Om Gastro Namah

There is no denying that all Bengalis are great food aficionados. I use “ all” deliberately and with great pride to describe my fellow Bongs, whose love for good food is legendary. This fervent devotion is all encompassing– from the royal biriyani to the humble khichuri. In this article, I explore the nuances of our famous Durga Pujor bhog or Pujor ranna. To be honest, it is a simple affair. Quite a paradox, given the varied and innumerous culinary delights that comprise our cuisine. Bengalis are ardent patrons of a rich diet. Yet during Durga Pujo, the no-onion nogarlic bhog is cherished and consumed with great enthusiasm. I can only define bhog as thakurer prasad. But it is so much more. Usually, served at lunchtime, it is a communal meal, unpretentious yet nutritious. The cornerstone of a traditional bhog is the Khichudi. Though of humble origin and sans onion and garlic, this dish is a labour of love. A steaming plate of hot khichudi and labra, served on a saal pata r thala – a treat indeed! Add to it a crunchy beguni, papad, sweet tomato-r chutney and payesh – and bam! You have tasted ambrosia. The mool bhog or prasad offered to Goddess, is also a delectable platter. Prepared with great care and piety, it consists of the famed khichudi cooked with the fragnant gobindobog rice. As an alternative, some households prepare mishti pulao –a vibrant yellow pilaf dotted with luscious black currants and cashews, fried golden brown. Luchi or radhaballabi with aloor dum can also be offered to the deity. This is accompanied by either three or five types of bhaja – the most popular ones being begun bhaja, potol bhaja, aloo bhaja, fried cauliflower and fried pumpkin. Labra is a reliable accompaniment for the khichudi, a panchmishali tarkaari of exceptional popularity. Its uniqueness is accentuated by the pungent mustard oil and panchphoron it is cooked in. No bhog prasad is complete without sweet delicacies– tomato-r chutney, suji and payesh. Pujor ranna has many facets. This endeavor is not a delicate affair but one that is geared towards mass consumption and bonhomie. It holds true, especially for Probasi Bengalis, for whom food is more than a means of sustenance, rather it is symbolic of our cultural identity and roots. The mool bhog (prasad) is offered to the Goddess and not usually cooked in vast amounts. On the other hand, bhog served at pandals, is a sumptuous affair. Cooked in vast quantities, the khichudi, labra, tomato-r chutney and payesh are fed to thousands of devout Bengalis. Though the menu remains the same, novelties like aloor dum, cholar daal, aloo phulkopir tarkaari, chanar dalna are not uncommon appearances to the luncheon. It is, however, dependent of the Pujo budget.

You see, so much of Pujo is about memories, old and new. Nostalgia marks every fabric of grand celebration. We have embraced the changing times, yet we have upheld traditions age-old. The boshekhawa system is no longer prevalent, the saal-pataer thala has been replaced by polystyrene plates yet the food is served with the same enthusiasm. “Dada, aar ekta begun bhaja ” – can still be heard today.

Thus, even in its humbleness the bhog accentuates the bond that holds us all together. It is truly a blessing of Ma Durga that such a simple fare can be one of the cornerstones of our rich culture. So let us sway to the hypnotic rhythm of the dhaak, inhale the divine smell of incense and camphor, listen to the chanting of the mantras and the rustle of the sarees as resplendent women, work and pray alongside, all to invoke the mighty Durga. Let her blessings be with all of us always and forever.

Poulami Basu

BHF Member