Extract from White Paper N°2 - Fashion and Sustainability by Première Vision

FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY

The keys to responsible sourcing with Première Vision

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INTRODUCTION

FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY #2 | The keys to responsible sourcing with Première Vision

Since the launch of its Smart Creation programme in 2015, Première Vision has worked hard alongside all players in the sector to build and conceive the fashion of tomorrow – one that is ethical, sustainable and more environmentally-friendly.

After a first round-up of the key issues facing the sector, this second volume of the Fashion and Eco-Responsibility White Paper takes a close look at innovative materials and concrete solutions for alternative sourcing options.

From natural to artificial fibres, via accessories, leather, denim and sport&tech, Première Vision gives you the keys to more enlightened sourcing.

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The Smart Keys: a series of helpful, practical articles to decode key eco-sustainability topics, and move towards more enlightened sourcing.

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Smart Creation, the podcast: a monthly exploration of the potential of sustainable fashion with guest experts sharing new ideas.

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Smart Talks: each season, a series of engaged conversations around the challenges of eco-responsibility, and the solutions and innovations put forth by textile professionals.

Getting informed thanks to Smart Creation Since 2015, Première Vision has been promoting the industry's sustainable approaches through its Smart Creation initiative. Its rich and complementary content analyzes the sector's major challenges and spotlights new values combining creativity, innovation and sustainability.

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FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY #2 | A look at the industry's major challenges with Première Vision

MANIFESTO

In the effort to balance pragmatism and frivolity, how do we reconcile sustainability and attractiveness?

Fashion is well on the road to change, and seeks a coexistence between strong design statements and social/environmental considerations, throughout a product's life cycle.

The benefits of virtuous design include:

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Respect for decent working conditions, in accordance with human rights, guaranteeing safety, health and a basic living wage.

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Traceable and transparent production operations throughout the sector.

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Finishes and dyes that favor mechanical processes or are inspired by the intelligence of nature for biomimetic innovations.

The selection of organic and recycled raw materials respecting biodiversity concerns and animal welfare.

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The guarantee of durability thanks to qualities tested for their tensile strength and resistance to pilling and abrasion.

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Compositions that promote circularity, by opting for single-material products or recyclable blends.

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Transformation processes favoring the reduction:

Anticipating a product's post-use environmental fate as of its creation, including the possibility to reuse, repair, recycle, or upcycle.

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• of water consumption, and treating wastewater using innovative technologies • of energy consumption, with the use of solutions emitting less CO2 • of chemical substances, from the first inputs to the finished product • of waste, and improving waste management.

A concrete and global measurement of environmental impacts.

As the fashion landscape continues to move into a hybrid world, respecting human and natural resources is a key cornerstone, and calls for a dialogue between the physical and virtual worlds in order to build a sustainable and desirable future.

CONTENT

FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY #2 | The keys to responsible sourcing with Première Vision

NATURAL FIBRES SMART KEYS: • A look inside the hidden face of cotton • Bast fibres: flax, hemp and nettle, the new El Dorado of responsible fashion?

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ECO QUESTION: Why is cotton so thirsty?

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FOCUS: What is a waterless product?

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PV PARIS CONFERENCE: European linen, the creative agri-sector working towards the ecological transition

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PODCAST: Smart Creation, the podcast. Episode 41

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ARTIFICIAL FIBRES SMART KEYS: What’s behind the seeming “naturalness” of cellulosic materials?

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ECO QUESTION: How to ensure viscose doesn’t contribute to deforestation?

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FOCUS: What do we mean by zero carbon?

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PODCAST: Smart Creation, the podcast. Episode 39

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SMART TALK FABRICS: Focus on the eco-responsible assets of Spring-Summer 23

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SPORT & TECH SMART KEYS: • Fashion and chemistry… a dangerous liaison?

• How to combine performance fabrics and eco-responsibility in sports?

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FOCUS: • What is a bio-polymer coating?

• What are the characteristics of bio-sourced synthetics?

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PERFORMANCE CODES

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PODCAST: Smart Creation, the podcast. Episode 32

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LEATHER

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LEATHER KNOW-HOW: • Innovative and sustainable leather finishing • The various types of sustainable leather tanning

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PERFORMANCE CODES

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FOCUS: • What is environmental management?

• How to ensure a finish has a reduced impact?

• How does tanning affect color?

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SMART DIGITAL TALK: A 360° vision of the latest eco-responsible developments

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PODCAST: Smart Creation, the podcast. Episode 27

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FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY #2 | The keys to responsible sourcing with Première Vision

DENIM DENIM KNOW-HOW: • Denim finishes with a reduced impact • Responsible denim dyeing solutions

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FOCUS: How can the environmental impacts of color be limited?

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SMART DIGITAL TALK: Denim Spring-Summer 23

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PODCAST: Smart Creation, the podcast. Episode 43

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PV PARIS CONFERENCE: From start-ups to scale-ups, building a sustainable color world

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ACCESSORIES SMART KEYS: • Ecological and ethical accessories • Towards ever more eco-responsible packaging

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FOCUS: • The Characteristics of a Bio-Based Plastic • The Keys to a Recycled Accessory • Eco-Certified Essentials

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ANNEXES Première Vision Performance Codes Smart Creation Podcasts Smart Keys

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FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY #2 The keys to responsible sourcing with Première Vision

NATURAL FIBRES 7

FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY #2 | The keys to responsible sourcing with Première Vision

NATURAL FIBRES 1. SMART KEYS • A look inside the hidden face of cotton • Bast fibres 2. ECO QUESTION Why is cotton so thirsty?

3. FOCUS What is a waterless product?

4. PV PARIS CONFERENCE European linen, the creative agri-sector working towards the ecological transition 5. PODCAST Smart Creation, the podcast. Episode 41

Explore the other chapters > NATURAL FIBRES > ARTIFICIAL FIBRES > SPORT & TECH > LEATHER > DENIM > ACCESSORIES

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SMART KEYS A look inside the hidden face of cotton From denims to poplins, voiles, jerseys and velvets, cotton lends itself to multiple constructions and is an integral part of our wardrobes. The world’s leading natural fiber, accounting for 23% of production, cotton has been used throughout the ages and consistently keeps pace with fashion trends.

Cotton’s been in the spotlight ever since the dawning of social and environmental concerns, but what’s its actual impact? And what opportunities are now available with the development of eco-friendly and socially-responsible cotton products?

Cotton cultivation: 3 major challenges Cotton farming poses many challenges.

Forced and child labor, irrigation, pesticides and chemical inputs are among the main issues.

Work conditions Cotton farming has a long history of forced and child labor. Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and China’s Xinjiang province remain particularly problematic areas. Progress on human rights may be taking place in some countries, but the nature of forced labor is multifaceted. While child labor is no longer a systemic problem, significant progress is needed to address inherited debts, government-imposed coercive labor and deceptive recruitments.

FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY #2 | The keys to responsible sourcing with Première Vision

NATURAL FIBRES 1. SMART KEYS • A look inside the hidden face of cotton • Bast fibres 2. ECO QUESTION Why is cotton so thirsty?

3. FOCUS What is a waterless product?

4. PV PARIS CONFERENCE European linen, the creative agri-sector working towards the ecological transition 5. PODCAST Smart Creation, the podcast. Episode 41

Explore the other chapters > NATURAL FIBRES > ARTIFICIAL FIBRES > SPORT & TECH > LEATHER > DENIM > ACCESSORIES

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Water management Cotton consumes a great deal of water at certain periods in its growth, and its sensitivity to water stress varies with its growing stage. The first weeks of flowering are a critical period, when a regular water supply must be ensured.

Irrigation guarantees against poor crop performance and can avoid the risk of inadequate rainfall. For producers, it has economic advantages by protecting, stabilizing and increasing the yield and also helps with the chemical treatment of the crops.

Over-irrigation is therefore common in conventional agriculture. It’s a major contributor to the run-off of water, nutrients and chemicals used for crops.

The use of synthetic phytosanitary products The substances used to facilitate and protect cotton cultivation have significant consequences. Pesticides are still often sprayed without masks or protective clothing and their toxicity has a severe impact on the health of workers.

The dispersal of inputs that accompanies excessive irrigation leads to runoff from the fields, which transports pesticides, herbicides and toxic fertilizers, polluting the surrounding bodies of water and adversely impacting the health of aquatic systems and individuals.

How can we address these issues?