Première Vision Paris / Daily News / Sept16 / Day 3

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THURSDAY Sakamoto Corp. (Fabrics, 3H79) Handle Prize leather PV Awards 2016

THE DAILY NEWS 15 SEPTEMBER 2016

LIGHTNESS?

AIR SENDS FABRICS FLYING HIGH THIS WINTER P.6

A NEW ECONOMIC BAROMETER

TO MEASURE ACTIVITY IN CREATIVE MATERIALS P.7 YARNS

Take a look at the new Cupro and Roica™ developments

by Asahi Kasei.

Hall 6, 6C62-6D63

FABRICS

Admire the wardrobe created by the winner of the 2016 Première Vision Grand Jury Prize at the Hyères Fashion Festival.

Hall 6, entry

LEATHER

Admire the creative inspirations and directions in fur and leather.

Hall 3, Trends Gallery

DESIGNS

Strike a pose in the pop-up studio in the Chameleon Bar and get your own animated flipbook.

Hall 5 North

ACCESSORIES

Note the highlights of technical components and leather materials for footwear. Hall 4, Shoe Focus

MANUFACTURING

Explore the exhibition and surprising objects by contemporary French artist Marie-Ange Guilleminot.

Hall 6 North

#WEAREPREMIEREVISION

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THE COLOUR TREND TASTING SEMINAR is entirely dedicated to the season’s colour range.

HALL 5, ROOM 501

SAMPLE CHOCOLATES FROM BELLANGER ‘Taste your style’ is the SUPRISEPV that whets your senses and invites you to savour artful decoration. Feathers, precious stones, heels, buttons...accessories that are a feast for the eyes and a delight to the taste. Accessories, HALL 4

INTHE

NEWS

SMART TALKS OF THE DAY

11 am • Energy management. Mauro Scalia (Euratex), Sergio Tamborini (Marzotto Group and Ratti), Piero De Sabbata (ENEA).

12 pm • P&G Science: Innovating to keep fabrics like new, with advanced cleaning and care in every wash.

Neil Lant, P&G, Research Fellow.

Première Vision Smart Creation Square.

Fabrics, HALL 5 NORTH, AISLE 5F

CLASSIC WOOLS WITH FANCY BACKS, DOUBLE LEATHERS WITHOUT BONDINGS AND TROMPE-L’ŒIL FEATHER POMPOMS. DO YOU HAVE ANY SURPRISES FOR US ?

Vasiliy Piacenza, Piacenza Fratelli “Double fabrics have been part of our DNA since the beginning. This year we chose to update some fabrics from our catalogue, which goes back to 1733, in double-face versions. Like this grey wool herringbone (850 g), with a back embellished with a floral jacquard motif. This splittable double weave plays on a contrast between a seriously neutral face and a highly colourful decorative back.”

Fabrics, 5J46-5K47

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Marie-Laure Coltée, Marcy - Côté plume…

“Marcy has elaborated natural feathers since 1966. Alongside our classic line, in a fancy evening style naturally associated with feathers, we are developing a more innovative offer. Our pompoms in trimmed feathers have a surprising

texture, at once dense and foamy, really playful. Our clients like this trompe l’œil effect both for footwear and leathergoods.”

Accessories, 4A11-4B12 Jose Galles Fuster, Inter Leather “For next season, we bet on reversible leathers where the skin side disappears, without having to use a bonding. It’s full grain leather on the face and back, perfect for leathergoods. We have it in blue-green and blue-pink versions, but any colour combination, contrasting or tone-on-tone, is possible.”

Leather, 3G71

TEXPRINT® AWARDED PRIZES TO MEGAN LILY CLARKE AND NEW ENGLISH TEXTILE DESIGN TALENTS. Her highly colourful designs are slightly reminiscent of the collages of Matisse, the timeless mood of David Hockney, and the Pop stylings of Patrick Caulfield.

Nonetheless, Megan Lily Clarke (Designs, 5X81) draws her inspirations from a very personal universe that she nourishes during each of her travels. The Morocco and Rome collections started from street photographs, which the designer reworked in gouache paint before creating

digital versions. The abstract geometric motifs inspired by Marrakesh are blended with cactus and animals drawn in flat tints of colour, in one overall vision at once classic and wild.

The naive and visionary talent of this young 23-year-old English woman garnered her the Texprint® Pattern Prize, sponsored by Liberty Fabrics.

(Fabrics, 5E22-5F21) in the presence of Martin Leuthold (Jacob Schlaepfer, Fabrics, 5L6-5M5).

AUTUMN WINTER 17-18

AGUIDEDTOUR

MAX’NCHESTER PETER TRAINOR AND ANNE MARIE MANIEGO, THE DESIGN DUO BEHIND THE US BRAND, SHARE WHAT CAUGHT THEIR EYE IN THE FORUMS.

Here we see lots of proposals and possibilities.

We’re looking at woollens, graphic herringbones, imposing houndstooths.

Woollens also moving into knits, into very soft jerseys.

The Forum, Fabrics, HALL 6, AISLES J-N

The cottony colours are so fresh! It’s as if the cottons were whispering to us. They’re very lovely, upbeat and bright. They’re what we ‘re looking for. We want men to break from their traditional fashion codes, even step outside of themselves. In shirtings, indigo variations are spreading. What we like is the way fantasy is multiplied in jeanswear: fancy wovens, jacquards, prints…

Tops & Shirts, Fabrics, HALL 5, AISLE E

LEATHER FASHION BREAKFAST

Trend concepts for autumn winter 17-18, as well as the key colours, products and materials of the season, for the leather and fur market. Today at 10:30 am.

Leather, First Lounge, HALL 3, FRENCH/ ENGLISH/ ITALIAN

.../...

HAVE YOU SEEN A DISCREET DAZZLE RUNNING THROUGH THE SHADOWS?

A furtive detail lights up a fabric or an accessory, like an unexpected spark emerging from dark foliage.

Iversen (Designs, 5X17) proposes nocturnal flowers drawn in watercolour lines that sprout from grounds in warm earth tones. Lartigianabottoni (Accessories, 4C04) plays on contrast in sparkling bi-mirror accessories in misty tones between grey and navy blue. Swarovski (Accessories, 4F33-4G32) interprets this same idea of secret dazzle with Black Rainbow, a dark black stone with oily reflections, harbouring at its heart all the colours of the rainbow. In fabrics, Olimpias (Fabrics, 6C5) is presenting a dark blue shirt-weight cotton jacquard, to which a coloured polyester yarn - white, green, red - lends a touch of light and a sensory feel. Low-key, luxurious, irresistibly chic.

UNSEEN SKINS Here’s where we understand how leather can appropriate the technical codes of textiles. Where we learn that finishes, visuals or dyes borrowed from the world of fabrics make for more resistant, relaxed, refined and colourful leathers.

And where we discover the tanners’ ecological goals: did you know that waste from the meat and fish industries are used to create new skins, like bar, salmon, Karung, and camel? Fascinating!

Leather, Incube Forum,

Première Vision Istanbul AW1718: 19 to 21 October 2016.

Denim Première Vision SS18: 2 and 3 November 2016 in Paris.

Tissu Premier Première Vision: 23 and 24 November 2016 in Lille.

Blossom Première Vision SS18: 13 and 14 December 2016 in Paris.

Première Vision NY SS18: 17 and 18 February 2017 in New York.

Première Vision Paris SS18: 7 to 9 February 2017 in Paris.

Swarovski (Accessories, 4F33-4G32)

FOR YOUR AGENDAS

HALL 3

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BEYOND FASHION, THE INTERIOR DESIGN WORLD IS ALSO LOOKING FOR GEMS AT PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS. THAT’S WHAT SAY THE NEW YORK DESIGNERS AND FINISHERS FROM NUPRIMARY, PLEASANTLY SURPRISED BY THIS NEW OPENING AND CONTACTS.

Designs, 5V35

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NEWS

FROM FANTASY STUDS TO VINTAGE ZIPPERS AND JEWEL-LIKE PANTS, THIS SEASON, PRECIOUSNESS IS LUXURIOUS, NEVER QUAINT. Looking for precious luxury without showiness, buyers applaud the rusty, crackled finishings and filtered nuances - from green to bronze, gold and pink – at Ramponi® (Accessories, 4G29-4H28), the Italian specialist in studs. For Lanfranchi-Lampo (Accessories, 4F23) this search for preciousness goes hand in hand with quality: the Éclair Super Lampo

DIVE INTO BLUE

This project started with an indigo fabric from Japanese weaver Showa (Fabrics, 6C8-6D5), notable for its cotton/wool blend.

Starting from this fine denim, students in fashion and textile at the École Duperré (Paris), guided by their professor Mathieu Buard, transformed the surfaces of jeans with inserts, wash-outs, engraved or printed decoration. A modern approach to ornamentation, using lacquered, ceramic and porcelain accessories from Dorlet (Accessories, 4F24), maker of metallic accessories. These textile developments propose an adventurous and experimental wardrobe, where manipulations lie at the very essence of garments.

Experiments in blue, Upper Jeanswear,

fastenings bring back a taste for the fabrication and galvanising methods of the 1940s, ensuring a unique tactile effect and shine.

For its part, Tessitura Clara (Fabrics, 5K18) created a denim/ precious hybrid by developing a collection of indigo jacquards woven through with a metallic yarn with an extremely soft touch. Its ornamental and geometric blue patterns emerge from the blue in little gold or coppery touches, so designers can imagine jewel-like jeans.

MAROC EXPORT CONFERENCE

Morocco, champion of Fast Fashion: confirmation and expansion by 2020.

A conference presented by Karim Tazi, president of Amith; Zahra Maafiri, director of Maroc Export (CMPE); Mohamed Tazi, director of Amith ; Mohamed Anass Tahiri, director of development for AMDI and in charge of Textile Ecosystems; David Bardin, sales director of Tavex.

Thursday 15 September. 10:30 am.

Fabrics, HALL 5, ROOM 504

HALL 6

GUIDEDVISIT

MAX’NCHESTER

(CONT. FROM PAGE 3)

These prints are influenced by the ‘20s and ‘30s, a little bit abstract. They really break from what we’ve seen in prior seasons. Like this one from Design Union (Designs 5W29). We want to incorporate prints into the inside of our jackets and our new coats.

Designs Forum, HALL 5, AISLE V-W

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We like the plaid checks blurried by the fabric texture for coats. It’s something we are thinking of for our coat collection.

As well as the two-tone double faces, to play with contrasting finishings.

Style Focus, Fabrics, HALL 5, AISLE M

01 FLAT? NEVER! Womenswear sides with menswear in a desire for eloquent surfaces. A good showing for macro yarns, for the texture they give to weaves, for sophisticated quiltings, and articulated sun pleats. Buyers also enthused over 3D embroideries with overstitching or volume appliqués.

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Proposte (Fabrics, 5K17) Pontetorto (Fabrics, 5M50-5N47)

01 Tissages Denis Fils (Fabrics, 5J19)

Bischoff Textile (Fabrics, 5L9)

02 SHINE LIGHTS UP EVERY CORNER Shine added to metallics hit the heights in the Best survey results. The women’s market wants metallo-plastics, all-over lamé, shimmering cut-yarns. Laces and embroideries are chosen like jewels, the first boasting interlaced gold yarns, the other set off with sequins. Preferences tend to tweeds scattered with light, while knits hit the sweet spot in smoother, lacquered and laminated versions, pushing sportswear towards more glamour.

WHAT ARE WOMENSWEAR BUYERS LOOKING FOR? A FEW DIRECTIONS EMERGING YESTERDAY IN THE AISLES, FROM THE PREMIERE VISION FABRICS SURVEY. ECOLOGICAL RESONANCE Led by buyers, ultra fantasy is starting to take an interest in sustainability. Because buyers increasingly check traceability, demand clean production means, and are sensitive to all eco-friendly initiatives. A way to stand out that may one day be as important as creativity?

03 FROM VELVETY TO HAIRY Everyone definitely wants cosiness.

Aspects catching the eye of womenswear buyers are exuberant, bouclé and visibly hairy. And not only in tweeds and woollens, but also in embroideries and jacquards. It’s also a good season for cut-yarns and fringes.

In silkies, requests take off for short hairs, lustrous pannés and velvets, casual chenilles and velours. In one sign of the times, flocking wins over buyers in overprints, softly lending luxury to silkies, lace and embroideries.

04 TOTALLY GRAPHIC Rebelliously, feminine markets caricature the menswear classics: giant houndstooths, electrified Prince of Wales, extroverted stripes and checks.

All that in jacquards, in embroideries, and endlessly sumptuous. For everyday, interpretations seek to be a little more toned down, with geometric but monochrome knit jacquards, obsessive tie prints, and extreme plays on interlocking and tessellated designs.

05 THE SUPPLENESS OF SOLIDITY There’s a paradox in what’s looked for: fabrics must be dense, but without any weight or stiffness. Which drew attention to wholly supple felted woollens and knits.

To well shrunken, dense, springy yet never dry crepes, sometimes with stretch for more pep. Even in decoration, this need for density leads to fuller, more firmly-set but comfortable embroideries.

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Dinamo Contemporary Fabrics (Fabrics, 6P7)

BEST THE

AUTUMN WINTER 17-18

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VIEWPOINTS ABOUT WOMENSWEAR FOR AUTUMN WINTER 17-18 WERE GATHERED AT THE WEAVERS

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VIEWPOINTS

WE SPECIALISE IN FINE AND LIGHT TECHNICAL TEXTILES. Some of our polyamides weigh only 26 grams per sqm! This quest for featherweights pushes us to innovate sustainably, with textiles ranging from 30 to 50 grams per sqm derived from recycled waste, and devoid of fluorocarbon products, despite their water-resistance, so they’re 100% PFC-free.”

FEATHERWEIGHT FABRICS, AIRY TEXTILES, MINIMAL THICKNESS: THERE’S LIGHTNESS IN THE AIR THIS WINTER.

OUR FRENCH DUCK DOWN is 80/20 (20% of feathers for 80% of down), making it one of the lightest on the market. By putting more or less fill in the garment, we transition from parkas to the blousons. This variable makes the quilting offer perfectly adaptable to weather changes, thanks to its ability to regulate body temperature. The lightness of the product will be further impacted by the choice of fabrics. Our elaboration of this combination of extra-light textiles and an ultra-volatile high-quality down enables us to lighten military garments, for example.”

WE QUILT PYTHON. Surprising, no? Step 1: refine skins to the max through a mechanical process. Next, the skins are placed on two layers of intermediate fabrics, with softening properties. Finally, a 3rd fabric is sewn with the other three elements as an underlayer. These textile layers combined with the refined skin lets us elaborate quilted skins that are less and less heavy.”

Matteo Ciceri, Pellami Ciceri,

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Leather, 3G19

John Eun, One Chang Material,

Fabrics, 6H18

THANKS TO A VERY OPEN KNIT, some of our cashmeres can attain weights of 230 grams per sqm. We also are betting on a breathing effect, with some extra fine Merinos.

The wool is then embroidered in floral patterns or jacquards, for example, for a textured and slightly quilted effect.”

Helen Morgan, Johnstons of Elgin,

Fabrics, 6S5

I LIKE TO LET SOME AIR INTO MY DESIGNS. I think out my compositions with a lot of background, and sometimes even surrounded by emptiness, which gives them quite a bit of depth. For the first time, I created hollowedout motifs this season.”

Sophie Pineau, Getex,

Manufacturing, 6U16

Briagëll Perret, Briagëll Perret,

Designs, 5V82

I AM INTERESTED IN THE VERSATILE OR EVEN HYBRID NATURE OF TEXTILES. Just because it’s winter we don’t have to be saddled down in huge outfits. A fabric that looks thick can actually be ultra -light to the touch! That’s what I hope for this season.”

Natasha Lenart, Director of product development at Victoria Beckham, PV Awards 2016 jury member

AUTUMN WINTER 17-18

“THIS BAROMETER INTRODUCED THE FIRST STANDARDS OF COMPARISON TO FINALLY ALLOW THE COMPANIES EXHIBITING AT PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS TO PERIODICALLY MEASURE THEMSELVES AGAINST GLOBAL TEXTILE AND LEATHER ACTIVITY.” Gildas Minvielle, Director of the IFM Observatory

“THE COMPANIES EXHIBITING AT PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS ARE DISTINGUISHED BY THEIR CREATIVE PRODUCT, AIMED PRIMARILY AT THE HIGH-END SEGMENT. THEY WILL FIND A VALUABLE INDICATOR OF THEIR MARKET’S EVOLUTION IN THE PREMIÈRE VISION IFM BAROMETER. IT WILL UNDOUBTEDLY CONFIRM THEIR STRATEGY TO STAND OUT FROM EMERGING MARKETS AND LOW-COST PRODUCERS.” Serge Piolat, President of Euratex

Première Vision is in a privileged position to measure and compare the economic activity of the textile and leather industries.

INCREASED PRODUCTION AND BETTER PERFORMANCES FOR THE EXHIBITORS HOW IS GLOBAL ACTIVITY IN THE WORLD OF CREATIVE MATERIALS CHANGING? WHAT ABOUT THE ECONOMIC ACTIVITY OF THE EXHIBITORS? THE ANSWERS FROM THE PREMIÈRE VISION BAROMETER. Creative fabrics stand out The merits of the positioning of Première Vision Paris exhibitors in terms of the market for materials with creative added-value have been confirmed. Exhibitors located in mature economies registered a 1.6% increase in production, largely surpassing Textile World Production, which declined by 1.1%.

Within mature economies, the activity of European businesses (- 2.8%) was less strong than that of companies in developed Asian countries (+ 5.9%), represented at the show principally by Japan and South Korea, and, to a lesser extent, by Taiwan and Hong Kong.

“Over the period,” said Gilles Lasbordes, Managing Director of Première Vision SA, “the decline in European production in terms of volume has largely been compensated, in spite of a difficult economic situation, by their performance in value, with turnover declining by only 1%.” European companies were able to offset declines in volume by a more favourable price mix. The performance of exhibitors from emerging economies (+ 9.8%) is more than two times higher than that recorded by UNIDO (+ 4.2%). If the Première Vision Textile Index

outperformed Textile World Production in its different components, but not overall (+ 2.1% versus + 2.8%), this is due to the overrepresentation of emerging countries in the benchmark indicator.

Conversely, the Première Vision Textile Index is very correlated to performance in mature economies, which are logically the most numerous at the Première Vision shows, dedicated to creative materials.

Sustained volume in leather production On the leather side, the production of European exhibitors (including Turkey) (+ 3.9%) registered an increase superior to that of the world (+ 0.9%). Sustained in the high-end and luxury areas, the change is even more advantageous when compared with UNIDO production in only the mature economies

THE PREMIÈREVISION BAROMETER Implemented as part of the IFM - Première Vision Chair, the first Barometer of the economy of creative materials compares the performance of Première Vision Paris exhibitors (textiles and leather industries) with their counterparts from around the world. It comprises two indexes, the PREMIÈRE VISION TEXTILE INDEX for the textile industry, and the PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER INDEX for the leather industry. These indexes are expressed in terms of changes in the percentages of production volumes. This allows exhibitors to compare their own business situation to that of their sector. Results are for the year 2015. The methodology consisted of comparing the production levels reported by exhibitors to the performances recorded quarterly by UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development).

(- 4.3%). However, after several years of a positive trend, the turnover of the European tanners is in decline (- 3.3% in euros). When will we see a measure of exhibitors’ performance by product categories? “Before considering it, we are still working on completing the collection of data from exhibitors. But already we are refining the categories by country and know-how,” says Gilles Lasbordes. ”The goal is to provide a unique benchmark that is updated every six months, and to trace the developments in our markets. Soon, we will be revealing the activity index of the 1st semester of 2016.”

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MY JOB

ENGINEER TANNER

2014. I worked in all the jobs, so luckily I know about all the steps involved in transforming skins, from the slaughterhouse to the sewing machine. My key mission today, I think, is conserving our know-how. Of course, there is the everyday stuff... Profitability is very stressful in our profession.

Management, or rather steering the process, is a very delicate task. Any problem can turn into a disaster. Our business is a kind of industrial artisanship: we don’t have the right to make mistakes and yet we are working on completely experimental processes. Not having total control is a very scary thing for a technician.

In addition, there are many constraints related to ecoresponsibility. But I like to remember that we, tanners and tawers, recycle waste in the food industry... to make a luxury product.

Jean-Charles Duchêne, CEO and Technical Director of Mégisserie Alric, Première Vision Leather (3G14), chose the colour “junky chick” from the AW1718 colour range.

JUNGLING TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS AND AESTHETICS. That’s the tanner’s daily challenge. Today’s luxury brands demand a lot from materials, sometimes at the expense of quality. Each skin is different, each shade is different, each customer is different. So we have to adapt and reinvent colours every day. And it’s when it’s time

to validate the colours we realize we all have a different way of seeing them!

I was an engineer in the aerospace industry when my father bought the tawer where he was director. I had already worked there in the summer, during my studies. I joined him in

MY JOB

MULTITASKING DIRECTOR Édouard Liffran, General Manager, Europe of 37.5® Cocona Natural Technologies, Première Vision Yarns (6G51), chose “mutant azure” from the AW1718 colour range.

THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW IN TEXTILES. For us, a fibre producer, it’s the 37.5®. A great technology that improves comfort and human performance. That means it impacts the way you work, you sleep, and your sports performance! This product is almost too good to be true. It can be mixed with

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any fibre or printed on any material. The important thing in my professional life?

The great moments that intersect. I am reminded of this brand that uses our product in all of its lines, and whose sales results prove

the added-value of our technology. Or the year when the European Space Agency invited us to be part of the Couture in Orbit project. And my 8 year old son, whom I surprised by explaining to his friends the principle behind 37.5®... they all seemed to get it and wanted to wear it!

I’m firmly convinced that creativity and people are the basis of everything. Every moment in the invention of a product is a sum of details made by people who think creatively. The key to success is to manage all these details in the best way. It’s extremely exciting to be at the heart of a textile revolution. And also, it keeps you young! At the first sales meeting, I found myself in the middle of a group of young people, like an old guy! We had a party together and the next morning at 8 am, they all had all the right questions about our new concept!

Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/ Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 – Tel: 33(0)4 72 60 65 00 – Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09.

Email: info @premierevision.com – Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: B. Nottoli, C. Desheulles, N. Rodet, Taneka, S. Kossmann, RR FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM #WEAREPREMIEREVISION