Western 4W Driver #129 Autumn 2024

LAKE KING

GOLDFIELDS

SHIDDI POOL

HALLS CREEK

DIRK HARTOG ISLAND

SOUTHERN FOREST REGION

CAPE KERAUDREN PLUS

FORD RANGER WILDTRAK

BEACH DAYS DONE RIGHT

FISHING THE NORTH WEST CAPE

GOLDEN RULES OF PROSPECTING

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EDITION 129:

Editor

Tori Wilson

tori@vanguardpublishing.com.au

Graphic Design

Karen Morton

Content

Tori Wilson

Michael Collins

Advertising

Matt Clarke matt@western4wdriver.com.au

Natalie Du Preez natalie@vanguardpublishing.com.au

Administration

Steve Larcombe

Sally van Heemst

Printing

Vanguard Print

Cover image:

Dirk Hartog Island Courtesy of Kieran Wardle

As the sweltering heat of summer gradually recedes, making way for the welcoming cool of the approaching season, we proudly present our Autumn Edition #129, a culmination of adventurous tales and insightful explorations.

In this latest edition, join us as we accompany John Collins on a captivating journey through the arid yet awe-inspiring landscapes that define Dirk Hartog Island. Here, we delve into the rich tapestry of history, uncovering secrets and stories that have shaped this remarkable place.

David Wilson takes us on an educational escapade in the realm of sand navigation. Seated in the driver's seat of the latest Ford Ranger Wildtrak, he not only demonstrates the vehicle's prowess but also equips us with the skills and confidence needed to master the challenging dunes.

Alan McCall offers a unique perspective as we follow in the footsteps of the esteemed explorer David Carnegie. This journey through Western Australia's rugged interior is more than a travelogue; it's a vivid narration of the history, the challenges, and the sheer majesty of this untamed region. Our incomparable editor, Tori, embodies the spirit of adventure in every aspect of her travels. From the sprawling expanses of the Yeagarup Dunes, explored in the company of Graeme and Toni Dearle from Pemberton Discovery Tours, to the intricate techniques of off-road driving with Isuzu’s I-Venture Club, each experience is a testament to the thrill and beauty of 4WD adventures.

THE FRONT MATTER

with MICHAEL (SPIKE) COLLINS

The narrative of Grant and Linda Hanan’s exploration of the Kimberley region continues to mesmerise us. Their vivid descriptions bring to life a landscape rich in history and mystery, from the remote Halls Creek to the intriguing Wolf Creek Crater, as they journey back to South Australia. Their story is more than a travelogue; it's a deep dive into the heart of Australia's wild and beautiful north.

Geoff Lewis, our admired bush mechanic, offers an intriguing perspective on his quest for relics in the goldfields. His trusty Series 2 Land Rover is not just a vehicle but a companion that blends seamlessly into the landscapes and lore of the areas he explores.

Phil Bianchi’s historical insights into the Lake King area are a profound reminder of the deep roots and stories that underpin our destinations. Jo Clews, with her culinary expertise, brings a different kind of nourishment to our adventures. Her bush kitchen recipes, like the delectable flatbreads cooked over a hot plate, remind us that the joys of travel also lie in the flavours and traditions we encounter.

This edition, rich in content and spirit, encapsulates the essence of the changing seasons. The once oppressive heat and challenging easterly winds now make way for cooler, calmer days, storing their memories until they return with the next summer.

Our team at Western 4W Driver is deeply appreciative of our loyal readership. It is our privilege to share the exceptional

content from our dedicated contributors. As we all look forward to the adventures and experiences the new season will bring, we encourage you to stay adventurous, stay curious, and above all, stay connected. Let us continue this journey together, bringing the vibrant spirit of Western 4W Driver to life in every edition.

So, keep your eyes on the trail ahead. With Western 4W Driver, there’s always a new horizon to explore, a new story to tell.

Cheers, Spike

Issue 128 correction:

While Point Davenport Conservation Park doesn’t allow camping, camping is in fact permitted at many conservation parks across South Australia. western4wdriver.com.au

DIVING INTO

DIRK HARTOG ISLAND / WIRRUWANA

BY JOHN COLLINS

Rich in history and ripe for exploration, John Collins delves into the stories and sights to be found on Dirk Hartog Island.

IMAGES: © DIRK HARTOG ISLAND PTY LTD.

When venturing the Coral Coast — a tourism region that is essentially a strip northward from Cervantes to Exmouth Gulf — you can expect to come across some pretty spectacular sights and experiences. From swimming with whale sharks and humpback whales, to close encounters with rare Australian sea lions. The latter are our only native seal and the rarest seal in the ocean. They’re found along the nation’s southern and western coastlines, with population strongholds ranging from South Australian beaches to the remote islands of our state.

Travelling east, the Coral Coast hinterland is equally as remarkable, boasting magnificent gorges, coastal cliffs, and carpets of wildflowers during the winter months of the year. This region is also a great place to experience locally produced food such as freshly caught seafood from our pristine coastal waters, exotic tropical treats grown on the fertile banks of the Gascoyne River, and prime local meat products that together support an increasing number of regional food-based events.

Many Western Australian and other visitors travel the Coral Coast Highway northwards from Perth as a winter pilgrimage, of approximately 2,960km. This is an epic road trip that can be completed in about eight days.

There are many points of interest along the Coral Coast Highway that attract people who are wanting a more relaxed adventure. To enjoy some of these moments, travellers seek out the many interesting off-the-beaten-track destinations such as the Gascoyne Junction as they enjoy the extraordinary Kennedy Range National Park and areas outstanding night sky panoramas. A favourite off-the-beaten-track destination of mine to add to your agenda when travelling the Coral Coast, and the focus of this story, is Dirk Hartog Island (DHI).

Rather than following the already well reported self-drive side-track to DHI, this destination report will highlight on how people without the time, inclination, or perhaps the equipment are still able to have a relaxing respite and enjoy a truly spectacular part of Western Australia.

THE HISTORY

Known as Wirruwana by the traditional owners of DHI (the Malgana people) it was given its present name by Europeans after the Dutch sea-captain Dirk Hartog who first encountered the Western Australian coastline on 25 October 1616. Travelling in the Dutch East India Company ship Eendracht (meaning "concord") from Cape Town to Batavia (now Jakarta). The names of senior people on board, including Captain Hartog, were inscribed with the date on a pewter plate and nailed to a post and, after his ship, proclaimed the Australian mainland to be Eendrachtsland.

In 1697, Captain Willem de Vlamingh landed on the island and discovered Hartog's plate. He replaced it with one of his own, which included a copy of Hartog's and took the original plate home to Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

On 28 March 1772, the French Navy Officer and explorer Louis Aleno de St Aloüarn landed on the island and became the first European to formally take possession of Western Australia in the name of the King Louis XV. This involved a ceremony (which took place on 30 March) during which one or more bottles were buried on the island. One bottle was recorded as containing an annexation document and a coin. In 1818 French explorer Louis de Freycinet came across de Vlamingh’s plate and took it back to France. The plate was eventually returned to Australia in 1947 and is currently housed in the Maritime Museum in Fremantle. We didn’t hear much about these activities in our very anglicised portrayal of Australia’s

DOLPHIN BAY

beginnings and even less about Wirruwana. It is estimated that the Malgana people’s population was around 200 in 1874 at the time of British colonialist contact. However, it is quite possible that the Malgana had had occasion to encounters with European people centuries before then. Traditional accounts told of the Malgana trading with shipwreck survivors of the Dutch trading ship Zuytdorp, that was wrecked in this area in 1712, at a site now known as the Zuytdorp Cliffs. These accounts of the shipwreck survivors were narrated to the British colonists over a century later. According to this oral tradition, the survivors constructed two sizeable houses, and three outhouses, above the cliffs near where their ship had sunk, made of salvaged wood and canvas, and exchanged reserves of food for native hunting implements.

The island also has a long pastoral history that began in 1872, when Frank von Bibra took a mob of sheep, 800 cattle and his pregnant wife by bullock wagon from Perth to Shark Bay to take up the pastoral lease on

DHI. Following their arrival in the Swan River Colony in the early 1830s, the Bibra family were influential, with Bibra Lake in Perth being evidence of the family’s impact on the Swan River Colony.

Regular readers may recall how the Bibra family acquired large pastoral leases as the family pioneered its way north including being involved in the 1891 creation of the Gladstone Port Jetty (Western 4W Driver edition #124).

The DHI pastoral lease changed hands several times and by 1907 it was regarded as an ideal place for a sheep station as there was no danger posed by the Australia-wide rabbit invasion that originated from just 24 animals imported in 1859. A flock of 12,000 sheep produced approximately 400 bales of wool in 1909 and the pastoralist planned to increase the flock to 25,000 head.

The pastoral lease changed hands many times as the agricultural enterprise declined for various reasons until it was purchased in 1969 by then Perth Lord Mayor Sir Thomas

ROSE LAKE

Wardle. Sir Thomas purchased the island, which gradually transitioned into a private retreat for his family and later became his retirement home. Except for the homestead, the pastoral lease was eventually surrendered to become part of Dirk Hartog National Park in 2009.

The former pastoral homestead is now run as an eco-tourism resort and operated by grandson Kieran Wardle’s family. This pastoral lease’s transition from being economically reliant on agricultural production to supporting emerging nonagricultural enterprises, is an interesting more general example of an up-and-coming multifunctional rangeland.

THE EXPERIENCE

There are three transport options to visit DHI, with perhaps the best known being the “Hartog Explorer” ferry barge. This is best suited to independent travellers who are self-contained and with sufficient time to travel the off-the-beaten-track to Steep Point.

The “Hartog Explorer” is available to transfer 4WD vehicles from Steep Point on

the 15-minute trip across the waters of the South Passage to Dirk Hartog Island. For people seeking an ‘off grid’ back-to-nature trip, this is the right kind of adventure, a unique experience that gives you the freedom to explore the natural wonders of the island at your own pace.

For a short off-the-beaten-track adventure, the remaining two transport options are boat transfer and my favourite, by light aircraft.

When staying at the Eco Lodge, boat transfers from Denham to DHI are included in the package and your vehicle is stored in Denham at a secure location. The boat journey to the island is approximately an hour duration and the trip is a great way to experience the calm waters of the bay while also enjoying viewing the marine environment — such as dolphins, manta rays and even whales!

While the boat transfer is truly stimulating, I believe the most impressive way of getting to DHI is by light aircraft from Monkey Mia Airport to the Island airstrip. Depending on your needs, the flight time will be approximately 20 minutes. The exceptional colours of the bays and the opportunity

to spot some of the marine species is absolutely a decisive factor for me. For others, perhaps a combination of both experiences would be appealing and easily arranged when booking your Eco Lodge experience.

There are many activity options to choose, such as the Australia’s Last Sunset Tour where you stand upon 600ft high DHI’s cliffs. As the sun dips below the horizon visitors have a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean stretching out before them, knowing they are standing at Australia’s most westerly point.

Perhaps visitors will also spare a thought for the 726 sailors who lost their lives during the WWII battle between the Australian light cruiser HMAS Sydney and German auxiliary cruiser Kormoran. Both wrecks have been located on the seabed just 150 kilometres west of the DHI.

Travellers interested in this historical war time event will find other “side-tracks” associated with this battle as they journey to the north and the south. Maybe just soaking up the environmental atmosphere and the sunshine on pristine beaches or exploring further out to sea using a kayak or a standup paddle board would have more appeal?

AUSTRALIA'S LAST SUNSET TOUR

CLIFFS AT SUNSET

INSCRIPTION CAFE

DINING AT THE LODGE

DHI ECO LODGE

ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY

The variety activities that can be experienced are exemplified by the advertised “Dare to discover Dirk Hartog Island” option. This is a captivating marine transfer package from Denham to Dirk Hartog Island that offers unexpected luxury with a self-indulgent morning tea at The Inscription Bar & Café. Well-informed tour guides provide historical interpretation and information about the ‘Return to 1616 Nature Conservation’ programme and discuss the landscape’s World Heritage status. There is a guided tour of the DHI historical shearing shed to discover the island's pastoral history that operated for over 100 years that produced hundreds of bales of wool each year. To complete this unforgettable experience, enjoy afternoon tea or cocktails. Cocktails may feature “Inscription Gin”, produced by incorporating local botanicals, as a refreshment before heading back home.

For me, an important aspect of this side-track adventure is the vast number of options available to clients that are delivered by this family-run business. This feature ensures guests experience a flexible adventure that satisfies individual expectations and, as I’ve observed, is a characteristic of other high-end northern Australian bush-camp destinations. The result is an adventure well suited for travellers wanting a pause from their usual travelling routines, anyone without the selfdriving setup, or simply just feeling a need for a little pampering.

INFORMATION BAY

Visit dirkhartogisland.com.au for more information.

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NORTH WEST CAPE

BY JOHN BORMOLINI

INSIDE & OUT

John Bormolini shares a few pearls on where to head along North West Cape, including top spots to cast a line and catch your tea.

The North West Cape region is without a doubt one of Australia’s true crowning jewels, having been attracting local and interstate visitors alike for decades and with good reason. It’s both an enthralling part of the world as well as one of the most picturesque coastlines in the country with a host of attractions and surroundings that continually draw people back.

The outside or western side of the Cape features the world-famous Ningaloo Reef, one of the best stretches of coastline to visit in WA during our winter. The inside or eastern side of the Cape runs along the broad expanse of protected water that is Exmouth Gulf. In between lies the rugged Cape Range, another natural drawcard of the area. Various 4WD tracks snake their way up into the Range and provide some amazing views and photo opportunities. Take care though near the rocky ledges and edges of the trails that are next to steep drops.

Regardless of which part of the Cape you plan to tackle, the entire region has plenty to offer in terms of 4WD exploration, camping, and fishing, and though plenty has changed and developed over the past 40 years since I first visited, it’s still as captivating a region as it was back then.

CARBIDIA TRAIL ALONG NINGALOO

NINGALOO SUNSET

EXPLORING THE NINGALOO SIDE

The world-class Ningaloo coral reef that runs for over 250km along this coast comes right in close to shore in places, but on average it lies three to four kilometres out. It’s easily seen as a constant line of breakers separating the turquoise shallows and the deeper blue ocean beyond. It’s a stunning sight for passionate shore and boat anglers with “great fishing” written all over it.

The whole stretch takes in the coastal station country from Warroora northwards through Ningaloo, Coral Bay, Cardabia, the national park and finally Yardie Creek station, a magnificent northern strip of sandy bays and beaches.

It’s dotted with controlled coastal campsites but they’re heavily occupied for much of the northern winter, so getting in early to book a spot is essential (check out the websites for Nyinggulara National Park and North West Cape National Park coastal campsites). There are the homesteads themselves too at Warroora, Ningaloo and Yardie Creek that offer onsite camping, or if looking for a few extra facilities, the two caravan parks at Coral Bay provide other suitable accommodation options.

Exploring the tracks and sandy coastal trails between these spots is easy enough. Careful scrutinising of reliable and up-to-date maps from sources like Hema, checking with station ownership and referring to the latest Department of Fisheries info on the many sanctuary zones and the fishing regulations is absolutely essential though, especially for first time visitors. I find that if it’s been a couple years since my last trip to the Cape, something will have been updated. What doesn’t change is the picturesque sandy beaches, the gin-clear tropical water, and the warm winter sun on your back.

The possibilities and choices are almost endless. Good fishing can often be encountered at places like the Oyster Bridge near Coral Bay, Trisel access, Jansz and Jacobz beach, Wobiri and at the northern tip around to the Mildura Wreck, to name a few. And there’s plenty of others.

If you’re keen to tangle with the one of Ningaloo’s staples, the spangled emperor, find a sandy beach area with sections of reef nearby. The top half of the incoming tide coinciding with late afternoon into dark or the early morning is the perfect time. With a pilchard or fresh octopus bait the “spanglies” (and other species such as Moses perch, dart or other smaller emperor) will start coming in.

OYSTER BRIDGE

SPANGLED EMPEROR FROM THE BEACH

On the other hand, if you prefer to walk and have some fun prospecting some of the long beaches with a flick rod, take a small backpack with a handful of small chrome lures (like a 30-gram Halco Twisty) or some soft plastics or surface poppers. Small giant and golden trevally, doggie mackerel and queenfish often cruise around the ledges and sandy shallows and find glinting bits of chrome or gold, hard to resist.

In between the fishing there’s plenty of time to savour the other great parts to the Ningaloo surroundings. Do not come to this part of the world without snorkelling gear. Taking a swim while checking out the wonders of the marine environment here is special and along this coast the snorkelling is as good as it gets anywhere in Australia. Turquoise Bay is world renowned as one of the best drift snorkelling spots and anywhere near Bill’s Bay at Coral Bay, exceptional.

Yardie Creek and its small gorge, the beach at South Mandu, Mandu Mandu Gorge walk, Mangrove Bay and the Milyering Visitors Centre are all worthy of the time to check out. Remember that Yardie Creek is not always passable depending on the time of year and state of the tides.

EXPLORING THE GULF SIDE

Exmouth is the focal point for the whole Cape region and lies on the gulf side. From the town southwards there is plenty of opportunity to explore something different to the more well-published blue water depths and tropical reef sections of the west side.

Four-wheel driving on the beach south of the town along the gulf is best accessible from tracks opposite Learmonth. Exploring the beach north and south is fine with the tyres deflated to around 15psi and the old jetty there is great spot to fish and try for a squid. Long stretches of beach back to the north are worth stalking with decent polaroids for big yellowfin whiting that

cruise in close and, on the rising morning tide, are always readily tempted with small bits of prawn. The sandier the beach, the better. They’re usually around in number and great fun with the kids. Enjoy them with some fresh chips that night, back in town.

Just a couple of kilometres further south across a small creek bed lies Wapet Creek. To get to the south side requires heading back inland and around. Yellowfin bream and trevally are usually around and experienced mud crab hunters sometimes have success here too.

Approaching areas south of this are not as easy to get at but best done from off the highway into the area known as the Bay of Rest, a bigger and more expansive creek system with plenty of surrounding spots to explore. Depending on the state of the

GULF YELLOWFIN WHITING

THE SERENE GULF

tides and the water level, other species such as juvenile trevally and queenfish can turn up.

For the more adventurous again, there’s always the area beyond the Bay of Rest and Point Lefroy down to Gales Bay and the very the bottom of the Gulf. In years gone by accessing these areas was not particularly difficult but more recently the combination of Exmouth Gulf Station restricting entry and mining company works has made it much harder. If you are keen to explore this pristine shallow water at the bottom of the gulf, enquire firstly with the owners of Exmouth Station or Giralia Station at the very southern end. Giralia offers station stay accommodation and there’s plenty to take in while there.

more than the one day and explore the opportunities completely from the water, with those that pack a kayak also making the most of the possibilities.

This environment is very different to the deeper northern sections but there’s still an array of marine life, including the prized black spot tuskfish (or bluebone) — while often seen skirting around, landing one of these wary targets is not easy.

For the serious off roader, it’s even possible to cut across the Cape to the other side on the Cape Crossing 4WD track. Be prepared for a very slow, rocky crawl and some initial deep sandy red dunes. On the eastern side it starts near Learmonth with a couple of branches to explore.

With careful planning and a decent amount of time the Cape region offers up plenty to see and experience with the 4WD. Resist the temptation to go in the middle of summer, however. The Cape gets blazingly hot from December to February and even near the water it can be hard to take during the day. The ranges and more isolated spots are certainly not the place to get stuck or stranded when the temperatures are in the midforties.

Much of this bottom half of the gulf is best accessed with a dinghy or small boat with the shallow waters giving way to some small islands, Roberts Island being perhaps the best known. Some experienced locals take

PIKEY BREAM FROM THE GULF

BLUEBONE FROM THE SHALLOWS

GOLDEN TREVALLY CAUGHT ON A TWISTY

CAPE KERAUDREN

A COASTAL OASIS

Get to know the captivating nature of Cape K on your next big trip up the coast.

Embarking on a journey along Australia's western coast is a stunning sight to behold. Vivid colours and dramatic landscapes dominate the scenes. Yet, capturing the rugged beauty of the landscape with photos barely touches the essence of the experience. It’s getting out of the car, staying a while and really exploring the nooks and crannies of a place that creates memories worth taking home. Located off the Great Northern Highway, Cape Keraudren Coastal Reserve is an ideal spot for travellers traversing from Broome to Exmouth or heading towards Perth. Renowned for its exceptional fishing and crabbing spots, breathtaking sunsets, and exhilarating snorkelling, Cape Keraudren, affectionately known as Cape K, is one of those places worth taking the time to stop and explore.

Rich in culture and boasting diverse landscapes, this peninsula is a destination that lingers in one’s memory. While ideally suited for seasoned travellers with caravans, campers or camping equipment, Cape K

remains accessible via nearby airports, with accommodation available at a nearby Pardoo Homestead and the soon to be reopened Pardoo Road House & Caravan Park. From Newman, a scenic six-hour drive unveils stunning locales such as the picturesque Nullagine and the iconic Marble Bar, perfect for weary travellers to unwind. Alternatively, Cape K offers an exciting and unique experience in a remote yet stunning setting for those continuing their journey along the coast. Famed for its rich marine life, Cape K is a fishers’ paradise. Its rocky coastline, surrounding most of the cape, provides ideal fishing conditions during high tide. Surrounded by shallow reefs, Cape K is also perfect for fishing off boats, as its coral and mangroves attract and sustain a wide variety of marine life.

Steeped in the rich history and culture of the Ngarla people, who inhabited these

lands long before the arrival of Europeans, Cape K offers a glimpse into the past. Like presentday visitors, the Ngarla people revelled in the abundant marine life and crustaceans such as urntu (shellfish), jarrpul (mud crabs), and mirnurru (coral trout). Remnants of their existence are scattered across the sand dunes in the form of numerous middens, serving as poignant reminders of their enduring connection to this land.

To camp at Cape Keraudren gives the feeling you’re at one with nature along the rugged coastline of Western Australia's Pilbara East region. As campers prepare for their trip, ensuring adequate supplies and vehicle readiness is paramount, with the Pardoo Roadhouse serving as the nearest outpost for essential provisions.

While the cape imposes access fees to ensure ongoing maintenance and conservation of the area, travellers can make reservations via the shire’s website: eastpilbara.wa.gov.au/our-region/caravancamping/cape-keraudren.aspx

Cape Keraudren offers an incredible range of camping locations — each worth checking out. Cootenbrand Creek hosts a maximum of 10 campers with shallow waters that are ideal for young families. Clifftop Camps are perfect for those chasing breathtaking views, especially during sunset when Cape

K is bathed in golden-orange hues. Sandy Beach is easily accessible with 2WD and is a good option for short-term stays. The Ridge, located alongside Mosquito Creek, is the choice for those wishing to observe the diverse marine life that inhabits the cape. The Main Bay is the largest camping area with many utilities such as a boat ramp, toilets, and undercover picnic areas. From spectating whale migration to fishing off the coast, each campground makes the ultimate base for exploring the natural surrounds.

Wildlife thrives at Cape K, with turtles gracing the beach for nesting from early November to the end of March. Visitors are advised to remain vigilant and aware of their surroundings as saltwater crocodiles also occasionally inhabit Cape Keraudren.

Designated parking, rubbish disposal, and fish cleaning stations are provided for camper convenience. Dogs are also welcome, making it ideal for those who don’t want to leave their furry companion at home.

For more camping information, download the Pilbara East app at visitpilbaraeast.com

*ARTICLE PREPARED IN COLLABORATION WITH THE SHIRE OF EAST PILBARA

Sean Scott

Sean Scott

WHICH NEXT-GEN FORD RANGER WILDTRAK FOR YOU?

BY DAVID WILSON

David Wilson dares to defy common conceptions when comparing the Ranger Wildtrack Dual-Cab Ute Bi-Turbo Diesel with its V6 Diesel counterpart.

This isn’t going to be your typical motoring review, because rather than just recant what we already know about Ranger Wildtrak, I thought I’d tell you something you didn’t, or maybe, might not want to know.

Right now, there are three Ranger Wildtraks to choose from, two in 2.0L Bi-Turbo guise and the other a 3.0L V6, all are diesel.

Because blokes never want anything puny, the V6 version is walking out the door in droves, whilst the Bi-Turbo is playing second fiddle.

Ford introduced us to the Bi-Turbo back in 2019, initially in the Raptor and in 2020 as an alternative to the 3.2L in the Ranger. Which was the better motor? The Bi-Turbo.

Ford is playing the long game here because

THE 3.2L WAS A GOOD JIGGER ON FIRST RELEASE, BUT IN OUR TOWING TESTS IN 2019 THE BI-TURBO 2.0L SMOKED THE BIGGER BROTHER. AGE DID WEARY THEM.

as you all know, ICE (that’s Internal Combustion Engines) are on the nose and in the rush to get ready for 2030, or maybe 2050 (the goalposts keep moving), meeting emissions targets means initially pairing an ICE with a battery to create a mild hybrid and later going full EV (that’s Electric Vehicle). Or maybe ICE will kick on with hydrogen fuel cells? Twiggy seems to be betting the bank on that.

THERE’S A LOT GOING ON UNDER THE BONNET OF A RANGER BI-TURBO. ONE OF THE BONUSES OF GOING HYBRID AND EVENTUALLY EV, WILL BE FEWER HOSES AND STUFF AND MORE STORAGE SPACE.

Whilst all that is playing out in LegislationLand, back in the real-world we demand a vehicle with plenty of neddies, reasonable fuel-efficiency, RANGE especially, and reliability.

If you’re going to contemplate a Ranger Wildtrak purchase, let me attempt to influence your decision, (alas, I suspect it may fall on deaf ears because my conclusion

probably won’t suit many readers’ manhood).

I have to admit to liking Next-Gen Ranger. A lot.

The previous effort was getting a bit long in the tooth and needed a refresh and whilst that was coming, I thought the new D-MAX and Mazda BT50 cousins were the sharpest kids on the street.

Ford, and thanks to their European and USA divisions, think about things differently to the Japanese and their powertrains tell that story boldly.

The word sophistication comes to mind, offering four and six-cylinder diesel engines with a ten-speed auto transmission to arrive at a smooth and lineal delivery of mumbo the others can’t match.

So to put some fact into this novella, one of the family went out and bought a V6 Ranger

NEW NEXT-GEN RANGER HAS A CHISELLED SQUARE JAW AND FIRM BUM CHEEKS IN THE STYLE OF THE F-150 AND IT’S WINNING A LOT OF NEW CUSTOMERS.

YOU WANT TO BE THAT GUY ON THE BEACH KICKING SAND IN SOMEONE’S FACE DON’T YOU?

Wildtrak and on my advice, because I, like you will do, looked at the quoted torque number and saw 600Nm.

That’s a great value for a medium size dual-cab. I’ve been banging on for years that 500Nm should be the baseline for this category. Deign to supply something less, at your peril.

We took delivery of this Wildtrak a year ago and in that time have clocked up 25,000km, mostly bitumen with a fair chunk of towing and a little beach work.

What’s to love you say?

In this specification Ford opt to put the full-time/part-time 4WD system into it and that’s a great thing because having an AWD (that’s All-Wheel-Drive) mode is the icing on the cake when you spend a lot of time on the blacktop. It also helps on a well-made dirt road, but it really shines on a broken bitumen surface or one that’s suddenly wet.

YOU’VE GOT FOUR CHOICES WITH THIS SELECTOR AND THE AWD 4A POSITION IS THE BEST FOR ON-ROAD MANNERS.

That, when coupled to the ten-speed automatic with a terrain-response traction system, make the Wildtrak V6 a pretty cool thing. Except…

It’s no fire-breather. Progression is perfunctory, not the awe-inspiring I was expecting like my previous V6 diesel benchmark, that seen in the X350 NavaraBenz. That left me a little deflated and worried about my suggestion of it in the first place, when I’d had previous experience with the Bi-Turbo and liked it.

NO DOUBT MANY OF YOU WILL WANT TO TOW BOATS AND BOTH MOTORS OFFER SOME DECENT PEP FOR HAULING, BUT PLEASE, TONE DOWN YOUR ASPIRATIONS FOR BIG LUMPS, BECAUSE FRANKLY, ANYTHING OVER 2.5T IS TOO BIG FOR THIS CATEGORY OF VEHICLE.

It becomes really telling when my son-in-law hooks up his boat, an 80’s resto-mod Cruise Craft 570 Explorer with an oversize 200HP Yammie hanging off the back, the lot with the trailer coming in around 2.5T. Then the V6 becomes pedestrian, plenty of yawn but no yank when the gas pedal is pressed at highway speeds for an overtake. Add 285s on a 17” rim and it’s now dull.

This could all be down to Ford’s desire to make the fuel figures look good and gearing (remember this is a ten-speed transmission and the last four are overdrive gears) has been mellowed.

In this last year I’ve had my bum on plenty of rental Wildtrak Bi-Turbos and the driving experience is quite different.

Maybe what Ford has done to mask that 100Nm difference (Bi-Turbo produces 500Nm) is to play with the gearing-opposite, because when you get on the gas in a BiTurbo the thing positively leaps into action and ditches the cardigan for the lycra.

I’ve had a couple of occasions to hook my big alloy trailer on the back of a Bi-Turbo and filled with a couple of Grizzly 450s and a pile of training gear, the payload is around the 2.2T mark. The thing scoots with none of the all-noise, no-action result I sense with the V6 on the highway.

Chassis-for-chassis and suspension-for-

THEY BOTH ARE REASONABLY FLEXIBLE OFF-ROAD BUT THE AFTERMARKET CAN DO BETTER, MORE CLEARANCE, MORE CARRYING CAPACITY, MORE SUPPLENESS EVERYWHERE. NEWLY RELEASED RANGER WILDTRAK

my bleating last year with the release of a thing they call Wildtrak X.

suspension they’re pretty much the same beast, a sturdy ladder frame, IFS front end and a live leaf-sprung arse. They go over the bumps pretty similarly, but with a little less mass over the front axle (55kgs) I reckon the Bi-Turbo steers better and is more composed when things are of the corrugated kind. That’s another exercise in less = more.

The only downside I can see in the basic Wildtrak Bi-Turbo is that it misses the AWD transmission and gets the basic part-time setup. I hope you noted that little point there… basic, because Ford must have heard

Once upon a time manufacturers used to give us these “specials”, utes with a sticker pack, maybe some extra seat stitching, a key fob that won’t shut-up or they came in black — the same old buggy but with chintzy bling. Nope, Ford dug deep (you’ll pay for it but at least it’s decent kit) and offer the AWD transmission, beefed up Bilstein suspension (which will likely be too firm), more clearance, proper 17” off-road wheels and tyres, a nod to the Bronco in the USA with Trail Control and Rock Crawl off-road modes, a bash plate and some bits and bobs to identify it as a modded Ranger.

My editor is telling me it’s time to bring this story to a head, so here is what you want to know.

IMHO the Ranger Wildtrak Bi-Turbo is the go. If I was true to my form over the last forty years I’d be pissing off the stock wheels and tyres (because 18”, 19” and 20” are junk) and ditching the stock suspension because it too is rubbish (the boat on the

back of the V6 makes the rear go saggy by 60mm).

Because the X model does those two things AND offers all the other kit, I reckon at $76K it’s good buying and I’ll be safe in the knowledge that I’ve bought a more economical, cheaper to service Ranger with

all the attributes of the big guy but none of the vices.

Go on and hammer me with the old BS line about milk cartons being the only thing you’ll want to buy in two litres. You’ve never driven one!

WILDTRAK X HAS MORE OF EVERYTHING AND MAKES IT A PRETTY COMPETENT OFFROADER AND OUT OF THE BOX.

Turn up your confidence and free yourself from the fear of scratching the new paint. Isuzu helps its customers take their 4WD off city roads and on the path to adventure with its I-Venture Club training sessions.

BY TORI WILSON

So, you’ve finally taken the plunge and shelled out your hard-earned dollars to purchase the car you’ve been dreaming of for too long. You’re almost ready for that epic adventure where you hit the road, heading well beyond the city limits, where time is no longer a conscious construct and a sense of freedom finally sinks in.

The thing is, as you’re handed the keys for the first time, your new set of wheels look SO good, glistening brilliantly in the sunshine with its perfectly intact coat of paint, streak-free windows and fresh black tyres; you can’t quite bring yourself to actually use it for what it was designed for — especially if you only have half an idea of how to do so.

For some, those self-confessed rookies or newbies to the world of the fancy advanced tech seen in a new vehicle, assessing the bells and whistles of a top of the range 4WD model, like the Isuzu D-Max X-Terrain, can be a bit like sitting down at the cockpit of an airplane for the first time.

Each switch and dial has a specific function and purpose, but to the untrained eye, there are a bewildering array of choices that can make you feel like you're in over your head.

Visions of your brand-new vehicle grinding to a halt with your gearbox crying out in anguish, the tide creeping in as its belly lies deep in sand, or worse, somersaulting down a near-vertical dune might even flash before your eyes.

Fortunately, for all Isuzu owners out there, their manufacturer recognises just how important it is that their customers feel confident driving their vehicles, generating positive experiences off-road with their sights set on brand loyalty for the long-run.

Just as a pilot must learn to understand and master each control in the cockpit, a 4WD driver gradually becomes familiar with each button and lever, eventually turning a once intimidating dashboard into a world of possibilities and adventure.

This is where Isuzu UTE Australia’s ingenious I-Venture Club 4WD training program comes in.

Led by driver trainer extraordinaire and regular Western 4W Driver magazine contributor David Wilson, the program has been boosting the off-roading abilities and confidence of its Isuzu D-Max and MU-X owners, with its destination-focused training days, since 2014.

Based over in our neighbouring state of South Australia, in addition to having owned and operated his own 4WD driver training business — Adventure 4WD — since 1993, David’s been the lead trainer for I-Venture Club since its inception. He's a wealth of knowledge on the ins and outs of how to tackle 4W driving the right way and, if you’ve read his Western 4W Driver articles, you’ll know he has a knack for spinning a good yarn and keeping you entertained along the way.

Each I-Venture Club training session typically kicks off with coffee and a cooked breakfast before David gets serious with the technical

stuff. David takes participants through all the major must-knows, beginning with getting to know the basics of your 4WD composition and how the Isuzu part-time system functions (something David has written about in depth in recent editions of Western 4W Driver magazine).

As a brief refresher, as the name suggests, part-time 4WD vehicles typically operate in 2WD mode when on paved roads or smooth surfaces. The 4WD feature is activated only when extra grip is required across all four wheels. Generally, this is done by rotating a selector dial from 2H to 4H, activating the front axle assembly. When the 4WD mode is active, both the front and rear axles are locked together to provide the best grip on any loose surface that is less than perfect.

One little reminder though — a part-time 4WD should never be driven in 4WD on a paved surface. This is when you run the risk of suffering that troublesome thing called “wind-up” and the cause of potentially catastrophic damage to your driveline. The more changes in direction the greater the likelihood.

Tyre construction, the all-important tyre pressure selection, and HIGH vs LOW range all feature in the morning’s class, too; and while I could give you my hot takes, I’ll leave it to the trainer himself, who thoroughly covers these points within the relevant context of beach driving on page 50 of this magazine.

As the flood of info starts to sink in, pretty soon it’s time to hit the road — or, in this case, the off-road terrain — and put it all into practice through some trial and error where the real progress is made. In Western Australia, Lancelin sand dunes makes for a pretty spectacular fourbie playground to test out what might be a new set of wheels, and your newfound 4WD know-how.

Once setting your tyre pressure to the initial sand-appropriate pressure of 18psi and covering some routine radio checks to ensure connection, David, along with his wife Rose and son Tait on this occasion,

western4wdriver.com.au

Driver

guide the convoy every step of the way — from transitioning from 2WD to 4WD, to disabling traction and stability control, to switching from automatic Drive (or D for Dumb as David calls it) into the appropriate manually selected gears and a change of range when the conditions call for it.

Easing into things with some mild slopes and running winding laps through the powdery white Lancelin dunes, participants pretty quickly get a good grasp of the terrain and a feel for Drive mode versus LOW range and HIGH range. A few drivers struggling up the ascents have David getting the message across early on — momentum is key! Second message — straight steering! And for those really battling, ‘drive it like you stole it!’. Sometimes, a little nudge is needed to quell the nerves and David isn’t afraid to tell it like it is to get drivers over the edge of the undulating dunes.

He's out of his own vehicle for the most part, guiding each participant with tailored advice on the tricky bits on how to navigate their controls and master their handling — meanwhile combatting hostile winds on the day I attended, all for the cause.

Once the confidence is established, it’s time to tackle some steep razorback descents that call for bravado before advancing again and again, pushing the limits progressively as each task takes drivers to more impressive slopes and steeper angles.

To round it all out, some casual beach driving is added to the agenda as, let’s face it, this is on any 4W driver's regular to-do list, along with a good old bogging to demonstrate the simple steps to recovery. Adventure is certainly the aim of the game for the I-Venture Club, and a sense of camaraderie tends to come with it among the group of Isuzu owners who share excited banter about their new-found capabilities. Bear in mind, while these sessions are designed for novice drivers, even relatively experienced off-roaders will get a boost out of the sessions and have a great day out testing their limits in a fun and potentially new environment with fresh faces.

INFORMATION BAY

For Isuzu owners out there, visit iventureclub.com.au to explore the sessions hosted right across the nation — in Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Western Australia and soon, they hope, in Tasmania.

UNRIVALLEDdurability durability

SOLITUDE AT

SHIDDI POOL

BY ALAN M c CALL

Alan McCall traces the route of legendary explorer, David Carnegie, reflecting on his journey and the places he named along the way — from Mount Bannerman to Shiddi Pool in northeast Western Australia.

The turnoff was about 23km south of the junction to Wolfe Creek Crater on the Tanami Road, and the travellers in our convoy of four vehicles eagerly awaited the change in direction. The pastoralists from Ruby Plains Station were out aerial mustering along the track with a helicopter and motorbikes. The crater from the road looked nothing more than a small range as we drove past.

Arriving at our turn-off we stopped for some morning tea and had a look at the track. This track, which starts in station country, heads due west, before eventually passing the community of Wangkatjunka (Christmas Creek), which is not far from the Great Northern Highway. Most of the track parallels the northern boundary of the Great Sandy Desert and follows the dune corridors.

Our destination was Mount Bannerman some 50km away. Explorer David Carnegie

had his seventy-fifth camp on his 1896 expedition from Coolgardie to Halls Creek just south of the mount. He subsequently explored the ranges to the north naming Mount Bannerman, Shiddi Pool and Redleap Pool.

We followed the track to the west and it never deteriorated to an extent where we would be worried — a good track. A single gate signified the end of pastoral country. The track followed along a dune corridor with the usual desert spinifex interwoven across the surface of the sand.

We had a big day planned and hoped to make it to Shiddi Pool to the north western

side of the range to camp. First though, we would make for Mount Bannerman. We left the track to the north and began cross country 4W driving. We followed along the large creek on its eastern side — many large gums trees were growing along the creek line.

Arriving at the mount we settled in for a long lunch stop. From the summit, the view from all angles was superb. To the south was the Great Sandy Desert extending as far as the horizon would allow. West again, the desert, this range, and isolated peaks south west including Mount Erskine, which Carnegie later named. To the north the range which

VIEW TO THE NORTH FROM MOUNT BANNERMAN

THE TRACK INTO THE AREA LOOKING WEST

we hoped to go around this afternoon, and more desert to the east with a natural amphitheatre forming between Mount Bannerman and the adjacent peak.

Leading the team out we made for the eastern section of the range. Now and then we would come across some old tracks and try and make use of them. Mostly though they were overgrown, and too thick to conveniently follow.

The range consisted of a number of breakaway groups of outcrops, which looked stunning as we passed them by. It was really slow going — we kept as close as reasonably practicable to the range. One dune was really too large to easily get over, so we had to follow it around to the west where a nice view presented itself with a huge gap between sections of the range.

There were dry creeks cutting our path and one of these stopped two of the vehicles in their tracks. To get to the other side of the creek required hauling the vehicles over. The ground was quite rocky and a lot of weaving around the small tributaries of the creeks was required. As our course veered west after we passed the northern extent of the range, the number of rocks and boulders increased significantly, as did the thickness and impenetrability of the vegetation.

My sump hit and scraped boulders in this section twice. It required constant attention to pick your line of travel. There was a

sandridge running east-west in sight and the terrain would have been easier on the other side. However, I decided to maintain the vector we were on as it was closer to Shiddi Pool by direct line. In hindsight it would have been better to follow the north side of the dune.

Another three kilometres later and we arrived at a pleasant natural clearing around half an hour before sunset and decided to camp — the camp being walking distance to Shiddi Pool. It ended up being a long day, however we had eventually made it.

DIGGING A SMOOTH PATH ACROSS A SMALL CREEK

4WD ENROUTE

We set up camp and had a brief look at the pool, which was of great beauty. I imagine tomorrow will be just as big a day, as the pool and the surrounding creek system were indeed worthy of exploration.

David Carnegie himself arrived at the pool on 1 November 1896 and stayed in the general area for fourteen days, not for want of relaxation in a desert oasis, but of necessity. Three of his camels saw their fate in this vicinity — Shiddi, from whom the pool was named, Redleap and Prempeh. They all died from eating poison bush. Further,

two of his men, Charles Stansmore and Joe Breaden were overcome by sickness, Breaden with dysentery. Carnegie had called Shiddi Pool, Bronzewing Pool, prior to Shiddi’s death.

In this area Godfrey Massie, one of Carnegie’s men found another pool a mile downstream where he stayed overnight after some hunting. Another larger pool was then found further downstream which was named Redleap Pool, after the deceased camel.

In the morning after breakfast, we all went down to Shiddi Pool to have a good look. The pool was at a point in the gorge where it turned at right angles. It was a nice sight to see so much water here; we were still within the boundaries of the Great Sandy Desert. There were many petroglyphs engraved upon the rockfaces in many different forms. Then we began to hike downstream to try and reach Redleap Pool, about three kilometres away. We walked upon the sandy base of the creek which had large white gums encroaching upon it. There were a number of pools on the way and we thought we worked out which would have been the one Godfrey Massie hunted at, being larger than the others.

It was a hard walk and there were many twists and turns. At one stage we had to get out of the creek and walk along the bank as the creek became a thin gorge with huge

POSSIBLY GODFREY MASSIE'S POOL

SHIDDI POOL

drop-offs to the creek below. Eventually we reached Redleap Pool and some of us cooled our feet in the water. Here we looked for a tree marked by Frank Hann in 1896, which Carnegie mentioned he saw when he was there. We did not find it however; gee that Hann bloke got around!

Resting for a while we started to head back to camp, hoping to cut some distance off the journey by travelling above the creek. This worked, as we could mostly walk in a straight line, and the terrain was easy to traverse. I found an old tin can in the bush along the way. We were all tired and rested for a while before a meal of barbequed bacon and eggs was whipped up. A few of us went exploring the next day along a tributary of the creek that we were on now. We sought out any other pools

THE CREEK TURNED INTO A SMALL GORGE IN PLACES

which may have been upstream to the north east. A large pool was the reward for our labours and we were quite excited and happy as a result. There were more of the ancient petroglyphs along the walls of the pool. The pool was about 25m long by seven metres wide and would probably be as deep as two or three metres at its deepest.

We stayed for quite a while before setting off for camp. We followed the creek back all the way to Shiddi Pool and wondered how old the engravings on many of the walls were. We took our time. When it rains it must surely be quite a sight and I wouldn’t want to be in the way.

Our camp was a compact and efficient unit. With the generator as backup every now and then we were able to maintain the power to the fridges and the lighting. One campfire, four vehicles, six people, a dog, a million stars — and no one else in sight!!

We all agreed to walk along the creek to the new pool again in the morning and left camp about 8.30am. Now we all had a chance to see the engravings and to marvel at some of the pools along the way. There was something of interest found quite frequently, with someone shouting, “Hey have a look at this!” a common occurrence.

NORTH EASTERN POOL

PETROGLYPHS AT NORTH EASTERN POOL

PETROGLYPH WATER MARKER

We stayed for three nights here at Shiddi Pool and our time here was worth it. We thoroughly enjoyed our time at this remote oasis with much to see and inspect, and wonder at. We all agreed that it would be easy to spend more time here exploring, if only time would one day allow it. Leaving in the morning, I hoped someday that this would be the case.

INFORMATION BAY

Best time to visit is April to September.

Access is from Tanami Road.

The journey is more suited to heavy duty 4WD vehicles. Take tyre repair equipment as punctures can be a problem. A radiator 'bra' may be required. Fuel is only available at Billiluna or Halls Creek.

An excerpt from Hema's Desert map, North West Sheet.

Living the dream!

Eco Adventure Tours with Dave in convoy or his 4WD.

• Karijini NP

• Bremer Bay

• Helena Aurora Range

• DÉntrecasteaux NP

• Baxter Cliffs

• Pemberton

• and more!

FREE INFO NIGHT

discussing Australian Made Offroad Campers and Eco Adventure Tours to great destinations in WA. Next one 5th June 2024 at 7.30pm. Register now via our websites.

(08) 9240 8880

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CamperTrailersWA

Companion’s Rover is a portable lithium power pack that offers more than the typical dual battery system.

BY GRANT & LINDA HANAN

ALL CHARGED UP

With a new ute on its way that needed a 12V power solution added, we knew relying on the starter battery to power all our camping power requirements was never going to be the answer. We needed something to charge the usual types of gear such as a portable fridge, some camp lighting, a water pump, or simply for charging our devices. We shopped around and looked closely at a few different battery style boxes, as they’ve sort of become the new kid on the block. In the end, we chose Companion’s Rover Lithium Power Station unit, and took it away to see if it could deliver what we were after.

WHAT IS IT

The Rover Lithium Power Station is a portable unit with 100A/h of lithium battery technology and 2000 lifecycles specified. The Rover comes with a range of popular 12V outlets to power up all types of accessories, including 2xUSB, 2xUSC, 2x50amp Anderson plugs, 2x12V cig outlets, and 2xDC5525 jacks.

Besides these, it has an in-built 3W spotlight and a 5W area light. It also has an inbuilt MPPT (maximum power point tracking) management system for maximising energy extraction, a 10-amp solar input, and an LCD screen that displays state of charge and the amp draw. Lastly, there’s on/off switches to control the lights and power outlets.

To keep things recharged, the Rover comes with 1x12V cig style charging lead, 1x50amp Anderson charging lead, and a 240V mains power adapter charger. It’s a compact unit that measures in at 330x240x290mm and weighs 10.8kg. The Rover also has an inbuilt cooling fan to prevent the unit from overheating that’s housed in a robust plastic, yet stylish, and conveniently transportable power pack.

HOW IT WORKS

After ensuring the battery is charged, there’s 100A/h of lithium 12V power that uses plug and play for any of the 12V outlets. The outlets can also be used concurrently.

So, whether you want to run a portable fridge, some leads to external camp lighting, or perhaps just keep your personal devices charged, simply plug into any of the available outlets.

The unit is turned on by pushing the power button in for a few seconds. The fan then kicks in and will run for a short period before going into standby mode. The LCD screen on the front of the Rover lights up upon powering the unit on, and the backlight stays illuminated for about 30 seconds before going into sleep mode to conserve power. A simple touch of any of the buttons will awaken the unit and the screen display. Lights on the Rover’s front indicate the USB/ USC 12V outlets have power to go.

The LCD screen also displays the relevant symbol when a device is connected to any of the DC USB style outlets. A different symbol displays for the 2x50amp Anderson outlets which have their own on/off switch. Another two switches control the inbuilt lighting; one for the 5W area light, and another for the 3W

spotlight (which also has a series of flashing style programs).

The Rover’s maximum charging input is 10 amps, and you can use the 240V power pack supplied to keep the unit recharged when mains power is available. Alternatively, the unit can be recharged using a solar panel and the Anderson plug adapter supplied. While on the go, the unit can also be recharged using the supplied cig adapter lead plug. Simply plug the cig section into your vehicle’s cig socket, and the other end of the lead into the battery pack’s input plug. The Rover’s LCD screen will keep you informed of the percent of charge going in and out of the unit.

WHAT WE THINK

In the past, we’ve paid for expensive dual battery systems to be installed in our vehicles. However, we felt our new utility would benefit from having portable power that we could use while travelling on the go. On our recent trip, we used the Rover western4wdriver.com.au

to run camp lights and a small water pump, plus to recharge our devices and power our portable fridge away from the vehicle. Going forward, we can also see other benefits with the Rover. It’s something we could easily take out on the water in our tinnie, plus use it around camp in areas we may not be able to get our vehicle to.

Being a lithium power pack, the Rover is lightweight and great for portability. Having 100A/h means we’re not short on power. There’s also no further set up costs, it comes with multiple outlets and a couple of inbuilt lights, plus has an LCD screen for visibility. The plug and play solution tops things off for a range of 12V needs.

We did note the Rover’s cooling fan operates whenever there is more than two amps being drawn or going back into the unit to keep electronics and the battery cool. While this a good feature in itself, it might be a little noisy if the Rover was close to where you were sleeping. Something we’d like to see on a future model perhaps is some location tie down points included in the unit’s design. For now, we use the handle with a couple of straps which works fine.

SUMMING UP

Having a portable power pack like the Companion Rover that we can take wherever we go means we’re not limited to keeping it in one location. It’s easy to set up, and much kinder on the hip pocket versus the equivalent inbuilt dual car battery set up solution. The potential uses of the Rover are now endless, and we’re more than happy having 12V power at our fingertips anywhere we might need it.

EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE

It is our top priority to supply and fit your 4WD with the very best 4x4 accessories and gear developed for Australia’s toughest terrains, as a proud stockist of ARB and other quality 4x4 brands.

We support our customer’s needs in all aspects of fourwheel driving, whether it be for work, sport or recreation, and pride ourselves on providing exceptional service, every time.

We have both the licenses and experience to undertake a range of complex installations to deliver the comfort and safety you need.

BACK TO BASICS

BEACH DAYS

DONE RIGHT

David Wilson takes us to the beach and talks through the ins and outs of navigating sand like a pro — giving the know-how to master this classic warm-weather terrain.

ABY DAVID WILSON

s summer rolls into autumn, what is your favourite 4WD boy or girl going to want to do?

Go 4W driving on a beach of course! That’s been my existence pretty much since my mum and dad first plonked me into a coastal 4WD environment way back in 1974, and despite the enormous changes in

JUMPING OFF THE BOAT AT MORETON ISLAND QLD IS SOMETIMES FRAUGHT IF THE TIDE IS FULL AND A SPLISH-SPLASH IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN IS THE ONLY WAY TO GET TO THE INLAND TRACKS.

vehicle design in that time since, the rules for successfully engaging with the coast pretty much remain the same.

Jesus. I’ve just re-read that… fifty years!

READ THAT BEACH

Progress will only be possible if you get all your sand-driving ducks lined up and to do that, you want to have a look-see before you take the plunge.

My typical checklist of questions include:

• Where is the tide at and what evidence is there currently of what’s been happening during the last 24 hours?

• What is the density of the sand — dry and fluffy, or wet and firm?

• What other traffic has been down there and how rutted is it?

Armed with that knowledge I can make informed decisions on how to setup the vehicle for the journey.

MOMENTUM IS KING

You will have read/heard a million times before that keeping just enough speed on board to float over the top of the sand rather than dig down into it, is key to a successful sand foray. To achieve that you need two things, tyre pressure reduction and picking the right 4WD range. The last one is complicated today because of the interference of traction electronics, but more on that in a jiff.

MOMENTUM IS EVERYTHING ON SAND. WITH THE SAND DUCKS ALL LINED UP AND ENABLING A NICE CONSISTENT SPEED, YOU’LL FLOAT OVER MOST STUFF.

LET THE AIR OUT

I see plenty of lazy 4W drivers who will take their vehicles onto the sands with whatever road pressures they are currently running and that will almost-always be a value that is OVERINFLATED.

Do that and you’re heading for an instant bogging.

Placards are there for a reason, to inform. Now, before you cry foul and say your makebelieve 40psi/275kPa is the right one for your dual-cab ute or wagon and especially so if you’ve taken the leap and changed your tyres to an alternative light-truck offering, I’ll call BS on that.

Pressure, load and speed are the kissing (tyre) cousins in this excerpt and a typical D-MAX/MU-X, Ranger/Everest, Hilux/ Fortuner weighing in at up to GVM, doesn’t put an extraordinary load per tyre onto the

HILUX PLACARD COMMENDS 200KPA/29PSI FOR THE BLACKTOP WHEN EMPTY AND THE BACKS GET BUMPED TO 250KPA/36PSI WHEN HEAVY. THIS IS A REALISTIC STARTING POINT BEFORE YOU START YOUR PRESSURE DUMP FOR THE SAND.

ground. At somewhere between 600-800kgs individually, they’ll only need 29psi/200kPa to 36psi/250kPa to do the bitumen road stint successfully. So that’s likely to be your onroad pressure realm reality.

On sand though, you’ll want a lot, lot less and especially so if the sands on that day are of the fluffy, not firm variety.

Some days and with prior experience, you’ll know exactly what is required and on others you might want to experiment.

If you’re new to this I want you to try a bit of an experiment for me to validate your observations and that is to incrementally reduce your pressures, let’s call it ‘suck it and see’.

Get going from a starting pressure of 20psi/140kPa. That’s around a 30 per cent reduction and what it will do for you is elongate the tyre’s footprint (not the width) so the tyre can support that load over a greater surface area, and in turn the car has less work to do.

If the vehicle is struggling, let some more out. Try another 2psi, taking it to 18psi/125kPa, and I bet you’ll notice a BIG improvement.

A TYRE PRESSURE GAUGE HAS TO BE THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL TO HAVE HANDILY LYING AROUND WHEN YOU’RE GOING FOR A COASTAL JAUNT.

A little further up the beach you hit a really soft patch, perhaps where the wave action has scalloped the contours of the beach into a rolling wave of little hills. That’s where you might do another dump and try 15psi/100kPa. At that level, I expect you’ll have another moment of awe as your vehicle takes on additional new-found potential.

Now, there have been some days when the curious side of me overtakes the cautious and I’ll want to delve deeper. Mrs Wilson hates those moments, because she knows too-well that’s when I’ve had my get-stuck moments. I’ll elect to use my “emergency” pressure regime then and select 12psi/82kPa, 10psi/70kPa, or maybe 6psi/40kPa to get out of a situation when the risk of a stranding, coupled to a rising tide, really messes with your head.

Some caveats.

With each pressure reduction comes a need to reduce speed, remember the pressure, load, speed equation earlier? Whilst your

20psi/140kPa pressure will happily sustain 60km/h without overheating the tyres, anything sub-15psi/100kpa won’t, so you likely will want to be travelling no faster than 25km/h at the lower end of the pressure scale.

Caveat number two is about keeping the tyre on the wheel, and this rule is now incredibly complicated with the differences in wheel diameters these days. Wheel sizes have increased in response to bigger brake mass — bigger rotors and caliper positioning demand greater clearance, so the days of the universal 16” fitment are gone.

Once upon a time you could reliably-rely on 15psi/100kPa as being the safe minimum pressure threshold to keep a tyre seated on a rim. With lower pressures and sharp changes in direction, comes the risk of unseating the tyre’s “bead” from the rim, and being a tubeless fitment, there goes all your air!

I’ve noticed on plenty of occasions in the classroom that 18”, 19” and 20” wheel fitments go pop a lot sooner than they used to, and that’s one of the reasons I advocate a 17” fitment being the best option for most folk keen to go 4W-driving, because a taller sidewall offers much greater flexibility and yield, compared to a short one that’s stiffly inflexible.

Go on, experiment a little with the pressure. Be brave!

HIGH OR LOW, WHICH RANGE TO GO?

Plenty of folk are reluctant to employ LOW range in a coastal setting and a lot of that might be due to ignorance. If you don’t practice something on a regular basis you’ll never master it, but I can tell you LOW range on a modern 4WD (post-2020) will often be the only way to go when the sands are tricky.

If you consider that most beaches around

the country in national parks are governed by a blanket 40km/h speed limit, HIGH range might fail you because of the lack of instantly deliverable torque at your disposal, because you’re in too tall a gear-set. That’s further compounded if you’re letting your auto transmission do the gear selection, because left in D for Dumb, the vehicle can’t see what it’s about to run

LC300 IS OF THE 18” GENERATION AND DOING THIS …

up against and likely will be in the wrong gear and with nowhere-near enough engine speed to plough on through at that moment. It will kick-down to a lower gear, but likely too late, and with the inevitable risk of a stranding.

LOW range however, at that same 40km/h, will have you with a lot more engine speed and a significantly fuller band-with of torque to play with, an accelerator response that’s instantaneous, instead of dull.

You’ll also discover that using HIGH will often leave you with zero choices when the car starts to bog down. Gear-for-gear and range-for-range, first gear HIGH is about the same as third gear LOW, second HIGH

STOP, SELECT NEUTRAL AND TWIST THAT SELECTOR INTO LOW RANGE

D-MAX AND MU-X GET THIS LIGHT DISPLAY WHEN YOU SELECT LOW RANGE, CONFIRMING STABILITY CONTROL AND THE ENGINE OVER-SPEED FUNCTION OF TRACTION CONTROL HAVE BEEN CLIPPED

equals fourth gear LOW and so on. When you’ve got yourself into a boggy tangle and you’re in HIGH range and first gear and movement is just about non-existent, you’ll be rueing the missed opportunity to select LOW earlier, because you would have had more gears up your sleeve.

LOW also shuts down Vehicle Stability Control (VSC), one of the traction aids that’s great on a bitumen road at high speed, but utterly useless on a beach with plenty of yaw moments as you navigate everyone else’s tracks. Any side-to-side tail-wagging of your fourbie will have the car thinking it’s going to crash and its response will be autonomous brake applications and engine speed neutering, that’ll cost you all your precious momentum.

You might argue that finding the VSC button whilst in HIGH range and holding it down for anything up to seven seconds or so might turn off VSC and also Traction Control (TRC), getting you the control back you want. Maybe, but if you overstep the 40km/h speed threshold you’ll likely notice the safety-Nannas re-emerge, applying the brakes and killing the throttle.

LOW range (and this varies a little, vehicle to vehicle) also kills/dulls the same engine speed interruption that TRC will apply if a wheel sensor notes wheel spin. It’ll leave the braking function to still rear its ugly head at around 1,100rpm, but you’ll still have full control of the throttle. To prevent the wheel spin and the brake traction application from occurring in the first place, you’ll want to, you guessed it, let more air out of the tyres!

MANUAL MODE IS THE WAY TO GO

Given that nine out of ten 4WDs sold these days are autos, you’ll likely be driving one and if you’re new to 4W driving, you probably haven’t explored the manual-mode or sports-shift function of your gear lever, and the manual-mode is very useful in a sandy environment.

IN A TOYOTA WHEN YOU PEER DOWN AT D YOU’LL SEE S, THAT’S THE SPORTS (MANUAL) MODE – USE IT!

It’s all about engine speed. Leaving the gearbox to its own devices, in Drive, will be okay on something predictable, a flat and firm beach with a surface that approximates a solid dirt road, but the fluffy sand illustration demands greater finesse. That requires a gear that offers a good clip of speed with plenty of torque and will hold it there until the challenge is done and you elect to change up a gear or go back to Drive.

Using LOW range as I do when the conditions are challenging, my sand-driving regime goes something like this:

• Get going from a standstill in second gear, not first when in sand, first is too slow for a decent launch and you’ll be looking for second gear almost immediately, so nip that gear change in the bud

• Once you’re successfully underway, quickly change up into third and then fourth to keep building the momentum, using all the torque in its peak speed range to keep you mobile

• If the sands are now obliging and the drama is diminished, select Drive

• If you’re about to make an exit off a beach or enter one and it’s a mish-mash of everyone else’s tracks, get back into a lower gear, second or third to get the engine speed up once more whilst you deal with the potential for a bog

RANGER DANGER! SOMETIMES STAYING IN THE TRACKS IS A GOOD IDEA AS THEY’LL OFTEN GUIDE YOU AROUND A CORNER WITH A MINIMUM OF STEERING EFFORT. IN THIS CASE WE’RE COMING IN TOO FAST, UNDERSTEERING AND JUMPED THE RUTS AND NOW WITH A LOT OF RH STEERING LOCK AND THE INEVITABLE BOG! — BEACHPORT SA

STRAIGHT STEERING FOR THE WIN

What has mud driving and sand driving got in common? Keeping the front wheels in the dead-ahead position.

So many times I’ve seen drivers completely oblivious to where their front wheels are pointing and it’s an easy mistake to make, because the feedback from the steering wheel is different from what you’d get on a hard surface.

Dialling in a couple of locks left or right is a bit like putting the brakes on, because the front wheels are no longer running straight and true, you might as well have a grader blade out the front now.

OLD MATE IN THE D-MAX HAD A WHOOPSIE MOMENT DEALING WITH THE SIDE-SLOPE DOWN TO THE WATER’S EDGE. PROBLEM SOLVED PRETTY QUICKLY ONCE WE GOT THE FRONT WHEELS POINTED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. — LANCELIN BEACH WA

Often this problem is exacerbated on a beach that features a pronounced sideslope.

With the car following the contour of the beach and you as the driver no longer seeing a flat horizon, you’ll inevitably start to steer uphill, meaning the front wheels will be assuming the grader position and costing your momentum. Little steering corrections are good in this situation to keep the vehicle tracking parallel to the fore-dune, but you need to be focussed on returning the steering to centre for the majority of the time to preserve your momentum.

HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM

That would be a bogging.

It will be a rite of your sand driving experience that you’ll get stuck on one or more occasions and I can tell you that panic shouldn’t be part of the solution.

Keeping some clearance under the car is paramount for an easy retrieval, persist with lots of wheel spin and all you’ll manage is a

chassis on the ground and lots of work to fix it, so get off the gas!

If you’re travelling on your own, you’ll likely be reaching for the tyre pressure gauge/ deflator for some extra pressure release, getting some gardening done with the shovel and/or maybe using a recovery board like a MaxTrax or TredPro.

If you’re leaning toward the recovery board idea then placement is everything.

When you were spinning the wheels did you note which ones were spinning, because they are the ones you have to restore the grip to.

Ordinarily, and thanks to the “open” differential action, two wheels of your four will be spinning and usually a diagonal pairing. They are the ones you want to put a board beneath, the other pair will be having a sulk, sitting there stationary and contributing nothing to the exercise.

The positioning of the boards correctly will determine whether you get the car out on first attempt or destroy your boards.

DO THIS IN THE CLASSROOM REGULARLY TO DEMONSTRATE THAT KEEPING YOUR RIGHT FOOT BURIED ON THE GO-PEDAL WILL ALMOST ALWAYS REWARD YOU WITH A CHASSIS ON THE GROUND. — STOCKTON BEACH NSW

Dig them in deep and steep under the leading or trailing edge of the tyre, depending on whether you’re going forwards or backwards. You want to get the first quadrant of the board directly under the tyre then bend them skywards, backfilling the gap and compact the sand,

IT’S AMAZING HOW EASY THESE THINGS DISAPPEAR. LANYARD-ENABLED MAKES THE RETRIEVING EASIER!

that way the board will engage quickly, instead of spinning on the board’s surface uselessly.

Use the barest minimum of accelerator pedal, because more than mere seconds of intense wheel spin will fry the tread cleats off the board.

Another rookie mistake in sand is omitting to attach the lanyards. There have been a couple of times I’ve been using borrowed boards without the strap and in the fluffy sands of Lancelin (WA), Moreton (QLD) and Gunyah (SA) are a couple of boards, that post-recovery, I couldn’t find for quids. Having a bright orange strap in sight, when the board is completely buried, makes for a cheap day’s entertainment. If you find them please send me an email at iamadill@ lostrecoveryboards.com.au

THE ANGLE LOOKS SEVERE BUT IT’S ALL ABOUT GETTING THE TYRE AND BOARD IN CONTACT WITH ONE ANOTHER FOR A QUICK HOOK-UP

STRIKING

Grant and Linda hit the tracks around Halls Creek and show us some of the area’s highlights.

BY GRANT & LINDA HANAN

We’d already been in the Kimberley for several weeks by the time we arrived at Halls Creek. There’d been many trip highlights after having travelled up from SA, having chosen to tour the region in an anti-clockwise direction for this trip.

Starting our adventure in Kununurra, we’d already covered the Gibb, Derby, Broome

and the Dampier Peninsula, and onto Fitzroy Crossing — so, we were essentially on the home straight when we arrived at Halls Creek. Though, by no means were we in any hurry to rush this section. We liked the fact the area was jam-packed full of history and had some fascinating local attractions to explore.

But before telling you about those, let’s turn the clock back to goldrush days of the 1800s. While Coolgardie and other areas south in WA had experienced some early goldrushes during the 1890s, it’s the one named the Kimberley Goldfield from the Halls Creek region that claims the title as the state’s first, back in 1885. A few prospecting groups had been combing the area for gold for a while, but a find in a dry creek bed of around 250 grams by Charles Hall and a few of his mates is what really kicked things off. As much as they tried to quell mounting speculation a goldfield had been discovered there, the world was experiencing an economic depression at the time and people just couldn’t keep away. What originally started as a trickle of prospectors to this newly found Kimberley goldfield soon turned to a flood, with people coming from far and wide. A town was soon established and supported at least a few thousand people at its peak. That’s a massive feat considering how isolated and remote this corner of the country was back then, and still is today. As it turned out, the goldrush was short-lived for many reasons, and as quick as the prospectors came, most left. Once the old town’s mud brick buildings began falling into disrepair, the decision was made to create a new town closer to other services. When the Kimberley gets battered year upon year with torrential wet season rains, we’re surprised they actually lasted so long! Things really were ramped up by the 1950s to get a new town up and running, and a suitable site was chosen 15km from the old town at the location we know as Halls Creek today.

We pulled into Halls Creek one Saturday afternoon and found the streets almost empty. So, we headed straight for the servo to top up the 79 with some diesel and to restock a few supplies. After hearing some shouting and whistling not far away, we went to investigate and found most of the town had turned out at the oval for a local footy match. A quick glance at the western4wdriver.com.au

scoreboard and we could see the local Halls Creek Hawks Men’s team were running their opponents in all directions. So much so, they were nearly five goals up on their Ganinya Giants Men opponents and it wasn’t even half time. We didn’t stay to watch the rest of the game, thinking it would be a bit of a white-wash, and we were right. We learnt a few days later when we came back into town, the Hawks had a strong six goal third quarter to eventually win the game by just under 10 goals.

Over the next few days, we spent time out of Halls Creek along the Duncan Road. If you’ve never travelled this road before, it’s full of gorgeous scenery and has some fabulous attractions. It’s a good dirt road that loops from Halls Creek and passes the back of the Bungle Bungles and Lake Argyle before popping out onto the Victoria Highway near Kununurra. It’s a ripper of a trip, and all in all is a little more than 440km long, crisscrossing the WA/NT border numerous times in the process.

We weren’t looking to do all of the Duncan, choosing to stick to the area around the old town of Old Halls Creek. Not far from town, China Wall is the first attraction we stopped at along the Duncan Road. This natural vein of quartzite rises nearly six metres and stretches for almost one kilometre. It’s pretty impressive to say the least, especially if you see it in the late afternoon sun. A bit further on, Caroline Pool is 15km from Halls Creek and was going to be our next stop. It’s a few kays off the Duncan Road, and was once a popular spot for locals to hang out for swimming and picnics. Although interestingly, it was also the site of the first Halls Creek police station who had set up here in tents in 1886. Not a bad place to set up we think! However, once the old town kicked off, they packed everything up and shifted to the old town a year later. The camping at the pool is pretty hard to pass up, especially if there’s a bit of water around. It’s not a big camping area by any stretch, but there is some shade and a couple of

A GLIMPSE OF CHINA WALL

drop toilets. And if you’re really lucky, you might just jag this place to yourself.

If you continue to stick to the Caroline Pool side track, you’ll pass Sophie Downs Station in around seven kilometres. But if you keep straight on and drive through the Bob Black Hills (shown on maps), you’ll come to a three-way intersection. Take the middle track until it ends a couple of kilometres further, and you’ll come to the ruins of an old stone hut across the creek. This hut is a real oldie and played an important role during goldrush days. After a track for bringing in supplies and transporting gold was made from Wyndham to the old town, this stone hut was used as a place where men and horses rested before continuing their journey.

After looking around the old hut, we headed back out onto the Duncan and into the old town. Once crossing a causeway over a creek (this creek plus the town were named after the prospector), you arrive at what’s

THE DELIGHTFUL CAROLINE POOL

left of Old Halls Creek. When the goldrush kicked off in 1885, it wasn’t long before the town had a couple of pubs, four stores and two butchers. While these building structures have long gone, the only original remaining structure is a remnant of the town’s public offices. The building’s exterior and interior walls were made of mud brick and had a substantial three-metre wide verandah that provided shelter from sun and rain. The public offices building was once a substantial size. It was built in the early 1890s, and was used as the town’s post office, postmaster’s quarters, and the Warden’s Court. Some years later, its only

THE STONE HUT RELIC NEAR CAROLINE POOL

use was as a post office before the new post office opened in “new” Halls Creek during the early 1950s. Once this happened, it spelt the end of an era for the building which went into decline after roofing iron and some of its timbers were stripped and used elsewhere. Other than the public offices, it’s still possible to see other building foundations scattered about. There’s also some old street signs that remain around the place, and you can just make out some of the town’s actual streets where these signs are missing.

As with most old towns, the cemetery paints a sad picture of what life was like in those early years. There are more than 60 burials recorded at the cemetery, but plenty of unmarked graves are reputed to be scattered about the surrounding hills. There’s no doubting that life would have been tough. With oppressive wet season conditions and then a lack of water during the dry, living conditions would be far from ideal. And the usual culprits of the day were the ultimate killers — fever, dysentery and

scurvy. Other mines were worked a short time later a little further south of Old Halls Creek as you travel the Duncan Road. These included the Golden Crown, Ruby Creek, Mt Bradley and Butchers Creek Mines. However, it was the Lady Margaret Mine on Brockman Creek which was one of the more prominent mines in the area. Around this location, there were two pubs, some stores and a butcher that catered for up to 400 men working in the region. Although you wouldn’t know it if visiting today, as there’s not much that remains except the ruins of a hut just to the west side of the road. These days, it shows on many maps as “Brockman’s Hut”.

NOT A LOT REMAINS OF BROCKMAN’S HUT

THE TROPICAL OASIS AT PALM SPRINGS

CATCHING THE LAST OF THE SUN AT SAWPIT GORGE

Further along the Duncan Road, the calming scene at Palm Springs is 40km from Old Halls Creek. It’s a real oasis as it’s a permanent spring fed waterhole that’s postcard perfect and somewhere you can pull up stumps for the night. As inviting as it looks, we’ve only ever used it as a coffee or lunch stop, as it’s located a little too close to the main road for our liking. You’ll find many date palms are dotted around this tranquil setting that were supposedly planted by Afghan cameleers during the 1800s. But if you’re looking for a real cracking camp, our pick is Sawpit Gorge. It’s only six kilometres further on from Palm Springs and located well off the road. There’s a narrow

entrance track that takes you through spinifex covered, rolling red-coloured hills as they wend their way towards the gorge; so you really don’t know what to expect of the gorge until you get there. But take it from us, it’s a stunning spot that has the Black Elvire River flowing through it and plenty of good camps. It’s also a top spot to cool off if you’re there early in the dry season and there’s still some water around.

After heading back to the Great Northern Highway, we now turned north towards Purnululu National Park. The 50-plus kilometre entrance track can be a bit of a mixed bag that includes a few rocky crossings, but nothing serious. The scenery is pretty speccy on the way in, so we’re never in a hurry anyway. Camping within the national park needs to be pre-booked online and is something we still can’t get used to. That aside, there’s a couple of campgrounds to choose from in the national park and one of these allows generators. Purnululu is a big park and the attractions are spaced well apart. We don’t rush, we always allow

TYPICAL LANDSCAPE AROUND OLD HALLS CREEK

LICHEN ON THE BEEHIVE DOMES AT PURNULULU PROVIDES THE GORGEOUS COLOURING

BUNGLE BUNGLE REFLECTIONS

a minimum of a few days to get around. If you’re a first-time visitor and looking for the orange-striped domes that generally typify the Bungle Bungles in glossy travel guides, you’ll find them at the southern end of the park. Popular places found at this end include Cathedral Gorge, which has an amazing amphitheatre, and the views from Piccaninny Creek are just outstanding. But be warned … you’ll need to arrive early at these places if you want to beat the bus tours. Generally speaking, they arrive somewhere around mid-morning.

Up the northern end of the park, there’s a range of walks with a few including interpretive signs. The towering walls of Echidna Chasm are simply stunning and the contrasting colours of ancient livistona palms found here are very spectacular. You’ll also find Kungkalanayi Lookout at this

end of the park that has 360-degree views of the ridges and surrounding escarpment. It’s one of our favourite lookouts in the park and is a delightful spot to have a cold drink and watch the sunset. But if you’ve come all this way and can spare the cash, then there’s nothing like seeing the national park from the air. Helispirit has a base at the park during the dry season and runs regular chopper flights to give visitors that bird's eye view of the domes plus other key points of interest in the area.

As we returned to Halls Creek, it was a quick stop for a final fill up of fuel and onto the Tanami Road where we aired down and

ENJOYING ONE OF THE WALKS AT PURNULULU

BOWER BIRD NEST AT PURNULULU

pointed the LandCruiser towards Wolfe Creek Crater. You could do a day trip to the crater from Halls Creek if you were pressed for time, but we generally head home to SA this way and like to call into the crater for an overnight camp. We also love the fact the spectacular crater landscape changes each time we visit. This time, we found plenty of water had pooled inside the crater after late cyclonic weather conditions had hit the Kimberley only a few weeks earlier. We could

see the birdlife clearly enjoyed a bit of water as well. Flocks of corellas and budgies could be seen and heard as they buzzed overhead and made their way down into the crater for a drink. But turn back the clock 12 months or so to our previous visit, and we found the crater bone dry, but wildflowers in bloom. So, we’ve been able to see something different each trip. From the crater, it’s a short drive to the campground where there’s plenty of individual designated

IT WAS FABULOUS TO SEE THE CRATER WITH WATER THIS TRIP

campsites with a few drop toilets scattered around. We chose our site, got ourselves set up, and settled in for a cool night. When we’d previously been experiencing regular Kimberley overnight temperatures anywhere upwards of 25 degrees, anything below 20 was starting to feel cold!

After whipping up a few pancakes for breakfast the following morning, our stay at Wolfe Creek Crater spelt the end of our

ALL SET UP AT WOLFE CREEK CAMPGROUND

Kimberley sojourn. Time to pack up, get back to the Tanami, and head down to Alice Springs and onto SA. We find the Tanami is a good way to get back home, although its traffic is sure to increase as more bitumen continues to be introduced.

As you read this article, don’t put things off any longer, and start planning a trip to the Kimberley. But remember … it’s a massive place with plenty of things that’ll keep you busy. You might just want to keep a few travel plans up your sleeve because in reality, one trip is never going to be enough!

INFORMATION BAY

For info about Halls Creek and its attractions, check out hallscreektourism.com.au or phone: (08) 9168 6262.

For info, permits and bookings on Purnululu National Park, see: parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/park/purnululu or phone: (08) 9168 7300.

For info and permits on Wolfe Creek Crater National Park, see parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/park/ wolfe-creek-crater or phone: (08) 9168 4200.

GOLDEN RULES

FOR GOLD PROSPECTING

Discover the cardinal rules of prospecting and the many synergies between this historic pastime and the codes of the 4W driving community.

BY LUKE CLATWORTHY

We are indeed extremely fortunate that we live here in Western Australia. For people who enjoy 4W driving across our great state, we have countless locations that can be explored and appreciated. Something that can often be overlooked is the fact that stretching from the Kimberley region through to the Southern Coast is that we live in one of the best places for gold prospecting in the world and this brilliant pastime is so readily accessible to the 4W driving community.

In fact, 4W driving enthusiasts already have a range of essential skills and experience vital to become successful detectorists seeking the thrill and excitement of searching for gold. They already have the tenacity, determination, skills, and attributes of living and travelling in remote and sometimes rugged locations in vehicles that are well-equipped and adapted to successfully handle such expeditions. They also demonstrate that steely resolve that some of our original gold prospectors displayed when they roamed the length and breadth of this vast country seeking the precious metal. A great proportion of our inland regions were indeed explored by our early prospectors wanting to strike it rich. Their stories are fascinating and are sometimes overlooked today much to our detriment.

It would not take much for your average experienced 4W driving enthusiasts to add metal detecting for gold to their repertoire

during any planned outback trip. In my first article for Western 4W Driver, I covered the type of metal detectors suitable for someone wishing to search for gold here in Western Australia. The correct detector and gaining the experience and skill to use one is paramount as is knowing the best places in which to search for nuggets.

Besides the obvious lure of finding gold and potentially helping to pay for a 4W driving trip or holiday, metal detecting for gold can also take you to areas around Western Australia that perhaps in the past you have not thought could be incorporated into your previous expeditions off the beaten track.

If you decide to give detecting for gold a go and add the necessary equipment required, it is vital to know that there are a set of rules that applies to all those wishing to go prospecting or fossicking. These can be known as the ‘Golden Rules for Gold Prospecting’ and your adherence to these is essential. Let us unpick the following seven rules in a little-more detail.

RULE #1 ALWAYS PUT SAFETY FIRST

This first rule is one that any 4W driving enthusiast already follows putting you at a distinct advantage over others. In order to safely detect for gold, it is vital that you have the capacity to carry enough water

to cover your daily drinking and washing requirements as well as an emergency situation that may arise with your vehicle or if you become stranded. This obviously applies also to food. You also need to carry additional reserves of fuel in the event of becoming lost or driving further distances than previously planned. A well-stocked first-aid kit and knowing how to use it is a no-brainer and as you know, can save your life. As per 4W driving, taking a suitable remote first aid training course is a must for the overall health and safety of your family and friends.

Communications are also vital. Having access to multiple communication devices when travelling in remote locations looking for the yellow metal adds peace of mind. These can include quality GPS units, UF Radios, personal location beacons (PLBs)/ (EPIRBs), spot devices, and satellite telephones. Knowing how to read a map and using a compass are also skills that

most experienced 4W driving enthusiasts already possess. The communications available to us today are something the oldtime prospectors could only dream about. While on the ground in the outback when searching for gold, a quality and reliable set of hand-held UHF radios are also very useful to enable communication between everyone in your group when away from camp.

RULE #2

OBTAIN A MINER’S RIGHT PERMIT

Here in WA, law requires you to purchase a Miner’s Right prior to any prospecting being undertaken, whether detecting for gold or fossicking for gold, other forms of minerals or gemstones. This allows you to legally prospect on Crown land with any handheld tools and equipment (including metal detectors) and to take and keep samples and specimens of any mineral weighing up to 20 kilograms. It allows someone to conduct

geological mapping and testing for minerals, peg mining or prospecting tenements, and collect water and camp with the specific intention of prospecting / detecting.

A Miner’s Right also allows you to enter and pass over land to obtain access to Crown land you may wish to detect. Please note that having a valid and current Miner’s Right does not give you authorisation to undertake the above-mentioned activities on private or reserved land unless the purpose is a common, mining, or public utility. For land that is covered by Native Title including that within Crown Land, more information is presented below under Rule Numbers 2(a) and 2(b).

Cost to purchase a Miner’s Right at the time of writing was $29.50 and these can be obtained from any Mining Registrar’s office across our Goldfields regions, or online from the Department of Mines, Industry Regulation and Safety (DMIRS) Mineral House at Level 1, 100 Plain Street, East Perth. More information regarding purchasing a Miner’s Right can be found at dmp.wa.gov. au/Documents/Minerals/Miners_Rights.pdf

RULE #2(A) LAND UNDER NATIVE TITLE

Native Title rights and interests relate to land or waters possessed under traditional

laws and customs acknowledged and observed by Aboriginal people or Torres Strait Islanders and are recognised by the common law of Australia. The laws and customs which give rise to Native Title rights and interests, which may vary between groups, must have been acknowledged and observed in a ‘substantially uninterrupted’ way from the time of settlement.

Some of the areas where Native Title may exist in Western Australia include:

• vacant or unallocated Crown land

• some reserve lands such as national parks, state forests and public reserves

• various pastoral and agricultural leases

• some land held by or for the benefit of Aboriginal people or Torres Strait Islanders

• oceans, seas, reefs, lakes, rivers, creeks, swamps, and other waters that are not privately owned.

RULE #2(B) ACCESS TO LAND SUBJECT TO NATIVE TITLE

A Miner’s Right does not provide the holder with a lawful right to access land subject to exclusive possession Native Title rights. In circumstances where exclusive possession native title exists, a Miners Right holder must seek the permission of the relevant Native Title party before entering this land. However, pursuant to s104 Mining Act 1978 (WA), entry onto land, including Native Title land, is permitted for the purposes of surveying, marking out or posting notices in connection with an application for a mining tenement. Further information including areas of land under Native Title and their location/coordinates as well as information and who to contact to seek permission to detect can be found on the DMIRS website. If planning a metal detecting trip to look for gold, knowledge of where Native Title is granted is required as well as gaining formal permission to detect on any land granted Native Title in advance prior to setting out.

DETECTING WITH GARRETT AXIOM

RULE #3

OBTAIN A 40E PERMIT

This third rule only applies if you intend to apply for a permit to detect for gold on land situated within a granted Exploration License. This permit is not necessary if you have the written permission to detect from the actual tenement holder. A 40E permit provides you with the right to obtain access to a nominated area of Crown land, conservation land or a granted Exploration License with hand-held tools and equipment for a period of three months.

A granted Exploration License is described by graticular blocks. Access to these is restricted to up to 10 nominated graticular blocks within one granted Exploration License. Each graticular block is approximately 310 hectares in size providing ample space in which to detect.

A set fee is placed to obtain a 40E Permit. The best definition for Crown land within a granted Exploration License is all vacant Crown land, pastoral lease land and reserve land for common, mining, and public utility. Remember any form of prospecting/40E permit is permissible within a national park, nature reserve, townsite, other form of classified reserve or private property such as farming land.

If your detecting takes you onto a pastoral

lease, developing a positive relationship with the lease holder is so important. Seeking their permission to detect prior to any search and letting them know where you intend to stay and when is more than common courtesy; if you get into trouble, having them know where you are is a wonderful safety net. Notifying the pastoralist also ensures the safety of the detectorist if the pastoralist has planned activities (such as mustering, baiting, vermin culling, etc).

It is also important that you take all necessary steps to prevent fire, damage to trees, other property, or livestock when on a pastoral property. Remember to cause as little inconvenience as possible to pastoralists and restrict the number of passes or re-passes made to a minimum. This limits damage to any pastoral roads and tracks made especially in adverse weather conditions. Should damage be made, repair this damage, and inform the pastoralist. Sound familiar? Any experienced 4WD enthusiast already does this. Should you find gold within a 40E Permit area, you are required to advise the exploration license holders and the DMIRS within 14 days.

RULE #4 ALWAYS OBTAIN WRITTEN PERMISSION

Unfortunately, this rule is sometimes overlooked by people wishing to metal detect for gold. Gaining written permission is required if you intend to prospect within a tenement granted to a third party such as an exploration or mining company. This applies to all types of mining tenements including Mining Leases, Exploration Licenses (if you do not have a 40E Permit) and Prospecting Licenses. Most exploration and mining companies will give permission

GOLD FOUND WITH THE GARRETT AXIOM

for metal detectorists to search their leases (not near any active company exploration / mining). They will ask a detectorist to inform them if they find gold so that they can themselves further investigate. As already outlined, gaining written permission to metal detect/prospect on Native Title Land is also required. Again, positive communication and courtesy is vital to establish a sound relationship. Do the right thing and you should have no issues in gaining further permissions to metal detect.

RULE #5

COMPLY WITH ALL LEGAL REQUIREMENTS WHEN PROSPECTING WITHIN A

RULE #6

ALWAYS RESPECT CROWN LAND AND LAND UNDER NATIVE TITLE AND THE ACTIVITIES UNDERTAKEN WITHIN

Remember when you apply for and purchase a Miner’s Right, this allows the holder to prospect/detect within Crown land that is not under Native Title. These areas are owned and maintained by the State Government. Presently, approximately 92 per cent of all land is Crown land within Western Australia and is used for a variety of purposes. More than 33 per cent of Crown land is under Pastoral Lease meaning that the area you are detecting in may be on a mining lease or tenement that can

RULE #7

WHEN METAL DETECTING AND CAMPING, ALWAYS LEAVE AN AREA YOU HAVE VISITED BETTER THAN YOU FOUND IT

This is another one that 4W driving enthusiasts always already follow. Remove all rubbish, cause no damage to the local environment or infrastructure such as tracks, fencing, gates, or water points and especially important to any metal detectorist worth their salt always fill in your holes once you have dug a target. Unfortunately, there are still detectorists both looking for gold and coins and relics that when they find a target and dig it up, they fail to fill in their holes. This oversight is extremely lazy and disrespectful; some areas have seen metal detecting banned simply because some people leave holes unfilled. These can also

cause injury to people, livestock, and native fauna.

To find out more, contact your nearest metal detector stockist, metal detecting club or prospecting forums online. DRMIS also have available reference and information guides providing visiting prospectors with a summary of their rights and obligations. These include Prospecting in Western Australia, the Prospecting in Remote Areas pamphlet, and Travelling in Remote Locations – Mine Safety Matters pamphlet available in hard copy of downloaded from their website. Finally, DRMIS has Tengraph; an online resource that is a spatial enquiry and mapping system displaying the position of Western Australian mining tenements and petroleum titles. It provides a current and accurate picture of all land currently under mining activity and is used to determine ground that is available for mineral exploration. It is quick and simple to use and can be accessed by computer, tablet and on your phone. Further details can be found at dmp.wa.gov.au/Tengraph_online. aspx

In my next article, I will cover the best locations in which to detect for gold, coins, and relics across our vast Goldfield regions. Hesperian Press based here in Perth have a vast range of quality books detailing the history of our earlier goldrushes that make for fascinating reading and provide a valuable insight into our early prospectors and explorers. Many a tip has been found by successful detectorists reading some of these amazing accounts of our golden past. For more information, see their website at hesperianpress.com

LIFE IN CUE, AT THE “QUEEN”

Find out what makes the Queen of the Murchison an iconic stop for those who pass through Cue.

If you’ve ever passed through or stayed a while in Cue, you’ll know the Queen of the Murchison. For good reason this heritage building is a popular spot to stop for all kinds of people visiting the quaint and remote town, located 620km north-east of Perth.

Former owners of the Pilbara’s Emu Creek cattle station, Joyce and Darryl Penny, purchased the “Queen” in 2017 and since then have breathed new life into the space, making it a comfortable, warm, and lively destination for a brief stop, or extended stay.

We’ve spoken to Joyce about what makes the “Queen” so iconic and what travellers and lodgers can expect to experience. What makes Queen of the Murchison such an iconic destination?

Queen of the Murchison started life as the

BY TORI WILSON

Capitol Hotel in 1936 and was sturdily built with brick and extensive use of jarrah. The staircase is exceptionally well-made and has carried many thousands of guests to their rooms. The front verandah has seen many a social evening with pastoralists, miners and travellers yarning over a cold beer, taking time to get to know one another.

What kinds of people and personalities tend to stop and stay?

We see the whole gamut of personality types. People who are excited about being on their first outback road trip. World-weary workers who have stayed in hundreds of hotels, motels, guest houses, mine site dongas, and even camped in tents and slept in swags and are grateful for the personal touches and interest by (myself) and staff. Families who rarely get to spend time together or communicate deeply and

yet can’t put aside their phones or laptops. Slightly nervous but otherwise wise and confident older folk on their own going down memory lane having worked in the district or had family properties close by.

What’s it like to dine at the Queen?

Dinners are home-style, generous servings and we are often told they represent good value for money. All guests sit together at long tables where possible, so you get a chance to talk to different people with a different point of view to your own. Many city people get a chance to talk at some length with workers who know the area well, to Aboriginal guests and international guests so it is like a large family gathering every night. I also think it is good for the mental health of the workers who are here for months at a time to talk to people other than their work colleagues.

Can you share some insights into Cue?

Cue is home to a tough breed of person who is a straight talker. There isn’t much room for ego or pretention here — our climate and lack of shopping facilities ensures that. Gold mining has been the main industry here since 1894 and there is still plenty of gold being dug out of the ground. Even prospectors still find nice nuggets, so there

can still be excitement when a larger nugget is found. It’s a town with a proud history and even though you might think there isn’t much left, it just won’t die.

What would you recommend people experience in the area when they come to stay?

Walga Rock is a place to see. Granite Garden is a great bird watching location, Lake Nallan, Lake Austin also have good bird sightings after rains and this year the wildflowers between Mullewa and halfway from Mt Magnet to Cue have been spectacular. The old jail, the old railway station and the two-storey Masonic Lodge are interesting town buildings, as are the Community Resource Centre, Police Station and Courthouse.

Is there anything else you’d like readers to know?

Cue and the district deserves at least a two day stay — you can’t see it all in one day. March to October are the best months as November to February can be hot and uncomfortable outside with temperatures in high 30s to 40s. You need to come properly prepared with plenty of water and appropriate clothing if you come in summer.

WALGA ROCK

Photo: Chris Morton

RUST

BY GEOFF LEWIS

RELICS &

PART 1

Geoff Lewis journeys through the Goldfields, encountering forgotten and hidden rust and relics along the way.

All those years ago, back in the 1890s, the Goldfields of Western Australia kickstarted something in the state that’s continued on until this day. The mineral wealth within WA has played a major role in not only the state’s development, but it’s identity, too. Its influence has been profound and enduring, and it will undoubtedly continue to play a significant role in the state's growth and prosperity for years to come. It begs the questions: Where did these early settlers originate from? And how did they manage to carve out a living in a region so vastly different and more unforgiving than the lands they left behind to journey to the other side of the world?

Having explored and worked in the Goldfields for some time, I have been fortunate enough to catch glimpses of the remaining relics and the subtle yet telling signs, (like rust) that linger. These remnants, often hidden, are visible to those who know where to look, offering a fascinating window into the past.

My latest adventure through the goldfields, in my trusty 1961 Land Rover Series 2 88inch, begins from the western edge and stretches all the way to the eastern fringe, where the vast sand dune country of the Great Victoria Desert begins. As always, travelling in the forgotten footsteps of those who have gone before us.

Heading west from Kalgoorlie, we — myself and the Series 2 — reached the township of Coolgardie (Land Rovers have distinctive personalities of their own and can get moody if you don’t recognise them. If you have or own one, you’ll know this all too well).

Established in the early 1890s, Coolgardie emerged on the map following the discovery of alluvial gold by prospectors slowly journeying eastward from the town of Southern Cross. This significant find marked Coolgardie as the first major settlement in the Goldfields, a distinction it held until the discovery of gold in Kalgoorlie, located 40km further east.

Turning northward, we left the township of Coolgardie and embarked on our prospecting trail along the historic coach road. This route, once the main artery and lifeline of the Goldfields, promised to guide us through a journey rich in history and discovery.

As I emerged from the canopy of salmon gums, the silhouette of Mount Burgess, the highest peak in the Goldfields, came

into view. Taking a left turn at the townsite of Bonnevile, where only a solitary plaque remains, I was reminded of its once bustling heyday. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder of the town's history, particularly the underground mining disaster that brought it to prominence in the early part of the last century.

Navigating along well-worn wheel ruts, the tires of my vehicle struggled for grip, skittering across the steep, rocky track as we ascended to the summit of Mount Burgess. Landmarks like this not only hold significant historical value but also serve as crucial navigational markers. In the early days, before settlements were established to the north, fires were often lit atop Mount Burgess. These beacons aided lost prospectors, helping them find their way back to civilisation. By observing the fire at night, prospectors could draw a line in the sand by their campfire, using it to determine the direction they needed to head in the morning, or to reorient their compass. This practice was a vital lifeline in the rugged and unforgiving terrain.

As the day waned and the sun dipped low in the sky, it was time for the Landy and I to descend from the peak and set up our camp for the night.

Upon waking the next morning, I flicked aside the canvas flap of my swag to find the fire still smoldering from the night before. As I gently coaxed it back to life to boil water for a morning cup of tea, I took in the surrounding bush where I had set up camp. Near the old town ruins of Kunanalling, I noticed a distinct change in the trees and vegetation in the nearby shallow gully. It became clear why a town had once flourished here; I had unwittingly camped right on the geological contact and a shear zone.

Vegetation and trees thrive in soil that is rich in nutrients, which in turn are derived from the breakdown of rocks. Different rock types produce soils with varying nutrient profiles and characteristics. For instance, sandstone, abundant in quartz, breaks down into a soil that is low in nutrients and drains quickly. In contrast, bluestone (basalt) decomposes into iron-rich clays, which are nutrient-dense and retain water effectively. This relationship between rock composition and soil quality plays a crucial role in determining the type and health of the vegetation in a given area. This particular contact and shear zone, known as the Zuleika Shear Zone, is a strip of heavily fractured rock with faults that have enabled the deposit of super-heated fluids rich in gold-bearing minerals into the surrounding rock near the surface. Since 1895, when Kunanalling was established as a town, this zone has continued to yield gold.

After packing up camp and completing the pre-trip system checks, we set off to take a closer look at the ruins of Kunanalling's last standing building — the Pub. Whoever built it was an optimist of the highest order. Stone buildings are a rarity in the goldfields, not due to a lack of available stone, but because towns here have historically been transient, flourishing only as long as gold is found. Once the gold runs out, these towns are often dismantled, their materials gathered and repurposed for the next hotspot.

The pub at Kunanalling stands as a monument to a bygone era, now largely forgotten. Its primary visitors these days are the occasional passing 4W drivers and the rabbits that have taken up rent-free residence. In its heyday, this establishment was the community's hub, renowned for offering ice cream — a notable luxury and a scientific marvel in the early 1900s.

Though the walls of the pub now stand silent, they weren't left undisturbed for long after construction. One of the stones in the wall was discovered to contain a gold nugget, leading to its prompt removal and crushing for the gold. The resulting void was filled with locally made bricks, fashioned from the clay of the nearby creek bed. This episode is a vivid testament to the gold rush era, where even the walls of a building could conceal unexpected treasures.

While the pub serves as a point of interest, it is to the south where one can truly appreciate the engineering ingenuity of the pioneers. Here lies the old town's reservoir, a testament to their skill and

REMAINS

KUNANALLING RESERVOIR

KUNANALLING RESERVOIR SUB CHANNEL

KUNANALLING RESERVOIR SUB CHANNEL

KUNANALLING RESERVOIR MAIN CHANNEL

resourcefulness. Constructed with locally sourced granite for its surrounding walls, this expansive structure was excavated into the ground. A network of channels and trenches fans out into the surrounding bushland, ingeniously designed to capture as much runoff as possible from the heavy summer rains, channeling it into the reservoir. The reservoir itself is lined with asphalt to prevent water from seeping away into the sandy subsoil. This construction not only highlights the pioneers' mastery of resource management but also their deep understanding of the local environment.

Now over a century old, the reservoir still remarkably retains much of the rainwater after heavy downpours, despite the asphalt lining at its base being cracked and home to various plants and trees.

As much as I could have stayed observing the relics of Kunanalling, it was time to move on. I switched on the naturally aspirated aircon of the Landy (simply removing the door tops) and continued northward, eager to see what other historical treasures and natural wonders lay ahead.

As the speedometer fluctuated between 50 and 55 mph, with the occasional unexpected bump keeping me alert and focused on the road, I couldn’t help but marvel at how bustling this area must have been in the early part of the last century. Now, I pass through places that were once thriving towns — like Kintore for example — their existence now just a memory marked by a sign.

Navigating through the mounds of waste rock from the open cast mining operations, the familiar salmon gums gradually faded into the background, giving way to the expansive blue and grey hues of the bush plains that stretched out towards the horizon. At first glance, this terrain might seem featureless, but it harbours a unique landmark amidst the saltbush — Rowles Lagoon.

Rowles Lagoon is, in reality, a clay pan and

ranks as one of the largest in the Goldfields. Owing to the dense composition of the clay, it is remarkably efficient at storing water with minimal seepage. As one of the few permanent water sources in the region, it has played a crucial role for all who have inhabited this area. This lagoon would have been especially significant in the early days for the establishment and sustenance of the nearby sheep station at Creedo, providing a vital resource in an otherwise arid landscape.

After enjoying a light lunch and topping up the oil in the Land Rover, we were only a few kilometres away from our next camp set-up. This part of the journey sparked a curious thought: in those early days of prospecting, once the gold was found and water sources were located, how did the prospectors process their finds? The logistics of turning raw gold into a tradable commodity in such a remote and challenging environment seemed like a serious hurdle to overcome.

How did they do it? I'll go into this in more detail in Part II of this article.

Once again, we journeyed along the corrugated dirt road, heading due east. We passed the charred remnants of what was once the Ora Banda pub and continued north past Davey Hurst, making our way to the outskirts of what used to be the town of Marelee.

Turning off the main road 10km south of the town, the Land Rover and I navigated an overgrown track. Amidst the whirring of gears and the ticking of the engine, a loud clap of thunder broke through, signaling a change in the atmosphere. The humidity had noticeably increased, a sure sign that a storm was imminent and about to descend upon us at any moment.

With luck we made it to our would-be campsite, a clearing, just in time. I swiftly set up the swag and started a campfire, but almost immediately, nature unleashed its

MAKING MILES TO ROWLES LAGOON

ROWLES LAGOON

full force. The canvas tarp near the swag was torn away, and the burgeoning campfire was quickly extinguished by the deluge. I made a quick dash for the shelter of the Land Rover. Reaching the safety of the car, wind and rain hit hard and rocked the little car side to side. When would the storm let up and how long would we be stuck here?

We’ll find out in the next installment of Rust & Relics in the winter edition of Western 4W Driver.

Scan the QR code to watch Geoff adventure through the Western Australian Goldfields, discovering forgotten rust and relics in his Series 2 Land Rover.

FOREST

FROM TO COAST

Experience some of the best sights within the Southern Forest region including its famous Yeagarup Dunes, on a guided 4WD tour with Pemberton Discovery Tours.

BY TORI WILSON

Located 323km south of Perth and 125km east of Augusta, Pemberton of the Southern Forest region is a biodiversity haven, surrounded by national park thriving with towering karris, cascading waterfalls and clear rivers. With the Gloucester, Warren, Beedelup, Greater Hawke D'Entrecasteaux and Shannon National Parks all within reach, this old milling town and surrounds are ripe for exploration, by foot and 4WD. For those interested in where to start, local experts in navigating the area, Graeme and Toni Dearle of Pemberton Discovery Tours, make it their life’s work to share their knowledge on the local flora, fauna and landscapes.

Whether you’re equipped with your own 4WD and opt to tag along, are travelling without your own vehicle, or just aren’t afraid to admit you might need a helping hand to tackle the tricky Yeagarup Dunes; a ‘Beach & Forest Eco Adventure Tour’ by Pemberton Discovery Tours is well worth doing as a means of exploring some of the more remote and unique parts of the Southern Forest region.

Graeme and Toni launched Pemberton Discovery Tours back in January 2000, based on strong eco-tourism principles and a vision for spotlighting the incredible biodiversity and landscapes in the area. As the primary tour guide and driver of an epic old-school, 14-seater Toyota LandCruiser;

Graeme is a well-experienced 4W driver and guide, which doesn’t take long to work out once you’re on his tour. But what really stands out from the moment you meet him, rippling through the tour from start to finish, is his love and respect for the land.

Setting off from the local bakery, Graeme invites guests to hop on board his LandCruiser bus before heading out towards Warren National Park. While on the road, he pays his respects to the Pibelmun, or Bibbulman, people who originally occupied the land, peppering the journey with commentary on the history of how Pemberton town was founded and has since evolved.

The Pibelmun-Wadandi, or BibbulmanWadandi people, originally knew the area as Wandergarup, meaning ‘plenty of water’ in their language. It wasn’t until 1861 that Europeans first settled nearby, with the village Pemberton founded in 1911 before being declared a town in 1912. In 1913 a sawmill was established in Pemberton, following an order to supply half a million railway sleepers for the TransAustralian Railway. By 1939 Pemberton Mill was the largest in Australia, and its reputation as a mill town echoes through

its streets today. Fortunately for the sake of the forest and its old-growth karris, from the 1900s protections were put in place for Warren National Park, which was officially declared an A-class reserve in 1977. For many years prior, the Fisherman's Track, heading into Drafty's Camp, had been a revered locals' favourite.

As we pass the first bout of majestic karris, Graeme mentions some are as old as 350 to 400 years old and played a part in reseeding the forest. When the mill was built, they select logged instead of clear felling, which is why some of these old trees survived to tell the tale. Karri can grow to just under 90m, says Graeme, with the famous Gloucester tree standing 59m tall.

Our first stop within the park is for Graeme to hop out and pluck ripe snottygobble (Persoonia longifolia) off the ground along the side of the track. Graeme hands them around for all to have a go at squeezing the inside out and popping them in our mouths to chew slowly. Used by Aboriginal people for its medicinal properties, it appears and tastes almost like a mini green plum.

With karri loam supporting the karri forest, as we progress deeper in, we can see the effects of laterite soil/coffee rock emerging to support the jarrah trees, while sandier loams dominate as we near the coast. Upon entering D'Entrecasteaux National Park, it’s time for a leg stretch on the banks of Dead Man’s Lake, and a chance to admire the natural scenes from a closer perspective. What we can see are some pretty spectacular land formations.

D'Entrecasteaux National Park spans a vast area along the southern coast, made up of a unique mix of rugged coastline, pristine beaches, towering sand dunes, and dense forests. The park is named after the French explorer Bruni D'Entrecasteaux who charted parts of the region in the late 18th century. The park's diverse ecosystems support a wide variety of flora and fauna, including several endangered species. Consolidated limestone cliffs overlaid with sand at Point D'Entrecasteaux provide a perfect habitat for coastal heath wildflowers and orchids, making it particularly spectacular to explore in spring. Wildflower season runs September to November, peaking in October.

Across the day, a captivating array of wildflowers catch our eye, with wildflower micro-influencer Sophie Xiang on board the tour for its incredible access to diverse flora. Zebra orchids (Caladenia cairnsiana), coral vine (Kennedia coccinea), tassel flower (Leucopogon verticillatus), pink fairy orchids (Caladenia latifolia), and the scented sun orchid (Thelymitra macrophylla), are just some of the dainty, native wildflowers we spot peeking up at us from the ground below.

Sophie Xiang

Sophie Xiang

Sophie Xiang

Sophie Xiang

YEAGARUP DUNES

BLUE SUN ORCHID

CORAL VINE

GRAEME (LEFT), TONI AND AARON

What’s particularly unique to the area though, is the impressive Yeagarup Dunes — the largest land-locked mobile dune system in the Southern Hemisphere. Yeagarup Dunes are an extraordinary natural phenomenon and a highlight of D'Entrecasteaux National Park. Stretching for 13km, the dunes rise metres above the surrounding karri forest and are progressively moving slowly inland, swallowing forest and wetlands in its path. It’s inevitable they’ll one day swallow the forest whole — quite a confronting image to envision as we jump back into the LandCruiser and begin our ascent up the wall of sand ahead.

Generally considered a challenging route, Graeme navigates the dunes with ease and precision. Toni mentions some cautionary tales of inexperienced drivers going off the gazetted track, causing damage to themselves and their vehicles. It's a worthy reminder of how important it is to stay on track, not only for safety reasons but also to keep the dunes in their renowned, pristine condition. It would be easy to do on a sunny day where the light reflects of the sand and the undulations and steeper drops become harder to distinguish. Which is why travelling with an experienced guide is a good option for many.

Once on the top, it feels as though we’re standing amid a desert, if it weren’t for the surrounding forest and views out to the wild Southern Ocean. It’s a surreal sight and lives up to the hype.

Upon reaching the Great Southern Ocean, it’s a bit too windy to take a dip this time, but it would be a great spot for a swim on a calmer day. Here, the Warren River meets the sea. The river mouth opens and closes

SPECIAL OFFER! YEAGARUP HUT

Located on the south side of Yeagarup Dune system within D'Entrecasteaux National Park, Yeagarup Hut is an idyllic group camp base for exclusive use. Accessible by 4WD only, the Hut can host up to 40 people, with not another soul in sight.

Pemberton Discovery Tours

kindly offer a 10% discount to Western 4W Driver subscribers*. Apply the code W4WD10 when booking.

*Conditions apply. Offer valid until 20.12.24 for select dates only.

throughout the year, depending on the force of the water flow. We stop to take it all in, with many of the guests running to the water to dip their feet.

Graeme mentions the endangered Hooded Plover and Fairy Tern nests can be seen in these areas. Data is collected during the year on the tours in an effort to further understand these birds.

After admiring the scenes of the river and sea, and the impressive stretch of rugged coast, we make our way back to a rest area within the park, for a packed lunch supplied by Toni and Graeme to finish the day. Having experienced the incredible sights, smells and tastes of the forests, lake, river, coast, dunes, birdlife, wildflowers, native bush tucker all in a day’s work was more than we’d bargained for. It’s no wonder Graeme and Toni are so passionate about sharing this slice of Western Australia with those who visit.

INFORMATION BAY

For more information, visit pembertondiscoverytours.com.au

LAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT

BY PHIL BIANCHI

KING

Phil Bianchi exposes the hidden gems around Lake King and reminds us it’s worth taking the time to delve into the area’s history and highlights.

LIDDED GNAMMA HOLE AT LILIAN STOKES

Isuspect most people charge through Lake King on their way to places such as Ravensthorpe, Hopetoun, or Esperance, without giving it a second thought. Although Lake King is 460km from Perth, it’s a pleasant drive to get there.

In August 2023, I had the privilege of being asked to do a presentation to locals on the history of the Rabbit Proof Fence and the exploration history of the Lake King district. I centred my presentation on three well known WA explorers who travelled the area — John S Roe, the father of WA exploration, Alfred W Canning of Canning Stock Route fame and Frank H Hann, who named more than 500 features in WA.

Roe, in 1848, was the first white man to explore the area, he was on a NE traverse from Cape Riche to the Bremner Range. Frank Hann, explorer, prospector, and bushman, explored the Lake King area in 1901, naming Lilian Stocks Rock, and numerous other features including Swallow Rock, Hatter Hill, Digger Rocks and Mt Gibb.

Canning, in 1901, was surveying for the construction of the Rabbit Proof Fence (RPF).

On a Friday, Kevin Penny, a former local, kicked off the presentation with an introductory speech before I shared

with the group what I knew of the history of the area. Kevin delved deeper into various local historical topics, such as gold prospecting at Hatter Hill and the 1930s depression and, soon, individuals from as far as Ravensthorpe, Cuballing, Newdegate and Hopetoun expressed their interest in discovering more. The next day, the opportunity for further discovery was ripe as we rounded up the troupes to embark on a tag-along tour around the district, setting off with 34 people across 16 vehicles in tow — all 4WD.

At 9am, the day really began as we met at Roe’s Mt Madden, witnessing extensive panoramic views over the surrounding country. When Roe climbed and named Mt Madden, after Richard Madden the Colonial Secretary, he wasn’t encouraged by the vast sandy country with numerous lakes and thick scrub.

Note — one of the troopers that was with Roe was Private Richard Buck, he went on to travel with Explorer Robert Austin in 1852. We had the pleasure of his great great granddaughter, Michelle La Bianca, with us on the trip.

Next stop was Lilian Stokes Rock, named by Hann in June 1901, after Lilian Stokes of Sydney.

PHIL

Photo: T Penny

It's a low granite, which is almost flat. It covers a large area of the woodland and is easily accessible from the Lake King Norseman Road. We discovered numerous gnamma holes, many with stone lids; witnessed local ingenuity, where farmers built more powerful tractors from old trucks; and admired a restored Rabbit Proof Fence tank/rock well. Sadly a very hot bushfire, in 2021, had killed all the trees and shrubbery, some reshooting was taking place, but the area looked depressing. The fire was so intense we could see slivers of granite that exploded off the rock due to the excessive heat.

We stopped at an area marked off with stones, in a grave-like formation. There's no local knowledge about it being a grave, with many thinking that there isn’t a grave here at all. In fact, the location of these arranged stones is in a spot where it would be difficult to dig down more than 300mm.

MT MADDEN VIEWS

Photo: T Penny

LILIAN STOKES ROCK

Photo: T Penny

LIDDED GNAMMA HOLE AT LILIAN STOKES ROCK

YES, IT'S DEEP

LIDDED GNAMMA HOLE AT LILIAN STOKES ROCK

pools led to the discovery of numerous gnamma holes, most with stone covers. The stone covers, which are not often found, were usually put in place by Aboriginal people or early prospectors to reduce evaporation and prevent animals falling in and fouling the water. Prospectors were in the area as early as the 1890s and these would have been a welcome source of water. Some 200 metres westward of the site of ‘the grave’, in a thicket, are ten stones

laid out to form a ‘T’, measuring three-byfour-metres. The formation is manmade, nothing is known of this formation or what its purpose was.

The next stop was a restored rock well at the 144 mile mark on the RPF, this being 144 miles south of Burracoppin, the then headquarters of the Rabbit Department, (yes that was its name), who were in charge of maintaining the RPF.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE RPF

Surveyor Mason reports rabbits on the Nullarbor.

• Readers will be shocked to learn that feral cats were rounded up in Perth and Albany and released on the Nullarbor to help slow down the rabbit invasion. This of course, in part, led to the feral cat problem we have today. What were they thinking?

• Alf Canning commenced his RPF survey in 1901.

• Fence construction, south of Burracoppin, also began in 1901.

• Fence construction from the south coast to the Perth Kalgoorlie railway was completed in 1904.

• Canning completed the RPF survey to Cape Keraudren, in the Pilbara, in 1904.

• RPF construction, totalling 1,833km, was completed in1907.

There are two main ways to access the 144 Mile Tank. The first, only when dry, would be the easiest access — the turn off is 4.5km west of where the RPF crosses the Lake King Norseman Road. The coordinates for the turn off are 33 04 51S and 119 58 42E. We were unable to use this track as there was a pool of water across it that was so deep it would have had our 4WDs swimming. We were forced to come in from the north, off the Biddy Camm Road, turning south

ROCKS IN A GRAVE-LIKE FORMATION AT LILIAN STOKES

ROCKS IN A T FORMATION AT LILIAN STOKES

along the fence. We then took the track west just short of a T junction and gate through the RPF. Note this track is not part of the RPF track. Travelling along the track that officially follows the RPF is not permitted, and fines are severe. The coordinates for the 144 Mile Tank are 33 02 4.2S and 119 58 53E.

The refurbished tank, which I feel should be renamed Penny’s Tank, was refurbished by the Penny family and friends in September 2022. The workmanship demonstrated would have done any RPF boundary rider proud. Well done folks. The reason the Pennys chose to restore this tank was that their father’s farm was immediately west of the water reserve. Kevin and his brother Colin, recall spending lots of time exploring the area when they were kids.

SCAN THE QR CODE TO VIEW THE RPF TANK RESTORATION VIDEO

THE WELL BEFORE RESTORATION

Photo: T Penny

PUMPING OUT THE WELL

Photo: T Penny

THE RESTORED WELL

Photo: T Penny

OTHER THINGS TO SEE & DO IN THE DISTRICT

LAKE KING BUSH ENGINEERS TRACTOR MUSEUM

This museum houses a collection of homemade tractors, built by the local farmers in the 1970s and 80s. They took it upon themselves to build more powerful tractors, they were unable to get enough horsepower from those that were available for sale at the time.

THE HOLE IN THE WALL GOODS SHED

Originally, there wasn’t a hotel in the town, just a store with a gallon license, around which men would congregate and drink. The local policeman looked for a way to move the men on from congregating outside the store. He was aware that the local goods shed, rested on Commonwealth land, over which he had no jurisdiction. He suggested the drinkers should congregate there. The site becoming known as 'The Hole in the Wall', because there was no door. Many a farmer made numerous visits to town to see if any parts had arrived, despite most of the time none being on order.

LAKE KING IS A JUMPING OFF POINT TO:

• Frank Hann National Park

• Peak Charles National Park

• Dunns Track

• Pallerup and Newton Rocks

• Numerous rocks during wildflower season

BIG BERTHA

Tractors on the market were low on power. Wanting more power, farmers such as Alan Hewson, Trevor de Landgrafft, Glen Hewson, Ron Hewson and Dick McLean built their own big tractors, using bush ingenuity and selftaught skills.

I will focus on Big Bertha, so named because there wasn’t anything that size around. She was built by Alan Hewson with Hank Deters, in 1974, at a cost of $3,500.

Big Bertha featured, a cab from a Toyota ute, a fuel tank from a Volvo truck, a transfer case from a Mack truck and an engine and gear box from a Leyland 600 Hippo truck of late 1950s vintage.

Bertha used 18 litres of fuel per hour, newer ones were using 30 to 35 litres per hour. She’s a beast and wouldn’t look out of place in a Mad Max movie. There are many big tractors on display at the outdoor museum. Stop and have a look, but please don’t, as has happened, jump the fence and steal a radiator from one of the machines on display.

BIG BERTHA. Photo: Lee Marshall

The flat rock area where the 144 Mile Tank is located, spreads over a large area. Walk some 200m northwest and you find more gnamma holes with lids. One is rather ordinary looking, however its small entrance hides the fact that its cavernous underneath, like a giant bulb. When Colin Penny’s children were small, one of them got in through the neck of the gnamma hole and helped clean it out. When clean it was found to hold in excess of 300 litres of water. I’ve only ever seen one rockhole like this and that’s Giles Cleft Rockhole, west of the Carnarvon Range, in the Murchison. It’s also near the RPF. A walk to the nearby clump of trees will reveal several old eagles’ nests. These are worthwhile checking out. About 100m away, to the north, is a large bathtub like rockhole. When Canning came through here in 1901, he talked about cleaning out three gnamma holes that would hold about 900 litres of water. There’s lots of history here folks and lots of exploring on foot. I spent three nights at Lake King, staying in

A

the Lake King Tavern and Motel, they also operate a caravan park. The meals at the tavern are rippers. For example, I enjoyed barramundi and vege twice and grilled chicken with leek gravy another night. Folks, don’t race through Lake King, stop, poke around, and check out the various rocks. There is so much to see.

IS THIS CANNING'S TANK?

RARELY SIGHTED ECHIDNA

Photo: T Penny

An excerpt from Hema's WA State Map.

KEEPING A CHECK ON YOUR ENGINE

In this day and age every vehicle, especially those that wander far from the blacktop require an engine scan gauge, or an OBD2 gauge, call them what you will.

For my new Troopy I bought and fitted an UltraGauge (ultragaugeaustralia.com.au), and while the UltraGauge is generally a standard accessory for all sorts of vehicles, the Australian distributor actually pre-programmes some of the parameters of your unit to suit your vehicle. In other words, in my case, the unit immediately displayed Engine Temperature, RPM, battery volts, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT - a real bonus), along with engine load in percentage format. A small beating ‘heart’ in the top of the screen indicates that the gauge is monitoring everything correctly. How many engine and transmission functions the unit can display is generally up to what vehicle you have, the known codes it generates, and what you select to be shown. For example, while a 70 Series Cruiser shows the basic gauges such as RPM and vehicle speed (if selected) along with the Distance travelled since the trip was reset, Average fuel economy in L/100km (or MPG or others) and Run time in hours and minutes, along with Automatic fuel fill-up warning and Oil change and Service gauges, plus a lot more. However, it doesn’t show turbo boost pressure, transmission oil temp and others, while you will get a more comprehensive number of gauges if you have a 200 or 300 Series Cruiser. In other examples, Engine Oil temperature is supported by just a few vehicles makes (less than 1%) while Exhaust Pressure is much the same while this gauge is typically only found on diesel vehicles. The unit will also display all current Engine trouble codes generated but also codes

BY RON & VIV MOON

for potential or intermittent faults and proactively scans for trouble while you are driving and alerts if trouble is found. Check Engine Light on - the UltraGauge can turn off that annoying check engine light easily and quickly.

In use, the UltraGauge is simply plug and play. Once connected and the vehicle’s engine running, on the back of the unit you can find the ‘Menu’ button and the Up and Down buttons. You’ll probably need to read the Start-up guide at this point, the guide being web based and very comprehensive. The unit can display seven separate pages of gauges and each page can independently be configured to display 4, 6 or 8 gauges. You can select for the unit to automatically scroll through the different pages, or like me just have Page-1 displayed. You can also select alarms to be triggered for every gauge. Once you’ve used each of the buttons and selected a couple of different gauges you’ll find it’s pretty easy to navigate to select different pages and gauges and where you want a particular gauge to be displayed –say on either Page 1 or any other page.

Retail price is $259 and I’m impressed with this unit as it is easy to use and read, compact and has a few more useful gauges than other similar makes of comparable scan gauges.

A GOOD JOLT: NOCO GENIUS BOOST HD GB70 LITHIUM ION JUMP STARTER

BY RON & VIV MOON

A flat battery in your vehicle in the middle of nowhere can be a pain in the butt, if not a major issue. Carrying an emergency jump start battery pack can be an easy solution and we’ve been using a NOCO GB70 unit, which are available around the traps and should cover most people’s requirements.

Powered by a 56Wh lithium-ion battery the GB70 is rated at 12V and able to deliver up to a stated 2000 amps which is claimed to be good enough to start an 8-litre petrol engine or a 6-litre diesel donk. Weighing in at less than 2kg it measure just 220x152x70mm and includes a torch at one end and 12V power and USB power inlet and outlet slots at the other end.

Charging time for the inbuilt battery is 2-3 hours from a 12V supply while with the USB inlet it will take up to 28 hours and they reckon a fully charged battery can provide up to 40 jump starts. There’s in-built protection against reverse polarity, overcharging, overheating and from sparks. The 12V outlet ports can power a camp light or such, with the output socket rated at 15 amps, or you can charge your phone or GoPro camera or run other such devices via the USB connection.

On the main panel there is an on/off button, a series of LEDs to show the charge status of the internal battery, the switch for the light and a boost button and indicator light. This light illuminates when boost is active and when the unit is connected properly to a flat battery. However, if the flat battery has a voltage that is so low the GB70 can’t detect it, then the Boost Button can be pushed to activate the unit and allow charging to begin.

We’ve been using this unit on and off for the last year or so. Its latest role was to start a vehicle that hadn’t been started for some months and the battery was dead flat. The GB70 indicated that its internal battery was still fully charged but the 4.0-litre diesel donk took some effort to fire and I had to leave the jump start unit connected for a minute or so and then use the boost button to achieve a satisfactory result. I’d hazard a guess at such times and current draw, the unit would not do anywhere near 40 jump starts.

So, how good is the GB70 and are they worth the $340 or so you need to shell out for one?

First up the leads on this unit are pretty short which can make operating the GB70 a bit fiddly. Also, let me also say, I don’t believe these units are as good as having another vehicle on hand to jump start another vehicle with a flat battery. However, having a mate handy is not always possible so having one of these units is a good backstop that should get you out of trouble. Or, to be sure you have the grunt to turn that big V8 over you could opt for the gutsier GB150 power pack, but this will set you back around $550 or more!

Still, both units will also keep all those modern devices that we can’t seem to live or travel without, charged — but, I still carry a set of jumper leads!

LIPSTICK, SWAG AND SWEATRAG:

Memoirs of a Patrol Padre’s

Wife 1947-1955

by Beth Beckett (1998)

Forged in the flames of wartime Australia, Lipstick, Swag and Sweatrag are the recollections of an RAAF nurse who served at the Medical Receiving Station on the Coomalie Creek near Batchelor in the Northern Territory during WWII. While stationed there, Beth met and later married Ken Beckett, an RAAF Chaplain who, prior to enlistment, had been the Australian Inland Mission (AIM) Patrol Padre stationed at Tennant Creek, a role he resumed following the termination of hostilities.

BOOK REVIEW

by JOHN COLLINS

Beth shines a light on the challenges that many women faced when accompanying their husbands to remote outback locations. In the opening pages, Beth describes her first camping experience about 60 kilometres from Ceduna as a newlywed Patrol Padre’s wife. On their first trip travelling to the Kimberley via the Nullarbor Plains, the couple decided that the metal washing basin required too much of their precious water for cleaning the dinner plates and to wash themselves. The solution was truly innovative as … the original tin basin was too big … it was later replaced by a Ford hubcap. It’s size and shape were so ideal that half the quantity of water seemed like twice as much.

As a Patrol Padre’s wife, Beth overcome many challenges including travelling without the benefit of a fixed home base with their new-born son Colin until, at seven years old he was placed into a Victorian school. I also enjoyed the description of travelling from the Fitzroy River Valley “up over the range”

at a time that predated the now famous and much travelled adventure track, the Gibb River Road.

Readers who have already or intend to experience the adventures of the Gibb River Road may recognise some of the place names, but few will have experienced a similar journey travelling in an un-modified 2WD ute.

For the reader, Beth's account of her remarkable journey is plain and a practical record of names, dates, and places as she documents an Australian lifestyle that has largely vanished into the anonymity of history. Even in life or death situations, Beth’s descriptions are brief and factual, exemplified by telling Ken that should her self-diagnosis of a ruptured ectopic pregnancy be correct, she would not be alive the following morning.

Beth’s unique recollections are at times humorous representations of the bush atmospheres in immediate post-war Australian history. I reminded myself of how time changes attitudes and that applying contemporary moral judgment is inappropriate. After all, the story was written approximately 50 years after the fact, and this review approximately three quarters of a century after those events.

The manuscript isn’t of a modern-day professional author’s standard, and the photographs may not be sharp, among other imperfections, however, the book will interest travellers who want an enjoyable read that helps them better understand the country they are visiting.

I SOURCED SECOND-HAND MY SIGNED FIRST EDITION FOR APPROXIMATELY $25.00.

BOOK REVIEW

by JOHN COLLINS

OPERATION HURRICANE

The story of Britain’s first atomic test in Australia and the legacy that remains.

The first atomic cloud to billow over Australian territory was witnessed by the media waiting in a bush-camp on Mardi Station, in the Pilbara region of Western Australia. The West Australian from the media observation post established on Mount Potter told of the mushroom cloud: “at first pink, it quickly changed to mauve in the centre, with pink towards the outside, and brilliantly white edges. Within two minutes, the cloud, which was still like a giant cauliflower, was 10,000 feet or approximately three kilometres high.”

Operation Hurricane is the story of Britain’s first nuclear test prepared from the point of view of the men on the ground: soldiers, sailors, airmen, and civilians. The authors grandfather, Ronald Campbell Grace’s words from an old, typed military report begin: “…before the Montebello test (Operation Hurricane), I was the captain of one of two, DC3 aircraft detached from 36 Squadron 86 Wing stationed at Richmond, New South Wales for duty at Onslow, Western Australia.” While the atomic testing at Maralinga and the associated rocket testing at the Woomera Rocket Range are publicly better known than the Montebello Island tests, it was his late Grandfather’s service involvement that motivated the author to painstakingly piece together the events from declassified, government documents, and first-person accounts by surviving participants.

The first half of the book focuses on analysing official documents to describe the logistical preparation of Operation Harrigan,

including the selection and repair of the site in anticipation of the atomic bomb's arrival. The book is well written, and it will be used in a variety of ways to inform Australians about the 12 major nuclear weapons tests between 1952 and 1957 at the Montebello Islands, Emu Field, and Maralinga, and why opposition to the testing grew in the 1950s. The book has three major event themes:

1. Ongoing tensions between the British scientists and the commander of the sailors about who controlled proceedings with clashes over issues as important as appropriate dress standards for meals!

2. The condescending attitude of the British to the Australians and, especially at the political level, the indifferent response of Australian leaders. Grace reports: Possibly the worst example of British snobbery and the contempt in which they held Australians was when, ‘for security reasons’ “… the Task Force Commander refused to tell the Australian Admiral the target date or any other useful information about the trial. According to Admiral Torlesse’s paranoid logic, the Flag Officer commanding the Australian Fleet, the most senior sea-going officer in the RAN, the man in command of security patrols for the test itself, was a security risk simply because he was Australian.”

3. The third and most damning being that while the British scientists were provided with protective clothing, the same was not afforded to the soldiers, seamen and aircrew associated with the detonation and the collection of scientific material.

I also found additional knowledge about places already visited (Maralinga), country travelled (Len Beadell’s desert road network) and bucket-list travels. This paperback will interest travellers whose family member may have served in the military or where otherwise involved in these largely secret activities.

OPERATION HURRICANE BY PAUL GRACE

IS A PAPERBACK BOOK OF 368 PAGES

ISBN: 978,0733650543.

BUSH MECHANICS

with GEOFF LEWIS

BROKEN ARROW: SNAPPED AXLE IN THE GIBSON DESERT

We often use the term 'breakdown' lightly these days; a cup holder falls off, and we call it a breakdown.

Though some situations do test your mettle, call me a sad optimist, but if you can bring your car back to life, it isn't a breakdown, but an adventure with a great story to tell.

Afew years ago, I had an adventure that would leave many of these would-be adventure shows for dead — a big claim, I know. The pinnacle of this tale is of a bush mechanic who, after nearly three weeks, battled against dirty fuel, snapped U-bolts, a roof rack coming through the roof, broken brake lines, and overheating fuel pumps. Then, the unthinkable happened.

Finally achieving a good solid run of 100 kilometres without issues along the Canning Stock Route and getting closer to our wouldbe halfway point of Kunawarritji and looking forward to a nice ice cream.

Damon, my business partner and the DOP for Seriously Series (Director of Photography, as we were filming the adventure), climbed one of the many dunes and downshifted into first low to pull the Land Rover Series 3 over the top. This might seem like an unusual technique to some, but you need to do a series of quick downshifts in these vehicles with sand dunes, as with hills off-road, as they don’t have the

horsepower of more modern four-wheel drives (75hp from the factory, some have died over the years). As the Land Rover reached the top of the sand dune and after the downshift, there was an earth-shattering bang.

Damon recalled later that he saw mud, which was on the rim of the rear driver-side wheel, shoot out sideways as the mighty bang came from the rear, and the Land Rover then came to a halt.

I was in the support vehicle at the bottom of the hill, enjoying some aircon time as I had drunk some nasty well water that morning and was recovering. Having seen the Land Rover brought to a halt, I walked in the midday heat of mid-September, reaching close to mid-forties by now. As I got closer to Damon and the Land Rover, I could see stressed and concerned expressions (a

rarity; Damon doesn’t get phased by much). "What happened?" I asked. “I think we snapped an axle.”

Realising nothing was going to be achieved on top of the dune, we pushed by hand, and under the Land Rover's limited traction, we reversed it back down the dune to flatter ground and off the track.

Having erected the awning, we all sat in silence as we had our basic lunch, with the flies providing the only break in the silence of the Gibson Desert. Named after a gentleman from Ernest Giles's second expedition who got lost and died in the desert, never to be seen again, I reflected on the feeling of despair he must have felt towards the end.

However, there had to be a way. What do we do? We didn’t have spare axles (didn’t see a need; I haven’t snapped one in ten years),

OUT COMES THE AXLE SNAPPED AXLE

but we did have two differentials and two sets of axles, the front and rear. That’s it!

We decided on removing the rear prop shafts and the axles first. I removed the rear passenger-side axle; all looked well. Though when I removed the driver's side one, there was only one non-PG word that started with “F” that could describe what I saw. There had been a slight crack in the axle which had allowed the axle to not break but twist apart like toffee and snap.

This confirmed our diagnosis, and we could now get on with getting back on the road. With axles and prop shaft taken off, the rear diff was isolated. So, no metal fragments from the axle breaking would destroy the rear differential and the parts within. You might say, why didn’t we put the good axle back in? Well, it wouldn’t do anything, as the differentials in the Land Rover are open differentials, so the power through the differential goes to the wheel, or in this case, the axle with the least resistance. So, all this would do is spin the broken stub of the axle in the differential and provide no traction through the good axle to the wheel. Ultimately, this had converted the Land Rover to front-wheel-drive and would be running solely off the front diff, giving us only front-wheel drive, but would it hold up to the task? I found solace in remembering that we were not the first, and those two brothers, The Leyland Brothers who scaled

and crossed the very heart of the Simpson Desert back in 1966 in their Land Rover and broke half dozen differential and tackled dune after dune on only a lone front diff (film ‘Wheels Across the Wilderness”). Maybe, just maybe we might be in with a chance.

Our modification would hold, though the terrain was the concern. Georgia Bore was the end goal but, in crisis mode, our present mission was simply tackling one dune at a time. Fingers and toes were crossed, hoping the Land Rover Series 3 drive train would handle the punishment and no further major issues would occur. Each sand dune we clawed over was one dune closer to being able to close this nail-biting chapter of our adventure.

Scan the QR code to watch the adventure unfold as part of the multi-award-winning adventure documentary, Road to Ruin, by Seriously Series on Apple TV.

• Featuring on-road, o -road, and adventure maps to guide your adventure

• The most comprehensive collection of Australian maps of any GPS currently on the market

• 100,000+ Points of interest featuring 10,000+ campsites, caravan parks and free camping spots

• Plan and record your trip and share it with your friends and family

THE PEOPLE WE MEET

with MICHAEL COLLINS

Photos by BASE IMAGERY FOR TOURISM AUSTRALIA

ROBIN PENSINI — CHEELA PLAINS STATION STAY

Michael Collins catches up with Robin Pensini of Cheela Plains Station Stay for a behind-the-scenes take on life at the station.

MC: Can you tell us about Cheela Plains Station Stay and its location in Western Australia?

RP: Cheela Plains Station Stay is a ‘Pilbara Oasis’ located one kilometre off the bitumen road between Karijini National Park and Ningaloo Reef and is open to guests seasonally from April to October. We are a family owned and managed working cattle station nestled in the semi-arid, pastoral rangelands of the Pilbara in northern Western Australia. Visitors do not require 4X4 if only accessing the Station Stay.

MC: What do you personally love about station life, how did you come to own and operate a station stay?

RP: We started the station stay in order to diversify the business. We sincerely enjoy allowing guests to explore the station while creating lifelong memories of the vast Pilbara landscapes.

MC: What makes Cheela Plains Station Stay a unique destination for 4WD enthusiasts?

RP: Cheela Plains offers a unique 4X4 Self Drive Safari providing guests exclusive access to the private gorge while exploring the Beasley River Time Trail. The Time Trail showcases unique windows into the ancient geological past of the region. Geologists have followed the origins of Karijini National Park to the Beasley River Gorge. It is a truly spectacular adventure. Allow a minimum of three hours return for a short version.

MC: Tell us about the guest experience and the range of accommodation options available for visitors at Cheela Plains.

RP: Guests are often surprised when approaching the station stay to see our gardens and facilities. After travelling along the bitumen roads for hundreds of kilometres with no evidence of human habitation, the sight of a café, shady trees and beautifully manicured lawns is quite unexpected.

We offer powered and unpowered campsites situated around the Red Plains Campground located at the station, wilderness campsites located in the Beasley Gorge along the 4X4 Self Drive Safari, donga style rooms which utilise shared amenities, queen ensuite rooms, family ensuite rooms and a group campground with 17 station tents and camp kitchen.

MC: How would you describe the landscape and natural attractions surrounding the station stay?

RP: Cheela Plains Station Stay overlooks the productive Cheela Plain to the south. A short walk to the top of Sunset Lookout reveals the foothills of the spinifex-covered Hamersley ranges to the north. It’s the meeting of two very different land systems.

MC: Can you share any tips or advice for 4W drivers planning a visit to Cheela Plains Station Stay, especially in terms of vehicle preparation and safety?

RP: Guests staying at the station stay are required to obtain a permit and key from reception to access the 4X4 tracks. The tracks are in good condition with the need to engage 4X4 only required in the loose river shingle or provided we have experienced good rainfall, to cross through water standing on the roads. Guests are asked to stick to designated tracks on the map provided.

MC: Are there any guided 4WD tours or activities offered for those who may be new to off-road driving?

RP: Guests will need to arrive in their own 4X4 vehicle if they wish to take the station tracks. The station stay facilities are easily accessible by two-wheel drive vehicle if electing not to go for a drive on a station track.

MC: What facilities and amenities can guests expect during their stay at Cheela Plains?

RP: The Red Plains Campground offers a camp kitchen, hot showers, toilets and washing machines. The Red Plains Café is open from 7.30am to 2.30pm and offers sweet and savoury pastries, cakes, toasties, wraps, sandwiches, barista coffee, pots of tea and cool drinks. The restaurant is open Thursday to Tuesday serving a two-course contemporary dinner. Wednesday night offers campfire burgers around the iconic fire pit. Reservations are essential.

MC: Tell us about the local wildlife and birdwatching opportunities that guests can enjoy.

RP: Be on the lookout for our one and half metre long Pilbara Sand Monitors lurking around the campground. They are harmless but their size can cause quite a fright! An abundance of birds can also be seen around the campground. Native Pilbara birdlife is evident as guests explore the 4X4 Self Drive Safari, particularly around the water holes.

Cattle may also be seen along the station track. Kangaroo and dingo sightings are uncommon.

MC: How does Cheela Plains Station Stay contribute to the conservation and preservation of the surrounding environment?

RP: We utilise the intense Pilbara sunlight to produce power through a hybrid solar/ diesel power system, collect containers for the Containers for Change program, practice rest-based grazing on the station.

MC: Are there any attractions or landmarks that you recommend to visitors?

RP: Karijini National Park and Ningaloo Reef are must see locations.

MC: What is the best time of year to visit Cheela Plains Station Stay for a 4WD adventure?

RP: The best time to visit Cheela Plains is between April and October. The 2024 opening dates are 29th March (opening early for Easter) to 13th October.

MC: Lastly, what do you hope guests take away from their experience at the station?

RP: We hope guests will enjoy our hospitality and the privilege to explore and discover the natural beauty of our landscapes.

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

with PHIL BIANCHI

MORE LONELY GRAVES

Continuing from the article I wrote in the Autumn 2023 magazine, here are the stories of more souls that have left their bones in Western Australia’s vast outback and deserts. While these graves may be in remote areas, with only a wooden cross or a cross marked out on the ground with rocks to show the burial; and only a few people visiting them, they are not forgotten.

PHILIP MACK

Mack died on 14 July 1894 aged 31 years, and is buried at Deadmans Soak at 19 Mile Rocks, some 31km ENE of Goongarrie, which at that time was known as the 90 Mile. Mack was camped at these rocks with fellow prospector Sunshine Fowler. While making a damper, he was allegedly attacked by an Aboriginal man named Wall-eye Joe, using a small axe. Sunshine, when he rushed to assist, was also attacked by Wall-eye Joe, with a blow nearly severing his fingers. Wall-eye Joe then ran to Mack’s tent, looted it, and laden with stores, he and his two women ran off into the bush.

Another prospecting group camped nearby heard the commotion and rushed to assist, but it was too late for Mack. Mack's wounds were so severe, he didn’t recover and died.

There seems to be confusion over his actual date of death with some saying 14 July 1894 and other reports saying 17 July 1894. Mack was buried by his prospector, they put a bush rail fence around his grave and also put his name, age, and the date of his death on a tin sign that was made using a nail as a punch. It read.

‘P MACK, AGED 31.

KILLED BY BLACKS 14/7/94’.

A manhunt, using trackers, set about chasing the perpetrator, who was caught and shot by a tracker, SE of Wallaby Rocks.

On 23 November 1991, the Eastern Goldfields Historical Society removed the tin sign for safekeeping and replaced it with a replica. However, an error was made with 14/7/96 being inscribed instead of 14/7/94.

Mack’s grave is located at Latitude 29 57 05S and Longitude 121 25 53E. Take the turn-off from the Goldfields Highway and head east on Pianto Road. At 29 55 17S and 121 256 26E, turn off southward to 19 Mile Rocks.

BOB (ROBERT) TRUE

True died of heart failure on 29 July 1906, aged 43 years, at Gregory Hills on Lake Wells Station, 177km northeast of Laverton.

True, suffering from heart disease, had for some days before his death been unable to work on the gold reef he found. He had been seen that morning holding his side and gasping for breath. When he didn’t return to camp that evening, a search using trackers soon found his body. One of them called out, "Charlie! Charlie! Quick feller. Bob tumbledown. Poor old bastard."

His death was reported to the police at Laverton, with the acting coroner, H M McKenzie, considering an inquest unnecessary, giving a certificate for burial. True’s remains were interred on Whitfords Lease the following day.

The grave was on the ridge near where he died. His mates gave him a Freemason’s service, despite Bob not being a Freemason. Although they didn’t have a bible for formal proceedings, the service didn’t lack dignity.

They then filled the grave with granite boulders and placed a slab of granite with ‘Bob True’ inscribed on the granite. They also prepared a report to send to the police at Laverton. In addition, a collection was taken up and an order was placed for a marble headstone to be made in Perth. When the headstone arrived, it was found to be inscribed Bob Irve and not Bob True, the handwriting had been misread. Despite the error the marble headstone was placed on True’s grave, The granite with the correct information is in place at the foot of the grave.

True’s grave is two kilometres east of Lake Violet Homestead at 27 27 25S and 123 01 53E. Note, permission to visit this grave must be arranged beforehand, because the gravesite is near cattle yards and your visit may interfere with station work and cattle endeavouring to drink at nearby windmills.

GRAVE OF UNKNOWN PROSPECTOR

Near Ives Rock, which is 14km NNE of Jaurdi Station is the lone grave of an unknown prospector. Albert Ives and his son Leonard were prospecting the area in 1910 when they discovered the body and buried it.

The unnamed grave is located at 30 42 35S and 120 04 40E. The name Ives Rock is only of recent origin, previously the area was known as Deadmans Soak or Wallangie Soak. Alfred Ives was a successful

WRONG NAME NOT ROBERT IRVE BUT ROBERT TRUE

prospector and Justice of the Peace. In 1919 he made a significant gold discovery south of Kalgoorlie, which was named Saint Ives after him.

Yvonne and Kevin Coate, authors of the book Lonely Graves of WA, conducted extensive research but they were unable to prove who was buried there.

Nearby is Wallangie Soak, an important water source for prospectors and teamsters in days gone by. Please ensure the lid is securely fastened so animals don’t fall in and foul the water.

WELL 37 ON THE CANNING STOCK ROUTE (THE HAUNTED WELL)

Alf Canning recorded the name as Libral, but the correct spelling is Lipuru. It is also known as the haunted well because of the four graves there. Nowadays there isn’t much left of the well, it's some two metres deep. The area around the well is very dusty when dry but would be extremely muddy when wet. At this well are the graves of Thomson, Shoesmith, Chinaman and McLernon.

Deaths of Thomson, Shoesmith and Chinaman

The first mob of cattle to go down the CSR was, in 1911, under the charge of three drovers: James C Thomson and George Shoesmith of European descent, and the Aboriginal man known as ‘Chinaman’. Tom Cole followed soon after, he was in charge of the second mob.

Cole’s party arrived at Well 37 on 30 June 1911. He had found Thomson’s diary ten miles north of Well 37, although pages were missing, it revealed what had happened in the lead-up to the deaths. Cole noticed that entries ceased on 24 April, and it was presumed that was the night they were killed.

They found three partly buried bodies, the right side of Thomson’s and Shoesmith’s head had been bashed in, presumably by a club. The bodies were reburied, and a fence was erected around each of the graves. Cole and his party reported the killings to Constable S E Perks at the Wiluna Police Station. He, in turn, reported the deaths to authorities in Perth.

The tragedy was reported in newspapers with headlines such as, ‘Shoesmith’s body completely severed’, ‘Kindness repaid by Treachery’, ‘Two Drovers and Native murdered by Aboriginals’, and ‘Gruesome butchery by Natives’.

Thomson, Shoesmith and Chinaman’s graves lie approximately 100m NNE of Well

GRAVE OF UNKNOWN PIONEER AT IVES ROCK

WALLANGIE SOAK

37. They have timber railings, but these were in poor condition a few years ago. The government’s response to the deaths of Thomson, Shoesmith and Chinaman was to send a punitive expedition, with Police Sergeant Richard H Pilmer in charge.

Pilmer’s party of nine men left Wiluna on 30 September 1911. They arrived at Well 37

to find carcasses of cattle, a horse and the remains of the men. The three bodies were exhumed, examined and reburied. Thomson and Shoesmith were buried side by side and a two-rail fence and headboards were erected. Chinaman was buried, nearby, in a separate grave. Fences were erected around each grave.

Pilmer’s party then made their way northward; spelling for a few days at Well 42. At around 11am on 16 November, they spotted a group of some 25 Aboriginal warriors coming over a ridge. They charged, and Pilmer’s men opened fire, seven Aboriginal men died and three were wounded, though escaped. Upon reaching Halls Creek on 8 December 1911, Pilmer reported, via telegraph, ‘We dispersed 14 natives

GRAVE OF THOMSON AND SHOESMITH AT CSR WELL 37

DEATH OF THOMSON, CHINAMAN AND SHOESMITH AT CSR WELL 37

(killed) in the vicinity of the murders, all of whom were alleged to have been implicated in the tragedy.’

Although the total of 14 doesn’t tally with his later official report that said seven Aboriginal men were killed and three were wounded; it is certain that many Aboriginal people died because of this punitive expedition.

Death of John (Jock) McLernon

McLernon was a general hand on the 1922 Locke Oil Expedition party, under the leadership of Leo Jones. They left Wiluna on 27 May 1922 and made their way northward along the CSR.

On the night of 3 September 1922, while camped some 55km south of the well, they were allegedly attacked by Aboriginal people, who rushed the camp and tried to club the members of the party with waddies. As it happened, they were sleeping under a fly and the attackers could not use their waddies freely, but one of the men, McLernon, was killed and Jones was injured in the arm and head.

McLernon's body was carried back to the well for burial. His grave is approximately 80m westward of Well 37.

GRAVE MARKER OF MCLERNON AT CSR WELL 37

GRAVE OF CHINAMAN AT CSR WELL 37

with (TRUTHFUL) PHIL BIANCHI

CORRECT PREP PAYS OFF

Easter is coming up; you're taking a week off and you’ve decided to do an extended 4WD trip.

The day of departure is getting closer and closer. Have you got everything; the food, clothing, maps, guides, and camping gear? Most importantly, have you had the vehicle and caravan or trailer, if taking one, serviced? And is it up to take you on the road trip?

Over the years I have developed a checklist of things to do and equipment, tools, camping gear, food etc to take with me. Having such a list ensures, hopefully, I don’t forget something critical like on one occasion I forgot my air mattress. I certainly didn’t enjoy sleeping on the ground early explorer style, and I’ve never forgotten it since.

Depending on the distance you intend to travel, your vehicle may need an oil change and lube, including checking oils in the

diffs, gearbox and transfer case. Also check the air filter, radiator, tyres, alternator and batteries.

Checking your radiator doesn’t just mean unscrewing the cap and looking to see if it’s full. Go to a reputable radiator service centre and ask them to pressure test your radiator. The test is usually free and will quickly uncover any potential disasters like leaks or weaknesses in hoses.

It’s easier to remedy such problems back in town than be stuck by the side of the road, usually in searing heat, waiting for the engine to cool down so you can get your hand in there and do the repair. Even then if you haven’t got the required spare, you’re in real trouble; your holiday plans are starting to go west and the ‘boss’ is not amused and starting to get agitated.

When was the last time you checked your tyres, no not just the air pressure but had a good look all around them for wear problems, splits, or cracks that may cause trouble under a load or stress due to the heat build-up caused by long-distance travel. I strongly recommend you replace any suspect tyres before you leave. If you’re unsure about your tyres go to a tyre dealer and have them looked over. Tyre prices are cheaper, and choices are far greater back in town than out in remote areas.

If you have a non-sealed vehicle battery when was the last time you checked your fluid levels? Many 4W drivers have dual battery systems nowadays so they can run a 12-volt fridge etc to make life more comfortable. Battery failure can result in spoilt food, and who likes drinking hot shandies?

Go to any battery centre or auto electrician and ask for a battery load test. This test will quickly reveal any potential battery faults; such tests are usually free. Also, have your alternator and starter motor checked, failure of these items can cause major problems. It’s no fun having to continually start your vehicle using jumper leads. You do pack a set of jumper leads, don’t you?

Don’t just hitch up your trailer that’s only been used doing trips to the tip. How many times have you seen a trailer parked by the side of the road with the wheel missing and the driver gone to get parts? The usual cause is poor maintenance and preparation. If you are taking a trailer, make sure it’s up to the job and that it won’t fall to bits or suffer failure. The suspension is in good order, and the wiring isn’t faulty. Regarding wheel bearings, have them checked at home and replace them, they aren’t expensive.

I suggest you carry spare bearings and cups for your trailer, and if you don’t know, learning to change a wheel bearing is a worthwhile skill to attain.

Dirty air cleaners, cause a loss of power, poor fuel consumption and accelerate engine wear. A quick check and clean, will on most occasions, be all you need to do.

Fan belts and radiator hoses are another area often overlooked. If it’s been a while since you have changed them, consider replacing them as preventative maintenance and take your old ones with you as a backup.

Fuel filters are another area of concern. As a preventative measure, it’s best to make sure you have fitted a new one or at least carry a spare in case of purchasing dirty fuel.

An often-overlooked item is the vehicle air conditioner, when was the last time it was checked?

Resist the temptation to take everything including the kitchen sink with you on your trip. Overweight vehicles, roof racks and trailers usually succumb to faults and breakdowns. Just because there is room on the roof rack, doesn’t mean you can take more gear. Vehicle roofs have weight limits, and often only around 150 kg.

Proper vehicle servicing is commonsense and keeping a regular vehicle maintenance schedule will not only give you peace of mind but will save you dollars in the long run. After all you have spent a large sum of money buying your vehicle why not service it properly? I’m constantly amazed by people scrimping on a few hundred dollars on maintenance by not replacing items such as filters, hoses or using quality oils etc, yet they have a relatively new vehicle.

WA is a great place; you want to enjoy your holiday. Don’t waste part of it stranded waiting for parts or repairs to be carried out. With good planning and preparation, it will be a trip you’ll remember for the right reasons.

with CAROL REDFORD and DONNA VANZETTI Astrotourism WA and Star Tracks Astro Events

EXPLORING OUR AMAZING NIGHTSCAPES

While out on your 4WD adventures, remember to not only enjoy the daytime landscapes but the evening nightscapes too, as the next few months are full of cosmic treats.

This year the March equinox fell on 20 March. Also known as the autumnal equinox, it marks the transition from summer to autumn in the southern hemisphere and has almost the equal number of hours of daylight as darkness!

Equinoxes happen twice a year and on the dates of the equinox, the Sun is exactly above the Earth’s equator, causing the equal length of night and day.

Did you know the equinox is central to the changing date of Easter each year? The date of Easter changes because it is based on the lunar calendar. Easter falls on the first Sunday following the first full moon after the

March equinox, ensuring it occurs between 22 March and 25 April. This year the full moon falls on Tuesday, 25 March, after the equinox, therefore Easter Sunday is on 31 March.

Early April is the final chance to spot Jupiter before we lose it from our skies. As a special treat, the gas giant is joined by the lovely thin slither of the Moon over two nights.

WHEN AND WHERE TO LOOK

On 11–12 April, 40 minutes after sunset, look low on the north-western horizon.

In early May we have a ‘Parade of Planets’, joined by the Moon! Saturn, Mars, and Mercury get up close and personal with our planet’s only natural satellite. From 4–6 May, the Moon passes closely by each planet.

WHEN AND WHERE TO LOOK

From 2.30am on 4 May, 3.45am on 5 May and 5.15am on 6 May. Look to the eastern horizon.

To see a Sky View map of this special line-up, visit astrotourismwa.com.au/may-planets

Western Australia is a super place to get out and explore, and we are fast becoming the world’s ‘astro hotspot’, with our dark, pristine night skies. While on your fun treks, make the most of this spectacular asset.

INFORMATION BAY

Find more stargazing tips and country events at: astrotourismwa.com.au

If you’re a budding “astro-enthusiast”, check out Stargazers Club WA’s telescope classes and astronomy events for beginners at: stargazersclubwa.com.au

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AN INSPIRATIONAL SELF-DRIVE ADVENTURE IN WA’S GOLDFIELDS

Explore woodlands and the goldrush past on the Golden Quest Discovery Trail.

A guidebook is available from Visitor Centres along the trail and select bookstores, with audio available to download via the website.

Complementing the guidebook and audio is a free companion app that provides additional interpretive and regional information.

with BOB COOPER

THE FASCINATING BANKSIA TREE

It's Bob Cooper, your go-to Outback Survival expert, back with another interesting topic to share. This quarter, let's dive into the marvellous world of the banksia tree.

Now, you might be wondering why I'm so thrilled about this tree. Well, let me tell you, the banksia is not just any ordinary plant. It's a true survivor in our tough outback environment, and there's so much we can learn from its incredible adaptability. Did you know that there are 173 species of banksia in Australia? They're truly unique to our beautiful country. These trees were even named after Sir Joseph Banks, the first European to collect samples of these plants back in 1770.

But here's the real kicker — the banksia's superpower lies in its ability to withstand bushfires. In the outback, fires are a natural occurrence, and most plants struggle to survive the intense heat. However, our resilient banksia has developed a special adaptation called "serotiny".

When a fire rages through the land, the heat triggers the banksia cones to open and release their seeds, often called "ash furries". These seeds have a protective outer layer that helps them survive the scorching heat. And guess what happens next? As soon as the fire subsides and the soil cools down, the banksias emerge from the ashes, already ahead of their competition.

Speaking of survival tips, did you know that banksia seed cones can be great fire sticks? They're not meant for starting fires, but they're perfect for fire transport. Simply place a red-hot coal in the cone's mouth, use the branch as a handle, and swing the cone as you walk. This way, the coals stay active for hours until you need to start a fire in another location. And those brown flower down even work as excellent fire starters, even after it's rained!

Now, let's not forget the wonderful wildlife the banksia attracts. Its flowers are filled with sweet nectar, drawing a wide range of birds, insects, and mammals. Every time I venture into the bush, I'm mesmerized by the beautiful bird species flocking to these flowers. It truly is a magical sight.

Oh, and did you know that you can extract the nectar by dipping the flowers into water? It creates a nourishing drink that I even like to add to my tea. The secret is to look for the ripe ones, the secret trick is insects are attracted to the flower when ripe. They ooze nectar when under sunlight, almost like

a spider web flowing to the ground. It's a sight to behold!

So, why am I sharing all this with you?

Because we can learn a valuable lesson from the banksia. Life can be tough, and we all face our fair share of metaphorical fires. But just like this remarkable tree, we have the strength to rise from the ashes, adapt, and overcome even the harshest circumstances.

So, the next time you find yourself facing a challenge, remember the Banksia's resilience. Take a deep breath, tap into your inner strength, and remind yourself that you're capable of conquering whatever comes your way. Stay strong, my friends! And don't forget to stay tuned for more survival tips and fascinating titbits from the outback. Keep exploring, keep learning, and keep embracing the spirit of the wild!

With over 40 years experience teaching Outback Survival, Bob Cooper has produced what he calls the ‘Trilogy for Survival’. Along with enough water, Bob believes every time you go bush, no matter what form of transport, these three items should accompany you in case something doesn’t go to plan and you’re in an emergency situation – anywhere.

A quality emergency/survival kit.

Three stretch elastic bandages. Multiple uses and first aid.

Quality survival blanket. This one spells HELP.

Check out these items and more at www.bobcoopersurvival.com

Also available

Playing cards with a survival hint on each card. $10.00

Bob’s best selling book

$89.95

$29.95

$19.99

$24.95

the success rate is certainly not as high as for the famed hotspots further north, but with sustained effort and knowledge of the best pre conditions, many have been surprised by what fish are around. Spotting feeding tuna or mackerel in our waters while out wide on the boat and knowing the best or most effective ways of bringing one or two home, are two very different things. The right technique and know-how is essential. Certainly, the best time of year is midsummer through to the end of autumn (or January through to April). With that in mind, keeping your ear to the ground or researching the likely fishing reports and sites for mention of mackerel or tuna being caught off the metro coast is an indicator that the water temperatures and Leeuwin current are favourable. From there, it’s time to make a plan of attack around the weather, the tides and most favourable feeding periods, based on the bible for all good anglers — the Solunar tables. If it all looks good, the last part of the

battle plan is to get geared up with the right tackle and outfits that work for this type of sportfishing.

In my experience, the most likely of these pelagic speedsters you’ll come across in our local waters are going to be spanish and shark mackerel, yellowfin tuna (including some over 20 kilos plus), striped or skipjack tuna and small migrating southern bluefin tuna. I’ve also heard of the odd wahoo and even northern bluefin tuna being caught, but they are less common.

Whatever the case in point, these surface speedsters can be caught in a number of ways but the most popular and perhaps most efficient is by trolling lures. Trolling artificial lures enables large areas likely to hold these targets to be covered with the most appropriate artificial imitation of a swimming baitfish. These days, there’s no end to the variety of lures on offer but there are definitely those that work superbly at this task and those that don’t (more on that later).

A LONGTAIL (OR NORTHERN BLUEFIN) TUNA FROM OUR WEST COAST

WHO WOULDN’T WANT TO CATCH SPANISH MACKEREL OF THESE DIMENSIONS CLOSE TO HOME?

HARD BODIED MINNOW LURES ARE VERY EFFECTIVE PELAGIC TROLLERS

At slower speeds and with the right rigging skills, it’s even possible to troll natural baits such as garfish or mullet and when the pelagics are definitely there and in a confined spot, this too can be deadly. Rigging baits in this way is something of an art form to get right so opting for simple hard body or skirted lures is much easier.

For the mackerel trolled sub surface, hard body “minnow” styles are definitely number one. Minnow lures generally come in bibbed and bibless models and, depending on the type, will swim at varying depths with an enticing wiggling or swaying action that imitates a baitfish in the water. Typically, most are now injection-molded plastic and fitted with a couple of treble hooks. Those mackerel have razor sharp teeth and this means a short length of wire trace is necessary to avoid being bitten off.

Rather than go to great lengths on the merits, or otherwise, of different trolling minnow style hard body lures, I would simply suggest some that are proven, reliable, mackerel lures for me. Halco’s Laser Pro 190 series in chrome pink, stripey, white redhead or pilchard colour patterns have caught literally hundreds of different mackerel for me over decades. Along the metro and mid-west coast, all four of these patterns work well, no doubt along with the King Brown and Bonito patterns which some

SKIRTED LURES ARE DEADLY ON TUNA. THIS ONE ALSO APPEALED TO WAHOO THAT SADLY WAS LOST JUST AT THE BOAT.

others swear by. Rapala also make effective bibbed trollers and the X Rap Magnum series in sizes 15 and 20 are excellent, robust hard body minnows that dive deep and have a very enticing swimming action. Nomad’s DTX 110 and 125 deep divers are another option amongst the myriad to choose from. But there are plenty of bibless swimming minnows that are also very effective, particularly because they can be trolled at faster speeds. These styles will also attract mackerel as well as various tuna species. A few Halco Max 110 and 130 sized hard body bibless lures are definitely worth a spot in the tackle bag, especially if tuna can be spotted feeding in your trolling grounds. Another deadly alternative for tuna is hyperlon or resin head, skirted lures. They can be trolled fast and often leave a streaky bubble trail that just adds to the attraction for fast chasing tuna. Pakula Mini Sprockets, Richter Dorados and some of the Williamson skirted lures will do the trick. These medium sized skirts can also be swapped out for small chrome bullet head skirted lures that may only be eight to 10cm long but extremely effective if the tuna is feeding on very small baitfish.

The right outfit for trolling up mackerel or tuna doesn’t have to be highly specialised but does need to be in good condition with some basic elements. A medium strength

ROTTNEST AND THE BACK OF PERTH’S REEF LINES SUCH AS THREE MILE REEF OFTEN TURN UP SHARK MACKEREL ON LURES

15kg overhead boat rod, matched to a medium sized overhead reel loaded with at least 300m of 15 or 30kg monofilament or braid line will do the job, provided the drag is very smooth. A three to four metre length of heavier leader down a strong clip swivel at the lure end and you’re set.

Trolling just two lines is often the simplest, hassle-free set up but three can be manageable provided the lure placement is well staggered. One of the lures needs to be set fairly short in the white water propwash around 15m back with the other around double that and perhaps a long “shotgun” even further back again.

Speed is often dependent on the sea

conditions and the lure type. Babied minnows are often best at around six to eight knots while bibbies and skirts can be dragged at double that speed. Importantly the drag needs to be set to suit — with enough drag pressure to set the hook and allow the fish to hit hard and run.

Finding the fish is not always easy but there are things to look out for. Pelagic species generally feed at or near the surface and as such they will congregate and hunt where the schools of baitfish gather. Often this can be in relatively featureless open water but more typically its where there are water depth changes such as the back of reef lines or drop offs, especially for mackerel. Tuna are more open ocean travellers. Finding bait schools will often be a strong starting point.

PELAGIC FISH

Inhabit the water column (not near the bottom or the shore) of coasts, open oceans, and lakes. Oceanic pelagic fish, such as tuna, have agile bodies made for long distance migration. Many oceanic pelagic fish travel in schools while some are solitary that drift with ocean currents.

DEMERSAL FISH

Are those which live on, or near to the bottom of the ocean or lakes. This area of the water is called the Demersal Zone and is the area in which demersal fish both live and feed. Demersal fish may also be known as 'bottom feeders' as they feed from the bottom of the ocean or lake.

Don’t neglect the tell-tale signs of feeding fish. Gulls and terns hovering over fish activity and commotion on the surface is a sure indicator. Spotting the fish themselves as they herd and feed on bait, close to the surface is often possible but do not drive straight through them or they will disperse. On calmer days its not difficult to spot this feeding action and dropping the lures in to troll around the wide perimeter of this feeding frenzy will usually bring results. Bigger Spanish mackerel love to spear upwards through bait schools when they hunt, so don’t be surprised if you spot one of these silver missiles erupting from the surface — it’s a sight that quickly confirms the fish are there and gets anglers frantically rushing around the boat to set the trolling lines out.

Landing smaller pelagics is not that difficult because they tire quickly but anything bigger than a 10kg mackerel or tuna will certainly run some distance and need a little patience and care, particularly when close to the boat, in the closing stages. Sadly, in years gone by anglers could rely

on taking plenty of time for the fish to be completely spent before gaffing and lifting them into the boat or releasing the fish. Although not as bad off Rottnest and the metro coast, sharks now make life very difficult. Further up the coast and especially at favoured fishing locations further north, landing a mackerel or tuna can be virtually impossible at times. Sharks in these areas are so conditioned for an easy meal they simply sit in wait until a hooked fish presents such an easy target to chase down.

Catching these great sports fish can be exhilarating and great fishing but in addition fresh mackerel fillets on the barbecue or fresh tuna sashimi make the exercise and effort even more worthwhile. Finding success with these pelagics closer to home is not always easy but many anglers ignore the possibility completely, thinking warmer waters in the north are the only place to try trolling lures. The reality is that there’s more incentive these days to put in the time at the right spots here. It’s great when that perseverance and patience is rewarded with great fish.

www.uppergascoyne.wa.gov.au

facebook.com/visituppergascoyne

www.instagram.com/shireofuppergascoyne

GEAR TO GO CAMPING

All featured products available from Go Camping & Overlanding 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta. Visit campingoverlanding.com.au

STOV BBQ

The STOV BBQ is an extremely portable gas barbecue that can be assembled in seconds without the need for tools while delivering the performance of a backyard barbecue. With its flatpack design and weight of only 3.6kg, it is the ideal barbecue to grill anything from your classic burger when out bush and a few sausages at a picnic by the beach. The 304 Stainless Steel Grill plate measures 31.5cm x 21cm so enough for about four decent steaks. It uses the same type of gas as you would find on a backpacking stove like a JetBoil.

The kicker though, for us, is this, you can remove the gas burner and use it with charcoal, heat beads or some kindling for an open flame cooking experience.

We’ve been using one for a few months and are really happy with how it cleans up too! After a few uses, using some hot soapy water and a good scrub with a Steelo and the thing looks new again.

The price is $319 and at the time of writing, Go Camping & Overlanding in Balcatta is offering a free set of the STOV Tongs with every STOV BBQ purchased.

SURVIVAL FIRST AID REMOTE MODULE

The new Remote & Outdoor Module from SURVIVAL First Aid is a great way of boosting the capabilities of your existing First Aid Kit. This streamlined-yet-jam-packed “module” can be easily clipped on to your current kit and includes a whole host of extra first aid essentials, including two of the clever SMART bandages, 10 x hydrogel sachets which is a cooling gel to quickly treat burns, an emergency blanket and burn dressing and also includes other must-have items to keep you safe and sound, such as a mini torch, emergency whistle and daylight signal mirror.

$84.95 from Go Camping & Overlanding in Erindale Road Balcatta. western4wdriver.com.au

DONKEY LONG TONG

Go on, say this one out loud after a few drinks!! Yep, it’s the Donkey Long Tongs, a truly impressive set of tongs measuring 80cm in length.

Crafted from 304 food-grade stainless steel, this tong is built to last through all conditions, demonstrating both durability and resistance to rust. It’s ideal for safely handling big logs, mucking around with your campfire, and ensuring comfort and safety during use. They, of course, have the obligatory bottle opener in the handle too.

The Donkey Long Tongs are at the time of writing, $129 from Go Camping & Overlanding.

The Long Tongs a little large for you to handle? Well rejoice — new to market also this month is the Donkey Tongs, at less than 70cm, these may fit into your camping set up a little easier. Also available through Go Camping & Overlanding in Balcatta.

CAMELBAK CAN COOLER

Sick and tired of looking like all your mates around the campsite with your same old, boring looking can cooler from that brand that is abominable like a snowman? Yawn. Good news, Camelbak, the original and best in hydration, have added some new colours to their can cooler collection.

It “can” fit a wide variety of 375ml can and bottle sizes within its double-walled, vacuum insulated stainless steel construction that keeps beverages cool until the very last drop — whatever the adventure.

Drop into Go Camping & Overlanding at 58 Erindale Road, Balcatta to check out the collection and other great items from the Camelbak drinkware collection.

FLATBREADS A TUCKERBOX STAPLE

Flatbreads are one of the most popular alternatives to sliced bread available today. They come in various shapes, sizes, and flavours, with some even featuring added seeds and whole grains.

For many, the idea of making a whole loaf of bread can seem daunting, even for experienced cooks. The beauty of flatbreads is their forgiving nature; they don’t require a camp oven, and importantly, they don’t need an open fire for cooking, so can be made any time of year.

These versatile morsels can be used in various ways. Filled with your favourite cold meats and salad ingredients, they make great wraps for lunch. They offer a delicious alternative to the classic bacon and egg sandwich for breakfast, can be filled with

spicy taco ingredients like chili meat sauce, cheese, tomato, lettuce, and salsa for a tasty burrito, or turned into a quick ham, cheese, and tomato toastie for an afternoon snack.

Flatbreads can also substitute pasta sheets in a rich, tomatoey lasagne, serve as thin, crispy bases for quick pizzas, and can even be dried out over low heat to make pita chips for hummus or your favourite dip.

Overall, they are an incredibly versatile addition to the tucker box. Their alreadyflat nature means they won’t get squashed, they take up very little space, and don’t require any special conditions to endure the rigors of camping. But the best thing about them is how easy they are to make yourself, requiring little to no special equipment. Luckily, I’m going to share just how simple they are to make, so let's get started.

FLATBREADS

You will need:

1 sachet of Laucke bread mix and the required amount of yeast (I buy a box that has 4 sachets per box — found in the flour section of any supermarket. Any mix type will do.)

Olive oil for kneading and preventing dough sticking

1 large mixing bowl

1 large mixing spoon

1 fry pan (I use my cast iron one)

1 large food grade plastic bag or lidded container

A heat source that can be either a portable gas stove, a caravan cook top or your cook top in the home kitchen.

Take your bread mix and pour the contents of the sachet into a large mixing bowl. Carefully read the instructions on the bread mix box, specifically the section labelled 'handmade bread'. This will provide you with the correct quantities of yeast (included with the bread mix) and water needed to create the dough. Incorporate all ingredients, including any seeds, extra grains, or flavourings you wish to add.

Mix the yeast with the required amount of water and let it stand for a minute or two. Then, add it to the dry ingredients and stir using a large spoon or knife until the dough is somewhat shaggy but thoroughly combined.

Transfer the dough onto an oiled work surface and knead by hand for approximately five minutes. Lightly oil the bowl, return the dough to it, then cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap. Set aside for at least half an hour to let the dough rise and relax.

About five minutes before you begin making your flatbreads, preheat your cast iron

CLEWED UP

with JO CLEWS

skillet, barbecue hotplate, or frying pan on low heat, ensuring it's sufficiently hot for quick cooking.

When the dough is soft and puffy, tear off pieces slightly larger than a golf ball. On a floured or slightly oiled surface, roll each piece into a disc about 20-25cm in diameter and 1-2mm thick. Cook each disc on the hot surface for 30-60 seconds per side, until lightly browned.

Immediately after cooking, place the flatbread into a food-grade plastic bag or a large container with a lid. This will prevent the bread from drying out and keep it soft, making it easy to roll up with your favorite fillings.

Repeat this process with the remaining dough. You should yield 8-10 flatbreads from this mix. Whether you enjoy them straight from the pan or rolled around your favourite lunch ingredients a few days later, remember to enjoy!

Flatbreads can also be cooked over low heat on a barbecue hot plate.

Add a tablespoon of tomato paste and some herbs to your dough at mixing for a tomato flavoured flatbread.

Make your flatbread slightly smaller and thicker and use it cooked in some garlic butter, like Naan bread for curry.

Slightly smaller and thicker flatbreads can also be used as bao buns for your favourite slow cooked pork belly recipe.

4WD CLUB FOCUS

If you would like your club featured in our 4WD Club Focus, please email admin@western4wdriver.com.au

PERTH 4WD CLUB OF WA

BRIDGETOWN CHRISTMAS TRIP

BY MARCUS WERNLI — PERTH 4WD CLUB OF WA, CLUB PRESIDENT

Perth 4WD Club of WA shares a big day out in Bridgetown with the club.

We had three vehicles meet at the Atlas Fuel service station in Jarrahdale on Boxing Day. Some went early, some late, some made their own way down. We stopped for lunch at the St. David’s Church in Worsley and later walked across the suspension bridge near Collie. We settled in at the caravan park in Bridgetown, some of the sites had views over the Blackwood River.

27th: Trips coordinator Tony led the pack on a half day trip to Manjimup, going cross country, finding yummy cherries along the way.

28th: Tony was the leader again today, this time taking us to Callcup Hill. We took the Summertime Track south of Northcliff to the beach, then headed north for about 30km

along the beach to Callcup Hill. It was quite busy and we had to wait our turn to drive up the hill. We learnt from other vehicles getting stuck, and most of us made it up the hill first go. Coming down was much easier and we kept heading north along the beach, through the Yeagarup dunes back to Bridgetown. A big day, great 4W driving, and an early night.

29th: We drove around the forests close to Bridgetown, with a few hill climbs and pruning fallen branches so our cars would fit underneath. One particular hill climb was even too steep, rocky and dangerous for Tony. We found the bottom half of a one-legged mannequin near a pond. We took her back to camp, and despite her limited mobility, she ended up in a few different campsites over the next couple of days, sustaining a few more injuries along the way. We had the afternoon off, and the whole clan, 27 of us, enjoyed dinner at the cidery/ brewery/ distillery in Bridgetown.

30th: It was my turn again to lead a small convoy to Windy Harbour. From there, we took the inland track east to the Gardiner River, crossing the river mouth and then along the beach, taking a track to Moore’s Hut, where we had lunch.

Back to the beach, and more beach driving to the east, the sand becoming softer, until we reached West Cliff Point. A bumpy track took us further east to Fish Creek, which had spectacular views. From there, we started to make our way back, with the vegetation changing from low scrub to towering karri trees.

31st: On the last day of 2023, Tony led a trip to Lewana through the pine plantations. It was a mild day of 4W driving with nice views from hill tops. Most of us had an afternoon nap, getting ready for THE BIG NIGHT! Dave booked dinner for us at the pub, which was only a short stroll to the outdoor movie, set up in the local park. We watched Barbie, some liking it more than

others. Back at camp by 10pm, with only five of us making it until midnight. The sound of snoring drowning out any other noise by 12.15am.

1st: Everyone made their own way home, or to other locations, Happy New Year.

Participants: Andrea and Markus Wernli (trip leaders and report); Christine, Tony, and Jonathan Vagg with Joely; Charm Vagg with Jeffrey; Tammy and Dave Freakley; Elaine, Jeroen, Amber, and Isaac Thiesen; Jim and Sandra Richards; Stephen Gloor; Kim and Lynn Mosedale; Karen, Steven, Nathan, Jo-anna and Jaxon Vagg, Marc & Kelcey Ellis and children.

ABOUT PERTH 4WD CLUB OF WA

Perth 4WD Club of WA is a friendly and welcoming bunch of folk, keen to invite people who would like to know more about the club and 4W driving in general to join them.

Perth 4WD Club of WA organises various trips throughout the year catering for all levels of experience and vehicle capabilities. This includes awesome adventure touring with camping trips to the more extreme day or weekend trips (vehicle appropriate) as well as fun social events.

We will never put you or your 4WD in a situation you don't want to be in. If you are new to 4W driving or more experienced, we have something for everyone.

Monthly Meetings

When: On the second Wednesday of each month at 7.45pm

Where: RSL Club, 1 Fred Bell Parade, East Victoria Park

Upcoming Trips

1 April 2024

Easter trip to the Quindanning Picnic Races

1 June 2024

Dryandra Camping Trip

Visit perth4wdclub.net.au

WELL DONE JO!

You’ve won a Vehicle Survival

First Aid Kit valued at $130, from

JUST THE FACTS, M’AM

“So what have we got here, Detective? Looks like a picture.“

Yep. It’s a picture all right. Picture of a road with trees and a car. Nice picture. We’re analysing it down at the department to see what it tells us.

“Whatta ya got so far?“

Well, the car is on the left hand side of the road - so it’s either in Great Britain, Japan, or Singapore. We’re working on it.

“Can I make a suggestion? Thought of Australia?“

Oh. Well, that would explain the red road. But I thought they only had deserts in Australia …

“You’d be surprised. I note the driver of the vehicle is prepared for surprises. See the extra tyres and tool boxes on the top? They’ve done this before …“

But what about the haze and smoke in the distance - I mean it looks nice and contributes to the atmosphere of the shot, but do they have fires in Australia?

“You’d be surprised.“

Well, the picture was taken by Jo and a magazine wants to put it in their next issue and give a prize … but we’re still puzzling about the little black object on the right hand side of the road about halfway down the picture.

“Drop Bear. Dropped too early.“

I thought they were just a myth?

“You’d be surprised …“ SEND

with KARL FEHLAUER

MY SMARTPHONE APPS ARSENAL

Welcome to Edition 129 of this wonderful little magazine. In this article, I take you through my top smartphone apps to keep in your back pocket, particularly for while on the road.

In the last edition, I wrote about some of the accessories that you may need to assist you to take better photos and in particular for low light situations. The reason for this was I had just upgraded to the Samsung S23 Ultra and I intended to get out and try some nightscape photography. Unfortunately that hasn’t happened as I have injured my left knee and I am currently mobility restricted for some time and this has restricted by photography somewhat. What it has done though, is allowed me to take some time to plan some future photography trips once I have recovered. As a result, I have decided to write about some of the smartphone apps that I use to plan my trips, take and edit my photos. Note – I don’t generally edit my photos on my phone as I prefer to do it on the computer; however, there are some occasions when I do for a quick upload to my social media sites.

Your smartphone is just a small computer that you carry with you everywhere and we now use all sorts of apps to help through our day-to-day activities and photography is no different.

Whether you have an Android or iPhone device there is literally hundreds of apps available that relate to either photography or road trip travel planning.

The following apps are the ones that I use to do my photography and all but two are free; however, search through Google Play Store or Apple Store to find other useful apps to use.

PLANNING APPS

A saying we had in the army was, “Prior preparation and planning prevents p*** poor performance”, and this is so true. It is particularly important when planning photographic trips. Gone are the days when you would get up early in the morning at ‘O dark hundred’, drive a long distance to arrive at your location and find that it is raining and clouded in.

Now, in the palm of your hand, you have access to a whole lot of instant information, from weather conditions, travel distances, sun/moon rising and setting times, locations of the stars and the conditions at sunrise/sunset. So now, in a short time you can plan a trip and be very confident that when you are at your location, what the conditions are going to be like and what to expect once you get there.

Photo Pills (by Photo Pills

SL) — this is the main app that I use to plan my photography. It is a paid app but is worth the money for the information that you can get from it. The main ‘Pill’ that I use is the

planner page (see image). On this page, you can find a location anywhere in the world, drop your ‘pin’ on it and it will show you the sunrise/sunset times, golden and blue hour times, Milky Way timings and much more. Importantly, it also shows you the direction of the sun, moon or Milky Way at any time of the day. This is a highly recommended app. It does take a little bit of getting used to but once you do it will really help improve your photography.

Sky Candy (by Dunbar Technologies) — I use this app to see what the sky will be like for sunrise/sunset and whether there will be cloud and colour in the sky. It is particularly helpful if you want to capture the red and colourful dawn and dusk hours.

Light Pollution Map (by Dunbar Technologies) — this app is useful when planning nighttime photography, especially when trying to capture the Milky Way in the darkest skies possible. As the name suggest, it shows areas that are affected by light pollution and those that aren’t and the less light pollution the darker (and clearer) the night sky will be. We are very lucky here in WA as you don’t have to travel too far to get nice dark skies.

Star Tracker (by PYOPYO Studio) — this app is useful to show you where certain stars will be in the night sky and in particular, the position of the Milky Way at any given time and when used in conjunction with Photo Pills you can get very accurate results. Once

you are in location, you can use this app to help you compose your images.

Stellarium (by Stellarium Labs) — very similar to the Star Tracker App above but I find that it shows the constellations a lot clearer.

PHOTO PILLS PLANNER PAGE

STAR TRACKER

SKY CANDY STELLARIUM

CAMERA APPS

Generally, I use the Samsung camera app for most of my image taking; however, there are times when I will use an external app to take photos to achieve particular results. Here are some of the main apps I use.

Intervalometer (by Mobile Photon) — I use this app every time to do my timelapse images and I find it excellent for that. I will do an article on Timelapses and Hyperlapses in the near future to help readers get the hang of it.

MotionCam — I use this app more for video than photography as it allows you to shoot RAW Video. This is great for those that like to post process their video in software such as Da Vinci Resolve, as it allows them more room when editing their video footage.

ProCam X (by Imagi Mobile) — this app is very similar to Motion Cam and again I use it more for the video function than I do for photography. It allows you to shoot in HDR mode and this will give you great dynamic range to your video footage.

Light Meter (by Lite WB Photo) — I tend to use this app more when I am using my DSLR camera but it is also very useful if you want to accurately work out exposure for your Smartphone camera and for this, I use the ‘Camera Meter’ mode which is simple to use.

ND Exposure (by Eve&Else) — this is another app that I use mostly for my DSLR camera but can be very useful for your smartphone camera if you are using ND filters (which I highly recommend that you do). It quickly calculates the exposure time depending on the ND filter being used.

CAMERA EDITING APPS

As I mentioned before, I prefer to edit my images on my PC where I have a larger, calibrated screen to give me accurate colours and I can see the image better; however, there are times when I do edit on the phone, so here are the two editing apps that I use.

Lightroom (by Adobe) — I use Lightroom for virtually all post-processing of my images. The smartphone app is really easy to use and has most of the basic editing tools that you require to post-process an image.

Snapseed (by Google) — this is a free app and allows you to edit your images on your phone. It is relatively easy to use and there are lots of useful editing tools to use and being a Google product, it is updated on a regular basis.

These are just some of the many apps available and depending on your operating system (OS) there are a number of OS-only apps available in either Google Play or Apple that are worthwhile checking out. I know that Apple has a long exposure app for their iPhones that does a reasonably good job of taking long exposure images without the need for filters.

Another good place to get some info on the latest and greatest apps is YouTube and each year there are a number of YouTube creators who bring out Vlogs on all the new apps or the best apps to use, so check it out.

I hope that you have found this information useful. I am hoping to expand this column shortly to include drones and action cameras as they are small sensor cameras and have many similar features to Smartphones. Take care and keep the shiny side up and if not, take plenty of photos.

LIGHT METER HOME PAGE

with CHRIS JELLIE

IN AWE OF BARRABUP POOL

Having seen this place on the map, I’m kicking myself that I hadn’t visited earlier. Barrabup Pool is absolutely stunning. With an striking wooden jetty jutting out into the teal green pool, the invite of diving in is too good to resist.

The whole car park area is impressive, with towering trees, multiple fire pits and picnic tables, the setting is perfect for a day’s cooking adventure — whether it be gas or fire due to the season. You know where you can find me over these cooler months ...

Camping is close by at the Barrabup Pool or Workmans Pool camp sites with the usual DPAW amenities consisting of picnic tables, fire rings and long drop toilets. Due to it being a busy weekend we set up in the overflow carpark, which actually worked out well, having a decent amount of space. I don’t imagine it to be so busy during the cooler months.

The pool is large enough for a quick paddle on the kayak or paddle board and is beautifully surrounded by bush. The water is so inviting and supposedly deep, so keep this in mind if you have little ones. There is a 40km return Timberline Trail, that takes you along parts of St John Brook and the old train line, this can be walked or cycled and there is a spot to camp overnight at Cambray Siding.

As with most of the South West, it has a deep logging history. The Barrabup Mill was built in 1908 and was located close by to Workmans Pool. The railway through to Cambray Siding connected the mill. During its peak the mill employed 150 men! This ran through until 1925 when a new mill opened up in Nannup. I’ll be having a wander through the area next visit to see if there are any remnants of the old mill. I geek out on this stuff.

Workmans Pool was given its name due to the mill workers being forbidden to bathe in Barrabup Pool, as this was only for the mill owners. The owner’s house was perched upon the hill overlooking Barrabup Pool and was later moved into Nannup where it still stands to this day.

I have been told there are a heap of wildlife around this place at night too, but the crew I was with may have been a bit noisy ... I did hear some small things hopping around my tent during the night so quokkas may be around here?

I can’t wait to go back and have a good look around after dark.

ROTISSERIE LAMB

There is something about cooking meat on the spit. The meat basting itself as it spins, the juices dripping onto the coals or hot surface and vaporising, giving that smoky flavour that is synonymous with this style. The attraction for most, that mesmerising nature of watching the meat rotate and slowly cook, usually with a tin in hand.

When I cooked this lamb on the spit, it was Australia Day at Barrabup Pool. I cooked it in a gas Weber Go Anywhere, with a rotisserie riser I had made myself. Most of you know that fire and charcoal is my preferred method but alas this still went down a treat with the crew.

This will be more of an overview with tips than a formal recipe. I hope it helps.

For this recipe, I have used a banjo cut shoulder (no spine bones) which made it easier to spear the roto rod through but a leg will work well for this too.

The main thing to make sure of with the rotisserie is that it is attached and balanced properly. If it’s your first go at a roto, give it a spin without the heat source to make

sure you have it balanced well. Adjust if necessary.

The main difference you will notice between the leg and shoulder cut is the fat content. The rear leg is leaner and a harder working muscle than the front. The front being fattier can take more heat without drying out. Both are great slow cooked.

Whether you cook hot and fast or low and slow, rest well to get the best result.

I have rubbed this in our own Lemon #1 rub (biased haha) it gives a great bark and goes well with the lamb.

Cook over a medium to low heat is my advice but this method is a pretty loose one. I had all day to let it spin.

Cook the leg to 145 –165°F for a medium to well done, the shoulder I would take to 195°F.

Rest for as long as you can and tuck in!

Add gravy in some rolls or sides and salads and enjoy! Hope you see you out there

cooking sometime.

NOW WE'RE TAWKING!

Travelling Australia With Kids with MANDY FARABEGOLI

TRAVELLING AUSTRALIA WITHOUT KIDS

Hi regular readers

I have news ....

The time has come for me to leave TAWK!

After 13 years since starting Travel Australia With Kids, pursuing my dream to encourage families to travel with their children AND help make it cheaper; it's time for me to hand over the baton to another family who are currently TAWKing.

My children are grown now, so I feel it's time to introduce a new exciting family who are eager to take TAWK to the next level.

The new owners are husband and wife team Lucas and Tara Hay, along with Tara's sister Chelsey Wight. Lucas and Tara are travelling full time in their caravan with their two kids, and Chelsey is a weekend warrior with her kids who plans to travel Australia too.

They are passionate about travelling families and aim to grow the TAWKer Supporter Program and the community of TAWKer families living this wonderful life on the road.

Looking back, I like to think I've made a small difference with the TAWKer Supporter Program and the TAWK Membership,

helping make travel cheaper for those who choose to stay in TAWK parks and save with two nights of free camping for their kids.

I will now be Travelling Australia Without Kids! Wait a second ... it's the same acronym — so I'll still be TAWKing!

You can expect a new bout of insights, advice, and travel stories from Lucas, Tara and Chelsey who will continue advocating for better family deals and cheaper travel, so stay tuned.

Holiday in WA

Holiday in WA

Holiday in WA

Holiday in WA

When you holiday in WA, book with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses and you’ll get a quality assured operator wherever you go.

When you holiday in WA, book with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses and you’ll get a quality assured operator wherever you go.

When you holiday in WA, book with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses and you’ll get a quality assured operator wherever you go.

From hotels and guided tours to shops and services, you can expect quality, reliability and great customer service.

When you holiday in WA, book with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses and you’ll get a quality assured operator wherever you go.

Holiday in WA

From hotels and guided tours to shops and services, you can expect quality, reliability and great customer service.

From hotels and guided tours to shops and services, you can expect quality, reliability and great customer service.

When you holiday in WA, book with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses and you’ll get a quality assured operator wherever you go.

From hotels and guided tours to shops and services, you can expect quality, reliability and great customer service.

From hotels and guided tours to shops and services, you can expect quality, reliability and great customer service.

To book your holiday with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses, visit www.holidayinwa.com.au

To book your holiday with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses, visit www.holidayinwa.com.au

To book your holiday with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses, visit www.holidayinwa.com.au

To book your holiday with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses, visit www.holidayinwa.com.au

To book your holiday with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses, visit www.holidayinwa.com.au

Safe and happy travels! Mandy western4wdriver.com.au

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I'm usually more concerned with doing the recovery than taking photos so it's the only bogged shot I've got.

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KEEP ‘EM COMING FOLKS. All you need is a potentially funny situation, a good sense of humour and of course, your camera.

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