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WEDNESDAY THE DAILY NEWS 14 SEPTEMBER 2016
Ventures (Fabrics, 5N3). Grand Jury Prize fabrics PV Awards 2016.
LIMITS ARE SURPASSED THIS WINTER P.6
THE PV AWARDS AS TOLD BY OLIVIER GABET, PRESIDENT OF THE JURY 2016 P.7
Discover the new uses of Merino wool for summer 18 by Woolmark®. 5pm. Hall 5, room 516 B
Visit «Timée» an artistic installation. An ExperiencePV. Hall 5, between aisles 5N and 5P
Cast an eye on leather innovations and practicality. Incube Forum. Hall 3
Relax at the Chameleon Bar, with a new decoration everyday. Hall 5 North
Taste yummy chocolate-flavoured accessories. And taste again. Taste Your Style. Hall 4
Treat yourself to a nail polish in the colours of the season. Color your day. Knitwear Solutions. Hall 6
AWARDING OF THE 6 TEXPRINT® COMPETITION PRIZES by Martin Leuthold (creative director, Jacob Schlaepfer) Designs, TEXPRINT® VILLAGE, HALL 5 NORTH
ALONG YOUR WAY, DO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF SUPRISEPV. Step inside the Strike the pose studio, do your thing for 7 seconds, and get your own flipbook - in that day’s Chameleon Bar colours. Then share your images at #wearepremierevision. Designs, CHAMELEON BAR, HALL 5
SMART TALKS OF THE DAY
11 am • P&G Science revealed: Innovating to keep fabrics like new, with advanced cleaning and care in every wash. Neil Lant, P&G, Research Fellow. 12 pm • Transparency. Inka Apter (Eileen Fisher), Simone Stelloni (Re.Verso™ by A.Stelloni, Collection by Mapel), Hannes Parth (Frumat), Federico Brugnoli (Spin 360 srl). 3 pm • Smart Care. Catarina Midby (H&M), Inka Apter (Eileen Fisher), July Coo (P&G) Première Vision Smart Creation Square. Fabrics, HALL 5 NORTH, AISLE 5F
RETRO-REFLECTIVE, FLUORESCENT... HOW DO YOU LIGHT UP FASHION? Flavio Fattorini, Barzaghi HTR 1926 “A specialist in luminous fabrics for 5 years, Dreamlux has just developed a new fibre-optic multi-yarn perfect for embroidery. A two-hour charge is enough to give a touch of light to fabrics, and will last 40 hours. This collaboration between Barzaghi and Dreamlux is a marriage between technology and history serving customization: any of our fabrics or motifs can be embroidered in luminous yarn.” Fabrics, 6J15 Charles Joo, SNT “Our new Optical Fabrics line uses an innovative polymer - poly methyl methacrylate - to give fabrics a luminous autonomy (each recharge lasts about five hours). These connected fabrics and yarns are perfect for the sporty and technical world, as well as luminous logos and out-there wedding dresses.” Fabrics, 5D6-5E5
Daniele Marinai, Kemas “For the past year, our range of chemical processes for leather has been lit up with tumble-dyed fluorescents. These skins with vitamin-boosted colours - yellow, green, fluorescent white - are transformed by a black light. Like this gummy skin with a «Monet» reptile effect, whose fluorescent decorative motifs blend an impressionistic feel with a Pop luminosity.” Leather, 3B46 Céline Cugerone, JRC Reflex “For more than 30 years, our multi-layer coatings of glass beads have been giving fabrics retro-reflective properties. While silver remains the most requested colour, this year we went for glittery retro-reflective stretch fabrics, designed to lend a glamorous touch to any textile or footwear design.” Accessories, 4H33-4I34
IN THE PARLOR OF MARIE-ANGE GUILLEMINOT, EVERYTHING IS TRANSFORMED … “Here I’m telling stories of creation and transformation, it’s the DNA of Première Vision and the backbone of my work,” says artist Marie-Ange Guilleminot. Each work is manipulated by hands gloved with a washable white leather by Tanneries Pechdo (Leather, 3G4). Everything, whether tangible or digital, has a double use. Hung on the rack of a bike, the book-bag for fall 2016 (made by the Coups de Crayons workshop) changes into a desk blotter. The “life-hat” slips from
the head to the neck, and was made by Emo (Manufacturing, 6V19), with an elastic tie made in the atelier of Cécile Feilchenfeldt (exhibitor at Maison d’Exceptions in February, and the face of the current Première Vision Paris campaign). So take advantage of the deckchairs covered in skin by Remy Carriat (Leather, 3F9-3G10) and France Tanneries (Leather, 3F33) to soak up the new possibilities imagined by the artist. Manufacturing, HALL 6 NORTH
AUTUMN WINTER 17-18
THE DESIGNER KNOWN FOR HER FOOTWEAR TAKES US THROUGH THE FORUMS, POINTING OUT HER INSPIRATIONS AND FAVOURITES. I really like this pale rose crocodile skin from Topcroc (Leather, 3G41/3H42). Its natural shine and delicate nuances, along with its satiny feel, are a good example of luxury as I see it: rich but always sophisticated, and never showy. Leather, TRENDS GALLERY & FILM, HALL 3
This transparent biodegradable leather from Anil Tannery (Leather, 3I22) is my treasure: its gummy, almost latex handle and its surprising transparency seem a very promising technological innovation. I absolutely agree with the choice made by the jury of the PV Awards. Leather, INCUBE, HALL 3 .../...
How to successfully start a fashion accessories business? Special insights in partnership with Au-delà du Cuir, today at 3 pm.. Leather, HALL 3, FIRST LOUNGE
EVER MORE TECH Here we find ever finer knits, really heat-regulating wools (worn right against the skin) and ever lighter synthetics. The Tech Focus forum includes, along with fabrics, waterproof zippers, reflecting finishings, antiskid rubbers and invisible snaps, all from Accessories. For an even more high-performant dive into outdoors, athleisure, sports and lifestyle. Tech Focus, Fabrics, HALL 6, AISLE J
LOOK OUT, TALENT ON THE RISE
Boldness, graphic power, strong visual impact: those were just some of the raves about the men’s collection by Wataru Tominaga, winner of the 2016 Première Vision Grand Jury Prize at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography. The young designer is inspired by emancipated fringe groups such as hippies or nerds to break down stereotypes. Overstitched pleats, wide flocked vinyl stripes and juxtapositions of bright colours...his goal is to change the perception of men’s ready to wear. His clothes are exhibited alongside large-format photos of the collections of the other Hyères Fashion Festival finalists. Garments that relied on the skills of Première Vision Paris exhibitors, who have been supporting the celebrated festival of young fashion designers for the past five years now. Fabrics, ENTRY TO HALL 6
AT HOME WITH SERGE BENSIMON The design-partner of the hostess outfits this season, Serge Bensimon has developed several concept stores in Paris: a lifestyle concept store, a design gallery and a library of art and images. All to show how well fashion lives outside the boundaries of textiles. He shares with you confidential Paris addresses on the blog: www.bensimon.com/ fr/interview-les-meilleuresadresses-de-sergebensimon-lifestyle-paris/ • Home Autour du monde 20 rue des Pyramides , Paris 1. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois Paris 3. 54, rue de Seine, Paris 6. • Gallery S.Bensimon 111, rue de Turenne, Paris 3. • Artazart Design Bookstore 83 quai de Valmy, Paris 10.
THIS SEASON, IT’S POSSIBLE TO GO OFF ON A TANGENT, THANKS TO A FILM DEDICATED TO THE AW 17-18 LEATHER SEASON. STEP IN TO REJECT THE INEVITABLE, AND TAKE THE BYWAYS. DON’T MISS THIS CHANCE.
Leather, TREND GALLERY, HALL 3
IRREGULAR AND SOPHISTICATED, NATURAL AND CHIC: BALANCING RANDOMNESS IN BOTH VISUALS AND TEXTURE IS ONE OF THE SECRETS TO STANDING OUT. There’s an art to standing out, and this season it lies in subtlety. At Marini & Cecconi (Fabrics, 5L42-5M41), the quest for surprising detail is rendered in washable stonewashed and deliciously vintage wools. The decorative irregularities emerge thanks to space-dyed yarns.
YARNS AND KNITS
There’s twisting and turning going on at the new Yarns & Knitwear space. Spinners favour yarns with lively visuals and behaviours, expressing creativity in motion, presented at the Yarns Index. Knitters wrap the body in twirls. Knitwear Solutions gave carte blanche to Xavier Brisoux, aided by 2 spinners, M. Oro Cashmere (Yarns, 6G52) and E. Miroglio Ead (Yarns, 6J55), and 2 knitters, Maglificio Ellynore (Knitwear Solutions, 6K40) and Jean Ruiz (Knitwear Solutions, 6J46). The knit designer developed a capsule collection of clothing and stitch points worked around the bias, in shapes that twist, untwist, and wrap around the body. Yarns & Knitwear Forum, HALL 6, AISLE J
50 & 70 YEARS OLD Première Vision wishes a happy birthday to Promostyl (Fabrics, 5C4-5D3), 50 and to Alan Litman (Fabrics, 5M16), 70.
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What I like about this white sample from AT+T (Accessories, 4G11) is its at once pure and ambiguous look. You’d think it was latex or pleated fabric. It’s both romantic and techno-futuristic. Accessories, DISPLAY FORUM, HALL 4
Imperfection is also cultivated in a grandiose manner, with maxi brushed jacquards that reveal a deceptively poorly-shorn furry look. For its part, Boutons Kocher (Accessories, 4D48) elaborates solution-dyed polyester to bring out irregular and natural aspects in its buttons. Alexandra Sandrut, head of collections at Christian Louboutin and a member of the 2016 PV Awards jury, is seduced by the charms of imperfection. She noted a South African kid leather at Alran (Leather, 3F59) that is naturally irregular, elegantly unique. A leather that cultivates difference through natural accidents.
This mother-of-pearl heel from Pianeta Gemme (Accessories, 4F29) really caught my eye for its precious yet natural look, which turns the heel into a jewel on its own. Accessories, SHOE FOCUS, HALL 4
01 A WAVE OF WARMTH Soft, warm, woolly: the results of yesterday’s survey were clear. Menswear wants comfort, something enveloping. With wool-cottons, lots of brushings, flannel aspects, and finely brushed shirtings. And especially velvets, updated this season in all its varieties - very wide ribs, mini-prints, semi-plains and chines - which also caught the eye in moleskin or chenille versions, and as much demanded in shirt weights as pant weights.
Batm (Fabrics, 6H28) Van Delden (Fabrics, 6E12)
01 Microtex – Be Mood (Fabrics, 6L13)
Cosserat Kindermann (Fabrics, 6F24)
02 SPECIAL YARNS The nature of the yarn structure the men’s season, in all sectors. It’s what gives added-value to the product. In suitings, knits and shirts, buyers noted fancy yarns. Moulinés and jaspés are preferred for the very civilized irregularity they bring to coat weights. Or the micro-knops, for perturbations infusing poplins and fine shirtings.
WHAT ARE MENSWEAR BUYERS LOOKING FOR ? HERE THE FIRST INDICATIONS FROM YESTERDAY’S AISLES, FROM THE PREMIERE VISION FABRICS SURVEYS.
03 CITY IN TECH Suits are suits, but not really… the moment has come for the augmented suit. Selected combed woollens are ultra-functional, integrating incognito fashion elements from Tech : fine, water-breathable or windproof membranes and other waterresistant treatments. Without forgetting the advantage of stretch, a new must-have in requests for men’s fabrics. 04 ELOQUENT SURFACES More than half of the visitors ask for structureds. They want to see the weave or herringbone appearing, the diagonal crisscrossing, the basketweave intersecting. They appreciate real relief, quiltings, embossings, patterns in 3D. Once again, all weaves are sought after in tidy and perfectly drawn versions, and without any stiffness.
NEAT BUT NOT SO SMOOTH The season’s menswear looks to be chic and neat, both in casualwear and citywear, but without any boredom. There’s a unanimity to personalities that doesn’t preclude behaviour differences. Requests went to dense and very light, almost soufflé-like, suitings. In contrast, cottons and denims are liked a little thick, voluminous and softly protective.
05 JACQUARDS AND FRIENDS Menswear knows no more frontiers. For future collections, they blithely draw on typical feminine fabrics. Figureds, jacquards, cut-yarns and dobbies reworked by weavers seduce buyers. The new men’s semi-plains in suitings? Ultra-discreet small figureds and damasks. New shirt designs? Micro-dobbies! The new placed motifs in knits? Cut-yarn jacquards.
Arsan (Fabrics, 6G27)
AUTUMN WINTER 17-18
VIEWPOINTS ON MENSWEAR FOR AUTUMN WINTER 17-18 WERE GATHERED AT THE WEAVERS
OUR JACQUARDS ARE BROKEN DOWN IN VERY WIDE WIDTH REPEATS. We can go up to 71 cm as opposed to 32 and 51 cm previously. In fashion, a desire for grandeur, even something spectacular, has really taken off, especially in large fluid engineered panels for dresses. Another trend are the all-over or XXL motifs inspired by figuratives, with slightly fantastical flowers and beasts treated in a “Lyonnais” style.”
DISPROPORTION, EXACERBATED RELIEF, AMPLIFIED VOLUME, THE TIME IS RIGHT FOR EXCESS! HOW TO REALLY PUSH THE LIMITS?
WE BREAK DOWN OUR ACCESSORIES IN XXL VERSIONS because it’s important for us to meet every desire, even the most extravagant ones. For example our Jumbo zip, with a 9.5 mm wide plastic spiral, really appeals to fashion designers who want to appropriate it from its original use on heavy canvas. In terms of buttons, we use Zamak. It’s injectedmoulded and offers a lot of volume options. Another possibility for the luxury world is turned brass, which also lets us maximise volume, as opposed to classic brass, which is shaped by stamping and has size limitations. We try never to curb the imagination of our clients!”
Jean-François Romieu, Ulysse Pila
OUR YARNS ARE IN 5-7 GAUGES. Their volume is sometimes strengthened by the play on colours. They are animated with irregular texture, with wool-acrylic or woolmohair blends, with bouclé and even grizzly-style hairy yarns for a crazy fur aspect.”
Ginevra Fiaschi, Cofil,
Nicolas Bouquière, Prym Fashion Italia,
MY PERSONALITY IS NATURALLY GEARED TO GENEROUS PRINTS, often black and white so that the idea doesn’t focus on the motif itself. I did a series on clowns and animals, but I am mostly inspired by flora for the largest and most abstract motifs. I project details found in nature into XXL sizes. I want my artistic gestures to be very fluid, for something somewhere between macro design and calligraphy.”
Sarah Corynen, Sarah Corynen,
I PLAY AROUND WITH CONTRADICTIONS IN MATERIALS. For example I mix up volume and scale effects. I’m really attracted to ultra-wide-wale corduroy, which is light in spite of its size.”
Wataru Tominaga, Winner of the 2016 Première Vision Grand Jury Prize at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography
AT OUR COMPANY, VOLUME COMES TO LIFE THANKS TO MACRO KNITS THAT are accumulated one on another, lending an architecture to textiles and figuring relief. And sometimes we simulate a figured woven effect in our jacquard knits.”
Ana Segurado, A. Ferreira & Filhos,
Knitwear Solutions, 6K43
AUTUMN WINTER 17-18
“AT THE PV AWARDS I DISCOVERED THAT THE WEAVERS AND TANNERS WERE CHARTING A NEW COURSE, WITH FUTURISTIC TRANSFORMATIONS ON HISTORICAL OR TRADITIONAL BASES.” Giampietro Baudo, editor in chief, MF Fashion, 2016 jury member
OF ALL THE PRESENTED FABRICS, I WAS ATTRACTED TO SOFT HANDLES TEAMED WITH GEOMETRIC VISUALS, FOR STRANGE THINGS THAT GAVE ME IDEAS FOR CLOTHING WITH A TRIUMPHANT FEMININITY. Maria Luisa Requena, senior fashion consultant, El Corte Inglés, 2016 jury member
PVAWARDS2016 Grand Jury Prize fabric Ventures (IN), Fabrics, 5N3 Imagination Prize fabric Henri Portier/Bennett Silks (GB), Fabrics, 5K21
“IT’S NOT ABOUT BEING IN THE ZEITGEIST, IT’S ABOUT EXACTLY PINPOINTING OUR TIMES.”
WHAT WERE THE WORKING GOALS FIXED BY THE 2016 JURY YOU CHAIRED? Handing out prizes is a way of saying something about today’s world. Rather than just being in step with the times, we wanted to represent the moment itself, to exactly pinpoint our times: 2016, 2017, 2018... WERE THE JURY’S DECISIONS OBVIOUS AND CONSENSUAL? The 2016 jury members reflect an interesting diversity: individuals
from the press, the industry, but also enlightened amateurs like myself. We truly made our decisions, if not always consensually, definitely out of a strong desire to choose the best, because we wanted our decisions to reflect strong ideas. WHAT ARE THE STRENGTHS OF THE JURY GRAND PRIZES THIS EDITION? The Grand Jury Prize for fabrics is a kind of netting by Ventures, with plays on beautiful beads, embroidered to each other, while each remains independent and moves at its own rhythm. It’s magic, and totally subtle. I still don’t know how it works. You can imagine it in a range of colours, in various combinations, and maybe even figurative motifs. The Grand Jury Prize for leather
went to Dileather, for a very powerful leather, marked by stripes, irregular pleatings and magnificent cracklings in a very deep emerald green. It looks like it’s lived a lot, already been a sophisticated coat, for example, yet with something quite graphic and very plastic about it. WHAT WERE SOME OTHER JURY FAVOURITES? The Handle Prizes share an intense night blue colour. Japanese Tanner Sakamoto Corp. used an indigo for a shimmering, very elegant piece, with great depth and beautiful texture. In fabrics, the Handle Prize winner is a very dense knit crepe from Luxury Jersey. It isn’t a really obvious fabric - it’s soft and harsh at the same time, a little stretch, both fluid and heavy. The fabric Imagina-
Handle Prize fabric Luxury Jersey (IT), Fabrics, 5P6 Grand Jury Prize leather Dileather (IT), Leather, 3E64 Imagination Prize leather Anil Tannery (TR), Leather, 3I22 Handle Prize leather Sakamoto Corp (JP), Leather, 3H79 Each of these remarkable fabrics and leathers are exhibited in The Forum, Fabrics, HALL 6 tion Prize was given to an incredible Henri Portier silk, extremely visual, very «modern French school». It’s a satin printed on the back, where the print hardens the textile in places, creating an articulated fabric. For the leather Imagination Prize, we chose an ultra-smooth, ultra-oiled skin, reduced to its strictest truth. Anil Tannery made it as a kind of parchment for today: both transparent and supple, ancient and very modern.
* DIRECTOR OF THE MUSÉES DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS (FRANCE) AND PRESIDENT OF THE 2016 PV AWARDS JURY.
most critical is the excellence of the know-how. And what’s most difficult: knowing how to nurture that know-how and adapt it. The most gratifying part, of course, is being successful with our clients, and their loyalty. And through it all, the most personal moment is when we have to decide to abandon a project, to say ‘no’, in the interest of our client. And there are those moments where we say ‘yes’. Yes to that customer who wanted a 100% silk with the same characteristics as a 100% wool. Which we did... As for me, I set the course. They’ll tell you that my intense financial training translates into a fondness for clear and direct messages. Now, following my father, I am the captain of the ship. It’s up to me to define, propose and implement the strategic directions that will steer our future growth. And to take the helm during violent economic cycles.
Jean-Laurent Perrin, chairman of Tissages Perrin, Première Vision Fabrics (5L12-5M11), chose "cold ember" from the AW1718 colour range.
DOES TODAY LOOK TERRIBLY YESTERDAY TO YOU? Don’t like routine? Come join the world of weavers. We are specialists in silk, in precious and natural fibres. From the fields of mulberry trees to the runway podiums, and the workshops of course, our job is about passion and enthusiasm. But beware:
this business, like fashion in general, is unfair. You have to keep your head... We depend on the world around us, we have to know how to bend to its constraints. Today, no one can afford wait. You have to always think about tomorrow, think about what comes next, and therefore think differently. But what’s
PERSEVERING DIRECTOR Satanansingh Juddoo, managing director of Chemiserie Bellvill & Co, , Première Vision Manufacturing (6X19), chose "taurine" from the AW1718 colour range.
KEEPING UP WHILE KEEPING AN EYE ON THE TRENDS. That’s crucial. You have to keep an eye on everything going on, constantly think up new strategies, and find the right balance between marketing, finance and
production for each order. I’m persistent, a good planner and passionate about my work. That’s what it takes in our business, right? It’s probably because I’m a child of the Seraglio. My father and his brothers founded their manufacturing business in 1968. They were the first shirt exporters in Mauritius. I joined the family
business sooner than expected, on the death of my father. It was the right place to learn for a 21 year old kid. At that time we had developed partnerships with European customers such as C&A, Monoprix, Debenhams, Paco and Disney, and Americans such as Oxford Industries, Warnaco and American Design Studio. And then the year 2000 arrived. Maybe because the century changed, I launched my own business, and quickly developed my exports to South Africa and France. What are my finest achievements? Technically, sleeve-making and back yokes for striped shirts. On a personal level, it was when a buyer let it be known that he wouldn’t be coming to the factory, because «this guy knows his job, it’s not worth our time to go there to verify everything.”
Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/ Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 – Tel: 33(0)4 72 60 65 00 – Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09. Email: info @premierevision.com – Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: B. Nottoli, C. Desheulles, S. Kossmann, RR FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM #WEAREPREMIEREVISION
The Daily News of Première Vision Paris 14 September 2016