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Black Sheep • Issue 3 7 • Season 5

March 2010

Black

Special Edition After Earthquake

Sheep

Patagonia’s Monthly Travel Guide Magazine ®

Trail Tips From the Pros’

Wind jumping

F

e ar ife nl si ng hi tt es eb th

We bring you the new sport of Patagonia

R

E

Recycle this paper! Pass it on.

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ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS LOVE ADVENTURE


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After Earthquake Edition w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

Editors Letter

About Black Sheep

This has been a great season, lots of places, lots of people, lots of good people, pretty girls, girls who have tech me some, new friends, new family… All of this and more had run into my path this last months. And not only that, when i thought every month I needed to go home I didn’t realize that this part of Patagonia was becoming a new spot to call home, a spot with love ones that understand and support me in the way.

We are a grass roots travel guide magazine, independently and locally owned, covering all things Patagonia. We are Chile’s most widely read English-language Mag. We publish eight issues per year coinciding with Patagonia’s high season. Our web site community, with up-to-theminute info gives travelers like you a space to share experiences. We are ex pats and locals, we are travelers and we’ve put down roots in Patagonia. Living at the extreme tip of South America is hard. Traveling here isn’t any easier. We created Black Sheep to share information with fellow travelers and help you plan the next adventure to the bottom of the world. We believe in counting experience by blisters, not by years. We sleep in tents and camp in bad weather. We believe in river crossings and in getting dirty. We climb hills for sunrises, not just sunsets. We paint with bold strokes. We Recycle. We pick up trash that isn’t ours. We believe in being part of the solution, not the problem. We believe we can change the world. We believe in the road less traveled.

My name is José Ignacio and you can call me Cote, Im the CEO and Editor of Patagonia’s Black Sheep Travel Guide Magazine, and now in an airplane with an overview of the Torres del Paine National Park and hounders of miles of Patagonia, because of a beautiful day, Im working to give you the best hot spots to visit while you travel trough this amazing, mostly untouched land. The thing is, while we travel we meet some estrange and weird people, that had freak us out, but we also meet amazing, fun, unique ones who really marks us in different ways. And If we are lucky, we join our paths together for some time, opening ourself out to new unexpected experiences, opening our hearts, letting in what surrounds us in those specific moments, capturing and holding them for many years to come In my experience, because of that opening I’de had a couple of turbulent moments, but for sure it all worth the pain, with just having those perfect times among my life. So I invite you guys to feel, to cry, to discover, to surprise, to lough, to fall in love and be heart

José Ignacio Blavi Aros, Publisher break, cause’ thats life, and now that you are experiencing your travel adventure, or you’re planning it across Patagonia, do something you would probably not do in your home town, take the initiative to approach to that person you think interesting, ask some locals about what to do. Don’t do always what your bible travel guide seas you, take the road less traveled and have fun! I have to tell you guys something else, I been working a lot to put together a Foundation to canalize help to people affected in our recent catastrophe. The fifth most strong earthquake in our history happened some days ago, so if you are able to help with whatever you can, take a look at our Web www.fundacionovejasnegras. com to check us out. There are lots of people that really need help, so help us help them. I want to close this season’s hard work, thanking my unconditional friends, my family, Theresa my source of inspiration and last but not least, i want to give a special thank to all the companies that use us as a promotional platform, so we can continue helping the little entrepreneurs, that with tremendous work and amazing sacrifices give you traveler what you need every day, so they can send their kids to school. This is synergy, this is Patagonia´s Black Sheep and we are at your service! Always

Publisher:

José Ignacio Blavi Aros ignacio@patagoniablacksheep.com

Creative Director: Cristian Manns

Directors:

Rustyn Mesdag Pilar Irribarra

We believe in alternative power. We believe in nature remaining open for everybody. We believe in conservation and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. We believe in live outdoor music. We believe in healthy living and organic food. We believe in volunteering. We believe you can make a difference. We believe that the state of the world is too screwed up to ignore anymore. We believe in Robin Hood. We believe in deep breaths outside. We believe in the golden rule. We believe in testing the boundaries. We believe in sharing good advice and in the power of word of mouth. We believe in helping people get out of the office. We believe you should love what you do, or stop. We believe that in life what you pack in you will pack out. We believe travel is about experience culture, living like locals, respecting Pachamama, and going back home changed (or not returning home at all). We believe travelers abroad are the best representatives of their countries, and we should be united. We make a difference and we know you can join us.

Special Thanks:

Hotel Cabo de Hornos Conaf Miguel Blavi Veronica Aros

Trail tips: Rustyn Mesdag

Where to find us:

Avenida Vitacura 2939 10th floor Las Condes, Santiago Phone: (+56-2) 431.5353 • Baqueano 719 Puerto Natales, Patagonia


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How to get around Patagonia This schedule is a rough guide, as times always change slightly. During winter and at the beginning and end of the summer season, there are fewer buses. There is no public transportation to Torres del Paine during winter. Please check with the bus companies directly for the latest schedules, terms and conditions.

Chile / Argentina Buses Punta Arenas - Ushuaia Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Ushuaia - Punta Arenas Every day except Saturday 09.00

Puerto Natales - Ushuaia Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Ramirez 224

Every day Except Sunday 07.00

Ushuaia - Puerto Natales Every day except Sat. at 07.30 (with a bus change near PA)

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Buses Pacheco Ph. 414513 Ramirez 224

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Daily 07.30 10.00 13.30

Buses Pacheco San Martín 1267

Every day Except Sun. 07.00 (with a bus change near PA)

Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales 17.00 19.30

Buses Pacheco Ph. 242174 Colón 900

Daily 08.30 10.30 14.00

Puerto Natales - El Calafate

El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Cootra Ph. 412785 Baquedano 456

Cootra Terminal de buses

Daily 08.30 M, W, F & Sun.: 07.00 T, Th & Sat.: 08.00 & 14.30

Zaajh Ph. 412260 Arturo Prat 236

Torres del Paine Buses

Zaajh Terminal de buses

Buses Pacheco Colon 900 Ph: 242174

Buses Pacheco Terminal de Buses

Tue, Fri, Sun. 11:30

Pacheco - Ramirez 224 - Phone: 56.61.242174 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales

13.00 13.30 14.30 17.00

18.00 19.00 19.45 22.00

Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971 Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration

07.30 09.45 10.45 11.45

14.30 16.30 17.30 18.00

2008-2009 Season Schedule Dates

W, F & Sun.: 08.00 T, Th & Sat.: 17.00

Rio Gallegos - Punta Arenas

Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS 18.00 19.30

Daily 08.30

Punta Arenas - Rio Gallegos

Natales – Torres del Paine

From Pudeto

From Refugio Pehoe

November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009

09.30* 12.00 18.00

10.00* 12.30 18.30

March 16 - 31, 2009

12.00 18.00

12.30 18.30

April 2009

12.00

12.30

*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2009 & 01/01/2010. One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person

Mon, Wen, Sat. 12:00

Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net

BUSES PACHECO .COM A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

Because some views cannot be seen via public transporation... Emsa Rent-a-Car • Punta Arenas • Puerto Natales Jeeps • Cars • Pickups 4x4 • Vans

www.emsarentacar.cl

Puerto Natales Eberhard 547 Phone: (56 61) 614.388 email: natales@viaterra.cl

Punta Arenas Airport Phone: (56 61) 210.861

Punta Arenas Roca 1044 Phone: (56 61) 614.381 email: rentacar@viaterra.cl

Fotografia © 2008 Daniel Bruhin W.


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Puerto Natales, Chile POPULATION: 19,000 FOUNDED: 1911 WHAT’S GROOVY: Laguna Sofía for climbing, kayaking & swimming. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

Puerto Natales is a city in Chilean Patagonia, located 247 km (153 mi) northwest of Punta Arenas and is the final port of call for the Navimag ferry sailing from Puerto Montt into the Señoret Channel as well as the primary transit point for travelers to Torres del Paine National Park. It is the capital of Última Esperanza Province of Magallanes and Antártica Chilena Region. Última Esperanza Sound, originally inhabited by the Kawéskar tribe, or Alacaluf, and the Aonikenk, or Tehuelche, was sailed in 1557 by Juan Ladrilleros, a sailor who was looking for the Strait of Magellan. The city was settled by Germans, British, Croatian and Chilean people coming from the

Book Exchange English book’s about

PATAG O N I A WIFI - REAL COFFE - INTERNET Blanco Encalada 226, Puer to Natales.

LAVACENTER Laundry Drop your pants here. Drop off before noon for same-day service. Open 10 a.m.-12 p.m. & 2:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m. Phone 99590447 • Blanco Encalada 417, Puerto Natales, Chile

Lowe Alpine • North Face • Marmot Primus • Sierra Designs

Rent-Equipment Cecilia

9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Eberhard 214 Pto. Natales • agenciacecilia@yahoo.es 56.61.412589 • Credit cards accepted

Island of Chiloé, all attracted by the sheep-raising industry. Finally, the city was founded under the government of Ramón Barros Luco on May 31, 1911. Nowadays, the livelihood of Puerto Natales relies on tourism. Because Puerto Natales was not started as a tourist town, the history of the region can be seen by walking the back streets and coastal dirt roads. A bike ride in any direction can be rewarding as well. If you have a day or two to burn, before or after your trek in Torres del Paine, there are all kinds of day tours that you can booked from the various agencies in the downtown area.

    questions & answers If I arrive to Natales from Ushuaia or on the last bus from Punta Arenas, can I still catch the bus to Torres del Paine first thing the next day? This really depends on how ready you are. We recommend waiting for the second bus into the Park (which only runs during high season) or just taking a prep day in Natales during low season to rent any gear you need and do your food shop. If I arrive here on Navimag, can I still hit the trail first thing the next morning? This depends on sea conditions and arrival times. Plus see above answer and Torres del Paine Q&A. What is Navimag? Navimag is the weekly ferry service (which originally just brought goods to the extreme parts of Chile from the north.) Now it shuttles travelers from between Natales and Puerto Montt. What the heck is a “Zodiac”? A motorized rubber raft, used for various types of trips in southern Chile, including navegating the upper Serrano River heading into Torres del Paine. Is there a place where I can rent or buy equipment in a pinch, 24 hours a day? Yep! La Maddera Outdoor Store runs a 24-hour hotline for all your 2 a.m. gear emergencies. Duruing regular business hours, you can find them at the corner of Bulnes and Pratt. After hours, call (cell) 09 418 4100 or (home) 412 591. Where can I buy camping food in town? Don Bosco and Abu Gosch are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes, respectively. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas.You can find them in the outdoor and building material stores. Does Black Sheep sell T-shirts? Where can I find them? Yes! Get ‘em hot off the press at La Maddera (on the corner of Pratt and Bulnes). What about shopping hours midday? Between 12 and 3 p.m. everything is pretty locked down, except for the Abu G.

What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. Why is there so much trash on the beach? That’s a great question...You could always help and pick some up. What about recycling programs? Batteries are recycled and collected in various containers throughout town, including at the Post Office. As yet, all other recycling for the season is still at a standstill. The city is working on a glass recycling program that should be up and running within the next month. For more information, contact the Cámara de Turismo. And all of the dogs running around? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing... How much do the taxis cost? 1.000 pesos within city limits. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini-skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? It’s one of life’s mysteries, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. Why can’t I flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?! It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T! A bit gross and bizarre, but the pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it. Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses? Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good idea when possible, but there’s a lot of Patagonia out there that can’t be accessed by public transportation. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk super fast and use a whole lotta slang. Why do I receive a little piece of receipt paper every time I buy something? It’s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.


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The perfect trekking partner? Traveling is hard. Anyone who says different isn’t a traveler; they’re a tourist. A traveler’s life and their trip are one in the same, living life while traveling rather than taking a vacation from life. There’s a cool, unspoken code between travelers: trust. Trust that no one is going to rummage through your backpack in the hostel or that another backpacker will keep an eye on your stuff while you’re in the bathroom. We meet people on the road, talk, share meals, and travel with strangers. In this environment, it’s certainly not uncommon to meet another person who also needs a trekking partner. The best thing you can hope for is meeting a new friend that will be with you forever, and the worst thing that can happen is you can get hooked up with someone who’s not trustworthy or who is just plain annoying. So, how do you choose the perfect trekking partner? How do you tell someone it’s not working out? How do you tell a complete stranger that they’re bugging the crap out of you? The big choice... Deciding who you want to trek with is as important to as the itinerary itself. You may have a specific goal for your trip, or you may just want to spend time with the group. The trick is making sure everyone is on the same page. We’re all individuals with our individual quirks, and that’s great. But it’s

better to find out if your idiosyncrasies mesh before the trip. Develpoing a standard trail conduct for the team can usually prevent most problems. Things like diet, sleeping arangements, nudity, wake up times, or even the route are good indicators of how the trip will be. Another important detail is the average pace of the group. One person’s goal may be to experience a relaxing spiritual awakening and another’s goal may be to push themselves physically, reach their limits and surpass them. A pairing like this could cause a problem. After the fact... So what happens when you’re already out on the trail when you realize your new trekking partner isn’t working out? Option 1. Take the high road. Try to deal with it. Is it really that bad? Can you handle it for the sake of the trip? Just suck it up a little? Option 2. Talk with your team about what’s got your panties in a bunch, and see if the problem can be solved. Don’t under-estimate the power of peer pressure. There might just be others in the group that feel the same way. Most people will try to overlook problems and not say anything. If you mention what’s bugging you, you may even end up being the hero of the trip. Option 3. Bail. Get out. Run. But how? How to seperate...

If for some reason you know it’s time to call your partnership quits and you’re ready to go your own way (or send somebody else packin’), think about these things first... 1. Safety first. Never leave a partner in a situation where they--or you--may be put in harm’s way. Nobody should ever be left without proper equipment, food supplies, or knowledge. Even if you manage to split the food, fuel, and tents, there is no way to split experience. The group dynamic from the beginning may have lead to the trek or climb that was chosen. The mountains are no place for assumptions when dealing with safety. 2. No secrets. Never try to depart secretly or run off witout saying a word. And no fake reasons, no lies. Be polite; don’t let frustration or anger get the best of you, but do explain why you’re bugging out of the trip. If you have the balls enough to leave mid-trip, then have the balls enough to say why. This also has to do with saftey. People need to know where you’re going, specifically, and why. 3. Equipment is often divided among the group. It might not be possible to just take off. Someone could be left holding the stove, while another has the fuel, and a tent can’t be divided like a chocolate bar. If you have any doubts or a history of wanting to go your own way, you’d better plan for this possibilty in advance. It’s a bit heavier, but you can still trek with a group

while staying self-sufficient. Then, at any point, if the pace or your destination changes, you have the freedom to do what you need to do. The perfect trekking partner... No one wants to dump a partner--or be dumped. So, what does make the perfect trekking partner? The list is long and maybe undefinable, but here are a few tricks to impress the rest of your team... Have a sense of humor; it’s a trekker’s best friend When it’s time for a water run at camp, grab everyone’s water bottle for a fill up. Hide extra treats in your pack to share with the team, or surprise them with a snort of whiskey on day four. Mind your personal hygiene. Enough said. Don’t be the first to complain about foul weather conditions. Don’t be that guy! Be responsible for the distance between you and the person in front of you. It makes people nervous to have someone on their tail. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbors food or gear. Nothing is more annoying than a trekking partner who planned and packed poorly and assumes that the rest of the team will take care of them. Don’t be that guy either! Be the one who brought a little extra toilet paper or dried fruit. Be prepared to carry a little extra. Carrying the garbage or the wet tent shows leadership and sets a good example, and creates an upward spiral. Try to avoid gassing out your tent partner. Wake up before everyone else. Greeting your teammates with a hot drink in the morning is what legends are made of.

El Rincon del Tata Restaurant Un lugar con histoia 56.061.614291 Arturo Prat 236, Puerto Natales, Chile

• • • • •

Rent a Car Tourism Agency Navimag Tickets Antarctic Information Flyfishing • Spinning • Trolling

Baquedano 558 • Puerto Natales

info@amazingpatagonia.com Office: 61 - 410 486 • Cell: 09 - 748 938 22

Turismo Zaahj Since 1961 at your service

Linea Regular Internacional Puerto Natales - Calafate Calafate - Puerto Natales Perito Moreno 061.412260 Parque Torres del Paine Ar turo Prat 236/270 w w w. t u r i s m o z a a h j . c o . c l


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Ancestrological Art Patagonia.

Doggy style.

Two Silversmiths

feminine hygiene on the trail

Taller del Arbol Workshop in Natales Ricardo Varela (left) and Felipe Marambio (right) in their workshop,Taller del Arbol, Eberhard 318 While traveling in Patagonia, it’s easy enough to find a typical souvenir for yourself or a loved one. But if you want to bring home a real piece of Patagonia, made by experts, good people, who live, work, and play locally, go talk to Ricardo and Felipe.

keep changing to keep the passion in [his] work. Somehow, you have to conserve part of the passion you have for your artistry, so that your work gives you back some passion and energy to produce more work.” And you see this all over Taller del Arbol, the first silversmith shop in Puerto Natales.

Ricardo Varela and Felipe Marambio, The Taller del Arbol store owners and artist silversmiths have been working together, on and off, since 1985. Their partnership is the result of a series of happy accidents, an example of how one road leads to the next, until there you are, not entirely sure how you got there and not having planned for where you end up. They describe the craft of the jewelry maker: “Any material is valuable if you work it. A stone is just a stone until you work it, until you make them precious.” And that is just what they do.

Don’t leave Natales without meeting these guys and seeing their work.Visiting their workshop is like checking out a small art gallery. They work with anything you can imagine, any type of rock, gem, leather, silver, gourds, gold, you name it.You can find them in the store with a wood door, Eberhard 316, with the hippy and artisan jewelry in the window display, among succulents, fossils, and horns. They’re open year round, and during the high season (approximately October-March), they’re open all day long: 9 a.m. to midnight, Monday-Friday, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, phone: +56 61 411461.

When talking about the importance of passion in his work, Ricardo explains he has “to

These dogs need your help. Contact perros@chileaustral.com or call 56.61.262.607 (English, Spanish & dog spoken.) The Punta Arenas humane society, La Protectora de Punta Arenas, needs your help! Although they provide critical services for stray animals, they are close to shutting down due to lack of resources. Operating on a very limited budget in a town with a huge population of stray dogs. The shelter literally has only a handful of supporters and volunteers operating in a human population of 120,000 and a stray animal population as high as 15,000. La Protectora provides low-cost medical services, discounted spay/neuter, and dignified euthanasia when necessary. One of their eductaional projects teaches people about the important responsibility of pet ownership.

On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month. A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods. For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag. As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient. Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day. The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.

hostal@alfindelmundo.cl

www.alfindelmundo.cl

The women side of Patagonia girls working in the middle of nowhere will take care of you. cafeteria@hotel3pasos.cl 56.61.415284 Cerro Castillo. Border.

You can find us in the center of Punta Arenas Downtown, two blocks from the main square, Supermarkets, airplanes offices and the best restaurantes.

Punta Arenas O’Higgins 1026 Patagonia Chilena


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Wind Jumping

Patagonia’s new sport

With winds over 60 km/h, Blly Smith, Patagonia’s clothes designer, started to fool around with his invention, a strong sail attached to the foots and hands that is used to slowdown when you go down hill in your skate longboard. Luis, a guide of Torres del Paine National Park, saw that and ask him if he could try it. Then Billy saw the firs wind jump in Patagonia. sportingsailes.com Everything else is now history cause’ its the new trend around, to go down moraines.

Now we are transposing this experience to you, come with us and reach the highest sensation in adrenaline of the extreme patagonian wind. Within this new sail you’re really going to feel the winds here, at Patagonia.

sportingsailes.com

sportingsailes.com

Agencia de Turismo Equipo Outdoor

Punta Arenas Lautaro Navarro Nº 1091


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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential

Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay

long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.

    questions & answers What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.

How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.

How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free.

How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours. What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m. When’s the latest I can start my trek? In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park around 2.30 p.m., más o menos.

What’s the Park entrance fee? 15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD).

Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas. How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly

45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios.

Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?

Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.

Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during the winter off-season.

Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though. What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Is it better to trek the Park clockwise or counterclockwise?

A place with history Barbeques Lodging Horse Riding

Km 38 norte, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile. Phone: (56) (2) 1969630 Reservations Punta Arenas: Ph. 56.61.245494 Email: reservas@hotel3pasos.cl

www.hotel3pasos.com

vCan you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio. Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples. Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Should I worry about bugs in the Park? Bug repellent is definitely a good idea, especially on the back of the Circuit or when the weather warms up and the wind chills out. I’m doing the circuit. Is there anything I should know before I go?

You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.

Do the circuit counterclockwise. It’s a good idea to start with the W. This will lighten your food load when you head over the pass. After Campamento Perros, make sure you go LEFT, following the PINK ribbons. Do not cross the river. (The rightside trail with orange paint is old, unkempt and knee-deep muddy for a couple of hours.)

How much does the catamaran between Pehoe and Pudeto cost? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.

How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.


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Black Sheep w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m

T-SHIRTS FOR SALE!! SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL MOVEMENT... GET YOUR BLACK SHEEP UNIFORM NOW.

Washing with dirt. brought by the experts. Fat. Fat and grease. We love it. Even if you don’t think you love it, you actually do. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, we all crave foods that hold some kind of fat: the grease in meat, the oils in avacados, the whole cream in ice cream. We not only like it, we need it. And we especially need it for energy while trekking. A couple of facts: 1.) Soaps are a threat to fresh water supplies. It´s best not to use nonbiodegradable products at all. 2.) Cold stream or lake water turns left-over grease on dishes into a thick, lard-like glue. Impossible to remove without soap and hot water... or is it?

PuntaArenas.PuertoNatales. PuertoVaras.Santiago

Here’s the trick: take your dirty dinner dishes to an area of sand or small rocks, grab a fistful of dirt and scrub! The small granules of dirt and pebbles will absorb all the oils from your meal and will remove almost any of the tough-to-scrub food particles from your dishes. Even burnt dinner pots clean up quickly with gravel! Your pots and dishes are left with nothing more than a clean coat of dust that is easily rinsed with only a small amount of water, soap-free!

EBERHARD 302

PUERTO NATALES


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Mountain Lodges in

TORRES DEL PAINE REFUGIO TORRES | REFUGIO CHILENO | REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS

Reservations for cabins, lodges, camping & more in the circuit of Torres del Paine Telephone: (56 61) 614 185 / 614184 reservas@fantasticosur.com


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Punta Arenas, Chile POPULATION: 116.005 FOUNDED: 1848 WHAT’S GROOVY: Trekking to Cabo Froward JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

    questions & answers

Punta Arenas is the southern-most city on continental South America, overlooking the famous Strait of Magellan. Punta Arenas has a long, bloody history, starting with Magellen’s discovery of the strait, a passageway from Europe to the Pacific, and continuing with the nearby gold booms, wool booms and attempts to ‘tame’ and convert the native peoples (Kaweshkar, Yagan, Aonikenk and Selk’nam). The city experienced a slump in the early 20th century with the opening of the Panama Canal, the drop in wool prices, and the end of the whaling trade. Things started looking up again with the discovery of local oil, and now the region’s economy relies heavily on the petroleum industry. Those

How much do taxis cost? All taxis have a taximeter. In and around the center you’ll pay between 1.500 and 2.500 pesos.

What is ‘downtown’ Punta Arenas? Mainly the blocks around the plaza which are shown on the map. What does Punta Arenas mean? Punta Arenas means “sandy point” after its sandy soil and rocky beaches. A swim however isn’t recommended with an average water temperature of 5 degrees C. Why are there ropes on the main square corners? Punta Arenas is a windy city especially in spring and summer with winds up to 120 km/h. The ropes are put up to prevent people from being blown into the street. Where is the bus station? Unfortunately Punta Arenas doesn’t have a central bus station. Every company has its own terminal somewhere in the center. There are numerous buses to Natales until 8 p.m. Buses to Argentina and to Torres del Paine National Park are a little less frequent. Are there tours to Torres del Paine National Park from Punta Arenas? Most of the travel agencies in Punta Arenas can organize trips to the Park. Be aware that a “full day Torres del Paine” will be a very long bus ride. However, if you’re short on time…

Where can I change money? There are a couple of agencies, mainly concentrated on Lautaro Navarro between Pedro Montt and Fagnano. Can I drink the tap water? Yes, tap water is absolutely safe. How far is Torres del Paine from here? 4.5 hrs. to the new park entrance at Río Serrano. 5hrs to Laguna Amarga entrance. How to get to Torres del Paine from Punta Arenas? Most people make a stop over in the town of Puerto Natales. However, there are straight buses to Torres del Paine through Buses Barria. How far to Puerto Natales, Provenir & Ushuaia? 250 km to Puerto Natales. 40 km as the crow flies to Porvenir, about 2.5 hrs by ferry. 600 km to Ushuaia via Primera Angostura. What are the highlights of the Punta Arenas city center? To start with, the plaza. It’s a nice square surrounded by old trees and an outstanding central monument honoring Magellan, the Portuguese

interested in maritime history and remote cultures will enjoy Punta Arenas’ many museums. Museo Regional Salesiano has several exibits on the region’s native tribes along with an impressive array of taxidermied animals. Punta Arenas is the gateway to visit Magallenic Penguins, with colonies located at Seno Otway (very close, with about 11,000 nesting birds) and Isla Magdalena (reachable by boat, with about 120,000 penguins). Penguin season is roughly October-March. If you’re not here when the penguins are, consider visiting Puerto Hambre and Fuerto Bulnes, or do some end-of-the-world trekking to places like Cabo Froward, the bottommost tip of South America.

discoverer. Walk four blocks up from the plaza to the Mirador de la Cruz where you have a beautiful view of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. You can also depart from the plaza along Magallanes Street to visit the cemetery, which is considered one of the most beautiful in South America. On your way back visit the Salesian museum which will give you a full overview of the regional flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. And next door you can visit the enormous Don Bosco church. Is it possible to get to any of the zillions of islands I see on the map? Yes! For a price. Solo Expediciones (Jose Nogueira 1255) offers boat trips to remote islands for almostoff-the-map trekking, fishing, and more. What are my penguin options? 1.) Tours leave every afternoon to Seno Otway. 2.) Ferry to Isla Magdalena afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 3.) Zodiac boat trips in the morning and afternoon to Isla Magdalena, every day. What type of day tours are there? You can visit the penguin colonies, historic Fuerte Bulnes, or even do a side trip to Laguna Parriar National Forest (recommended). Do the street dogs bite? Yes, gringos only.

How do I know where the colectivos go? There are no plans or maps. People just know... or they don’t. It always says on the sign, but then they blast by you, so it’s difficult to read. Have fun!

How many people live here? About 120.000. That’s about 0.8% of Chile’s total population. How much is an airport transfer? A taxi to the airport usually costs 5.000. From the airport to town it’s about 8.000. There are also minibus shuttles, which take a bit longer because they have more people to pick up, but they’re more economical. Can I reach the end of the continent? From Punta Arenas the road continuous about 60 km south. From there it is about a three days hike to Cabo Froward which is the southernmost tip of South America’s continent. How do I get to the big shopping mall from downtown? Take a taxi, or cheaper yet - take a colectivo number 800, 300, 114, 112, 777 or 17. These colectivos will drop you off at the huge grocery store, Lider, which is part of the mall.

Buses Gómez

How far is the airport out of town?

Regular Buses to & from Torres del Paine Every day

Is there any public transportation? Yes! Micro is the name for the public buses, and they are a great option to get to know Punta Arenas. Just hop onto one, take it as far as it goes, which is until you are the last one on the bus and the driver nervously starts to look at you from the rear-view mirror. Then you ask him to take you back to the centro. Colectivos are car-type public transportation. Like buses, they have a defined route, but they ‘collect’ people along the road, so you may hop on and off. Both options are pretty inexpensive.

About 20km or 30 minutes.

Prat 234, Puerto Natales Ph: (56.61) 414700

Bories Nº 655

Lake District & Patagonia

Punta Arenas 56-61 224819 56-9 8827569 www.adel.cl


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erratic rock e r r a t ic rock, Baquedano 719, Puer t o N a t a l e s , C h i l e , P a t a g o n i a • w w w. e r r a t i c ro c k . c o m • + 5 6 - 6 1 - 4 1 0 3 5 5

hostel • guide service • rental equipment • transportation • information center • recycling center

Open in winter too.

The Andes and the Patagonian Glaciers Glaciers are widespread along the Andes from the tropical ice bodies in the north to the Patagonian Icefields and the Tierra del Fuego in the south. The available fluctuation series cover the time period since the 1960s.

The Andes, stretching over 7000 km, is the world’s longest continental mountain range and a distinct feature of South America, forming a continuous chain of mountains in a north-south direction along the entire west coast. In the north-central portion of South America the Andes are divided into several ridges which span some hundred km in width, whereas to the south the Andes form a narrower and more concentrated chain.The highest peak is the Aconcagua (6 962 m asl), situated in Argentina close to the border with Chile.The climate of the Andes varies greatly depending on latitude, altitude and proximity to the sea.This is found for example in the snowline altitude, whichisat4500– 4800maslinthetropical Andes of Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, and northern Peru, rises to 5 000–6 500 m asl in the Atacama desert (northern Chile), then descends to 4 500 m asl on Aconcagua at 32°S,2000maslat40°S,650–1000masl at50°S,andonly30 0maslat55°S(Troll1973). Approximate glacier areas for tropical South America are: 1.8 km2 for Venezuela, 87 km2 for Colombia, 90 km2 for Ecuador, 1 780 km2 for Peru and 534 km2 for Bolivia (Kaser and Osmaston 2002). By far the largest ice cover at about 23 000 km2 is found in Chile and Argentina, with more than 85 per cent located in the Northern and Southern Patagonian Icefields and in the Cordillera Darwin Icefield in Tierra del Fuego (Naruse 2006). Glaciers in South America are critically important as a water resource for domestic, agricultural and industrial uses, particularly in equatorial, tropical and subtropical latitudes (Casassa et al. 2007). Andean glaciers also pose a natural hazard, for example, in the form of lahars related to volcanic eruptions, rock/ice avalanches, debris flows and glacier floods related to gravity, climatic processes and ice dynamics (Casassa et al. 2007).

In the southern Andes, most glaciers reached their LIA maximum between the late 17th and early 19th centuries (Villalba 1994).The Peruvian glaciers were in advanced positions in the 1870s, followed by a rapid retreat (Grove 2004). Of the available in-situ mass balance measurements from the Andes only a dozen cover more than a decade, with earliest observations starting at the end of the 1960s. Mass balance is currently being measured on 28 glaciers from which eleven series have been reported. Longterm series comes from Echaurren Norte in central Chile with more than 30 years of continuous mass balance measurements, as well as from Zongo and Chacaltaya in Bolivia (14 years), and Antizana 15 Alpha in Ecuador (11 years).The observations thus include the glacier shrinkage of the past decades. There have been a few cases of surging glaciers, the most recent being Horcones Inferior in Argentina, with two major surge events starting in 1984 and in 2004 (Milana 2007).The small number of available data series indicates the problems encountered when conducting such measurements under difficult logistical conditions and with unreliable financial support (Casassa et al. 2007). Except for a few cases in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, glaciers in South America have shown a general retreat and wasting since the LIA maximum extent with an enhanced retreat trend in recent decades (Casassa et al. 2007). The Northern Patagonian Icefield lost about 3.4 per cent (140 km2) of its area between1942 and 2001, whereby the frontal tongues of calving glaciers were observed to be an important source of recession and area change (Rivera et al. 2007).Thinning rates of up to 30 m/y have been observed recently in the Southern Patagonian Icefield, with a relevant contribution to sea level rise (Rignot et al. 2003).


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Calafate, Argentina

POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)

    questions & answers El Calafate How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities. What can I do in Calafate? Visit the glaciers. Perito Moreno is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit five other glaciers in the area (Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis & Heim). What about Upsala? Can I visit that glacier?

Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets

and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.

You can’t visit Upsala right now.The waterway is blocked by massive icebergs.

Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?

How do I get to/from the Calafate airport?

Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed.This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box.

By the airport shuttle, which costs around $26 ARS per person. By taxi it’s about $70 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate? The information center is in the bus station. Can I drink the tap water? In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people.

When are the stores open, anyway? In Calafate, they’re open from around 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m. What’s the weather like in these parts? It’s Patagonia.The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer. Who was Perito Moreno? Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish. Are there ice hikes on the glacier? There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice.To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip. Bring your own lunch for the excursions.The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time! Is it safe at night? Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. Where can I camp in El Calafate?

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There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities.The best one is El Ovejero. Are there any cheap eating options? Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price. What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).

How many people live in El Chaltén? 200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capitol and youngest city, founded in 1985. What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any banks, or places to change money. They are installing an ATM, but it still doesn’t have cash, so best to bring your pesos with you. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free.Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It’s up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the Park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all leaveno-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén.They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles. What if I don’t have lodging reservations? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on the same side of the village. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You need to stay at least one night. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit other places like Laguna del Desierto. Where can I camp in El Chaltén?

Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?

In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs about ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. Outside of town, Camping Confluencia is free. Madsen, the former free camping near the entrance of the Fitz Roy Trail is closed indefinitely.There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers.

Not really.The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m.Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the evening bus to El Chaltén.

Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?

El Chaltén How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate? By bus. It takes about 3.5 hours.

Will my cell phone work in Chaltén?


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Santiago, Chile POPULATION: 5.428.490 FOUNDED: February 12, 1541 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hick to Cerro Provincia JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

For most visitors, sprawling Santiago de Chile, its mediterranean hillsides, and the snow-covered Andean crest are their first impressions of the country. Santiago may luck Buenos Aires’s international profile, but its finest attractions can match or surpass those of Argentina’s capital. And few world capitals can match the skiing, hiking, climbing and white-water rafting and kayaking that are barely an hour beyond the city limits. Since the return to constitutional government and subsequent economic expansion, the city has improved greatly. Tasteful contemporary apartments have replaced unsalvageable structures in a downtown construction boom. Barrio Bellavista has enjoyed a gastronomic and nightlife boom, and

international commerce flourishes in Las Condes at El Golf. More than a third of all chileans, live in Gran Santiago. The locus of economic and political power, ha capital has grown at the expense of the regions, but unevenly so-some communes (districts), have become prosperous, others remain desperately poor. You have tons of outdoor’s things to do here, like trekking Cerro Provincia staying a night over the city, rock climbing at Cajon del Maipo and enjoying a really nice tour to one of the great local vinyards for ONLY a “little” sip of wine.

    questions & answers Do I want to stay at Santiago for more than a day? Theres much more things to do than what most of guide books tell you.They aren’t bad, but its not a little town, so the must over there o a few steps forward than visiting just the cathedral, the main square and Cerro Santa Lucia. What can I do in Santiago? Go for a trek or a hick, its a valley so there are more than 2 trails to discover. I love the area of Cerro Provincia, you can see everything just getting half the way.You can also go rafting, climbing to Cajon del Maipo, and if

you don’t have much time and you’re dying to do it, there are a few amazing walls near down town. Can I visit a glacier? You are not in Patagonia any more, but actually an hour away you can trek and get to an amazing glacier. How do I get to/from the Santiago airport? You can catch a taxi for $10.000 pesos.Yo can do it also by the airport shuttle, which its cheaper if you are traveling alone, if not just take a taxi.

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Where is the information center in Santiago? Go to Providencia near Manuel Montt Metro Station. Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed. So bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. What’s the weather like in these parts? Now you will be dying, sweating almost your blood out. At least if you’re getting use to

Patagonia’s weather. Is it safe at night? In most places you will be, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. What are the eating options? You have a lot to discover, but go to Bellavista, walk a bit and find a nice restaurant there. You can alsso find there nice places to chill and party after a great day of hicks, there we can recommend you Bar Constitución at calle Constitución, in the middle of Bellavista. Is it dangerous to walk at nigth alone? Yes. if you are counting travel checks siting on the sidewalk in downtown.

There is a new must on your list!

Finaly!!!

After almost 4 years of brewing beer in Puerto Natales Baguales Brewery+Restaurant will make you experience the taste of Patagonia, with 100% natural Ale and with a lively menu that complements the strong characteristics of the beer.

Its so good that if you try it before living to your adventure there will be nothing else on your mind, but tasting it again. Join us at Bories 430, in front of the main square. Open all day.


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Puerto Varas, Chile POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)

    questions & answers How do I get to Puerto Varas? If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. Where can I stay without breaking the bank? There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people. How should I dress for the climate? In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather. Will I have any problems with the water or food? In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days. What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake? That’s Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m).

Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the

iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.

How is the fishing in this area? Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout. What’s the nightlife like? There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season. Are there any good day hikes in the area? Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few. What else is there to do? There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla. What kind of wildlife can I see in the park? There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all. How can I get around without a car? In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.

El primer Pub Restaurante carbono neutral El impacto del cambio climático, veranos extremos, derretimiento masivo de los glaciares, el aumento del nivel del mar, etc. es ya una amenaza perceptible en la vida cotidiana de todas las personas alrededor del planeta, así como en el acceso al agua, la producción de alimentos, la salud y el uso de la tierra, entre otros. “La evidencia científica es hoy en día abrumadora: El cambio climático es una amenaza global, y se requiere una respuesta urgente. En Puerto Varas nos sentimos orgullosos de nuestra forma de vida, de nuestro potencial de crear, de innovar, de nuestra conciencia ecológica y de nuestra preocupación por el medio ambiente. Son varias las organizaciones y muchas las personas que trabajan o aportan con el fin de proteger nuestro amado planeta tierra de nosotros mismos, pero aún falta. Somos nosotros los que debemos responsabilizarnos por nuestro entorno y una muy buena forma es tomando parte de la acción colectiva “PIENSA GLOBAL,

ACTÚA LOCAL”. Cada grano de arena cuenta y dentro de nuestras acciones personales por aminorar el deterioro del planeta consideramos que la medida más efectiva y que logra indudablemente contrarrestar parte del daño realizado es el levantamiento de la huella de carbono, es decir la medición del impacto de nuestras actividades comerciales e industriales de emisiones de gases de efecto invernadero, medidos en toneladas de dióxido de carbono equivalente para luego apoyar proyectos certificados que compensen nuestras emisiones, es decir que remuevan tanto dióxido de carbono como el que generamos. Dominga Patagonia, en el año que tiene de vida, se ha caracterizado por marcar la pauta en innovación, vanguardia, en tener cocina de verdad, en ser más que un restaurante al participar y generar actividades culturales, gastronómicas, deportivas, etc. y en darle vida a la noche de Puerto Varas creando un espacio para la reunión y compartir. Siguiendo la misma línea hemos decidido además ser pioneros en devolverle la mano al medio ambiente. En estos momentos, gracias a GEQ sabemos que entre Agosto del 2008 y Agosto del 2009 emitimos un total de 10 ton de CO2 y estamos buscando un proyecto para compensar nuestras emisiones para lograr la neutralidad climática.


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