Première Vision Paris / Daily News / Sept16 / Day 1

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TUESDAY THE DAILY NEWS 13 SEPTEMBER 2016

SHINE?

IT’S MULTIFACETED AND ESSENTIAL THIS WINTER P.6

Les Ateliers Tamalet (Accessories, 4D09)

AN ECO-RESPONSIBLE APPROACH, IN WORDS AND DEEDS, AT SMART CREATION SQUARE P.7

YARNS

See the AW 17.18 highlights for fibres & yarns (weaving and flatbed knits). New location Hall 6 North.

Yarns & Knitwear Forum

FABRICS

Experiment in blue at the expo in partnership with L’Ècole Duperré.

(Paris) Hall 6, Upper Jeanswear

LEATHER

Let’s talk about leather, at the Leather Fashion Breakfasts. Daily at 10:30 am.

Hall 3, First Lounge.

DESIGNS

Admire the directions for the winter to come for decoration.

Hall 5 North, Designs Forum

ACCESSORIES

Take a DIY break by personalising some goodies at the Custom Bar. Hall 4 North, Aisles C and D

MANUFACTURING

Meet the major fashion manufacturing players from the Euromed Zone, Madagascar, and Mauritius.

Hall 6

#WEAREPREMIEREVISION

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2016 PV AWARDS PRIZE CEREMONY Come discover the 3 most outstanding fabrics and leathers of the season and meet the members of the jury. Olivier Gabet, Jury president (Director of the Musées des Arts Décoratifs, France). Maria Luisa Requena (El Corte Ingles). Debora Sinibaldi (Christian Dior).

Alexandra Sandrut (Christian Louboutin). Michael Hadida (L’Eclaireur). Natasha Lenart (Beckham Ventures). Wataru Tominaga (Winner of the 2016 Première Vision Grand Jury Prize at Hyères).

Roland Schar (ENSAD). Giampietro Baudo (MF Fashion). Claude Vuillermet (Première Vision Leather). Pascaline Wilhelm (Première Vision).

Fabrics. HALL 6, THE FORUM.

ENJOY, TUCKED BETWEEN THE AISLES, THIS SEASON’S EXPERIENCEPV. Timée (photo), an immersive audio-visual experience by Guillaume Marmin (original idea) and Philippe Gordiani (sound composition), in a work inspired

by Plato explaining his vision of the cosmos in 360 BC. Fabrics. HALL 5, BETWEEN AISLES 5N AND 5P.

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NEWS

TRANSFORMATION PARLOR Marie-Ange Guilleminot, French contemporary artist, rolls out her sunbeds in taurillon leather, touches up her «life hat» and grabs her apron-tablet before stepping into her spiral library-wardrobe. To give inspiration to producers and artisans.

Manufacturing. HALL 6 NORTH.

5 HALL

HIGH FANCY

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Roland Schar, Professor, Textile and Texture Design, ENSAD «What I really liked were the examples of traditional know-how worked into a very contemporary

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EMBROIDERIES LACES

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SILKIES TREND AGENCIES & BOOK SELLERS

Michael Hadida, l’Éclaireur, Director of development and buyer for multibrand stores.

«I was drawn to the material, to its depth. Actually, the root of our work is bringing to light what is often hidden, to reveal the unspoken, the profound technique behind simplicity. To find here, for example, a peach skin, or over there an exceptional double face - creations that exist to surprise us in all their simplicity. It’s a little bit like what we look for in people. You can’t be disappointed when there’s nothing on the outside... It’s only by digging a little deeper that you can discover amazing things.»

6 HALL

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approach. So that what could be a totally everyday fabric is, at the same time, a truly luxury fabric, low-key and discreet and really well suited to the times.»

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Debora Sinibaldi, Knitwear Designer for Christian Dior and professor at the Milan Polytechnique, Fashion Design Department.

«My plans for my collection are already running through my mind.

At the same time I expect and I hope that there will be fabrics and new ideas that will set me on a new path for a look, a garment, an atmosphere, or a colour combination. This season I really liked the fabrics that are very strong visually. I loved the really big decoration, the colours, the embroideries, the whole excessive effect.»

KNITS

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THE JURORS OF THE PV AWARDS TALK ABOUT THEIR EXPERIENCES...

PRINTS

THERE IS MOVEMENT IN HALLS 5 AND 6 Yarns move closer to knitters.

Now, Première Vision Yarns and Knitwear Solutions are found in the NORTH OF HALL 6, near Première Vision Manufacturing, to foster synergies between visits tied to product development and those related to production buys.

The new Yarns & Knitwear Forum opens fashion information for these industries to a diversity of applications around using yarns in fabrics, circular knits and flatbed knits. In HALL 6, Upper Jeanswear relocates to the west

as do Premium Relax and Shirting, while Tech, for technical fabrics, has been enlarged and relocated in the centre of the hall. The Tech Focus Forum has undergone changes as well, and invites in Première Vision Accessories and its more high-tech samples.

All these changes have been designed with the same goal in mind: to make both the visits of the buyers and the work of the exhibitors more efficient and productive.

AUTUMN WINTER 17-18

AGUIDEDTOUROFTHESEASON

PASCALINEWILHELM

Left : photo Oliver Schwarzwald, styling Elena Mora - Right: © Kylli Sparre/Trevillion Images

MUSES AND NUGGETS OF IDEAS FOR AUTUMN WINTER 17-18, REVEALED BY THE PREMIÈRE VISION FASHION DIRECTOR. Artist Elena Mora dreams of poetic everyday scenes, of a winter season cultivating contemporary utopias, for a tomorrow that plays with realities, surfing the wave of current mutations.

Kylli Sparre prompts us to wrap up in lightness, to create our own transparent bubble open to the outside world, inviting us to inject fresh air into our ideas.

Leather, HALL 3

SMART

CREATION

SQUARE

Here’s a new space dedicated to responsible creation and production.

Places to discover, share, and highlight the advances and innovations proposed by exhibitors in terms of eco-responsibility.

Fabrics, HALL 5 NORTH. AISLE 5F (SEE PAGE 7)

GRAPHIC INTERLOCKINGS The graphic abyss and mesmerizing repetitions reminiscent of Escher (of those black-and-white stairs endlessly devolving into infinite structures) is one of the season’s real curiosities. Selecta Como (Fabrics, 5D18-5E17) reveals a fluid silk with a ‘bandana’ visual worked in a very closely-set all over, creating a nesting of patterns in which can be found the hypnotic gaze of an owl. On the leather side of things, Concheria Trend (Leather, 3F66) proposes an obsessive and deceptively 3D honeycomb. Graphic tessellations are simply amazing at WSG USA (Accessories, 4C49-4D50), as seen in their beetle coat of arms, where a traditional embroidery is layered over a metal line tracing a digital network over the insect’s morphology. The designer Marie Wagner (Designs, 5U85), methodically superimposes and shifts the layers of a rigorous geometry with an imperceptibly blurry line, creating fascinating frames within frames, and stories within stories.

EVENTS Season trend tasting Wednesday 14. 12:30 pm.

Colour trend tasting Tuesday 13, Wednesday 14, Thursday 15. 10:30 am.

HALL 5, ROOM 501 (FRENCH/ENGLISH).

Fabrics trend tasting Tuesday 13, Thursday 15. 12:30 pm.

HALL 5, ROOM 501 (FRENCH/ENGLISH).

Leather fashion breakfast Daily, 10:30 am.

HALL 3, FIRST LOUNGE (FRENCH/ENGLISH/ITALIAN).

Set societa europa tessile (Fabrics, 5C38-5E39)

HALL 5, ROOM 501 (FRENCH/ENGLISH).

HAVE SOME FUN Look out for new SURPRISESPV. HALL 4, at Accessories, at Taste your style you can sample some chocolates, or, a bit farther North, customise your goodies with a range of accessories at the Custom bar. In HALL 5, at Designs, you can step into a photo booth at Strike the pose to do your thing, and leave with your flipbook.

And in HALL 6 alongside Knitwear Solutions, be sure to get a nail polish in the colours of the season thanks to Colour your day.

Because everyone needs a few free treats in their day.

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EXHIBITORS, STOP BY THE NEWSROOM AND TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST INITIATIVES AND NEW PRODUCTS FOR WINTER 17-18! THE PREMIÈRE VISION DAILY TEAM WELCOMES YOU TO COME BY AND MEET THEM.

Newsroom, HALL 5, NEAR STAND 5C11.

WATER? IS IT POSSIBLE FOR A WEAVER, A SPINNER OR AN ACCESSORY MANUFACTURER TO TAKE CARE OF IT OVER THE LONG TERM? It all depends on the willingness and choices made by each company. UTT (Yarns, 6G61) for example, regards respecting the environment as a fundamental part of its business. A treatment and recycling station has been installed within its factory to use rainwater and recycled water for yarn dyeing. For its part, Dienpi (Accessories, 4G15) adheres to

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NEWS A BENSIMON-RIOPELE DRESS If you bring together Serge Bensimon (famed for his French casualwear and coloured sneakers that are a chic staple from sidewalks to beaches) with one of the oldest and most wellknown Portuguese companies in the textile industry, Riopele (Fabrics, 6K14 - 6L9), here’s what you get... Two dresses in chic, fluid and lightweight crepe, in two shades of navy blue, to outfit this season’s Première Vision Paris hostesses.

the Greenpeace Detox Protocol.

The Italian company is committed to not using chemicals reported

by NGOs as being extremely harmful. That means that many fewer pollutants to be found in nature! Another example, Formosa Taffeta (Fabrics, 6H23), specialist in technical synthetics, has chosen to preserve water resources through a dyeing process that doesn’t use one drop of water.

Many other exhibitors protect our water resources too. Discover them at Smart Creation Square.

Fabrics, HALL 5 NORTH. AISLE 5F

THE SOURCING

CONNECTION

Today, Tuesday, and tomorrow, Wednesday, meet a select group of Asia Pacific manufacturers at The Sourcing Connection Première Vision show at the Paris Events Center.

FREE ENTRY WITH THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS PASS. FREE SHUTTLE FROM PARIS NORD VILLEPINTE, RER FORECOURT.

GUIDEDVISIT

Augmented humans, or humanised robots, from Fabrics to the hennaed LEDs of Amrita Kulkarni, fashion fuses high-tech and tradition, ornamentation and futurism. HALL 5 AND 6

A decorative opulence is spreading, and emerges alongside more low-key interpretations at Accessories.

The ornament is bathed in simplicity, like in the faïence elaborated on a rock by Dalila Gonçalves. HALL 4

The pictorial and the spontaneous are back in charge. The evolving relationship between the sensory world and the digital world, as seen here in the work of Giacomo Carmagnola, finds an echo at Designs. HALL 5 NORTH

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Left: Kneaded Memory © Dalila Gonçalves/www.dalilagoncalves.com - Top right: Design Amrita Kulkarni, cargocollective.com/amritakulkarni/Henna © Bare Conductive - Bottom right: © Giacomo Carmagnola

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VIEW IN

AUTUMN WINTER 17-18

A FEW STEPS AWAY To escape normalcy and delight in the slightly offbeat, designers traced out slightly wacky designs: figurative all-overs infused with a Pop-style, unsettling humour.

In accessories, interferences between minimalism and opulence shake up aesthetic lines, redefining the harmony between the precious and the everyday. In textiles, when things look simple, keep alert: up close, you can discover a wealth of ornamentation processes, and semi-plains resulting from a pileup of jacquards, dyed yarns, prints and embroidery. At the tanners, some skins are truly intriguing, they appear to be derived from animals with a decidedly unfamiliar DNA. Keep a lookout this season is full of surprises!

A FORETASTE OF WINTER 17-18, TO FULLY SAVOUR AT THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS FORUMS.

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03 AN ASSUMED SHINE Whether the shine of winter 17-18 plays on dazzle loudly and strongly, or in a more muted vein, it always does so gaily. Far removed from lost or out-dated splendour, it displays both a technical and a precious side. It infuses accessories with contemporary fantasy, with shot effects and micro-sequinned lacquered effects. At tanners, varnishes cheerfully permeate marked grains and incisings. In textiles, cottons are adorned with noble reflections, shirtings and suitings sparkle, laces and silks evoke molten metal.

Teseo (Fabrics, 5H17)

04 A WARM LIGHTNESS Winter is an invitation to snuggle up in warm and airy fabrics. Weightless fabrics with structured appearances, cashmere foams, mists of wool, downy fringes, chenille yarns mixed with wool in trimmings or vaporous fleeces at the furriers - it’s all about wrapping up in warmth. Everything is deceptively heavy and really cosy.

Europ-Marchini (Fabrics, 5M24)

01 Lanificio Caverni (Fabrics, 5L38-5M37)

Cim Italy (Accessories, 4C13-4D14)

02 A PROTECTIVE FINENESS It’s as if fabric were looking to be a substitute for skin. Synthetic and artificial fibres team closely with stretch, for knits and silkies with epidermal flexibility. Leathers become more refined, and are softened to the maximum. Embroidered trims are

impregnated with latex handles, and silicone yarns slip into ribbons, for smooth strength.

05 A JOYFUL EXCESS We’re seeing big in patterns. At all the decoration specialists, size is testing the limits. Whether placed on base fabrics, in huge flowers or outscale geometry, fantasy is “big”. Yarns also play on macro-counts, for woollens with a fuller thickness. An XXL volume right up into accessories, with large embossed labels and giant buttons and zips.

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Amaltea By Ingropelli (Leather, 3G13)

01 A SEDUCTIVE PERFECTIONISM This season there’s a search for the absolute in terms of low-key looks. The ultimate goal is to find what’s different inside the invisible. Added-value moves inside, and plains express themselves by the depth of their handles. Surfaces look smoothly perfect, in both leather and fabrics. Accessories are hidden, with invisible zips and snaps. Textile patterns are organised into obsessive, overly orderly structures.

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FORUMS DEDICATED TO FASHION INFORMATION ACROSS OUR SHOWS

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VIEWPOINTS

MANY CLIENTS LIKE PRECIOUS AND SHINY ARTICLES THAT PLAY ON SHADOW AND LIGHT. Our offer in this area is thus increasing. We interpreted shine across a range of proposals: shiny leathers, materials with a mirror effect, Swarovski elements, metallic screen printing, Lurex yarn, etc., for the look of little gleaming effects that are always quite flashy.»

IN LITTLE TOUCHES OR ALL OVER, IN THE SHADOWS OR SHOWY...SHINE IS AS MULTIFACETED AS IT IS ESSENTIAL.

Gianluca di Bordoni, Eddy Ricami Project, Accessories, 4G39

THIS SEASON, THE COUTURE HEART OF FABRICS IS SOMEWHAT FANTASTICAL AND COSMIC: metal springs out, yarns are cut to give them liveliness and energy.

We see fringed metallic canings that move in an almost animal way, like a fur made of plastic and metallic elements. Some aspects make me think of how metal was used in the 60s to transform a garment, but in a suppler, lighter way, for a new luminous and resolutely Giampietro Baudo, Editor in Chief, MF Fashion, Italy, JUROR, THE P.V. AWARDS 2016 futuristic approach.»

NEXT WINTER, WE ARE BETTING ON SHINE THAT COMES FROM A MIX OF FIBRES AND FINISHINGS. Combining laminations with plays on volume allows us to lend shine to knits, to give them reflections that only emerge in motion.

We also developed 3D-looking jacquards composed of metal fibres that shine from different angles. Our offer also includes knits made from mixes of shiny fibres, like rayon or cupro, and velour, which reflect light in different ways.»

John Gomes, Sidonios Knitwear,

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Fabrics, 5P18-5R13

WE ARE PRESENTING A NEW RANGE OF YARNS where shine plays a leading role, and is revealed by little flashy touches. We are also seeking contrast between very matt fibres and other very shiny ones, like metallic polyamides and polyesters.»

Francesco Della Porta, Pozzi Electa,

Yarns, 6H52

IN OUR COLLECTION, BRIGHTNESS IS EXPRESSED either in little doses, with Lurex for example, sometimes in contrast with matt aspects, either via the textile fibre itself with the use of noble and silky materials.

Among them is silk, of course, but also silk/wool or silk/cashmere blends.»

Alexandrine Viera-Gomes, Montagut Industries-Orfama,

Manufacturing, 6J42

OUR SHINE IS SUPER NATURAL AND CELEBRATES THE RICHNESS OF THE SKIN. We achieve this without any fakery, without adding varnished or metallic finishings. The lustre in our leathers comes from a combination of the tanning and a natural finishing.»

Silvia Rigatti, Conceria Stella,

Leather, 3E19

AUTUMN WINTER 17-18

“WE’VE BEEN TASKED WITH EXPLORING AND SHARING WAYS TO EXTEND THE LIFESPAN OF GARMENTS. ALMOST HALF OF CLOTHING’S ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT COMES FROM ITS USE. THIS PHASE IS A CRITICAL ELEMENT IN AN ECO-RESPONSIBLE FASHION APPROACH.” Andrès Franco, Associate Director, Communications at P&G Europe Fabric Care

PREMIÈRE VISION SMART CREATION SQUARE. HALL 5 NORTH – AISLE 5F

SMART CREATION SQUARE ECO-RESPONSIBLE APPROACHES

THE GOAL OF PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS ? TO PROVIDE A VISIONARY, MULTIMEDIA AND INFORMATIVE SPACE. Here, at the latest tangible outgrowth of the Smart Creation Première Vision program, exhibitors, designers, buyers and fashion brands can experiment and visualise eco-responsible advances in the creative fashion industry. They can see for themselves the issues tied to the new needs of a consumer who is ever more aware of the need to buy better and Smarter.

The space is thus a place for exchanges, information and documentation, with a decor - and an inspirational film - featuring a water theme. “The film obviously chooses to address the issue of water management, but also, more surprisingly, its embellishment and uses - all while bring out

the poetry and preciousness of this fundamental element,” explained Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision Fashion Director.

Because there’s nothing better than sharing experiences, the space is home to a cycle of Smart Talks (see the program, opposite).

These are open discussions and debates, delivered by small groups of experts in a series of quick, informative sound bites. Water and energy management, transparency of processes, systems and services are all on the program this season.

The Smart Creation Square also features a Smart Library, with some 80 selected products made by companies already committed to a Smart Creation approach. This initiative launched in September 2015 aims to enhance the ethical and eco-responsible advances of exhibitors at the Première Vision shows: recycling, carbon emission reduction, water use, waste mana-

gement, use of organic materials, social policies.

“Our role is educational. We want companies to embrace this source of added-value and open the markets of the future,” said Chantal Malingrey, Director of Marketing and Development at Première Vision.

In this vein, a complete assessment of garment care, baptised Smart Care, has been integrated into the project. The project’s initiators asked industry leader Procter & Gamble to provide their expertise and solutions in terms of enhancing and caring for products during this crucial phase of a garment’s life - which begins after it’s sale.

With this new space, Première Vision confirms its stance regarding responsibility and transparency, a lasting strategy that it means to develop with new follow-up initiatives each season.

SMARTTALKS: THEPROGRAM! Tuesday 13 September 1:30 pm • A dialogue about Water Preciousness & Innovation Nicola Marini ,Olimpias, Tekstil. Graziella Terraneo, PRYM, International. Kurt Schlaepfer, Bluesign®.

2 pm • P&G Science: Innovating to keep fabrics like new, with advanced cleaning and care in every wash.

Neil Lant, P&G, Research Fellow.

3 pm • A dialogue about Water Preciousness & Innovation Juan Pares, Textil Santanderina. Massimo Marchi, Ecotec® by Marchi & Fildi. Giuseppe Miroglio, Miroglio Group.

Wednesday 14 September 11 am • P&G Science: Innovating to keep fabrics like new, with advanced cleaning and care in every wash.

Neil Lant, P&G, Research Fellow.

12 pm • A dialogue about transparency Inka Apter, Eileen Fisher.

Simone Stelloni, Re.Verso™ by A.Stelloni, Collection by Mapel.

Hannes Parth, Frumat.

Federico Brugnoli, Spin 360 srl.

3 pm • Dialogue about Smart Care (in partnership with Procter & Gamble) Catarina Midby, H&M. Inka Apte, Eileen Fisher. July Coo, P&G. Thursday 15 September 11 am • A dialogue about energy Mauro Scalia, Euratex. Sergio Tamborini, Marzotto Group and Ratti S.p.A, Piero De Sabbata, ENEA. 12 pm • P&G Science : Innovating to keep fabrics like new, with advanced cleaning and care in every wash.

Neil Lant, P&G, Research Fellow.

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MY JOB

PASSEMENTERIE ENTREPRENEUR Anna Magrin, owner of Toschi Passamanerie, Première Vision Accessories (4E08), selected “hay gel” from the AW1718 colour range.

BEING VERSATILE. ISN’T A TALENT, IT’S A HABIT.

have a background as an architect, I have a PhD in architectural and urban design, and I worked for 10 years researching and teaching at a university. That’s the visible part of the iceberg.

But I had earlier experiences.

As a child and a teenager, I heard my parents talking with designers, choosing colours and designs, discussing prices of the items,

Just like always challenging yourself. They’re freeing too. I manage the company founded by my parents, but I am also involved in creating our trims, our cords and our braids; I oversee both what we are making and our marketing. My training was in a variety of fields. I

MY JOB

DESIGNERFROMTHE LANDOFSILK Eleonora Clerici, artistic director at Eleonora Clerici Studio, Première Vision Designs (5V57) chose “fake jade” from the AW1718 colour range.

THE COMO REGION IS FERTILE GROUND: You breathe in textiles on every street corner. I was born here, and studied here at the ‘University of Silk’, a reference in technical training for the industry. Did you know the first time I came to Paris was because I won a school contest, and the prize was a visit to Première Vision! Though I

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still design myself, over the past ten years my job has focused on coordinating the other designers in our studio, which specialises in prints for clothing and decoration.

Today, being creative is fundamental, but it isn’t enough. You have to know how to integrate your idea

interacting with technicians and supporting the workers: That’s where my experience comes from. You find that good ideas aren’t enough, you must transform those ideas into something concrete.

Production is also a creative process. You have to be able to modify existing techniques or invent new ones, be curious as you check and modify each result. Like everyone else, we’ve faced accelerated, increasingly complex time schedules. But it hasn’t been too hard. We’ve always proposed at least two complete collections and dozens of new articles each year. And we can modify our products on request, in shorter time frames. But let’s talk about the strong comeback of ‘Made In Italy’!

Everybody, I hope, has been happy to see how clients, especially European ones, want to shorten the supply chain, to better control product quality and meet ever-shorter deadlines!

into a commercial project.

Then be able to interpret a client’s taste. The exponential development of inkjet printing over the past decade has revolutionised the industry. When I began, I drew by hand directly on the fabric. Today, while drawing by hand remains essential, the composition and colours are perfected on a computer.

Hand-drawn and digital aspects work together. It’s all about creativity! And let’s not hide the reality: there are a lot of all-nighters in this industry. The time you have to realise proposals is always getting tighter; sometimes you have just a few hours to respond to requests. Which leaves no margin for error!

Even today, I still feel like I’m taking an exam when I present my collections to our clients. Each time it’s like taking a plunge... sometimes you get great feedback, other times you get a chance to re-examine what you’re doing.

Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/ Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 – Tel: 33(0)4 72 60 65 00 – Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09.

Email: info @premierevision.com – Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: B. Nottoli, N. Rodet, V.Tanto, G.Renna, S.Kossmann, RR FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM #WEAREPREMIEREVISION