Bangs Fringes Haircutting Techniques

Universal Haircutting Method (UHM)

速

Journal of Orthocouralogy

No. 9

and Associated Disciplines !

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic

BANGS - FRINGES Engineering technical fundamentals for cutting bangs/fringes Orthocouralogical study of the architecture, structure and technical configuration of bangs/fringes Bangs/fringes classification A unique academic approach Includes sample test items Master Program

February 9th 2015

Orthocouralogist a New type of Professional

Patrick F. Garelle

Bangs

Fringes

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Integrated and Dependent

Nonintegrated and Independent

ÂŽ

Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines !

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic

Orthocouralogy or The Scientific Method of Haircutting "The Journal of Orthocouralogy and Associated Disciplines" (JO-AD) will be a publication introducing a new discipline: the formal, academic study of the art, method, technique of haircutting, designated by the term "orthocouralogy." This journal aims towards the dissemination of research findings which are scientifically based, in order to improve both professional and teaching performance in the field. Such scientifically designed methodology had previously been regarded as undefinable by many or eagerly awaited by others.

Overdue, then, since the early years of the 20th century, "JO-AD" should cause a significant turnaround. It is intended for all professionals, salon owners, manufacturers, and enterprises with interests in this flourishing field.

STRATEGY involves two main stages of dissemination.

The first involves publication of existing haircutting theories and commonly held technical beliefs, along with challenges to those assumptions.

In the second stage, unlimited publication of articles dealing with non-technical aspects, such as political or legal ones, would serve as a platform or forum for investigators.

BREAKTHROUGH adapts mathematics to the system of haircutting. Art is translated into science in several logical and explicit chapters. A new philosophy for instructing and also practicing is put into place.

Some major institutions in the beauty industry, as well as professors, doctors, librarians, and trained stylists have already been receptive. "The creation of orthocouralogy is revolutionary and should change the way haircutting is learned...This program boosts the level of education way up."

MANDATE constitutes the need to review and reform and re-analyze the validity of all previously held standards. Orthocouralogy and the journal, "JO-AD," invite a thorough, serious investigation of professional regulations on all levels, including cosmetic licensing. This will prove to be essential for all existing and potential students. Such reform is imperative and inevitable.

Š Copyright 2015 Patrick Garelle international corp ALL RIGHTS RESERVED www.patrickgarelle.com

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle

August 21014

Universal Haircutting Method (UHM) No. 9

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic REVIEW, REFORM, and RE-ANALYZE

Images taken from the Orthocouralogical Fundamental Haircutting Elements Table

ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY Patrick F. Garelle Patrick F. Garelle

Patrick F. Garelle

Universal Haircutting Method (UHM)

No. 9

Haircutting Architecture and Hairstyling Design Art and Logic

B

s g an

s e g n i r -F

ORTHOCOURALOGY

BANGS - FRINGES The introductory BANGS - FRINGES chapter presented herein is part of a library of technical haircutting reference resources and studies. Although fairly involved, the information in this journal presents only a portion of the full development of this particular subject.

Because cutting bangs or fringes is inevitable in a professional career, it was vitally important to create this document to meet the growing need for updated educational standards and professional efficiency.

When surveyed, people outside of the industry did not know how students have traditionally learned to cut bangs or fringes, and did not understand how their technical knowledge could be tested or evaluated when no written technical or practical program on the subject has existed.

Professionals who were queried reacted positively on all points, such as purely technical, instructional, and even from a standpoint of creative development.

Until now, conscientious, dedicated, talented individuals and instructors who recognize the need to teach and learn how to cut bangs/fringes have had to rely on their own expertise and motivation to accomplish that task.

As hairdressers, we know that personal talent, experimenting and taking risks, or being lucky enough to have a talented teacher have been the only ways to learn how to create these attractive and intriguing structures.

This is intended as a simple, useful document about bangs/fringes architecture and structural haircutting design.

It is hoped that the Bang - Fringes orthocouralogical study will become recognized as a classic technical haircutting document, from which impartial, immutable standards and tests of evaluative knowledge can be derived.

This chapter is designed primarily to provide a reliable technical basis for learning how to cut bangs/fringes, as opposed to cutting them intuitively, which requires more experience and is less efficient and riskier. It also illustrates how the method of cutting and creating bang/fringes can be recorded, repeated, and transmitted.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Previous publications

Art, mind, and technique TECHNICAL KNOWLEDGE ENGENDERS ARTISTIC IDEAS, ENHANCES PERFORMANCE, AND INCREASES SATISFACTION. GREAT TALENT AND ARTISTIC PERFORMANCE REQUIRE THE DEVELOPMENT OF TECHNICAL KNOWLEDGE. WHY? FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF OUR CREATIVE POTENTIAL, AND FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF OUR OWN UNDERSTANDING AND SELF-KNOWLEDGE.

The way bangs/fringe can be cut and structured in relation to other components of a haircut's structural and architectural design can be simple or complex. This journal presents a demystification, interpretation, and technical explanation of the way bangs/fringes can be cut.

The orthocouralogical philosophy stays the same.

Very often, beautiful, successful haircut designs cannot be repeated, or even recalled.

This chapter provides an overview, rather than a lesson, of technical information to a new generation of hairstylists who must learn more material, more quickly and accurately.

Obviously, we also believe that this will be useful to the dedicated instructors who are in need of, and who demand, serious educational content.

The idea of cutting bangs or fringes may come from the professional, the client, or both.

However, the responsibility of performing this correctly rests on the professional.

One obviously needs to know how to cut bangs/fringe, as it is an inevitable occurrence in professional haircutting practice. Whether bangs/fringes are cut as a new structure or are an existing structure needing to be fixed, a professional must know and understand all the elements involved in cutting this type of hair design structure.

Furthermore, the development of chemical processes which change some of hair's physical properties (e.g., various types of straightening, permanents, and color), and more efficient hairstyling tools, make more people candidates for having and maintaining bangs.

A simple bang in a middle of a bob may be easy to reselect, but it is more complicated when the bang is structurally imbedded in an adjacent hair-mass. In that case, understanding how it was originally cut assists the professional in repeating the cut.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Why was this chapter written?

This chapter was created to be a useful theoretical and technical document, covering applicable systems and procedures. The complete chapter (which does not appear here in its entirety) presents the most academic instruction in these systems and procedures, which will in turn have a substantial positive impact on artistic and technical haircutting performance.

Cutting bangs/fringes is nothing new. However, no serious or well-researched and developed document on the subject has existed before now.

We perceived the need to develop relevant educational content, both practical and technical, to provide standards in this area and become part of the foundation of the haircutting curriculum.

This study addresses a professional need and is long overdue. The development of artistic performance, and the need for its technical support, is increasing over time. We are confident that this study will help to accelerate the learning process, improve technical performance, and ultimately increase the individual's level of creativity.

Planning specific instructional activities that can be tested impartially is a critical part of the orthocouralogical goal.

As noted in previous journals, the core mission of orthocouralogy is to offer a logical haircutting education program that is rational rather than intuitive -- a novel concept, and certainly a departure from traditional, "hands-on" haircutting teaching techniques.

This chapter provides educational tools to: a: explain/transmit how a particular bang is created b: record quickly how a particular bang is created (blueprint) c: repeat a particular bang design d: develop technical creativity, which incidentally can greatly enhance artistic haircutting performance e: avoid technical confusion f: prevent psychological stress g: bolster professionalism and self-esteem h: accelerate the teaching and learning processes i: avoid leaving artistic performance and results to chance (uncontrolled technical haircutting performance) j: develop critical and analytical processes k: create educational standards

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs/fringes are architectural haircutting design structures that are given using portions of the hair-mass which naturally tend to fall primarily, but not strictly, on the front/forehead side of the ortho-sphere (human head). Therefore it is critical to study the head shape, hair growth patterns, and physical properties of the hair in order to define which portions of the hair-mass can be selected to cut these specific standard or non-standard structures.

Orthocouralogical philosophy strongly emphasizes the study and development of technical haircutting articulation and performance, rather than relying on opinion as to what looks good or bad.

The goal is objectivity rather than subjectivity, enabling more effective haircutting instruction.

Artistic considerations Giving an artistic opinion is not part of the orthocouralogical technical standards.

The factors involved in determining whether a person is a good candidate for bangs/fringes are too relative to be dictated. No absolute standard can be established and used as a criteria to judge whether someone can or cannot get bangs/fringes (B/F).

Furthermore, what is artistically acceptable in one time or place can be perceived differently in a different setting.

However, the planning and execution of a B/F according to standards can be verified and approved from an objective, technical point of view, which differs from subjective judgment, opinion and perception.

If the reason for giving B/F is primarily artistic or aesthetic, what must immediately follow is confirmation that it can be done successfully.

The question is simple: Can the B/F stay in place? Are there any physical factors that could make this artistic decision unsuccessful?

Technical factors and physical properties to consider in deciding to cut bangs/fringes Hair shape: e.g., wavy, curly, frizzy (retraction anticipation, hairstyling or and chemical treatment) Hair size: e.g., fine, thick Hairline: shape and growth pattern Hair-mass growth pattern Adjacent haircut structures: e.g., integrated or not

ORTHOCOURALOGY

‘BANGS - FRINGES’ gives relatively precise graphic and technical haircutting information, explaining how B/F can be structured and their relation to the rest of the hairmass or haircut design.

In the interest of developing self-explanatory, universally understandable technical terms, orthocouralogy has produced a specific vocabulary to denote each basic B/F architectural structure. As elsewhere in the discipline of orthocouralogy, some of this technical language is borrowed from mathematics and adapted to apply to elements of haircutting.

Instructors must, as their ethical duty, provide their students with the most comprehensive theories and practical instruction possible. Learning to cut hair in this context allows students safer technical operation and experimentation.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

"Bangs" in the U.S., also called "fringes" in England and "franges" in France Bang/fringe sector classification For artistic or other reasons, the portion of the hair-mass that is used in bangs/fringes may exceed what might be considered standard technical limits. In that case we can think in terms of non-standard bangs/fringes, which include portions of the hair-mass that don’t naturally fall on or about the forehead as when the head is held straight or in standard position setting (SPS).

DEFINITIONS:

Classification of bangs/fringes based on their source of origin/sector (abridged) Standard bang/fringe Standard bangs/fringes are haircutting structures made of all or some of the hair-mass that tends naturally to fall on or by the forehead and reasonably below, when the head is held straight (standard position setting/SPS).

Reasons to cut bangs/fringes If a bang/fringe can be cut for practical reasons, it also can be cut in aesthetic and fashionable contexts, involving the creation and use of various architectural haircutting designs and structural techniques.

Note that standard and non-standard bangs/fringes are not classified here based on length.

Non-standard bangs/fringe Non-standard bangs/fringes are haircutting structures that are cut using more than that portion of the hair-mass which tends naturally to fall on or by the forehead or below, when the head is held straight (standard position setting/SPS). Non-standard bangs/fringes need styling, and most likely the use of a product/products, to stay in place, including the excess of the hair-mass that doesn’t fall naturally as a bang but is intended to look like a bang.

Remark: A bang/fringe originating from non-standard sector (B/F source of origin) can overlap its adjacent structure, which overlapping might not be desirable, and can be a sign of poor technical performance.

Non-standard bangs/fringe notation (for the purpose of recording, repeating, transmitting) Even with careful analysis, it may be difficult to remember or determine how the infrastructure of non-standard bangs was created. For that reason, it may often be advisable to record how nonstandard bangs/fringes are cut, if repetition or instructional explanation will be necessary.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Standard structural limit for cutting bangs/fringes using a triangular infrastructure/sector In the classic or traditional way of selecting the B/F sector, a center of arc is used. However, you must pay attention to how far aft you select that center of arc.

Exceeding the depth range from which hair can naturally fall as B/F will cause that excess of hair to fall too far laterally, and possibly create undesired effects.

Each single hair from its surface of origin (SO) tends to fall naturally following the shortest path from its point of origin/point of attachment. Studying the direction in which hair falls is important.

Typical example of nonstandard bang/fringe sector Using CSs from the vertical axis (VA) will cause the selected hair-mass to fall laterally, and therefore will exceed the B/F standard sector usable range. (see image below) - A bang/fringe's auxiliary axis (AUX-A) set too far aft -- in other words, set behind the reasonable maximal limit from which hair can fall naturally onto the frontal area -- can cause the BF to overlap the adjacent architectural structure of a haircut design.

- An AUX-A that is set too far aft will not increase the thickness of BF as if that portion of the hair-mass were falling naturally.

- Outlying hair selected in this manner will need to be forced and styled into conformity with the frontal group of hair forming the B/F. B/F selected from the shaded red sector will most likely not naturally fall on the frontal area.

Non-standard B/F sector

ORTHOCOURALOGY WINDOW

WINDOW ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs/fringes (B/F) configuration relative to the rest of the hair-mass Bang/fringes structural configuration

Bangs/fringes (B/F): Structurally dependent or independent, inte-­ grated or non-­integrated Structurally independent bangs/fringes A bang/fringe can be defined as structurally independent when it is cut using its own construction section(s), which section(s) is/are not used directly or primarily to cut another VHW (vector hair way = in brief: base or segment of the base of a haircut design/outer/perimeter structural limit) or another structure.

Structurally dependent bangs/fringes

A bang/fringe can be de.ined as structurally dependent when it is cut using a construc-­‐ tion section (CS) that is also used to cut other VHW segments, or other structures.

"Structurally dependent" means the B/F's construction section is imbedded in or shares the construction section of another VHW or another structure.

The factor determining whether a given bang/fringe is considered structurally de-­ pendent or independent is whether or not the CS(s) used in cutting it is/are used primarily to cut another structure within that same haircut design.

Structurally integrated bang/fringe A bang/fringe can be defined as integrated when the B/F's VHW segment ends connect with another VHW segment ends or structure.

An integrated bang/fringe's VHW segment ends connect with another VHW's segment ends.

Note: Only one segment end of its VHW may connect/blend with another VHW's segment end. In that case, we can think in terms of partial integration.

Structurally non-integrated bang/fringe A bang/fringe can be defined as non-integrated when its VHW segment ends are not connected with another VHW segment or structure.

The VHW segment ends of a non-­‐integrated bang/fringe do not connect or blend with any other VHW segment ends.

The factor determining whether a given bang/fringe is considered structurally in-­ tegrated or non-­integrated (fully or partially) is the relationship between that bang/fringe's VHW segment ends with the segment ends of another VHW.

Bangs/fringes structural combinations

a: integrated and independent b: integrated and dependent c: non-­integrated and independent d: non-­integrated and dependent

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs - Fringes Non-integrated and Independent Bangs - This B/F is considered "independent" because the B/F is given using its own CSs. - It is considered "non-integrated" because its VHW doesn’t connect with other VHW segment ends.

Example

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs’s Surface of Origin (darker green)

Bangs center of distribution (DC/S)

Bangs CS

Bang curtain surface area

Bang/fringe VHW segment end

Bang VHW Hair belonging to the main structure VHW main structure

ORTHOCOURALOGY

VHW main structure segment end

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs - Fringes Non-integrated and Independent Bangs FIGURE: BFNI

Bangs center of distribution (DC/S) also: center arc

ORTHOCOURALOGY

AUX-A

VHW main structure

Bangs’ CS Surface of origin/scalp

VA VHW✂

VHW✂

CS

Bangs’ surface of origin

ORTHOCOURALOGY BF

Bang curtain surface area H1

VHW✂

H2

WINDOW

H1, H2: Hair belonging to the main structure

Bang VHW

©

2006

NEW YORK

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

Bangs - Fringes Integrated and Independent Bangs - This B/F is considered "independent" because it is given using its own CSs. - It is considered "integrated" because its VHW segment ends are connected with other VHW segment ends.

FIGURE: BFII7 Bangs’ center of distribution AUX-AXIS (DC/S)

Example Bangs’s surface of origin (darker green)

Bangs’ CS ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bang curtain surface area Intersection of B/F and slanted main structure VHW segments

ORTHOCOURALOGY Bang VHW

Main structure slanted VHW

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs - Fringes Integrated and Independent (Example #1) FIGURE: BFII1 Example

ORTHOCOURALOGY VHW✂

VHW✂

VA

CS

H F1 VHW

✂

BF

BF VHW✂

H VHW

F2 ✂

WINDOW Note: Two VHW segments F1 and F2 are slanted.

Reasons why a bang/fringe could structurally be independent are not disclosed here.

©

2006

NEW YORK

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

Bangs - Fringes Integrated and Independent (example #2)

FIGURE: BFII2 Bang/fringe sector surface of origin is considered to be a lune

VA

VHW✂

VHW✂

ORTHOCOURALOGY CS H

ORTHOCOURALOGY

✂ VHW

BF

BF VHW✂

H

VHW

✂

WINDOW

©

2006

NEW YORK

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

Reasons for integrating a bang/fringe The primary rationale for cutting a bang that is integrated should be artistic, as it should ideally be for cutting any bangs/fringes. The bangs/fringes integration procedure should be planned and executed with the good judgment always exercised by the haircutting professional.

However, a situation may arise in which the adjacent portion of hair needs work, and you must change course to integrate the bang/fringe to its adjacent structure or vice versa. In these cases you may consider various artistic and technical haircutting alternatives, and discuss them with the client.

Here are three common examples of scenarios where the integration of a bang/ fringe may be indicated.

- The adjacent portion of hair needs structural corrections, and these corrections structurally integrate the bang/fringe to the adjacent portion of hair.

- The health or physical quality of that adjacent portion of hair is compromised; for example, it is chemically damaged.

- The natural physical property of the hair may be excessively thin, and therefore should preferably be kept shorter than longer. In this case, one may decide to employ a blending/integrating procedure.

As an artistic example, the integration of a bang can be performed by blending it into the vertical edges of a blunt cut/bob, the edges then becoming slanted VHWs. Different artistic scenarios and technical combinations may arise from imagination; to secure these for future use if needed, it is best to record them.

Whether it is your idea, the client's, or both, the final decision to give bangs/fringes will depend on the feasibility of that hair architectural design and structure to lie correctly, or lie in an acceptable way without creating problems.

Reasons for creating structurally non-integrated bangs/fringes Primarily, non-integrated bangs/fringes are designed to stand out distinctively -- in other words, to contrast with the adjacent hair-mass. By virtue of their structure, nonintegrated and independent bangs and fringes are visually more prominent than other types of B/F, and since their construction structure is evident, they are easier physically to reselect.

Non-integrated bangs/fringes, depending on their architectural category, can create different visual impressions. Usually non-integrated B/F, such as straight, tend to create a stronger look. (Artistic effects are not elaborated upon in this issue.)

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs - Fringes - This B/F is considered “dependent” because it is cut using the same CS used to define a different structure of the haircut design.

- It is considered “nonintegrated” because its VHW segment ends don’t connect with the other VHW segment ends.

Non-integrated and Dependent Bangs FIGURE: BFND8 Example Bang surface of origin/sector (darker green, quadrilateral type)

B/F

Selected hair from CS to set the VHW

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bang curtain surface area X5RR

ORTHOCOURALOGY X11LL

Bang VHW

Slanted VHW main structure

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs - Fringes Non-Integrated and Dependent Bangs FIGURE: BFND

ORTHOCOURALOGY VHW✂

VHW✂

VA

CS

B/F

H X5RR

ORTHOCOURALOGY

VHW✂ WINDOW

H X11LL

VHW checkpoint (CP) X5RR (VHW segment ends)

VHW checkpoint (CP) X11LL (VHW segment ends)

- This B/F is "nonintegrated" because its VHW segment ends don’t connect with other VHW segment ends.

- Its infrastructure is "dependent" because it uses a CS which is also used to set the other VHW.

©

2006

NEW YORK

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

Bangs - Fringes - This B/F infrastructure is considered "dependent" because the B/F is cut using the same CS used to cut different VHW segments.

- This B/F is considered "integrated" because its VHW end segments are connected or blend with other VHW segment ends.

Integrated and Dependent Bangs FIGURE: BFID21 Surface of origin

Example Bangs’s surface of origin (darker green)

CS B/F

Bang curtain surface area

Hairline

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Selected hair from CS to set the VHW

Intersection of B/F and slanted main structure VHW segments

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Segment of the VHW that can be considered as the bangs’ VHW Slanted VHW main structure

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs - Fringes Integrated and Dependent Bangs

FIGURE: BFID

CS

ORTHOCOURALOGY H

B/F

VHW✂

VHW✂

VA

H

ORTHOCOURALOGY

✂ VHW

✂✂ VHW ✂ VHW VHW BF

VHW

✂

WINDOW WINDOW VHW✂ WINDOW

©

2006

NEW YORK

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

Bang/fringe measurement The dimensions of B/F can be defined using an orthocouralogical or other standard measuring system (e.g., the metric system).

Bang/fringe VHW linear properties A bang/fringe's VHW can have many different linear properties (e.g., straight, arched, slanted) and different dimensional effects (e.g., hatched, dual VHW).

Bang/fringe VHW curtain properties A bang/fringe curtain can also have different physical properties (e.g., layered, blunt, contrast in colors).

Reasons to cut bang/fringe - aesthetic - fashion - practicality - to hide or de-emphasize less desirable facial features - corrective (hair quality/health, haircutting correction)

Bangs/fringes surface of origin/sector What types (surface area shapes and size) of source of origin/sector can be used to cut bangs/fringes?

There is no restriction about the types (geometrical shape and size) of sectors that can be used to cut bangs/fringes.

The bangs/fringes sector infrastructures presented in this journal are limited to those that are most commonly used.

Many other varieties of bang/fringe sector infrastructure can be designed, depending on the complexity of the bang/fringe. Generally, factors that determine the shape of a sector/source of origin are bang/fringe design (creativity), the hairline shape, which can sometimes be very irregular and asymmetrical, the shape of hair (e.g., straight, curly) and the hair size (e.g., thin, thick) including the physical dimensions of the head.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Instructors must emphasize the importance of safety at all levels.

Safety issues include the psychological approach of the giver and the receiver of the haircut, as well as technical safety procedures.

Building block teaching procedure Recommended sequence of procedures for giving B/F Creation (not maintenance) of B/F

Four stages of the decision-making process 1: Artistic decision - Will the B/F look good?

In brief, the artistic decision is up to you, the client, or both.

If physical issues are known beforehand, the idea of giving B/F should be explored cautiously. For example, if a significant change in the direction of the hairline pattern is observed, that issue is best addressed at the outset. You should be aware of the resulting effects, which may include the client's ability to style; and you might also think of possible alternatives (for example, a chemical process).

In this case, communication with the client is important, especially if the B/F was the client's idea and you are of the opinion that it will not work.

2: Physical assessment of the B/F platform (all elements involved to cut a bang/fringe) Can it be done easily? Are there any apparent obstacles to its successful execution?

If conditions allow, it is preferable to make the assessment before the artistic decision, then explain if the assessment is negative. The physical assessment can also be done concurrently with the artistic assessment.

3: Technical/infrastructure planning, based upon the choice of B/F architectural design.

How should I set the CS(s) for best results?

4: Agreement, then commitment and reinforcement Do both parties agree? Let’s go forward with it, or let's do something else. It's going to look great, or it's not the best idea.

B/F haircutting procedure: Example and safety steps Step 1 (initial structural phase): From a part (usually), define the B/F’s approximate width and depth using CS(s) - (L to R or R to L) Safety step: Begin by selecting a short width, depth, and plan for B/F safety level.

Then observe, analyze, and decide.

Step 2 (adjustment phase): Adjust the B/F depth and width.

Then observe, analyze, and decide.

Steps 1 and 2 involve observation and selection, not actual haircutting.

Step 3 (commitment phase): Set sub-CS if possible.

Safety step: Very conservatively cut the B/F length/level. (Begin by setting the B/F at a much lower level than anticipated, anticipating retraction.)

Then observe, analyze, and decide.

Step 4 is the beginning of B/F haircutting adjustment procedure.

As needed, increase B/F width and depth and raise level.

Step 5: Hairstyling (e.g., BBD), then final adjustments if needed.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

How to uncover the existing B/F cut Any haircut creation should be recorded in order to be remembered, modified, repeated, or transmitted.

If it exists, referring to the ortho-haircutting technical documentation or chart gives the most reliable information on how a specific B/F was given. Don’t be certain that you will be able to remember or see how it was cut.

Next is some basic technical information that can be very useful to repeat, transmit, and correct B/F. The shape of B/F should be indicated (e.g., straight, slanted, curved), as well as the infrastructure (CS, part, CP) and the configuration in relation to the rest of the haircut design (e.g., integrated, independent).

Special effects such as dimensional effect (e.g., thinned, hatched) should also be recorded, as well as whether the B/F are cut blunt or layered.

Having a clear idea of how B/F or any other structure was formed is the best way to fairly repeat any design.

In the absence of any technical information, and especially with a low level of expertise, it is more difficult to find how B/F were given.

The infrastructure of classic B/F is usually not difficult to find; however, it can get a bit more complicated if they are other than non-integrated and independent.

Without a technical record, determining how B/F were given by another person (assuming that the person did a relatively precise job) is best achieved when the hair is dry and lying or hanging as bangs naturally do. You might get a good idea by first looking to see, for example, if the B/F were layered or hatched. You may also be able to define the length, and maybe the style/ level, asking the client if necessary.

Analyzing how a bang/fringe has been given Figure PBE5 Procedure Visual analysis only

Characteristics Guesswork; uncertainty

Effectiveness Often poor

Manual inspection

Helpful, but not always possible; still involves guessing, uncertainty

Variable

Reading (e.g., technical chart) Checking and veriCication of objectively Good; high accuracy recorded data

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs/Fringes: Categories and variables - Categories: Fundamental architectural shapes and structure (blunt/level/horizontal, slanted, layered, arched, diamond, heart, and combination) - Types of sector/SO shape: Triangular, lunar/lune, quadrilateral, free - Class: Single band and multiple bands - Style: E.g., very short, short, long (standard measure based on the orthocouralogical mapping of the head) - Model: Symmetric, asymmetric - Simple bang: A bang/fringe having one VHW which is independent and nonintegrated - Complex bang: B/F other than simple (under review)

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Recording how a bang/fringe has been cut The most efficient way to record how B/F have been given is to take notes during the process. Using the Universal Code of Haircutting (UCH), which was engineered for that purpose, along with any other pertinent information, is the most efficient way to achieve that task. Pictures and film without explanation are not enough.

Don’t take for granted that you will always remember exactly how you gave one B/F or another. You might be able to figure out some simple B/Fs’ CS infrastructures by selecting hair that seems obviously part of the B/F, but you may not be able to do so for more complex procedures.

The idea of recording technical performances should involve common sense. The more information and details you have, the better chance you will have to repeat and transmit a specific technical experience.

Following are some examples of technical information that is useful in explaining how a bang/fringe is given.

- B/F’s shape, e.g., straight, curved up, curved down - B/F’s level, width, depth using check point(s), and other helpful notation - B/F’s construction section infrastructure, e.g., number of CS, CS shape, location - use of the ortho-measuring ruler (calibrated on the ortho-measuring unit) or any other measuring systems - diagrams - pictures

Considerations for cutting bangs/fringes - physical properties of the hair-mass - physical properties of the hairline - physical property (shape) of the ortho-sphere - outside elements/weather - relationship to the haircut structure

The use of graphics and the orthocouralogical code in this journal - Graphic representations are provided to illustrate the infrastructures of different bangs/fringes and technical specifications regarding the bang/fringe's relation to the rest of the hair-mass.

- Graphics such as symbols aim to provide a simple technical and educational shorthand. These symbols are part of the orthocouralogical code's communication format.

- Rudiments of the orthocouralogical code of haircutting are used in this journal for readers' edification.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Ortho-spherical triangular-type B/F infrastructure, or ortho-bang/fringe sector type Orthocouralogical communication Bang/fringe orthocouralogical sector, or ortho-BF sector As the shape of a bang/fringe's surface of origin approximates a spherical triangle or a spherical triangle sector, that surface area is defined, advisedly, using those geometrical terms.

Therefore, in terms of a sector, the hairline would represent the arc (irregular base) of a sector.

When that bang/fringe sector resembles a triangle (or another shape), the hairline represents the base of the triangle or other shape, and the construction section the two other sides/edges.

However, in general terms, the word "sector" can be used when referring to a bang/ fringe's surface of origin.

The shape of a bang/fringe sector can be described more specifically by using additional geometrical terms when they apply.

As an example, the formal expression "bang/fringe isosceles triangular source of origin or sector" should be acceptable and self-explanatory in the technical language of the method. In the haircutting context, that expression can be reduced to "sector" when it is understood that we are talking about bangs/fringes.

The word base in that context is also acceptable.

Construction Section (CS) for cutting bangs/fringes (in brief and as an example) Traditionally, as when forming a spherical triangle sector, two construction sections are used. A sub-CS can also be used to divide a selected volume of hair to cut in increments, for reasons such as safety, better and easier distribution, and consideration of the physical properties of the hair-mass.

Bangs or fringes can be given using different infrastructures. Cutting bangs/fringes can be done using one or more construction section (CS).

Generally, the number of main/primary (vs. sub-CS) CSs that can be used to cut bangs/ fringes is dependent primarily on the desired type of bang/fringe structural design.

Construction sections used for cutting bangs/fringes can be regular or irregular.

Bracketing, which is a safe way to move progressively toward the desired dimensions of bang/fringes (or other structures), might involve the change of CS. The number of OFHE/OFBE (groups of hair organized to be cut - see issue NO. 8) used to cut B/F is relative the physical properties of the hair-mass being treated, the size dimensions of the B/F, and the level of technical haircutting precision.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Remark: The most direct way to cut bangs/fringes is to cut the hair that obstructs visibility when falling naturally as the head is held straight (standard position setting).

This can be done without the use of any CS; however, this procedure will not afford the greatest control. One reason for using construction sections to cut bang/fringes is increasing control in the haircutting operation. The use of specific construction sections makes the haircutting operation more precise, and permits or facilitates the recording, repetition, and transmission of the procedure.

Some remarks on bangs/fringes’ dimensions - Generally, the base length of the spherical triangle or arc length of that sector will in part define the width of the bangs/fringes (that width is the length of the bang/fringe VHW). This hairline segment is defined by the construction section end-segments on the hairline.

- The angle at which those two CSs open defines the length of the hairline segment used to cut the bang/fringe.

- The length of the bang/fringe VHW (not to be confused with the length of the bang/ fringe, e.g., short, long) is relative to the hairline length selected, the shape and size of the resting surface (which induces the B/F VHW to become longer), and the physical properties of the hair-mass being treated.

- The length or level/altitude of the bang/fringe, such as short or long, can be defined in terms of either true length or apparent length (which usually are not the same).

- The bang/fringe depth is defined by the height of the spherical triangle or sector (segment line of symmetry/bisector when isosceles triangle type of sector). The depth of any type of bangs/fringes' source of origin can also determine the weight, quantity, and thickness of hair being cut as bangs/fringes.

- The apex (the highest point, opposing the bang/fringe hairline segment) is considered as a center point of distribution, or center of arc, and is also seen as an auxiliary axis from which the two main construction sections (spherical radials) originate, ending at the hairline.

Wet or dry! How should bangs/fringes be handled initially for cutting? (in brief) Preferably a bang/fringe should be cut wet, with each hair pulled as straight as possible, close to the resting surface and longer than the intended final length.

Why should bangs/fringes be cut longer than desired?

For the sake of security, it is wise to err on the side of caution when cutting B/F. Second guessing, planning for hair retraction, anticipation of a cowlick effect, are some common reasons.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Basic structural components for cutting a classic simple bang/fringe from a triangular sector considered to be isosceles

The following graphics and the corresponding legends indicate the ortho-topography and list the minimum standard structural components used to cut bangs/fringes considered as classic, using a surface of origin considered as a spherical triangular type/ sector type.

- The two construction sections (CS) and the hairline segment form the triangular sector.

- Two surface areas are casually defined: The bang/fringe curtain/band which is the relatively free-falling portion (below the hairline) of the bang/fringe, and the bang/fringe SECTOR or surface of origin (SO) used to cut the bang/fringe.

Since the head is spherical, and to make it simple, we can say that all edges of B/F are curved.

ORTHO-DIAGRAM: BFSCC

Legends provided on next page BF VHW

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Standard infrastructure components of a classic bang/fringe with an ortho-spherical triangular sector

ORTHO-diagram:# BFSCC legends Bang/fringe surface of origin (SO), also named: bang/fringe orthocouralogical sector B/F curtain length/level(s)

(example N5, or measured)

B/F sector depth B/F curtain /band B/F Construction Section (CS) infrastructure

ORTHOCOURALOGY Ortho-sphere mean VA

Distribution Center or auxiliary axis (AUX-A) (also: bang/fringe center arc) B/F VHW curtain width Hairline segment length Ortho-checkpoint (CP) optional for recording VHW level MAX B/F structural depth B/F curtain/band depth

Š

2006

NEW YORK

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

Bangs - Fringes Ortho-spherical triangular sector/source of origin Standard basic procedure for cutting a bang/fringe Standard haircutting procedure for cutting bangs/fringes from an orthocouralogical spherical isosceles triangle type sector/source of origin After consultation, technical evaluation, artistic decision, and commitment are made, the use of a haircutting technical procedure is recommended. The following sample procedure is considered as basic and standard.

- The bangs/fringes are initially cut wet, then can be adjusted with caution when dry.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Abbreviated written basic procedure

Ortho-symbolized procedure Orthocouralogical code (UCH)

- Determine bang/fringe AUXI-AXIS location.

- Verify (Vrif)

ORTHOCOURALOGY - Set the two CS to form the B/F sector/SO. - Vrif

- Optional: Set the sub-CS. - Vrif

- Optional: Cut the bang/fringe VHW from the sub-CS. - Vrif - Cut the B/F VHW. - Vrif

- Optional: Hairstyling procedure (e.g., brush and blow-dry) - Vrif

Š 2005 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Ortho-spherical triangular B/F structure

Sub-Construction Section (to cut the forward or front portion of this bang)

VA B/F AUXI-A

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Primary Construction Sections (bang/fringe structural boundaries

Approximative hairline (HL) position/sector base

ORTHOCOURALOGY B/F VHW ✂

The structure is independent. It is not indicated in this image whether the B/F will be integrated or nonintegrated.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY BF sector/source of origin considered as a 1/2 lune

Hairline approximative position

Window

ORTHOCOURALOGY BF sector/source of origin considered as triangular

Hairline approximative position ORTHOCOURALOGY

Window

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Ortho-spherical lunar B/F structure

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

B/F example of sector shaped as a lune/crescent

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Mean hairline (HL)

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Other haircut design structure

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY B/Fs are physical structures whose volume can be changed without changing their style or level. For example, they can be layered, hatched, or thinned, or a combination of these to give various dimensional effects.

Hatching can be done using different patterns as shown below.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

✂

✂

BF-VHW

✂

Hatch min-depth level (use control, good judgment)

✂ ✂ ✂ ✂

Hatch max-depth level (use control,good judgment)

Hatch length Hatch depth Thinning, hatching, and other ways of creating dimensional effects should be planned and executed carefully. It is always wise to think ahead to the next haircut you might give the same person!

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY Standard/classic type of bang/fringes

primary bang/fringe CS

ORTHOCOURALOGY sub-CS

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs/Fringes Ortho-Architectural Classifications Classics or common bangs/fringes VHW shape and attitude - Straight - Arched up (symmetric) - Arched down (symmetric) - Heart-shaped - Slanted - A-shaped - V-shaped - Arched up (slanted/inclined) - Arched down (slanted/inclined)

Bangs/fringes basics or common infrastructures elements Elements of Construction involved Ortho-Triangular Sector - Middle, side, or oblique part, center of distribution, 2 CS, TS as desired, HL, VHW

Ortho-Lunar Sector (including: bean, teardrop, and free sectors) - Middle, side, oblique part, 1 CS, TS as desired, HL, VHW

ORTHOCOURALOGY

BANGS - FRINGES Orthocouralogical study table NO. VJ 19 - Limited list of VHW shapes and attitude From ortho-triangular sector/source of origin

Convex B/F

Convex B/F

O

R Straight B/F VHW

Slanted B/F VHW

T Convex B/F

Concave B/F

H

O

C Positive/+(down) arched B/F VHW

Negative/- (up) arched B/F VHW

O Convex B/F Concave B/F

U

R

A A-shaped B/F VHW

V/diamond-shaped B/F VHW

L Concave B/F

Concave B/F

O

G

Y Positive/+ (down) double inverted arched/heart-shaped B/F VHW

Negative/- (up), double arched/heart-shaped B/F VHW

Convex B/F

Concave B/F

BF VHW No. 2 BF VHW No. 1

Example of dual band

Š 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

Slanted, negative/- arched B/F VHW ORTHOCOURALOGY

BANS - FRINGES Orthocouralogical Code of Haircutting Orthocouralogical Table: Ortho-triangular Sectors, and WHW shapes (examples) Examples of ortho-symbols and graphic notation Examples of ortho-symbols Part CS

Legend not provided here

ORTHOCOURALOGY N3 N3

The letter and number code indicates the level/ altitude of the VHW B/F segment, or VHW B/F ends segment when applicable.

N5

N3 N5

ORTHOCOURALOGY N6

AUXI-A also Center of arc or distribution-center/sector (DC/S)

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY Š 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

BANS - FRINGES Orthocouralogical Code of Haircutting Orthocouralogical Table: Ortho-triangular Sectors, and WHW shapes (examples) Examples of ortho-symbols and graphic notation

ORTHOCOURALOGY The letter and number code indicates the level/altitude of the VHW B/F segment, or VHW B/F ends segment when applicable.

N3

ORTHOCOURALOGY N6

Hatched/HT

ORTHOCOURALOGY N6

ORTHOCOURALOGY © 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY orthocouralogie LOGY COURA sector

LOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

LOGY

COURA

ORTHO

ORTHO

Orthocouralogie ortho - coura - logie

BANGES - FRINGES - FRANGESBang/Fringe VISUAL EFFECTS Art and technics of haircutting visual effects

O

ORTHOCOURALOGY

R

T

H

O

C

O

U

R

A

ORTHOCOURALOGIE

LOGY

LOGY

Orthocouralogie ortho - coura - logie Orthocouralogie ortho - coura - logie ORTHO

BANGES - FRINGES - FRANGES © 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

ORTHO

L O

G

Y

ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY COURA ORTHO

BANGES - FRINGES - FRANGES Art and technics of haircutting visual effects

Orthocouralogical study table NO. 17 - Dimensional effects O

R

T

H

O

C

O

U

R

A

L O

G

Y

ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY Guided discussion between students and instructors/critical thinking development.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

© 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

Visual effects created by bangs/fringes (abridged)

The architecture of bangs/fringes, by themselves or in combination with other haircut design structures, can create widely varying visual effects. In short, bangs/fringes have the capability of changing a person’s physical appearance.

A bang/fringe's length, width, thickness and shape, physical properties of the hair (texture), color, contrast, and the space occupied by the B/F are all elements that can change a person's appearance. Haircutting techniques such as thinning and hatching, in creating dimensional effects, can also change the physical properties of bangs and other haircut structures.

Aside from considerations of fashion, then, different architectural aspects of B/F can be employed to change the way the head, features, and neck are perceived about their size; but these visual effects can also extend to the entire body. Effects may include emphasizing or de-emphasizing desirable or less desirable facial and physical features. B/F can also have positive or negative psychological effects for the individual, based on the individual's and others' perception of these visual effects.

All of these and related issues should be thoroughly considered and explored in class.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Study of visual effects Orthocouralogical study plate - Bangs/Fringes (Study preferably with full-body models) Guided discussion between students and instructors/critical thinking development based on scenarios involving different features' configurations, different types of bangs/fringes, infrastructures, and haircut designs, and other possible variables.

triangular B/F sector/SO

triangular

triangular straight

straight

straight VHW

BR1

BR2

BR3

ORTHOCOURALOGY

triangular

triangular arched (-)

straight

BR4

BR5

triangular arched (-)

BR6

ORTHOCOURALOGY triangular arched (+)

BR7

triangular

lune

arched (-)

arched (+)

BR8

BR9

ORTHOCOURALOGY Š 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Study of visual effects Note: Can be done using pictures (preferably of full-body models)

Orthocouralogical study plate - Bangs/Fringes (2-D presentation) Guided discussion between students and instructors/critical thinking development based on scenarios involving different features' configurations, different types of bangs/fringes, infrastructures, and haircut designs, and other possible variables.

Same ortho-sphere size and shape, and same eyes in the same positions. The variables are the bangs/fringes, which create different visual effects, changing the way a head is perceived about its dimensions.

VA

VA

VA

ORTHOCOURALOGY Same size eyes at two different levels. The different bangs’ attitude and dimensions have different effects on the perception of the difference in eyes levels.

ORTHOCOURALOGY Same size eyes at two different levels. The asymmetry of the different bangs’ configuration has varying effects on the perception of the difference in eye levels.

ORTHOCOURALOGY © 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Study of visual effects Note: Can be done using pictures (preferably of full-body models)

Orthocouralogical study plate - B/F Guided discussion between students and instructors/critical thinking development

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY - What do you see or feel? What different visual effects are created by the different B/F and haircut designs?

- Make your own study plate.

- Submit your study plate to the Journal of Orthocouralogy.

Š 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

ORTHOCOURALOGY

When long enough, hair tends naturally to fall following the shortest or most direct path from its point of origin/point of attachment.

Since the human head's rate of curve is greater from a lateral point of view, the hair originating at the apex will tend to fall laterally rather than forward. In other words, the hair will tend to fall on the side of the head, thus following or taking the most direct path downward. This is why it is important to analyze the direction in which the hair falls, relative to its source of origin.

It is a mistaken belief that placing the depth limit of a bang's infrastructure far aft will naturally increase the thickness of bangs/fringes.

Therefore we can imagine that for each given human head, there exist data from which hair can be selected to be cut as B/F, and to fall naturally as what is considered as B/F, without being forced-styled as B/F. In this connection, we can talk about physical limits that define the portion of hair that can be cut and considered as B/F. Theoretically, the area boundary (AB) line separating the left side from the right side on what can be considered as the head plateau represents a datum from which hair can fall right, left, or parallel to that AB line.

The hair originating from that line portion can fall left or right; however, the hair originating from the left or right of that AB line on the plateau, when long enough, will always tend to fall on its respective side.

Overall, in the process of giving a B/F, one must pay attention to the way hair falls naturally, and evaluate which portion of the surface of origin can be selected for the B/F.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Ortho-System From an ortho-spherical triangle sector/source of origin (SO) Vertical axis (VA) Radial distribution from the VA as if the head was a regular sphere (easiest scenario)

BF VHW

Irregular sphere

✂

ORTHOCOURALOGY VA

A

B

AUX AXIS BF sector/(SO)

A

B

✂ BF VHW ✂ BF VHW

Note: The hair from the forward sections A, B, will tend to slide over the bang.

WINDOW Note:The hair from the forward sections A, B, will tend to stay off the B/F sector.

Note: Hair tend to fall from their respective point of origin (PO) tacking the shortest path to its way down (pull of gravity.

- Hair-mass logical distribution is relative to the shape of the head (ortho-sphere)

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY COURA ORTHO

ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY COURA ORTHO

ORTHOCOURALOGY

LOGY

COURA ORTHO

O R T H O C O U R A L O G Y ORTHO-

COURALOGY

LOGY

ORTHOCOURA LOGY COURA ORTHO

COURA

ORTHO-coura-logy

ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY COURA Bangs/Fringes ORTHO

VHW Ranges

narrow range

standard range ORTHOCOURALOGY

LOGY

wide range

ORTHOCOURALOGY

LOGY COURA

COURA

ORTHO

ORTHO ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY ORTHO ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY COURA ORTHO

COURA ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY ORTHO

ORTHOCOURALOGY LOGY COURA ORTHO

COURA

Bangs/Fringes Classic bang from a ortho-triangular type of sector/source of origin !

!

!

(form a center part)

B/F width ranges casual evaluation

- SPS - BF non-standard usable HL

VA

Including non-standard B/F sector

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Usually involves up to the full forehead

Covers less than full portion of the forehead

Narrow range Conventional/standard to wide range

Š 2006

NEW YORK

Wide to non-standard range

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

ORTHOCOURALOGY B/F width ranges casual evaluation

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY © 2015 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

Bangs/Fringes ORTHOCOURALOGICAL PLATES Examples B/F sectors/SO

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY © 2014 COPYRIGHT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED PATRICK GARELLE INTER CORP WWW.PATRICKGARELLE.COM

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bang/fringe axis

Bang/fringe surface area

Bang/fringe CS

ORTHOCOURALOGY Bang/fringe VHW

Hairline and Scalp/Source of Origin Pattern Hairline: Definition - The imaginary path or line defining the peripheral limits of the scalp surface area having hair.

Hairline shapes are unique to the individual -- none are the same -- therefore, each source of origin (SO) is different in terms of truth.

The left and right sides of the surface of origin/scalp are different.

Therefore, the concept of symmetry is approximate, and a fair degree of flexibility must exist.

In the domain of orthocouralogy and in actual haircutting practice, forming perfect symmetry at all levels is not possible.

Good judgment is therefore the best source of evaluation.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Hairlines are all different and unique This fact must not be perceived as a problem.

Given these two statements, it should be clear why it is important to study someone’s hairline growth structural pattern before suggesting bangs/fringes.

- The study of hairline growth structural pattern is an essential part of the technical decision process.

- Poor planning and analysis of hairline growth structural pattern may result in failure of a bang/fringe to lie correctly.

- Poor bang/fringe technical planning and analysis may result in a deviation from the original technical haircutting plan and artistic decision.

The different features of the head, facial features, and even the physical characteristics of a given individual's entire body are factors in the decision-making process for cutting bangs/fringes, although sometimes fashion trends may be the most influential consideration.

Bangs/Fringes non-standard hairline usable range Bangs/Fringes standard usable frontal hairline range

ORTHOCOURALOGY

ORTHOCOURALOGY ORTHOCOURALOGY

Hair distribution Ortho-spherical spread (

)

Without elaborating on the subject here, it is important to note that hair originating far aft/posterior to the hairline, therefore deep in the B/F sector/source of origin, will tend to spread at a greater rate than the hair originating closer to the hairline. (For hair originating from a small arc and resting over greater arc, look for greater spread.)

For that reason, the hair distribution originating progressively farther aft the hairline and closer to the head apex should be distributed according to that spread effect.

However, the combs we are using works against that effect, since combs are designed to keep the hairs parallel to each other; that is why it is highly recommended to use small groups/ortho-prisms (refer to issue NO.8) of hair to maximize proper spread distribution.

Furthermore, since the head is irregular, no regular spread can be expected.

The spread/distance between strands of hairs originating from the same and higher level will be greater than the spread/distance between hair originating from the same and lower level.

The spread from hair originating from the hairline will be minimal.

Image 9278 - 3/4 right part - triangular BF sector/source of origin

Image 9266 - left part - triangular BF sector/source of origin

ORTHOCOURALOGY Spread induced by the spherical aspect

In that context, the same number of hair originating from a higher level will tend to spread more than the same number of hair originating from a lower level.

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Bangs --Fringes Bangs Fringes Test your knowledge: Fill in the blanks for these sample test items.

1 - This B/F is considered ‘dependent because it is given using the same CS used to cut different VHW segments.

2 - It is considered ‘integrated’ because its VHW segment ends are connected to the other VHW segment ends.

SAMPLE TEST: Please fill the blanks.

Bangs’ surface of origin

4 Selected hair from CS to set the VHW

3

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Segment of the VHW that can be considered as the bangs’VHW. 5

6

1: dependent,; 2: integrated; 3: BF surface area; 4: CS; 5: bang VHW; 6: slanted VHW main structure

ORTHOCOURALOGY

Test your knowledge: Circle the correct answers for these sample test items.

FIGURE: BFND

VHW✂

VA

ORTHOCOURALOGY CS

VHW✂

a: integrated dependent b: non-integrated independent c: non-integrated dependent d: integrated independent

BF answer: c

VHW BF ✂✂ VHW

H

H

WINDOW WINDOW

FIGURE: BFNI

VHW✂

VA

ORTHOCOURALOGY CS

BF

answer: b

H

BF VHW✂

H

WINDOW

© 2006

NEW YORK

ORTHOCOURALOGY

SCIENCE AND ART

Orthocouralogy Systems and Procedures

VHW✂

a: integrated dependent b: independent non-integrated c: non-integrated dependent d: independent integrated

Test your knowledge: Circle the correct answers for these sample test items.

FIGURE: BFID

VHW✂

VA CS

ORTHOCOURALOGY

answer: a

BF

H ✂

VHW

✂✂ VHW VHW BF ✂ VHW

VHW✂

a: integrated dependent b: independent non-integrated c: non-integrated dependent d: independent integrated

H VHW

✂

WINDOW WINDOW WINDOW

FIGURE: BFII2

VHW✂

VA

ORTHOCOURALOGY CS H

BF

H

answer: d

✂

VHW

BF VHW✂

WINDOW

ORTHOCOURALOGY

VHW

✂

VHW✂

a: integrated dependent b: non-integrated independent c: non-integrated dependent d: integrated independent

What can be done to remember how B/F have been given?

- answer : Records all necessary technical procedure.

What could be a technical factor making you decide not to cut a bang?

- answer: An inadequate hairline growth pattern

2: A bang/fringe deNined as independent

a: can be integrated

b: is never integrated

c: cannot be layered

d: must have at list two TS

Intuitive Methods

2006

Logical Methods

Before Orthocouralogy - After Orthocouralogy