Over the last several years, the city of Poznań has seemingly torn up and renovated its entire city centre, including the puzzling decision to resurface the market square the moment it reopened after the pandemic. In the midst of our own post-COVID rebound, we at IYP decided to take a similarly suspect course - and tear up everything we ever wrote about Poznań. After two years of research, rewriting and redesign, we are proud to be back with a guide to Poznań that - like the city itself - is improved in every way. With a larger, more readable design, this new guide distils the most ‘Poznanian’ experiences into succinct articles to help you set your itinerary, then walks you through the most interesting neighbourhoods, making sure you don’t miss their nuances. If your idea of a great trip is one that unfolds at its own pace and breaks you out of your online routine - this guidebook is for you.
As it’s our first issue after a protracted absence, some quick thanks are due - not only to the entire IYP team, but to the local businesses that support this project, and the City of Poznań itself. A loud shoutout also goes to local artist Noriaki for trusting us with his creation, The Watcher (p.7). And lastly, to you, dear reader, for believing in the type of travel that this guide encourages, and using it to immerse yourself in the moment.
Enjoy Poznań.
A Pennsylvania native, Garrett has been working to recreate the magic of his first arrival in Poland for IYP readers since 2008. He believes in good writing, local insight and that giving travellers the offline tools to explore independently is the best way to create meaningful connections between people and places. He is not on social media, and yet insists he is a real person.
PUBLISHER
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51 31-128 Kraków, Poland www.iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com
The Mars fountain on Poznań's Old Town Square (p.56). Photo by Maciej Tomczyński.
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
All content copyright IYP CIty Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher.
The brand name
In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.
Welcome to Poznań
Considered the birthplace of the Polish state, Poznań is one of the country’s oldest, most important and most intriguing cities. Shaped by shifting historical eras, the capital of Wielkopolska has emerged as a dynamic centre of Polish culture, commerce and identity. Let’s get you acquainted.
As Poland’s first capital and the site of its earliest cathedral, Poznań holds a unique place in the nation’s history. It was here on Ostrów Tumski (p.38) that Poland’s first rulers were baptised, laying the foundations of both the state and its Christian roots. Soon after, the city became a thriving medieval trade hub and later a Renaissance pearl - as seen in its peerless Town Hall (p.58).
Annexed by Prussia in the 18th century, Poznań was transformed into a military fortress and later a model imperial city under heavy Germanisation. It didn’t take: after WWI, the successful Wielkopolska Uprising (p.31) swung the region over to Poland and Poznań eagerly hosted the 1929 Polish General Exhibition - a showcase for the reborn nation (p.107).
Occupied by Nazi Germany during WWII, Poznań became one of the Reich’s last strongholds; heavy damage sustained during the 1945 Battle of Poznań required the city centre to be almost entirely rebuilt. In 1956, the city again made history as the site of the first major uprising against communist rule, cementing its reputation for resilience and civic pride.
Today Poznań’s history is hidden in its unique mix of Gothic, Renaissance, neoclassical, art nouveau and modernist architecture. Add outstanding infrastructure, lively student life, strong food culture and abundant recreation opportunities, and you have a confident, contemporary city with more to reveal below the surface. Poznaj Poznań and reap the rewards.
To better understand Poznań’s districts, refer to the map on the inside cover.
Poznań’s Districts
Old Town page 48
The historic heart of Poznań, laid out in the Middle Ages around a market square. Packed with beautiful architecture, fascinating museums, restaurants and lively bars - and perfect for exploring on foot.
Chwaliszewo page 13
Formerly an island, today this small historic area along a filled-in tributary of the Warta River ushers you east from the Old Town towards Poznań’s vibrant riverside - a must-visit in the warm months.
Ostrów Tumski page 38
The oldest part of Poznań, this peaceful district known as ‘Cathedral Island’ is connected with the earliest days of the Polish State and the Catholic Church. Tourist-heavy, but essential.
Śródka page 38
This quaint neighbourhood next to Ostrów Tumski dates back to medieval times, and is today a relaxing place for slow strolls and local gastronomy.
Poznań is full of street art, from full-scale murals to clandestine graffiti by artists like Someart, KAWU and Noriaki - all of whom have become synonymous with the city. Look for the icon on our maps, and keep your eyes peeled for Noriaki’s ubiquitous character ‘Pan Peryskop,’ aka The Watcher (above), on both the walls of the city and the pages of this guide!
City
Centre page 72
The broad areas outside the Old Town that were part of Fortress Poznań, and built up under Prussian rule in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Today this is the commercial and cultural core of the city.
Jeżyce
page 96
This area west of the train tracks was Poznań’s new high-rent district at the turn-of-the-century. Today it’s full of Art Nouveau, street art, trendy brunch spots, ethnic eateries and hip bars.
Łazarz page 104
South of Jeżyce, this area was shaped by the MTP Fairgrounds and military barracks. Today it’s an attractive residential district with ample green spaces and exciting gastronomy.
How to Use this Guide
Poznań In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, inspiration, tools and information you need to explore Poznań on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and truly connect with your surroundings.
Our guidebook primarily consists of two types of content: Essentials and District Tours
Essentials
Read these features for an overview of Poznań’s most essential sights, experiences, tastes and touchstones. Establish your priorities and plan
Page references lead you to additional or related info located elsewhere in the guide.
QR Codes lead you to our website when there’s more worth knowing than fits in print.
District Tours
Follow these to find all of Poznań’s most interesting
Choose your adventure the route based on your
correlate to the grid on district maps, or the greater Poznań map on the inside cover, so you can gauge distances and keep
Editor’s Picks
As you go through the guide, keep an eye out for these icons next to venues that we personally recommend for the following visitor profiles:
The Honeymooders
Romantic spots recommended for couples.
The Kinderguardian
Fun places designed for families and kids.
The Sophisticationer
Niche places for history buffs and culture hounds.
The Offbeatnik
Alternative, artsy or obscure places for urban adventurers.
8 Essential Sites & Experiences
A rich blend of history, culture, nature and gastronomy, Poznań offers infinite permutations of its best self to visitors. It’s enough to fill over 100 pages of a guidebook while only scratching the surface. Over the next several chapters we do our best to help you make your own itinerary, but for the TL;DR crowd, here’s a one-page synopsis of what you should make a priority in Poznań. Consider it a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable places to go and things to do.
1 See the Town Hall & Market Square
Lined with charming townhouses, museums and restaurants, Poland’s third-largest square features its most beautiful Town Hall, where two animatronic goats delight the crowds at 12:00 and 15:00. | Page 56.
2 Explore Ostrów Tumski
Also known as ‘Cathedral Island,’ it was here that not only Poznań, but the Polish state itself, was founded. A peaceful environment for discovering why the capital of Greater Poland is great indeed. | Page 38.
3 Eat a Croissant
Sink your sweet tooth into a St. Martin’s Croissant - a sugar-glazed delight filled with a white poppy seeds, nuts and dried fruit. Protected under EU law, this prized pastry is a proud symbol of Poznań. | Page 24.
4 Stroll Down to the Riverside
Despite not getting a district tour, don’t miss Chwaliszewo - a short walk through which leads you to the riverside and the rhythms of summer: beach bars, food trucks, outdoor games, live music and more. | Page 13.
5 Culture Crawl the Imperial Quarter
Hitler had a castle residence in the middle of Poznań?! Indeed, and today it anchors a unique district full of monumental cultural attractions, including museums, theatres, concert halls and parks. | Page 80.
6
Decode Your Own Enigma
In 1939, three Poznań students created ‘the theorem that won WWII’ and cracked the German Enigma code. Their legacy is honoured in a fun, interactive museum that combines history, puzzles and games. | Page 32.
7 Admire the Art Nouveau
Fans of Secessionist architecture will appreciate the neighbourhoods of Jeżyce and Łazarz, where affluent Germans built entire blocks of asymmetrical Art Nouveau townhouses in grand and ornate style. | Page 100, 102, 110.
8 Cycle through Citadel Park
Traces of Fortress Poznań’s central stronghold abound in Citadel Park - 85ha of hilltop green space full of gardens, trails, monuments and artwork, plus two military museums and several cemeteries. | Page 18.
Summer Vibes
With miles of riverside and lakeshore, plus acres of urban green space, Poznań offers a wealth of warm-weather attractions, high-season hangouts, and outdoor activities - many just beyond the centre and largely overlooked by tourists.
Aside from bridges and beach bars, Poznań's riverside is largely free of development. [Photo by Michał Kozar.]
Relax by the River
Before we get too ambitious, let’s begin with that most glorious of warm-weather activities: lazing about in the sun with a drink in your hand. Poznań is home to some great beer gardens, but the best of them are located right on the river. In fact, much of the Warta riverside could be classified as a beer garden thanks to designated drinking zones along the water, where those of age can consume alcohol in the open. These spacious areas are clearly marked on maps along the riverside, and large bins keep things tidy. As such, you’ll find locals sunbathing, picnicking, grilling and hanging out all up and down the grassy banks of the river in summertime.
KontenerART
That said, there’s no need to BYOB - Poznań’s riverside provides all you could want in terms of food, drinks and entertainment. A short walk straight west from the market square brings you to Chwaliszewo, a small historic neighbourhood that once sat on an island between the Warta and one of its offshoots. At the end of Woźna Street, a former waterway has been filled in to form a lovely park with a playground (J-7), a charming stroll through which leads directly to KontenerART - Poznań’s most popular riverside hangout. With river views and a festival atmosphere, this vast beach bar offers food trucks and games (cornhole, mini-golf), deck chairs, bean bags, and a full schedule of live bands, DJ sets and other events. Only 10mins on foot from the market square, KontenerART is a great place to relax in the afternoon, and a refreshing evening alternative to the bars and clubs of the Old Town. K-7/8. Open 13:00-01:30; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-01:00.
Berdychowskie Footbridges
Boosting the allure of the riverside is the brandnew pedestrian and cycling crossing just beyond KontenerART, connecting Chwaliszewo to Berdychowo, via the southern tip of Ostrów Tumski. Actually consisting of two bridges - one 165m and the other 117m in length - this much-needed piece of infrastructure not only gets students to
the University of Technology more quickly, but has become a popular place for romantic walks. Designed with a central cycling lane and wide pedestrian paths, the bridges include benches and other architectural elements that invite lingering, especially when street musicians set up along the way. For casual strollers there isn’t much on the other side, but if you have a bike, Lake Malta (p.14) is only minutes away. | K-8.
Ogród Szeląg
If you don’t have a bike, another way to get around the river is by water tram (tramwaj wodny). While certainly not efficient, and perhaps not even that reliable, from mid-May until the end of August this affordable and scenic service will take you directly from the shore at Chwaliszewo to our favourite riverside hangout - Ogród Szeląg.
Essentially a container restaurant hidden in a partially untamed garden that reaches down to the water, Ogród Szeląg is far more intimate and low-key than Poznań’s other riverside bars. Serving quick meals, plus a wide range of drinks, it’s the natural setting of hammocks among the leaves that enchants us, especially in the evening when the lights come on. If you’re lucky you might catch a concert on their floating stage.
L-1, ul. Ugory 97. Open 14:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-22:30.
Klub Na Fali
If your vibe is more beach party than garden oasis, head south of the Królowej Jadwigi Bridge to find Poznań’s biggest beach bar. Klub na Fali successfully creates the exotic atmosphere of a tropical island resort with its marine colours, palm trees and 1000m2 of sand. By day it’s a great place to take the kids, with a playground and other attractions, plus a big food hall with above-average grub. Things get wild on weekends, however, with a full slate of adults-only events maximizing the sexy mood of warm summer nights. Easy to get to, it’s only a short walk from the ‘AWF’ tramstop.
J-10/11, ul. Piastowska 40. Open 14:00-22:00; Fri 14:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.
2Family Fun at Lake Malta
Poznań owes its very existence to the Warta River, but it’s also surrounded by lakes, of which Malta is the most central and accessible. Formed in 1952 by damming the Cybina River, this 64ha lake is one of Poznań’s principal recreation areas, featuring a world-class regatta course, water sports facilities and numerous family attractions. Located just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the Old Town, if you’re looking to decompress or have fun with the kids, head to Malta.
Maltanka Railway
At the northwest corner of the lake, near the ‘Rondo Śródka’ tramstop, you’ll find the charming half-timbre station house of the ‘Maltanka’ minirailway. Pleasing the public since 1956, this is one of the last 600mm narrow-gauge railways in Poland. Pulled by vintage locomotives, this seasonal attraction is not only fun for kids and rail buffs, but also one of the most practical ways to get to the New Zoo. The 4km route includes several stops; trains depart every 30mins, with the last return from ‘Zwierzyniecka’ (near the zoo) at 17:30 on weekdays, and 19:00 on weekends. M-7. Tickets 18/12zł.
Maltese Baths (Termy Maltańskie)
Hop off the mini-railway at the ‘Ptyś’ stop to visit Poznań’s premier water park. This modern facility uses geothermal water and features three distinct
zones: Sports Pools (including an Olympic pool with a 10m diving platform), Sauna World (including a full spa and wellness treatments) and the Water Park. The latter offers a dozen water slides, wave pools, jacuzzis, obstacle courses, playgrounds, an outdoor beach and more, making it one of the city’s top all-ages attractions. P-8. Water Park open 09:00-23:00.
New Zoo
Located in the forest just east of the lake, jump off at the Maltanka’s last stop (‘Zwierzyniec’) for Poznań’s massive 120-hectare ‘New Zoo.’ In fact, this zoo is so big it has its own mini-railway inside. Not to be confused with the ‘Old Zoo’ (p.98), the New Zoo is home to over 2,000 animals, wooded trails, a stream, several ponds, and naturalist habitats. History buffs can explore the underground passages of Fort IIIpart of Poznań’s 19th-century fortifications, located in the centre of the zoo (additional ticket required).
Open 09:00-19:00. Admission 45/30zł; 55/35zł weekends.
Malta Ski
Located on the lake’s south shore, in summer this small ski slope transforms into an outdoor amusement centre, featuring an alpine slide, alpine coaster, mini-golf, swing carousel, inflatables zone and more; most of these attractions require tickets and are aimed at younger kids. Nearby is an artificial beach and outdoor playground.
We really can’t overstate how much more of Poznań you can explore with a bicyclewhether you bring your own, get an e-bike through the Bolt app, or rent one locally (p.36). Chief among the city’s cycling highlights is the ‘Wartostrada’ - a scenic, paved loop of about 13.4km, tracing the banks of the Warta and Cybina rivers from Lech Bridge in the north to Przemysła I Bridge in the south. Flat and smooth, the entire route can be completed in about 2 hours at a relaxed pace. Along the way you’ll enjoy riverside views and spot major landmarks like Poznań Cathedral (p.44) and Porta Posnania (p.41), but also discover a string of riverside bars, beaches and food trucks (p.13). As such, a ride along the Wartostrada offers both the satisfaction of physical activity and the temptation of a pub crawl. Choose your rewards wisely.
In lieu of the entire loop, hop on the Wartostrada heading north to get to Citadel Park (p.18), or extend your ride east with a 5.5km loop around Lake Malta. For a bit of perspective, take a look at the map on the inside cover - you’ll see the Wartostrada clearly marked.
[Photo by Małgorzata Cieślak.]
Beat the Heat at Lake Rusałka
While Malta gets most of the glory, lesser-known Lake Rusałka - northwest of the centre (and just off our map) - offers something Malta doesn’t: the chance to actually take a dip. This 36.7ha reservoir becomes Poznań’s most popular spot for swimming and sunbathing each summer, with its north shore boasting an artificial beach, lifeguards and a small pier. Like the city’s riverside hangouts - but with water access - Rusałka’s beach zone includes snack and drink bars, playgrounds, a grill area, beach volleyball courts, kayak rentals, and a big outdoor stage that hosts concerts every Thursday from 19:30-22:30 (May to August). Best reached by bike or rideshare, on unbearably hot days it’s worth the trip, but expect crowds.
Haunting History
Beyond its centrally-located beach, Rusałka is surrounded by peaceful forests - ideal for hiking, cycling and nature-watching. These woods harbour a dark history, however - evidence of which can be found in several memorials hidden off the unpaved trails. Lying along the outer ring of Poznań’s 19th-century defenses, fortress remnants can be found at the bottom of the lake and in the
woods to its north. Still standing to the south, however, is Fort VII. In 1939 it became the first Nazi concentration camp on Polish soil, and in 1943, its prisoners provided the slave labour that created the lovely lake you see today. Estimates of how many people were executed in the vicinity range from a conservative 4,500 to a terrifying 20,000. Today Fort VII houses the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.32), where you can learn more about Poznań’s wartime history.
Botanical Gardens & Sołacki Park
At its heart, however, northwest Poznań is known for its beauty and tranquility. Between the lovely University Botanical Gardens - located over 22ha just south of Lake Rusałka (open 09:00–20:00, free entry), and idyllic Sołacki Park (C-3) - which borders the lake on the east, this area could almost be considered a garden district. With the Bogdanka River passing through its duck ponds and charming bridges, Sołacki is widely considered Poznań’s most romantic park. Pack a picnic or book at table at Port Sołacz - a Michelin restaurant in a historical pavilion from the 1911 East German Exhibition (p.106) - and discover Poznań’s picturesque side.
Picnickers at Lake Rusałka.
Festivals & Events
Poznań’s culture calendar hits high gear in the summer - check our website to see what’s on.
Fine Dining Week
July 1 - August 10
During this ongoing culinary event Poznań’s most exclusive restaurants offer multi-course tasting menus at a special fixed price. To take advantage, go to finediningweek.pl, select a restaurant and make a reservation.
Animator Film Festival
July 5-13
Poznań becomes a centre of animation for 9 nine days in July, with over 300 film screenings taking place across town. What’s more, the international entries compete for a shot at an Oscar nomination.
Bittersweet Music Festival
August 14-16
In its inaugural year, this outdoor music festival is showcasing a mix of local and international stars on multiple stages in Citadel Park, including Post Malone, Empire of the Sun, Nelly Furtado and Taco Hemingway.
Festival of Good Taste
August 14-17
For four days this massive food fair turns Plac Wolnośći into a culinary bazaar. Expect hot dishes you can try on the spot, regional beer and alcohol, live music, culinary shows, workshops and more.
Festival of Good Taste
Explore Citadel Park
Presiding over Poznań from atop Winiary Hill, just north of the Old Town, this incredible 100-hectare (247 acres) park dwarfs all others. It was here that the Prussians built the central element of the city’s defenses in the mid-19th century - a massive polygonal fortress with thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks and even a moat. Despite the decades of effort that went into its construction, ‘Fort Winiary’ never saw battle, instead serving as a prison before achieving infamy as the final Nazi stronghold during the 1945 Battle of Poznań.
Obliterated by the Soviet siege, the fort was mostly dismantled, contributing its bricks to post-war rebuilding efforts. In 1962, the site became the chummy park of ‘Polish-Russian Friendship,’ and was only renamed after the fall of the regime. An intriguing mix of landscaped gardens, military history, public art and recreation space, the park features a popular Rose Garden, and its meadows host massive summer music festivals. Perfect for relaxing, reflecting or getting lost, you really need a bike to explore all this park has hidden within.
Museums
Remnants of Fort Winiary are easy to spot throughout the park, including two museums. Inside a preserved viaduct near the south entrance is the Museum of the Poznań Army, focusing on 1939 September Campaign. At the park’s centre, the Museum of Armaments displays weaponry with a special focus on the 1945 Battle of Poznań, plus a large outdoor exhibition of military vehicles and aircraft. One ticket covers both museums. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł; Tue free.
British Military Cemetery
Of the park’s several military cemeteries, the Commonwealth Cemetery - located near the south entrance - draws particular interest. Among the hundreds of British servicemen buried here are several involved in the famous Stalag Luft III POW camp escape - a feat depicted in the 1963 film, ‘The Great Escape.’ Keep your eyes peeled for Squadron Leader Roger Bushell - the mastermind behind it (renamed ‘Bartlett’ in the film). | H-4.
A midnight circus of food, music and mischief, Nocny Targ Towarzyski (The Social Night Market, or NTT) is one of Poznań’s most intriguing, edgy and alternative weekend party destinations. Located well off the tourist trail in a former railway maintenance yard south of the centre, NTT blends the energy of urban Asian street life, Berlin’s offbeat clubbing scene and Poznań’s own youth culture. Laid out over several zones, enter the illuminated gate into ‘Palm Beach’ - a sandy openair food market with tropical trees, pop-up bars and street food from around the globe. Further on, a large Chinatown-style gate ushers you into a busy alleyway of red tasselled lanterns, neon lights and graffiti art that feels like an ideal shooting location for a straight-to-streaming ‘Blade Runner’ knockoff. Inside a massive brick warehouse, DJs demolish the decks as hundreds of dancers dodge lasers, while others chill on the mezzanine or sit tangled together in low-lit corners. Enter a kitsch door in the corner of the courtyard to discover an
additional 400m2 dancefloor (Lava Klub) pulsing with underground electronic beats below this one. With name-brand DJs and raves that rage until dawn, NTT should certainly excite fans of electronic music, and offers a gritty alternative to clubbing in the Old Town. Do note that the crowd here is very young, especially the later it gets. That said, NTT is also a relaxed early-evening destination for exotic eats and colourful cocktails, and civilised daytime activities range from yoga and aerobics to stand-up comedy and seniorsonly afternoons. In fact, each Sunday from 11:00 to 18:00, ‘Palm Beach’ hosts a family-friendly market with workshops, culinary demos, and kids’ activities. Check their socials to see what’s on.
Located right near the ‘Kolejowa’ tram stop, getting there isn’t difficult, but you’ll need a rideshare home. Entry is usually free early on, but prices rise as the night heats up.
ul. Kolejowa 23. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-05:00; Sat 14:00-05:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Mon.
Ambassador of Wine & Cuisine in Poznań
Concordia Taste is a unique place on the culinary map of Poznań, which pairs Polish wine with Polish comfort food, as reinterpreted by ace Chef Adam Adamczak. Familiar dishes and traditional ingredients take on exciting new possibilities in Adamczak's modern creations, which can be enjoyed via the restaurant's lunch proposals - inspired by different regions of Poland, via the regularlychanging and seasonally-updated a la carte menu, or via elaborate tasting menus that evoke a culinary journey to specific and special moments, places and times.
Concordia Taste in Poznań has specific hours for when their lunch and à la carte menus are available.
MON - THURSDAY
13:00 - 16:00
Lunch Menu, Á la carte Menu
17:00 - 21:00
Á la carte Menu
An embassy of Polish flavours and wines, Concordia Taste also boasts the largest collection of Polish wines in the world - a collection which continues to expand and improve. The cuisine is based exclusively on local products from friendly suppliers, and the kitchen follows a zero-waste philosophy. Located in a historic building next to the iconic Bałtyk high-rise (which is exceedingly easy to access by tram), the modern post-industrial interiors have been recently renovated, and you can dine in the atmospheric garden, full of sun and greenery, in the warmer months.
FRIDAY
13:00 - 16:00
Lunch Menu, Á la carte Menu
17:00 - 22:00
Á la carte Menu
SATURDAY
14:00 - 22:00
Á la carte Menu
Flavours & Spirits
When it comes to travel these days, gastronomy is just as important as sightseeing. Poznań’s culinary rep has been on the rise of late, taking a leap forward in 2023 when it became only the third Polish city included in the Michelin Guide. Get to know the flavours of Poznań by working through our edible itinerary and to-do list of tipples.
Regional Tastes
Noble traditions, agricultural roots and centuries of regime change have resulted in the blend of Polish, German, Czech and Jewish influences that make up Poznań’s unique culinary profile. Here are five essential tastes that have become synonymous with the city of Poznań. For advice on where to try them, see the box on p.27.
1
Pyry z Gzikiem
2
Szagówki & Szare Kluchy
In a tight race with cabbage for the crown of national vegetable, potatoes (‘ziemnaki’) are synonymous with Poland, but nowhere are they so celebrated as in Poznań. Not only does the humble spud have its own local museum (p.33), it has its own name in the local dialect - pyra - which you can cheeklily use in reference to Poznaners themselves.
Poles have invented myriad ways to prepare and consume ‘pyry’ (vodka, anyone?), but in Poznań they are traditionally baked in their skins and served with ‘gzik’ - a topping of soft quark/ cottage cheese mixed with sour cream and chives, and sometimes spices, diced radishes and other upgrades. This simple, affordable dish can be found as an appetiser, and sometimes even a main course, on the menu of almost every Polish restaurant in town, while some eateries specialise in jacket potatoes with a wide range of toppings.
What can you do with leftover potatoes…? If you said ‘dumplings,’ you gave one of many correct answers. Poznań has its own take on this starchy side dish that’ll stick to your ribs. ‘Szagówki’ are mashed potatoes mixed with flour, eggs and salt, then formed into rolls, sliced into pieces and boiled again. Known as ‘kopytki’ across most of PL, the local name comes from the way they are cut diagonally, or ‘na szagę’ in the local dialect.
‘Szare kluchy’ translates to ‘grey dumplings,’ which is the least appetising colour in gastronomy, but also the colour that raw potatoes turn after you shred them - the first step to making this popular peasant dish. Add eggs and flour, form them into lumps and boiland you basically get a more dense, grotesquelooking version of szagówki. Both types of dumplings are commonly served across Poznań with roasted meats, gravy or goulash.
Pyra z Gzikiem from Pyraland.
Szare Kluchy from Hyćka. Szagówki from Pyraland.
3 Kaczka po Poznańsku
It’s not all peasant fare in Poznań, however. This was one of Poland’s first royal capitals after all, and the nobility were particularly fond of feasting on duck (kaczka) and goose (gęś). ‘Poznań-style duck’ consists of roast duck served with apples, sauteed red cabbage and steamed yeast dumplings. A meal fit for a king, you’ll find it on the menu of almost every traditional restaurant in town. Don’t be surprised to also see duck stuffed in pierogi, or standing in for other meats in popular dishes around Poznań.
4
Czernina
Not one’s to be wasteful, locals also traditionally used duck to make czernina - a soup made of bone broth, duck blood and dried fruit. Known as ‘black soup,’ in the 19th century this dark dish was served to suitors whose marriage proposals had been rejected by the parents of the intended. Hardly subtle, it’s perhaps not surprising that the soup’s popularity has dipped prodigiously in modern times. Some unsolicited advice: go ahead and bravely order a bowl for yourself, but don’t order for your partner.
5 Rogale świętomarcińskie
Need a palette cleanser? Try a St. Martin’s croissant - Poznań’s most popular sweet treat, street food and city symbol. These rich, crescent-shaped pastries are filled with a sweet paste made of white poppy seed, almonds, dried fruit and candied peel, glazed with sugar and topped with chopped walnuts. Popularised in the 19th century, today they are a point of local pride, and their production is fiercely protected. In 2008, St. Martin’s Croissants received the EU’s ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status, meaning only certified local bakers can offer official ‘rogale świętomarcińskie.’
Traditionally eaten on November 11th to celebrate St. Martin’s feast day, over a million rogale are consumed just for that event. The rest of the year they are a bit of a tourist confection, and their prices reflect that. Found in most local bakeries, rogale are often sold by weight, and you might be a bit shocked that they cost anywhere from 20-40zł for a single treat. They are filling, however, and once you’ve tasted one, you might be hooked. If you’re craving more, you can visit the Poznań Croissant Museum (p.33) and bake your own, which is honestly not a bad value.
Roast duck from the Hyćka restaurant.
Czernina from the Hyćka restaurant.
National Dishes
We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention some of the traditional dishes most associated with Poland. Everyone knows ‘pierogi’ (stuffed dumplings) and ‘kotlet schabowy’ (breaded pork cutlet), so here are some staples of the national diet that may not be quite as familiar. Smacznego (enjoy your meal)!
1 Barszcz
A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘z krokietem’), with mini pierogi floating in it (‘z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages, it’s difficult to find a bad cup of barszcz, so make sure you return home with bloody beet stains on at least one of your shirts.
2 Bigos
Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, pork, sausage, onion, mushrooms, plums, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
3 Gołąbki
Translating to ‘little pigeons’ for reasons perhaps best left unknown, this popular dish could be described as a ‘cabbage enchilada’. In lieu of a tortilla, the filling of rice, onion and minced pork (though vegetarian versions are also common) is rolled up inside large boiled cabbage leaves, then baked or steamed and topped with tomato or mushroom sauce. Better than it looks or sounds; in fact, they’re the only pigeons we like.
4 Golonka
This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.
TASTE THEM HERE
While many of Poznań’s most upmarket restaurants offer a creative, contemporary take on Polish cuisine, here are some favourite places known for their regional specialties and more traditional Polish home-cooking.
Hyćka
L-6, Rynek Śródecki 17 (Śródka).
Tumska
K-6, ul. Ostrów Tumski 5A (Ostrów Tumski).
Bamberka
H-7, Stary Rynek 2 (Market Square).
Ratuszova
I-7, Stary Rynek 55 (Market Square).
Wiejskie Jadło
I-7, Stary Rynek 77 (Old Town).
Pyra Bar
I-8, ul. Strzelecka 13 (City Centre South).
Modra Kuchnia
D-6, ul. Mickiewicza 18/2 (Jeżyce).
5 Placki Ziemniaczane
These savoury, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes, and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.
6 Żurek
It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek - a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.
Must-try Tipples
Stereotyped as a nation of vodka drinkers, Poland claims to have invented the distilled beverage back in the Middle Ages. Today they produce some of the world’s best brands, but beyond the straight stuff lies a surprising variety of flavoured vodkas worth trying. What’s more - Poles now actaully drink more beer than vodka, boosted by a recent craft beer boom. Na zdrowie (cheers)!
1 Hyćka
A traditional product of Wielkopolska, this delicate elderberry flower liqueur is known for its mild, sweet taste, delicate aroma and health benefits, which include strengthening the immune system and improving metabolism. Śródka’s ‘Hyćka’ restaurant (L-6, Rynek Śródecki 17) - where they make their own - is the place to try it, or buy some for your liquor cabinet. They also offer delicious elderflower syrup, which can be added to teas and lemonades.
2 Grodziskie Beer
Originating from Grodzisk Wielkopolski - just 40km west of Poznań - this uniquely Polish style of beer dates back to at least the 14th century. Light and low in alcohol, grodziskie is a smoked wheat beer known for its golden hue, crisp carbonation, and subtle smoky flavour. Popular across Poland until WWII, the style has seen a revival in recent years and now features in the portfolios of many local breweries. Although perhaps an acquired taste, give it a try while in town.
3 Lech Lager
The beverage most associated with Poznań is undeniably Lech - one of Poland’s most recognisable beer brands, and sponsor of the local football side. Brewed at a modern facility near Lake Malta since 1980, Lech is a bland, Euro-style pale lager that is hardly distinguishable from other mass-market beers like Carlsberg and Heineken. Although highly drinkable, it’s no craft beer, and the main reason we mention it here is because it’s ubiquitous.
4 Żołądkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach’ vodka, this digestive elixir gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Aged with herbs and spices, the original orange label Żołądkowa (there are many varieties) has an amber hue and sweet spiced taste. Incredibly palatable, order a double on ice and sip like a sophisticate.
5 Żubrówka
Known to many as ‘bison grass vodka,’ this popular brand has been flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle) since the 16th century. Faint yellow, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle floral taste with traces of almond and vanilla, drink it straight or combine it with apple juice.’
6 Wiśniówka
Dangerously easy-to-drink, this cherryflavoured vodka is popular with students, pensioners and tramps alike. In dive bars, a splash of grapefruit juice, or even Tabasco, is sometimes added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. However, artisanal varieties have now popped up in Poznan: keep it classy in Pijana Wiśnia (H-7, Stary Rynek 66) and Wiśniewski (ul. Wrocławska 21), where you can bring souvenir bottles home.
Local Craft Beer
Poznań has always had a strong brewing tradition, with the Hugger Brewery (p.90) dominating the city centre until WWII, and the mass-market Lech Brewery still operating on its outskirts. Today you can drink beers brewed on-site in the market square’s classy Brovaria brewpub (H-7, Stary Rynek 73-74), or City Park’s spacious Ułan Brewery (A-10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26); both offer great food in addition to fresh beer.
Excellent breweries located within 30km of Poznań include Golem, Sady, Moczybroda, Harpagan, Szreniawa and Nieczajna. Also keep a lookout in local pubs and supermarkets for the ‘Poz-naj’ line of beers, as well as nearby Browar Za Miastem’s large portfolio of craft beers.
DRINK IT HERE
To know exactly what’s on draught in each of the city’s multi-tap pubs, visit ontap.pl.
There’s no better place to learn about Poznań’s history, culture and character than its many museums. Although too numerous to list here, scan the code for a full online directory. What follows is a selection of venues - both obligatory and obscure - that we consider of most value to visitors. Note that some museums and galleries are detailed in the District Tours.
Poznań’s Most Essential Museums
Are they the best? That’s debatable, but they are certainly the most representative. These are the museums you can’t tell the story of Poznań without.
1 Porta Posnania
Of all of Poznań’s museums, this is the one that the city most wants you to visit. Tracing the history of the area from medieval times to the present, it emphasises Poznań’s vital role in the birth of the Polish state. More on p.41.
2 Poznan National Museum (MNP)
The main branch of the city’s largest cultural institution, the Gallery of Painting & Sculpture boasts a strong collection of Polish and European art, and frequently hosts highprofile temporary exhibitions. Across several galleries, the history of Polish art is charted from the 16th century to today, with standout sections on 19th- and 20th-century works. Ancient and Medieval Art have their own wings, while other highlights include Poland’s largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbarán and Ribera), and a recently recovered painting by Monet, stolen in 2000. It’s a lot to take in, so set priorities. Visiting time: 3hrs. More on p.75.
H-7. Al. Marcinkowskiego 9. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł, Tue free.
3 Museum of Poznań (Old Town Hall, MNP)
Located in Poznań’s most iconic and beautiful building - the Town Hall - this branch of the National Museum tells the story of Poznań and its people from the 10th-century to the present via a litany of historical objects, including the city’s original pillory (p.58) and the Soviet star once affixed to a massive obelisk in Citadel Park. Currently limited to two floors due to restoration works, this will be a major attraction when it fully re-opens in 2027. Details on p.59.
4 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum
One of the most pivotal events in Poznań’s history, the armed Wielkopolska Uprising of 1918-19 liberated the region from German rule after WWI, joining it with the newly independent Polish state. Of the many, many uprisings throughout Poland’s history, this is the rare one that actually succeeded. As such, it is a very big deal - particularly after decades of struggle, including a failed uprising in 1848. This museum tells the heroic story of what some have called ‘the longest war in modern Europe.’ Currently housed in the former Guardhouse on the Old Town Square (p.61), construction is actually underway on a new site that will be ten times larger north of the Old Town. Set to become one of Poznań's top attractions in 2026, enjoy this compact version while you can. Visiting time: 40mins.
H-7, Stary Rynek 3. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10; Tue free.
5 1956 Uprising Museum
One of Poznań’s less fortunate uprisings, this museum tells the story of the first armed protest against Poland’s communist regime. On June 28, 1956, some 100,000 workers took to the streets demanding better conditions, but when the protest turned violent, it was met with tanks and gunfire. Around 100 people were killed in the brutal crackdown now known as ‘Black Thursday.’ Located in the basements of the Imperial Castle (p.83), this museum's immersive, modern exhibits trace the social tensions that led to the uprising, the day’s tragic events, the trials that followed, and the regime’s efforts to suppress the truth. It’s a powerful, sobering and expertly-presented experience. Recommended.
F-7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:0016:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł; Tue free.
6 Enigma Cipher Centre
The story of Allied codebreaking at Bletchley Park is well known, but it was actually three young Poznań math grads - Marian Rejewski, Jerzy Różycki, and Henryk Zygalski - who first cracked the German Enigma code. In 1939 they shared findings with the UK and France, laying the groundwork for later Allied efforts that were instrumental in altering the war’s outcome. This interactive museum explores their story and the broader history of cryptology, with hands-on stations for aspiring codebreakers. Not interested in the puzzles? The audioguide will keep you focused on the main exhibits, which conclude with a small section on the post-war IT revolution, including two Commodore 64s stocked with classic games you can play to your heart’s content. Game on. Visiting time: 2hrs.
F-7, ul. Święty Marcin 78. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 28/22zł.
7 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (Fort VII)
The best-preserved object from the outer ring of Poznań Fortress - built to defend the Prussian Empire from attack by the troops of Tsarist Russia - Fort VII is both a fascinating example of 19th-century military architecture, and an extremely important place of remembrance. Under German occupation in 1939 it became the first Nazi concentration camp on Polish land. Officially a prison and transit camp for the civilian population, in reality this was an extermination camp with death toll estimates as high as 20,000. Exhibits detail the crimes committed by the Nazis on the inhabitants of Wielkopolska, and the grassy, windswept grounds make for a thoughtprovoking walk. Most chilling is the graffiti that prisoners ethced into the walls, much of which can still be discerned. Hardly an easy visit emotionally, getting there is also a challenge. West of the city centre between the Botanical Garden and the airport, your best bet is a taxi. Visiting time: 90mins.
Al. Polska. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł; Tue free.
Niche & Noteworthy
Although specific in scope, these museums are worth the admission price for interested parties.
1 Poznań Croissant Museum
This market square attraction includes a multimedia presentation of the legends surrounding Poznań’s star pastry - the St. Martin’s Croissant (p.24), a tour of the historic building, and a chance to bake (and eat!) your own croissant. 'Shows' in English take place at 14:00 daily in July & August (plus weekends year-round), and conclude with perfect views of the Town Hall goats butting heads at 15:00. Head online for tickets. Visiting time: 65mins.
I-7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23).
Admission 39/35zł; kids under 3 free.
2 Potato Museum
A proudly absurd tribute to the humble potato, or ‘pyra’ in the local dialect (p.23). This underground museum is fun, interactive and led by costumed guides who walk you through exhibits extolling the history of this exalted tuber and its importance to Poznań. Discover all the varieties, the myriad of potato dishes Poles can create in the kitchen, and even bake your own pyra. Tickets are timed; book online. Visiting time: 60mins.
I-6, ul. Wroniecka 18 (entrance from ul. Mokra).
Admission 30/29zł.
3 PRL Museum
This charming museum takes visitors on a trip back in time to the banal and absurd reality of everyday life during the communist period. Located over two floors of an apartment building, the interiors are full of propagandic films and posters, original objects from the 1950s to 80s that you can touch and interact with, and photo-ops galore. A fun, educational and nostalgic experience, especially if you can visit with a local. Visiting time: 60mins.
I-7, ul. Żydowska 4. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon.
Admission 35/31zł.
4 Pop Culture Gallery
This large 3-floor art space is curated with a focus on art, pop culture, urban trends and fashion, and hosts some very cool contemporary exhibits. Between shows as we went to press, past exhibits have featured sneaker culture, Polish poster art, Björk, David LaChapelle and Iris van Herpen. Drop in to see what’s on if you’re at Stary Browar (p.90).
G-9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar). Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission varies.
5 Musical Instruments Museum
Combining music, history and ethnography, this collection of world instruments is as niche as it gets, but more interesting than it sounds. Displayed over three floors on the market square, you’ll see 15th-century lutes, relics from the life of Frederic Chopin, primitive folk rattles, royal court instruments of the highest craftsmanship, and much more. Visitors receive tablets with additional info, including sound recordings. Visiting time: 60mins.
I-7, Stary Rynek 45-47. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu 10:0018:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł; students 7-26 1zł; Tue free.
6 Museum of Historical Costume
This private museum is devoted to the history of clothing, fashion and the craft associated with it. Located in a historic townhouse, the exhibits of mostly 19th-century attire aim to tell us not only about trends in dressing, but also class divisions, the roles of women and men, and the evolution of the textile industry. Do we need to mention there’s currently an exhibit on ladies undergarments to pique your interest? Visiting time: 40mins.
H-9, ul. Kwiatowa 14/2. Open 10:00-15:00; Thu 15:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun, Mon.
Getting Around
Poznań is best navigated on foot or by bike, but also boasts an efficient, easy-to-use public transport system (you can do it). With additional rideshare, car share, bike rental and e-scooter options, you should have no trouble getting around on your own.
"Old Marych heard Poznań was better by bike, so now he’s never seen walking without his.” Find this tribute to the fictional folk hero, who charmed locals with tales in the Poznań dialect on public radio (1983–1999), at the north end of Półwiejska Street (H-8). [Photo by Małgorzata Bartczak.]
For detailed information about getting to Poznań in the first place, visit our website.
Trams & Buses
Poznań is criss-crossed by dozens of tram and bus routes, which represent your best method for getting across town and beyond between 05:00 and 23:00 (night trams and buses run less frequently outside of these hours). The skeleton key to unlocking this system is Jakdojade ( jakdojade.pl/poznan) - Poland’s best transport website/app. This free English-language service (we recommend downloading the app) will tell you exactly how to get to your destination using live transit connections based on your location. It includes trams and buses (you’ll need the latter to get to the airport), and will even guide you to the necessary transit stop on foot, and tell you exactly what kind of ticket you need. If you enter your bank details you can also buy your ticket and validate it through the app, which is truly handy.
If you prefer a more offline approach, paper transport tickets can be purchased by card from automated machines on most trams and buses (tickets are the same for both), as well as at many transit stops. Like the routes themselves, the galaxy of ticket options is far too complex to discuss here; know that you likely won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre (even Lake Malta is within Zone A). Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a not-very-cheap 4zł for only 15mins - which might only get you 5 or 6 stops. A 45-min ticket for 6zł may be the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may also want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket.
Note that if you purchase a paper ticket, you must stamp it immediately upon boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board (even if you bought your ticket on-board; ask a stranger
Tourist Lines
Ride one of Poznań’s historic trams and buses for a nostalgic trip back in time. Special routes (0, 20, 100, 102) with lovingly maintained retro rolling stock run on weekends and holidays from April 24 to Sept 28. A separate 7/5zł ticket is required, but can be bought onboard from the conductor. | ztm.poznan.pl
if you aren’t certain how to do it). Plainclothes inspectors regularly patrol the lines handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets.
Lastly, those over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 5 (no ticket required!). ISIC and student cards are valid for discounted tickets, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. | jakdojade.pl
An antique tram rolls past the Grand Theatre (p.81).
[Photo by Maciej Tomczyński.]
Rideshare & Taxis
You’ll be happy to know that some of the rideshare apps likely already on your phone will work in Poznań, including Bolt, Free Now and Uber. In fact, rideshare services and taxis are basically indistinguishable in Poland at this point, with drivers typically operating on multiple platforms at the same time. Note, however, that rideshare providers don’t have the same permissions as licensed taxi drivers and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly. If you want to make sure you’re getting an actual taxi, contact Komfort Taxi (komforttaxipoznan.pl, (+48) 533 515 202).
Car Rental & Car Share
All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Note, however, that those from countries that did not ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; an International Driver’s Licence is technically required. Major car rental companies like Avis and Hertz can be found at the airport, as well as in the city centre.
Poland also has a very good car-share service, however: Traficar. Download Traficar’s mobile app, or access this service through the Bolt app (Bolt Drive), to see their fleet of cars parked around Poznań. For short trips the cost is comparable to taking a taxi; the day rate option is a great alternative to traditional car rental, and you never have to pay for gas or insurance. Just scan the car and go, then park in a legal space within their service zone when you’re finished. You can also end your rental in a different Polish city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that, like any car rental, you need a valid driver’s licence recognised in PL. | traficar.pl
Bike Rental
Poznań has put enormous effort into cycling infrastructure in recent years, and may now be the most bike-friendly city in Poland. With smooth surfaces and copious bike lanes around the city centre, plus many interesting areas/attractions just
beyond, we strongly encourage visitors to explore Poznań by bike.
Embarrassingly, Poznań no longer offers a bike share system, but a decent number of electric-assisted bikes are available around the centre of town via the Bolt transport app. You can also contact the companies listed below to rent regular bicycles and e-bikes.
Rower Rent
J-8, ul. Mostowa 35; rowerrent.pl
Rowerowa Holandia
O-3, ul. Główna 30A; rowerowaholandia.pl.
Electric Scooters
Although agitating to some, electric motorised scooters provide a relatively cheap, easy, efficient and environmentally-friendly way to get around the centre of Poznań. At the moment the most useful e-scooter apps to have on your smartphone are Dott (electric bikes also available), Bolt (electric bikes also) and Lime (also available through the Uber app). All three have similar prices, services and restrictions. Note that scooters are automatically slowed down in high volume areas like the market square. In fact, you can only end your ride in a designated scooter parking spot without getting a large fine, so make sure you know where you’re going to leave it before setting off on a scooter.
When it comes to exploring Poznań, a bike is freedom ('wolność'). Get one.
Ostrów Tumski & Śródka
Charming Śródka serves as the gateway to ‘Cathedral Island’ (Ostrów Tumski) - the site “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. Ancient and isolated, learn Poznań’s early history in this most tranquil quarter.
Enter Ostrów Tumski via the Porta Posnania skywalk (#3).
Located on a literal island just 1km east of the Old Town, Ostrów Tumski is the oldest, most historic part of Poznań, so why not begin here? Home to Poznań Cathedral and primarily composed of ecclesiastical buildings, a visit is essential for understanding how Church and State have always been intertwined in Poland, and Ostrów Tumski’s vital role in that genesis. Together with the small, ancient settlement of Śródka, this area offers a respite from the urban energy and commercial activity of Poznań’s Old Town, which it predates.
The first settlement on Ostrów Tumski dates back to the 8th or 9th century; by the 10th, it had become a key political and administrative center - alongside nearby Gniezno and Ostrów Lednicki - of the Piasts, whose dynasty would govern the Polish lands for centuries to come. Mieszko I, the first documented ruler of the Polish state, had a palace here, with an adjoining chapel believed to be the first Christian temple in the country. His baptism in 966 - either here or in Gniezno (debate rages on) - is considered the symbolic founding of the Polish state, and soon after, Poland’s first bishopric and cathedral were established here on Ostrów Tumski.
The island’s importance made it a political target, and when Duke Bretislav I of Bohemia sacked both Ostrów Tumski and Gniezno in 1038, the Polish capital was moved south to Kraków. The Cathedral was rebuilt, but Ostrów Tumski’s potential for expansion was limited, and the Piasts decided to
establish a new fortified town, with a Royal Castle, on the spacious left bank of the Warta River in 1253. That flourishing new settlement evolved into what we know today as Poznań, while Ostrów Tumski - once the seat of rulers - became the exclusive domain of bishops.
Following the Second Partition of Poland (1793), Ostrów Tumski and Poznań came under Prussian rule, and fortifications were constructed along the island’s waterways. Heavily damaged in World War II, the Cathedral was again rebuilt, but in an older Gothic style, rather than the Neoclassical form that had defined it since 1772. During the communist era, authorities displayed their disdain for the Catholic Church by constructing a major road through the island, cutting directly through the Archbishop's garden. Despite this, Ostrów Tumski retains an insular, peaceful atmosphere, making it ideal for a leisurely stroll through Poland’s early history.
Walking Tour
Although just west of the Old Town, the most romantic way to approach Cathedral Island is from the east. Take the tram to ‘ Rondo Śródka ’ to begin this short walking tour, which takes you through quaint Środka - full of places to refuel and relax (see p.47) - before crossing the river for an essential visit to Poznań Cathedral. Although an easy distance of less than 1.5km, you may find yourself spending half a day in this unhurried and enchanting historical area.
1Rynek Śródecki (Śródka Market Square)
From the tramstop, a short stroll down a pedestrian lane brings you to Rynek Śródecki - the epicentre of a district so tiny today, it’s hard to imagine that it was its own city from the mid-1200s until its incorporation into Poznań in 1800. The town takes its name from the Wednesday (‘Środa’) markets that for over 700 years took place here, or, rather, on the former market square, which is actually located somewhere underneath the tram tracks that may have carried you to the neighbourhood.
Nonetheless, contemporary Śródka displays plenty of charms - the foremost of which is the huge 3D mural by Radosław Barek. Inspired by a 1920s photograph, this artwork has added depth, colour and character to the area since 2015. Directly across from it is St. Margaret’s Church, which dates prior to 1231 and features a stunted Gothic tower. The 17thcentury chapel of St. Philip Neri inside inspired the Philippine Order to build their first monastery in PL across the street (today a music school). | L-6.
The mural on Rynek Śródecki perfectly demonstrates how art can completely transform a space.
2Ostrówek Street
Note that as you cross Św. Jacka Street, just one block west of Śródka Market Square, Śródka suddenly becomes Ostrówek Street. Unbelievably, this two-block span to the Cybina River was also once its own independent town! Established by King Wladyslaw of Varna in 1444, for over 350 years it was actually considered the smallest town in Poland, though most of its historic townhouses date from the early 20th century.
As you head towards Jordan Bridge, note the unique art installation above the beer garden at number 17. Named ‘Zielona Symfonia’ (Green Symphony), this musical mural is designed to create a cacophony of sounds when it rains, though apparently it was so effective that the local residents had it deactivated. So much for art. | L-6.
3
Porta Posnania
Although the natural temptation is to head straight over the bridge to Poznań Cathedral, do consider a trip to Porta Posnania if you’re with the kids or want to embed yourself more deeply in Poland’s early history. This modern, minimalist building was created specifically as an introduction and gateway to Ostrów Tumski for tourists, and it presents the area’s history from medieval times to the modern day via a combination of audio guides and multimedia displays. The exhibition is available in an array of foreign languages and there’s a special, shorter version for families with kids 5-11 years old. Your ticket includes an audioguide to the entire district, and a joint admission ticket, including the Island’s other museums (Genius Loci (#5) and the Archdiocesan (#6)), is also available.
Highlights of the building include the skywalk over the river (no ticket required), and the seasonal rooftop terrace (ticket required), which offers great views of the river and Cathedral. Visiting time: 100mins.
L-6, ul. Gdańska 2. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:0019:00; closed Mon. Admission 28/22zł.
4Cathedral Lock Gate
A leftover of Prussian Poznań’s massive system of fortifications, this early-19th-century structure was once part of a literal lock with bridgeheads on both sides, and a bridge with valves that could strategically regulate the river in case of a siege. Today it hosts Galeria Śluza - an exhibition space that is technically part of Porta Posnania (to which it connects via the skywalk), but operates independently and is free to explore via the entrance from ul. Dziekańska. The exhibits are random and hardly essential, but the space is worth checking out; you can scan QR codes around the structure to learn more about its history. Visiting time: 20mins.
L-6, ul. Dziekańska 2. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:0019:00; closed Mon. Admission free.
Choose Your Adventure!
To immerse yourself in another audioguide, follow the route to the Archaeological Preserve (#5).
If you feel you’ve adequately prepared, skip ahead to the Cathedral already (#7).
If you’ve earned a break, have an ice cream in the sunny garden across from Galeria Śluza (Cafe na Trakcie), or go for a stiff drink and a proper meal in the shade at Food Fort, just 50m further towards the Cathedral.
A constant scourge of the early stronghold on Ostrów Tumski was giant mole-children bursting through the earth. [At Porta Posnania.]
5Genius Loci Archaeological Preserve
This museum was created when archaeological research revealed a late-10th-century defensive wall that once surrounded the Piast settlement on Ostrów Tumski. Guided by another audio tour, visitors here will get a different perspective on the island’s early history and inhabitants while exploring the multimedia displays, which include a 3D film, 10th-century artefacts, and glass walkways over some of the original settlement’s excavated walls and embankments. Visiting time: 1hr.
K-6, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat 10:0018:00; Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł.
6
Archdiocese Museum
Jan Lubrański is an important figure in Poznań’s history. Bishop of Poznań from 1498 until his death in 1520, Lubrański brought the spirit of the Renaissance to Poland by founding Lubrański Academy - the first Polish educational institution to teach a humanities-oriented curriculum. Today the former Academy building is home to the Poznań Archdiocese Museum; founded in the 1890s, it is
one of the oldest such institutions in Poland, and one of Poznań’s first museums. If you’re a fan of religious art and relics, you won’t find many better collections, and yet another audioguide will take you through it. Most notable among the treasures are St. Peter’s Sword (featured on the Ostrów Tumski Coats of Arms) and King Jagiełło’s 15th-century gold monstrance. Visiting time: 60mins.
K-6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1. Open 11:00-17:00; Sat 11:0016:00; Sun 11:00-15:00. Admission 20/15zł.
When you drop your AirPod into a 10th-century dig site and debate your next move.... [Photo by K. Zisopulu.]
Toruń
This idyllic cit y on the Vistula River features a UNESCO World Heritage-Listed Old Town, gingerbread, and its historic connections with the world’s most famous astronomer.
For nearly 800 years, Toruń has left a lasting impression on visitors with its unique charm. One of Poland’s most beautiful and visited cities, its medieval Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracts around 2.5 million people annually. History enthusiasts admire the cit y ’ s well-preserved Brick-Gothic architecture, a reminder of its Hanseatic trading past. The cit y ' s roots go even deeper, with 13th-century Teutonic castle ruins adding to its historic appeal. Toruń is also the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus (1473–1543), the renowned astronomer. Visitors can learn about his life at the Copernicus House museum, located in his beautifully-preserved family home. This site offers insight into his early years and his revolutionary heliocentric theory, which proved that the Earth orbits the Sun, not the other way around!
Toruń has been home to Nicolaus Copernicus Universit y since 1945, reflecting the cit y ’ s strong academic spirit and vibrant student life. It’s also known for its traditional gingerbread, available in many Old Town shops and showcased in interactive museums where visitors can bake their own. Science lovers enjoy the “Mill of Knowledge” and the Planetarium continues to show the wonders of the cosmos to curious minds. The cit y also features modern sports venues, like Europe’s top speedway stadium and ARENA TORUŃ. Cultural life thrives with festivals, contemporary art, theatres, and riverfront events. Exhibitions are hosted at the Centre of Contemporary Art and the JORDANKI Cultural and Convention Centre
About 160km and 2-3 hours travel from Poznań, Toruń’ s fairytale-like setting is an ideal cit y-break destination in Northern Poland. A day trip is an easy option, though the cit y ‘ s charms tend to inspire longer stays. So check out Toruń’ s wide range of accommodation, from global hotels to charming Old Town stays. For more information: w w w.visittorun.com
Poznań Cathedral
Finally, it’s on to the main event. If you’ve seen much of Europe, or even just Poland, you’ve surely seen some spectacular churches. With its soaring twin towers and relatively simple Gothic design, Poznań Cathedral may not rank with the most awe-inspiring of them, at least not from the outside. The reason this building is so important, however, is not because of how it looks (though, step inside, it’s impressive), but because of its history and role in the early Polish state. Not only is this the country’s oldest cathedral, it is also Poland’s first royal necropolis. Three kings and five dukes of the Piast dynasty are buried inside, as well as Poznań’s bishops - who were not just moral authorities on matters of faith, but also revered
statesmen. To fully understand and appreciate the importance of everything you see inside, we recommend you visit during proper tourist hours (listed at the end) and join a guided tour.
Officially called the ‘Archcathedral Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul,’ a cathedral has stood at this site since 968, though the structure has been razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulting in a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neoClassicism. During the 1945 Siege of Poznań, 65% of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today.
Inside Poznań Cathedral.
The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels. These include: The Royal Chapel (in the right corner upon entering), which holds the remains of King Przemysł I and his son King Przemysł II; the 19thcentury Golden Chapel (behind the main altar, furthest from the entrance), which was houses the sarcophagi of Poland’s first two monarchs, Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; and the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament (on the left side from the entrance), which houses the elaborate tombstones of the powerful and influential Górka family - examples of Gothic and Renaissance art so valuable that they were stolen during WWII and only returned here in 1993. The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by fourteen female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720.
In the Cathedral cellars you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, the 10th-century baptismal font many historians speculate was used to baptise the first Polish sovereign, and the presumed original tombs of Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt contains the tombs of Poznań’s archbishops and an exhibition of artefacts found during excavations here. Visiting time: 45mins.
Bolesław Chrobry extolling the slimming effects of chainmail to Mieszko I in the Golden Chapel.
8
Church of Our Lady in Summo
‘In Summo’ is a Latin phrase referring to this church’s position ‘on high’ or ‘on the heights’ of Ostrów Tumski. In fact, this small Gothic church was built in the early-15th century on the exact position of Mieszko I’s 10th-century palace, even using some of the same foundations. A unique installation surrounding the building traces the outline of that palace - Ostrów Tumski’s first royal residence and Christian temple - and is illuminated after dark.
As for the church itself, it is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting and polychromatic decorations; the altar was designed by Poznań artist Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The tall facade with its abrupt edge almost make the church appear unfinished, and distinctive grooves in the eastern wall have led to speculation that it was used to sharpen swords. | K-6.
9Psaltery
Standing opposite the Church of Our Lady, this Late Gothic structure was built in 1518 on the initiative of Bishop Jan Lubrański, whose coat of arms can be seen to the right of the entrance. It was here that the ‘college of psalters’ - a 12-man choir that was part of the Lubrański Academy - would gather to sing each day. Unbelievably, in the 17th century psalms were sung on Ostrów Tumski 24 hours a day, with pupils from the Academy singing in pairs that changed every hour. Although the psalters’ college existed until 1810, the building was converted into apartments for the clergy in the late 1700s, and was briefly used as an orphanage in the mid-1800s. Today it is closed to the public, but columns on the ground-floor bear markings recording the high-water marks from floods that frequently beset the island, the highest of which reads ‘1698.’ | K-6.
Choose Your Adventure!
Time to rest and refuel? Head back into Śródka over the Jordan Bridge and make yourself comfortable in one of the places listed on the opposite page.
Alternatively, find the water tram stop under Chrobrego Bridge and head 1 stop downriver by boat (5zł) to Chwaliszewo (K-8), where you can enjoy food and drinks on the riverside at KontenerArt, or start a short, scenic walk into the Old Town.
The Church of Our Lady: nice building, regrettable location. [Photo by Monika Jasińska.]
OSTRÓW TUMSKI & ŚRÓDKA
Eat & Drink
With quaint pedestrian streets and ‘slow lane’ vibes, this area offers an array of charming, relaxing, high-quality eateries. Things get quiet quickly after dark, however. For full venue details and descriptions, head to our website.
MORNING
Cafe ‘Na Trakcie’
L-6, ul. Ks. Ignacego Posadzego 7
Across from Cathedral Lock, this seasonal cafe offering so-so coffee and huge slices of cake is for those who can simply appreciate the wonderful garden setting.
09
Dynx
L-6, ul. Ostrówek 12
This smart, trendy resto offers a range of globally-inspired breakfasts from 09:00-12:00, after which it’s a popular option for burgers, pierogi and modern European fare.
0125
DINING
Do Środka
L-6, ul. Śródka 6
Excellent Asian eats, an exciting brunch menu (from 12:00), exotic cocktails and enviable outdoor seating directly on Rynek Śródecki. Different, delicious and a solid value too.
1249
La Farina Italiana L-6, ul. Śroka 3
Although they don’t open until 14:00(?!), La Farina deserves a mention for its stylish interior, glowing service and - above allsheer mastery of Italian cuisine. Justifiably popular.
0259
Food Fort L-6, ul. Dziekańska 1
With sophisticated cuisine and a gorgeous garden, this hidden oasis behind Ostrów Tumski’s defensive walls is ideal for an intimate lunch date, or simply a drink in the shade.
259
Hyćka L-6, Rynek Śródecki 17
Although perhaps not to everyone’s taste, no restaurant has done more to define the character of Wielkopolskan cuisine. Head to Hyćka for a deep dive into regional dishes done right.
2
Na Winklu
L-6, ul. Śródka 1
A wide range of both boiled and baked pierogi, stuffed with savoury, seasonal and seldomseen fillings, make this hip corner bistro a popular lunch choice.
02
Tumska
K-6, ul. Ostrów Tumski 5A
Right near Poz Cathedral, this classy but casual restaurant is a strong choice for excellent upmarket interpretations of Wielkopolska cuisine, and also boasts a lovely garden.
259
DRINKING
Tam Gdzie Zawsze
L-6, ul. Cybińska 13/1
With local craft beer, wine, tapas, pastrami sandwiches and a glorious garden, this fantastic multitap bar is the only watering hole this neighbourhood needs. 2659
Old Town
Step into the heart of Poznań, where centuries of human energy, upheaval and achievement - including ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps’ - offer their enduring stories.
To explore the Old Town you can begin anywhere, but we’ve chosen the southern approach as the most practical and picturesque. The ‘Wrocławska’ tram stop makes an easy entry point, and deposits you at the base of one of Poznań’s most bustling streets. Divided into two sections, with a selfcontained tour of the Market Square in the middle (p.58), our Old Town tour is only 2km long, but should take the better part of an afternoon. Coffee and culture breaks are strongly encouraged, and you’ll find a list of recommended cafes, bars and restaurants on pages 70-71.
History
By the 13th century, the limitations of the settlement on Ostrów Tumski were evident. While the island had a strategic defensive position, it lacked space for expansion, couldn’t accommodate growing trade, and was prone to flooding. As a result, Duke Przemysł I and Bolesław the Pious (Pobożny) - the brothers ruling Wielkopolska - decided to establish a new city on the spacious left bank of the Warta River in 1253. Laid out in a grid around a central market square, surrounded by defensive walls and granted many privileges, Poznań soon became a thriving trade centre. By the late 16th century, the courtly Royal Castle, soaring Collegiate Church and immaculate Renaissance Town Hall all stood as symbols of the city’s rich culture and prosperity.
Things changed with the destruction of the Swedish Deluge (1655), followed by the Polish Partitions in the late-18th century, which brought Poznań under Prussian (later German) rule. During this era the medieval walls and other historic buildings were demolished, and efforts were made to suppress Polish identity. Following World War I, the success of the Wielkopolska Uprising returned Poznań to the re-established Polish Republic, but the city fell
under Nazi occupation just two decades later. Turned into a German fortress during the 1945 Battle of Poznań, by the end of the siege 60% of the Old Town lay in ruin.
After the war, Polish authorities worked tirelessly to faithfully restore the historical appearance of the centre. Recent years have also seen significant efforts to renovate streets and improve infrastructure, while preserving the Old Town’s innate charm. Today the district’s busy public spaces, fascinating museums and breathtaking architecture tell the story of a city that has persevered through centuries of change.
Poznań Market Square, 1945. [CYRYL_52_0_8_1_0016]
Poznań, as it appeared in an illustrated atlas from 1617.
Old Town Walking Tour
1Wrocławska Street
Since it was laid out in the 13th century, Wrocławska has always been one of Poznań’s busiest thoroughfares. It was here that the Wrocławska Gate - one of four main entryways to the city - stood for centuries, connecting Poznań to the centre of Europe and, you guessed it, Wrocław to the south. By the 17th century, Poznań’s Old Town defensive walls had lost their function and were constraining the city’s growth. Under Prussian rule in the 18th century, Wrocławska Gate and most of the city’s other medieval fortifications were torn down, though a section of wall can be seen just to the right from here, with a nice view of the Parish Church beyond it (consider following the length of the wall into beautiful Chopin Park to enter the Jesuit complex from the back).
The first building on your right is the historic Saski Hotel (Wrocławska 25) - once Poznań’s finest facility for hosting foreign and state dignitaries on their way to and from Berlin. Napoleon Bonaparte twice visited the Saski, even consummating a peace treaty between France and Saxony in the hotel’s Redoubt Room in 1806. Today the Saski
is little more than a row of shops, but the entire street has been pedestrianised and brims with commercial businesses, bars and restaurants, making it a good place to return in the evening (though it can be a bit crazy on weekends). | J-3.
Choose Your Adventure!
Resist the lure of the Market Square for now and follow the prescribed route to Poznań’s former Jesuit complex. Continue to point 2 via Gołębia Street, or sneak in the back via Chopin Park.
We understand if Wrocławska Street’s energy draws you straight to the Market Square. If so, skip ahead to p.56.
Although you can’t sense it from here, Wrocławska’s high street energy extends south for several blocks down Półwiejska - one of Poznań’s main commercial streets (p.91). Cut through the shopping mall to see what we mean.
Crowded by day, Wrocławska gets even more rambunctious at night.
In 1570 the Jesuits were invited to Poznań to improve the city’s intellectual and spiritual life. Given a large endowment of property, they set right to work, creating an educational institution that soon attracted students from across Poland. Today the former Jesuit complex dominates the south-east corner of Poznań’s Old Town, and includes the Parish Church, the former Jesuit College, the former Jesuit School (across the street at Gołębia 8), and Chopin Park (behind the College).
2
Parish Church (Fara Poznańska)
This former Jesuit temple, commonly known as the Parish Church, or ‘Fara’ (from the German ‘Pfarre’), is one of Poznań’s most impressive and iconic monuments. Built on the site of a small church founded by Bishop Jan Lubrański (see p.42), the Jesuits employed a veritable who’s who of Roman artists to design and decorate a larger temple in the style of Rome’s grand Baroque basilicas. The work was carried out in the late-17th and early-18th centuries, and its rich interiors became symbolic of Poznań’s rising status and sophistication.
Consistently restored over the centuries, the church was given the status of ‘lesser basilica’ by Pope Benedict in 2002.
The Parish Church is known for its 2579-pipe organ and incredible acoustics; if you’re visiting on a Saturday, drop in for a free organ performance at 12:15. Immediately afterwards, guided tours of the interiors are offered for a small fee; gather outside the church entrance at about 12:45 to join.
I-7, ul. Gołębia 1. Open 06:00-19:30.
The tower of the former Jesuit College. [Photo by Paweł Florczyk.]
3
Former Jesuit College
Opened in 1573, the Jesuit College was the centre of intellectual life in Poznań for 200 years. The magnificent four-storey Baroque complex you see today was built from 1719-52. Shortly thereafter, in 1773, Pope Clement XIV officially suppressed the Jesuit order, leading to their expulsion from Poznań. The College continued as Wielkopolska Academy (which would eventually become University of Poznań), but the ornate interiors also served official functions. In 1805, Russian Tsar Alexander I made a brief stay, and in 1806, Napoleon quartered here for three weeks. After World War II the College buildings ceased any ties to academia and have since been the seat of Poznań City Hall. The inner courtyard is open to visitors, and hosts a cafe, open-air exhibits and public restrooms, as well as summer events. See if you can find the small bronze gnome - a gift from the city of Wrocław.
A walk through the courtyard leads to beautiful Chopin Park, the name of which commemorates the famous Polish pianist’s performance in the former College’s White Room in 1828. The park was originally established by the Jesuits as a place for students to relax.
Lastly, take note of the building of the former Jesuit School across the street from the College. Today it houses the State Ballet School and its gorgeous inner courtyard is worth a look. | I-8.
Amber and Silver Jewellery
(certificato)
Inside the Former Jesuit College. [Photo by Przemysław Łukaszyk.]
4
Plac Kolegiacki
While the Parish Church is impressive, it doesn’t hold a candle to the Collegiate Church of St. Mary Magdalene, which stood on this square until 1802. Founded in the 13th century, the church grew to become the largest and richest in the Old Town. Boasting 27 chapels, 52 altars, a soaring 30m nave, and an astounding 115m tower, the Gothic temple was the tallest building in Poznań - a title it would still have were it standing today. The church grew in splendour and prestige under the Jesuits until 1773 (ironically the same year they were expelled), when it was damaged by lightning. In need of repair, the new Prussian authorities instead decided to demolish it - one of the more overlooked tragedies in Poznań’s history. Only two-thirds of the former church plot was subsequently developed, and Plac Kolegiacki was born.
The space you see today - with its benches, trees, fountain and outdoor dining areas - actually only came about in 2022, after decades of use as a car park, and 5 years of archaeological research; you can read the fascinating findings in an open-air exhibit on the west side of the square. Two large windows now look down upon the church’s foundations, and a tall, unintelligible monument called the ‘Clock of History’ stands like a flagpole at its centre. Nevermind that, don’t miss your moment with the popular monument of the Town Hall billy goats before moving on. | I-7.
5
Górka Palace
Although its unassuming exterior might not turn heads, this historic complex - spanning an entire block on the southeast corner of the Old Market Square - was once the grand residence of one of the most powerful noble families in Wielkopolska. Built in the 16th century by Łukasz and Andrzej Górka - Voivode and Starost General of Wielkopolska, respectively - it is one of the most important examples of Renaissance architecture in Poznań, boasting decorative portals and a colonnaded courtyard.
The Górka family played a key role in shaping Poznań’s political and cultural landscape, and their prestige was reflected in their residence’s lavish features, including a rooftop garden with fish ponds. After the family’s last heir died in 1592, the palace changed hands multiple times, underwent several modifications and was badly damaged in World War II.
In the 1960s, it was carefully restored and adapted to house the Archaeological Museum, which showcases Poland’s prehistoric past alongside an extensive collection of artefacts from Egypt, the Middle East, and beyond. Even if you skip the exhibits, take a moment to admire the original 16th-century sandstone portal on Klasztorna Street, then step into the arcaded courtyard to see the Obelisk of Ramesses II, crowned with a 23-karat gold pyramidion. Bling! Visiting time: 90mins.
I-7, ul. Wodna 27. Open 09:00-16:00; Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-16:00. Admission 15/10zł, Sat free.
Choose Your Adventure!
Enough meandering, let’s go to the Old Town Square, already. Turn the page.
If you’ve done the Town Square already, skip ahead to p.64 to explore the north side of the Old Town.
For a true hidden gem, consider a side quest to Woźna 9 to check out the stylish tiled courtyard passageway of Otto Stern’s townhouse, and don’t miss the neo-Baroque facade when you come out on Wielka Street.
Renaissance portal of Górka Palace on Klasztorna Street. [Photo by Maciej Tomczyński.]
Old Town Square
Laid out in 1253 as the commercial and administrative center of the newly chartered city, Poznań’s Market Square (Stary Rynek) quickly became a bustling social and economic hub. Over the centuries, it has reflected the city’s economic fortunes and political shifts, while remaining the cultural heart of Poznań. Today, its charming townhouses are home to cafes and museums, and its architectural details tell the fascinating story of the city’s history. Join us on a mini-tour of the main points of interest.
Mythological Fountains
A lovely attribute of Poznań’s market square are the four fountains in its corners, each adorned with a figure from Roman mythology. These large round pools occupy the former sites of medieval wells. Their first mention dates back to the 16th century, when wooden animal sculptures were commissioned to decorate them. In the 17th century, city authorities opted for a more mythological angle, commissioning four new wooden sculptures
of Apollo, Jupiter, Mars and Neptune. In 1766, Jupiter was replaced with a new Baroque sandstone sculpture of Proserpina being abducted by Pluto, god of the Underworld. Of the four fountains you see today, this is the only original to have survived. The other three were reconstructed in bronze between 2002 and 2005, and if you look closely, you’ll notice that they are quite uniform in their size and design, and also accessible, while Proserpina is fenced off.
AMerchant Houses
Let’s begin by comparing the buildings lining both sides of the Town Square. On the left are the iconic, colourful and slightly uneven Merchant Houses, looking a bit like a box of crayons sharpened to different lengths (ah, but this irregularity gives them their charm). Built in the 16th century, these narrow townhouses were erected by modestly wealthy middle-class merchants, who traded everyday goods on the ground floor - most commonly fish, salt, textiles, grains, candles and furs - and slept upstairs. Uniquely colonnaded, they survived into the 20th century, but were almost completely destroyed during WWII. Faithfully rebuilt using many of their original Renaissance details, the polychromes on the facades were designed by Zbigniew Bednarowicz after the war. Today you can’t really get anything other than cheap souvenirs under the arcades, but there is a decent cafe (Rogal) making St. Martin’s croissants (p.24) if you want to tick that box while you’re here. | I-7.
BBurgher Houses
By contrast, the townhouses surrounding the market square belonged to wealthy upperclass burghers: members of the nobility, town officials and/or influential merchants who accrued wealth through large-scale overseas trade. It’s worth paying attention to the rich decorative details of their facades, many were given facelifts by famed Renaissance architect Giovanni Batista di Quadro (designer of the Town Hall) in the 16th century; a sculpture of di Quadro himself can be seen on the corner of Stary Rynek 84.
Each of these townhouses harbours its own history and legends, but we’ll just give you one example. Stary Rynek 50 - distinguished by its tall Gothic gable and a small plaque near the door recording the high water mark of the flood of 1736 - was apparently the site of a lavish feast for King Augustus the Strong (August II Mocny) in 1715. Known for his debauched lifestyle and endless mistresses (he’s said to have fathered over 300 children!), Augustus did not arrive in Poznań as a popular sovereign after dragging Poland into several unsuccessful wars that saw foreign troops pilfer the city. Legend has it that the party was so wild, the king fell out of the window, but was saved from mortal injury by the small awning that extends over the door. Whether he was intoxicated and whether he fell are not questioned, but was he perhaps nudged out by disgruntled, opportunistic locals…? | I-7.
This photo by Tomasz Leśnik nicely shows the contrast between the burgher houses (top) and merchant houses (bottom).
Is it a 'pillory' or a 'pranger'? Please discuss.
CPillory
Poznań is very proud of its pillory. This symbol of medieval justice has stood on Stary Rynek since 1535 and was in active use until 1848, when the Prussians finally retired it. 5.5 metres tall and topped with a sculpture of the town’s swordwielding executioner, the pillory was used to intimidate locals and punish criminals, who would be chained to it and publicly ridiculed for minor offenses, or whipped, maimed and dismembered for more severe crimes. The standard for constituted severe crime may have been frightfully low, as the pillory itself states in an inscription that it was paid for by fines levied against ladies who dressed above their social standing (for your fourth frilly dress you could be banished from the city forever!). Interestingly, the pillory was erected at what was deemed to be the geographic centre of the city in 1535. Today it hardly seems effective, as it has been vandalised, repaired and restored many times. To ensure its preservation, a copy was created in 1925, and you can see the original inside the Town Hall Museum. | I-7.
DOld Town Hall
First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Town Hall (Ratusz) was transformed into the architectural marvel you see today in the 1550s when city authorities hired hotshot Italian architect Giovanni Battista di Quadro to redesign the existing Gothic single-storey building into something more befitting one of the wealthiest in Poland. Di Quadro nailed the assignment, adding multiple loggias, two clocks, a soaring tower, several turrets and an array of decorative elements, including portraits of Polish rulers, paintings of allegorical virtues, figures from antiquity, and dozens of Latin proverbs, like ‘The best of cities is one that has good citizens.’ The Renaissance masterpiece immediately acclaimed ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps ‘ - a point that’s hard to argue to this day. Although a catalogue of disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bombing - have befallen it, the Town Hall has been faithfully rebuilt each time, and retains its status as Poznań’s most exquisite monument.
Apparently everything south of the Alps looks like this. Must be boring.
And this showpiece literally puts on a show! Every day at precisely 12:00 and 15:00, two automatonic billy goats emerge from a small hatch above the clock and butt heads to demonstrate the hour, while a trumpeter plays the city’s short traditional bugle call (hejnał) from the balcony of the tower at noon. Although there are silly legends associated with each (we’ll spare you), Poznań’s bugle call dates back to at least the 1400s and was likely played to signal the raising and lowering of the city gates, or to warn of fire, invasion and other dangers. The goats have been part of the Town Hall clock since 1551, and are the handiwork of master locksmith Bartłomiej Wolff. Huge crowds gather to see them, so stake out a spot early, or you might not be close enough. Both absurd in their charm and awe-inspiring in their complexity, the Town Hall goats have become the foremost symbol of Poznań (see a monument to them on Plac Kolegiacki, p.54).
Today the Town Hall is open to the public as a branch of the National Museum. Undergoing renovations, only the basements and ground floor are open at present, but you’ll still see a range of unique artefacts - including the billy goats that butted heads on the Town Hall from 1911-92, and relics from the long-gone Church of St. Mary Magdalene (p.54) - that collectively tell the story of Poznań up to the mid-16th century. Visiting time: 30mins.
I-7, Stary Rynek 1. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/13zł; Tue free.
See 'Pyrek' and 'Tyrek' perform at 12:00 and 15:00.
EBamberger Monument
In an alley behind the Town Hall you’ll find a fountain topped with a small sculpture of a traditionally-dressed peasant woman carrying water jugs. Created by sculptor Joseph Wackerle (who would later become Reich Culture Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist), it was unveiled in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking water for horses. The monument commemorates the Bambergers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today south-east Germany), who came to the Poznań area in the hundreds in the early 18th century at the invitation of city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. Known for their elaborate folk dresses, this resourceful, hard-working group quickly integrated into Polish society, learning the language, identifying themselves as Polish and fighting for Polish national causes. An important contributor to Poznań’s history and culture, to find out more about this unique ethnic group, you can visit the Poznań Bamberger Museum (J-8, ul. Mostowa 7/9). | I-7.
FCity Scales Building
This splendid structure played an important role in the trade that powered Poznań’s economy. Essentially a medieval weigh station, it was here that city authorities ensured that trade was conducted fairly. Merchants were required to have their goods weighed and measured here before taking them to market. Sales tax and other duties were also collected, filling the city’s coffers.
The first Scales building was constructed in the 13th century, but di Quadro gave it a Renaissance revamp in 1561. Despite this, the building was dismantled (many of the original interiors were moved to the Old Town Hall) at the end of the 19th century and replaced by the Neo-Renaissance New Town Hall. After the war - during which the market square was smithereened - city authorities used original drawings to rebuild this 16th-century Scales building, rather than restore the New Town Hall. Today the building is used by the city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates. | H/I-7.
For generations, the Bambergers 'carried water' for Poznań, and this monument honours their contribution.
GGuardhouse
After a series of wars, Poznań’s prestige had dimmed greatly, and by the 18th century - like much of the Polish kingdom - the city was in decline. This guardhouse was built in an attempt to not only beautify this side of the Town Square, but also improve order by bringing law enforcement into its very centre. Designed in a classicist style that contrasts with its surroundings, it was completed in 1787; Prussia would annex the city only a few years later.
In the inter-war period, the guardhouse served as a garrison jailhouse. Like much of the Old Town, it was levelled in the 1945 Battle of Poznań, but reconstructed, serving as the Workers’ Movement Museum during the communist era. Currently it houses the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum, covering one of the most pivotal moments in Poznań’s modern history (see p.31). Literally the only successful uprising in Polish history, the Wielkopolska Uprising (1918-19) liberated Wielkopolska from German rule after World War I, ensuring their integration into the newlyestablished Second Polish Republic. A huge point of local pride, a large modern museum dedicated to the Uprising is currently being built north of the Old Town (opening in 2026). | H-7.
HOd:zysk
While many of the tenements on the Town Square, and the surface of the Square itself, have been renovated in recent years, you ‘ll still notice a graffitied, boarded-up building creeping out of the southwest corner. That’s Od:zysk - a former anarchist squat and testament to Poznań’s strong activist scene. After housing a succession of fashion stores, this late-19th century building was abandoned by its owners and squatted in 2012. Soon it grew into an alternative cultural centre, hosting parties, concerts, workshops and other events, while also sparking conflict with city authorities who felt it jeopardised the Old Town’s tourist appeal. With some 50 people living inside in spartan conditions, it took until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the squatters moved out in exchange for a 125,000zł donation to the Wielkopolska Tenants' Association. Since then the building has remained empty, and the anarchists have mostly kept to their Rozbrat headquarters northwest of the Old Town (F4, ul. Pułaskiego 21A). | H-7.
ISt. John of Nepomuk Monument
This monument was erected in 1724 to honour John of Nepomuk (Jan Nepomucan), a Bohemian martyr and saint whose cult was in vogue at that time. John made the mistake of backing the wrong candidate for an abbot appointment, or refused to divulge the secrets of the Queen of Bohemia’s confessional to her jealous husband Wenceslaus IV, or perhaps both. At any rate, the King had him thrown off Prague’s Charles Bridge in 1393. A protector against drowning, it was hoped that erecting this monument would prevent the disastrous floods that plagued Poznań, but ultimately re-routing the Warta River in the 1960s did a far better job of that. | H-7.
JArsenal Pavilion
With such a huge market square, and an economy that thrived on trade for centuries, what’s missing from this picture? If you’ve visited Kraków, you might have an inkling: actual market buildings. Like Kraków, Poznań’s Town Square featured a Cloth Hall, as well as other covered market halls, granaries, warehouses and butcher stalls. During Swedish occupation in the 17th century, one of the Square’s oldest market halls was converted into an arsenal for storing weapons and munitions. Adjacent to this were 13th-century butcher stalls, which retained that function until 1939 (over 750 years!).
When historical structures like the Guardhouse got restored after World War II, these other structures were curiously consigned to the rubble. Instead, city authorities replace them with something in the latest architectural trend: modernist functionalism. In other words, they built a soulless monstrosity made of glass and concrete, which clashes with everything around it. Completed in 1954, to this day the utilitarian pavilion causes controversy, with some locals calling for its demolition, while others express fondness for it. The latter must be art lovers, as the left side of the twin pavilions is occupied by Arsenal City Gallery - the city’s best contemporary art gallery. The fact that it’s free means there’s no reason not to check it out. Better than guns and pig guts, we suppose. Visiting time: 40mins.
H-7, Stary Rynek 6. Open 12:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission free.
KWielkopolska Military Museum
This was the original site of Poznań’s Cloth Hall, however, unlike in Kraków, the building had lost its usefulness and been converted into townhouses under Prussian rule in the 19th century. Amazingly, the Arsenał Pavilion built in its place was the winning design of a wide competition organised by the city, and it had no
Hang your head, St. John. Hang it and weep.
specified use other than to fill the space; they’d figure out what to do with it later. For eight years the pavilions remained empty until the Arsenał Art Gallery and Military Museum both moved in in 1962, where they’ve remained ever since.
The roots of the Military Museum trace back to the Wielkopolska Uprising. Founded as part of the 1919 celebrations of Wielkopolska’s unification with the rest of the reborn Polish nation, the museum was born by co-opting the location and collection of the Hindenburg Museum - a too-soon German institution created in 1916 to commemorate their success in WWI. The Germans would soon have their revenge, however, liquidating the museum during WWII by sending German exhibits back to Berlin and destroying the Polish ones. Lesson-not-learned, the Poles began talk of reviving the Military Museum only a decade later and it just so happened there was a big empty exhibition pavilion on the Town Square, where had once stood an armoury, no less.
A branch of the National Museum, this museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards, with an array of weaponry, uniforms, portraits of commanders, paintings of battles, and a particular focus, once again, on the Wielkopolska Uprising. Entirely skippable. Visiting time: 1hr.
H-7, Stary Rynek 9. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł; Tue free.
Choose Your Adventure!
The Town Square is home to several other niche museums, including the Museum of Musical Instruments (Stary Rynek 45-47, p.33); the Poznań Croissant Museum (Stary Rynek 41/2, p.33); and the Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (Stary Rynek 84, special interest only).
Take a well-earned break in one of the many cafes and restaurants surrounding the Town Square; recommendations on p.70.
Exit the Town Square through the northeast corner and turn the page to continue your walking tour of the Old Town.
Old Town (continued)
7Żydowska Street
Exiting the Town Square onto ul. Żydowska - literally ‘Jewish Street’ - obliges us to address Poznań’s Jewish heritage. Jews were present in Poznań before the city was even established, including some in the courts of the early Piast dynasty rulers. When the city was staked out, Jews were assigned to its northern section, and the area between today’s Żydowska, Szewska, Mokra and Stawna streets (I-6) came to be the heart of Poznań’s Jewish District. As the city grew and prospered, so too did its Jewish population, which was the largest in Poland throughout the Middle Ages and Renaissance. | I-7.
8Holy Blood of Jesus Church
One of Poznan’s most offensive, harmful and well-documented legends claims that in 1399, local Jews paid a poor woman to steal Christian sacramental wafers, placed them on a table and began stabbing them with a knife. As the story goes, blood burst everywhere, so the Jews threw
the wafers in a well, but they floated out. They then tried to bury them in the marshes south of the Old Town, but the holy hosts unburied themselves and floated there too, scaring the Jews off. A young shepherd found the floating wafers, and a church was consecrated on the spot (as you do).’
This is the founding myth of Poznań’s Corpus Christi Church (H-9, ul. Strzelecka 40), and it was passed down with enough conviction that when a table and well were found in the basement of Żydowska 34 in 1620, it began attracting pilgrims. Under pressure from the Carmelites, the city converted the entire townhouse into the 'Holy Blood of Jesus Church' in 1704, and believers come every Sunday to pray and drink from its well, which they say has miraculous properties. Dare to venture inside and you’ll see 18th-century frescos depicting a trio of Jews desecrating the wafers with the aid of the Devil himself. While this stark example of antiSemitism remains in plain sight, most traces of Poznań’s Jewish heritage have vanished from view.
I-7, ul. Żydowska 34.
9
Żydowska Street (con’t)
Poznań’s Jewish District was characterised by narrow alleyways and packed with overpopulated wooden dwellings, making it vulnerable to arsfires. The worst of many conflagrations was the Great Fire of 1803, which consumed the neighbourhood, left 600 Jews homeless and even changed the shape of the street. While the first block-and-a-half of Żydowska Street still retains its original medieval width, the rest was widened after this disaster.
The Jewish community itself also began to change. After the fire, Prussian authorities allowed them to settle freely throughout the city, and in the mid-18th century Jews were granted full equal rights as citizens. These changes led to a strengthening of bonds between Poznań’s German and Jewish communities, and the latter began embracing German culture and language. At the start of the 20th century, both communities also built extravagant new symbols of their strength and prosperity. | I-6.
:Former ‘New’ Synagogue
The fortunes of Poznań’s Jewish community peaked in the early 20th century with the building of a grand new synagogue. Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein, the monumental Neo-Romanesque red brick structure held 1200 worshipers, and featured a richly decorated interior,
numerous copulas and a copper-plated dome. It was completed in 1907 - a few years before the Imperial Castle (p.83), which was under construction simultaneously; both were symbolic of Prussian prosperity, and became the dominating landmarks of their respective ends of town.
Ironically, Poznań had one of the smallest Jewish communities in Poland at the outbreak of World War II - only 1500-3000 people, or less than 1% of its population (most major Polish cities were 25-35% Jewish at that time). Due to their assimilation under Prussian rule, Poznań’s Jews didn’t support the Poles in the Wielkopolska Uprising, and when the city became Polish (and Catholic) again, a vast majority of them emigrated west to Germany, expecting greater tolerance there.
As we know, such tolerance evaporated under the German Nazi regime, which invaded and occupied Poznań in September 1939. The city itself had no wartime Jewish ghetto, instead deporting its Jewish population east to large ghettos in Łódź, Warsaw and other cities, and eventually to Nazi-run death camps.
When Poznań’s other synagogues were destroyed in 1939, the New Synagogue was gutted, its dome dismantled, and its interior converted into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Nazi Wehrmacht officers. Cheeklily dubbed the ‘swimagogue,’ it incredibly continued in this role until 2011, despite being reclaimed by the Jewish community in 2002. Plans for its restoration were often drawn, but never found sufficient funding over the years, and the Jewish community’s sale of the building to a developer in 2019 has likely sealed its fate. Although no works have yet been undertaken, permission has been granted for its conversion into apartments, and the building’s current slide into total ruin seems deliberate. Today Poznań’s last synagogue serves as a symbol not only of the tragedy of the Holocaust, but also the complete neglect of Poznań’s Jewish heritage.
I-6, ul. Wroniecka 17.
For more on Poznań’s Jewish history and heritage sites, visit our website.
The 'New' Synagogue as it looked before WWII. [National Digital Archive, Poland.]
;Former Old Town Walls
Like most medieval European cities, Poznań was snugly encircled by defensive walls and a moat. First mentioned in documents from 1253, the thick brick walls were gradually improved and even successfully thwarted an invasion by John of Bohemia in 1331. At its 15th-century peak this defensive perimeter measured 1700 metres and included 35 towers and 4 city gates. Manning the towers was the responsibility of the city’s various guilds, leading to names like the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower and Cloth Tower (to name a few). By the 17th century, however, they had outlived their usefulness, and the Prussians began dismantling them in 1797. This stretch of fortifications has been partially preserved and rebuilt, and makes for a lovely stroll along the bed of the former city moat. | H/I-6.
<Fire Station
Aside from preventing invasions, the spotting of fires was an important job of any tower guard. As such, it’s appropriate that a fire station was eventually built here along the former site of the city’s watchtowers. Completed in 1887, this brick Neo-Gothic beauty
features a tall tower with a tiny observation deck at its peak. Also don’t miss the charming iron sign hanging from the facade on Masztalarska Street. Lovingly refurbished, the station building is still in use by the fire department, and a modern station from 2004, handsomely designed to match its predecessor, stands just on the other side of the former moat. H-6, ul. Masztalarska 3.
Choose Your Adventure!
Duck through the passageway to Plac Wielkopolska to experience a Polish farmer’s market. Amongst the 200 stalls you can get everything from sweets to sweatpants, but also fresh fruit and veggies.
Take a break in a nearby cafe like Antresola (Masztalarska 7A) or Jaglana (Kramarska 1/5); or check out Dragon Social Club (Zamkowa 3) - one of Poznań’s most alternative bars, with a hidden beer garden - on your way up to the Royal Castle (#13).
Take a stroll through the former moat along the Old Town walls. [Photo by Mateusz Woźniak.]
=Royal Castle
From the moment he decided to found Poznań on the left bank of the Warta, Duke of Wielkopolska Przemysł I envisioned a grand castle overlooking the city from which to rule. In fact, construction began on Przemysł’s castle in 1249 - four years before the city was even laid out. Set atop what would become known as ‘Przemysł Hill’ (Góra Przemysła), his dream was soon realised. However, it was his son Przemysł II (born in the castle) who would transform Poznań’s castle from a ducal residence to a royal residence by reuniting Poland’s fragmented dukedoms and becoming the first Polish king in over 200 years. After a round of upgrades and expansions in the early 14th century, this was the largest castle in the country, boasting a 63-metre tower. It received a Renaissance refit in the 16th century and its halls hosted many important events, from royal weddings to state visits to signed treaties, before a series of misfortunes befell it beginning in the early 18th century, culminating in its utter obliteration during World War II.
Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value was undervalued, perhaps due to the untenable prospect of faithfully restoring it. Nonetheless, between 2010 and 2016 it was completely reconstructed and now once again presides over the city, looking quite dashing, if a bit too much like a reconstruction.
Inside you’ll learn less about it than you just did here. Lacking any original interiors, today the Castle is merely a vessel for the rather excellent Applied Arts Museum - showcasing outstanding examples of decorative furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glass, weaponry and clothing from the Middle Ages to the present. All the finery demonstrates Europe’s changing tastes and trends over time, but may not hold the interest of youngsters for long. A museum ticket is the only way to access the observation deck at the top of the 43m tower; the views are worth it, but the 185-step climb is arduous (and the elevator is broken). Visiting time: 90mins.
H-7. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon.
>Franciscan Church
Built over half a century, from 1674 to 1728, the rather bland buttercup exterior of this church belies an absolute explosion of Baroque over-indulgence within. Decorated by local power tandem Adam and Antoni Swach, the sheer flamboyance of the interiors is worth seeing, but pilgrims flock inside for a glimpse of the church’s famous 18th-century painting, ‘Virgin Mary the Miracle-Worker,’ also known as the Lady of Poznań.
H-7, ul. Franciszkańska 2. Open 07:00-19:00.
?Model of Old Poznań
If you thought the polychrome cherubs of the Swach brothers were impressive, the basement of the Franciscan Church (accessed via a side entrance from Ludgardy Street) harbours a unique masterwork from the early-21st century: an enormous 3D model of Poznań, meticulously hand-crafted by Krzysztof Przybyła (take a bow, sir). Built on a scale of 1:150, the 50m2 model shows Poznań as it looked in 1618, and took 6 years to create. Hobbyists and historians will be thrilled, but so should anyone closely following this tour, as you’ll see the Collegiate Church (p.54) and the Royal Castle in its heyday. Shows are timed, 27mins long, and enhanced with audio commentary and dated visual effects, including dry ice simulating smoke. Charmingly antiquated, but worth it for those who appreciate incredible craftsmanship.
H-7, ul. Ludgardy 1. First show at 11:45; last at 16:15. Admission 35/25zł.
@Poznan Lancer Monument
Just outside the entrance to the Models exhibit you’ll see a feisty fellow on horseback atop a large column. This monument commemorates the prestigious Poznań Lancers Regiment, which was formed during the Wielkopolska Uprising (1919) and based in Łazarz during the interwar period (see p.108, 110). Renowned for their valor in the PolishSoviet War (1919-1920), this crack unit fought on horses with spears in an age of firearms, tanks and planes. Go figure. | H-7.
Choose Your Adventure!
On your right, and featuring some incredible sgraffito, is the back of the Poznań National Museum. Technically outside of the Old Town, turn right on Paderewskiego Street to connect with our walking tour of the ‘City Centre’ (p.72).
Turn left on Paderewskiego to return to the Old Town Square, and don’t miss the 1912 mosaic clock on the side of the Neo-Baroque complex of former Prussian administrative buildings, today the Pacha nightclub.
If it aint Baroque...fix it? [Photo by Mikołaj Borowicz.]
OLD TOWN
Eat & Drink
Gastronomy has taken a leap forward across Poznań, which recently became the third Polish city (after Kraków and Warsaw) to be included in the Michelin Guide. A showcase for the latest culinary trends, Poznań’s food scene is typified by cosy restaurants offering Polish comfort food, and, oddly enough, an abundance of chic Asian eateries. What follows are our recommendations within the Old Town; for full details, visit our website.
MORNING
Jaglana
H-7, ul. Kramarska 1/5
This health conscious cafe can accommodate whatever your dietary restrictions with their range of early eats, sweets, tasty lunches and superfood smoothies.
012
MO.BAR
I-6, ul. Wroniecka 18
Great for lunch, dinner or drinks, we most enjoy this classy Art Deco resto for their creative, delicious breakfast options (served from 10:00).
1254
Weranda Caffe
I-7, ul. Świętosławska 10
A warm, cosy cafe with a summer cottage vibe and lovely courtyard garden. Breakfast is served all day, plus sharing plates and proper meals. Recommended.
0129
DINING
Bankcook
H-7, Stary Rynek 68
This popular local franchise cooks up sweet, spicy Asian dishes in a groovy, modern interior. The market square seating is also great for a sundown cocktail.
249
Just
Friends
H-7, Stary Rynek 80/82
Ideal for families and fun with friends, this market square eatery is all about sharing, serving variable portions of local specialties, contemporary cuisine and oversized drinks.
2849
Kulinarna Kamienica
H-8, ul. Podgórna 13
Opening in August, this unique food hall is located over 2 floors of a historic Secessionist townhouse. Enter to find 10 global food concepts, 3 bars, a year-round garden, and more.
0289
Kunst
I-7, Stary Rynek 6
A high-concept, minimal fine diner, offering 6- or 9-course tasting menus based on native, seasonal ingredients, served by the chef himself (closed Mon, Tue).
65
Vis a Vis Koziołków I-7, Stary Rynek 40
See the Town Hall goats (at 12:00 and 15:00) while enjoying local tastes like duck confit, the popular goose burger, or even a St. Martin’s croissant. Savvy move.
129
Zindo Sushi
I-7, ul. Kramarska 15
Swing by this simple eatery for a huge array of authentic Japanese and Korean specialties, daily lunch offers and an all-day all-you-caneat sushi buffet.
2
DRINKING
Brovaria
This sophisticated market square microbrewery has established itself as a winner thanks to premium food and brews. A golonka and a pils and you’re set.
1289
Dragon Social Club
H-7, ul. Zamkowa 3
This quirky, cult bar attracts an artsy, alternative crowd with a cool atmosphere, regular concerts, DJs and other events, plus a great courtyard beer garden.
28739
Dram
H-7, Stary Rynek 92
Catch live music every night (18:00) in this spirited, sophisticated dramhouse that enjoys changing its creative cuisine and cocktail menus.
2439
Ministerstwo Browaru
G-6, ul. Wroniecka 16
Split over two spaces with a garden in between, head to this veteran multi-tap for delicious local beers and tasty sandwiches (reuben, pastrami, pulled pork).
289
Piwna Stopa
I-6, ul. Szewska 7
This dark, dingy, lovable pub serves pimped-out hot dogs and over 170 beers, with 16 on draught. Get started before sundown in their huge garden.
89
DANCING
Cuba Libre
H-8, ul. Wrocławska 21
Get into the Latin groove in the breezy upstairs cocktail bar, before heading down to dance the night away with the international upfor-it-all-night crowd.
479
Pacha
H-7, ul. Paderewskiego 10
Queue up for a bankable ‘big night out’ inside this famous clubbing franchise with 3 dancefloors, highprofile resident DJs, hired dancers and a diverse crowd.
7
City Centre
Boldly developed under Prussian rule, Poznań’s energy and ambitions were redirected here in the 19th century. With wide streets and monumental buildings, it remains the vibrant, modern center of the city’s cultural life today.
Without your own wings, this is the best view you'll get of the horse atop the Grand Theatre (p.81). [Photo by Małgorzata Bartczak.]
After assuming power following the Second Partition of Poland in 1792, Prussian authorities aimed to strengthen ties with Berlin, fortify the city against potential attack from Russia (Poznań was now on the border), and redevelop the area west of the Old Town into a model German city, with numerous parks, monumental municipal buildings and a military
presence. A massive stronghold was built north of the Old Town (today Citadel Park, p.18), and a ring of modern fortifications was built around the new City Centre. The newly demarcated area inside became the site of ongoing cultural competition between Poles and Germans and is home to some of Poznań’s most characteristic buildings today.
City Centre North Walking Tour
Our walking tour begins just meters from where the Old Tour tour terminates, and is divided into two parts, north and south. With its inclusion of the ‘Imperial Quarter’ (p.80), the northern route is essential for visitors, and - covering less than 1.5km - should only occupy 1-2hrs. You’ll find gastronomy recommendations along this route together with those in the southern part on p.94.
1Plac Wolności (Freedom Square)
Laid out at the very end of the 18th century, this large rectangular space was to be the centre of the new Prussian ‘Posen’ (as the Germans called Poznań). In order to create it, Musza Hill - and the Jewish cemetery occupying it since the 1500s - was completely leveled. Named ‘Wilhelmsplatz’ in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, the square was designed to accommodate thousands of troops during military drills and parades. Over the years, however, it developed into Poznań's new commercial and cultural heart.
Throughout the 19th century, some of Poznań’s most representative buildings were erected around the square. The Germans built a grand Municipal Theatre, today known as the Arkadia building, at the west end. The Poles built two mainstays of Polish culture in the Raczyński Library and the monumental Bazar building, which housed
a hotel and exclusively Polish-owned shops (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10). The Germans countered by putting the Emperor Friedrich III Museum - today the main branch of the Poznań National Museumdirectly between them. Essentially this new public space became the economic, political and cultural hub for both camps, and a favourite leisure spot for the upper classes.
Over the years, the square became the site of the first Prussian monuments in Poznań (pulled down after the Wielkopolska Uprising) and no less than six name changes as the city flipped back and forth between German and Polish control, with a stint as ‘Plac Napoleona’ during the Duchy of Warsaw days (1807-1815). Today it is dominated by the ‘Freedom Fountain,’ an odd 9-metre-high structure of glass, metal, LEDs and water that you can walk through the centre of. Erected in 2012, it’s perfect for dipping your feet on a hot summer day. | G/H-7.
We're not sure exactly what to say about this sculpture, but it is very liberated.
Raczyński Library
Opened in 1829, this was one of the most important Polish institutions during the Prussian era, and houses one of Poland’s most precious literary collections today. Founded by Count Edward Raczyński, the library’s aim was to cultivate and preserve Polish identity through science, culture and the arts, and its classicist design was based on Paris’ Louvre. Raczyński was one of Poznań’s most important politicians and philanthropists, who also founded the city’s first hospital and waterworks in a bid to improve public health (a statue of Raczyński’s wife as Hygieia, the Greek goddess of cleanliness, stands in front of the library today). One of his more curious projects was a ‘Home for the Ostensibly Dead,’ where corpses would be laid with a bell tied to their toes to alert a guard if they suddenly reanimated - an effort to assuage hysteria over being buried alive. Raczyński also financed the Cathedral’s Golden Chapel (p.45), but controversy over the project sent him spinning into depression. A fan of reenacting maritime battles for the public on his private lake, one day in 1845 he boarded his ship and became the only person in history to commit suicide by blowing their head off with a naval cannon.
Something about a library…? Ah, yes. Founded on the private collections of Raczyński and his wife, it quickly grew through donations to hold
some 200,000 tomes. Tragically, 90% of these were torched during WWII, but not before 17,000 of the most valuable were spirited to the family estate by Edward’s cousin, Józef Raczyński. The library was rebuilt after the war, and a modern wing was added in 2013. Today it is Poland’s oldest public library, and also one of its largest. If you’re the kind of person who likes popping into public buildings, the beautiful mix of neoclassical ornamentation and modern elements rewards. In the summer you can also access the terrace overlooking Plac Wolności and have a nap in a deckchair with a book in your lap; is there anything better?
H-7, Pl. Wolności 19. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission free.
3National Museum
Built in 1904 to a design by Karl Hinckeldeyn, the massive stature of this building was meant to eclipse that of the neighbouring Bazar Hotel and Raczyński Library, and serve as a counterbalance to the latter by promoting German culture. The eclectic exterior decorations vary on each side, with golden mosaics near the windows and lovely reliefs around the west-facing front door, large mosaics on the south side, and a glorious example of sgraffito on the east side (the highlight). Originally called the Emperor Frederick III Museum, it was created to exhibit several museum collections under one roof, and is today the main branch of the Poznań National Museum, which houses one of the largest painting collections in Poland. For more info, see p.31. | H-7.
Outside Raczyński Library. [Photo by Natalia Górska.]
Inside Raczyński Library. [Photo by Sławomir Szady.]
4
Arkadia
Much like the architectural rivals on the east side of the square, the German Municipal Theatre was built in direct response to the success of the Polish Theatre (#5), which preceded it by only a few years. In fact, a theatre had already stood here since 1804, but its design was unpopular with actors and audiences, leaving the Germans with nowhere satisfactory to stage plays. With funding from the Prussian king, and a government loan granted on the condition that performances would be in German only, the old building was razed and this new neoclassical theatre was opened in 1879. Although praise-worthy in appearance, it proved equally unpopular as a performance space, and authorities soon green-lit yet another theatre building elsewhere (the Grand Theatre, p.81), renovating this one into various commercial spaces in 1911. During the swinging interwar years it was home to the fashionable Arkadia Cafe - a name which has stuck with it ever since.
Today the building is home to many businesses, including an Empik bookstore, alternative theatre company and tourist information office, but there are few places more iconic and inviting than the patio
overlooking the square underneath the neon sign proclaiming ‘Wolność’ (Freedom). Oh, you’re sitting down already, good for you. | G-7.
5
Photoplasticon
Located inside the Cultural Information Centre (CIK), this is the kind of short, charming, nostalgic diversion we heartily endorse. Invented in the 1880s, a photoplasticon (aka ‘kaiserpanorama’ or ‘fotoplastykon’) is a large wood-paneled drum that displays stereoscopic photographs - 3D images created by merging two photos of the same subject taken at slightly different angles. Viewing stations with special lenses line the outside of the drum and the images rotate, creating a vintage 3D slideshow. Although these precursors to modern cinema were quickly made obsolete, there were an estimated 250 operating across Europe in the early-20th century. Today only a few have survived, including this one, which is over 100 years old. Give it a whirl, and while you’re there, check out the books and souvenirs on offer. Visiting time: 20mins.
G-7, ul. Ratajczaka 44. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:0017:00; closed Sun. Admission 6/3zł.
The Arkadia Building on Plac Wolności. [Photo by Małgorzata Kolasa.]
Polish Theatre (Teatr Polski)
This theatre is an important symbol of Polish national identity, born at a time when Polish culture was being suppressed in Poznań. Ironically, as city authorities removed the Polish language from schools and churches, and arrested Polish activists and priests (including the Archbishop), the creation of the Polish Theatre was only possible thanks to the lifting of a ban on non-Germanlanguage stage performances. The result of a strong campaign that brought in donations from all parts of the partitioned Polish lands, the Polish Theatre was created not only for the elite, but for all of Polish society. The ‘Naród sobie’ inscription on the facade conveys the building’s ‘by the people, for the people’ origins and philosophy.
Inaugurated in 1875, the monumental Renaissance-inspired building was originally set in a courtyard with a fountain in front of it, behind a long, grand Polish-owned tenement building that was rented out to fund the theatre’s operation. Although the theatre largely escaped damage during World War II, the frontage buildings did not, and they were eventually torn down in the 1970s, creating the wide sidewalks and greenery along the street today. | G-7.
[Photo by Maciej Pszczoła.]
7
Okrąglak & Kwadraciak (Rounder & Boxer)
The intersection of 27 Grudnia, Mielżyńskiego and Gwarna streets brings us out of the Prussian period momentarily and into the epicentre of Modernist Poznań. Standing front and centre is the ‘Okrąglak’ rotunda, named for its round shape. Completed in 1954 to a blueprint by Marek Leykam, this cylindrical marvel is eight stories high with an incredible spiral staircase curling skyward at its centre, at the top of which is a 360-degree openair roof terrace. Bucking the socialist realist trends of the day with its modernist design, this was once Poznań’s top department store; it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. After years of neglect, it was revitalised into modern office space in 2012 and is once again one of the city’s defining landmarks. Although not necessarily open to the public, do wriggle inside to see its photogenic staircase, and try to talk your way up to the roof.
Just next door, also take notice of the ‘Kwadraciak’ (Little Square) office building, which features a similar modernist facade. Other examples of Le Corbusier-inspired modernist architecture within view include the ‘Domar’ building at 27 Grudnia 17/19 (built 1963), and the revitalised ‘Dom Książki’ (House of Books) at Gwarna 13 (b. 1975). | F-7.
8
Church of the Holy Saviour
This former Evangelical Church was built in 1869 thanks to a ‘magnificent contribution’ from King Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia himself, and was symbolic of Protestant power in Poznań. Sadly, most of the interiors were destroyed during World War II, after which it was patched up by Catholic Poles and renamed. Today it is one of the finest examples of Neo-Gothic architecture in Poland, and its 70m tower makes it Poznań’s tallest church. Despite the height, the church was quickly dwarfed in its day by the ‘Imperial Quarter,’ which you are now entering (turn the page). | F-7.
The interior stairwell of this modernist marvel is just as impressive. [Photo by Przemysław Turlej.]
The Imperial Quarter
The western side of Poznań’s centre was rapidly developed in the early 20th century to shift the city’s focus away from its historic (Polish) heart in Ostrów Tumski and the Old Town, and reorient it towards a modern, German future. Grand, imposing architecture and wide open spaces were designed to impress newcomers arriving from Berlin and mark the city as a proud part of the German Empire.
In the 19th century, the Prussians put immense resources into making Poznań one of Europe’s most fortified cities. Known as ‘Festung Posen,’ the city’s inner defensive ring was completed in the 1860s, limiting residents’ access to the outside world to fourteen city gates, only three of which were open at night. By the 1890s, however, these fortifications - like the medieval walls around the Old Town (p.66) - were considered obsolete, and in 1902 Kaiser Wilhelm II authorised their demolition.
Rising in their place would be a new, prestigious district representing a 19th-century vision of Germanity, and reorienting Poznań to the west. Centred around a grand square, the district would be crowned by the Emperor’s own residence (p.83), and encircled by a belt of parks laid out on the former fort lines. Built with stunning speed between 1902 and 1912, this area of grand German architecture is today known as Poznań’s ‘Imperial Quarter’ (Dzielnica Cesarska) or ‘Castle District.’
Contemporary view of the Imperial Castle and Philharmonic. [Photo by Małgorzata Cieślak.]
9
Collegium Maius
More than any other, this building represents the determined efforts to Germanise the historically Polish lands of Wielkopolska. Built between 1908 and 1910 as the headquarters of the Prussian Colonisation Commission, this commanding structure served as the administrative hub of a state-sponsored campaign to populate the region with ethnic Germans. The Commission provided land, credit, and other incentives to settlers, while simultaneously working to curtail Polish landownership and cultural influenceefforts that were met with staunch and surprisingly effective resistance from the Polish population.
Architecturally, the building is a striking example of German Historicism with Neo-Renaissance elements, designed to impress would-be colonists and assert imperial authority. After World War II, the large symbolic German figures atop the pillars of its distinctive dome were removed. Other overtly German elements were also stripped, and since 1951 the building has belonged to Adam Mickiewicz University (aka Poznań University or UAM). Though no longer the main seat of the university that its Latin name suggests, Collegium
Maius remains an important academic centre, housing several faculties and departments. As such, this former tool of Germanisation has been thoroughly recontextualised as a proud institution of modern Polish academic life. | F-6/7.
:Grand Theatre (Teatr Wielki)
Built in 1910 as a counterpart to the Imperial Castle (#13), and to replace the outdated Arkadia building (p.76), the new Municipal Theatre stood as a proud symbol of German cultural prestige for barely a decade. In 1919, following the success of the Wielkopolska Uprising, Poznań returned to Polish control, and the theatre was recontextualised within the newly independent nation.
Designed by Max Littmann, the building boasts a neoclassical façade with a grand six-column portico, flanked by two stone lions and crowned by a sculpture of Pegasus. The interior reflects a more ‘democratic’ ethos, with an auditorium notably free of balcony boxes. Though undoubtedly ‘grand,’ the name is a bit of a misnomer - since 1924 it has functioned as Poznań’s Opera House | F-6.
Grand Theatre and Mickiewicz Park. [Photo by Małgorzata Cieślak.]
;Mickiewicz Park & Square
Across from the Grand Theatre, Mickiewicz Park - built upon a former bastion of Poznań Fortress - leads to the Imperial Quarter’s central square, which also bears the name of Poland’s revered Romantic poet and patriot, Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855). Notably, Wielkopolska is the only region in present-day Poland that the national bard ever visited, passing through Poznań in 1831 en route to join the November Uprising against Russian rule. His failure to reach the front lines before the insurrection’s collapse deeply influenced his greatest literary works, which denounce imperialism and elevate the Polish struggle for independence into national myth. Fittingly, he now stands tall upon a square originally dominated by a towering statue of Otto von Bismarck - the ‘Iron Chancellor’ known for his repressive anti-Polish policies.
As symbolic as Mickiewicz is, he's actually dwarfed on his own square by the Monument to the Victims of June 1956 - a soaring tribute to the first uprising against communist rule in Poland. On June 28, 1956, a protest against poor conditions and unfair wages by employees of Poznań’s Cegielski factories escalated into a massive anti-communist demonstration involving over 100,000 citizens. Although brutally suppressed by the state, resulting in at least 70 deaths and hundreds of injuries, the uprising exposed public resistance to the regime and would inspire future movements across the Eastern Bloc. Learn more at the 1956 Uprising Museum (p.31), located in the Imperial Castle. | E-7.
<Collegium Minus
Constructed between 1905 and 1910, this striking academic complex was originally part of the German imperial plan to establish a new university –the Royal Academy of Posen. Like other buildings in the Imperial District, however, the vision of its creators was short-lived, and it was turned over to Polish authorities in 1919. An excellent example of German Historicist architecture, with its symmetrical brick and sandstone façade, elegant arcades and distinctive clock tower, the building’s true showpiece is the magnificent aula inside. Boasting superb acoustics and an organ ranked among the finest in the country, Collegium Minus’ richly decorated concert hall regularly hosts public events, and serves as the home stage of the acclaimed Poznań Philharmonic Orchestra.
A cornerstone of Poznań’s academic and cultural life, Collegium Minus is today the heart of Adam Mickiewicz University – the city’s premier higher education institution, whose spiritual predecessors were the 17th-century Jesuit College (p.52), and 16th-century Lubrański Academy (p.42) before that. Officially founded in 1919, today UAM enrolls nearly 30,000 students and is consistently ranked among Poland’s top three universities. | E-7.
[Photo by Dominika Szemiel.]
=Imperial Castle
The Imperial Quarter’s pièce de résistance, of course, is the Imperial Castle (Zamek Cesarski). Constructed between 1905 and 1910 for German Emperor Wilhelm II, this was the last monarchical residence built in Europe. The castle’s Neo-Romanesque style, Germanic motifs and imperial grandeur - including a 74m clocktower - were all meant to impress dignitaries while projecting Prussian power in a city historically tied to Polish identity.
Despite all the symbolic flexing, Wilhelm II visited only four times before the Wielkopolska Uprising flipped Poznań back under independent Polish rule in 1919. In the interwar period, the castle became the seat of the newly established Poznań University, before the Third Reich marched in and Hitler’s pet architect Albert Speer began remodeling it as a grand residence for Der Führer, complete with an office modeled on Hitler’s in Berlin. Ultimately, Hitler never set foot inside.
Badly damaged during the 1945 Battle of Poznań, the post-war years saw heated debate over whether to demolish the site. In the end, authorities opted to strip it of its overt imperial symbolism and reduced the main tower to a third of its original height.
Today the Castle is home to Centrum Kultury Zamek (CK Zamek) - one of the largest cultural institutions in Poland, hosting over 2500 events annually, including concerts, exhibits, films, theatre, workshops, and more (check ckzamek.pl for the current programme). Visitors enter via the East Wing, which has been extensively modified into exhibition, performance, and projection spaces, all surrounding a striking glass atrium with a café and bookstore. In the lobby, you can buy tickets for current exhibits or pay for a self-guided tour of the castle’s more historic West Wing (brochure/map 7zł; audioguide 15/12zł). Although virtually nothing remains of the original furnishings, the empty interiors still convey an air of austere grandeur, and the café is a pleasant pit stop. Visiting time: 30 mins.
Beyond that, you’ll find the 1956 Uprising Museum (p.31) in the basement, and several bars and clubs with external entrances along the east and west façades, including popular venues like the Dubliner Irish Pub, Lokum Stonewall (LGBTQ+) and Blue Note Jazz Club. The castle gardens are also open to the public, and the Rose Courtyard fountain - inspired by the Court of Lions in the Alhambra - is one of the few original features to survive WWII intact. | F-7. Castle open 12:00-22:00
Prussian hygge: Wilhelm II's four-tonne marble throne inside the Imperial Castle.
>Former Land Credit Society
The Imperial Castle and the two monumental buildings directly across the street were all designed by Franz Schwechten as a complementary suite of Neo-Romanesque structures. Constructed simultaneously, all three opened in 1910, forming the architectural backbone of the Imperial Quarter.
Ironically, the Land Credit Society (Ziemstwo Kredytowe) was originally established in 1821 by Polish landowners seeking to maintain economic autonomy under Prussian rule. By the time this grand new headquarters was erected, however, Prussian authorities had largely restructured the institution into a tool of Germanisation, working hand-in-hand with the Colonisation Commission (p.81) to facilitate the transfer of land from Polish to German hands.
Today, the building houses the offices of the Poznań Philharmonic, established in 1931, which actually uses the Aula at Collegium Minus (#12) as its primary concert hall. After dark, the façade is illuminated by a splendid neon installation featuring a treble clef and a series of brightly coloured birds playfully fluttering along a fiveline musical staff. Installed in 1974, this animated artwork honours the Poznań Nightingales (Poznańskie Słowiki) - a celebrated men’s and boys’ choir founded in 1939 by 19-year-old Stefan Stuligrosz. The choir gained renown for its clandestine performances during the Nazi occupation and was formally embraced by the
Philharmonic after the war, with Stuligrosz serving as its artistic director until his death in 2012. Today the ensemble continues to perform internationally, with nearly 100 active members.
F-7, ul. Św. Marcin 81.
?
Post Office Directorate
Unlike the rusticated limestone of the Imperial Castle, the former Land Credit Society and Post Office Directorate buildings both feature smoother sandstone façades, while still bearing the Germanic motifs and allegorical details typical of the Imperial Quarter. Of these, the most prominent surviving element is the large figure at the Kościuszko Street entrance of the Post Office building, which was transformed from ‘Germania’ into ‘Polonia’ by simply switching the emblem on the shield she holds. Huzzah!
Today, the former Prussian Post Office Directorate is in the hands of the Polish Postal Service (Poczta Polska), and part of it still operates as a functioning public post office, meaning you can step inside, search for other historical details, and experience the unique atmosphere that results when imperial grandeur collides with glacial bureaucracy.
F-7, ul. Kościuszko 77.
Choose Your Adventure!
Complete a small loop by heading back east towards the Old Town (on foot or tram) via Św. Marcin Street - one of Poznań’s main boulevards.
Head just minutes west over the train tracks to meet the trailhead of our Jeżyce walking route. Jump to p.96 to explore this hip residential neighbourhood.
Turn the page to step into the southern part of our thorough City Centre tour, which eventually brings you to the bottom of the Old Town for a satisfying, convenient conclusion.
Perhaps it’s time to let your barking feet and tummy be your guide? Turn to p.94 for our recommendations on where to rest and refuel nearby.
The former Land Credit Society. [Photo by Borzpoz.]
Św. Marcin Street
This broad, representative street gained prominence during the era of the Poznań Fortress, when it formed the main artery between the Old Town and the Berlin Gate - the city’s primary exit toward Berlin and its original train station in Jeżyce (p.98). Located almost exactly between where the Imperial Castle and Post Office Directorate stand today, the Berlin Gate was flanked by a drawbridge over a deep moat. If you follow Św. Marcin Street westward today, it’s not hard to imagine that old moat flowing where the train tracks now run.
The name Święty Marcin (St. Martin) originates from a small 12th-century settlement clustered around St. Martin’s Church, located at the east end of the street (H-8, ul. Św. Marcin 13). Documents from 1132 reveal that St. Martin’s was the only parish on the left bank of the Warta River at that time. Originally just outside the Old Town’s medieval walls, the suburb of St.
Martin was officially incorporated into Poznań by the Prussians in 1797.
Today, St. Martin is arguably more celebrated than ever. On his feast day, November 11, Św. Marcin Street hosts a massive street party and parade, and thousands of rogale świętomarcińskie (St. Martin’s croissants, p.24) are baked and devoured across the city.
Extensive damage to the tenements along Św. Marcin during World War II allowed for its widening, but also the construction of the infamous Alfa complex (F/G-7, ul. Św. Marcin 40–72). Built between 1965 and 1972, this modernist ensemble of five high-rise apartment blocks connected by a sprawling, two-level shopping gallery is widely blamed for ruining the street. Although recent renovations have certainly improved things, go judge for yourself.
[Photo by Marcin Borzpoz.]
City Centre South
Although less laden with marquee landmarks, the southwest part of Poznań’s city centre is no less vital. In fact, it’s here that you’ll find much of Poznań’s academic life, commercial activity and gastronomic culture (p.94) focused. Rather than a rigidly structured walking route, in this section we’ve highlighted the main points of interest in the area between where our City Centre North Walking Tour ended (p.84), and our Old Town Walking Tour begins (p.51). Follow your interests and intuition and we’re sure you’ll end up at more than a few of the sites listed.
1
Marcinkowski Park
Like Mickiewicz Park (p.82), this historic green space was laid out on the liquidated fortifications of the former Poznań Fortress, which accounts for its triangular shape. Designed in 190506 by German urban planner Joseph Stübben, it formed part of a green belt encircling the southern edge of the newly created Imperial Quarter (p.80). Along Al. Niepodległości, the park is lined with many significant academic and institutional buildings, most notably the Poznań Railway Directorate (Al. Niepodległości 8) - completed in 1915 in Neo-Baroque style; and the main building of the University of Economics (Al. Niepodległości 10), completed in 1932 by Polish architect Adam Ballenstedt. Approximately 9.5ha (23.5 acres) today, the park features a playground in the north
end, and a skate park in the south. A large pond lined with weeping willows has been one of the park’s main features since its inception.
Near the pond stands the only surviving trace of the Poznań Fortress’s inner polygonal core: the former blockhouse of Bastion IV, also known as Bastion Colomb. Built in 1854, this compact combat shelter lined with gun ports served as the last point of resistance in the event of an enemy breach. Buried underground for over 90 years, the structure was unearthed and restored in 1998. Today it houses Fort Colomb - a unique pub with vaulted interiors and a large beer garden.
Across the street towards the train station, a large monument commemorates the expulsion of Poles from Wielkopolska during World War II. Part of a resettlement programme which aimed to Germanise Nazi-annexed Wielkopolska by deporting Poles and replacing them with ethnic Germans from the east, some 630,000 people had their property confiscated and were sent on transports to the ‘General Government’ (Polish lands formerly partitioned by AustriaHungary, now administrated separately by Nazi Germany), where many ended up in ghettos and concentration camps. Those who survived often returned to find their homes occupied or destroyed altogether. The Wielkopolska expulsions left lasting scars on families and communities, many of whom were never able to fully rebuild their lives. Unveiled in 2024, this monument takes the form of a bas-relief depicting a crowd in anguish over their forced displacement. | F-7/8.
[Photo by Klaudia Kurzec.]
2
Collegium Altum & WWII Bunker
We’ll be honest, Collegium Altum only merits inclusion here as the answer to your burning question: What the heck is that? Oddly covered in metal red plates, and perhaps a bit too visible in Poznań’s skyline, it’s part of the University of Economics, specifically the Television Broadcasting Centre (tower) and University Library (lower level). Designed back in 1968, the building took an astonishing 27 years to complete, making it outdated from the moment it opened. With the building’s antenna reaching a height of 103m, this was actually Poznań’s tallest skyscraper before the recent building of the AND2 Tower near Stary Browar (116m).
Moving from the conspicuous to the inconspicuous, urban explorers can seek out a sneaky aboveground Nazi bomb shelter hidden in the narrow alley just north of Collegium Altum off of Kościuszki Street. Built by forced Polish labour in 1944, the thick concrete bunker was designed to blend in with the surrounding buildings, and even had fake windows painted on the outside. Its purpose was to protect and prevent the detection of a Siemens-built Nazi communications hub, which included a telephone exchange, railway and radio operations over three floors. After the war it became the property of Polish Railways and took on a civil defense role as tensions between the USA and USSR mounted. The bunker could also serve as shelter for up to 300 civilians in the event of a catastrophe - natural, nuclear or otherwise.
Today the building is still full of machinery, hydraulics, and heavy airtight cast iron doors, giving it a creepy industrial steampunk vibe. Essentially it’s the perfect setting for an escape room business, which it operates as during the day, with 4 riddle-ridden rooms on offer (The Bunkier, thebunkier.pl). Show up after midnight however, and you’ll discover one of Poznań’s best underground electro clubs and concert spaces, where on weekends DJs keep the beats dropping until the last dancer drops (Schron, saveschron.pl). With no cell service penetrating the 2m-thick walls, maybe let someone know if you make that choice, because this incredible place is indeed as difficult to escape as it is unique. | F-8.
3
Taczaka Street & Pasaż Różowy
One of the city centre’s more charming residential lanes, Taczaka Street was created on the site of gardens at the back of Św. Marcin Street and lined with impressive tenement buildings in the years 1874-83. The relative uniformity of the four-storey townhouses, whose design was inspired by French Renaissance architecture, lends a pleasant cohesion and intimacy to the street, which also benefited from revitalisation efforts not long ago: parking was reduced, and trees, flowerbeds, benches and bike racks took their place. Taczaka’s close proximity to academic buildings once made it a popular site for pub crawls, but the student dive bars that once characterised the street have been largely replaced with trendy eateries, brunch spots and beauty salons. Try Taczaka 20 for coffee, Bajzel (Taczaka 23) for breakfast/brunch, and Delikatnie (Taczaka 14) for tapas and wine.
While you’re nearby, also check out Pasaż Różowy (The Pink Passageway) at number 47 - an easy-to-miss covered corridor that connects to Św. Marcin. Essentially a hidden mall lined with shops and services, in the 1990s this was one of the most popular shopping destinations in town, full of garish advertising and all manner of shoddy goods sold by dozens of businesses. Today it has been cleaned up considerably, but also lost some of its energy. Still, it’s worth exploring this strange shopping tunnel for its sheer quirkiness and singularity. Inside you’ll find both the exotic and banal, from copy shops to used books, vintage clothes and video games. | F/G-8.
4Pasaż Apollo
Speaking of hidden passageways, the east side of Taczaka Street leads you directly into one of the city’s most famous: Pasaż Apollo. Unlike the covered Pasaż Różowy, Pasaż Apollo is an open-air pedestrian lane that leads to a more spacious inner courtyard. It was here that Conrad Lambert opened a ‘concert garden’ called the Odeon in 1846. One of the first places of its kind in Poznań, the Odeon Garden served as a park, entertainment and cultural complex where locals could relax outdoors, enjoy food and drink, listen to live music and catch theatrical performances.
Due to its popularity, the site expanded, adding a cinema and theatre plus restaurant in 1884. The grand building is today known as the Apollo, and it hosted the first motion picture screenings in Poznań, a 1901 concert by famous Polish pianist and statesman Ignacy Paderewski, and sessions of the Polish District Sejm - a key political assembly that paved the way for Poland’s regained independence in 1918. As a result, the Apollo - still operating today as both cinema and theatre - has become a patriotic symbol, and its Art Deco interiors offer a glimpse into the city’s early-20th-century cultural scene.
Across from the Apollo, echoes of the original Odeon Garden live on in the leafy beer garden of Czech restaurant Dřevný Kocůr, which even features a carousel. A handful of shops and eateries can also be found in this passageway, which leads on to Piekary Street. | G-8.
Taczaka Street. [Photo by Mieczysław Berlik.]
VISIT FOOD FYRTEL
5
Stary Browar (Old Brewery)
Anchoring the south side of Poznań, Stary Browar is a massive shopping, arts and business centre located on the former site of the Hugger Brewery. Founded in 1844 by Ambrosius Hugger (a man fulfilling the destiny of his name, it seems), the family brewing enterprise was carried on by his sons, who built Hugger into the largest brewery in Wielkopolska, producing 7.2 million litres of beer annually in 1918. After WWII it was nationalised, and had ceased large-scale brewing operations by 1980.
In 1998, the site was purchased by art collector and philanthropist Grażyna Kulczyk, who transformed it from a post-industrial ruin into a dynamic retail and cultural centre, preserving many of its original 19th-century architectural elements and integrating contemporary art into its public spaces. Opened in 2003, Stary Browar was an immediate success, winning numerous design and innovation awards, and setting a new standard for how heritage buildings could be preserved and repurposed. In terms of urban revitalisation and adaptive reuse, Stary Browar was - and remains - a big deal.
It’s also essentially a massive shopping mall, which - while dazzling in its design - is deliberately disorienting. Covering 130,000m², the labyrinthine complex features over 200 shops and restaurants, multiple food courts, a multiplex cinema, a 5-star hotel and an office tower. While there are indeed some cool works of art inside, and a nifty skywalk connecting two of the buildings, changes in ownership have seen Kulczyk’s art centre ambitions relegated to the Pop Culture Gallery - a ticketed exhibition space located in a separate building on the north side of the complex (worth checking out, see p.33).
The north side of Stary Browar also opens directly onto Dąbrowski Park - a 4ha green space on the site of two 19th-century cemeteries which were obliterated during WWII. As it happens, much of the extended family of Paul von Hindenburg - the Poznań-born German WWI hero-turned-president who helped Hitler rise to power - was buried here in graves that are now untraceable. Today it features a playground and offers a welcome respite from both the retail rabbithole of Stary Browar and high street chaos of adjacent Półwiejska Street. | G-9.
North side of Stary Browar. [Photo by Mieczysław Berlik.]
Półwiejska Street
If you stick to Poznań’s main tourist areas, you’ll actually miss one of its busiest, most popular streets. Stretching 700m from Poznań’s emerging business district and Stary Browar in the south, to Plac Wiosny Ludów - where eight streets intersect at the edge of the Old Town, this long, bustling pedestrian boulevard is lined with kitsch shops and fast food joints, and generally seems like it’s been socially engineered to attract teenagers and queer folks; in fact, Polish newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza claims it’s the most LGBTQ-friendly street in Poland. They may be on to something, but that’s a very low bar to clear, so don’t get your hopes up, or conversely - don’t fear the rainbow. The fact is, this is Poznań’s most gaudy, kitsch street. Have fun or walk fast.
Of the many venues along Półwiejska, Bimba is worth mentioning. This historic 1950s tram car has stood near Stary Browar since 2017, reminding locals that trams trundled down this street until the 1970s. Step up to the window to try the communistera delicacy ‘buła z pieczarkami,’ aka a mushroom roll. Essentially the Poznań version of a Philly cheesesteak, you get a crispy hoagie roll filled with hot sauteed mushrooms and onions, and squirted with the sauce of your choice for the outrageous price of only 12zł. And you get to cross another cult Poznań street food off your list. | H-8/9.
The Poz-man's cheesesteak from Bimba.
7
Zakrzewski Gardens
This small but lovely park just south of Chopin Park was established on the initiative of local residents in the mid-19th century - a time when the fortified ring of the Poznań Fortress left little room for green spaces in the city centre. One of the city’s oldest public parks, in 2008 it was renovated and named after Zbigniew Zakrzewski - a Polish economist, professor and the author of several books sharing his love for the city he spent most of his life in.
The park features a wonderful fountain and several charming sculpted figures by Norbert Sarnecki which playfully interact with it: a woman gingerly dipping her toe into the waters, and boy and his basset hound standing on the edge of the
pool, and a professor with his hand out anticipating rain. When the fountain is working - which it sadly has not been of late - the spray of water drenches the figure of the professor, and the pool is a great place to cool off on a hot summer day. | I-8.
8Plac Bernardyński
This public square just outside of the Old Town took shape in the 15th century with the building of the Bernardine monastery complex (now Franciscan) that dominates its east side. Until 1939, straw and hay for horses was sold here, and since World War II it has been a small market for fresh produce, after this trade was moved from the Old Town Square. Today it features 28 merchant
Dipping a toe in Zakrzewski Gardens. [Photo by Andrzej Ostrębski.]
stalls (open Mon-Sat 06:00-20:00), which occupy about half of its 2200 square metres, selling mostly fresh fruits and vegetables, but also flowers, clothing and more.
Overlooking the square is the Bernardine Church with its two towers and the large figures of 10 saints fitted into niches in the facade. If you’re here in January, it’s worth knowing that the church sets up one of the largest moving nativity scenes in Europe, with over 250 figures.
Elsewhere, a contemporary art installation of local street artist Noriaki's popular character, The Watcher (aka ‘Pan Peryskop’ or Mr. Periscope)which you should by now be very familiar with from graffiti all over Poznań, and the pages of this guide - has stood on the square since 2023. | I-8.
For more on Poznań street art, including an online map with GPS coordinates of the city’s most prominent murals, follow the link to our website.
Choose Your Adventure!
If you’ve yet to partake (and they haven’t sold out), there are two bakeries that make delicious St. Martin’s croissants (p.24) on the north side of the square.
From here you can easily catch a tram back to Plac Wolnośći (G-7), the Imperial Castle (‘Zamek’ stop, F-7) or Jeżyce (p.96).
You’re also just steps away from beautiful Chopin Park, the back of the Jesuit College (p.53) and the start of our Old Town Walking Tour (p.49).
handmade.poznan@gmail.com
CITY CENTRE
Eat & Drink
While the Old Town caters more to tourists and traditional cuisine, foodies favour the City Centre (and more casual Jeżyce) for modern dining. With most of Poznań’s fanciest restaurants located outside the Old Town, it’s here that locals dress up to dine out, and reservations are always wise. Check the address line in the recommendations below for ‘CC North’ or ‘CC South’ to quickly parse which part of the district they are in
MORNING
Bajzel
G-8, ul. Taczaka 28 (CC South)
This trendy brunch spot on Taczaka offers rich and elaborate breakfast toasts and waffles piled high with yummy ingredients. Make a reservation on weekends.
01
Bo.
F-7, ul. Kościuszki 84 (CC North)
Near the Imperial Castle, this cosy cafe and eatery is a great choice for small groups and families, offering a huge and varied selection of delicious all-day breakfasts.
0129
Kawiarnia U Przyjaciół
F-7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 27/29 (CC North)
A true Poznań original, this literary cafe is worth making a detour for. It’s mostly coffee and cakes, but the artsy atmosphere and lovely garden are incomparable.
09
Stragan
G-7, ul. Ratajczaka 31 (CC North)
Committed to top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, this specialty cafe for coffee purists also offers bagel sandwiches, wine, craft beer, matcha and more.
0159
CASUAL DINING
Ptasie Radio
F-7, ul. Kościuszki 74/3 (CC South)
This avian-themed cafe/resto covers it all from breakfast to seasonal lunches and drinks. The nostalgic twilight atmosphere is great for gossip, judging by the crowd.
0129
Pyra Bar
I-8, ul. Strzelecka 13 (CC South)
A proper Poznań potato bar with a slightly nostalgic PRL sensibility, students flock in for the cheap, filling grub. Try the regional specialties and pick up a souvenir.
289
Pyraland
H-9, ul. Półwiejska 39 (CC South)
This quick, casual eatery near Stary Browar specialises in baked potatoes (pyry) and dumplings (szagówki) with a variety of toppings and sauces. Local fare at a great value.
289
Tygryz
G-7, ul. Ratajczaka 36 (CC North)
Creative vegetarian dishes designed for sharing, a large selection of natural wines and craft beers, plus super friendly service, all add up to our fave dinner spot for special company.
2584
Yan Yu
G-7, ul. 27 Grudnia 9 (CC North)
Polish palettes be damned, this is truly authentic Chinese cuisine, served in an unpretentious setting. The huge menu includes sesame chicken, fried ice cream and Poz’s only Hot Pot.
28 FINE DINING
Figaro
G-8, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (CC South)
Celebrated for its fresh seafood and expansive wine list, this wellrounded upscale Italian restaurant is ideal for romantic repasts and serious business dinners.
26
Fromażeria
G-8, ul. Ratajczaka 27 (CC South)
Split into 2 sides, take your date to the upmarket bistro for an a la carte or tasting menu of cheesy delights, or visit the cheese bar for fancy flights of fromage and wine.
65
MUGA
H-8, ul. Krysiewicza 5 (CC South)
Poznań’s only Michelin star restaurant, MUGA offers delicious and creative tasting menus with wine pairing. A superb slow dining experience.
65
DRINKING
Cooliozum
G-7, ul. Św. Marcin 45 (CC South)
Unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar, Cooliozum has dozens of teles and hundreds of craft beers, plus darts and a highly competitive foosball scene.
8
Lokum Stonewall
F-7, ul. Fredry 7 (CC North)
This straight-friendly gay bar/ queer community centre in the Imperial Castle has it all: food, drinks, dancing and shows, but also one of the most beautiful gardens in Poznań.
128479
Rojber
G-7, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8/5 (CC North)
Over 2 floors of a townhouse, this amazing pub offers an array of fun activities, from axe-throwing to shuffleboard, alongside cocktails and craft beer. Let the games begin!
8
Ulotnie
G-8, ul. Ratajczaka 34 (CC South) Street art, craft beer and cocktails converge to create one of Poznań’s best bars and hippest hangouts. The city’s unique character shines through here.
2849
DANCING
Schron
F-8, ul. Kościuszki 68 (CC South)
Located in an honest-to-god Nazi bunker with 2m-thick walls, Schron is one of the best alternative dance clubs in town, with parties lasting well past breakfast (open Fri & Sat only).
73
Tama
F-9, ul. Niezłomnych 2 (CC South)
Poznań’s biggest, best electronic music club, located in a Polish Art Deco palace from the 1920s, and packed with hundreds of ravers on Fri & Sat.
73
Jeżyce
The west side of the train tracks yields arguably Poznań’s most charming and artistic neighbourhood. Head to Jeżyce for handsome architecture, hip hangouts, great gastronomy, cool street art and real community vibes.
While the centre of Poznań is undoubtedly the place for culture and parties, local life takes place elsewhere. In large cities it’s often the case that an outlying district first attracts the energy of students and artists, then young families and small business owners as it transforms from a gritty, neglected backwater into a hip, bohemian hive of urban activity. In Poznań that district is Jeżyce - a neighbourhood that draws local comparisons to Brooklyn for its contemporary eateries, artsy initiatives and cosy community atmosphere. Brooklyn this most certainly isn’t; after all, you can take a tram or even walk to the centre in mere minutes. But the comparison speaks to both the size and also the charm of this neighbourhood that every Poznaner wishes they lived in.
Although already mentioned in documents from the mid-13th century, Jeżyce really prospered in the 1700s thanks to a large influx of Bamberger immigrants. It was when Poznań’s first train station was built here in 1848, however, that Jeżyce began to develop from a small outlying village into the huge residential district it is today. Technically, Jeżyce covers 22% of Poznań’s total area, stretching
west over an area of almost 58km2 that includes not only Poznań Lawica Airport, but also the Botanical Gardens, Sołacki Park, Lake Rusałka (all on p.16) and beyond. For the purposes of our district overview, ‘Jeżyce’ refers strictly to the old historic neighbourhood (and former village) centred around Rynek Jeżycki (Jeżyce Market Square, p.101).
Points of Interest
Beginning near Rondo Kaponiera, this section sticks to the historical centre of Jeżyce, where much of the Art Nouveau architecture was built at the end of the 19th century. We encourage you to wander freely, taking in the details of the townhouses and keeping your eyes peeled for street art. For some favourite places to eat and hang out, turn to p.103.
1Concordia Printing House & Abakanowicz’s ‘5 Figures’
On the southwest corner of Rondo Kaponeira you’ll find several landmarks, including the Sheraton Hotel and iconic Bałtyk business centre, rising 67m into the sky. In its shadow is something quite the opposite - the Concordia Printing House, whose neo-Baroque palace architecture and Art Nouveau interior belie its former industrial function. Dating back to 1910, it was here that the largest German daily newspaper, Posener Tageblatt, was published until WWII. Today it houses a business centre and the excellent Concordia Taste restaurant; the charming alleyway in front hosts more cafes and eateries, plus an outdoor art exhibit.
Along the sidewalk on the north side of that alleyway, you’ll find five monumental works of art by Magdalena Abakanowicz (1930-2017) - one of Poland’s most influential post-war artists. A professor at the University of Fine Arts, the sculptor and fibre artist is most associated with Poznań, and her work can be seen in several places around the city, including the atrium of the University of Fine Arts, and the Applied Arts Museum (Royal Castle, p.68). These 185cm headless cast-iron figures are typical of her later work, and represent our self-absorbed society, in which everyone goes their own way, blind to their surroundings and the needs of others. If you think these are impressive, you can see 112 such figures clustered together in a massive installation at the centre of Citadel Park (I-3, p.18). | D-7.
2
Old Zoo
One of Poznań’s two zoos, the ‘Old Zoo’ endures as more of a historical relic than the fun family attraction you might be expecting. Dating back to the 1870s, it is one of Poland’s oldest zoos, and has a curious origin story. In the late 19thcentury, Poznań’s first train station stood here, and featured a popular restaurant where a club of lawn bowlers regularly played in the garden. As an elaborate gag, the 12 members all bought the club president animals for his 50th birthdayincluding a trained monkey and bear purchased from a travelling Roma group. Enclosed in the restaurant garden, the menagerie proved popular and quickly grew. When Poznań’s train station moved to its current location, closing the Jeżyce station, the bowlers purchased the land from Prussian Eastern Railways and opened a proper zoo. By the 1880s, the Poznań Zoo had become a major attraction , displaying hundreds of species in the same 5.24ha (12.9 acres) it occupies today. In the interwar period a group from Ceylon
- consisting of fakirs, magicians, fire-eaters, snake charmers and exotic dancers - was even employed full-time to perform here.
As the public conception of what a zoo can and should be evolved, by the 1960s it was clear that the zoo in Jeżyce was too small and outdated to suit the needs of locals, as well as its animals. In 1974, the 120ha (298-acre) ‘New Zoo’ (p.14) opened on the east side of Lake Malta, the most popular animals were moved there, and the ‘Old Zoo’ has basically been in decline ever since.
A visit today provokes mixed emotions. On the one hand, the Old Zoo is a free public park with an interesting layout, a playground, sculpture art and historical architecture, where you will see plenty of turtles, birds, small monkeys, wild pigs, and domesticated animals from around the world. On the other hand, even as a park it is very neglected and quite depressing, as many of the animals appear to be merely living out their last days. There are several paid kiddie attractions aimed at younger children, including a ropes park for very young kids, but overall we wouldn’t really recommend this park for children that are out of preschool. The one caveat to that is the modern Reptile House built in 2012, which features komodo dragons; with no crowds (unlike the New Zoo), it’s almost enough to overcome the disarray of the rest of the park.
D-7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission free; Reptile House 8/6zł.
Now that most of the animals have left, the Old Zoo is going 'back to nature.'
3
Słowackiego Street Art Nouveau
The historic centre of Jeżyce is charcterised by its architecture, much of which was built around the turn of the 20th century, after authorities decided to demolish Poznań’s fortifications and expand the city westward. The easternmost part of Jeżyce was earmarked for a luxury housing estate intended for the wealthiest German residents. Unlike the dense tenements on Taczaka Street (p.88), for example, Jeżyce’s townhouses would be free-standing, multi-storey buildings with small gardens, combining the features of urban tenements and suburban villas. The prevailing style was Art Nouveau, characterised by asymmetry, ornate balconies, bay windows, and decorative details inspired by nature. Examples of such tenements can be admired throughout the neighbourhood, but particularly along Słowackiego Street between Mickiewicza and Kochanowskiego. Further west along Słowackiego, the houses are no longer free-standing, but there are still some lovely facades worth noticing, particularly between Plac Adama Asnyka and Prusa Street (C-6). | D-6.
4Dom Tramwajarza (Tram Drivers’ House)
It’s not all Art Nouveau on Słowackiego Street, however. At number 19/21 you’ll find a prime example of neo-Baroque architecture with many small sculptural decorations. Built by the Poznań Electric Railway in 1927, this complex served as a social centre for generations of Poznań’s public transit workers. Today it’s a cultural centre, organising frequent concerts, dance performances, film screenings, art openings and more. Most events take place in the stunningly well-preserved neo-Baroque auditorium, which contrasts with the charmingly shabby-chic vibe of the rest of the building, where original design elements appear alongside yard sale furnishings; one almost feels that a full restoration would destroy its boho appeal. The on-site Pan Gar restaurant/bar offers decent Georgian fare, good beer and a very laidback artsy atmosphere, making this hip Jeżyce community centre worth dropping by if you’re looking for something to do. D-6, ul. Słowackiego 19/21.
Corner of Słowackiego and Kochanowskiego streets. [Photo by Mateusz Strożyk.]
5
Jeżyce Market Square
Established in 1891 as part of Jeżyce’s transformation from an agricultural village to an upper class residential suburb, Rynek Jeżycki was soon lined with impressive Art Nouveau tenements by Poznań’s most famous architects, (Max Biele, Paul Pitt, Oskar Hoffmann and Boehmer & Preul). While the restored frontages haven’t looked better since the interwar years, the market remains tatty as ever. Fresh produce is just the beginning of what you can buy here; have some cash handy if you want to fill your suitcase with dodgy garments and goods. | C-6.
6Dąbrowskiego St. Timber Framing
The main road through Jeżyce, Dąbrowskiego is also one of Poznań’s longest streets, running over 8km with more than 500 addresses. It was laid out in 1828 as a postal road, with mail coaches making the journey to Berlin in 26 hours. Today it is Jeżyce’s commercial and cultural high street, lined with fascinating structures from different periods of the district’s development.
Moving east towards the City Centre, ostentatious Art Nouveau townhouses dominate the landscape, making older structures like the tenement at Dąbrowskiego 42 all the more noticeable. Built in 1870, this is a prime example of the half-timbered constructions erected beyond the limits of Poznań Fortress, where permanent structures were prohibited until 1889. Likely part of a Bamberg farmstead, the restored three-storey building retains its original porch, which features some beautiful workmanship. Today the ground floor hosts the upmarket La Planete restaurant and bar, where you can hear live music with your meal Thursday to Sunday evenings. | C-6.
7Rialto Cinema
Two doors further down is the Rialto Cinema - located in the coach house of a former Bamberg farmstead. This small arthouse cinema dates back to 1937, though for many locals it evokes nostalgia for the communist era with its bright red neon sign. D-6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38.
Prime example of 19th-century half-timber architecture at Dąbrowskiego 42.
8
New Theatre (Teatr Nowy)
Built in 1906-07 by the architectural firm of Herman Böhmer and Paul Preul - arguably the most famous architects of Jeżyce Art Nouveauthis imposing pink building combines elements of ‘Swiss style,’ Prussian timber framing and German Art Nouveau to create a true Poznań original. Built as a tenement house, the building only became a theatre in 1923, but the enterprise was bankrupt before WWII broke out. Revived in 1973 by theatre director and film critic Izabella Cywińska, ‘Teatr Nowy’ soon attracted acclaim and controversy throughout Poland and abroad. Fearless when it came to anti-authoritarian struggle, in 1981 Cywińska co-wrote and staged ‘The Accused: June Fifty-Six’ - a political play about the 1956 Poznań Uprising. That decision led to several months’ imprisonment during the period of martial law. After Poland’s first democratic elections in 1989, Cywińska left the theatre to accept the office of the Minister of Culture & Art in the new postcommunist government. In 2024 the theatre was renamed in her honour and today it presents performances on three different stages. Pianta - the Italian restaurant on the ground floor - is a solid pacifier for grumbling tummies. | E-6.
9
Roosevelta Street Art Nouveau
If you’ve tired of the architecture, we understand (not really), but some of the district’s finest, most celebrated structures lie just around the corner. Roosevelta 9/10, 6/7, 5 and 4 were all designed in Jugendstil (German Art Nouveau) style by Böhmer & Preul, and are most representative of the asymmetrical luxury tenement villas built in Jeżyce in the first decade of the 20th century. Badly damaged during World War II, some buildings from this housing estate have lost decorative elements like cupolas or ornamental reliefs, while others have been demolished altogether. Most have been restored to varying degrees, however, and are worth admiring. Unfortunately, Roosevelta is today a very busy road with a tramline, making it difficult to get a good perspective; you may want to cross the street at Dąbrowskiego for a more photogenic vantage, while other elements like the treelimbed balconies of number 5 and the naked goddess adorning number 4 need to be seen up close.
Number 5 is the residence of the fictional Borejko family in the beloved ‘Jeżycjada’ book series by Małgorzata Musierowicz, and the Sweet Surrender cafe (entrance from Krasińskiego) offers the unique opportunity to step inside it for coffee, cakes and breakfast (served until 14:00).
While you’re in the area, have a walk down Krasińskiego Street for a contrast between Roosevelta’s metropolitan multi-storey tenements and the English-style villas behind them. Built only a few years later, these smaller villas were a response to residents’ complaints about a lack of greenery and a desire for a more rural atmosphere. | E-6.
Choose Your Adventure!
A tram from the ‘Most Teatralny’ stop right in front of Teatr Nowy will take you back east into the Imperial Quarter (p.80) and on to the centre.
Alternatively, a tram from the ‘Most Teatralny’ stop on Roosevelta Street will take you south to Łazarz and Wilson Park (p.109).
The New Theatre. [Photo by Janusz Starczewski.]
JEŻYCE
Eat & Drink
Characterised by a wide range of casual ethnic eateries, foodies flock to leafy Jeżyce to brunch and munch in what many consider Poznań’s most exciting culinary neighbourhood. Enjoy the local vibe in the venues listed below, and visit our website for plenty more recommendations.
MORNING
Bajgle Króla Jana
C-6, ul. Kraszewskiego 15
Delicious fresh-baked bagels (including - yes! - 'everything' bagels), stuffed with all manner of seasonal fillings, make reservations imperative at this cult breakfast spot.
019
Tekstura
C-6, ul. Prusa 17
A short, but wild menu of vegetarian breakfasts is served all day alongside lunch specials at this coffeehouse for people who don’t drink cappuccinos. Closed Tue, Wed.
0129
Uno
C-6, ul. Prusa 4/2
From 08:00 (weekdays) this modern specialty coffeehouse serves perfect drinks, a scrumptious menu of hot breakfasts and good vibes, closing up for the day by 15:00.
01
DINING
Concordia Taste
D-7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3
Refreshingly relaxed, despite being one of Poz’s best restaurants. Enjoy modern Polish cuisine made from seasonal ingredients, and an unmatched selection of Polish wine.
659
Modra Kuchnia
D-6, ul. Mickiewicza 18/2
Visit this well-loved restaurant for delicious, modern interpretations of regional comfort dishes like duck with red cabbage and dumplings, accompanied by wine and great service.
25 Po Swojemu
B-6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 21
With a passion for pickling, pulled pork and Polish wine, this hip eatery/bar dispenses with pretense to bring people together; representative of everything good about local gastro.
254
Roswell
D-6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 15
A quirky vegan resto with a loyal following that takes inspiration from all corners, changes their menu weekly, and serves their yummy soups in an edible cup.
12
DRINKING
BRO. Food. Beer. Chill.
D-6, ul. Mickiewicza 27
With sidewalk seating, yummy panuozzo and pizzas, and 15 taps pouring craft beer, plus cider and sparkling wine, Bro is good for a fuel up, or evening pint. Don’t overthink things.
289
Pijany Konik
B-6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 11/1A
This unique cafe/cocktail bar has a cosy interior and a retro, ragtime vibe. You might catch some live piano or a jam session in the basement, which doubles as a barber shop.
0439
Łazarz
Just south of Jeżyce, Łazarz has a similar charm, nestled between major landmarks of cultural activity and urban renewal. With leafy parks, eclectic architecture and a growing gastro scene, Łazarz is rising.
Tenement on Matejki Street as seen from Wilson Park. [Photo by Mateusz Strożyk.]
ńskiego
Łazarz takes its name from the Order of St. Lazarus, which owned the land where the settlement began in the 16th century. Like Jeżyce, it was an agricultural village until the Poznań Fortress was dismantled, after which it rapidly developed a mix of military, industrial and residential architecture. In 1911 Łazarz hosted the East German Exhibition - the first of many large-scale expos that would influence the district’s layout. During World War II it was spared major damage, and briefly served as Poznań’s administrative centre after the war.
Today, the neighbourhood’s layout is defined by the sprawling International Fairgrounds in the northeast and the former cavalry barracks in the west - now redeveloped into modern housing estates and the City Park gastronomy complex. Between them lies Wilson Park, surrounded by stately villas and ornate Art Nouveau tenements, while south of Głogowska Street - Łazarz’s main artery - stretches a more modest residential quarter around Rynek Łazarski (Łazarz Market Square).
Points of Interest
A perfect district to explore by bike, Łazarz’s charms become more evident once you’re off the main streets (and away from MTP). Gravitate towards Wilson Park (p.109) - Łazarz’s village green - and grab dinner or drinks in one of City Park’s stylish restaurants (p.110).
1
Poznań International Fairgrounds (MTP)
Dominating Łazarz and dictating much of its urban layout is the Międzynarodowe Targi Poznańskie (MTP) - a vast, 23-hectare complex of exhibition halls and open-air spaces just west of the train station. Hosting hundreds of trade shows, festivals and other events throughout the year, the MTP attracts millions of visitors to Poznań. As such, it’s impossible to ignore the complex’s importance to Poznań’s development, though its interest to visitors is largely limited to whatever it’s hosting at the time.
Poznań’s tradition of staging large-scale expos began with the East German Exhibition (EGE) of 1911, funded by Emperor Wilhelm II to celebrate the economic, cultural and industrial achievements of Germans in the formerly Polish territories of eastern Prussia. With over 1,000 exhibitors and an array of purpose-built pavilions, the centrepiece
of the propagandic showcase was the Upper Silesian Tower - a 52m-tall modernist structure that doubled as a water tower and market hall, designed by Hans Poelzig. Critically acclaimed and famously echoed in Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927), it and several other structures between the train station and Wilson Park became permanent structures in Poznań after the EGE ran its fourmonth course.
After regaining independence in 1918, Polish authorities built on the legacy of the EGE by developing a cyclical expo, culminating in the first Poznań Fair in May 1921, and first Poznań International Fair in 1924. Instrumental in integrating economic activities between the reunified Polish lands, the Poznań Fair contributed to the creation of a new Polish market and demonstrated Poland’s readiness for commercial cooperation to the outside world.
The famous Upper Silesian Tower during the 1929 Polish General Exhibition.
The next logical step was a Polish propaganda event on an even larger scale than the EGE. In 1929, the city of Poznań held the Polish General Exhibition (Powszechna Wystawa Krajowa, or PWK) to showcase the achievements of the first decade of the new Polish state. Essentially an uberedition of the Poznań Fair, preparations included an incredible amount of new infrastructure and construction, altering the city’s layout forever. The Exhibition officially opened with Polish President Ignacy Mościcki releasing a white dove in the Representative Hall - an iconic structure still standing across from the Sheraton today with its Doric portico and 35m tower. In 111 buildings spanning 65 hectares across all of Łazarz, the acclaimed PWK Exhibition featured exclusively Polish products and drew 4.5 million visitors in just a few months.
Despite the difficulties of the Great Depression, the Poznań International Fair continued up to WWII, when Nazi forces repurposed the halls for aircraft production, prompting Allied bombing raids that destroyed 85% of the complex. After the war, the state took over, initiating an ambitious programme of reconstruction and expansion, including the controversial absorption of two cemeteries - a parish graveyard on Bukowska Street and the Jewish cemetery on Głogowska. In 1955, the Spire Pavilion was built on the remains of the Upper Silesian Tower, reimagining the complex’s most recognisable landmark, and the MTP became a platform for avant-garde architecture during the communist era.
Since 1989, MTP has seen steady modernisation, but also a resulting lack of architectural cohesion across the complex. While the grounds were once closed to the public outside of fairs, recent efforts have opened them up. Plac PWK - a huge open-air space along Głogowska Street - has been renovated and now hosts a massive Christmas market each December, while other spaces have been leased to private ventures like Historyland Despite its historic legacy, MTP’s appeal to tourists depends on the attractions and events taking place inside on a given day; otherwise, your time in Poznań may be better spent elsewhere.
C/D-8/9, mtp.pl.
Representative Hall. [Photo by Mateusz Strożyk.]
2
Former Government Palace
Just outside the current boundaries of the International Fairgrounds, this long and imposing neo-Renaissance complex was one of the key structures built for the 1929 Polish General Exhibition (PWK). Known as the ‘Government Palace,’ it hosted governmental exhibitions and served as a prominent administrative and ceremonial centre during the event. After the exhibition, the building was transferred to the University of Poznań and is now named after Heliodor Święcicki, the uni’s founder and first rector.
C-8, ul. Grunwaldzka 6/8.
3
Former Hotel Polonia & Firehouse
This former hotel on the corner of Grunwaldzka and Stolarska is another relic of the PWK, completed in a record 13 months in an effort to meet late estimates of the number of Exhibition attendees needing accommodation. Designed by Jerzy Tuszowski with Art Deco interiors, the Polonia had 362 rooms and 603 beds - more than any other hotel in Poland. At the end of World War II it was converted into a military hospital, and remained one until 2012 when it was taken over by the Medical University.
Architecture fans should also note the 1872 neo-Renaissance ‘Villa Flora’ across the street at Grunwaldzka 3. The oldest building on the street, it was once part of an ‘Établissements’ entertainment garden like the one described in Pasaż Apollo (p.88). Also don’t miss the fanciful ornaments on the Art Nouveau townhouse at Grunwaldzka 20 across from the hospital building.
Lastly, shielded from view in the back of the hospital is a half-timbered neo-Baroque firehouse from 1908 that is absolutely worth a look. Amazingly it remains in its original function to this day, with modern fire engines just barely squeezing into the garages on the ground floor.
C-8, ul. Grunwaldzka 16.
4
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Anlage Villas
One of Łazarz’s - if not Poznań’s - nicest streets, Matejki is lined with fascinating buildings, and forms the border of several very different housing estates. Between Orzeszkowej, Konopnickiej and Śniadeckich streets is a compact neighbourhood of 28 multi-family villas built between 1895 and 1918. Surrounded by small gardens, and characterised by multi-coloured brick and timber, these handsome villas actually look modest compared to the parkside luxury tenement buildings further south on Matejki. | B/C-8/9.
5Former Cavalry Barracks
Meanwhile, across the street at Matejki 63, two half-timbered buildings are almost all that remains of a vast military complex built in the 1880s. Stretching from Matejki to Wojskowa between Grunwaldzka and Grottgera was a huge complex of brick and half-timbre barracks built to meet the needs of the German garrison. After the Wielkopolska Uprising they were taken over by the Polish light cavalry, including the famous 15th Poznań Uhlan Regiment, whose monument you may have seen in the Old Town (p.69). Today the former military territory is being gradually developed into modern residential properties. | B-9.
Former Hotel Polonia. [Photo by Krzysztof Dobrzański.]
6Wilson Park & Palm House
Arguably the centre of social life in Łazarz, Wilson Park has long been a favourite place for locals to escape the chaos of city life. Covering 7.2ha (17.8 acres), this historic green space traces its beginnings back to 1834, when a nursery was established here to supply trees for beautifying local streets during the district’s rapid expansion. In 1902 it was handed over to city authorities, who soon turned it into Poznań’s first public botanical garden; the Palm House was added in 1911, and Poland’s first aquarium became part of the latter in 1922. Expanded gradually over the decades, today the Poznań Palm House is one of the oldest and largest in Europe, displaying over 1000 species of plants in nine pavilions, plus 170 species of exotic fish and live birds. A visit inside is recommended, especially for families [visiting time: 1hr].
The park itself is named in honour of Thomas Woodrow Wilson in recognition of the former US president’s insistence on an independent Polish state amongst his famous ‘Fourteen Points’ for ending WWI and maintaining peace. On July 4, 1931, a life-size monument of Wilson was unveiled here in the presence of Wilson’s widow and Polish president Ignacy Mościcki. Donated by Ignacy Jan Pederewski, the monument was no small deal; its sculptor was Gutzon Borglum, whose next project was the
presidential busts of Mount Rushmore National Monument in South Dakota. During WWII the Nazis didn’t hesitate to obliterate all trace of the sculpture, but a more modest granite bust of Wilson can be seen near the park’s south entrance. The park’s primary art-piece, however, is Johannes Pfuhl’s 1891 sculpture of Greek hero Perseus freeing Andromeda from the sea monster Ketos, which stands in front of the Palm House. Truly spectacular, it’s worth a close look; don’t miss the details of Medusa’s head, or Perseus’ unique headgear.
Other noteworthy features of Wilson Park include the recently renovated Betonhaus - a former pavilion of the 1911 East German Exhibition (p.106) made entirely of concrete, which now houses two bars and the popular Petit Paris bakery/bistro at the very centre of the park.
Lastly, three air raid shelters were built under Wilson Park in 1944 to protect the Germans living in the luxury townhouses of Matejki Street. Amazingly, they were only discovered during park renovation works in 1998. One of them - consisting of 110m of narrow, winding corridors and roomscan be visited with a guide if arranged in advance via the Palm House (tel. +48 514 652 476).
B/C-9/10. Park open 05:00-22:00; admission free. Palm House open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 19/15; kids up to 3, free.
[Photo by Robert Dolicher.]
7
Johow-Gelände Housing Estate
Long considered one of Poznań’s most prestigious neighbourhoods, this ‘high-rent district’ is gradually seeing its ornate townhouses restored to their former glory. Like the luxury tenements in Jeżyce (p.100, 102), the grand, free-standing buildings lining Wilson Park along Matejki Street were built in the early 20th century in Art Nouveau style for the city’s wealthiest residents. The estate takes its name from German architect Max Johow, who co-developed the area with Albert Schmidt. The oldest, most impressive buildings between Matejki and Chełmońskiego Streets contained spacious over-250m2 apartments with modern amenities like gas and electricity, plus servant quarters in the attics and basements. Moving west through the neighbourhood, the architecture becomes more neo-classical and early modernist, and the once-shared garden courtyards begin to disappear. | B-9/10.
8City Park
An acclaimed example of adaptive reuse and urban revitalisation on par with Stary Browar (p.90), the City Park complex
occupies a large former military plot between two parks in the heart of Łazarz. Built in the late 19thcentury, the red-brick Prussian barracks housed Polish light cavalry units (Uhlans) after WWI, who lived and trained in the immediate vicinity. Today these historic buildings have been carefully transformed under the watchful eye of the City Conservator into a stylish mixed-use complex blending preserved architecture with modern luxury.
At its centre is the 5-star City Park Hotel & Residence, offering elegant rooms and apartments, plus a spa, sauna, pool and fitness centre. Around it, interior lanes running along the long buildings create a quiet, selfcontained village of high-end restaurants, boutiques and services. As such, the City Park complex has been called its own ‘city within the city’ and is incredibly popular with locals and tourists alike. Highlights include the Ułan Browar craft brewery, Michelinlauded Cucina 88 restaurant, and the Wyspiańskiego 26 shopping gallery, which hosts a monthly open-air food and craft market along its exterior alleyway. An ideal endpoint to your exploration of the Łazarz, City Park also makes for destination dining if you’re looking to impress. | A-9/10.
Bazar Wyspianskiego - the monthly outdoor food and crafts market at City Park.
ŁAZARZ
Eat & Drink
The go-to area for dining in Łazarz is City Park, but there are also plenty of hidden gems throughout the neighbourhood, where you can meet and mix with locals. As Lazarz becomes more developed, gastronomy is one of the main draws bringing more people to this part of town. Follow the link for more recommendations, and smacznego.
MORNING
Francuski Łącznik
B-8, ul. Matejki 67
Located in a lovely townhouse near the top of Matejki, this inviting cafe/bakery purveys savoury quiches, sweet pies and coffee; perfect for a quick bite.
019
Petit Paris
C-9, ul. Śniadeckich 12B (Wilson Park)
Enjoy French baked goods, bistro bites and glasses of bubbly inside this historic Art Deco pavilion, featuring two large terraces overlooking Wilson Park.
01259
Project Wilson
B-9, ul. Matejki 56
Charming, cosy spot for breakfast, lunch or an early dinner, located in a historic townhouse next to the park. Reservations recommended on weekends.
0129
DINING
Cucina 88
A-9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A
For those looking to impress, this acclaimed, upscale Mediterranean-influenced eatery offers 5-, 7- 9-course tasting menus, with wine pairing and chef service. Worth it.
16539
Indian Steak
A-10, ul. Ułańska 1
Look past the harmless Wild West decor to find an upscale steakhouse serving perfectlygrilled cuts on hot lava stones in City Park.
259
Kuchnia PoWolność
C-10, ul. Kanałowa 15
This well-loved vegan eatery is worth seeking out. Try their seasonal dishes, yummy desserts, coffee and craft beers, while connecting with likeminded locals. Closed Tue.
25
Pasodobre
C-9, ul. Śniadeckich 25
Absolutely excellent tapas, wine and authentic Spanish delicacies in a vast, semi-casual space astride MTP that is perfect for almost every occasion, be it business, romance or family.
1259
DRINKING
Ułan Browar
A-10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26
Maybe our fave spot in Łazarz, this huge multitap brewery is ideal for a beer in the sun, tasting the local cuisine, watching a match or breaking some billiard balls. Closed Mon.
2839
Wierzba
B-9, ul. Matejki 56
Nice locals, good vibes, yummy cocktails, bubbly drinks and wine in what is a bit of a hip hole-in-the-wall near the park. DJs on Wed; closed Mon, Tue. 54
Print space is limited, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our days to filling. If the sightseeing venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it on our website:
1956 Uprising Museum 31
Applied Arts Museum 68
Archaeological Museum 54
Archdiocese Museum 42
Arsenal City Gallery 62
Berdychowskie Footbridges 13
Botanical Gardens 16
British Military Cemetery 18
Cathedral Lock Gate 41
Church of Our Lady in Summo 46
Church of the Holy Saviour 78
Citadel Park 18
Collegium Minus 82
Concordia Printing House 98
Croissant Museum 33
Dąbrowskiego Street 101 Dom Tramwajarza 100
Enigma Cipher Centre 32
Franciscan Church 69
Genius Loci Archaeological
Preserve 42
Górka Palace 54
Government Palace 108 Grand Theatre 81
Guardhouse 61
Hotel Polonia 108
Park & Square 82 Model of Old Poznań 69 Museum of Armaments 18 Museum of Historical Costume 33 Museum of Poznań 31
Museum of the Poznań Army 18 Musical Instruments Museum 33
Museum
Synagogue
Theatre
Located on Poznań’s Old Market Square, Just Friends blends regional Polish flavours with bold, creative drinks to create one unforgettable experience. Our menu is rooted in culinary tradition and crafted from fresh, local ingredients, while our signature oversized ‘giga drinks’ are made to be shared.
Poznań City Card
* the easiest and most affordable way to explore the city
* free access to public transport
* free or discounted admission to museums, numerous attractions and restaurants
* available at tourist information points, selected hotels or online
