Black Sheep february issue 36 by Black Sheep

Black Sheep • Issue 3 6 • Season 5

February 2010

Black

Special Edition

Sheep

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Guide Magazine

Trail Tips P h o t o b y Va l e n t i n o Z a l d i v a r To r r e s

From the Pros’

The adveturer daily log Following the race in the trail

Wenger Patagonian Expedition Race The adventure to the end of the world

FREE

thebestthingsinlifeare

Recycle this paper! Pass it on.

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS LOVE ADVENTURE

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Editors Letter Every day we pass by near a lot of world wonders without giving them to much importance omitting the great value that they have in our lives, in our society, in our history. This because our world present us other necessities with urgency, loosing the sense of what to look for in our life’s, and admire, contemplate, be part of an ambience, a landscape or a unique creation of worldwide level abandon its value. We have sovereignty above one of the most pristine, precious, special places in the planet and however just a few of us adventure ourselves to come and help in this recondite place. In Torres del Paine Park you speak less spanish than english or any other language between visitors and just a few know that this month 13 countries will compete in the most remote and dangerous adventure and expedition race in the world. My name is José Ignacio, but you can call me Cote, Im the CEO and Editor of Patagonia’s Black Sheep Travel Guide Magazine, and surrounded by hundreds miles of horizon with long and uncountable strips of water who builds a puzzle in our land, lots of green, endless glaciers and mountains that look at us from their uniques summits painted in white, I find myself working to give you the best hot top info in what to do and how to manage your trip across Patagonia. Today Im participating in the Patagonian Expedition Race, and as I was saying, it goether teams from different countries as England, Germany, Brazil, Spain, USA, Switzerland, among others that fight to win the eight edition of more than 600 Km, who incorporate disciplines like Kayak, Climbing, Trekking, Mountain bike, in which no more of the 25% of the teams finish it.

About Black Sheep

José Ignacio Blavi Aros, Publisher This world class event is an example of chilean entrepreneurship that cover hundreds of pages in magazines and newspapers worldwide which promote and help Patagonia. And the founder and general manager Stjepan Pavicic, compatriot from Magallanes, left his life as a geologist in order to put his full energies to the race for make it successful. But incongruous and inconsequentially with what make us happy as a country to have such assets, I wonder how many people and companies collaborate in initiatives like this ones. Its a shame that I can only thank a couple of people like Ismael Mena, Ignacio Morales or companies such as Navimag or El Mercurio, Becouse there are many others who could contribute with their experience and resources to build something even bigger. We are a powerful country, when we get together we create huge examples of value as Fundación Teletón and Un Techo para Chile that made us proud and others imitate abroad. Thats why we have to me ours Patagonia, lets do this race and this kind of entrepreneurship our own. Lets create synergy. The work that i did in this race i want to dedicate to my engine of inspiration Theresa, to all the people that lacks one, so go out and find that thing that takes you do huge and amazing things. To my parents, for giving me that constant support and of course to all of you travelers wherever you’ll be.

We are a grass roots travel guide magazine, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language Mag. We publish eight issues per year coinciding with Patagonia’s high season. Our web site community, with up-to-theminute info gives travelers like you a space to share experiences. We are ex pats and locals, we are travelers and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help you plan the next adventure to the bottom of the world. We believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We sleep in tents and camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We Recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being part of the solution, not the problem. We believe we can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled. We believe in alternative power. We believe Publisher:

José Ignacio Blavi Aros ignacio@patagoniablacksheep.com

::: www.andesgear.cl :::::::

Consulting: Cristian Manns

Directors:

Rustyn Mesdag Pilar Irribarra

in nature remaining open for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe you can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundaries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that in life what you pack in you will pack out. We believe travel is about experience culture, living like locals, respecting Pachamama, and going back home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe travelers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. We make a difference and we know you can join us.

Special Thanks:

Stepan Pavicic Ann Christine Meidinger Conaf Miguel Blavi Sebastian Campana

Trail tips: Rustyn Mesdag

Where to find us:

Avenida Vitacura 2939 10th floor Las Condes, Santiago Phone: (+56-2) 431.5353 • Baqueano 719 Puerto Natales, Patagonia

::::::::::::::::::::

THE MOST COMPLETE ASSORTMENT OF OUTDOOR CLOTHING & GEAR Mall Pionero - local # 212 - Av. Pdte. Frei 01110 - Punta Arenas - Phone: (+61) 215582

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How to get around Patagonia This schedule is a rough guide, as times always change slightly. During winter and at the beginning and end of the summer season, there are fewer buses. There is no public transportation to Torres del Paine during winter. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions.

Chile / Argentina Buses Punta Arenas - Ushuaia Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Ushuaia - Punta Arenas Every day except Saturday 09.00

Puerto Natales - Ushuaia Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Ramirez 224

Every day Except Sunday 07.00

Ushuaia - Puerto Natales Every day except Sat. at 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Ramirez 224

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Daily 07.30 10.00 13.30

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Every day Except Sun. 07.00 (with a bus change near PA)

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales 17.00 19.30

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Daily 08.30 10.30 14.00

Puerto Natales - El Calafate

El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456

Cootra Terminal de buses

Daily 08.30 M, W, F & Sun.: 07.00 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00 & 14.30

Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236

Torres del Paine Buses

Zaajh Terminal de buses

Buses Pacheco Colon 900 Ph: 242174

Buses Pacheco Terminal de Buses

Tue, Fri, Sun. 11:30

Pacheco - Ramirez 224 - Phone: 56.61.242174 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

2008-2009 Season Schedule Dates

W, F & Sun.: 08.00 T, Th & Sat.: 17.00

Rio Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS 18.00 19.30

Daily 08.30

Punta Arenas - Rio Gallegos

Natales – Torres del Paine

From Pudeto

From Refugio Pehoe

November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009

09.30* 12.00 18.00

10.00* 12.30 18.30

March 16 - 31, 2009

12.00 18.00

12.30 18.30

April 2009

12.00

12.30

*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2009 & 01/01/2010. One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person

Mon, Wen, Sat. 12:00

Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net

Guided Full Day Torres Del paine • Perito moreno 7:00am to 9:00pm + time in destination + time enjoyng - time in aduana

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

Ramirez 224 Ph. 56.61.414513 Because some views cannot be seen via public transporation... Emsa Rent-a-Car • Punta Arenas • Puerto Natales Jeeps • Cars • Pickups 4x4 • Vans

www.emsarentacar.cl

Puerto Natales Eberhard 547 Phone: (56 61) 614.388 email: natales@viaterra.cl

Punta Arenas Airport Phone: (56 61) 210.861

Punta Arenas Roca 1044 Phone: (56 61) 614.381 email: rentacar@viaterra.cl

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Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region. Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the

The hand’s of Patagonia Take this ARTWORK with you

Puerto Natales, Phillipi 550 - 56.9.6.8420904

Book Exchange English book’s about

PATAG O N I A WIFI - REAL COFFE - INTERNET Blanco Encalada 226, Puer to Natales.

LAVACENTER Laundry Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 99590447 • Blanco Encalada 417, Puerto Natales, Chile

Lowe Alpine • North Face • Marmot Primus • Sierra Designs

Rent-Equipment Cecilia

Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism. Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.

questions & answers If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day? This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop. If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning? This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A. What is Navimag? Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt. What the heck is a “Zodiac”? A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine. Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day? Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591. Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores. Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them? Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes).

9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Eberhard 214 Pto. Natales • agenciacecilia@yahoo.es 56.61.412589 • Credit cards accepted

What about shopping hours midday? Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.

What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Why is there so much trash on the beach? That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up. What about recycling programs? Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo. And all of the dogs running around? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... How much do the taxis cost? 1.000 pesos within city limits. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang. Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.

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El Rincon del Tata Restaurant Un lugar con histoia 56.061.614291 Arturo Prat 236, Puerto Natales, Chile

Turismo Zaahj Since 1961 at your service

Linea Regular Internacional Puerto Natales - Calafate Calafate - Puerto Natales Perito Moreno 061.412260 Parque Torres del Paine Ar turo Prat 236/270 w w w. t u r i s m o z a a h j . c o . c l

• • • • •

Rent a Car Tourism Agency Navimag Tickets Antarctic Information Flyfishing • Spinning • Trolling

Baquedano 558 • Puerto Natales

info@amazingpatagonia.com Office: 61 - 410 486 • Cell: 09 - 748 938 22

Punta Arenas O’higgins 1026 Patagonia Chilena

You can find us in the center of Punta Arenas Downtown, two blocks from the main square, Supermarkets, airplanes offices and the best restaurantes. hostal@alfindelmundo.cl

www.alfindelmundo.cl

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Internet Coffee Shop Travel Agency Airlines Tickets LAN and Sky Airline Manuel Bulnes Nº499 thenethouse@chile.com

The Dried Fruit Guy

feminine hygiene on the trail

Baquedano 443

Puerto Natales Eberhard 169 • Puerto Natales, Chile

56.61.411472 - Pto. Natales

eat. drink. drink. drink. drink. DANCE!

bar.toore@gmail.com

On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month. A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods. For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag. As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient. Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day. The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.

Ancestrological Art Two Silversmiths Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop,Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318

DON’T NEED W O R D S

While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by experts, good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe.

keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Natales.

Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, The Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silversmiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to the next, until there you are, not entirely sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it, until you make them precious.” And that is just what they do.

Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work.Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery. They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, gold, you name it.You can find them in the store with a wood door, Eberhard 316, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.

When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to

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T-SHIRTS FOR SALE!!

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL MOVEMENT... GET YOUR BLACK SHEEP UNIFORM NOW.

Invitados especiales:

Dean Potter & Timmy ONeill

PuntaArenas. PuertoNatales. PuertoVaras. Santiago

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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential

Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay

long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.

questions & answers What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter. How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m. When’s the latest I can start my trek? In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park around 2.30 p.m., más o menos.

Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. What’s the Park entrance fee? 15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD). How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free. Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas. How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly

45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios. Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town. Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Is it better to trek the Park clockwise or counterclockwise? You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.

A place with history Barbeques Lodging Horse Riding

Km 38 norte, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile. Phone: (56) (2) 1969630 Reservations Punta Arenas: Ph. 56.61.245494 Email: reservas@hotel3pasos.cl

www.hotel3pasos.com

How much does the catamaran between Pehoe and Pudeto cost? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter. Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?

the winter off-season. Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection. Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio. Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples. Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Should I worry about bugs in the Park? Bug repellent is definitely a good idea, especially on the back of the Circuit or when the weather warms up and the wind chills out. I’m doing the circuit. Is there anything I should know before I go? Do the circuit counterclockwise. It’s a good idea to start with the W. This will lighten your food load when you head over the pass. After Campamento Perros, make sure you go LEFT, following the PINK ribbons. Do not cross the river. (The rightside trail with orange paint is old, unkempt and knee-deep muddy for a couple of hours.) How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.

Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during

La Taberna de Yeyo The women side of Patagonia

Café, Restaurant & Handicrafts Chorrillos 845 • Puerto Natales (56.61) 412 417

girls working in the middle of nowhere will take care of you. cafeteria@hotel3pasos.cl 56.61.415284 Cerro Castillo. Border.

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Patagonia. Doggy style.

These dogs need your help. Contact perros@chileaustral.com or call 56.61.262.607 (English, Spanish & dog spoken.)

More info of the race at patagonianexpeditionrace.com

The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership.

www.erraticrock.com e r r a t i c ro c k p a t a g o n i a - B a q u e d a n o 7 1 9 Puerto Natales, Chile

Helping the planet one trekker at a time...

Washing with dirt. brought by the experts.

Free Information & Equipment Seminar 3 p.m. every day • Puerto Natales, Chile Come grab a cup of coffee and join the erratic rock team at 3 p.m. every day for a 2-hour, no-nonsense information session about trekking in Torres del Paine, equipment needs, packing for the trail, adventure options, meal preparation and anything else you need to know. All directly from the local guides.

Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat: the grease in meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. And we especially need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use non-biodegradable products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left-over grease on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue. Impossible to remove without soap and hot water... or is it? Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fistful of dirt and scrub! The small granules of dirt and

pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any of the tough-to-scrub food particles from your dishes. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!

EBERHARD 302 PUERTO NATALES

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THE EIGHT EDITION WITH MORE THAN 600KM ACROSS TIERRA DEL FUEGO The WENGER PATAGONIAN EXPEDITION RACE® is a true expedition, taking teams of four through lands previously unknown to the human eye. Racers receive minimal assistance as they traverse through the pristine southern Patagonia by means of trekking, climbing and related rope work, kayaking, mountain biking, and backcountry navigation. They often cover hundreds of kilometres without seeing a soul. Imitating the journey’s of our Indian forefathers, competitors advance over plains, mountains, glaciers, native forests, swampland, rivers, lakes and channels; guided only by mind and spirit but driven on by physical stamina and experience. Every edition features a unique route. Past racers have found themselves in the Southern Continental Ice Field, the Straight of Magellan, Torres del Paine,

Tierra del Fuego, the Beagle Channel and Cape Horn. The land is diverse, the challenge real, the adventure untamed. Athletes from Australia, Canada, USA, México, New Zealand, South Africa, Denmark, Sweden, Russia, Spain, France, Germany, Turkey, Great Britain, Czech Republic, Colombia, Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina and Chile have already taken part in this experience. In seven races we have covered over 5000 kilometres. More important than distance however, has been the adventure and exploration of one of the most untouched and isolated places in the world. We have been inspired by the magical landscapes and fauna, while being pushed to new heights by nature’s obstacles and unpredictable weather. The WENGER PATAGONIAN EXPEDITION RACE® changes lives.

Race organizer Stjepan Pavicic said: “We have tried to develop a route with historical significance and one that will give competitors the best - and most challenging - experience of the most remote and pristine area of Chilean Patagonia. “But the value of this race is not only in the physical and mental challenge; it is also in spreading a message to preserve this region. This year that message will be even stronger as the race will pass through Wildlife Conservation Society’s reserve ‘Karukinka’, the conservation area we collaborate to preserve and develop in a sustainable manner.”

A RACE TO SAVE For centuries the extreme isolation of the southernmost region of America has been a favorable characteristic for the preservation of the flora and fauna. However, in the past decades, this isolation has turned against it, permitting the devastation of vast areas of forest without anyone being able to react quickly enough. Time is of the essence as corporate interests less concerned with sustainable development, such as the logging industry, are pressuring the Chilean government to grant them access to even more of the lands. It is our belief that if the world is exposed to the unique and inspiring beauty this region holds, they will choose sustainable development over environmental degredation. Public awareness lies at the heart of any conservation movement. Our mission is to awaken the world to the importance and beauty of the southern Patagonia, thus ensuring that it will be the treasure it is today for future generations.

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AFTER THE STORM COCHAMO VALLEY, CHILEAN PATAGONIA

At the end of the rainbow, the Pared Elefante and Cerro Capicúa rise amidst clearing skies. The community of Cochamó took action to protect this magical place, an effort that culminated in the decision by the Government of Chile to protect the waters of the whole basin, assuring its sustainable development. To take an active part in the conservation of Cochamó, visit www.cochamo.org. JOSE IGNACIO MORALES

patagonia.com

Find us in Patagonia: Pucón: Kebba, Fresia 243. Coyhaique: Condor Explorer, Dussen 357. Punta Arenas: Jordan, Zona Franca Loc. 132 1° Piso; Grado Zero, Lautaro Navarro 1091. Puerto Natales: One Ako, Eberhardt 302. Torres del Paine: Hotel Explora. Patagonia Santiago Store: Av. La Dehesa 1445 Loc. 2074.Tel. (02) 216 8420.

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THE MOST EXTREME AND WILD RACE IN THE WORLD

16/12/09 20:08:08

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A SEGUIR LA CARRERA! ¡

Cuerpo a cuerpo hemos seguido a los competidores en cada una de las etapas de la carrera mas extrema del mundo, aquí en nuestra Patagonia. Día a día nos enfrentamos a una serie innumerable de maravillas y pasamos junto a ellas sin darle mayor importancia, omitiendo la trascendencia que ellas tienen en nuestras vidas, en nuestra sociedad, en nuestra historia. Esto porque nuestro mundo nos presenta con urgencia otras necesidades, perdiendo el sentido de que buscar en nuestras vidas y admirar, contemplar, ser parte de un ambiente, de un paisaje o una creación única de nivel mundial abandona su valor. Nosotros chilenos tenemos soberanía sobre uno de los lugares mas prístinos,

preciosos, especiales en el planeta y sin embargo, somos muy pocos los compatriotas que nos aventuramos a venir y hacer patria en este recóndito lugar. En Parque Torres del Paine se habla menos español que ingles o cualquier otro idioma entre los visitantes y muy pocos saben que esta semana 21 países competirán en la carrera de aventura y expedición mas peligrosa y remota del mundo. Mi nombre es José Ignacio, pero ustedes me pueden llamar Cote, soy el CEO de Patagonia Black Sheep Travel Guide Magazine y rodeado de cientos de kilómetros de horizonte, con

largas e incontables franjas de agua que crean un puzzle en nuestra tierra, mucho verde, glaciares interminables y montañas que nos miran desde sus únicas cumbres pintadas de blanco, me encuentro trabajando para darles la mejor información de los top hot spots que visitar cuando viajen a nuestra bella Patagonia. Hoy participo en Patagonian Expedition Race que como les contaba, reúne selecciones de distintos países como Inglaterra, República Checa, España, Alemania, Estados Unidos, Suiza, Brazil, entre otros muchos, que buscan ganar la octava competencia de 500 kilómetros, que incorpora disciplinas como Kayac, escalada, trekking, mountainbike, en cual nunca un equipo chileno ha logrado terminar e históricamente no mas del 25% de los equipos llegan a meta. Este evento de clase mundial, es un emprendimiento chileno que cubre páginas y páginas en revistas en todo el mundo, que nos promociona y ayuda como País y el fundador, y Gerente General Stjepan Pavicic, compatriota Magallánico, dejo su vida como geólogo para llevarlo a cabo con éxito. Pero incongruente e inconsecuentemente, a lo que nos hace feliz como país el tener activos como estos, me pregunto cuantas personas y empresas son las que colaboran con iniciativas como ellas. Es una vergüenza que pueda solo agradecer a un par de personas como Ismael Mena, Ignacio Morales, Los Kusanovic o empresas como Navimag y El Mercurio, ya que hay muchos otros que podrían aportar con su experiencia y recursos a hacer algo aun mas magnánimo. Somos un País potente, que cuando nos unimos creamos grandes ejemplos de valor como Fundación Teletón y Un Techo para Chile que nos enorgullecen e imitan otros en el extranjero. Por eso, hagamos nuestra Patagonia, hagamos nuestra esta

Expedición y los invito a seguirnos día a día en las tantas historias que les enviare vía satélite desde lugares nunca explorados, donde el hombre es un extraño y La Tierra sigue siendo la madre de lo que nos rodea, la fuerza que da equilibrio y belleza, y espera acogedora nuestra admiración. El trabajo de estos próximos días, se lo quiero dedicar a mi motor de inspiración Theresa, a las muchas personas que les falta uno, para que salgan y encuentren eso que te lleva hacer cosas grandes y a mis padres, por darme ese constante apoyo, y por supuesto a todos ustedes futuros viajeros de Patagonia donde quiera que estén.

LOS GRANDE DE LA EXPED

2.000 Km recorridos e 3.000 Km en movimie 3.000 Km recorridos e 30.000 Km recorridos 100.000 litros transpo

150.000 castores com creando barreras a lo (destruyendo los últi bosques sub antartic

550.000 Km recorrido por prensa

1.500.000 Km recorrid por los competidores sólo para llegar a la partida.

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Bitácora día uno La preparación La vista es envidiable, a pesar del viento que casi no deja manejar en linea recta, el cielo semidespejado nos bendice con muchos claros y arcoiris, el Estrecho de Magallanes a mi derecha, turbado, nos manda un mensaje, nos dice que nos cuidemos, que las cosas no serán fáciles, que si no desafiamos sus fuerzas lo disfrutaremos y nos mezclaremos en la naturaleza enriqueciéndonos con su inmensa energía. Pero, por contraparte, el ambiente esta tenso, a pesar del buen humor, el impecable estado de ánimo, con solo dos horas de sueño de todos y cada uno de los que conforman el equipo organizador coordinador, y la felicidad por la proximidad de solo horas a la partida, la ansiedad se puede saborear debido a presiones de ultimo minuto para un balazo de inicio limpio a la competencia.

toneladas en comida, mas de tres en equipos para los competidores, no puede fallar ningún proveedor de servicios que con meses de anticipación se llevan coordinando. Ni siquiera mencionar el transporte que entre camionetas, helicópteros, barcos y demás forman parte imprescindible dentro de la logística. Y aunque nos encanta hacer deportes outdoors en condiciones extremas, empapados, con el peor clima, necesitamos suerte con el tiempo solo hasta el punto de hacer posible el desarrollo de las distintas disciplinas en su respectivas secciones dentro del trayecto. Son muchas variables que se deben coordinar para hacer de esta carrera un éxito y a todo ello debemos sumarle el desempeño de todos los competidores para lograr terminar la carrera sin accidentes. Entonces si la racha continua a favor se podrá estar en lugar de perseguir el primer puesto, claro, con estricta convicción, una clara estrategia y una limpia e inteligente ejecución.

Se necesitan mover mas de dos

ES NUMEROS DICIÓN

en avion ento maritimo en helicoptero s en auto ortados en equipo

mo plaga os competidores imos cos)

dos s,

Amigos, mi nombre es Jose Ignacio, pero Ustedes me pueden decir Cote y me encuentro participando en esta aventura al fin del mundo. Las habilidades de todos los participantes son muchas, todos reunimos las cualidades y ese poco mas de demencia para encontrarnos en estos lugares perdidos en el tiempo, probando nuestros limites, compitiendo por honor y algunos por un gran trozo grabado de vidrio. Quiero terminar estas lineas con un caluroso saludo a todos aquellos que dan esa milla extra en post de hacer algo mejor en nuestro País y nuestra sociedad, a Theresa y mis padres por su apoyo incondicional y por supuesto a ustedes futuros viajeros de Patagonia, donde quiera que estén.

What is adventure racing? Adventure racing combines adventure sport disciplines, usually including navigation, trekking, mountain biking, paddling, and climbing, in order to cover a variety of outdoor terrain. Generally, teams are comprised of four people and must include both men and women. Expedition class races typically take between three and eleven days. Often there are no dark periods, meaning racers choose if or when to rest. Teams are required to pass through mandatory check points along the way. If there is to be a change of discipline, such as mountain biking to kayaking, teams will change their equipment at these points, taking what is needed for the next leg and carrying it with them. In the WENGER PATAGONIAN EXPEDITION RACE® the route is kept secret, maps and route books containing general, landmarkoriented instructions being supplied in a meeting with teams just the night before the race commences.

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L A . BITÁCORA.

Bitácora día 2 Se dado largada alrededor de las 10am

Eran las 5:40 de la mañana nos preparamos ya para ir al lugar de reunión en Punta Arenas donde todos los competidores serán llevado en dos buses a la partida, dos horas al norte de la ciudad, ahí habrá que subir a sus respectivos kayacs para atravesar el Estrecho de Magallanes. Lo que no sabíamos era que el clima no nos acompañaría ya que con vientos de mas de 45 nudos y olas de 2 metros el Capitán de puerto no dejaría que entremos al mar. Habría que cambiar el punto de partida al otro lado del estrecho. Parte de las instrucciones eran que no podíamos pisar mas arriba de la arena de la playa ya que esta plagado de minas antipersonales, no hay otro ejemplo mas adecuado para enseñarles, amigos, la intensidad de la carrera. Así, con pequeñas piedrecitas que chocaban como proyectiles contra nuestro rostro por el fuerte viento y un ambiente lleno de energía, se dio inicio corriendo contra viento. Hola mis amigos, hoy ha sido un día largo, lleno de problemas y también, gracias a dios, soluciones a cada uno de ellos. Son las 4:00am, no hemos dormido nada, y el frío que penetra la tecnológica ropa es contrarrestado por una noche con tantas estrellas como flores en el desierto después de la lluvia. En la mañana de ayer debido a una falla con el transporte he tenido que regresar algunos kilómetros y continuar mi viaje con parte del staff organizador. Mas de 100 autos y 60 camiones esperaban cruzar desde 1:00pm en un transbordador a la isla grande de tierra del fuego, llegamos a las 7:00pm y debido a un frente de mal tiempo, grandes ventarrones acechaban y hacían imposible que alguna embarcación pudiese zarpar. Tres horas estuvimos, pero nos comunicaron que 5 trabajadores estaban aislados, nos adelantamos en la fila y cuando dieron la aprobación de zarpar un transbordador de prueba sabia que debíamos ir en el, fui a hablar con Jaime el Capitán de Puerto para explicar el tema y aprobó subir nuestros autos en esa oportunidad, aseguré la subida de todos y al otro lado continuamos en una caravana de 14 autos hasta el check point 3. Era casi la una de la mañana y me informaban que todos los competidores seguían en carrera, sin dormir, ya habían tomado sus bicicletas y dirigían impecables al check point 3 al igual que nosotros.Vimos varios equipos y los que lideraban eran los suizos, pero fue

muy inspirador ver al equipo chileno Almas Patagónicas como pedaleaban con todas sus fuerzas después de casi 20 horas de competición, haciéndole honra a nuestros antepasados guerreros indígenas transformándose en almas guerreras por vencer cualquier vicisitud. Luego de muchas otras noticias como quedarnos sin petróleo en la mitad de la nada por casi 3 horas con un frío inimaginable y sin el equipo necesario cerca, seguimos en carrera y con el cielo comenzando a pintarse de colores, esperamos ver que nos depara la aventura de hoy. Un gran abrazo a todos ustedes futuros viajeros de Patagonia, donde quiera que estén.

Bitácora día 3 El Liderazgo

como eso a campo abierto y con un viento impensable.

Nos encontramos abandonando el check point 3 en dirección al 5 donde los competidores cambian de disciplina, de trekking pasan a mountain bike. El viento sopla fuerte la sensación térmica es bajísima, pero sorprendentemente es casi la 1 y no ha caído una gota de agua en todo el trail.

Me sorprendí al saber que habían dos equipos chilenos, el primero del que les conté anteriormente Almas Patagónicas y un equipo formado por militares especializados. Lamentablemente ambos llegan demasiado tarde a todos los check points, y a la larga los podrían llegar a sacar de la carrera. No puede durar un mes, así que rezaremos por una mejora en la ejecución y toma de decisiones interna.

Se pensaba que estaba claro, por lo menos para los próximos check points quienes liberaran la carrera, los suizos ganaban por mucho, los ingleses, ganadores de la competencia el año pasado iban segundos, terceros los estadounidenses, muy atrás estaban los españoles y os chilenos iban de los últimos junto a los japoneses. Pero Al ir avanzando me encontré con un escenario totalmente distinto. El equipo de USA e Inglaterra lideraban, luego estaban los españoles que se movían rápido, sin perder tiempo en nada, y los suizos habían parado a dormir. Los tres primeros equipos se llevaban muy poca diferencia, lo que es muy raro en esta competencia, con decirles que cuando se hacia el cambio de disciplina, los tres armaban las bicicletas a la vez. fue ahí cuando los españoles pasaron al segundo lugar, pero solo por unos minutos ya que al armar la bicicleta se perdió un eslabón de la cadena de uno de ellos y malgastaron demasiado tiempo tratando de encontrarlo, imaginen buscar algo

Es en esto momentos en que se pueden identificar ciertos padrones de conducta que llevan a clasificar a las personas respecto a la ejecución de su trabajo en ciertos grupos, por ejemplo, si lo polarizamos, los equipos que van atrás o no tenían el entrenamiento, disciplina y/o conocimiento o tienen la capacidad y entrenamiento para desarrollar la carrera, pero quieren ir firmes velando por estabilidad, seguridad extrema, siendo muy precavidos.Y los que van adelante también pueden velar por su seguridad pero al momento de tomar una decisión, su factor determinante es liderar, avanzar a toda costa con sacrificio extremo, arriesgando integridad emocional y física todo por ir mas allá de lo que el común de la gente podría hacer, todo por alcanzar el premio del primer lugar.

No me mal interpreten, pero creo, siendo muy simplista, unos sencillamente están acostumbrados a ser líderes y otros a ser la media y los elementos necesarios para formar parte de cualquiera de ellos claramente están dados en los primeros años de educación de cada uno de nosotros. Ahora se me ocurre una pregunta ¿cuantos jóvenes en nuestro País tienen la oportunidad de ser líderes? ¿cuantos de ellos tienen las herramientas o pueden optar por una formación que los lleve a ello? ¿se les da la oportunidad siquiera de mostrar esas aptitudes en un marco relevante para la sociedad? en definitiva ¿sabemos que tipo de personas estamos formando? o siquiera ¿somos conscientes de que tipo de personas queremos formar? Bueno, bajo mi perspectiva creo que perdemos muchos líderes debido a un contante conformismo implícito en nuestra sociedad, gente que por distintos resentimientos y miedos es atajada, atorada, pero que con una mentalidad distinta podrían llegar hacer grandes cambios en nuestro País. No olvidemos como nuestro santo Alberto hurtado, gran líder, fue continuamente atacado, criticado y saboteado hasta por gente de la misma iglesia, por lo que representaban sus ideales y lo que quería lograr. No nos transformemos en verdugos de una mejor y ecuánime nación por miedo al cambio. movamos energías... demos oportunidades, arriesguémonos... crezcamos.

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February.10

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Bitácora día 4 A medio camino Está lloviendo con nieve, no hay viento, tampoco hace frío. La verdad es que Pachamama nos ha tratado muy bien, acogiéndonos. Son las 12:30am y ha sido un día muy largo y cansador, me duele cada uno de los músculos, pero como siempre en situaciones como estas ya se ha hecho costumbre y pasa desapercibido. Temprano comenzamos un trekking por terrenos vírgenes lleno de avalanchas de kilómetros de largo hacia una gran cascada que esta

frente a nuestro campamento. De ida, 5 horas de caminata rápida en subida, un poco de escalada y una vez arriba, trote, eso solo hasta el punto donde se encuentran los periodistas, ya que continué para llegar a la cumbre de un cerro de unos 1000 metros de altura, el mas alto del sector, para tener una mejor perspectiva del trail a seguir. El equipo que formamos fue espectacular; Yoseki (Japón), TC (USA), Dennis (USA) y yo. hicimos click de inmediato, todos muy simpáticos, entretenidos, entusiastas y a medida que conversábamos mas nos encontrábamos con una visión de la vida muy similar a pesar de las grandes diferencias culturales. Mientras escalaba por un faldeo de hielo y nieve cerca de la cumbre me encontré con algo espectacular, unos

huanacos que se me aproximaban tratando de estudiarme y ahuyentarme, estos nunca habían visto un humano por lo que a diferencia de las “manadas” que viven cerca de caminos o pueblos estos no nos temen en lo absoluto. Entonces haciendo bruscos y grandes movimientos con los brazos y saltando intenté ahuyentarlos. Es muy difícil describir lo que significa encontrarse con naturaleza en ese estado, sin ninguna intervención humana, sin ninguna intervención de nuestra sociedad que propende generalmente a lo corrupto, llevando todo lo que encuentra a su paso. Se que suena demasiado Greenpeace, ambientalista o muy verde, hasta algunos amigos podrían decirme que estoy ya en el extremo, aunque cuando uno se encuentra en el extremo piensa extremo. Cuando estás en una carrera extrema, donde en muchas ocasiones han habido equipos completos besando la muerte en la mejilla, y gracias a la perfecta ejecución en los sistemas de seguridad de los organizadores, la han evadido. Cuando estas en el extremo del mundo, rodeado de una extrema paz y armonía natural, tiendes a pensar en lo extremo que corrompemos lo que nos rodea, hasta como nuestro sistema corrompe a las personas, inclusive a las mas buenas.

En fin, por lo mismo, instancias como esta competencia, son en realidad mucho mas que una simple carrera, donde el reporte de ella deja fuera parámetros de otros eventos deportivos y quien va segundo, ultimo o primero no es lo mas importante, ya que es un evento que te conecta con nuestra esencia, con nuestros ancestros, con el lugar que nos engendro y desarrollo y te hace pensar a lo menos ¿somos lo suficientemente agradecidos?

B U

¡Q p q la p e e e 3

ll S c p t c a a

C c n s q g s s in

E in m e o e e p a d E e c d

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71°0'0"W

70°0'0"W

69°0'0"W

Bitácora día 5 Un día corrido

C h i l e

Punta Arenas

3 26 km

Seno Magdalena

Fu e go Área Parqu d e Co e Ka nse run rv a kin ción ka Se

no A

lm iran

t az

Antártica

128 km

100°0'0"W

Pampa Guanacos

50 km

oke

al Ma

B ro s

16 km

14 km

10 18 km

C o r d i l l e r a

D a r w

16 km

18 km

i n

15 km

C a n a l

Is la

17 km

g l e e a

SELK`NAM

TIERRA DEL FUEGO

ESTANCIA BLANCA ADRIANA CAÑADON GRANDE NOMADAS DEL PLEISTOCENO

BLOQUE ERRÁTICO

KARUKINKA (WCS)

LODGE LAGO DESEADO

VALLE PROFUNDO

RÍO AZOPARDO

El Turbal

CORDILLERA DARWIN

BAHÍA YENDEGAIA

BAHÍA WULAIA

MONTE KING SCOTT

CANAL BEAGLE

449

26 km

ns o

y nb

481

536 562

B e a g l e

46 km

Se n o Po

464

527

PUERTO WILLIAMS

383

431

17 9 km

317

415

RÍO LAPATAIA

os te

189

397

35 km

H Isl a

160

367

GLACIAR STOPPANI

n Lon do

24 134

172

n a l C a

600 3850km km

Isla Navarino

rr Mu ay

OUTDOOR SERVICES

Kayak

Km 100

Mte Bike

1:900 000

69°0'0"W

en o

NÓMADAS

ev Nu

Trek

Finish

Puerto Williams

70°0'0"W

ño

Padre, Madre, Hermano, Philip, Cris, amigos, no los he podido contactar pero les quiero enviar un abrazo gigantesco y siempre agradecer por estar ahí, ayudándome.

71°0'0"W

Bueno, les cuento también, que unos de los compañeros de trekking tuvo una crisis de pánico al momento que nos enfrentamos a un gran precipicio y lo asistimos en todo lo posible y lo he llevado cargando casi un kilometro cuesta arriba hasta que fue capaz de nuevo de poder pararse relativamente bien. Luego de eso, en el camino de regreso ayudamos a un camarógrafo de alrededor de 50 años, ya que no fue capaz de regresar por el trail. Todo lo hice con un placer que no se lo imaginan, el poder ayudar a otro es algo que creo define la realidad de mi vocación y ayudarlo en circunstancias como esas, no tiene nombre.

70°0'0"S

Discipline

Finish

40°0'0"W

n Ca

los patrocinadores, solo faltan las personas preparadas y con ese tornillo un poco suelto para querer entrar. Tengo algunos nombres pensados, pero recibo... en realidad ¡pido! sugerencias.

114 km

60°0'0"W

Nombre

hía

n Ca

80°0'0"W

Punto de Control

Fjordo Keats

al e na

Cameron

54°0'0"S

Punta Arenas

17 km

Bahia Inutil

ón

Isla Dawson

50°0'0"S

Del

12 km

60°0'0"S

54°0'0"S

Bo qu

57 km

Cruce Onaisin

55°0'0"S

d e

Porvenir

Pas o

Buenos Aires

Santiago

53°0'0"S

110 km

40°0'0"S

te G

ra n de

M ag a ll a n e s

53°0'0"S

Cerro Sombrero

Tierra

en B a hi a G

Es tr e c h o

A todo esto les adelanto, el próximo año entraré a la competencia con el primer equipo chileno que finalice y se lleve el primer puesto. Los equipos deben ser mixtos por reglamento, por lo que estoy en búsqueda de compañeros y compañeras. Ya tengo

Bah ia S an Fe lip

30°0'0"S

Argentin

los momentos de flaqueza saquen la garra característica de nuestro País.

e si

Estoy muy cansado, la conexión a nternet satelital está funcionando y es muy raro por lo que debo apurarme en traspasar las experiencias de hoy o perderé la oportunidad de enviarles esta carta. Buenas noticias, los dos equipos chilenos están ¡aún en carrera! pero el equipo de los militares estuvo a punto de ser descalificado por sus demoras en llegar a los check points. Esperemos que este sea el primer año en que los chilenos terminemos la carrera, por lo que enviemos la mejor de las energías y fuerzas, para que en

Manantiales

1 16 km

W h it

Con el agua hasta la cintura y la corriente a nuestro favor el río nos empujaba a seguir conociendo su faldeo, vestido de altos arboles que tupidos forman distintos grupos de pequeños bosques, por supuesto aceptamos la invitación y se transformo en una experiencia nolvidable.

8 km

l Ca n a

legamos al mar, al extremo sur del Seno Almirantazgo. Nos encontramos con el equipo canadiense que estaba perdido y por dos horas exploramos toda el área subiendo y bajando consecutivamente las montañas para avistar el check point que nos llevaría al otro lado del Rio Azopardo.

Punta Dungenes

Start

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Que buen día! a esta hora casi no puedo mover las piernas, lo único que puedo pensar es en dormir, son as 2:00 de la mañana y mañana partimos a Puerto Williams, hemos estado todo el día desde la amanecida en pie entremedio de las montañas en un trekking espectacular mas de 34 kilómetros ida y vuelta en el cual

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Posesió n Bay

68°0'0"W u Bahía Nassa

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Bitácora día 7 La meta

carrera agradecer el trabajo hecho. Incluso me acerco a uno de ellos a decir que seria muy honorable si trabajasen en conjunto y llegasen juntos a la meta, a lo que respondió que no le interesaba, a penas llegaran a un camino demarcado o pudiesen ver la meta correrían a ella. Es una competencia y supongo que está bien, pero hay cosas que en mi parecer valen mas que unos minutos mas o menos. Fue emocionante, la noche cayó, avanzábamos sin parar, a pesar de caer en fosos de barro hasta la cintura que nos succionaban, los que sorteamos ayudándonos unos a otros, para llegar al punto de avistar la meta. La adrenalina, el saber que quedaba tan poco para terminar nos daba el ultimo impulso para trotar al final.

El equipo de Inglaterra. Los ganadores. He seguido al equipo español todo el día, desde muy temprano en la mañana al salir en Kayac. Uno de ellos tuvo un problema, el timón estaba roto y han tenido que esperar en la partida. La instrucción era que todos saldrían juntos de la bahía para enfrentar esa difícil tarea en grupo y una vez fuera darían la partida. Nadie los esperó y se quedaron muy atrás. Tampoco nadie entendía porque se habían retrasado, hasta el punto que se rumoreaba quedarían descalificados por estar separados mas de 200 metros integrantes del mismo equipo. Atravesamos el canal, el día comenzó muy feo, pero de a poco el sol intentaba ayudarnos con un par de rayos en el camino. Un frío, un viento y el agua tan helada que a pesar de los tecnológicos trajes, la hipotermia merodeaba los alrededores. Los españoles fueron remolcados hasta el punto de ser compensados, pero al tratar de soltar la cuerda de remolque, la lancha hace un giro y los vuelca en el agua. Que impotencia sintieron, rabia y hasta lágrimas se veían por el daño que les hicieron. Las olas eran grandes, lo que dificultaba mucho poder arreglárselas por su cuenta, por ello fueron penalizados con 6 horas. Ese terrible suceso provocaba un giro inesperado, ya que su tiempo llego al mismo nivel de los otros equipos y debían correr por las montañas para lograr nuevamente su segundo lugar. La mujer integrante Uxue llevaba herida varios días en la rodilla por caer en una roca

y sus compañeros tuvieron que suturarla, por lo que estaba compitiendo con puntos. Corría igual que el resto. A estas alturas todos tenemos heridas y lesiones pero nunca a pesar de su dolor dejo de ir a la velocidad de sus compañeros, a ratos lloraba y lagrimas de dolor recorrían su cara y se transformo en un símbolo de logro, de sacrificio, un modelo de cuando se quiere lograr algo no hay nada en ti que te lo impida. Luego de varias horas llegamos de Yendegaia a Wulaia en una transferencia rápida, se dejan los kayacs y se continua en trekking a través de las montañas hacia el ultimo check point, la meta.Ya habían llegado los ingleses el día anterior y ningún otro equipo podía hacerlo, ya que la salida de kayac es solo a primera hora en la mañana, por motivos de seguridad. Partimos a paso rápido montaña arriba, nos pisaban los talones los alemanes y los suizos iban 15 minutos adelante, el equipo germano cambia su ruta y nos quedamos solos rumbo a un denso bosque. La desesperación e impotencia de Uxue no tarda mucho en brotar y sus compañeros con casi 2 años en alianza, la acogen, comprenden y motivan para salir de ese mal estado psicológico, ¡muy bien preparados! no tan solo físicamente, sino técnica, mentalmente y como grupo. El navegador Urzti, su trabajo indescriptible,

con un GPS integrado en su cabeza nos dirige al resto de su equipo, a Mike Clousher y a mi entre lagunas, represas de castores y heladas cumbres nevadas, durante casi 30 Kms. En el camino vemos a los Estadounidenses, unos minutos después nos ven ellos y se dirigen donde estamos, la carrera se hace aun mas interesante, comenzamos a correr por la delantera, pero ahí es cuando debemos saber cuales son los activos y pasivos del grupo. Podíamos correr pero no le ganaríamos a un equipo que solo tenia lesiones leves, nuestra gran característica a favor era la asertiva navegación de Urtzi y el liderazgo y paso de Jon Ander por lo que paramos, tomamos el mapa y comenzamos a cambiar el rumbo poco a poco, nosotros a paso firme y los americanos corriendo llegábamos una y otra vez al mismo punto, luego comenzamos a dejarlos atrás cada vez mas lejos, hasta que notaron que debían seguirnos, por lo que corrieron con muchas fuerzas hasta alcanzarnos por ultima vez. Andaban con Mike, un Profesional con varios oros olímpicos en distintas disciplinas y de todas formas no pudieron mejorar las directrices de nuestro navegador. No sacaron nunca mas su mapa, cuando nosotros parábamos, ellos justo también tenían que parar y con esa falta de humildad latente en la mayoría de los americanos no se quisieron mezclar, crear algo de camaradería o siquiera al final de la

Que experiencia, podría extenderme páginas en explicarles lo que sentíamos en ese momento, un orgullo inimaginable, habíamos vencido nuestras propias limitaciones y miedos. Apuntamos alto y logramos con creces nuestros objetivos. Con esto afirmamos nuestra convicción que participar en un evento como este, donde la mayoría ve solo un primer síntoma de demencia, nosotros vemos y sabemos que te da la capacidad de alcanzar lo que desees, ya que el elemento determinante no esta en los músculos, sino en la cabeza. Es la capacidad mental la que alimenta nuestro cuerpo y espíritu en circunstancias extremas, es esa fuerza interior la que nos llevo a terminar la carrera, es tener convicción en ti mismo, en tus fortalezas por sobre tus debilidades, en tu sabiduría. Es entender cuanto amor entregas día a día a eso que haces.Y con esa conciencia te haces acreedor de un título que no te lo dará ningún centro de estudio, que no lo harás tuyo a través de ni un libro o podcast, harás tuyo el trabajo en equipo, la perseverancia, la inspiración, la constancia, el compañerismo, el sacrificio, la confianza y todas esas características que definen a un líder, que definen a un ganador y no uno cualquiera, al ganador en la vida. Me despido con un abrazo gigante a todos ustedes recordándoles que pueden lograr grandes metas, despierten esa búsqueda interna por alcanzar cosas mas grandes que nosotros y dejen de lado esas cosas que nos destruyen como hombres, esas cosas tan fáciles de enamorarse, esas cosas mundanas que muchas veces buscamos como un fin equivocadamente. Continuo mi trabajo y los espero aquí en Patagonia, para tu próxima aventura.

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Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

questions & answers

Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those

How much do taxis cost? All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas? Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map. What does Punta Arenas mean? Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C. Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. Where is the bus station? Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent. Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time…

Where can I change money? There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano. Can I drink the tap water? Yes, tap water is absolutely safe. How far is Torres del Paine from here? 4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance. How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas? Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria. How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia? 250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura. What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center? To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese

interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.

discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church. Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map? Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almostoff-the-map trekking, fishing, and more. What are my penguin options? 1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway. 2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day. What type of day tours are there? You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended). Do the street dogs bite? Yes, gringos only.

How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

How many people live here? About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population. How much is an airport transfer? A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles, which take a bit longer because they have more people to pick up, but they’re more economical. Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown? Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.

Buses Gomez

How far is the airport out of town?

Regular Buses to & from Torres del Paine Every day

Is there any public transportation? Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive.

About 20km or 30 minutes.

Prat 234, Puerto Natales Ph: (56.61) 414700

Bories Nº 655

Lake District & Patagonia

Punta Arenas 56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl

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Calafate, Argentina

POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)

Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets

and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.

questions & answers blocked by massive icebergs. How do I get to/from the Calafate airport?

El Calafate How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities. What can I do in Calafate? Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit five other glaciers in the area (Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim). What about Upsala? Can I visit that glacier? You can’t visit Upsala right now.The waterway is

By the airport shuttle, which costs around $26 ARS per person. By taxi it’s about $70 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate? The information center is in the bus station. Can I drink the tap water? In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.

Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed.This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. When are the stores open, anyway? In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m. What’s the weather like in these parts? It’s Patagonia.The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer. Who was Perito Moreno? Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish. Are there ice hikes on the glacier? There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice.To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip. Bring your own lunch for the excursions.The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time! Is it safe at night? Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. Where can I camp in El Calafate?

Mandala Andino

Live your life to the fullest extent possible with bodywork based on gentle touch.

Phone: 56.61.414143 mandalaandino@yahoo.com Eberhard 161,

Puerto Natales, Chile

There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities.The best one is El Ovejero. Are there any cheap eating options? Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price. What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).

How many people live in El Chaltén? 200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985. What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any banks, or places to change money. They are installing an ATM, but it still doesn’t have cash, so best to bring your pesos with you. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free.Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leaveno-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén.They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles. What if I don’t have lodging reservations? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto. Where can I camp in El Chaltén?

By bus. It takes about 3.5 hours.

In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs about ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely.There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers.

Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?

Will my cell phone work in Chaltén?

Not really.The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m.Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén.

Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?

El Chaltén How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate?

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A Field Guide to Getting Lost in El Chaltén By Dawn Bell

t’s the typical Gringo Trail. Sometime before or after he ‘W’ in Torres del Paine, travelers head for Calafate to check out Perito Moreno Glacier, buy souvenir matés, and catch the bus to El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital. Many people end up day hiking for a couple of days, staying in hostels and enjoying big dinners in town. But it is possible to link a few of the hot spots and get yourself a multiday backpacking journey. Here’s an example of a four dayer--from Río Eléctrico to Lago Torre--which can easily be lengthened. Getting Ready. You’ll probably spend your first day getting to Chaltén (about 3.5 hours from Calafate), walking around the town’s recently paved and soon-to-be paved roads, doing the final shop for your trek. Chaltén is a growing town, but it still lacks reliable ATMs, money exchangers and places that accept credit cards. This, of course, is part of its charm.Though, it’s not so charming if you find yourself penniless with pockets outturned, washing dishes to pay for your dinner or lodging. The one cash machine in Chaltén is generally cashless, and if you do find a money exhange, don’t expect them to change Chilean pesos. In stocking up for a 4-5 night trip, consider buying your grub in Calafate. The selection is larger and you might find it’s a tiny bit cheaper. If you’re already in Chaltén and ready to do your shop, just skip La Anonima. It hardly has anything even though it appears to be the biggest market on the main drag. The other stores in town have a good selection of fresh produce and camping food (instant rice packages, cereal bars, oatmeal and just about any mini-item you’d want: packets of jam, butter, lemon juice, spices, you name it), though buying your goods in Chaltén can be a bit pricey. Make sure you carry your own bag or backpack for your shop, as Chaltén, like Calafate, has banned plastic bags. (Gotta

love this place!) If you’re struggling, they’ll snicker and give you a cardboard box. On your first night in Chaltén, you can stay in one of many hostels or at one of the pay-for campsites in town. These have bathrooms and hot water for showers. Camping Madsen, at the foot of the Fitz Roy trail is closed indefinitely and has been blacked out on the free maps they give you when you enter town. If you want to camp for free, you’ll have to stay at Confluencia on the opposite side of town and a bit further away from the main trailheads. Day 1. To Piedra del Fraile. Walk toward the end of town, and instead of heading for the Fitz Roy Trail, veer right, following the signs to El Pilar Hotel. From here you have two options: Hire a transfer to Río Eléctrico, which you can arrange at the last kiosk in town (right across from the fork in the road heading to El Pilar), or hitch a ride. A lot of the vehicles that pass will be full rental cars or buses, so be patient and keep walking. Once you reach Río Electrico (a kilometer or two past El Pilar Hotel), you’ll take the Río Eléctrico trail for about two hours to reach camping Piedra del Fraile. This is private property, so be prepared to pay $25 pesos to camp. Fraile is the only camping that you’ll pay for, and they have hot showers, sheltered cooking areas, and homecooked meals or beer for sale. From Fraile, you have a couple of day hike opportunities: Paso del Cuadrado and Lago Eléctrico Glacier. Both are about three hours out. Ask the person who receives you at Piedra Fraile how to find the route to Paso del Cuadrado.They’ll likely say, “muy muy epinado,” meaning it’s steep as all hell, and you’ll have to scramble up the scree on all fours. It’s a one step forward, half a step back sort of trail, pretty much the entire way. But the views on a clear day are enough to knock the wind out of you, if the climb

doesn’t. You’ll see Fitz Roy’s other face and the glacier from afar. Day 2. Piedra del Fraile to Poincenot. Today you have choices. If you want to take it easy and spend another day at this campsite (for another $25), plan on doing the other day hike to Lago Eléctrico, a bleak glacial lake. On the way to the glacier, you’ll hug the sheer slippery rocks, which drop into the lake itself, for a couple hours. It is possible to start early in the morning, hike to Lago Eléctrico, return and eat a late breakfast or early lunch, pack up your gear and set off for Poincenot all in the same day. To reach Camping Poincenot, you’ll backtrack for about an hour on the Río Eléctrico route, where you’ll meet the juncture in the main trail. At this point, you can take an old abandoned trail, which is more direct, but rockier, unkempt and unmarked. It’s a bit tricky to find, so don’t worry if you miss it. You can head all the way back to El Pilar and take the main, well-marked trail from there. Once you reach Poincenot, set up camp, eat and relax. You are well poised for a sunrise show at Fitz Roy. If you still have daylight and energy, head over to Piedras Blancas. The sign says it’ll take you about 30 minutes from camp, but allow for more time and plan on journeying all the way to Lago Piedras Blancas to enjoy close-up views of the glacier there. It’s a fun jaunt, hopping from boulder to smooth boulder with the clear glacial water reflecting your leaps from below. (Note: If you don’t do this on day 2, you can enjoy this part of the trip on day 3 and maybe even spend an extra night in Poincenot after catching the crazy sunrise show on the Fitz Roy needles.) Day 3. Dawn at Laguna de los Tres. Brace yourself for a stunning light show on the face of Cerro Fitz Roy and its range. Head out around 6 a.m. (check sunrise times in town before you go so you know when to leave) with a headlamp. Hoof it about an hour to the viewpoint. It’s straight uphill and you’ll be sweating on the way up, so don’t overdress when you leave your tent at dawn. Bring plenty to keep you warm once you’ve stopped and are waiting for the sunshine to light up the granite faces at top. Bring your hat, gloves, extra jackets, maybe even your sleeping bag, and most definitely a thermos full of your favorite hot drink (or a stove to boil water). Once you reach Fitz Roy’s main viewpoint, the hill slopes down and around to

another hillock, with views of Laguna Sucia from above. Don’t miss out on this part of the trek. Laguna Sucia is one of the most mindblowing blues you’ll ever see, guaranteed. It’s also a good way to warm you up again while waiting for the sun’s rays to reach Fitz Roy. After the sunrise, head back to camp, gather up your gear and hike the Madre e Hija Trail to Camping de Agostini, where you’ll sleep alongside rushing Río Fitz Roy. Alternatively, plan to take it easy and stay another night at Poincenot. It’s free after all, so if you don’t have time constraints, just kick back and enjoy.You can still do a couple of mini-treks from Poincenot.Walk to Piedras Blancas if you haven’t already. Or, on your way back from a stupendous sunrise, follow Río Blanco to your right (opposite direction from Piedras Blancas). This is not really a trail, but once you reach the river and before you cross the footbridge, trace the river’s edge until you reach the base of Laguna Sucia. From here, you’ll glimpse Sucia’s glacier from below and witness the explosions of icemelt cascade into the lake. The excursion will add about two hours to your morning. If you’re pressed for time, head to De Agostini today. Once you arrive to De Agostini and set up camp, venture out to visit Lago Torre. You’ll see Cerro Torre from the trail on the way to De Agostini, but the view from the lake is more complete, with glacier and all. If you follow the sloped ridge on the right of the lake, you’ll see Glacier Torre up close, from above. It’s a lovely wind tunnel of a walk that takes about two hours there and back. Day 4. Back to Chaltén. From Agostini, enjoy a mostly flat and downhill stroll back to Chaltén, where you can shower at a hostel, catch your bus back to Calafate and your next adventure, or recoup for another day or two out on the trail. Lago Toro or Lago del Desierto are both good options with camping to extend your trip a bit. If you’re not ready to commit to more nights camping, settle for another long full day (about 8 hours) hike to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, with panoramic views of the entire valley, Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Glacier Viedma. Environmental notes. Fires are not allowed in the Park, so be sure you bring a stove and sufficient gas. Water is potable everywhere; it’s up to you to keep it that way. Don’t ever wash anything directly in any water sources.Pack it in, pack it out! Be sure to take all trash out with you. Do not throw your garbage into the latrines!

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Puerto Varas, Chile POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

questions & answers

How do I get to Puerto Varas? If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. Where can I stay without breaking the bank? There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people. How should I dress for the climate? In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather. Will I have any problems with the water or food? In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days. What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake? That’s Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all,

Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the

iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.

Tronador (3,491m). How is the fishing in this area? Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout. What’s the nightlife like? There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season. Are there any good day hikes in the area? Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few. What else is there to do? There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla. What kind of wildlife can I see in the park? There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all. How can I get around without a car? In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.

El primer Pub Restaurante carbono neutral El impacto del cambio climático, veranos extremos, derretimiento masivo de los glaciares, el aumento del nivel del mar, etc. es ya una amenaza perceptible en la vida cotidiana de todas las personas alrededor del planeta, así como en el acceso al agua, la producción de alimentos, la salud y el uso de la tierra, entre otros. “La evidencia científica es hoy en día abrumadora: El cambio climático es una amenaza global, y se requiere una respuesta urgente. En Puerto Varas nos sentimos orgullosos de nuestra forma de vida, de nuestro potencial de crear, de innovar, de nuestra conciencia ecológica y de nuestra preocupación por el medio ambiente. Son varias las organizaciones y muchas las personas que trabajan o aportan con el fin de proteger nuestro amado planeta tierra de nosotros mismos, pero aún falta. Somos nosotros los que debemos responsabilizarnos por nuestro entorno y una muy buena forma es tomando parte de la acción colectiva “PIENSA GLOBAL,

ACTÚA LOCAL”. Cada grano de arena cuenta y dentro de nuestras acciones personales por aminorar el deterioro del planeta consideramos que la medida más efectiva y que logra indudablemente contrarrestar parte del daño realizado es el levantamiento de la huella de carbono, es decir la medición del impacto de nuestras actividades comerciales e industriales de emisiones de gases de efecto invernadero, medidos en toneladas de dióxido de carbono equivalente para luego apoyar proyectos certificados que compensen nuestras emisiones, es decir que remuevan tanto dióxido de carbono como el que generamos. Dominga Patagonia, en el año que tiene de vida, se ha caracterizado por marcar la pauta en innovación, vanguardia, en tener cocina de verdad, en ser más que un restaurante al participar y generar actividades culturales, gastronómicas, deportivas, etc. y en darle vida a la noche de Puerto Varas creando un espacio para la reunión y compartir. Siguiendo la misma línea hemos decidido además ser pioneros en devolverle la mano al medio ambiente. En estos momentos, gracias a GEQ sabemos que entre Agosto del 2008 y Agosto del 2009 emitimos un total de 10 ton de CO2 y estamos buscando un proyecto para compensar nuestras emisiones para lograr la neutralidad climática.

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Santiago, Chile POPULATION: 5.428.490 FOUNDED: February 12, 1541 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hick to Cerro Provincia JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

For most visitors, sprawling Santiago de Chile, its mediterranean hillsides, and the snow-covered Andean crest are their first impressions of the country. Santiago may luck Buenos Aires’s international profile, but its finest attractions can match or surpass those of Argentina’s capital. And few world capitals can match the skiing, hiking, climbing and white-water rafting and kayaking that are barely an hour beyond the city limits. Since the return to constitutional government and subsequent economic expansion, the city has improved greatly. Tasteful contemporary apartments have replaced unsalvageable structures in a downtown construction boom. Barrio Bellavista has enjoyed a gastronomic and nightlife boom, and

international commerce flourishes in Las Condes at El Golf. More than a third of all chileans, live in Gran Santiago. The locus of economic and political power, ha capital has grown at the expense of the regions, but unevenly so-some communes (districts), have become prosperous, others remain desperately poor. You have tons of outdoor’s things to do here, like trekking Cerro Provincia staying a night over the city, rock climbing at Cajon del Maipo and enjoying a really nice tour to one of the great local vinyards for ONLY a “little” sip of wine.

questions & answers Do I want to stay at Santiago for more than a day? Theres much more things to do than what most of guide books tell you.They aren’t bad, but its not a little town, so the must over there o a few steps forward than visiting just the cathedral, the main square and Cerro Santa Lucia. What can I do in Santiago? Go for a trek or a hick, its a valley so there are more than 2 trails to discover. I love the area of Cerro Provincia, you can see everything just getting half the way.You can also go rafting, climbing to Cajon del Maipo, and if

you don’t have much time and you’re dying to do it, there are a few amazing walls near down town. Can I visit a glacier? You are not in Patagonia any more, but actually an hour away you can trek and get to an amazing glacier. How do I get to/from the Santiago airport? You can catch a taxi for $10.000 pesos.Yo can do it also by the airport shuttle, which its cheaper if you are traveling alone, if not just take a taxi.

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Where is the information center in Santiago? Go to Providencia near Manuel Montt Metro Station. Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. So bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. What’s the weather like in these parts? Now you will be dying, sweating almost your blood out. At least if you’re getting use to

Patagonia’s weather. Is it safe at night? In most places you will be, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. What are the eating options? You have a lot to discover, but go to Bellavista, walk a bit and find a nice restaurant there. You can alsso find there nice places to chill and party after a great day of hicks, there we can recommend you Bar Constitución at calle Constitución, in the middle of Bellavista. Is it dangerous to walk at nigth alone? Yes. if you are counting travel checks siting on the sidewalk in downtown.

There is a new must on your list!

Finaly!!!

After almost 4 years of brewing beer in Puerto Natales Baguales Brewery+Restaurant will make you experience the taste of Patagonia, with 100% natural Ale and with a lively menu that complements the strong characteristics of the beer. Its so good that if you try it

before living to your adventure there will be nothing else on your mind, but tasting it again. Join us at Bories 430, in front of the main square. Open all day.

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Mountain Lodges in

TORRES DEL PAINE REFUGIO TORRES | REFUGIO CHILENO | REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS

Reservations for cabins, lodges, camping & more in the circuit of Torres del Paine Telephone: (56 61) 614 185 / 614184 reservas@fantasticosur.com