Black Sheep • Issue 4 4 • Season 6
April 2011
Black
Sheep
Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Guide Magazine
Photo: Glaciar Mel, Provincia Última Ezperanza, Patagonia Chilena
®
Patagonia’n Expedition Race
The last wild race, at the most beautiful place
Patagonia for export Aonni, Best New Still Water 2010
Trail Tips From the Pros’
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Recycle this paper! Pass it on.
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ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS LOVE ADVENTURE
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Reservations: 600 2000 000 Santiago. Puerto Montt. Temuco.Concepci贸n. Punta Arenas.Balmaceda.Coyhaique.Salamanca. La Serena.Copiap贸.Antofagasta.Calama.Iquique
www.econorent.cl
Make your own route Plan your own trip Rent your car and go out
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Editors Letter
Traveler, welcome to Patagonia! In this letter I want to show you everything you can do and achieve in this journey of yours, how can you take something more than just beautiful pictures and a great experience and I will do it through two head fakes.
José Ignacio Blavi Aros, CEO & Publisher
So, what a journey means? How you suppose to do it or what is what we should do while we travel? A few months ago I would’ve told you how to do it or what we should do while we travel, I even would told you a difference, maybe contemptuous, that I did between a traveler or a turist. But the true is that today I think something different. I know that it doesn’t matter the reason why we are traveling, you are always escaping from something, it could be a problem, a reality, from work or family, it could be that we are escaping after a broken heart, a responsibility or just from monotony to start dreaming awake. I also know that is always an adventure to do it, we always get thrill about it, or at least we spectate how it can be. So, what happens or how we should act when something change in our plans? Do you want to hold on, to what we wish, hope or expect for, at the beginning of our trip? Or are we willing to through ourselves to the adventure? Do you want to take the risk? Or we are going to live the experience in a way we will be always controlling what will happen according our schedule? So, if you still think Im talking about traveling? first heads fake… no Im not. All those questions that we do ourselves, are the same ones that we make in life, while we are in front of transcendental decisions that we face. Do I get involved in this relationship with this person or continue my life as I thought a couple of months its going to be? Should I study this or work on that? Whats the next step in this relation that Im immerse for 6 years?
CEO & Publisher: José Ignacio Blavi Aros ignacio@blacksheepchile.com
Do I quit this job to start a business for my own? My wife cheated on me, do I break up with her, in spite she says she’s sorry and still loves me? I clearly don’t have the answers to those questions, or even less the ones you personally have, but I think I can help showing you that exist a question before all of them ¿How shall I live my life? ¿How do I want to live my life? Tomas, a friend that studied in the States had a professor in his clases of human resources, that make him do an interesting exercise. This was to write what is he expect that he’s friends and family say about him once he’s dead. You will surprise yourself with what will come out of it! When we are in front of options in life that complicate us or they seems too big and you don’t know what to do, we have to answer to that first question ¿How do I want to live my life? Or take out what you wrote in the exercise, and follow the same line between what you said you wanted to be and what you are really doing in your life. Life is a journey that we must take advantage and enjoy, in which we try to escape from ghosts from our childhood, youth or past lifes. Life is a journey of healing, an opportunity to be completely happy and reencounter with our deepest self being. Today you are in Patagonia, knowing a beautiful place in total armory with mother earth and you have the opportunity to choose, you have the opportunity of acting according your believes, being consequent with your self you can make out of your life an even better experience. Today you are in Patagonia and what are you going to do with your life later? Traveler, if you think this letter is for you, here comes the second heads fake, its for a special women. M I wish you the best, always.
About Black Sheep
Executive Director Christian Chahuan Creative Director: Cristian Manns Director e-comerce Marcelo Puga Directors: Christian Chahuan Marcelo Puga Cristian Manns José Ignacio Blavi Advertising Manager North Patagonia Marco Garrido Trail Tips: Rustyn Mesdag Where to find us:
Augusto Leguia Norte 224 Of. 41 Las Condes, Santiago Phone: (+56-2) 334.9836 • Baqueano 719 Puerto Natales, Patagonia
We are a grass roots travel guide magazine, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language Mag. We publish eight issues per year coinciding with Patagonia’s high season. Our web site community, with up-to-theminute info gives travelers like you a space to share experiences. We are ex pats and locals, we are travelers and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help you plan the next adventure to the bottom of the world. We believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We sleep in tents
and camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We Recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being part of the solution, not the problem. We believe we can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe you can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in Robin Hood. We
believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundaries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that in life what you pack in you will pack out. We believe travel is about experience culture, living like locals, respecting Pachamama, and going back home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe travelers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. We make a difference and we know you can join us.
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How to get around Patagonia This schedule is a rough guide, as times always change slightly. During winter and at the beginning and end of the summer season, there are fewer buses. There is no public transportation to Torres del Paine during winter. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions.
Chile / Argentina Buses Punta Arenas - Ushuaia Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Ushuaia - Punta Arenas Every day except Saturday 09.00
Puerto Natales - Ushuaia Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Ramirez 224
Every day Except Sunday 07.00
Ushuaia - Puerto Natales Every day except Sat. at 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Ramirez 224
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267
Every day Except Sun. 07.00 (with a bus change near PA)
Daily 07.30 10.00 13.30
17.00 19.30
Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900
Daily 08.30 10.30 14.00
El Calafate - Puerto Natales
Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456
Cootra Terminal de buses
Daily 08.30 M, W, F & Sun.: 07.00 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00 & 14.30
Zaajh Terminal de buses
Daily 08.30 W, F & Sun.: 08.00 T, Th & Sat.: 17.00
Punta Arenas - Rio Gallegos
Rio Gallegos - Punta Arenas
Buses Pacheco Colon 900 Ph: 242174
Buses Pacheco Terminal de Buses
Tue, Fri, Sun. 11:30
18.00 19.30
Natales – Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
Pacheco - Ramirez 224 - Phone: 56.61.242174 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 14.30 09.45 16.30 10.45 17.30 11.45 18.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 18.00 13.30 19.00 14.30 19.45 17.00 22.00
María José Buses - Esmeralda 869 - Phone: (56-61) 410951 - (56-61) 412218 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration
07.30 14.30 09.45 16.30 10.45 17.30 11.45 18.00
Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales
13.00 18.00 13.30 19.00 14.30 19.45 17.00 22.00
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS
Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales - El Calafate
Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236
Torres del Paine Buses
2010-2011 Season Schedule Dates
From Pudeto
From Refugio Pehoe
November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009
09.30* 12.00 18.00
10.00* 12.30 18.30
March 16 - 31, 2009
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
April 2009
12.00
12.30
*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2009 & 01/01/2010. One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person
Mon, Wen, Sat. 12:00
Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net
BUSESPACHECO.COM
Catamaran Hielos Patagonicos
56.61.242174 - 56.61.414513
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
W.W. Bruhin Daniel 2008 ©© Fotografia Bruhin Daniel 2008 Fotografia
THE BEST WAY TO TRAVEL PATAGONIA
Regular Services:
•BUSES MARÍA JOSÉ• Regular Services:
Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas: 7:30 - 10:00 - 14:00 - 17:00- 19:30
Torres Del Paine: 7:30 - 14:30 ( all year)
Puerto Natales - Ushuaia: 7:30
Private Services
Puerto Natales - El Calafate: 7:00 - 8:00- 8:30 Esmeralda 869 - Puerto Natales. Phone: (56-61) 410951 - (56-61) 412218 www.mjpatagonia.com - patagoniamj@hotmail.com
BED AND BREAKFAST www.natalesbedandbreakfast.cl Puerto Natales
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WWW.NAVIMAG .COM
NAVIMAG 56.2 4423165 RESERVAS 56.2 4423114
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Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region. Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the
MIRIAM PARRA´S VILLAGE Handcrafted Jewelry Coffee Shop Tabacco shop & Souvenirs Bike Rentals Fogon: Chilean Live Music Wifi Zone and Computers From 9pm to 11pm everyday Bulnes 555 - Puerto Natales Phone: (56-61) 410931
Sustainable architecture and minimalist design In the heart of Puerto Natales
Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism. Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.
questions & answers If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day? This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop. If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning? This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A. What is Navimag? Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt. What the heck is a “Zodiac”? A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine. Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day? Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591. Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores. Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them? Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes). What about shopping hours midday? Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.
What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Why is there so much trash on the beach? That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up. What about recycling programs? Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo. And all of the dogs running around? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... How much do the taxis cost? 1.000 pesos within city limits. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang. Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.
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Leave No Trace in Patagonia 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.
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In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.
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Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.
Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.
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2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
3. Dispose of Waste Properly
Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentina Trekking Dorotea
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Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.
In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.
Puerto Natales, Chile
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Preserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting nonnative species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
6. Respect Wildlife Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance. Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises. Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping.This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu.
Campsite
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Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.
Park Enterance
Chile
4. Leave What you Find
Pa tagon ia Ic e Fie ld - C am po de H ie lo Sur
To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.
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Puerto Natales Punta Arenas
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Come and hike the trail Hike the Aonni’s trail In the way to the southern most tip of the continent (Cape Froward), by the border of the strait of Magellan, 30 min south the city of Punta Arenas, you can find the plant were this unique water in the world is bottled. The place is in a protected land of 1,400 acres, where you can find an amazing trail you can hike during the morning, or after a nice lunch, the scenary is amazing, and after you do the hike you can go directly to the caffe that they have inside the plant, where you will find not only a souvenir store, but a person that is going to explain you the proces and history of the plant and if you want you can try all the water you want, and refresh yourself with it. The entrance is free and we consider it a must to do in the near by Punta Arenas Aonni’s Birth Aonni is born from a a low presure Artessian Aquifer whose data is 10.000 years old. It’s chracter is slightly sweet, smooth to the palate, low in mineral content and with a neutral Ph. The water burst to the surface in obne of the most virgen places of the World, the Chilean Patagonia, land of the Natives AoniKenk It’s History The very first known data regarding the source of origin of our Aonni water, dates back to 1670, when the British Explorer an Navigator: Sir John Narbough on his way from the Atlantic to the Pacific had to refill the sail boat’s tanks with fresh water for the crew, so they could continue their travel, this was on the midst of the Straits of Magullan. Once thwey tasted the quality of this vital element, finding it to be of a unique freshness and purity, Sir John baptized this bay as “Fresh Water Bay” and untill tose days this is the geographic location where Aonni water is sourced and bottled from. Located in the East of the Brunswick Peninsula, incide a privately owned land of slightly over 1200 acres totally protected with no industrial activity or human intervention is where Aonni is born, naturally Virgen Water, from the Chilean Patagonia
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Bariloche, Argentina San Carlos de Bariloche is Argentina’s gateway to Patagonia. The city’s name originated from a typo on a letter addressing a major English settler of the area as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos. Despite the error, the name stuck. The city center is an eclectic mix of shops, chocolate stores, lodging, lively bars and packed dance clubs. Beyond the center, you’ll catch views ranked by National Geographic as some of the ‘worlds’ best.’ Feast your eyes on the hand-carved log and stone architecture and the lake and mountains beyond it. The area’s main attraction, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, features a ton of easily accessible trails. Created in 1934, the Park boasts rugged
POPULATION: 150,000 WHAT’S GROOVY: Parque Municipal Llao Llao, eXtremo Sur (Morales 765) for kayaking, Carol Jones (M.Victoria 5600) for guided horse tours JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (ambulance)
questions & answers How did Bariloche get its name? Bariloche interestingly enough got its name from a typo. At the end of the 19th century an English pioneer of the Nahuel Huapi area, Enrique Paterson, wrote a letter to a settler of the southeast sector of Nahuel Huapi, Carlos Wiederhold Piwonka. Paterson mistakenly referred to Mr. Piwonka as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos (Don being a polite way to refer to an owner of property or a company, and San, referring to a saint.). The name not only was a compliment to Mr. Piwonka but it also stuck as the area’s name. On July 26, 1927 the name was officially decreed the title of Bariloche.
number 30, kiddy-corner from the YPF gas station has the maps and information you are looking for.
What is the usual ski season?
Can I hike year-round?
The ski season typically runs from mid-June to mid-October.
Yes, the lower elevation trails are generally free of snow all year. The higher elevation trails are available from November to May.
Where do the boat cruises leave from? From Puerto Pañuelo, 25 km west of town, across from the Llao Llao Hotel. Can I drink the water? Absolutely! It may be the best you ever tasted. How many people live here? There are between 85,000 and 150,000 full-time residents, depending on who you ask. How far is El Bolsón from here?
When is fishing season? The Limay River, one of the largest rivers in the area, drains into Nahuel Huapi. It is the best body of water for catching big fish. This eastern flowing river is notorious for large rainbow trout in November and December and large brown trout in March and April.
El Bolsón is about an hour and a half south. It’s a gorgeous drive and well worth the trip if you have an extra day or two. How far is it to the Chilean border? The Chilean border is about two hours away by car, traveling through Villa La Angostura. How do I communicate with the world?
How can I check airline status?
Look for a locutorio, many have both internet and telephone booths available.
Go to www.aa2000.com.ar to find out if your plane is on time.
Where can I change money? There is a casa de cambio on Avenida Mitre, one block from the Centro Civico.
Where can I get the best steak? El Boliche de Alberto is Bariloche’s “it” place for succulent steak. There are three locations, the restaurant at Bustillo kilometer 8 having the best reputation.
mountains, such as Mount Tronador, flourishing Valdivian rainforests and the windblown steppe. From day hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy every style of mountaineering and trekking. The single tracks lead to manned huts offering beds, hot meals and, sometimes, home-brewed beers. Check with Club Andino for maps, trail conditions and other inquiries. Bariloche is also home to South America’s largest ski area, Catedral. A small village in itself, Catedral offers over 30 chair lifts, 120 kilometers (74 miles) of groomed runs and 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain. Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity center with mountain biking, hiking and outdoor concerts.
Approximately 15 minutes.
How far is the airport from the city center?
Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails? Club Andino, on the corner of 20 de Febrero,
What’s up with the siesta? Argentines need to catch up on their sleep. With dinner starting around 10 p.m., it is safe to say the Argentines are night owls. Stores in el centro are more apt to stay open during the day. Grocery stores and locutorios tend not to go on siesta. Normal siesta hours are from 12:30 to 4:30 (give or take a half hour). Do I need a reservation for the refugios (mountain huts)? No, but they are on a first-come, first-serve basis. Is it worth renting a car? Absolutely. Many of the treasures of the area are not accessible by bus. Also with the freedom of a car you can come and go as you like. Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi? Yes, the Lochness monster’s distant relative, Nahuelito, lives in the lake, but he is very friendly. What are they looking for at the traffic stops? We aren’t sure, but we have found that the less Spanish you speak, the better. What’s with all large groups in matching outfits?
is a hot spot for graduating classes to come and celebrate their new-found freedom. They come in huge groups and all wear the same rented outfits as kind of a rah-rah thing. The Brazilians do the same thing in the winter. What’s with all the Saint Bernards and their owners? These guys sell you the right to take a picture of their dog. Beware though. If you take a picture of the canine without paying for it, chaos may ensue. Where should I go to get the best sandwich? Morfy’s, side street next to the civic center. Where can I find the best ice cream? There’s a rainbow of ice cream shops in the area, but Jujua is hands down the favorite. Find them in the city center, in the kilometers as well as in El Bolsón,Villa La Angostura and San Martín. What year did the first car show up in Bariloche? The first car made its way to Bariloche in 1910. It was a Mercedes Benz and was known as the “car of the government” due to its famous passengers. A Ford T was brought in a bit later. When did the Bariloche’s chocolate fascination begin? The first chocolate store was created on the corner of Mitre and Beschtedt in 1928. The Swiss pioneer, Carlos Triberholn, is the grandfather of South America’s best chocolate.
It’s the latest thing, grab a few friends, start a team and pick your own colors. No, seriously. Bariloche
San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina
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Editorial de Bitácora Que tipo de cosas son las que buscamos o cuales son las metas que nos ponemos, Como es que las perseguimos, como damos el orden de prelación correcto para seguir por una línea clara de trabajo día a día… Estas son preguntas que parecieran pertenecer a un momento de introspección profundo en nuestra vida, pero la verdad es que son las preguntas que un competidor o equipo de carrera de aventura debe hacerse una vez que planea, comienza y participa en una expedición, carrera o aventura outdoors Hoy estamos a un par de días de la largada de la carrera de aventura mas importante y salvaje del mundo, la Wenger Patagonian Expedition Race. Una carrera de un millón quinientos mil kilómetros recorridos por los competidores, solo para llegar a la partida, 3 disciplinas; trekking, kayak, mountain bike, 14 selecciones, 15 check points, 9 días, una gran búsqueda por la meta y solo un mapa y una brújula para encontrarla. Son en estas oportunidades
donde enfrentamos nuestros miedos mas profundos, donde nos conectamos realmente con eso que nos constituye como personas, con eso que nos diferencia del resto, con esas sombras, fantasmas y ángeles que nos acompañan en nuestro viaje. Por ello el nivel espiritual del competidor se eleva y busca en la inmensidad una respuesta, busca llenar ese vacío, con el que nos encontramos y reconocemos al darnos cuenta vivencialmente que somos menos que un punto en la inmensidad, que somos parte de un todo en el cual debemos entender sentir y cooperar para lograr un desarrollo pleno. Hoy tenemos la gracia de explorar y experimentar esto en masa, con la elite en deportes outdoors, con los atletas mas preparados mental y físicamente, 56 súper hombres que en equipos mixtos de 4 integrantes perseguirán la meta mas preciada, conseguir un cupo dentro de ese 25% de los equipos que históricamente logran terminar la carrera.
El año pasado ese titulo fue obtenido por el equipo de España,
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Día anterior a la carrera Japón, Inglaterra, Estados unidos, hoy me vuelvo a reencontrar con East Wind comandado por Masato un experto en navegación, sabio deportista y estratega, un perfecto embajador de su país, además de amigo personal. También con el Equipo Gear Junky de estados unidos, que como vaqueros persiguen sus metas día a día, en el cual uno de sus integrantes en la ceremonia de clausura y premiación del año pasado le pidió matrimonio a la mujer de su equipo diciendo, que si fueron capaz de terminar esta carrera son capaces de hacer lo sea que la vida les anteponga, fue un momento muy emocionante. Son muchas las demás caras conocidas con las que me he topado, con las que he compartido experiencias extremas inolvidables. Esperemos este año tenga esa misma gota de fraternidad que caracteriza el Patagonian Expedition Race y que hace volver a las selecciones una y otra vez. Espero disfruten de esta aventura y vayamos juntos descubriendo estos lugares donde nunca la mano del hombre a entrado a intervenir, siguiendo tan puros como hace cientos de miles de años atrás.
Que es lo mas precioso que has visto en tu vida? Piensa en eso y multiplícalo por el infinito… puedes mirarla en cualquier ángulo, durante la mañana o al final del día, en su mejor momento o en su peor y siempre te sacará suspiros , siempre te inspirará, te va a contener, abrazar y hará sentir único y al mismo tiempo acompañado de por vida.
dentro del Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Los equipos van muy tranquilos, descansando, durmiendo este viaje de 5 horas. Viajo con el Equipo francés, uno de cuatro continentes uno chileno, el ingles que fue el ganador del año pasado y mis amigos del equipo de Japón.
Masato, el líder del equipo me ha comentado que este año tienen Esta es la mujer perfecta, la ambiciosa meta de ganar esta es la mujer que nos entrega carrera y cree que el desafío las maravillas naturales mas principal se encuentra en las zonas imponentes y admiradas, es la de treking, las que constituyen mujer que se viste de gala al final mas de 260 kilómetros de cruce de nuestro continente y la llamamos de montañas, grandes precipicios, Patagonia. La tierra mas hermosa paso sobre turbas, eso sin contar y prístina, casi inexplorada que lo que mencionó es su mayor combina hermosos glaciares, recompensa, contemplar los horizontes infinitos, montañas hermosos paisajes y escenario de que nos rodean y miran desde sus los que formaremos parte. cumbres cubiertas de blanco y nos invitan a ser parte de ellas. Uno de os integrantes del equipo Es el día previo a la carrera, dimos una largada simbólica en Punta Arenas y ahora vamos camino al verdadero punto de partida para este año, Hotel Las Torres,
4 continents viaja con su señora y guagua de 18 meses, una niña mas que preciosa que es contenida constantemente por su padre, incluso cuando los entrevisté para la producción video gráfica de la
carrera el sostenía a su hija en sus brazos. Que mejor ejemplo del espíritu de la carrera. Me siento orgulloso de ser parte de algo de esta envergadura y se lo debemos al organizador y fundador de la carrera Stjepan Pavicic, que con la dirección de Ann, su novia, hacen crecer año a año esto que además de todo lo que les he contado, ayuda increíblemente a promocionar nuestro país y nuestra Patagonia como destino turístico, ya que con mas horas de televisión en Europa que el parís Dakar, nos entregan un activo inmensurable para la mayoría de las personas que en chile siquiera saben el nombre del encuentro y son beneficiadas indirectamente por el mismo Por lo tanto, aprendamos a agradecer y a disfrutar del evento y síguenos en la bitácora, donde día a día luchamos por completar lo que nos arroje nuestra Patagonia, haciéndote parte de la historia.
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Growing up wild in Patagonia...
Firebush Ciruelillo/Notro Embothrium coccineum
Mata Negra Junellia tridens
Streaked Maiden Camanilla Olsynium biflorum
Zapatito de la Virgen Calceolaria uniflora
Chloraea magellanica OrquĂdea Porcelana
Buttercup Hierba de la Vaca Ranunculus peduncularis
Field Chickweed Cuernecita/Cerasito Cerastium arvense
Arvejilla Lathyrus magellanicus
Lady’s Slipper Capachito/Topa-Topa Calceolaria biflora
Cadillo/Amor Seco Acaena ovalifolia
These are just a few of the wildflowers you can find in Torres del Paine National Park and around Patagonia this time of year. Reunite with your inner florist and get out there among the orchids and lady slippers. To further sate your fancy for flora identification, try to get your hands on Flora Torres del Paine: Guia del Campo/Field Guide, published by Editorial Fantastico Sur. Photo credits: Christina Cooke,Veronica Irribarra, and Heather Poyhonen.
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Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
questions & answers What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas? Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map. What does Punta Arenas mean? Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C. Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street.
Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those
Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive. How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun! How much do taxis cost? All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos. Where can I change money? There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano.
interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.
Ushuaia via Primera Angostura.
How far is the airport out of town?
What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center?
About 20km or 30 minutes.
To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church.
About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population.
Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map?
Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent.
Can I drink the tap water?
Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almostoff-the-map trekking, fishing, and more.
Yes, tap water is absolutely safe.
What are my penguin options?
How far is Torres del Paine from here?
1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway.
4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance.
2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas?
How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas?
3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day.
Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time…
Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria.
What type of day tours are there?
Where is the bus station?
Is there any public transportation?
How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia?
Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas.
250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to
How many people live here?
How much is an airport transfer? A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles, which take a bit longer because they have more people to pick up, but they’re more economical. Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown? Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.
Lake District & Patagonia
You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended). Do the street dogs bite? Yes, gringos only.
56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl
e r r a t ic ro ck, Ba qu edan o 719, Pu er to N a ta l e s , C h i l e , P a ta gon i a • www. e rr a t i c ro c k . c o m • + 5 6 - 6 1 - 4 1 0 3 5 5
erratic rock
hostel • guide service • rental equipment • transportation • information center • recycling center
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Calafate, Argentina
POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)
questions & answers
Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets
Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed.This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.
El Calafate
When are the stores open, anyway?
How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities.
In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.
and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.
a reasonable price. What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).
El Chaltén
What’s the weather like in these parts?
speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén.They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles.
It’s Patagonia.The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer.
How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate?
What if I don’t have lodging reservations?
By bus. It takes about 3.5 hours.
Who was Perito Moreno?
Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?
Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.
Not really.The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m.Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén.
The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village.
What about Upsala? Can I visit that glacier?
Are there ice hikes on the glacier?
How many people live in El Chaltén?
You can’t visit Upsala right now.The waterway is blocked by massive icebergs.
There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice.To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip. Bring your own lunch for the excursions.The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time!
200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985.
What can I do in Calafate? Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit five other glaciers in the area (Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim).
How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $26 ARS per person. By taxi it’s about $70 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate?
Is it safe at night? Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. Where can I camp in El Calafate?
The information center is in the bus station.
There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities.The best one is El Ovejero.
Can I drink the tap water?
Are there any cheap eating options?
In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.
Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for
Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?
What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any banks, or places to change money. They are installing an ATM, but it still doesn’t have cash, so best to bring your pesos with you. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free.Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leaveno-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff
Punta Arenas, Bories Nº 655 What you’re looking in outdoors clothes
How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto. Where can I camp in El Chaltén? In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs about ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely.There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?
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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential
questions & answers What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter. How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m. When’s the latest I can start my trek? In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park around 2.30 p.m., más o menos. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.
Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay
What’s the Park entrance fee? 15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD). How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free. Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas. How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios. Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though.
long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.
the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight.
fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.
If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first?
Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples.
Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Is it better to trek the Park clockwise or counterclockwise? You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass. How much does the catamaran between Pehoe and Pudeto cost? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?
What time is sunrise and sunset?
Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season.
It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter
vCan you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s
Punta Arenas O’Higgins 1026 Patagonia Chilena hostal@alfindelmundo.cl
www.alfindelmundo.cl
You can find us in the center of Punta Arenas Downtown, two blocks from the main square, Supermarkets, airplanes offices and the best restaurantes.
Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Should I worry about bugs in the Park? Bug repellent is definitely a good idea, especially on the back of the Circuit or when the weather warms up and the wind chills out. I’m doing the circuit. Is there anything I should know before I go? Do the circuit counterclockwise. It’s a good idea to start with the W. This will lighten your food load when you head over the pass. After Campamento Perros, make sure you go LEFT, following the PINK ribbons. Do not cross the river. (The right-side trail with orange paint is old, unkempt and knee-deep muddy for a couple of hours.) How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.
Mandala Andino
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Santiago, Chile POPULATION: 5.428.490 FOUNDED: February 12, 1541 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hick to Cerro Provincia JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
For most visitors, sprawling Santiago de Chile, its mediterranean hillsides, and the snow-covered Andean crest are their first impressions of the country. Santiago may luck Buenos Aires’s international profile, but its finest attractions can match or surpass those of Argentina’s capital. And few world capitals can match the skiing, hiking, climbing and white-water rafting and kayaking that are barely an hour beyond the city limits. Since the return to constitutional government and subsequent economic expansion, the city has improved greatly. Tasteful contemporary apartments have replaced unsalvageable structures in a downtown construction boom. Barrio Bellavista has enjoyed a gastronomic and nightlife boom, and
international commerce flourishes in Las Condes at El Golf. More than a third of all chileans, live in Gran Santiago. The locus of economic and political power, ha capital has grown at the expense of the regions, but unevenly so-some communes (districts), have become prosperous, others remain desperately poor. You have tons of outdoor’s things to do here, like trekking Cerro Provincia staying a night over the city, rock climbing at Cajon del Maipo and enjoying a really nice tour to one of the great local vinyards for ONLY a “little” sip of wine.
questions & answers Do I want to stay at Santiago for more than a day? Theres much more things to do than what most of guide books tell you.They aren’t bad, but its not a little town, so the must over there o a few steps forward than visiting just the cathedral, the main square and Cerro Santa Lucia. What can I do in Santiago? Go for a trek or a hick, its a valley so there are more than 2 trails to discover. I love the area of Cerro Provincia, you can see everything just getting half the way.You can also go rafting, climbing to Cajon del Maipo, and if
you don’t have much time and you’re dying to do it, there are a few amazing walls near down town. Can I visit a glacier? You are not in Patagonia any more, but actually an hour away you can trek and get to an amazing glacier. How do I get to/from the Santiago airport? You can catch a taxi for $10.000 pesos.Yo can do it also by the airport shuttle, which its cheaper if you are traveling alone, if not just take a taxi.
Where is the information center in Santiago? Go to Providencia near Manuel Montt Metro Station. Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. So bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. What’s the weather like in these parts? Now you will be dying, sweating almost your blood out. At least if you’re getting use to
Patagonia’s weather. Is it safe at night? In most places you will be, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. What are the eating options? You have a lot to discover, but go to Bellavista, walk a bit and find a nice restaurant there. You can alsso find there nice places to chill and party after a great day of hicks, there we can recommend you Bar Constitución at calle Constitución, in the middle of Bellavista. Is it dangerous to walk at nigth alone? Yes. if you are counting travel checks siting on the sidewalk in downtown.
Puerto Varas, Chile POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
questions & answers
Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the
In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.
iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.
species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout. What’s the nightlife like? There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
How do I get to Puerto Varas?
Will I have any problems with the water or food?
If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD.
In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?
What else is there to do?
Where can I stay without breaking the bank? There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people. How should I dress for the climate?
That’s Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m). How is the fishing in this area? Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various
Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few. There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla. What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?
There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all. How can I get around without a car? In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.
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BEST NEW STILL WATER 2010 Interbev, Florida, USA. BEST NEW STILL SPARKLING WATER 2010. BEST NEW STILL WATER 2010 Water Innovation Awards, Gleneagles, Scotland.