Investigation issue uniform layered haircut, 90 degrees haircut, coupe rationnelle

Universal Haircutting Method (UHM)

®

Journal of Orthocouralogy

No. 6

and Associated Disciplines !

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic

Investigation Report “Uniform-Layered Haircut” In French “Coupe Rationnelle“

Should the so-called “Uniform-layered Haircut” be removed from the learning standards?

Orthocouralogist a New Professional Orthocouralogist a New Professional

October 6th 2014

by Patrick F. Garelle

August 21014

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic

No.6

Master Program

“Uniform-Layered Haircut” or “Coupe Rationnelle”

Fingers and shears parallel to the head?

All hair cut to the same length? o

All hair cut at 90 ?

Simply put, there is no choice but to revise the entire theory’s validity.

The orthocouralogical approach provides a simpler and more logical explanation.

Type to enter text

Horizontal LPlan +LPlan

Vertical LPlan - LPlan

+LPlan

Vertical LPla - LPlan

ORTHOCOURALOGY OFLHD L1, all SCs will be parallel tangent

October 6th 2014

by Patrick F. Garelle

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic

Investigation Report REVIEW, REFORM, and RE-ANALYZE

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle

Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines !

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic

Orthocouralogy or The Scientific Method of Haircutting "The Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines" (JO-AD) will be a publication introducing a new discipline: the formal, academic study of the art, method, technique of haircutting, designated by the term "orthocouralogy." This journal aims towards the dissemination of research findings which are scientifically based, in order to improve both professional and teaching performance in the field. Such scientifically designed methodology had previously been regarded as undefinable by many or eagerly awaited by others.

Overdue, then, since the early years of the 20th century, "JO-AD" should cause a significant turnaround. It is intended for all professionals, salon owners, manufacturers, and enterprises with interests in this flourishing field.

STRATEGY involves two main stages of dissemination.

The first involves publication of existing haircutting theories and commonly held technical beliefs, along with challenges to those assumptions.

In the second stage, unlimited publication of articles dealing with non-technical aspects, such as political or legal ones, would serve as a platform or forum for investigators.

BREAKTHROUGH adapts mathematics to the system of haircutting. Art is translated into science in several logical and explicit chapters. A new philosophy for instructing and also practicing is put into place.

Some major institutions in the beauty industry, as well as professors, doctors, librarians, and trained stylists have already been receptive. "The creation of orthocouralogy is revolutionary and should change the way haircutting is learned...This program boosts the level of education way up."

MANDATE constitutes the need to review and reform and re-analyze the validity of all previously held standards. Orthocouralogy and the journal, "JO-AD," invite a thorough, serious investigation of professional regulations on all levels, including cosmetic licensing. This will prove to be essential for all existing and potential students. Such reform is imperative and inevitable.

Š Copyright 2014 Patrick Garelle international corp ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

“Uniform-Layered Haircut” or “Coupe Rationnelle”

Fingers and shears parallel to the head?

All hair cut to the same length? o Vertical, perpendicular distribution?

All hair cut at 90 ?

Simply put, there is no choice but to revise the entire theory’s validity.

The orthocouralogical approach provides a simpler and more logical explanation.

Abstract The use of mathematical terms in orthocouralogy One objective behind the creation of orthocouralogy was to provide haircutting education in the most logical way possible. We have no intention, reason, or need to redefine mathematical terms that are used in geometry, as has been done for many decades in the domain of hairstyling instruction.

On the contrary, we find the correct use of mathematical language useful and necessary for defining and explaining common elements in cutting hair. Universal agreement on the meanings of mathematical terms and concepts is central to the orthocouralogical program. Our goal is to teach haircutting in the most efficient way possible; therefore we believe that if and when mathematical terms are employed, they must be used correctly, with their true meanings and denotations.

In the early stages of their apprenticeship, and especially when learning to cut hair, students are not conditioned or inclined to question why their instructor uses technical language that seems inappropriate to describe certain elements or functions. Students have no reason not to accept what their instructors tell them, and even less reason to question their textbooks. Perhaps students’ attention and prior, correct understanding of mathematical terms are overshadowed by the divergent educational approach of the beauty industry. Consequently, students learn to misuse these terms, and those who later go on to teach haircutting will tend to transmit technical information in the same imprecise or incorrect way.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

This report is based on a small sample of data chosen from the whole body of content research concerning the category of haircut we have named “Orthocouralogical Fundamental Architectural Layered Haircut Designs" (or OFALHD).

This investigative report is purposely limited to a two-dimensional study, since that approach is sufficient for this level of analysis: namely, to address the improper use of elementary mathematical terms and notions in formal haircutting instruction. (A three-dimensional approach to this topic will be presented in a later Journal (JO-AD), to address the problem at a more complex level.)

As the misuse and misinterpretation of mathematical and geometrical terms is an obstacle to the further development of haircutting instruction, it is necessary to explain how these terms and concepts are used in the haircutting domain, and replace them with the correct meanings as commonly understood and accepted in other technical fields and the world at large.

We believe that mathematical terms and concepts -- used correctly, as they are in orthocouralogy -- generally apply well to the domain of technical haircutting and hairstyling instruction.

It is principally for the benefit of students and instructors, who are tasked with the responsibilities of learning and teaching this art, that this program has been invented. It is our strong belief that in order to elevate, to bring enhanced distinction and respect, and to attract other types of learners to the profession, a more solid academic basis must be established.

(Please also refer to JO-AD NO. 4.)

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

Intuitive Methods

2006

Logical Methods

Before Orthocouralogy - After Orthocouralogy Master Program - Preparative Phase

Introduction It is an undisputed fact that this theory is included as part of the haircutting training curriculum all over the world. Therefore, though the theory's popularity is unexplained and unjustified, it is assumed to be valid and necessary, and students in all countries have no choice but to learn this haircutting standard.

The creation and development of orthocouralogy has inevitably given rise to a need to review and analyze the technical contents of past and current haircutting textbooks and instructional materials.

What is obvious is that the core content of haircutting theories in these textbooks has been essentially unchanged for decades, which leads us to inquire about the intent of the companies that publish these materials. The subject treated in this Journal (as well as several other topics) was raised in a meeting with one major publishing company in January 2012, but failed to elicit any definitive response.

Orthocouralogical symbol

This report is limited to a brief review of the use, context, and meanings of certain technical terms and expressions as they are used in teaching the type of haircut known as “uniformly-layered haircut,” or “coupe rationnelle” in French.

In light of the simple fact that the human head is spherical and mostly positively curved, the following principles and expressions are seen very differently from an orthocouralogical point of view: o o o

Uniform layers/all hair cut to the same length/equal length throughout Parallel to the head (straight fingers holding hair, straight scissors) All hair 90 degrees verticality/perpendicularity

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

Problems statement (example) “Uniform haircut” We found that a great number of images and diagrams provided in support of this theory actually did not back up their corresponding statements and technical recommendations. In other words, we found many images and diagrams that contradicted the technical idea of the intended message they were supposed to bolster.

We believe there is no good reason not to use standard geometric terms properly to describe types of haircut designs, when it is possible to do so.

Main Hypothesis The use of mathematics in haircutting instruction can effectively raise technical and artistic haircutting performance. The adaptation and correct use of mathematical terms and principles can be an invaluable aid in explaining and understanding technical haircutting actions and effects.

In this Journal, we propose to show that the correct use of basic terms of geometry in haircutting is not only possible, but can provide clearer articulation and visual representation of desired and expected results using different types of haircutting systems.

We find it evident that the correct use of mathematical terms, as they are understood and applied in other areas of education, art, and science, will edify and enlighten students learning the fundamentals of layering techniques.

Prediction (in brief) - We have no doubt that the proper use of borrowed math and science terms will facilitate progress in the technical development of haircutting instruction and creative designs.

• As a result, we predict that concerned students, and the community of instructors and educational institutions, will be increasingly interested in the educational and philosophical approach of the Journal.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

About data Although it is evident that these terms have been and are being misused, we have conducted enough experiments (using clients and hairstylists as students) to conclude that the proper use of geometric terms can make technical haircutting instruction and explanation more correct, understandable, and useful.

Full explanations of some images in this Journal are intentionally omitted at this time because the study was limited to the use of math terms in the domain of haircutting and hairstyling instruction. The amount of data provided here on the study of the “uniform haircut” is limited for the same reason.

Conclusions based on a reasonable amount of evidences.

We found many valid reasons to justify the following conclusions: - The so-called “uniformly-layered/90 degrees/all same length/all vertical/all perpendicular haircut” cannot reasonably be considered a “basic haircut” as it is presented.

-­‐ The lack of technical explanations, the misuse of technical language, and the overall impossibility of giving a true representation of this type of layered haircut raises serious questions for those who continue to espouse it as a "basic haircut."

Type to enter text Ultimately,

due to the aggregation of issues, we suggest the reconsideration and even elimination of this type of layered haircut from any haircutting program. - No student should be tested and graded on this subject as it is presented.

Naturally, we understand the effect this report could have on the entire educational industry.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

Image extracted from the Ortho-Geometry program, Ortho-system, and ortho-procedure Part of: Adaptation and usage of Geometry in Orthocouralogical space

Ref SC

Parallel tangent

N5

Remark: Tangent and parallel tangent are based on making the reasonable assumption that the human head is spherical.

Lift

There is not such a thing to cut parallel to the surface of the head, if your Segment-Cut is straight.

Instead, we must think in term of parallel tangent.

✂

Holding fingers

OFBE from TK1C Tangent to the ORTHO-SPHERE

∩

∩

N1 R

Pull Down

L

ORTHOCOURALOGY Mean HL

[Ref (H Lgth)]

N5

Patrick F. Garelle

4

2006

NEW YORK location

SCIENCE AND ART Patrick F. Garelle

Orthocouralogy GEOMETRY & Master Layering Systems

Two dimensional analysis only Parallel S

1

S

O R T H O C O U R A L O G Y

C SC and SO are parallel line segments

O

Parallel SC

2

SC curved segment is parallel to SO curved line segment.

SO

↓

SC, SO, not parallel S

3

S

↓

C SC is not parallel to the curved line segment SO O

Tangent Line to SO, and P the tangent point

4

P

S

↓

tangent line is not parallel to SO O

SC parallel to the tangent line

5

S

C

P

S

↓

SC is now parallel to the tangent O

P is the tangent point

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

Let SC be the imaginary segment line described by each hair end section, and let SO be the surface of origin (ortho-sphere/head) from which a group of hair would be lifted “straight up.”

↓ SC

6

✂ H1 ORTHOCOURALOGY

SO

- SC is not parallel to the SO. - H1 would be the only single hair being considered to be cut at 90 degrees from the SO. all other single strands of hair will be at different angles/Agl

↓ Mathematical answer SC

7

✂ H1

ORTHOCOURALOGY

P SO

↓ 8

- All single strands of hair are 90 degrees to the tangent, and not perpendicular/90 degrees to the Surface of Origin.

- All hair in this example have the same length when measured from the tangent to the SC. - Only one single strand of hair (P-SC) can be considered as perpendicular to the SO. - All other hair will be different in length than H1.

3 DIMENSIONAL ANALYSIS ORTHOCOURALOGY

in a later JO-AD

OFBE, or ortho-prism (orthocouralogy’s library)

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

Unless you decide to cut hair one strand at a time, which you most probably will not... If the objective is to cut all hair the same length, it will require a number of straight SCs that increases relative to the degree of precision you desire. If you decided to play that game, using a straight pair of scissors to cut different groups of hair, the number of SCs would be so great that it might take you a few days to complete the task (if your live model would sit still that long). By the time you were done, the hair(s) cut at the beginning of the process would have grown again!

Where do you stop? How do you do it? What level of precision is acceptable?

SC

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle

FHHP

TK1C N5

✂

R TK2

✂

TK3 L

✂

PG Ref SC

TK 5L

✂

4R K T

✂

TK 6R

7L TK

Lift

✂

✂

ORTHOCOURALOGY ∩

∩

✂

TK 8R

Mean HL shape FHHP

∩ L ∩

∩

R

Ref Lgth pull down then lifted to CP. e.g.: CP N5

∩

L TK9

∩

N1

✂

∩

[Ref (H Lgth)]

N5

When LPla is Positive, and optional when perpendicular to the horizon

BHHP When LPla is Negative

TKs 10, 11, 12, 13 not shown here

Patrick F. Garelle

Legends not provided

Patrick F. Garelle

FHHP

TK1C

✂

R TK2

✂

N5

TK3 L

✂

PG Ref SC

TK 5L

4R K T

✂

✂ Lift

∩

L ∩

∩

∩

✂

R

Ref Lgth pull down then lifted to CP. e.g.: CP N5

∩

L TK9

∩

N1

✂

∩

∩

7L TK

ORTHOCOURALOGY Mean HL shape

[Ref (H Lgth)]

N5

Legends not provided

Patrick F. Garelle

Two dimensional analysis only Basic system principle of haircutting An “orthocouralogical line of cut” is the path that can be described by an imaginary line connecting the end sections of at least one ortho-fundamental building element (OFBE) that has been released or otherwise deployed. That ortho-line of cut (LC) can have different shapes, depending on the type and physical properties of the OFBE being formed. Typically then Logically, that LC can never be straight when lying on the head (sphere).

Line of Cut curving negatively

ORTHOCOURALOGY

From a theoretical and simplified approach: Shown here are profile views of three identical OFBEs’ isosceles trapezoidal faces. Each of these OFBEs' faces have five single strands of hair joined at the apex colored in blue.

• Only one (center) is at 90 degrees.

• All others are different in length than the one at the center.

• When each is deployed perpendicularly/90 degrees from the surface of origin, the LC will not be straight, but will actually be negatively curved (curving in the opposite direction from the head/surface of origin/SO).

In short, unless the hairs have been cut one by one, there is absolutely no way that a haircutting diagram with a continuous positively-curved LC (Fig: 001P) can be accurate.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

?

Patrick F. Garelle

Fig: 001P

Ortho-geometry ortho-isosceles-trapezoidal Face

Hair end section

✂ H4

H5

H3

H2

H1

ORTHOCOURALOGY H4

H5

H3

H2

H1

- H3 is considered to be perpendicular to its source/point of origin.

- H1, H2, H4, and H5 are pulled at a different angle that H3.

- H1, H2, H4, H5, are different in length that H3.

Ortho-isosceles trapezoidal face with an sample of 5 single hair strands.

Relative to its source of origin (SO) H3 is the only hair considered to be vertical.

hyperbolism

2006

NEW YORK

SCIENCE AND ART

Orthocouralogy ORTHO-ISOsCELES-TRAPEZOID

Ortho-Geometry SC seen as a parallel ortho-tangent to the surface of origin/ortho-sphere’s tangent

✂

ortho-prism/OFBE tangent ORTHOCOURALOGY

surface of origin/ortho-sphere

Blending procedure (in brief, and from a simple approach) As an example, and theoretically: When not used as a corrective procedure, blending consists of cutting the intersections formed by at least two SCs. In practice, the idea is to blend/soften or round the line of cut (LC) resulting from these intersections, which can be more or less sharp.

Concerning the legendary “Uniform-Layered Haircut” and as an example, the magnitude of a blending procedure, which can be regarded as more or less necessary (visual inspection), will be relative to the level of precision of the original/primary haircutting performance.

One important distinction is that a blending procedure used to soften the lines of cut (LC) is not synonymous with cutting hair accurately. In other words, cutting precisely or more precisely doesn’t mean your haircutting performance is accurate based upon specific planed requirements.

From a realistic and practical point of view, a blending haircutting procedure will obviously involve the manipulation of a greater number of hairs, which number within reasonable limits will have a direct impact on the technical quality of the haircutting performance. The blending procedure can be repeated indefinitely (casually said) in order to approach perfect blending.

It should be understood that the idea of perfect “Fundamental Layered Haircut Design” is reasonably impossible to achieve on live models.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle

Blending, from an orthocouralogical point of view, is a type of adjustment, or even corrective, haircutting procedure. It cannot be considered as a primary or initial haircutting procedure.

When layering (or any other primary haircutting technique) is executed precisely from the beginning, the need for the blending process can be reduced. In essence, the time spent performing a blending procedure might be better invested in attaining more precision in the initial haircutting system.

It should be understood that it is not feasible to achieve a perfect “Fundamental Layered Haircut Design� on live models BLENDING PROCEDURES WILL BE COVERED IN A LATER JO-AD

Important remark for future references and based only on this figure : (in brief) Segment-cut/apex of an OFBE as shown (702) is considered as the actual Segment-cut. It is the location where the actual haircutting is performed .

The geometric Segment-cut (701) is that segment often represented in theoretical instruction.

ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle Patrick F. Garelle

A glance at a three-dimensional approach -The device below HSED L1 is a prototype showing some elements of what could be a fairly realistic idea of layering somewhat close to the surface of origin.

- Here the idea is to layer on a spherical plane parallel to the surface of origin, rather than a flat plane (taken as an example).

- This image shows only 2 parallel and straight Ref Segment-Cut,1 and 2 (apex of 2 OFBEs not truly shown here) - Each Ref Segment-Cut (SC) is straight, and only one blending SC (in red) is visible.

7

21

14

7

14

HSED L1

2 1

21

✂ ✂

ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY

HSED L1 Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

experimental prototype

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

Master Program Elementary Phase Let's set the record straight!

The TRUTH about one specific type of layered haircut: Can you give a 90-degree haircut, and have all hair come out the same length?

According to every single technical book, you can!

IS THAT TRUE?

The answer is NO. Commonly introduced to students as “rational haircut" (translated from the French "coupe rationnelle"), also known as “the uniform haircut," or "90-degree haircut/all hair the same length” in the U.S., in reality this haircut is impossible to give. The fact and truth is that no one has been able explain how this type of haircut can be given, and that no one, not even the best hairdresser, can actually execute this type of haircut according to the given specifications.

Variables and Materials (in brief) The use of a straight pair of scissors A straight haircutting comb The use of a layering system involving the lifting and organizing of a selected group of hair (OFBE/ortho-prisms), combed as straight as possible -The assumption that the human head is spherical.

• Human physical/mechanical forces (holding/pressing groups of hair between fingers) • All segment-cuts straight • All segment-cuts (OFBEs’ faces), limited as two-dimensional graphic representations, parallel to their corresponding tangents • • •

What must be TOLD, must be KNOWN, and must be UNDERSTOOD: Apart from a few exceptions, layering based upon the “90 degrees/same length theory” is simply not realistic.

In order to get that result for every hair in a given hair-mass (an average of 100,000 hair strands), you would have to lift and cut each hair at that length (or mean scalp level), using a logical system that is not reasonable nor practically applicable to human anatomy.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

As for the 90-degree pull, that is also impossible.

The reason is simple, and directly involves that same notion of achieving uniform hair length.

Because the head has a spherical aspect, only one hair can actually be pulled at 90 degrees from its surface. All the other hairs in the selected group will be pulled at different angles from that spherical surface (source of origin, or SO). This fact directly refutes the "90-degree angle" (Agl), and at the same time the length issue, since no other hair will be identical in length to the one used as the reference length (Ref-Lgth).

If it cannot be explained how all hair can be cut to the same length, or else explained why or how that result can only be approximated, the theory with all its specificities should not be presented in the first place. It would be unfair for a student to fail a practical test or test of knowledge based on a dated, unjustified, unexplained theory.

Positive side of the theory (in brief)

Having pointed out the defects inherent in the "uniform layers" theory, it should also be mentioned that instruction in this theory may serve some interesting purposes for students and instructors. Some these can be defined as helping to develop: • • • •

situation awareness skills good judgment estimating -- not measuring -- skills, and fine motor skills, and speed.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle

Let us set the record straight!

Unless you are using a machine (e.g., clippers) or a razor to shave the head (and give the absolute “Surface of Origin level” layered haircut), you will not be able to cut all hairs on a given head at the same length. Neither can you do so by using your hands to hold and press groups of hair (OFBEs) between your fingers.

Lifting each hair at 90 degrees from the surface of origin and then cutting is impossible or would take you days; and by the time you finished, hairs cut earlier would have grown already!

In more reasonable terms, lifting groups of hair at 90 degrees from the surface of origin using your fingers is also impossible, since only one hair would be at or close to that angle, depending upon your own judgment and approximation skills.

Here is why: Let us make the reasonable assumption that the human head is spherical. As an example, you select a group of hair 10 centimeters from the surface of origin (scalp). Of all the hair being pulled, you will only be able to get one hair perpendicular to the surface, with all other hair being longer than that one. This is due to the spherical aspect of the scalp surface area, and the shape of the temporary structure, composed of hair, that you are cutting with straight scissors. (Don’t think about curved scissors yet -- we will talk about that later!)

Even if it is somewhat true that selecting the smallest group of hair helps to cut hair more precisely, the fact is that accuracy is not possible when giving this type of haircut.

What is interesting to note is that this 90-degree haircut (commonly called “uniformly-layered haircut” in English-speaking countries) is far from uniform.

Let us use simple math to make a quick but fair assessment, based on the reasonable assumption that the head is spherical.

THEN Let us make the reasonable assumption that the human head averages at least 100,000 single strands of hair.

Let us also assume that the person trying to give this haircut organizes and cuts 100 separate groups of hair, each group composed of 1,000 hairs.

Then what happens? (STEP NO. 7, page 12 - two-dimensional value only) - Only one single hair within one group of hair could be pulled at 90 degrees.

• All other individual hairs would be at angles different than 90 degrees.

• Only that single hair, assumed to be at 90 degrees, could be at the desired length/reference length.

• All other hairs would have lengths different from the original reference length.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle

Conclusion in numbers Based on the hypothesis, within a group of hair: • Only 0.001% of the total number of hairs could be cut at 90 degrees.

• Only 0.001% of the total number of hairs could have the same length.

• Only 0.001% of the total number of hairs could be cut perpendicularly/ vertically to the “head form” or “surface of origin.”

• No group of hair will be cut parallel to the “head form” or “surface of origin.”

No one would manually select individual strands of hair and cut “all hair” one by one at the same length.

No one would pull “all hair 90 degrees/vertical/perpendicular” to the surface of origin.

Again, the written “uniform haircut” procedures are not in accordance with the diagrams and depictions.

Furthermore, there is no rational explanation or system showing how this theory can be realized other than using the orthocouralogical program.

The flaws and inaccuracies in this haircutting theory have not been addressed by those responsible for including it in the standard haircutting curriculum.

Conclusion REVIEW, REFORM, and RE-ANALYZE It is our reasoned opinion that the “uniform-layers haircut” should be removed from any haircutting program. The justification for this statement derives from the elementary facts that: 1. The technical language borrowed from geometry is used incorrectly.

2. The stated technical requirements being asked of students and instructors are not possible to achieve.

3. The graphic diagrams do not accurately represent the haircutting procedures described.

A new approach regarding this type of haircut is imperative, and has already been put forth in the pages of this Journal.

The "ORTHO-SPHERICAL HAIRCUT DESIGN"/ "ORTHO-STRATA FUNDAMENTAL HAIRCUT DESIGN”

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick Patrick F. F. Garelle Garelle