bengali sweets. One only needs to look at our menu to appreciate the versatility of traditions that stir up one’s taste buds and leave a lingering taste in one’s mouth.

Palki’s exotic Indian cuisine produces sophisticated and elegant food. Our cuisine can grace any major city in the Caribbean.

Good food…Good feelings…Satisfying people’s hunger for life’s simple pleasures.

Open from 11:30 a.m. to 10.30 p.m.

Menu Sample Seafood delicacies Fragrant tender lamb curries Exquisite chicken curries Delicious meatless specialities Basmati rice Traditional breads baked in the Tandoor Mouthwatering condiments

Tuna, salmon, yellow soy paper, green peppers, Japanese mayo Green Roll

Tuna, salmon, green soy pepper, Japanese mayo Atlantis Roll

Seaweed salad, eel, cream cheese, eel sauce Available for Weddings, Functions

140

• Dine in • Take-away • Call for Catering Services

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Ghazal the Indian Grill House Corner of Ariapita Avenue and Ana Street Port of Spain Tel: (868) 222 8006, 375 3658 The philosophy of Ghazal: the Indian Grill House aims to redefine the flavors of Indian cuisine by creating sumptuous modern interpretations of classic traditional flavors.

Located in the heart of the ever-vibrant Ariapita Avenue, hospitality is in our blood and we will make your dining experience as pleasant as you please. Ghazal’s truly unique experience of high class dining with lots of variety, friendly staff and great atmosphere will guarantee you an unforgettable dining experience.

Menu Sample FISH POLLICHATU: Seasoned grilled fish wrapped in

a banana leaf and served on a sizzling platter.

KHADAI SHRIMP: Shrimp cooked with tomatoes, bell

pepper and onions, garnished with red chilli.

KOVALAM SEAFOOD SHRIMP: Ghazal chef

special creation.

PANEER PAKODA: Cube of cottage cheese marinated

with Indian spices.

TAMATAR KI SHOBA: Tomato soup tempered with flavourful Indian seasoning of Masala spices.

KERALA FISH CURRY: Chunks of fresh fish cooked in Indian special sauce made with tomato, ginger and coconut milk.

LAMB ULATHIYATHU: Tawa roasted lamb with sliced coconut and fresh black pepper.

Available for Functions • Take Away • Lunch • Dinner

Restaurants

Daniyel Jones (Bartender)

National Culinary Team wins again It’s almost expected now. T&T’s National Culinary Team again dominated the field at the Taste of the Caribbean 2011, winning 11 awards and medals including Overall Best Team of the Year.

Much is made of the stellar food that the team produces at these competitions, but this year the team’s bartender candidate, Daniyel Jones, also ran away with gold medals for both the rum and vodka cocktail competitions with a blend of internationally known alcohol brands and rustic Trini flavours. Jones also won the Best Cocktail award for his vodka concoction and the Mystery Bar award.

We’ve managed to wrestle away his secret rum and vodka cocktail recipes for you to try out and enjoy at home. Bon appetit!

‘Doo Doo Darling’ Vodka Cocktail Ingredients 1 ½ oz Ketel One vodka 1 ½ oz Ruby Red port 5 shrimp 3 shadon beni leaves ½ cup fresh cucumber 2 bar spoons 100% cane sugar Method Flavour the port with shadon beni leaves and shrimp in a heated sauté pan, then add remaining ingredients, muddle and shake on ice. Pour into a cocktail or martini glass and garnish with slices of cucumber and a cooked shrimp.

‘Mystery Man’ rum cocktail Ingredients 1 ½ oz Zacapa 15-year-old rum ¾ oz Navan Liqueur (Vanilla Liqueur) ¼ oz aniseed liqueur 2 oz freshly brewed mauby 2 whole bay leaves 2 bar spoons 100% cane sugar Method Shake all ingredients together on ice. Pour into a cocktail glass and garnish with stick of sugar cane and a bay leaf.

T&T 2011 National Culinary Team Raymond Joseph (Captain) – Courtyard by Marriott Devon Joseph (Chef) – Chaud Restaurant Jeremy Lovell (Chef) – Courtyard by Marriott Adrian Cumberbatch (Chef) – CrewsInn Hotel Ltd Ryan Bailey (Junior Chef) – Hyatt Regency Trinidad Cheryl-Ann Shortt-Charles (Pastry Chef) – Trinidad and Tobago Hospitality and Tourism Institute Daniyel Jones (Bartender) – Martini Makers Abiola Jules (alternate Bartender) – Hyatt Regency Trinidad T&T’s Culinary Team won 11 awards at the Taste of the Caribbean 2011 contest, including: 1. Seafood Mystery Basket Competition - Bronze Medal - Adrian Cumberbatch 2. Beef Mystery Basket Competition - Bronze Medal - Jeremy Lovell 3. Pastry Chef of the Year Competition - Silver Medal - Cheryl Shortt-Charles 4. Bartender Competition - Vodka Category - First Place Winner - Daniyel Jones 5. Bartender Competition - Rum Category - First Place Winner - Daniyel Jones 6. Bartender Competition - Best Cocktail - First Place Winner - Daniyel Jones 7. Bartender Competition - Mystery Bar Category - Gold Medal - Daniyel Jones 8. Junior Chef of the Year Competition - Silver Medal - Ryan Bailey 9. Chef of the Year Competition - Gold Medal - Devon Joseph 10. Team of the Year Competition - Gold Medal 11. OVERALL BEST TEAM OF THE YEAR 2011 - Trinidad and Tobago

141

Fast Facts Fast Facts on Trinidad & Tobago Location Trinidad lies in the Caribbean 11 km (7 miles) northeast of Venezuela on Latitude 10.5°N, Longitude 61.5°W while Tobago lies 32 kilometres (21 miles) north-east of Trinidad at atitude 11°N, Longitude 60°W. Climate and Geography Mean temperatures : 31°C (87°F) to a low of around 21°C (70°F) Trinidad is outside of the hurricane belt while Tobago is on its very edge. Trinidad is 4,828 sq km (1,864 sq miles) with a highest point, El Cerro del Aripo in the northern range, at 940 m (3,080 ft) above sea level. Tobago by contrast is only 300 sq km (116 square miles) with a high point of 576 metres (1890 feet) in the north east forest reserve. Unlike Trinidad, Tobago is largely surrounded by protective reefs.

The Government Trinidad and Tobago gained its independence from Great Britain on August 31, 1962. It became a Republic on August 1, 1976. The Head of State is the President with Executive power vested in the Prime Minister. Democratic elections are held every 5 years. Although part of the twinisland republic of T&T, Tobago is largely governed by its own House of Assembly (THA).

Legal System The legal system is generally based on the common law of England and Wales and the judicial system is composed of the Magistrates Court, and the Supreme Court (the High Court and the Court of Appeal).

Although the Caribbean Court of Justice is the final appellate court for certain CARICOM jurisdictions, the Privy Council remains the highest court of appeal.

Population Estimated population is 1.3 million, with 55,000 residing in Tobago. The ethnic mix consists of 40.3% of East Indian descent, 39.5% African, Mixed 18.4%, European 0.6%, Chinese and other 1.2%.

Education The educational system is modelled after the British system and produces one of the highest standards of education in the Caribbean. Primary school is compulsory and secondary education is available to all children leaving primary school with no charge right up to tertiary level.

142

Health Medical services are free at government institutions and clinics, but a fee is charged at all others. 24-hr emergency services are available at several medical facilities. In Tobago, basic A & E and minor ailments can be handled by the Scarborough Hospital or any of the numerous small health clinics. There is an ambulance service and government helicopter for emergency evacuations to Trinidad. Visit www.health.gov.tt.

Economy Trinidad and Tobago is the most diversified and industrialised economy in the Englishspeaking Caribbean, and is highly rated by international investors. More than onethird of the GDP comes from the Energy Sector while in Tobago tourism is the main revenue generator.

Electricity Trinidad and Tobago has a reliable supply of electricity, with rates among the lowest in the Caribbean. Supply voltage is 110/220 volts, 60 cycles.

Water The water service is reliable in most hotels and guesthouses. The water is chlorinated and safe to drink. Bottled water is available island-wide.

Roads Driving is on the left-hand side.

Newspapers There are 3 daily national newspapers : Trinidad Guardian, Trinidad Express and Newsday and several weekly publications.

Tobago has its own weekly newspaper the Tobago News.

Telecommunications T&T has a modern telecommunications infrastructure with the latest in digital technology and fibre optics systems.

Telecommunications Services of Trinidad and Tobago (TSTT) provides landline, broadband internet mobile Services, Digicel offers mobile and landline services and Flow landline, cable television and broadband internet services.

Departure Tax A departure tax of TT$ 100 is included in the cost of airline tickets. It is also payable for departure by sea.

Immigration, Work Permits & Visas Visitors to Trinidad and Tobago must possess valid passports and return or ongoing tickets for successful entry. Work permits are required for business stays beyond 30 days. Visa extensions can be

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

obtained from the Immigration Office on 67 Frederick Street, and work permits from the Ministry of National Security, 18 Knox Street, Port of Spain.

TV and Radio There are 8 local television stations. Cable and DirecTV® are widely available. Radio is very popular.

Safety in Trinidad and Tobago Drugs: There are severe penalties, including long jail terms for possession and trafficking of illegal drugs like cannabis (marijuana, weed or ganja) or cocaine.

Centipede and Scorpion stings: While not lethal, you should consult a doctor in case of allergic reaction.

Manchineel Apples (Hippomane mancinella): Found near to or on beaches.

Avoid any contact with the fruit or the tree which are highly toxic and corrosive.

Portuguese Man-O-War (Physalia physalis): Small, translucent air bladders with a purple to light-blue tint, usually float in the water or get washed up on shore. The tentacles inflict a very painful sting. Immediately apply vinegar for about 30 minutes and seek medical attention.

Mosquito and Sandfly Bites: Many repellents are available, including Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus and Citronella. Antihistimine creams will relieve itching.

Sea Urchins Spines: If the spines are protruding from your skin then you can try to remove them, otherwise leave them in your skin, soak the affected area in warm water and seek medical attention.

Seaport in Scarborough Cruise ship facilities; inter-island ferries running twice per day (cargo and passenger) at TT$100 return or $50 one way (per person) with tickets sold at the port and outlets around the islands. Call the Port Authority for more information: (868) 6392668 or 624-2426. See page 62 for Water Taxi service between Port of Spain and San Fernando.

Airports Piarco International Airport, Trinidad, facilitates international flights from a range of airlines daily. ANR Robinson International Airport, Tobago, is served by domestic carrier Caribbean Airlines with frequent scheduled flights at a return fare of TT$300 ($150 one way) running between 6.30 a.m. and 9 p.m. Regular charter and scheduled flights come in weekly from UK, Germany and New York, and many airlines fly to Trinidad and can easily connect via Caribbean Airlines to Tobago.

143 3D Map: E. Matthews - Digital Art Ltd

146

The Tobago Experience

By Dawn Glaisher

A serene, largely unspoiled island, Tobago is not as cosmopolitan as Trinidad, but its rich colonial history, its marine activities and good, rustic cuisine make it the favourite of many visitors the world over.

Here we feature two interesting slices of Tobago, a bit of local history with an old Tobago family, the Nicholsons, and examples of its historical buildings. They say a lot about how Tobago came to be.

The Nicholsons: An old Tobago family The reality of Tobago a century or more ago is that there were no cameras around to record the scene, but Pat Nicholson is well-versed in the history of her family, who’ve been part of Tobago’s human fabric since the early 19th century.

Her maternal grandfather, Shedrack Carrington, was the son of a Tobagonian woman and Barbadian man. He’d bought land in Charlotteville in the late 19th century, probably used for growing sugar cane or grazing cattle, and had six children with wife Margaret, including Nicholson’s mother, also called Margaret.

Her paternal line began with George Nicholson. His Scottish father migrated to Nevis where he bought a plantation and settled to raise his family. Young George and two of his brothers later travelled south to Tobago where George settled in Charlotteville.

The Nicholsons brought with them skills learned in the fishing ports of Scotland. They were boat builders, turtle net and seine knitters and fishermen, as well as farmers. They were also the first to offer these trades at the northern end of the island, and the first to open shops in Charlotteville. There was

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

147

Dawn Glaisher

The Tobago Experience

a thriving trade in turtle meat at that time, but only Nicholsons owned nets in the Charlotteville area. Their fish, turtle meat and shells were sold as far as Scarborough, the shells exported for processing and re-importation of tortoise-shell products such as hair pins, cutlery and jewellery.

“Great grandfather George,” Nicholson continued, “did not marry my great grandmother Amelia Jupiter; but as his commonlaw wife she certainly bore him two daughters and several sons before she ‘died young’ according to family history. One son was called Timothy Evan and he became my grandfather after marrying Margaret Minty.”

Nicholson spoke about Margaret Minty’s father ‘Barb’, a biracial man (known then as a mulatto) whose family found their way to the West Indies from America via Guyana after the British were defeated in the War of Independence, from 1775 to 1783.

The slaves and free blacks who fought alongside the British against their colonial masters were shipped out to the island colonies in the south for protection, once Britain was defeated.

However it happened, Barb Minty eventually found his way to Tobago and took a wife called Peggy Chance.

Nicholson explained that Timothy was a coin collector and passed on to his sons a fine collection of British crowns, halfcrowns and 15 American gold pieces, one of which she inherited from her father Maurice.

Grandfather Timothy was also a successful boat and house builder, and was known to have bought land in the early 1900s at Hermitage/St Rose, at Starwood, Buccaneer Bay to the east of the village, and on the Charlotteville beach front. The family still owns all this property. Pat showed me her father’s Crown Grant for the land at Hermitage which recorded a princely sum of £39.48 paid for the 9-acre parcel in the year 1900.

Along with several of his brothers, Timothy Evan was able to pay cash for his purchases, but for less skilled or less fortunate

148

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

men, it was possible in those days for ex-slaves and returning soldiers (from World War I, for example) to earn money by ‘contract work’. Plantation owners would allocate land on which the “Itinerant worker” would plant various trees and be paid cash for what was planted, moving on then to the next parcel of land.

It was Timothy and Margaret Minty’s second son, Maurice Nicholson, who joined the maternal and paternal lines by marrying Margaret Carrington who bore him eight children, Hewitt, Greville, Parthenope (Pat), Patricia, Pamela, Annette, McNichol and Penelope. This generation of the Nicholson family grew up in Charlotteville around the mid-1900s but went to secondary school in far-off Scarborough. Eventually the family rented a house in Scarborough, and when in 1963 Hurricane Flora devastated the island, her parents also moved out of Charlotteville to join them.

While the holidays in Charlotteville lasted, they were times of “frolicking and sea bathing”, Nicholson remembered. And at Christmas, when they were old enough, they helped take the cocoa beans out of the pods, and after sweating them, they danced the beans to clean and polish them. The beans were sold and shipped to Trinidad, earning the family money that would pay for Christmas and the January school fees.

Following in the tradition of so many Tobago families, Nicholson owns the family land at Starwood and Hermitage, but also bought land at Friendsfield and Mount Pleasant. With her siblings, she jointly owns the Charlotteville beach front property now called Cholson Chalets, and the family also owns agricultural land at Observatory which brother Greville is currently bringing back to cocoa with other food crops like banana and avocado planted to provide shade for the young cocoa trees.

“How delighted our father would be to see that cocoa!”

Nicholson said. “He always told us that cocoa had to come back

Dawn Glaisher

The Tobago Experience

to Tobago, and he added, ‘You must never sell my land – that land is home now, and you must always share it equally. That is why we run Cholson Chalets on Bay Street. It is living proof of our heritage and the honest example of our hard-working, early Tobago ancestors.”

Tobago’s Historical Buildings Most visitors to Tobago remain unaware of the rich heritage to which the island’s old buildings bear witness.

Sugar cane factories, windmills, fortifications and great houses stand as monuments to the high regard in which this small island was held by its European invaders. The Dutch arrived around 1630 with 100 settlers, followed shortly after by the Courlanders (Latvia today). Then Britain colonised it by treaty in the later 1700s. Despite (or perhaps because of) the many claims and treaties, the island changed hands some 31 times as wars in Europe reverberated down the archipelago to tiny Tobago. A large number of coastal forts were built to repel invaders seeking to exploit the fertile land, the plentiful timber, fish and turtle stocks and abundant water supply.

The coast of Tobago today has numerous vantage points with canons on the sites of old forts. Many of the smaller forts were built from timber and survive only in name, but visible remains include Fort Milford by Crown Point Hotel, which commands the whole south-west end of the island; then Rocky Point with its view over Mount Irvine Bay; Fort Bennett which protected both Stonehaven and Great Courland with Fort James covering the far, easterly entrance to the famous Turtle Beach. Fort James, the oldest fort dating from 1650s, was built by Courlanders.

Cambleton has the remains of another fortification, as does Speyside, Betsy’s Hope, Granby Point (the first British fort) and several others. The most significant of these is Fort King George

which dominates the hill above the capital Scarborough and which has been restored. It was built by the French after they captured Tobago from the British in 1781 and then completed by the British after they took the island back six years later.

Waves of settlers arrived from Britain, France and Holland and built homes. Most of the Great Houses are long gone thanks to the ravages of time, termites, and Hurricane Flora in 1963, but a few examples remain, built by the British from the latter 18th century onwards. The oldest and best preserved is Richmond Great House, built on a sugar plantation in 1766. Kendal has a beautiful example on a hilltop overlooking Carapuse Bay near Roxborough, but it is abandoned now and deteriorating fast.

Houses in varying conditions can also be seen at Belle Garden, Lure Estate, King’s Bay, Hermitage and Terry Hill on the way to Hillsborough Dam. In better condition is Grafton House, dating from the 1930s and used for holiday rentals, and in Scarborough, ‘Welbeck’ Great House once owned by a George Agard in the 1800s.

Once settled, Tobago was divided into plantations, each with its own overseer or owner’s house, and the maps still show the network of estate roads crisscrossing the land and allowing produce to reach the ports for shipment. The historical remains show us that at one point, sugar was king! The first exports were in 1770 from Studley Park and by 1790 there were 37 factories in operation. The best preserved factory is on the Franklyn Estate near Arnos Vale with its water-driven wheel and its steam boiler and crushing wheels, manufactured in Scotland. Earlier factories would have been animal or wind-powered. Visitors can also see remains of factories or mills at Blenheim, Courland, Diamond Estate, Cove near the new power station, Kilgwyn, Bon Accord, Riseland, Carnbeee, and another wheel on the Doctor’s River flowing into Tyrrel’s Bay at Speyside.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

149

Sylvia Krueger (Oceans Discovery)

by Rick Haupt Photo by Sylvia Krueger oceansdiscovery.com

diving

Shortly before landing at Tobago’s A.N.R. Robinson International Airport, visitors with a left-side window seat will be rewarded with a spectacular sight.

For a few moments, the alluring contrast between the deep blue ocean and white sand beaches is separated by a large, brightly turquoise-tinted lagoon. This striking landmark, clearly recognisable even on a satellite image, is the Buccoo Reef.

The Buccoo Reef system has been a protected marine park since 1973; it covers an area of approximately 2.7 square miles and is located a short distance off Pigeon Point and Store Bay. It’s the largest coral reef in the southern Antilles and its immense proportions contain a system of several reef flats that are separated by channels. The adjacent Bon Accord Lagoon, fringed by a wide mangrove belt that predominantly consists of red mangrove with the occasional white mangrove in between, provides an almost perfect scenario for a healthy reef-mangrove symbiosis. But global warming, storms and human influences have taken their toll.

Still, part of this reef’s original beauty is open for exploration. The Buccoo Reef is a complex and fragile ecosystem of sea-grass beds, mangroves and coral, boosting an incredible variety of life forms. Elements of this reef system are the Blue Hole, Coral Gardens and the Nylon Pool, the latter named by Her Royal Highness Princess Margaret visiting Tobago during her honeymoon in 1962.

Coral Gardens is an incredibly picturesque dive site where blue-striped grunts and squirrelfish congregate between large colonies of boulder brain (Colpophyllia natans) and starlet coral (Siderastrae siderae).

Crimson strawberry sponges mixed with bright-yellow tube sponges and purple stove pipe sponges set kaleidoscopic markers in the greenish-blue sphere of this fascinating reef. Our appearance seemed to have disturbed a well-camouflaged southern stingray who was buried up to his eyes in sand. He darted from cover, leaving behind a milky plume of sediment, followed seconds later by a flock of palometas. On a colony of porous sea rods (Pseudoplexaura spp.) we noticed a pair of brightly coloured sea snails also called flamingo tongues (Cyphoma gibbosum) and several bearded fireworms (Hermodice carunculata).

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

151

Diving The flattened segmented worms measure on average three to four inches long with groups of thin white bristles which can inject a powerful neurotoxin, so avoid touching.

We decided to take a short ride to another extremely interesting dive site: Mount Irvine Wall. This dive site, with a maximum depth of 50 feet, lies at the northern end of Mount Irvine Bay and is characterised by a group of large rocks extending into the sea.

The submerged rock structures form a serrated wall with canyons, ledges, caves and all sorts of nooks and crannies, in short providing a rich photography environment. Bring light sources to illuminate the numerous marine creatures hiding deep in the wall’s cavities.

On the way down we passed coral-crowded overhangs swarming with damselfish and chromis. Brightly coloured purple and yellow tube sponges, pointing their rubbery exhausts towards the surface, grow plentiful in this vibrant environment. Sponges are very interesting animals. Their layers of cells build a wall in the shape of a tube and these cells pump water through the sponge’s wall, allowing it to capture and feed on the microscopic plankton that is lavishly available in the water. You can actually feel its pumping ability by placing a hand near the top of its tube.

The nearby rock ledges are just teeming with countless fish and critters. Take the tiny damsel fish for example; measuring only a couple inches, this courageous species attacks anything that invades its territory. And believe it or not, you can feel those bites through a dive suit. Hidden in cracks between boulders, we noticed two types of moray eels – the green moray (Gymnothorax funebris) and a goldentail moray (Gymnothorax miliaris). Underneath a ledge we had a close encounter with two juvenile spotted drum fish (Equetus punctatus). Showing off their zebra-like stripes and extremely long dorsal fins, they always seem to move nervously in a circuitous pattern. Several

coral-banded shrimp (Stenopus hispidus), revealed their long white antennas, hanging upside down from the ceiling of the same ledge. Remarkably, unusually large numbers of strikingly neoncolored queen angelfish playfully darted back and forth, gnawing away on algae-covered corals and sponges. At the very end of the largest canyon divers may find concentrations of small pelagic prey fish - anchovies (Engraulidae) complete with an entourage of predators such as barracuda, grouper and the occasional tarpon. Just below the surface, this mass of silvery shimmering fish, seemingly trapped in this cul-de-sac, forms a cohesive but ever changing unit. We watched our slowly expanding air bubbles travel upwards, mixing with the fast-moving cloud of sparkling silver fish.

Many people believe that the ocean is kind of a soundless environment. But if you are holding your breath for a moment (please do not do that during your ascend), hovering motionless above the reef, you will hear an astonishing array of sounds. There are constant snapping, nabbing, clicking, grating, squeaking, grunting noises, created by various reef creatures: shrimp and crabs feeding noisily by using their claws; hard-toothed Parrotfish crunching away on corals and cnidarians. Lobsters moving their long, spiked antennas like violin bows across rocky overhangs. And right in front of us, a tiny crimson Eremite Crab made scratching sounds by dragging his oversized shell-home laboriously across the rough surface of a brain coral.

Our minds overflowing with vivid images, we returned from another exciting dive excursion. We had spotted dozens of fish species; even a Hawksbill turtle came by to give us the “once-over” before it disappeared in the tinted obscurity of some of Tobago’s great reefs.

Dillon’s Fishing Charters Tel: (868) 494-5337, 678-3195 E-mail: dillonsfishing@gmail.com www.dillonsfishing.com Come take a day out on the largest and most comfortable yacht in Tobago. Super Cool Too is a 48-foot Viking Sport Fisherman, equipped with Penn and Shimano two-speed reels and custom rods. We have a large flybridge as well as an air-conditioned salon with a fully equipped galley for cooking. We cater for fishing trips either 4.5 hours or 8.5 hours, as well as trips around Tobago. There are also overnight trips as well as gourmet cruises to choose from and we can also put special packages together if this is needed. Welcome aboard.

Island Girl Sail Charters E-mail: mystic@tstt.net.tt Tel: (868) 620-SAIL (7245) www.sailtobago.com Come aboard Island Girl for an unforgettable cruise along the coast of Tobago, filled with snorkeling and sun tanning at secluded beaches, an open bar, snacks and our sumptuous buffet lunch.

Or…sail into the sunset and rock to a sweet selection of Caribbean music on our idyllic sunset cruise, all the while served by our courteous and professional crew.

This will be the most memorable day of your holiday. We also do private cruises.”

152

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

experience

Ronald Daniel

The Tobago

Fire One Takes 2011 Carib Beer Great Race trophy

by Darren Farfan

On August 27, 2011, a jubilant crowd gathered at the Scarborough Esplanade, Tobago, for one of the most exhilarating events on the island’s calendar, the Carib Beer Great Race. The spectators eagerly scanned the horizon in anticipation of the front runners. As the excitement built, as ‘ole talk,’ rumours and speculation circulate as swiftly as the choppers flying overhead.

Earlier that morning, in Trinidad, the throngs of fans that sleepy assembled at the Hyatt Waterfront were similarly energised by the enormous release of pent-up horse power that signalled the start of this year’s edition of the Great Race.

Back in Tobago, the frenzied crowd, now in full party mode, erupted into a collective roar just as the large ‘rooster tail’ (the spray of water thrown up behind a speedboat or surfboard) of the first boat bursts into sight. Pandemonium ensued as the impressive Fire One, driven by Guy Costa and throttled by Tory Hannon, powered across the finish line to take the chequered flag and winner’s trophy.

The Great Race has a long, celebrated history and is steeped in a tradition of speed, power and gallantry. The gruelling 93-mile-long race between the islands of Trinidad and Tobago features the fastest and most modern race boats battling for supremacy, a coveted trophy and precious bragging rights. It is the longest consecutive boat racing event held in the Caribbean and attracts a growing number of participants and spectators every year.

The event is organised by the Trinidad and Tobago Power Boat Association (TTPBA) and is faithfully supported by longrunning title sponsor, Carib Beer. Together, they have created

a world-class event and spectacle that continues to evolve and improve.

This year’s innovations, which included a pre-race parade and boat show, mass starts and an adjusted course, were introduced to draw fans closer to the boats and spectators into the action. Carib Beer pushed their own boundaries in creating a Carnivalesque party atmosphere on the Scarborough Esplanade that featured give aways, top DJ’s, live music and the sparkling and spectacular Carib Girls.

Safety is always the main priority of race organisers, who work hard to protect their 42-year casualty-free record. There was a major scare though, when “B” Class boat “Miss Trinidad” lost her steering and capsized while rounding a marker near the finish line. Thankfully, the crew escaped with only minor injuries and the rest of the event was incident-free.

Also noteworthy, Candyman made history as the first boat to ever field an entirely female crew and was greeted with loud cheers of approval and encouragement as they finished their S1 Class circuit.

Now that the spray has settled, it is safe to say that this year’s edition was a spectacular success and expectations are high for the next event. With its ever growing popularity, solid leadership and sponsor support, the 2012 Great Race is set to be bigger, better and even more spectacular. With its thrills, spills and frills, this is an event that you don’t want to miss!

Great Race Results: Overall winners 1. Gulf Fire One (M Class) 2. Stampede (C Class) 3. Gulf Dragon (B Class) Class winners: Hero II (P Class), Extreme Measures (D Class), Energiza (S1 Class), Hero III (S2 Class), Gulf Dragon (B Class), Stampede (C Class), Fire One (M Class); Jeffrey Simmons (Boat Show) Award: Monster

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

153

154

Patricia Lewis

beaches

by Dawn Glaisher

Beach-combing has a certain fascination. The pleasure of strolling down a beach, eyes focused on the sand, anticipating a lovely shell, a tortured piece of driftwood or a “donkey-eye” bean that washes up on our southern coasts during certain months of the year, is always a temptation.

Beaches facing the Atlantic (also called the windward side of the island) offer the best possibility for beachcombing thanks to the currents that carry flotsam from the river deltas like the Orinoco, but these beaches have darker sand, deeper and rougher seas. With the exception of Lambeau beach (great walking at low tide and wind sports) and Bacolet Bay (part of Blue Haven Hotel), windward beaches are not favoured for swimming until you reach King’s Bay or Speyside with its reef-protected waters. This area is a departure point for diving and snorkeling trips.

The Caribbean coast is very scenic, safe for swimming and great for snorkeling. There are at least 13 beaches between Store Bay and Charlotteville’s Pirates Bay, and a couple more accessible only by boat.

One of the most famous is Turtle Beach in Great Courland Bay, home to the amazing leatherback turtles that nest annually in the soft sand at the top of the beach. The turtles are protected by law, and a dedicated NGO called Save Our Sea Turtles (run by Tanya Clovis and her team of volunteers) tries to give the tourists an opportunity to observe the giant turtles while laying, yet protect the animals from any interference.

Clovis will happily give you or your hotel a call when a turtle comes up the beach, and guide you safely to the location.

All of Tobago’s beaches are public. Some cater for visitors, some do not, but it is always wise to use the more popular spots unless you are with a certified guide or tour operator. Do not sit under the manchineel trees, especially in the rain, as the sap and fruits are both corrosive and toxic. Enjoy yourself, but always be safe when travelling off the beaten track, protect yourself from the sun and always carry a good supply of drinking water.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

155

Peter Sheppard

Beaches

Pigeon Point

Pigeon Point Heritage Park is Tobago’s premiere beach location with its iconic jetty and thatched hut, and our only beach with the soft white sand and amazing turquoise waters of the Buccoo Reef.

Located on the quieter Caribbean Sea side of the island, this is a perfect beach for families, but also for wind-surfing and kite-boarding within the protected waters of the reef. Looking west, it is also fabulous for sunset photography through the coconut trees. Reef, dive and fishing tours leave from the jetty. The entry fee is TT$18, which allows access to food, drink, toilet facilities and a selection of thatched huts for shelter.

Parlatuvier

This is a quiet fishing village right after Englishman’s Bay, with a picturesque, quaint feel and lovely blue-green water.

There is safe bathing and sound anchorage for fishing boats with a sizeable jetty for landing the catches. There is a small bar and restaurant that serves lunches, but the village is not really suited for tourism.

156

Castara

The first fishing village after Moriah, Castara developed around tourism. It is quite vibrant, and offers many options for a guesthouse on or near the beach type of holiday with safe swimming. The smaller, Little Bay offers some more privacy. There are a few shops, bars and restaurants, and at night there is a little more activity than is typically found in Tobago’s villages. Just half an hour’s drive from Scarborough.

Store Bay

One of Tobago’s most popular beaches, Store Bay is located right by the airport between Crown Point and Coco Reef hotels.

This beach hosts many local events. It is very accessible even on foot, offers great swimming year-round and features craft vendors, shops, toilets, parking and a line-up of local cooks whose names are synonymous with good Tobago food.

Think crab and dumpling, conch and stew pork. Everyone pays a visit to Store Bay, from residents taking their early morning sea bath to visitors who like to soak up the local vibe.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Englishman’s Bay

This is a lovely, natural beach about one hour’s drive from Crown Point. Winner of a Best Beach environmental award, it is surely the beach that any visitor would like to discover or any ‘yachty’ would love to anchor off. Certainly, the snorkeling is great. The beach has a gentle slope and is tree-lined at the high water mark with a stream at the far (western) end. There is a small restaurant that serves tasty local food, a handful of craft vendors and parking. Toilet facilities are limited.

Grafton Beach

It is popularly called Grafton Beach, after one of the hotels located there, but its real name is Stonehaven Bay, just west of Black Rock. At low tide, you can scramble over the stones that give the bay its name, or swim in the more gentle surf at the Black Rock end, sheltered by the promontory on which Fort Bennett is built. This has some of the best snorkelling in Tobago. There is shade under the sea grape trees if you like a natural ambiance, or try Grafton Hotel’s Buccaneers Beach Bar mid-way down the beach with its umbrella-shaded tables on a deck above the sand.

experience

The Tobago

Festival of the Wind Tobago Carnival Regatta As the dawn of the 4th Annual Tobago Carnival Regatta approaches, promoters Tobago Regattas Limited plan to raise the bar for competitors and spectators alike. Scheduled for March 2 to 4, 2012, the regatta is known as ‘the Festival of the Wind’: a multi-faceted contest that includes the traditional locally made ‘Wooden Bum’ boats, the Young Optimists sailor boats, wind surfers and kite boarders, all competing in a highly charged event on Tobago’s Pigeon Point Beach Heritage Park.

Pigeon Point is known not only for its beauty, but also for the abundance of wind and its sheltered lagoon, which makes it idyllic for the radical kite boarder and the Young Optimist sailor.

As the quality of participant rises, so too do the challenges set out by the organisers; new courses, new international judges and safety measures are included in the 2012 regatta.

A new invitational kite boarding segment will be added.

Here, two of the best kiters from each of the participating islands of the region – Jamaica, Antigua, St Lucia, Barbados, Bonaire, Aruba, and Trinidad and Tobago – will come up against professionals from the USA and the UK. Who will be the best of the best?

The revamped regatta will also include a ‘wind craft’ segment that will give the active beach-goer a chance to participate in the regatta for fun. The public is challenged to build their own ‘wind craft’, dress like pirates and race to Pigeon Island where the winner will receive a large cooler of special prizes fit for thirsty pirates.

Organisers are also planning to alter the course of the Wooden Bum boats; they will sail from Pigeon Point to Buccoo

by Angelique Borde Bay where there will be lots of entertainment and activities for the locals and tourists, allowing for wider participation.

The Optimists group will also see some changes, as the kids will be treated to fun afternoons on the south beach, with bouncy castles and other exciting activities. The adults on the north beach will not be left out as live bands, bungy rockets and afternoon cook-outs will be the order of the day.

As the excitement builds and news gets out about the regatta, the organisers and their sponsors, the Tobago House of Assembly, the Tourism Development Company, the Ministry of Sport, SporTT and others are pleased to see both the sport and sport tourism develop on the island.

By all accounts, it looks as if the Tobago Carnival Regatta will once again live up to its name as the ‘most radical regatta’ in the Caribbean.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Martin Superville

157

158

Peter Sheppard

by Dawn Glaisher

touring and sights

A map of the watercourses of Tobago resembles an old oil painting whose varnished surface is crazed with a fine network of cracks. The entire island is nourished by this flow of water from the forested ridges which have been protected by law since 1765, barring the south-west end which is flat and coralbased.

This fertile land was always highly prized by Amerindian settlers, and later by Europeans who scientifically divided it into estates producing food and export crops. These working estates gave rise to a series of roads and trails connecting each plantation to the main transportation routes. Well-constructed, they allow us to follow, two hundred years later, in the footsteps of plantation owner and worker who tended fields of cocoa, coffee, ginger, cotton and sugar cane.

These trails are more accessible than visitors might think, and walking, mountain biking or driving along a river bank or to a waterfall is a real and worthwhile option. Every tour guide knows some popular trails, but some offer new routes into the forest. Restaurant owner, hiking enthusiast/tour guide Gabriele Gaetano has set out to re-map the trails, using maps originally plotted by Americans stationed in Trinidad during WW2, which have not been updated since the 1970s. Fit and bouncing with energy, Gaetano has a passion for exploring and loves nothing better than sharing the hidden beauty of Tobago, off the beaten track.

Depending on clients’ interests, ages and physical conditions, Gaetano selects a suitable trail to one of more than 15 waterfalls that are worth a visit. Recommended clothing is dri-fit shorts and T-shirt, long socks

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

159

Sights and trainers or hiking boots. No food or any changes of clothing are carried because of the weight. It’s just you and the trail!

A typical trip to Highland Waterfall in Moriah starts at 9 a.m. after breakfast, some guests on mountain bikes and some in the pickup. The truck travels to Mason Hall and cuts west into the hills of Les Coteaux headed for the lower Courland River valley while the riders head north for Moriah to circle the hills (949 feet above sea level) and approach the waterfall from a higher elevation. The truck stops at a bridge over the Courland and guests set off on foot or bike, following the course of the river.

The trail is undulating and scenic, passing stands of over-arching bamboo, forest trees like hog plum and cultivated fruit trees like pommerac, breadfruit, banana and plantain with their beautiful, distinct leaf shapes.

The variety of foliage is matched by the variety of birds and wildlife on the trail: unless you are walking with Shadow, the black Labrador, and his owner Camille who often accompanies Gaetano on his hikes. Shadow splashes through the shallow water, chasing after lizards and scaring birds into flight, running in the woods after agouti and manicou – which he never manages to catch. Occasionally, you can spot a water snake in the river; but like all Tobago snakes, it is not venomous. Gaetano recalls one trip when he was walking alongside a slow-moving, swampy section of river and spotted a number of small yellow frogs – which were disappearing, one by one – snapped up by a young caiman.

At a pre-determined point on the trail, the riders from the north drop down into the valley and join the walkers on Highland Trace. Sounds a breeze, but Gaetano mentions casually that the trail is 12 inches wide with a gradient over 45 degrees off the horizontal, under a heavy tree canopy. To stay alive, riders must keep their outside foot on the pedal and inside foot held against the hillside. Pure adrenalin!

The falls are approached round a bend in the river via a short canyon between low rocks. The force of the tumbling water pushes a current of cool air and water vapour towards you and the current in the water is strong. The falls are 20 feet wide and drop 60 feet into a pool about three to seven feet deep. The thrill is to walk backwards into the falls (protecting your eyes), massaged by the force of the water, until your back is against the rocks and the curtain of water is roaring past your face.

Invigorated, the return trip is an easy repeat of the walk-in. As beautiful as the Courland Valley is, Tobago has many other trails; some with stunning coastal views lined with palms covered with long, black and murderously sharp thorns, or mountainous inland views that in season are dotted with orange immortelle blossom or sulphur yellow poui. The further north you travel, the steeper the trails as a rule, but all are in good condition and relatively safe for rider or hiker and grazing cows. Occasionally a trail passes a small dam in the water authority catchment areas, providing a delightful man-made eco system within the natural bio-diversity of the island.

Photo: Dawn Glaisher

160

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

a Tobagon ian

Meet

Politician and statesman

A.N.R. Robinson

by Nasser Khan

Arthur Napoleon Raymond Robinson is one of Trinidad and Tobago’s most decorated and distinguished citizens, especially in the field of politics. Robinson, 85, is widely and affectionately known as ANR Robinson or simply ANR or Robbie to the average man in Trinidad and Tobago.

During his many years in the political lime-light, during which he rose to become the country’s third Prime Minister in 1986, Robinson served with distinction, charisma and a clear vision for the future of Trinidad and Tobago and the wider Caribbean. It was not surprising that in 1997, he was selected to be T&T’s third President.

His academic resume is most impressive, stemming from his boyhood days in Tobago at Castara Methodist School and later as a double scholarship winner at Bishop’s High School. He then enrolled at London University for his Bachelors of Laws degree followed by admission to the Inner Temple; he passed the final bar examinations in 1953.

Robinson earned another degree in Philosophy, Politics and Economics from St. John’s College in Oxford and came home to practise as a barrister-atlaw in 1955.

His political resume is even more impressive.

Between 1956 and 1970, Robinson was a part of Eric Williams’ fledgling People’s National Movement (PNM), and he served in parliament as Tobago’s representative from 1961. He served as both external affairs and finance minister in T&T’s new government after independence, and as the country’s first Minister of Finance, his role was critical when it came to fiscal policy and institutional reformation.

In 1971, Robinson split from the PNM over its Tobago policies and led the struggle for decentralisation of authority to Tobago. He also led the newly formed Tobago party, the Democratic Action Congress (DAC) from 1985 and served as the first Chairman of the Tobago House of Assembly (THA), the body that allowed Tobago to govern itself. Robinson was also one of the founding members of the National Alliance for Reconstruction (NAR) which he led from 1986 to 1997; and as its leader, he was elected and served as Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago from 1986 to December 1991.

As the Minister of Finance and as Prime Minister, he implemented economic and financial measures which had a positive impact on the country’s economy after a period of decline, and he also initiated several regional enterprises like the Caribbean Court of Appeal and the West Indian Commission. During the country’s 1990 coup, Robinson was held hostage by the insurgents, but had the courage to tell the army to “Attack with full force,” when instructed by his captors to tell the armed forces to stand down. He was beaten and shot in the leg for his brave act.

Robinson’s achievement and scholarship have been globally recognised and celebrated. He has received a variety of awards and accolades, from being Visiting Scholar to the Harvard Law School to being awarded a Knighthood of Honour and of Merit by an Ecumenical Foundation of the Knights of St. Johns as well as Venezuela’s highest award: the Simon Bolivar Award. In 1993, he received The Order of the Caribbean Community for distinguished service to the region.

Robinson has authored two books: The New Frontier and the New Africa, and The Mechanics of Independence. And many of his articles and speeches have been published as a book called Caribbean Man: Selected Speeches from a Political Career, 1960 – 1986.

Robinson was married to the late Patricia nee Rawlins, MA (Columbia, Economics), with whom he has two children, David and Ann-Margaret.

He was awarded the country’s highest national award, The Trinity Cross, in 1997 for his outstanding service to country and in May 2011 again for his great service to country.

The airport in Tobago was renamed the A.N.R. Robinson International Airport in 2011 to honour his legacy.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

161

Festivals Tobago Festivals In case you were thinking that the sleepy sister isle of Tobago can’t match Trinidad for Carnival-like excitement, there are four annual Tobago events that will change your mind. Whereas Trini festivals tend toward the modern and ultra-sophisticate, Tobagonians celebrate differently, with simpler, more pastoral pleasures that don’t necessarily require you to dress up to enjoy.

Goat and Crab Races At Easter you can catch the hugely popular Goat and Crab Races, held in the Buccoo and Mt. Pleasant villages. Yes, you read right—goat and crab racing.

Most are skeptical at first, but these unique sports can become very addictive. You may find yourself cheering your favourite ruminant or crustacean as it races along the grass-covered track. Like horse racing, there are goat owners, goat jockeys, crab owners and crab jockeys. Thankfully, unlike horse racing, the jockeys don’t ride the goats and crabs: they run alongside them. Visitors have been known to jump in with both feet and help the jockeys urge their chosen racing crabs to victory. Most times there are no set lanes to run in, so goats, crabs and jockeys jostle each other to keep their lead. May the best animal win!

The Tobago Heritage Festival is easily the biggest and most feted of Tobago’s events. The annual twoweek eruption of cultural and historical presentations is usually held from July to early August. ‘Heritage’ as many locals call it, celebrates the traditional customs of a largely African-influenced Tobago, in the dances, music, religion and rituals and food that Tobagonians claim as their birthright. This year, Heritage Festival was held from July 16 to August 1 and themed “Tracing Footprints” to honour the achievements and contributions made by many ancestors and persons today to Tobago’s cultural development.

The festival travels throughout the island, touching several villages with its celebratory spirit, including Belle Garden, Roxborough, Charlotteville and Les Coteaux. Each village boasts a signature event. For example, the Ole Time Wedding usually takes place in the village of Moriah. The wedding reenactment is a cultural microcosm of an earlier time where the dress, attitudes and morals of the Europeans were actively blended into the day-to-day life of Tobagonians. Values like purity and fidelity, as well as practices to promote the fertility of both bride and groom play an important part in the day’s rituals.

Women wear floor-length colourful gowns, and the men are outfitted in formal scissor-tailed suits, reminiscent of England’s Regency period. The bride (who wears white) and the groom, lead a procession to the reception site, doing an elaborate heel-and-

162

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Inken Janning

Tobago Heritage Festival

Peter Sheppard

Festivals

toe walk ritual. There, guests are treated to a proper feast and dance the jig and reel long into the night.

The Sea Festival in Black Rock, Wake and Bongo in Whim and Charlotteville, Roxborough’s Ms. Heritage Personality, the Junior Heritage Festival and the ongoing Food Fair are other festival hotspots to hit. The Sea Festival commemorates the slaves’ emancipation and their subsequent initiatives to find another source of income from fishing. It also celebrates the methods by which the former slaves developed strong community spirit in order to survive. During the festival, participants recreate the time when entire fishing villages would turn out to ‘knit’ (mend) or ‘shoot’ (throw out) the seine or net. Persons learn the old ways of preserving fish, and are taught communal morals when everyone gets some of the fish that’s caught.

Ms. Heritage Personality is not a beauty competition but rather a contest to see which participant can most aptly demonstrate aspects of Tobago’s traditional customs. Typically, teenaged or young adult contestants are given a theme upon which they build a presentation, complete with props and costumes.

The Wake and Bongo honours the mystical side of Tobagonian culture, filled with rituals that contain both Christian and African religious elements. It is one

of the rituals that it shares with Trinidad, although each island celebrates it differently. In Tobago, a wake is a night ceremony held when someone has died.

Relatives and friends of the deceased stay “awake” all night to honour the dead.

Christian hymns are sung and feasting (a significant African-derived custom) is an important element of the event. The bongo comes after the deceased is buried.

It leans more heavily on the African beliefs.

For example, participants believe that life and death are very closely knitted and the bong is a way to ease the deceased’s rite of passage to the other side. It is also intended to liven up the ‘dead’ house by encouraging grieving relatives to enjoy life.

Vulgar songs and dances intended cause laughter and to stimulate sexual arousal characterise the bongo—the purpose is to usher in new life by exciting participants to intercourse, which should lead to birth.

Tobago Fest is a mid-September, miniCarnival masquerade, where you can enjoy many elements of what you may have missed in Trinidad earlier in the year. Bands from both islands crowd the streets for ‘night mas’, calypso shows and the sound of sweet steel pan. Tobago has its own version of ‘ole mas’ (traditional mas characters) including speech bands, who wander from house to house with gossip, songs and jokes, often done in embellished European accents.

The Tobago Blue Food Festival The Tobago Blue Food Festival is another important Tobago attraction if you’re hankering for more local flavour to tickle your taste buds. This all-day festival is held around October every year, and in 2010 it was held on October 17.

For Tobagonians and Trinis, “blue food” can mean any starchy, edible root crop used in local cuisine—cassava, yam and plantain (not a root) included. But the term was specifically derived from use of the tuber of the taro plant, or dasheen as it’s locally called. When boiled, this goodfor-you source of complex carbohydrates develops a blue colour depending on the variety; hence the idiom “blue food.” The Blue Food Festival is an opportunity for local chefs and cooks to earn bragging rights on their innovative preparation of the dasheen with stewed meats, in desserts or by itself. Prizes are awarded for most original dish, most innovative dish and to the participant with the most dishes, among other categories.

The event is traditionally held at the Bloody Bay Recreational Grounds and hosted by the village councils of L’anse Fourmi, Bloody Bay and Parlatuvier along with the Department of Tourism in the Tobago House of Assembly.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

163

Touring Goldsborough side road leads to Rainbow Falls, a visit to which should only be attempted with a local guide. Richmond 18th Century Great House. is open to the public with a small entrance fee and refreshments are available. Kendal Great House used by the THA, is visible on the hillside just before Roxborough.

Argyle Waterfall is a beautiful threetiered waterfall where visitors must use local guides for the twenty-minute walk and a swim. Turn left as you cross the bridge west of Roxborough. Entrance fee TT$50. The Cocoa Factory in a nearby cacao plantation is just past the entrance to Argyle Falls.

Martin Farinha

Roxborough, capital of the north-east has examples of colonial architecture in the Court and VAT buildings on the waterfront.

This is where the forest road begins that crosses the Main Ridge hills with a lookout mid-way. Louis d’Or old French Barracks is on the left side of main road, followed by the government plant nursery.

Continuing along this scenic coastal road is King’s Bay Great House with cocoa sheds, a waterfall and a beach facility.

Atlantic Coast Sights Petit Trou lagoon, located within Tobago Plantations Beach and Golf Resort, is a wetland with a boardwalk that winds through the mangrove - a lovely scenic walk with good bird watching throughout the area.

Scarborough, Tobago’s capital since 1769 has the Tobago Museum, housed at the “Officers’ Mess”, Fort King George.

Open Monday to Friday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For more information, call (868) 6393970. Fort King George, established in 1777 and abandoned 1854, also has the remains of a powder magazine, an old

hospital, a cell block and a water tank.

There are magnificent samaan trees and palms alongside the old colonial building that is now the hospital. Old Court House dating from 1852 in James Square is used

by Tobago House of Assemby. There is also an old court house in Studley Park.

The Botanic Gardens accessed from the highway just east of the main traffic lights.

Fort Granby is on the beach shortly after Studley Park quarry. Goodwood Genesis Nature Park & Art Gallery is on the main road. Entrance fee: TT$60 or US$10.

Tel: (868) 660-4668.

Speyside Lookout has a wonderful view across Tyrell’s Bay to Goat Island and Little Tobago. Little Tobago is an uninhabited bird sanctuary thanks to Sir William Ingram’s efforts to preserve the habitat of numerous species of exotic birds. Goat Island, also a bird sanctuary, was once visited by Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond, an ornithologist who wrote a book on T&T birds. Speyside Waterwheel and Sugar Factory ruins are beside the bridge on the road to Blue Waters Inn. Flagstaff Hill Lookout used by the forces during WW2 is as far east as you can go!!

Sherman’s Auto Rentals & Ground Tours Lambeau Village, Tobago, W.I. Phone: (868) 639-2292 Fax: (868) 639-3084 U.S. direct line: 1 (469) 532-2544 U.K. direct line: (011) 44 (865)-594706 E-mail: shermans@tstt.net.tt www.shermansrentals.com

This vibrant, service-oriented company is operated by a staff that is dedicated to the Tourism Industry_of Tobago. We boast of over twenty years in the Automobile Business and today we are in the _Car Rental and Ground Handling Tours on the beautiful island of Tobago. Our clients are offered top-of-the-line luxury cars or jeeps.

Meeting and greeting on arrival!

164

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Peter Sheppard

Touring

Caribbean Coast Sights Charlotteville is a quaint seaside town with cocoa sheds and Fort Cambleton overlooking Man O’ War Bay. There is a nice walk to Pirates Bay. This area is ideal for diving and snorkelling. Between Charlotteville and Bloody Bay is a scenic coastal drive.

Bloody Bay is where the Gilpin Trail leads up into the Forest Reserve, protected since 1765. It crosses the island to Roxborough.

There are four waterfalls along the way including Parlatuvier, a small waterfall

and Castara another small one that only really flows in the rainy season.

Continuing along the Caribbean coast is Mt. Dillon Lookout, just after Norman Parkinson’s old house. Look out for the giant Silk Cotton trees with their buttress roots and thorny bark. Les Coteaux Highland Waterfall (off the beaten track) after coming down the big hill into Les Coteaux, turn left, pass a lovely old church on the left and follow the paved road turning left after bridge. Park near the bridge and follow the track to the falls on foot.

Franklyn/Arnos Vale Waterwheel is the site of a sugar factory built by Courlanders in 1670. The ruins include the British sugar mill that closed in 1865. Bar and Restaurant open from 9 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tel: (868) 660-0815 Arnos Vale Hotel is great for bird feeding, snorkeling and looking at Amerindian artifacts.

Between Plymouth and Mount Irvine are a series of small forts preserved in little landscaped areas: Fort James, Fort Bennett, Fort Milford and Rocky Point. Courlander Monument by Janis Mintiks 1978, was erected in memory of

Latvian settlers. Courland Sugar Mill and Factory ruins are located in a residential development. En route you will pass Black Rock which has an interesting old church with a wood shingle facade.

Adventure Farm is a privately owned nature reserve with a variety of birds including thousands of humming birds, fruit trees, lots of butterflies and iguanas.

The owners serve local fruit juices, coffee and tea. Entrance fee is US$4 or TT$25.

Open Monday to Saturday 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Lovely hiking trails.

Grafton Bird Sanctuary was started in 1963 after Hurricane Flora, when the owner started feeding birds who had lost their habitats.

The Castle Museum on Kimme Drive, Mt Irvine, houses Luise Kimme’s sculptures.

Buccoo Marine Park including Buccoo Marsh for bird watching, Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool has been a protected marine park since 1973. Bon Accord lagoon, Wetlands and No Man’s Land are areas of the park accessible by boat only. Pigeon Point Heritage Park is a state-owned park with white sand and turquoise sea.

Yes! Tourism Ltd.

Yes! Tourism Ltd. c/o Bamboo Walk Hotel, LP 171 Old Milford Road, Lowlands, Tobago Tel: (868) 631-0286 Fax: (868) 631-0287 E-mail: booking@yes-tourism.com www.yes-tourism.com Yes! Tourism is Tobago’s premier Tour Operator. Come and experience our unique land and sea excursions with certified guides. No matter if you need a rental car, accommodation, transfers or to charter a plane, we are your “one-stop-shop” for all your holiday requirements. Discover Tobago with us or ask us about our destination management services in more than twenty Caribbean islands.

Yes! is the answer. What was the question?

Tobago Now Tourism Services 420 Orange Hill Road Prospect, Patience Hill, Tobago, West Indies Tel/Fax: (868) 639-1476, 688-7650 E-mail: info@tobagonow.com www.tobagonow.com

After ten years in the business, Tobago Now is proud to continue to offer its Off-Road Jeep Safari. Climb aboard one of our jeeps, hold on and venture into terrain traversed by few while taking in panoramic ocean views. Visit plantations of times past then travel up off the beaten track, through rivers to refreshing waterfalls from the Caribbean coast into the heart of the island.

Experience the wonder of the rainforest teeming with spectacular flora and fauna. Let our friendly and professional guides take you on a tour you will never forget. Tobago Now services include a variety of other excursions, accommodation and incentive travel.

Celebrate our 10th anniversary and SIMPLY DISCOVER TOBAGO NOW! Services provided in English, Italian, German, French, and Spanish.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

165

shopping

by Dawn Glaisher

Although Tobago’s best features are its natural beauty and eco tourism, there are certainly a number of shopping experiences on the island you may enjoy.

To start your holiday on the right foot (and the left), it is always a good idea to de-stress. Choose from Equilibrium Face & Body Spa in the grounds of the Magdalena Grand at Tobago Plantations; or the wide range of spa facilities at Coco Reef Hotel at Crown Point, Le Grand Courlan in Grafton.

Kariwak Village Hotel in Crown Point offers daily yoga, stretch, chi gong and tai chi classes from 8 to 9 a.m. with experienced professionals.

Once you are ready to start looking for gifts and souvenirs, try Store Bay and Pigeon Point; vendors cater to sun-and-sea gifts. Or visit Crown Point Hotel with its Bambú Gift Shop and T’s, Coco Reef Hotel, d’Art Yard, the Mangrove Shop and Things Natural with its selection of wooden hand-crafted creations.

Interested in art and sculpture? Try Kimme’s Castle Museum open on Sundays in Mount Irvine, and The Art Gallery in Lowlands for Martin Superville’s original art, limited edition prints and photography and exhibitions. In Buccoo Village, check Batiki Point with its batik and other clothes and wall hangings; at most hotels you will find some boutique offering clothes and gifts.

Located on the main highway, the Lowlands Gulf City Mall (open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.) has the largest number of retail outlets, lots of parking and a branch of Scotiabank with 24-hour drive-thru ABM.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

167

Shopping You will find a pharmacy, Zoom Caribbean with its great local t-shirts, beach shoes and bags, swim wear and wraps, a branch of Nigel Khan Booksellers available for your holiday reading and cell phone providers. In the food court, try a Häagen-Dazs ice cream to keep you going until lunch. Fast food outlets include three international chains. Movietowne with its four-screen cineplex is located next to the mall and may be showing that film you never had time to see back home.

If you are staying in a villa or other self-catering accommodation, you will need to visit the supermarkets in Canaan (Pennysavers and Viewport), Carnbee (Pennysavers) and Bethany (Gourmet Foods/Morshead). For alcohol, in addition to the supermarkets, try Vintage Imports next to Pennysavers in Carnbee. For fresh fruits and veggies, try the Scarborough market in the early mornings or roadside stalls.

For fresh fish, go direct to the fishermen near Conrado Hotel on the way to Pigeon Point at midday, or afternoons at the sea wall beside the Mount Irvine Beach. Fish will be scaled and gutted, even filleted on request.

Finally, on Bacolet Street in Scarborough is a batik studio called The Cotton House offering clothing, art prints, mobiles and other gifts. Take a breather at Ciao Café at the bottom of Burnett Hill in Scarborough for delicious Italian ices or a cappuccino. Heading west along the old coast road from Scarborough to Crown Point, you’ll find Shore Things Café & Crafts where you can sip homemade tamarind juice while you browse. The perfect end to a busy day’s shopping.

168

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

THE ART GALLERY has relocated to Shirvan Plaza at the corner of Shirvan Road and the Claude Noel Highway. We offer an improved collection of original paintings by local artists, such as Sundiata, Lisa O’Connor, Jackie Hinkson, Jason Nedd, Martin Superville and many more. You can also select designer hand-crafted local dolls by Inga, beautiful ceramics by Vicki Charles, exotic framing that would enhance any picture and a wide selection of Giclee’ prints and portraiture commissions.

We do high-resolution printing; personal portfolios and posters; professional photography; sign and graphic design; interior consultancy and decorating; restoration of furniture and paintings!

Shirvan Plaza Corner of Shirvan Road and Claude Noel Highway Tel: (868) 631-1424 E-mail: artgal2@hotmail.com

Meet

Kerron Riley

a Tobagon ian

Model Miah Francis

By Danielle Boodoo-Fortuné

Shy and soft-spoken are not words typically used to describe models and beauty queens. Then again, Shinequamiah Francis is not quite your typical beauty queen.

In less than a year, she has already made quite a name for herself in the local fashion industry, and has no intentions of stopping now. But in a profession often associated with brashness and overt confidence, the young model embodies quiet calm and humility. She chooses her words carefully, and exudes grace and maturity beyond her years. Aside from the obvious beauty and poise which has garnered her attention and success, her quiet determination and softspoken strength are undeniably parts of her appeal. The 19-year-old Tobagonian, who goes by the shortened name of Miah, described herself as “shy, yet demanding and persistent.”

Since being placed first runner up in the 2011 Miss T&T Universe pageant, Francis has been relentlessly pursuing her childhood dream of becoming a successful international model. In the months following the pageant, she went on to win the 2011 Top Model Trinidad & Tobago competition, which earned her a contract with the Coco Velvet Modeling Agency, and to grace the runways at Tobago’s 2011 Fashion Weekend.

For the Trinbagonian public, the elegant, striking young model from Roxborough has also become quite a familiar face.

Such tremendous and life-changing developments in such a short space of time would be certainly overwhelming for any person.

For Francis, a self-described very quiet and private person, being in the public eye has been particularly challenging. It forced her to adapt, and to meet and communicate with new people on a daily basis.

“At first I wasn’t too comfortable,” she confessed, “But the pageant changed me a bit. It was nerve-wracking at times, but a good experience.”

However, Francis’ soft-spoken demeanour belies a certain single-minded determination that becomes evident when she speaks of her dreams and goals. On the topic of music, she lights up. She sings with a group in her village, plays the steelpan, and has played the clarinet with the Cadet Force. Music is just one of the many dreams she plans on pursuing in the future.

She describes the pageant as being a gateway to a world of possibilities.

“I went into it without expectations,” she said.

“I was never sure that I would reach this far.”

Francis cites the support of family and friends as being a huge factor in her success. She also gives thanks for the support and positive feedback of the public, which has been one of the biggest and most pleasant surprises of participating in the Miss T&T Universe experience.

Francis revealed that when she isn’t on modeling assignments, she is very much a homebody. In her spare time she can be found listening to music, hanging out with friends and family, or spending time on the Internet.

She speaks eagerly and passionately of being a role model for those younger than herself.

“I’d love to be a positive influence on others,” she said.

“I’d love to be the kind of person you can look at and say only positive things about.” She identifies Sudanese British model Alek Wek as an influence, but cannot pinpoint any one local model in whose footsteps she would like to follow.

She admires them all equally for the strides they have made, and hopes to one day make her own unique impact on the fashion industry in Trinidad and Tobago.

And she certainly seems to be well on her way. She plans to follow up this year’s success by traveling to China next year to take part in an international competition held by the Elite modeling agency. She also hopes to have another go at the Miss T&T Universe Pageant in 2013.

One thing is certain: there is far more to Miah than meets the eye.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

169

170

Patricia Lewis

property

by Dawn Glaisher

One of the most attractive aspects of a tropical, coral island, sun-kissed holiday is that you could actually own a small part of the magic by investing in a condo or villa on the island.

That may be a dream for most of us, but there does come a time in some of our lives when the moment is right, our finances and desires coincide and the dream can be realised.

You may ask: “Can I buy a holiday home in Tobago?” The answer is a definite “Yes!” The law allows it, the tourism industry welcomes it, and there are a number of professional agencies ready to help you find the right property and guide you through the formalities.

Ownership by foreign nationals is regulated by the Foreign Investment Act of 1990 which allows you to buy up to one acre for residential use in a number of locations approved for tourism investment. The actual purchase procedure is much the same as it is for locals in terms of signing a sale agreement and making a 10 per cent deposit into escrow with completion 90 days later. A non-national has to show proof of source of funds as the Act stipulates purchase in a major internationally-traded currency, and in addition there is an application to be made for a licence, which is part of the government’s regulatory system for monitoring foreign investment.

After a period of little tourism investment on the island, coupled with a drop in arrivals as a result of the international economic crisis, property prices have fallen. What better time to consider investing in your Tobago holiday home while the market is not ‘hot’?

Tobago is a beautiful and very special island, not at all over-developed when compared with its neighbours, and perfect for sensitive, sustainable development. Your investment will be sound, and will provide you the perfect spot to come each year, with family and friends, to relax Tobago-style and re-build your energies.

Welcome to Tobago!

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

171

172

Property Island Investment

Tel: (868) 639-0929/9297 Fax: (868) 639-9050 E-mail: rentals.islreal@tstt.net.tt, islreal@tstt.net.tt Website: www.islreal.com With over twenty years of business, Island Investments is Tobago’s leading expert for real estate, showcasing superb efficiency and trustworthiness. The company offers short and long-term rentals of villas, houses and apartments and sale of commercial and residential properties. Venturing a step further, they also do property management; ensuring clients are well taken care of and feel confident while their home away from home is being built at a high standard. Tours, golf packages, secretarial services and more are also available. Come relax, buy and enjoy with Island Investments.

Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas Property Sales, Holiday Villa Rentals & Property Management Corner Milford & Golden Grove Roads, Canaan, Tobago, W.I. Tel: (868) 639-LAND, 639-5263, 639-9663 Fax: (868) 639-2258 E-mail: info@realestatetobago.com www.realestatetobago.com If you are looking for a home of your own or land to build on, a holiday villa or a commercial investment, our friendly and professional staff is on hand to help you find the perfect property. Our experienced sales agents have extensive knowledge about the Tobago property market and can advise you on all aspects of buying and selling. Our holiday villas are maintained to the highest standard and our villa rental agents will ensure your holiday is truly a relaxing getaway.

Rain Property Management & Real Estate Ltd. Lot 1 Bon Accord Estate, LP#2 Pigeon Point Road, Tobago Tel/Fax: (868) 631-0766 Mobile: (868) 796-0820 or 497-2955 E-mail: rainsoriah@tstt.net.tt Rain Property Management offers a highly personalised service, which includes property management, vacation villa rentals, long-and short-term house rentals, and property sales. We go the extra mile, tailoring our searches to find you land or property to suit your individual needs. We provide a friendly and efficient service, no matter what your budget. Our knowledge of the local market enables us to advise you at a professional level, yet with the warmth and friendliness of our island people. Give us a call our friendly staff awaits as we look forward to doing business with you.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

173

174

Chutney singer Ravi B Edison Boodoosingh

entertainment

by Luke Benai

After a week listening to jazz blended with soul, calypso, reggae and soca, you could say that the theme of the 2011 Tobago Jazz Experience was fusion.

Several superb shows with an exciting list of both local and international performers were sprinkled throughout the island, and many entertainers took other artistes’ material and genres and made it their own.

We begin at the climax of the festival, the Beach Jazz Fiesta on May 1, where local acts performed alongside legendary American jazz pianist Joe Sample and soul songstress Randy Crawford at the magnificently beautiful Pigeon Point Heritage Park.

Even with word that heavy showers of rain were quickly making their way across the sea to Tobago, the audience enjoyed the music under a clear sky. Sample, who specialises in a funky fusion of soul and jazz on his electric keyboard, opened his set with the breezy, light “Hipping The Hop,” which he followed with amazingly intricate finger work in a well-known composition of his called “Spellbound.” Sample dedicated, “Gee Baby, Ain’t I Good For You” to Crawford as she took the stage to join him.

Crawford got comfortable with her audience, chatting with them about how she liked the tropical heat and was looking forward to taking a swim the next day. Once she got into her set, her bright vocals attracted a crowd of patrons to the foot of the stage to swoon and sing along. Crawford’s repertoire included “Feeling Good” (made famous by Nina Simone), “Rainy Night In Georgia,” “Me Myself And I” and “Tell Me More And Then Some.” Members of the audience repeatedly requested that she sing “One Day I’ll Fly Away” and the evergreen “Street Life” and before she left the stage, Crawford obliged her fans.

Trini pianist Michael “Ming” Low Chew Tung and his band Élan Parlé made quite an impact with their performance, sending the audience wild with a really fascinating interpretation of “Advantage,” the song

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

175

Entertainment

Dillon’s Sea Food Restaurant & Lounge

Nestled in Crown Point is our rustic 20-yearold restaurant, where you will find an array of fresh seafood, marinated with fresh herbs, and cooked with pure local flavor. You will not be disappointed by our selection of wines to compliment your entre. Your dining experience is outdoor (covered), or on our patio where you can view the passersby as they choose from ‘the strip’ where they would like to eat.

When dinner is over, join us in doors @ theLOUNGE for an Irish Coffee or mojitos (flavoured rum and fresh mint leaf drink), and kick back on our relaxing furniture as you are treated to live entertainment from time to time.

Menu Sample Seafood Platter Our famous platter with shrimp, lobster and catch of the day.

Seafood Pasta Lobster and shrimp cooked in white wine & cream sauce Crab-Stuffed Baby Red Snapper with a wine and scallion reduction Rum & Chilli Shrimp with a shadon beni sauce

Dinner • Functions

176

Edison Boodoosingh

Milford Road, Crown Point Tel: (868) 639-8765/381-7080 Email: dillonsfishing@gmail.com www.dillonsfishing.com

with which Machel Montano won both the 2011 National Road March and the International Power Soca Monarch titles.

The band also did a jazz treatment of Kees Dieffenthaller’s “Wotless,” winner of the 2011 the Groovy Soca Monarch title.

Ace guitarist Clifford Charles and his ensemble got most of the audience dancing with jazz renditions of “Rainorama” by the late calypsonian Lord Kitchener and the infectious 2011 hit “Trini” recorded by local soca artiste, Benjai. Just like with Élan Parlé, the patrons begged for more as Charles left the stage, but had to settle for the very short presentations of both acts.

World Music Night was the festival’s other major show, held on April 28 at the Pigeon Point Heritage Park. R&B/Soul singer Trey Songz coaxed strong reactions from his female fans with his smooth crooning. The young, skilled entertainer gave truth to the saying that T&T women are among the best looking in the world when he said that he had never in his life seen so many beautiful women in one place. That won him even more points with the ladies, many of whom sang along as Songz performed songs like “Bottoms

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Up,” “Say Ahh,” “I Invented Sex” and “Girl Tonight”.

The night’s other international act was Gramps Morgan of Jamaican reggae band Morgan Heritage. Accompanied by a keyboard player, the smooth-voiced, dread-locked singer performed several songs from his debut solo CD collection as well as songs recorded with his siblings and other artistes. “Down By The River,” “Come Back To Bed” and “The 23rd Psalm” were particular crowd favourites.

Local band Karma opened World Music Night with an energetic set; the band, with front man Ravi B, performed its usual chutney soca along with other genres like pop, dancehall and soca. Their repertoire included their own popular original music – songs like “Ah Drinkah,” and “Jep Sting,” made an appearance – while reinventing Michael Jackson’s “Human Nature,” Benjai’s “Wine To The Side” and the 2010 Road March winner, “Palance”.

World Music Night’s biggest local act was Kes the Band and they really set the place afire with a blazing set. The audience boogied with abandon when lead singer Kees Dieffenthaller and his band mates played the hugely popular

Entertainment

Edison Boodoosingh

soca dance tracks “Wotless,” “Ah Ting” and “Right Dey”.

Pazzaz, a steelpan extravaganza, rounded out the jazz festival events. Held on April 29 at the Heritage Park, Pazzaz saw several top steel orchestras, including the reigning National Panorama Champions Trinidad All Stars and the Silver Stars Steel Orchestra. Soloists included Ken ‘Professor’ Philmore, known for his lightning fast handling of the pan sticks; and living legends Emmanuel ‘Cobo Jack’ Riley and Jason ‘Peanuts’ Isaacs, both of whom had not performed in Tobago for over 30 years.

The Tobago Jazz Experience 2011 also featured a number of free events throughout the island including: - Jazz in the East at Speyside - Jazz on the Beach event at Mt Irvine - Jazz on the Waterfront at the Scarborough Esplanade - Jazz on the Hill at Signal Hill - Street Beat at Plymouth.

These events boasted local performers of jazz, soca and R&B, including Shurwayne Winchester; the Kariwak Players with John Arnold; Oscar B; Lynette Louis; Roger George and Kerwin Trotman; Benjai; Roy Cape All Stars, Blaax, Denise Belfon; and Ruth Osmond. All the performers delivered fantastic shows to appreciative audiences.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

177

Entertainment

178

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Come, Cut Ah Dash With Us!

Tobago Fashion Weekend 2011

by Verla Christine Belfon Designers United Stores

Tobago Fashion Weekend 2011 (TFW) was the ideal place to ‘cut ah dash’, Tobago style!

‘Cut Ah Dash’, which basically means ‘dress to look good’ was the weekend’s theme, and from May 27 to May 29, a host of fashion enthusiasts congregated at the Pigeon Point beachfront to obey instructions.

Hundreds of flowing, colourful flags were planted on the pristine sand. And a grey walkway – the ideal Caribbean adaptation of the red carpet – led to the most striking structure of all: a huge white tent which housed the impressive black 72-foot runway.

With white ladder-backed chairs positioned on three sides and swathes of cool white fabric billowing in gentle swells from the expansive ceiling, the stage was set for fashion.

The first night’s event took the form of an intimate social gathering involving industry professionals, sponsors, organisers, the media, and a variety of fashion lovers.

While they shared cocktails and ideas, they also enjoyed a unique preview of some of the fabulous creations that were to hit the runway on the succeeding nights.

On Saturday and Sunday, the mood was amplified as the beach became a hub of activity. These evenings, respectively themed Urban to Couture and Resort Wear, featured the creations of a select number of talented designers. They came from both near and far – Tobago, Trinidad, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Barbados – and even boasted among their numbers the renowned Romero Bryan, fashion designer and tutor at the London College of Fashion.

As Chris Brown’s Beautiful People played, the runway became a spectacular showcase of innovation, imagination, creativity and the thrilling conglomeration of Caribbean and global style. Designers, buyers, international media personnel: all hailed TFW as an experience worthy of standing among the world’s most distinguished fashion events.

Next year promises to deliver an even more impressive gala, under another indigenous Tobago theme – Dan Dan Fiesta: A place where renewable fashion is celebrated. Bring on the fashion party!

TFW is a production of Designers United Stores (DUS).

Photo: Inken Janning

179

accommodation

by Dawn Glaisher

Tobago is surrounded by reefs and blessed with extensive rain forest, neither of which are overdeveloped. It is an island perfect for bird-watching and, of course, weddings.

To cater to this wide range of visitors, Tobago offers a selection of properties that will appeal. Properties range from those in the thick of the tourism activity to remote dive hotels and isolated villas, and with all within an affordable range of prices.

Tobago hotels, the largest of which is only 200 rooms, are located on both the Atlantic and Caribbean coasts in the south-west, with the exception of a few smaller dive hotels strategically placed at the further, north-east end of the island. If your budget better suits a guesthouse or bed & breakfast, you will find these throughout Crown Point and Bon Accord, Bacolet, Plymouth and points in between. For the visitor looking for absolute tranquility, we can offer a few nature retreats, well off the beaten track, where you can enjoy a truly personal service as you de-compress! Alternatively, you might prefer a self-catering holiday, and you will find apartments in the same south-west triangle, plus a full range of private villas in almost every corner of the island. They can be ‘stand alone’ villas at Englishman’s Bay or book within a gated resort community like Tobago Plantations, Samaan Grove and Sanctuary Villas.

Wherever you choose to stay, you will not be far from the sea, from a beach, the forest, the birds and blissful peace.

It is recommended that you choose accommodation that has some kind of government certification of registration and approval. The Tobago Hotel & Tourism Association lists its members and special accommodation deals and a lot more at TobagoHotelTourism.com. And Tobago House of Assembly’s Tourism Division gives a wide range of information on the island as a whole, so for further information or help with a specific enquiry, you can check it out at VisitTobago.gov.tt.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

181

Accommodation Blue Waters Inn

Batteaux Bay, Speyside Tobago, West Indies Tel: (868) 660-4341, (868) 660-2583 Fax: (868) 660-5195 E-mail: bwi@BlueWatersInn.com www.bluewatersinn.com The Blue Waters Inn is the best kept secret in Tobago. Here, you are surrounded by the lush beauty of nature in a glittering bay with easy access to some of the most incredible dive spots in the Caribbean. At the end of 2011, the 38-room, beachfront hotel underwent a complex renovation; all rooms were upgraded to a new level of understated luxury, along with a stunning infinity pool and more. A whole new look, with the same inherent magic.

Crown Point Beach Hotel

Tel: (868) 639-8781/3 Fax: (868) 639-8731 E-mail: reservations@crownpointbeachhotel.com www.crownpointbeachhotel.com Set on seven acres of beautifully landscaped grounds overlooking Store Bay, one of Tobago’s finest beaches. Within walking distance of the airport and the well-known Pigeon Point beach.

Accommodation comprises of studio, cabana and one-bedroom apartments. All rooms have ocean view, kitchenette, bathroom, hair dryer, cable television and telephone.

The Chart House poolside restaurant and Sundowners bar, cater for your entire food and beverage requirements.

Recreational facilities include swimming pool, tennis courts, table tennis and shuffleboard, and there is free Internet facilities for our guests. From our grounds you can walk down steps that lead to Store Bay beach.

Johnston Apartments Store Bay, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-8915, 631-5160/2 (TAB) Tel: (868) 627-1927 (POS) Fax: (868) 631-5112 E-mail: johnapt@tstt.net.tt www.johnstonapartments.com

The Johnston Apartments in Tobago are magnificently located on Store Bay Beach, moments away from Crown Point International airport, nightclubs, shopping and the island’s best food. This vacation destination is ideal in every way. You can relax and unwind in our spacious one-bedroom apartments overlooking the sea. Each room is fully air-conditioned and self-contained, complete with a modern kitchen. Cleaning services are provided daily. Whilst staying at Johnston Apartments, you have the use of Crown Point Beach Hotel’s pool, restaurant, tennis court and conference facilities. The natural and man-made wonders will make your stay unforgettable.

182

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

183

Accommodation The Villas at Stonehaven Black Rock, Tobago.

Tel: (868) 639-0361 Fax: (868) 639-0102 E-mail: stonehav@tstt.net.tt www.stonehavenvillas.com The Villas at Stonehaven are situated on a hillside overlooking a spectacular view of the Caribbean sea. The resort consists of fourteen luxurious villas with spacious living areas, fifty-foot covered verandahs, private infinity edge pools, fully equipped granite kitchens and three air-conditioned bedrooms with en suite facilities. On the well-manicured grounds of the resort, you will find the beautiful Pavilion Clubhouse. The Clubhouse consists of a comfortable bar, lounge, and restaurant accented with a half-moon infinity pool, offering a welcoming atmosphere for relaxing and meeting fellow guests. The Pavilion is also a spectacular location for your next wedding or function. “Get 10% off of your Food and Beverage bill if you mention the following code on booking your Villa. INNSSTV. Valid till November 30th 2012.”

The Magdalena Grand Beach Resort Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-5800 Fax: (868) 660-8503 E-mail: info@magdalenagrand.com www.magdalenagrand.com The Magdalena Grand Beach Resort is located just 15 minutes from the A.N.R. Robinson International Airport. It sits on the 750acre Tobago Plantations Estate, a gated community of luxury villas, condos and bungalows around the Tobago Plantations PGA designed Championship 18-hole golf course. Situated along two and one-half miles of beach and coastline, the grounds offer nature trails and canopy walks through a virgin mangrove forest.

Plantation Beach Villas Stonehaven Bay Road, Black Rock, Tobago.

Tel: (868) 639-9377 Fax: (868) 639-0455 E-mail: plantationbeach@tstt.net.tt www.plantationbeachvillas.com

Located on Tobago’s Caribbean coast, we are nestled in a grove of lush tropical trees, perched on a gently sloping hillside, leading down to the golden sands of the palm-fringed Grafton beach.

The six luxurious Villas, were designed in the charming colonial style of turn-of-the-century West Indies, with traditional gingerbread wooden fretwork adorning its windows and door openings, the Villas are spacious two-storey homes with three en suite bedrooms.

With the emphasis on elegant comfort and the serenity of nature, we are the perfect place for the guests who are looking for relaxation and to enjoy the beauty of Tobago.

184

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

185

Accommodation Rovanel’s Resort Store Bay Local Road Bon Accord, Tobago Tel: (868) 639 9666, 639 0652 Fax: (868) 639 7908 Email: rovanels@tstt.net.tt www.rovanelsresorttobago.com

Beautifully landscaped and situated in a tranquil part of Tobago, at Rovanel’s you come face-to-face with the picturesque Caribbean!

Surrounded by towering coconut palms, the resort has an endless variety of tropical foliage and a wide array of local and exotic animals.

Guest are treated to quality service and given unwavering attention and genuine friendliness from our staff. In planning the vacation of a lifetime, Rovanel’s is where you begin.

Arnos Vale Hotel

Restaurants*Bars*Theatre*Historic Site*Museum Arnos Vale Estate Plymouth, Tobago Telefax: (868) 639-4629 Tel: (868) 639-2881/2 E-mail: reservations@arnosvalehotel.com www.arnosvalehotel.com The Arnos Vale Hotel is located on a perfectly cut emerald that is Tobago. Our honeymoon cottage has a breathtaking 360∞ view of Tobago. Our other suites are clusters of gems cascading down this verdant valley, each with balconies offering dazzling views of the sandy bay. With a sunset-hued punch in hand, you realize you’re in paradise… Whether you take romantic walks on our historical nature trails, dine under the stars in one of our exotic restaurants, go bird-watching or snorkeling, a sojourn with us is a jewel you will always treasure.

Sandy Point Beach Club

68-70 Store Bay, Local Road, Crown Point, Tobago Resort Tel: (868) 639-0820/0877 Fax: (868) 631-8231 Resort E-mail: resort@sandypointbeachclub.com Reservations E-mail: reservations@sandypointbeachclub.com www.sandypointbeachclub.com The poetry and romance of the Caribbean reveal themselves in glorious abundance at Sandy Point Beach Club, the only Timeshare Resort in Trinidad & Tobago…a vantage from which to witness the eternal courtship between sun and sea. Forty-six well-appointed apartments ranging in size from studios to four-bedroom units, each designed and equipped to ensure an enjoyable, relaxing stay in Tobago, whether you plan to scuba dive, golf, explore Tobago’s rainforest reserve or just kick back and relax in the sun or in the quiet sanctuary of your holiday habitat.

186

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

187

Accommodation Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort Ltd.

Administration Office Suite 102, 21B Gaston Street, Montrose, Chaguanas, Trinidad Tel: (868) 671-9143, 671-0631 • Fax: (868) 665-9236 CROWN POINT, TOBAGO, W.I. Tel: (868) 639-8512-3 E-mail: tropikistbeachhotel@mail.tt www.tropikist.com Our Resort is harmoniously designed to bring comfort and nature together. The grounds of this 54-room hotel sit on the coastline of Tobago ensuring a breath-taking ocean view from any location within the Resort. This Three-star Resort was founded in 1977 and is nestled on five acres of well-landscaped property. Facilities include two restaurants, two pools and a Jacuzzi. Tropikist is a preferred holiday destination. It is walking distance from surrounding beaches, restaurants, shops and five minutes from the Airport. All rooms are comfortably equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV, mini refrigerators, telephones, shower and baths, balcony or patio.

Welcome to this tropical wonder.

Blue Haven Hotel

Bacolet Bay, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-7500 • Fax: (868) 660-7900 E-mail: reservations@bluehavenhotel.com www.bluehavenhotel.com The colonial-style villa at Blue Haven is the setting for the romantic restaurant Shutters on the Bay. The restaurant overlooks palm-fringed Bacolet Beach and the excellent menus combine international gourmet cuisine with West Indian spices.

Seasonal entertainment provided.

“The Blue Haven Hotel has the best restaurant on the island.

The kitchen produces modern fusion cuisine using local ingredients...”(Condé Nast Traveler).

Surf Side Hotel

Tel: Weekdays: (868) 639-9702 Nights and Weekends: Tel/Fax: (868) 639-0614 E-mail: surfside@mail.tt www.surfsidetobago.com Why More People Settle For Surf Side: The nearby beaches, Store Bay and Pigeon Point, the surrounding restaurants and groceries, comfortable rooms, spacious kitchens, private baths, pools, cable TV, lavish porches, homely atmosphere, security, best location in Crown Point. Poolside villas. Dive shop in hotel. Similar accommodation at our associate company, PAR-MAY-LA’S INN, 53 Picton St., Newtown, Port of Spain. Tel: (868) 628-2008 Fax: (868) 628-4704.

188

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

189

Accommodation Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club P.O. Box 222, Scarborough, Tobago Reservations: (868) 639-9674/5 • Fax: (868) 639-8800 E-mail: mtirvine@tstt.net.tt www.mtirvine.com

The Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club Resort offers peace and tranquility to both the discerning traveler and the avid golfer. Set amidst an old sugarcane and coconut plantation overlooking the Caribbean Sea, this 105-room resort has its own recently renovated beach restaurant and bar, Olympic-sized swimming pool with swim-up bar, an 18-hole international golf course, several bars, restaurants and a business office with Internet services. Wireless Internet access is also available in the hotel lobby and conference rooms. We offer a choice of air-conditioned superior rooms, suites or spacious garden cottages. Our expansive conference facility is ideally suited for conferences or business meetings and can also be sub-divided for smaller groups. SPECIAL OFFER PACKAGES AVAILABLE.

190

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

of something that may not be considered culturally traditional (making chocolate),” Brash said.

Our Chocolate Passion For over two centuries, Trinidad and Tobago has had a reputation for being an exclusive producer of fine-flavour trinitario cocoa. From its pleasant floral scent and taste to the high price it yields internationally, T&T cocoa remains unmatched. And now it’s being used to create local one-ofa-kind chocolate products. These three chocolate makers have all translated their passion for Trinbagonian cocoa into world-class desserts, showcasing the best of what local cocoa can do.

Cocobel Chocolates by Isabel Brash ‘Cocobel’ means “beautiful brown girl” in the French/West African patois native to Trinidad. Isabel Brash thought the name was perfect for a chocolate company because it could mean ‘dark beauty’ since that’s what chocolate is! After learning that T&T is home to trinitario cocoa – a hybrid between the flavourful and disease-resistant criollo and forastero varieties – the 31-year-old former architect wondered, “Why can’t the countries that produce fine cocoa be known for making fine chocolate as well?” To her, the trinitario hybrid reflects T&T’s diverse culture. And Cocobel Chocolates was born.

Cocobel Chocolates produces milk, white and dark chocolates for online orders. Brash only uses cocoa from Rancho Quemado, an estate in south Trinidad, so that her chocolates have a consistent taste and better quality.

Brash is also inspired to include unique cultural tastes like pineapple chow* into her confections, which give her chocolates an unmistakable Trini flavour.

“It is a way of preserving our cultural identity in the form

Gina’s Chocolate Truffles Gina Sonia Hardy, 36, is a Singaporean accountant-turned-chocolatier and the mastermind behind Gina’s Chocolate Truffles. Truffles, according to Hardy, are “pretty, decadent and carry endless possibilities.” And part of their mass appeal is the fact that they’re made with 100 per cent T&T cocoa. According to Hardy, local cocoa along with local rums and coffees, are “the best in the world.”

To make her truffles, she melts the cocoa, adding local liqueurs and fruits. The truffles are then hand-rolled in toppings.

Popular flavours include the Trini Truffle which contains 54 per cent dark chocolate, Trinidadian rum and roasted almonds, topped with toasted coconut. Other truffles flavours are as diverse as Trinis themselves; they can be mixed with Trinidadian coffee, or surrounded by cranberries and black currants soaked in liqueur and brandy or rolled in feminine pink powdered sugar.

Hardy’s truffles have helped put T&T chocolate-making on the map; they’ve even been gifted to US President Barack Obama and to her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Duane Dove - Tobago Cocoa Estates WI Limited Duane Dove worked in the international wine and food industry for 17 years. But his traditional Tobago upbringing seduced him into an obsession with rum, cocoa and eco friendly farming. The trinitario hybrid was actually created in Tobago and has never been as successfully reproduced anywhere else. Dove believes that it is Trinidad and Tobago’s reputation for fine-flavored cocoa gives us our edge over foreign competitors when it comes to chocolate production.

At the Tobago Cocoa Estate WI Limited, Dove practises environmentally friendly farming to produce cocoa for his Tobago Cocoa Estate WI Limited 70 per cent single estate chocolate bars, made for him by master chocolatier Francois Pralus. A single estate chocolate bar is much more exclusive and of higher quality than other chocolate bars bars, Dove said, because all the beans are sourced from one estate.

The Tobago Cocoa Estate WI Ltd. chocolate bar has received rave reviews both in Trinidad and in Europe, where it retails from Dove’s own chocolate shop in Switzerland, Small Island Chocolates & Coffee. International gourmands would recognise the tasting notes of Tobago cocoa as “powerful and aromatic, a nose with layers of raisins, brown sugar and blackberries followed by a long creamy finish,” Dove concluded.

With reporting from Zoe Knaggs Pineapple chow* – ‘Chow’ in T&T is a preserve made with ripe or unripe fruit [like pineapple slices] which is tossed in salt and seasoning herbs like shadon beni (similar in flavor to cilantro).

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

191

restaurants Tobago’s cuisine is usually simpler and more rustic than Trinidad’s. Creole food tends to be the fare of choice for native Tobagonians.

If you’re dining with locals, expect big helpings of meat protein like chicken, beef or fish; stewed peas and beans (reinventions of the traditional French lentil ragu) and servings of vegetables like breadfruit, sweet potato, plantains and dasheen (taro). Saturday is soup day, thickened with split peas or corn and full of meat (cow or pig trotters, beef) and chunks of potato, dasheen, cassava, pumpkin and other veggies.

But barbequed and grilled meats, fries and salad, pizza and other goodies are also staples on local menus. Food vendors at Store Bay and other casual dining locations around the island are always happy to fix you a plate.

Tobago does have elegant fine dining restaurants; many are attached to the hotels and villas dotted across the island. They usually pride themselves on exquisite sea food dishes, since fresh seafood is one of Tobago’s culinary attractions! International cuisines like Arabian and Italian foods are slowly making their home on the island as well; check out busy areas like Scarborough and the Lowlands Gulf City Mall.

One of the best things about Tobago is the abundance of fresh fruit. Feel free to browse through local markets and groceries for mangoes, plums, sapodillas, papayas – whatever is in season. If you’re lucky, your hotel or apartment complex may have a few fruit trees that you can raid!

Local sweets are quite yummy; vendors at the ANR Robinson International Airport will offer you ‘sugar cakes’ made of shredded coconut, sugar and flavouring; nutcakes, made in a similar fashion to sugar cake once you replace the coconut with nuts; and the famous Tobago bene balls, a hardened candy-like mixture of molasses and sesame seeds. These treats are perfect to munch on as you wait for your hotel taxi to begin your Tobago holiday.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

193

Restaurants

The Pavilion Restaurant The Villas at Stonehaven, Black Rock, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-0361 Fax: (868) 639-0102 E-mail: stonehav@tstt.net.tt www.stonehavenvillas.com With one of the best views on the island, combined with excellent lunch and dinner options, the Pavilion Restaurant is a great place to spend an evening away from home. Our lunch menu features salads and sandwiches for all tastes. Our dinner menu includes a sumptuous herb-crusted lamb and fresh lobster sautéed in garlic butter.

We also provide vegetarian and kids options.

Drinks are half-price during our happy hour from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Reservations necessary. Elegantly casual.

Lunch from noon to 3 p.m. Dinner from 7 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Visa or MasterCard accepted.

Get 10% off of your food/beverage bill! Give the following code when booking your villa: INNSSTV. Valid till November 30, 2012.

Menu Sample Seafood Crepe

Fresh cuts of lobster, shrimp, and fish cooked in a delicate cream sauce and wrapped in a delicate crepe.

Grilled Lamb

Rack of Lamb grilled to your liking with braised onions and garlic, sherry, thyme, herbed mashed potatoes with a rich jus.

Honey and Lime Beef Kebab

Served with butternut squash, dill weed and chili flakes.

Stonehaven Roti

Our daily curry wrapped in dhalpuri skin served with mango chutney and kuchela.

Passion Fruit Cheese Cake

A rich cheese cake drizzled with passion fruit syrup.

Available for Weddings, Functions

194

Café Havana

Café Coco

72 Bacolet Street, Scarborough, Tobago Tel: (868) 639 2357 / (868) 639 3551 E-mail: dine@cafehavana.org www.cafehavana.org

First Left off Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-0996 Fax: (868) 639-8574 Reservations: (868) 639-0996 E-mail: cocoreef-tobago@trinidad.net

Café Havana is one of Tobago’s newest restaurant and cocktail bars characterising the Caribbean experience with relaxing outdoor dining and a cosy lounge bar for guests to spend an evening out sipping cocktails. The restaurant has a faithful group of regular diners as Chef Cesario prepares all the food with great care to ensure consistently delicious meals. The menu is a fusion of mouth-watering dishes, like curried jumbo shrimps and Churrasco steak, with local flavours that transcend many cultures.

This picturesque location also offers a romantic setting for weddings. Café Havana can organise all the details for the dream ceremony and reception from a wedding official and flowers to a wedding cake.

Menu Sample CARIBBEAN FISH CHOWDER

US$7.00 TT$44.00

A local favourite served with black rum and pepper sauce.

SEAFOOD SALAD

US$20.00 TT$123

Grilled shrimp and the day’s fish catch with cucumber, tomato, onions and crisp fried plantains tossed with a creamy vinaigrette.

JERK CHICKEN

US$25.00 TT$159.00

Breast of chicken stuffed with button mushrooms,

baked in delicious jerk seasonings, served with cassava au gratin.

CUBAN-INSPIRED TENDERLOIN

US$37.00 TT$232.00

10 oz tenderloin seasoned and grilled to perfection with a spicy Cuban bean salad.

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner EVERYDAY

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Café Coco is the most spectacular restaurant and bar in the region, with seating for 200.

It features waterfalls, fountains, marble bathrooms and hand-painted tiles, all synchronized to create an exotic atmosphere of charm and beauty amidst impeccable landscaping. This unique place brings to Tobago, delicious dining in an intimate setting. Our chefs, from their open kitchen, offer a wide range of reasonably priced dishes, carefully selected to excite every palate. We offer a perfect venue for weddings, graduations, birthday parties and other group functions.

Menu Sample Chef De Cuisine Maurice Estwick “What The Chef Eats” STEW BEEF CUBANO

Served with Rice, Vegetables and Fresh Salad GRILLED OR BLACKENED FISH JAMAICAN STYLE Served with Parmesan Mash, Vegetables

and Fresh Salad

BBQ ROTISSERIE CHICKEN

Served with a Black Bean Stew CHINESE STYLE PORK CHOP

with Stir Fried Noodles TEMPURA SHRIMP with Rice and Garlic Sauce CHAR GRILLED LAMB

Served with Basmati Rice, Eggplant Choka and a Curry Sauce GRILLED LOBSTER

Served with Rice, Vegetables and Fresh Salad Lunch • Dinner

Restaurants

Magdalena Grand

Magdalena Grand

Magdalena Grand

Casual Caribbean Dining

Fine Caribbean Cuisine

Waterfront Dining

Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-5800 Fax: (868) 660-8503 E-mail: info@magdalenagrand.com www.magdalenagrand.com

Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-5800 Fax: (868) 660-8503 E-mail: info@magdalenagrand.com www.magdalenagrand.com

Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-5800 Fax: (868) 660-8503 E-mail: info@magdalenagrand.com www.magdalenagrand.com

Casual Dining Here you will find just the right selections for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Themed buffets and a la carte dining, and a Sunday Brunch for the whole family. Try your favorite dishes, or try them all. Open daily from 7 a.m. until 11 p.m.

There is always something new to taste and enjoy, either in air-conditioned environment or alfresco on the terrace.

Caribbean Fusion Cuisine Magdalena’s fine dining restaurant offers a wide variety of international cuisine with a Caribbean flavor and a hint of Asia. Your first taste will awaken your taste buds; then feast on our signature dishes delicately prepared by our award-winning international chef, accompanied by a delicious wine from the extensive list. Save room for mouthwatering desserts. Open daily from 7 p.m. for dinner.

Reservations required. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. Join us right after you visit THE NEST Lounge and Piano Bar in the lobby.

Ocean Aire Dining This venue offers poolside and beachfront daytime snacks. During the evening it converts into a romantic candle-lit fine dining experience for seafood lovers, with the sounds of the Atlantic Ocean providing a soothing backdrop for your meal. The daily chalk board menu includes the freshest fish and seafood and grilled meats, all finished in a wood fired oven. Open from 7 p.m. daily (weather permitting). Reservations recommended.

Visit the Robinson Crusoe Pub for an exotic beverage to ready your palate for your evening meal or to provide a refreshing nightcap.

Menu Sample BREAKFAST MAGDALENA GRAND WAKE UP!

Tobago style…….saltfish, scrambled eggs, roast ‘bake’, tomato choka.

Menu Sample

MEAT LOVERS OMLETTE

TRIO OF CEVICHES

Sausage, bacon & ham tossed with sweet peppers, tomatoes and onions.

LUNCH CALALLOO SOUP

Menu Sample

Delicately sliced island conch, mahi mahi, and reef grouper cheeks, red onions, cucumber citrus marinade and local cilantro.

BY DAY TOBAGO FISH KOFTA Subtly seasoned with local

herbs. Pineapple aioli & plantain crisp.

OXTAIL RAVIOLI

LOWLANDS PORK RIBLETS

Tobago spinach soup combined with okra, pumpkin & coconut milk.

Slow braised and deboned, wrapped in tender egg noodles.

Served on casareep jus with chive oil.

Boneless mini ribs, smoked in-house with guava barbeque glaze.

BON ACCORD FLYING FISH

RED SNAPPER FILLET

BACOLET SEAFOOD SALAD

Flying fish fillets, corn-meal crusted, deep fried. Served open-faced on ciabatta with cassava fries.

CREOLE RATATOUILLE SALAD

Grilled eggplant, zucchini, tomato, tossed with celery hearts, chick peas & balsamic basil vinaigrette.

DINNER ISLAND LOBSTER BISQUE

Pernod scented, topped with lobster ‘croutons’.

TAMARIND GLAZED CHICKEN

Pan-seared and finished with three-pepper citrus beurre blanc. Roasted sweet potatoes and sautéed christophene.

TOBAGO LOBSTER TAIL

Lightly seasoned and slow baked. Tarragon butter, brunoise of ground provisions, vegetable florettes.

MANGO CRÈME BRULEE

Ripe mango custard with a hint of Grand Marnier under a brown sugar crust

Spiced with local herbs and cooled with sugared rum drizzle.

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner

Dinner

Coconut poached shrimp, fish, lobster and scallops in lightly curried mayo atop market fresh field greens with citrus vinaigrette.

BY NIGHT CARIBBEAN FLATBREADS From our wood-

burning open pizza oven. A selection for sharing to start or entree dining.

CHALKBOARD SPECIALS A nightly changing array of the freshest seafoods available, prepared with flair and elegance by our talented culinary team.

Yellowfin Tuna, MahiMahi, Shrimp, Scallops, Lobster Lunch • Dinner

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

195

Restaurants

El Pescador SeaFood Restaurant Miller’s Guesthouse #14 Miller Street, Buccoo Point, Tobago Head Chef: Leonardo Larios Tel: (868) 631-1266 www.leos-pescador.com Free Wi-Fi access Call for reservations Tobago’s No. 1 Beachfront Restaurant with excellent food and a fantastic view. Sit back, relax, converse and watch the run rise and set over Buccoo Bay. Our professional staff will cater for your every need.

Try one of our refreshing cocktails on the sun terrace. Sample the delicious fresh sea food in our open air restaurant, and enjoy the catch of the day from the local fisherman at the jetty in front of the restaurant.

Menu Sample STARTER Shrimp Taragon

TT$50

TT$125

TT$145

Grill pork with homemade apple chilli, served with mash potatoes Nylon Pool Delight

196

Introducing Tobago’s newest concept in Italian dining: the Pasta Gallery. Superbly located on the way to Pigeon Point, the venue features a unique fusion of restaurant and art gallery. Start with a refreshing salad or crispy bruschetta then savour ‘sugo’ simmered to perfection over a hearty serving of pasta. While enjoying the ‘trattoria’ experience, don’t forget to take in the local art that surrounds you. Come and relax in the Pasta Gallery’s cool yet cozy atmosphere and relish the simple art of good food.

Menu Sample Baked Meat Lasagne

A hearty choice, baked lasagne with Bolognese sauce, cheese, and béchamel.

Combinations of vegetables following the principles of the classic meat sauce lasagne.

Fish fillet baked in a jalapeño and white wine reduction Chilli Apple Pork

Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point Tel: (868) 782 8200 (PASTA-00) E-mail: thepastagallery@gmail.com

Baked Vegetable Lasagne

Jumbo shrimps in a glass with salsa and home made sauce MAIN COURSE El Mexicano Fish

The Pasta Gallery

TT$250

Spaghetti Bolognese Meat Sauce

Speciality of Bologna, Spaghetti or short pastas covered in a lean minced beef, red wine and tomato-based sauce.

Fettuccini Alfredo with Ham and Cream

A rich, delicious and elegant dish; ask about other variations.

The Seahorse Inn Restaurant & Bar Grafton Beach Road Black Rock, Tobago Tel: (868) 639 0686 E-mail: seahorseinntobago@gmail.com www.seahorseinntobago.com Intimate al fresco dining under the stars, a gentle breeze, the soothing, eternal sound of the surf. Fabulous food before you, leatherback turtles nesting on the beach.

It’s no wonder the Seahorse Inn is Tobago’s premier beachside fine dining restaurant.

We were acclaimed best value small inn & restaurant in leading UK publications the Daily and Financial Times, Evening Standard, Express, plus Options and Wedding & Home magazines. Open for dinner 6 p.m. daily

Menu Sample Creole Crab Cakes

Seafood sauce, red pepper coulee.

Bruschetta Trio

Tomato, fennel, feta.

Smoked Salmon, horseradish cream, capers. Chicken liver pate, candied orange peel.

Roasted Sweet Pepper with Herbed Goat Cheese

Herb scented olive oil, cracked spices, Balsamic syrup.

Lobster Thermidor

Classic sauce of cheese, white wine, cream and snipped chives.

Blackened fillet of Grouper

Linguine with Pesto Sauce

Wilted greens, mashed potato, warm lemon herb vinaigrette, chili oil.

Basil, olive oil, parmesan cheese, garlic and nuts.

Tournedos Seahorse

House Salads, Bruschetta...

10oz Tenderloin steak, roast garlic mashed potatoes, seared fois gras. Roast shallots. Red wine sauce.

A seafood platter with shrimp, squid, scallop clams and fish

Gluten free and whole wheat pastas available

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner

Dine in • Take Away • Bar

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Slow Braised Pork Belly

Crackling, spicy shrimp & madeira sauce Dinner • We Cater for Weddings, Functions, off premises

Restaurants

Ciao Café Italian Food & Wine Bar Burnett Street, Scarborough, Tobago Reservations: (868) 635-2323, 639-3001 A TASTE OF ITALY IN THE HEART OF TOBAGO This Italian gelateria & bar is the place to savour beastly cold beers, exotic cocktails or the best espresso on the island. Try our freshly made Panini sandwiches and scrumptious desserts. We invite you to enjoy our 20-plus flavours of the highest quality gelato, artisanmade in-house daily. Watch the hustle of Scarborough from our cool verandah while devouring mouthwatering authentic Italian pizzas, pastas and salads at Ciao Pizza. Visit our Italian wine shop and deli.

We accept local and international credit cards, Euro and US currency.

Ciao Café: open Monday to Thursday from 9 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; on Tuesdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; on Friday to Saturday up to 12 midnight and on Sundays and public holidays from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Ciao Pizza: open Monday to Saturday from 11:45 a.m. to 2:45 p.m. for lunch; from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner; and on Sundays and public holidays for dinner only. Closed on Tuesdays.

Menu Sample Traditional Italian Antipasti A variety of Pastas and Sauces Authentic Italian Pizza Catch of d Day

Shutters on the Bay

Kariwak Village

Bacolet Bay, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-7500, 660-7400 Fax: (868) 660-7900 www.bluehavenhotel.com

Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point Tel: (868) 639 8442

The colonial-style villa at romantic Blue Haven Hotel is the setting for the restaurant, Shutters on the Bay, overlooking Bacolet Beach.

The excellent menus combine international gourmet cuisine with West Indian ingredients and spices and often feature fresh fish, lobster and crayfish. Dinner menus are changing on a daily basis.

Menu Sample Tobago Fisherman Soup Fresh picked garden lettuce served with chicken or fish strips, tropical fruits and balsamico marinade.

Baked potatoes with Gulf shrimp skewer in garlic sauce.

Flying fish roulade on pickled red cabbage.

Sesame crusted chicken breast on sweet potato mousse and terragon-mustard sauce.

Lobster ‘a la shutters on the bay’ with vegetables, calypso rice and garlic lemon butter.

‘Catch of the Day’ grilled with herb and lime, sautéed potatoes and patchoi.

Island curried chicken with basmati rice and mini-roti.

Stir-fried wok noodles Asian-style with vegetables and soy sauce.

Coconut ice crepe served with sautéed pineapples.

Caramelised plantains with rum & raisin ice cream.

Homemade Tiramisu

Opened in 1982, Kariwak is a cosy green oasis of a hotel with an absolutely fantastic restaurant known for its creative use of herbs straight from the garden. Everything is freshly prepared on-site, from the legendary Kariwak rum punch with fresh lime and passion fruit to the homemade rosemary focaccia served on week-ends.

Breakfast is a delight of local fruit, homemade yogurt and muesli along with traditional favourites. Kariwak’s popular lunch and dinner menus are set daily based on what is freshly available. Generously-sized salads and sandwiches served throughout the day… buffet dinner and live entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights.

Menu Sample DINNER

Pumpkin soup with fresh dill Fresh garden greens with roasted sunflower seeds Mahi mahi in a coconut herb sauce OR Baked chicken with cumin & coriander with savory basmati rice, ginger mixed vegetables and grilled eggplant Kariwak lime pie with homemade peppermint ice cream Coffee, tea or Kariwak Spice Tea with bay leaf, cinnamon and ginger.

Dinner: $175 to $190 TT Lunch: $75 to $100 TT

Lunch • Dinner • Take-away

Available for Weddings, Functions

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Bar

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

197

Keown Thomas

198

Hotels & Guest Houses in Trinidad HOTEL

LOCATION

TELEPHONE

E-MAIL

WEBSITE

ACAJOU HOTEL

Grand Rivière

670-3771

info@acajoutrinidad.com

www.acajoutrinidad.com

ALICIA’S PALACE

St. Anns

621-1017

info@aliciaspalace.com

www.aliciaspalace.com

ALICIA’S GUEST HOUSE

St. Anns

623-2802

info@aliciashouse.com

www.aliciashouse.com

AMBASSADOR HOTEL

St. James

628-9000

ambassador@wow.net

www.ambassadortt.com

ANISE RESORT AND SPA

Sans Souci

670-4436

info@aniseresort.com

www.aniseresortandspa.com

ASA WRIGHT NATURE CENTRE & LODGE

Arima

667-4655

asaright@tstt.net.tt

www.asawright.org

CARA SUITES HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE

Claxton Bay

659-2271

carasuitespap@carahotels.com

www.carahotels.com

CARLTON SAVANNAH LIMITED

St. Anns.

621-5000

info@thecarltonsavannah.com

www.thecarltonsavannah.com

CARNETTA’S INN

Maraval

628-2732; 622-5165

reservations@carnettasinn.com

www.carnettasinn.com

COBLENTZ INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Cascade

621-0541-4

coblentzinn@tstt.net.tt

www.coblentzinn.com

CORAL COVE MARINA HOTEL

Chaguaramas

634-2040; 634-2244

coralcove@fiberline.tt

www.coralcovemarina.com

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT Port of Spain 627-5555 nicol.khelawan@courtyard.com

http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ poscy-courtyard-port-of-spain/

CREWSINN HOTEL LIMITED

www.crewsinn.com

Chaguaramas

634-4384

inquiries@crewsinn.com

CROWNE PLAZA Port of Spain 625-3361 reservations@cplazahotel.com

http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/crowne plaza/hotels/us/en/port-of-spaintrinidad/postd/hoteldetail

FORTY WINKS INN

Newtown

622-0484; 628-0316

pam@fortywinkstt.com

www.fortywinkstt.com

HACIENDA JACANA

Trinidad

498-7597

haciendajacana@gmail.com

www.haciendajacana.com

HILTON TRINIDAD AND CONFERENCE CENTRE

Belmont

624-3211

poshi-sales@hilton.com

www.hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidad

HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS HOTEL & SUITES

Trincity

669-6209

holidayinnexpress2@tstt.net.tt

www.hiexpress.com/trincitytt

HOTEL NORMANDIE

St Anns

624-1181

sales@normandiett.com

www.normandiett.com

HYATT REGENCY

Port of Spain

623-2222

www.trinidad.hyatt.com

KAPOK HOTEL

St. Clair

622-5765

www.kapokhotel.com

stay@kapokhotel.com

L’ORCHIDÉE BOUTIQUE HOTEL

St. Ann’s

621-0618; 621-0063

reservations@trinidadhosthomes.com

www.trinidadhosthomes.com

LE GRANDE ALMANDIER

Grande Rivière

670-2294; 670-1013

info@legrandealmandier.com

www.legrandealmandier.com

DR JOÁO HAVELANGE - CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE

Tunapuna

299-0646

info@coetnt.com

www.coetnt.com

MONIQUE’S

Maraval

628-2351; 628-3334

info@moniquestrinidad.com

www.moniquestrinidad.com

PAR MAY LA’S INN

Port of Spain

628-4707

reservation@parmaylas.com

www.trinidad.net/parmaylas

PARIA SUITES

La Romain

697-2742; 697-1442/3

info@pariasuites.com

www.pariasuites.com

PAX GUESTHOUSE

Tunapuna

662-4084

pax-g-h@trinidad.net

www.paxguesthouse.com

REGENT STAR HOTEL

Piarco

669-STAR

info@regentstarhotel.com

www.regentstarhotel.com

ROCKCITY GUESTHOUSE

Las Lomas

669 9027

info@rockcitytt.com

www.rockcitytt.com

SALYBIA NATURE RESORT AND SPA

Mathura

668-5959; 691-3211

info@salybiaresort.com

www.salybiaresort.com

SUNDECK SUITES LIMITED

Port of Spain

622-9560/1

reservations@sundecktrinidad.com

www.sundecktrinidad.com

THE CASCADIA HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE

St. Ann’s

623-3511

marketing@cascadiahotel.com

www.cascadiahotel.com

THE CHACONIA HOTEL

Maraval

628-0941; 622-2346

bookme@chaconiahotel.com

www.chaconiahotel.com

THE CHANCELLOR HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE

St. Ann’s

623-08s83

info@thechancellorhotel.com

www.thechancellorhotel.com

THE ROYAL HOTEL (1978) LIMITED

San Fernando

652-4881

info@royalhoteltt.com

www.royalhoteltt.com

TRADEWINDS HOTEL

San Fernando

652-9463

delia@tradewindshotel.net

www.tradewindshotel.net

TRINIDAD MARACAS BAY HOTEL

Maracas

669-1643; 669-1914

maracasbay@tstt.net.tt

www.maracasbay.com

199

Peter Sheppard

200

Hotels & Guest Houses in Tobago HOTEL

LOCATION

TELEPHONE

E-MAIL

WEBSITE

ADE’S DOMICIL

Scarborough

639-4306, 686-5831

ades@tstt.net.tt

www.adesdomicil.de

ARNOS VALE HOTEL

Plymouth

639-2881-2

reservations@arnosvalehotel.com

www.arnosvalehotel.com

BACOLET BEACH CLUB

Bacolet

639-2357

info@bacoletbeachclub.com

www.bacoletbeachclub.com

BAMBOO WALK HOTEL

Lowlands

631-0550

info@bamboo-walk.com

www.yes-tourism.com

BETHEL BED & BREAKFAST

Bethel

639-9775, 352-1328

islandvacation@rogers.com

www.islandvacationinn.com

BLUE HAVEN HOTEL Scarborough

660-7400, 660-7500, 660-7600

reservations@bluehavenhotel.com

www.bluehavenhotel.com

BLUE WATERS INN

Speyside

660-2583

bwi@bluewatersinn.com

www.bluewatersinn.com

CHOLSON CHALETS

Charlotteville

639-8553

cholsonchaletsltd@yahoo.com

www.cholsonchalets.com

COCO REEF RESORT & SPA

Crown Point

639-8571

cocoreef-tobago@trinidad.net

www.cocoreef.com

CROWN POINT BEACH HOTEL

Crown Point

639-8781-3

reservations@crownpointbeachhotel.com

www.crownpointbeachhotel.com

CUFFIE RIVER NATURE RETREAT

Runnemede

660-0505

cuffiriv@tstt.net.tt

www.cuffie-river.com

GREEN HAVEN COTTAGE Les Coteaux

660-0394, 356-8398, greenhavencottage@yahoo.com 716-3666

HALF MOON BLUE

639-3551

Bacolet

info@bacoletbeachclub.com

HAWKSBILL HOUSE

Black Rock 718-4306 liz@tobagobeachvillas.com

JOHNSTON APARTMENTS

Store Bay

639-8915

631-5160-2

johnapt@tstt.net.tt

www.mytobago.info/apartments/ greenhaven-cottage.htm www.halfmoonblue.com www.tobagobeachvillas.com/ hawksbill.htm www.johnstonapartments.com

JONESY’ S COUNTRY HAVEN INN Pembroke 660-4933, 377-4401 paradisevilla@tstt.net.tt

www.tobagobedandbreakfast association.com/paradise_villa.htm

KARIWAK VILLAGE

Crown Point

639-8442

kariwak@tstt.net.tt

www.kariwak.com

MAGDALENA GRAND BEACH RESORT

Lowlands

660-8500

info@magdalenagrand.com

www.magdalenagrand.com

MT. IRVINE BAY HOTEL & GOLF CLUB

Mt. Irvine

639-8871-3

mtirvine@tstt.net.tt

www.mtirvine.com

NATIVE ABODE BED & BREAKFAST

Bon Accord

631-1285, 298-4881

stay@nativabode.com

www.nativeabode.com

NICOVILLE

Charlotteville

639-8553

cholsonchaletsltd@yahoo.com

Mt. Irvine

632-4608, 639-9213

merilee@petitcareme.com

www.petitcareme.com

PLANTATION BEACH VILLAS

Black Rock

639-9377

plantationbeach@tstt.net.tt

www.plantationbeachvillas.com

PLANTATION CONDO

Lowlands

625-1563

rental@17b-tobago.com

www.17b-tobago.com

PETIT CAREME VILLA

ROVANEL’S RESORT

Bon Accord

639-9666

rovanels@tstt.net.tt

www.rovanelsresorttobago.com

SANDY POINT BEACH CLUB

Crown Point

639-0820/0877

reservations@sandypointbeachclub.com

www.sandypointbeachclub.com

SANDY’S BED & BREAKFAST

Scarborough

639-2737

daisysflowers@hotmail.com

www.tobagobluecrab.com/

SCARBOROUGH HOUSE

Bon Accord

639-9039

scarboroughjs@hotmail.com

www.scarboroughhousejs.com

SULLIVAN’S COURT

Buccoo

639-0891, 348-8429, 775-8849

sullivanscourt_tobago@live.com

www.sullivanstobago.com

SUNSHINE HOLIDAY APARTMENTS LTD.

639-7482/7495

sunapt@tstt.net.t

www.sunshine-apartments-tobago.com t

Bon Accord

SUNSPREE RESORT

Crown Point

631-5195/ 631-5196

sunspreeresort@gmail.com

www.sunspreeresort.net

SURF SIDE HOTEL

Crown Point

639-0614

reservation@surfsidetobago.com

www.surfsidetobago.com

THE VILLAS AT STONEHAVEN

Black Rock

639-0361

stonehav@tstt.net.tt

www.stonehavenvillas.com

TOBAGO PLANTATIONS BEACH AND GOLF RESORT Lowlands

631-1054

rentals@tobagoplantations.com

www.tobagoplantations.com

TOP O’ TOBAGO

Arnos Vale Road

639-3166, 687-0121

hugh@topotobago.com

www.topotobago.com

Speyside

660-4904,

toprank00@yahoo.com

www.toprankingtobago.com

TOUCAN INN & BONKERS

Crown Point

639-7173/0332/8993

bonkers@trinidad.net

www.toucan-inn.com

TROPIKIST BEACH HOTEL & RESORT

Crown Point

639-8512-3

tropikistbeachhotel@mail.tt

www.tropikist.com

TOP RANKING HILLVIEW GUESTHOUSE

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

201

Index A/B 360˚ Restaurant Acajou Hotel Adelle Bernadette Angelo’s Italian Restaurant Anise Resort and Spa Another Idea Limited Apsara Restaurant Arnos Vale Hotel Asa Wright Nature Centre B Lounge Bambú Beacon Insurance Company Limited Inside Back Cover Benihana Blue Haven Hotel Blue Waters Inn Bois Cano Burger King

134 110 52 128, 129 110, 114 114 138 186 111 122 48 82, 83 & 122 188, 189 182, 183 126 124, 125

C/D Café Coco 194 Café Havana Bar & Restaurant 194 Cara Suites Hotel and Conference Centre 104, 105 Caribbean Discovery Tours 60, 61 Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas 173 Carlton Savannah 108, 109 Carnetta’s Inn 110 Carvalho’s Agencies 60 Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA) 79 Chaud 135 Chaud Café and Wine Bar 135 Chaud Créole 135 Ciao Café Italian Food & Wine Bar 197 Ciao Pizza 197 Coco Reef 187 Courtyard by Marriott 100, Inside Front Cover Crown Point Beach Hotel 182, 190 Crowne Plaza 102 De Gallery of Visual Arts 53 Digicel IMAX Theatre 118 Digital Art 143 Dillon A Richards 2, 145 Dillon’s Fishing Charters 152 Dillon’s Seafood Restaurant & Lounge 176 Dr Joao Havelange - Centre of Excellence 107 Eat It Restaurant 137 El Pecos Grill 137 El Pescador Seafood Restaurant 196 Ellerslie Plaza 43 Event ConneXions 60

E/F/G Excellent City Centre Excellent Stores Face and Body Clinic Flair the Restaurant Fracture & Orthopaedic Clinic Gail’s Exclusive Tour Services Limited Gem Shop Ghazal, the Indian Grill House

19 47 97 139 97 60 45 140

H/I/J Hacienda Jacana 108 Hakka Restaurant & Bar 130, 131 Healing-with-Horses 168 Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre 102, 103 Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites 102, 103 Hong Wing & Sons Ltd 23

202

House of Jaipur Indian Lifestyle and Tearoom 136 Hyatt Regency Trinidad 96, 100, 101 & 128 In Joy Tours 60 Irie Bites 137 Island Experiences 60 Island Girl Sail Charters 152 Island Investments 173 Island of Sun (IOS) 46 Jacqueline Guzman 52 Jade Monkey 178 Jason Nedd 53 Johnston Apartments 182 Junya Craigwell 53

K-S Kaizan Sushi 132, 133 Kaja Moses 52 Kapok Hotel 105 Kariwak Village Holistic Haven and Hotel 190, 197 Kaur Collections 48 L’Orchidée Boutique Hotel 104 Le Grande Almandier 106 Le Sportel Inn 107 Le Visage Day Spa 96 LeVels Ultrabar & Lounge 124 Lime Inn 134 Magdalena Grand Beach Resort 1, 184 Magdalena Grand Restaurants 195 Malabar Farms Gourmet 40 Map of Port of Spain 143 Martini Makers 114 Mélange Restaurant (Trinidad) 138 Ministry of Community Development 22 Ministry of the Arts and Muliticulturalism 55 More Sushi 134 More Vino 134 MovieTowne 44, 119 & 178 Mt Irvine Bay Hotel and Golf Club 190 Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel 104 Nanan’s Bird Sanctuary Tours 60 Nichossa Restaurant 139 Nigel R. Khan Bookseller 17 North Shore Optical Studio 46 On Location Art Galleries Limited 53 Optometrists Today 41 Palki Restaurant 140, 141 Par-May-La’s Inn 108, 109 Paria Springs 60 Pasta Gallery 196 Pavilion Restaurant 194 Peppercorns 40 Plantation Beach Villas 184 Playa del Este 109 Popeye’s 124, 125 Prime Minister’s Best Village Competition 22 Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC) 75 R.I.K. Services Limited 42 Rain Property Management & Real Estate Ltd 173 Rainy Days 45 RBC Royal Bank 88, 89 Rebecca Foster Cover, 2 Regent Star Hotel 106, 107 Rental Centre 114 Republic Bank Limited 92, 93 Robert Anthony Young 52 Roberto Nu-Look Salon 96 Rossco’s 128, 129 Rovanel’s Resort 186, 187 Royal Castle Limited 130, 131 Royal Hotel (1978) Limited 106, 107 Ruby Tuesday 126, 127

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Sandy Point Beach Club 186 Seahorse Inn Restaurant & Bar 196 Shade Night Club and Restaurant 177 Sherman’s Auto Rentals & Ground Tours 164 Shutters on the Bay 197 Signature Selection 17 Soong’s Great Wall 130, 131 Sounds of Shoes & Sandals 44 Spa Esencia, Hyatt Regency 96 Space La Nouba 118 Stechers 3 Subway 132, 133 Sundeck Suites 109 Sunset Palm & Monkey Club 178 SuperPharm Limited 47 Surf Side Hotel 109, 188

T-Z T.G.I. Friday’s 122, 123 TAG, The Art Gallery 168 Tamnak Thai Restaurant 138 TAO Sushi 115, 140 Texas de Brazil 126, 127 The Beacon Insurance Company Limited 82, 83 & Inside Back Cover The Carlton Savannah 108, 109 The Courtyard by Marriott 100, Inside Front Cover The Face and Body Clinic 97 The Gallery at Fine Art 53 The Gem Shop 45 The Ministry of Community Development 22 The Ministry of the Arts and Muliticulturalism 55 The Pasta Gallery 196 The Pathmaster 60 The Pavilion Restaurant 187, 194 The Rental Centre 114 The Royal Hotel (1978) Limited 106, 107 The Seahorse Inn Restaurant & Bar 196 The Shade Night Club and Restaurant 177 The SugarMills Suites The Tobago House of Assembly (THA) 144 The Travel Centre 60 The Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau 90, 91 The Verandah 136 The Villas at Stonehaven 184, 185 Things Natural 168 Tiki Village 126 Tobago House of Assembly (THA) 144 Tobago Now Tourism Services 165 Tobago Plantations 172 Tomley Roberts 54 Tourism Development Company (TDC) 90, 91 Tradewinds Hotel 100, Outside Back Cover Travel Centre 60 Trinidad & Tobago Sightseeing Tours 60, 61 Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau 90, 91 Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour 60 Operators Association (TTITOA) Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort Limited 188, 189 TWEE 45 Veni Mangé Restaurant 136 Villas at Stonehaven 184, 185 Vintage Imports Wine Merchants 19 Waterfront Restaurant, Hyatt Regency 128 Westshore Medical Private Hospital 96 Wonderful World 19 Yes! Tourism 60, 165 Yogurt Land 139 Zanzibar 132, 133 Zippers 42