Eclat Spring/Summer # 108

Spring/Summer 2014 $6.95

international A Lifestyle Magazine

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Introducing

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Haute Horlogerie Modern Masters

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Forever in Bloom

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A Lifestyle Magazine

Spring/Summer 2014

No. 108

TABLE OF CONTENTS

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The Auroras 25

Modern Masters 32

Proudly Made in Italy

The Garavelli family continues its traditional approach to fine jewelry – one that has been infused with modernism since 1920

48 Diamonds in Flight

54 Forever In Bloom Glass Flowers at the Harvard Museum of Natural History

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Indochine Redux éclat International is published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the April/May issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to éclat International at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557 4

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Editor'S Outline

As the winds of spring blow out winter’s chill we start to notice the beginnings of summer. Nature is often the greatest inspiration for artists, sparking their creative instincts. This issue of Éclat International includes examples of talented designers using unique intermixtures of color that mimic nature in all its beauty.

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One such natural inspiration is the Aurora Borealis. The Auroras truly are nature’s cosmic jewels. The startlingly psychedelic color combinations have provided rich creative fodder for generations of artists and designers.

The availability of varied gemstones, both in size and color, excites jewelry designers

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to bring to life masterpieces making the most of the limitless possibilities in color combinations. Modern Masters explores the exotic blending of the varied rainbow of stones available.

Proudly Made in Italy provides a window into the traditional approach to fine jewelry

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craftsmanship maintained by the Garavelli family, designing and creating since 1920.

The Garavelli’s have maintained their “made in Italy” mystique by continuing to uphold exacting standards.

Natural colored diamonds have come forth as some of the most exclusive and sought after

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gemstones worldwide. Diamonds in Flight exemplifies the connoisseurs demand for these magnificent colored diamonds, and the timeless creations that have evolved, inspired by their beauty.

The Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants known as Glass Flowers, exhibited

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at the Harvard Museum of Natural History in Boston, Massachusetts showcases the brilliant artistry of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka in fabricating lifelike glass flora. Forever in

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We are most fortunate to have the opportunity to share Alan Sloyer’s awe-inspiring photographs from yet another adventure. Indocine Redux allows us to share some of the beauty of Vietnam, Cambodia and Hong Kong.

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Eclát Spring/Summer 2014

Bloom perpetuates the everlasting beauty of these exceptional creations.

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A Lifestyle Magazine www.eclatinternationalmagazine.com Spring/Summer 2014

PUBLISHER

Bertram Kalisher

No. 108

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind

ART DIRECTOR

Raj Walia

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Arts & Events Director

Richard Kalisher

EXECUTIVE OFFICE

Editorial Advertising Circulation 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 Tel: 516-295-2516 Fax: 516-374-5060

Carol Besler Nancy Pier Sindt Bertram Kalisher Jeff Prine Andrew Siskind

ONLINE EDITOR

Keiko Makishima Samuel Siskind

PARIS OFFICE

AlmaKarina Agency Thomas Claisse and Karina Rikun 36 rue Fabert 75007 Paris, France +33(7)60461213 contact@almakarina.com

SALES & MARKETING

Richard Kalisher

ÉCLAT International is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in ÉCLAT International.

No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts.

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Award winning designer, Babette Shennan was inspired throughout her life growing up in her colorful garden in Northern California. She has created a meticulously crafted, sculptural and enchanting fine jewelry collection.

San Fr ancisco Bay Area, CA | 650.450.0259 w w w.babetteshennan.com | babette@babetteshennan.com

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Showcase

Edited by Jeff Prine

The craftsmanship found in the finest jewelry rivals that of any piece of fine art—as these examples testify to. The intrinsic value of precious gemstones and metals is further enhanced by the creativity of the jeweler, who envisions them as miniature, wearable masterpieces. These are treasures meant to be worn and adored.

Show Stopper It’s easy to see why designer Robert Procop has become the darling of Red Carpet habitués such as Angelina Jolie and other Hollywood stars. His expertly crafted jewelry always makes a statement, as does this blue topaz Parisian Deco necklace with more than 188 carats of blue topaz along with white diamonds set in 18K white gold. robert procop www.robertprocop.com

Arch Ways For her new Lucina collection (meaning “light” in Latin), designer Amy Glaswand interprets in precious metals her vision of how light plays though the Gothic archways in the Doge’s Palace in Venice— along with modern industrial gear forms. These iconic shapes can be seen in her Double Arch 18K gold earrings with black onyx cut into baguette shapes, one of the trending cuts this year.

Amy glaswand www.amyglaswand.com

Rainbow Effect Goshwara always seems to be chasing rainbows. The New Yorkbased brand loves lavish gemstones suitable for daily wear. One of the latest: from the Gossip Collection are these multicolor gemstones, 18K yellow gold hoop earrings. They are the perfect foil to the lavish floral prints in apparel that are so on trend this summer.

Goshwara www.goshwara.com

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Heavenly Bodies Philadelphia-based designer Anthony Lent draws inspiration from sculptural figures, celestial bodies, human faces, and creatures both fabled and feared.

The intricate details are fashioned through Old World techniques, such as seen in this 18K yellow gold putti pendant featuring a natural baroque pearl with diamonds. The result is an angelic original design that’s truly heaven sent.

ANthony lent www.anthonylent.com

Lattice Work While her rings and other jewelry may be miniatures, there’s still as much work designing and producing them as any architectural wonder. In the Matrix Collection, designer Nada Ghazal shows just how intricate a ring can be. This 18K yellow gold ring has a dimensional lattice structure, decorated with white diamonds and rubies for an even more dramatic effect. nada g www.nadag.com

Blue Bird Designer Pamela Huizenga is a master of mixing Old World techniques with new world trends all appropriate for the digital age. In this 18K yellow gold pendant, she incorporates a large carved lapis lazuli accented with diamond pave. The delicate pastoral scene carved into the lapis is even more dramatic given the deep blue color which has been so coveted since ancient times. pamela huizenga www.pamelahuizengajewelry.com

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Rock Hard.......Silky Smooth Modern Brilliance, Etienne Perret incorporates jet black gem ceramique creating dramatic contrast between the wide ceramique band and the sintillating diamonds.

etienne@etienneperret.com

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An Overflow of Creation Volcanos have made a major impact on Italy through the ages, so no wonder Italian jeweler Sergio Antonini draws inspiration from them in his new Vulcano collection, created in honor of the wild Aeolian island.

As seen in this 18K gold pendant, the fluid-like forms of lava are recreated using rhodium-plated black veins to add a new dimension along with brilliant-cut diamonds. antonini www.antonini.com

Flash Forward Miiori, the creator of the “flash-set” technique—which gives gemstones a holographic effect in jewelry, doesn’t shy away from color or pizzazz. Such is the case with this 18K white gold bracelet flash set with diamonds, tsavorites and sapphires. Truly a cuff worthy of the “Wonder Woman” in all of us.

MIIORI www.miiori.com

Wrist Ready With the wrist continuing as the chief real estate in jewelry, bracelets remain hotter than ever. At Miseno, a brand inspired by the mythology, history and terrain of the Mediterranean, these Trompetta bracelets in 18K yellow gold with enamel and diamond accents are well suited to be worn singly or stacked (the more the better these days!). miseno www.misenousa.com

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CORNELIS HOLLANDER

It has to be a Cornelis Hollander...

Triangular Cut

3.00 carat

E, Si2 GIA

4151 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale AZ 85251

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480-423-5000 800-677-6821

www.CornelisHollander.com

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True Blue Just because it’s a deep rich blue color in a show-stopping 18K white gold necklace with diamonds doesn’t mean that it is a blue sapphire! Indeed, Gumuchian, an innovator in jewelry design used another age-old blue gem in this Gallop necklace: South African kyanite beads, cut into oval, flat shapes. The necklace drapes across the neck much like a scarf would and can be adapted to different necklace silhouettes as well.

Gumuchian www.gumuchian.com

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Designer Heather Moore has become closely associated with message jewelry that can be personalized with initials, dates, special phrases etc. But there’s always room for a covert message. This latest 18K ring has many classical elements, including a hidden compartment. The ring swings open revealing a crevice where a handwritten (love) note can be inserted. Notice another secret element: diamonds decorating the inside of the ring. www.heathermoorejewelry.com

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©2014 Buddha Mama. All rights reserved.

HEATHER MOORE www.heathermoorejewelry.com

Gran Style Up-and-coming designer Brady Legler claims as his chief muse and inspiration, Lou Legler, his Italian grandmother who was a high fashion model from the 1940s to 1960s. Her credo was, “Never blend in, find something you like, and add something of yourself to it. Style is not buying designer head to toe, style is taking something and making it yours.” The designer took that advice to heart in this 18K yellow gold bracelet with diamonds. brady legler www.bradylegler.com

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Walk as if you are kissing the Earth with your feet.

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Š2014 Buddha Mama. All rights reserved.

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BUDDHA

Buddha Mama donates a portion of proceeds monthly to local charities. buddhamama.com dakota@buddhamama.com

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Magnetic Personality As stunning as it is interesting, this magnetite jade pendant is set in 20K gold accented with black diamonds. Besides making a dramatic statement, the magnetite jade actually is magnetic, much like what the ancients called “lodestone.”

Buddha Mama jewelry is a handmade jewelry line inspired

by Buddhist and Eastern traditions. A portion of the proceeds are donated to Kristi House and Zen Village.

BUDDHA MAMA www.buddhamama.com

“Miss” Much A woman’s prerogative may be to change her mind, a quality that Swiss brand Bovet embodies in this Miss Audrey timepiece. Part of the brand’s legendary Amadeo collection, Miss Audrey can be worn as a wristwatch, a pocket watch, a table clock or a pendant watch all easily convertible without any tool. The 36-millimeter stainless steel case houses an automatic mechanical movement. The turquoise dial features guilloché engraving and is accented with 60 round diamonds on the bezel. The leather strap is colored in the exact shade of the dial.

BOVET www.bovet.com

Blue Tie Known for their lavish and colorful archives of gemstones, Syna Jewels is truly extravagant in this pair of 18K gold and blackened sterling silver Baubles cufflinks. The basic black of the onyx is offset by the deep royal blue found in its blue diamond accents. They are sure to be showstoppers at any formal ball or dinner.

SYNA JEWELS www.synajewels.com

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DANIEL BASS

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Trellis Effect Diva Jewelry truly lives up to its moniker. In this dramatic orchid cuff bracelet handcrafted in 20K rose and 18K white gold, a trellis-like effect shows off the natural fancy pink diamonds blooming all over. The result? Red carpet treatment every time this masterpiece graces the wrist.

DIVA JEWELRY www.divanewyork.com

Queen of the Nile One of the biggest sources of inspiration for Gianmaria Buccellati is ancient Egypt where the cuff bracelet represented the unbreakable bond between a man and a woman. In this case, the woman is no less than Cleopatra, the legendary queen. The 18K cuff is engraved with the iconic engravings that the Italian Maison is so renowned for. An added bonus is a Swiss made quartz watch with mother-ofpearl dial. A timepiece worthy of royalty.

BUCCELLATI www.buccellati.com

White Design When you are Audemars Piguet at the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking, the usual is never the case. Using the DNA derived in its iconic Royal Oak Offshore, the brand has fashioned an elegant women’s version in 18K pink gold. The leaner version of this heritage look features white high tech ceramic details as well as a diamond-bedecked bezel and crown. The contrast of the cool white and the warm, blush colored gold is a striking example of how subtlety of design is an ultimate sophistication.

AUDEMARS PIQUET www.audemarspiquet.com

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The Auroras Nature’s Cosmic Jewels |

by Andrew Siskind

For as long as mankind has lived near the planet’s pole, we have been awestruck and inspired by the dancing lights of the Auroras. It’s ephemeral ribbons of green and blue, with the occasional...

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flashes of other colors, fill the night skies in these far northern and southern regions, treating inhabitants and visitors to nightly hypnotic light shows as they slowly move in the thermo-sphere like silk scarves in an imperceptible wind. The startlingly psychedelic color combinations have provided rich creative fodder for generations of artists and designers, who have tried to capture the brilliance and energy of the aurora.

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Named for the Roman Goddess of the Dawn, the Aurora is actually the result of the collision of charged particles from the magnetosphere and solar wind with atoms in the thermosphere, and the unseen wind that animates it is the Earth’s own magnetic field. The endless stream of particles emitted by our sun, the “solar wind�, interacts with atoms in our atmosphere to release the photons which create the auroral display.

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Over the course of human history, the Auroras have been interpreted in many ways. Vikings believed they were the light reflecting off the armor of supernatural warriors, and in the middle ages they were commonly thought to be a sign from God. Even Benjamin Franklin weighed in, theorizing that they were the result of an interaction between atmospheric electricity and the ice and snow in the polar regions. It wasn’t until astrophysicist Joan Feynman

used data from the Explorer 33 Spacecraft in 1970 that the true mechanism behind the Aurora was discovered.

Whatever their origins, the Auroras have always fascinated and inspired mankind, providing a brilliant display of light and color in the night sky to excite and dazzle the imagination. u

THE AURORAS

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Relax in one of our elegantly decorated 428 rooms and suites, featuring the perfect balance of traditional Parisian style and contemporary design and enjoy the magnificent views over Paris. “le First, restaurant boudoir paris” invites to taste authentic and inventive cuisine, in an elegant setting designed by Jacques Garcia.

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by Nancy Pier Sindt

Georges Seurat created masterpieces using tiny dots of pigment. Some of today’s most notable jewelers use a similar technique, but their materials of choice are rainbows of gemstones.

The availability of huge varieties of gemstones is vital for jewelers, who scour the world for their precious materials.When referring to gemstones, few use the term ‘semi-precious.’ It is true that some stones are rarer than others and can command higher prices, but to a designer each gem is nature’s masterpiece and should be valued for its beauty, color and individuality.

Multicolored boulder opals freefall from a setting of diamonds and green tasvorites. Paula Cresvoshay.

Modern Masters

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The ‘Poppy’ brooch by Paula Crevoshay is the designer’s symbol of sleep, dreams and peace. It was part of the Garden of Light exhibit at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History.

Gemstones include moonstone, black and white diamonds and opal.

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The whimsical ‘Pink Lady’ pendant is made of tsavorite, pink spinel, ruby, opal and natural alabone pearl set in 18-karat gold. Paula Crevoshay.

The cool combination of purple and blue is a modern classic in these earrings of amethyst, iolite and chalcedony accented with diamonds. Antonini.

Today’s designers pick and choose the colors that resonate with them and combine them in a variety of cuts and tonalities to create singular pieces. Explaining how they choose the gems they use, their answers were as varied as their work. “The weirder, the wackier and the rarer it is, the better,” says Jeff Feero at Alex Sepkus, New York. Sepkus, known for his textural gold designs, creates both one-of-akind pieces using large colored gems as well as tonal designs blending several different stones. Favorite gems include

mandarin garnet, red spinels and fine jades. Of the popular designs combining several shades of sapphire, Feero says, “The most magic is in the harmony of color.”

Also opting for the rarest of gemstones, but interpreting them in a “seriously playful yet flirtatiously determined” manner is DeGrisogono designer Fawaz Gruosi, based in Geneva. His creations include one-of-a-kind jewels as well as a boutique collection using rainbows of gems, such as amethyst, pink and green tourmaline, turquoise and rubellite.

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Alex Sepkus, ring featuring a yellow beryl accented with purple sapphires and white diamonds in 18-k yellow gold.

Sergio Antonini, designer for Antonini, Milan, says he likes to combine colors and combinations that “change the classical look into something very contemporary.” He says he is also conscious of women’s skin tones and color preferences.

“When I design, I always keep in mind the different complexions and looks of women, so for each collection we usually create two different palettes, a cold and a warm.”

Current favorites include the Porto Cervo collection, with rodochrosite, pink quartz, milky white agate and smoky quartz. All of these

One-of-d-kind ‘Melody of Color’ cocktail ring is centered by a cushion-cut and accented with amethysts and spinels set in pink, 18-karat gold.

DeGrisosogono.

‘Melody Color Drop’ earrings from deGrisogono combine rods of turquoise with amethysts and diamonds in a white gold setting.

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... formerly a painter, Paula Crevoshay creates museum-quality jewelry, using the “color theory” to choose her gem combinations.

Paula Crevoshay’s intricate ‘intarsia’ gemstone mosaic is accented with amethyst and apatite.

Background “Prismatic Colour Wheel” illustration based on: Moses Harris, The natural system of colours, London [c.1785], pl.[2]

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DeGrisogogno’s tonal drop earrings pair pink tourmaline with rubellites.

works are accented by diamonds and rose gold, emphasizing the warm palette. Another cool-toned new look mixes blue sapphires, moonstones, peridot and aquamarine.

An artist known for exotic colored gemstones is Paula Crevoshay of Albuquerque, New Mexico. A former painter, Crevosshay creates museum-quality jewelry, using the “color theory” to choose her gem combinations. “I begin at the center of a jewel with a singular gemstone and work from the middle outward,” she explains. Among her notable choices are garnets, opals and sapphires of many colors and

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unusual gems such as apatite, tsavorite, zircon and spinel.

To better frame her gems, Crevoshay sometimes marries precious metals in varying tones.

She refers to her creations as ‘painted jewels’ and notes that centuries ago, when Michelangelo was complimented on his painting, he responded that he was ‘not a painter, but a jeweler.’ u

MODERN MASTERS

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Proudly Made in Italy

The Garavelli family continues its traditional approach to fine jewelry – one that has been infused with modernism since 1920

by Carol Besler

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n a world of consolidation and big global brands, there are still a handful of small, artisanal family owned companies in Italy’s jewelry making regions that defy the corporate trend to consolidate and outsource. Yet they reign supreme as the makers of some of the world’s most unique, handcrafted jewelry, often setting the trends for the rest of the world. Garavelli, a family owned enterprise based in Valenza in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy, is one of those companies.

Garavelli was founded in 1920 by Mario Garavelli, a jeweler whose mission was to combine the principles of high craftsmanship with the styles of the day. “The spirit of the brand has always been to follow the fashions of the runways, transforming

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the styles, colors and trends into precious gems,” says Elisabetta Molina Valerani, the great-granddaughter of the founder. “Instead of just providing classic jewelry, his goal was to give women a fashion accessory, something that makes them unique and original. The look is based on colors and forms but the working technique is definitely traditional with personal craftsmanship and great attention to details.”

Elisabetta and her brother, Stefano Molina, a Gemological Institute of America graduate gemologist, now run the firm, representing the fourth generation to uphold this principle. The company, one of the first of the Italian jewelers to expand in Europe and to America, has maintained its “made in Italy” mystique, holding crafts-

manship and design above all else.

“Garavelli is the name of our family.

For generations, jewelry-making has been our art and our life, spent among gold, diamonds, precious stones, luxury and excellence,” says Elisabetta. “Today, it’s easy to hide behind a brand name. Once they are stamped by an illustrious brand, many products fail to exude their history… the passion behind it all! How could we hide the passion that was infused in our souls by our ancestors? To this day, all of our collections are created by us, the stones are personally and individually hand-picked, then set in metal by our in-house team of setters, whom we trust will deliver to our exacting standards.”

Among the latest collections is Bold

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Rings from the Garavelli Dune collection, in 18k gold hammered by hand and set with diamonds and gemstones.

The Diva pendant from Garavelli, in 18k yellow gold with natural brown diamonds.

From the Coil on the Rocks collection from Garavelli, with smoky quartz and brown diamonds.

Gold, an avant garde style of rings that are shaped to resemble faces, set with pavé diamonds. Coil on the Rocks is a new collection of jewelry with smoky quartz and brown diamonds or turquoise and white diamonds. The Coil collection of circular designs set with combinations of black, white and brown diamonds is iconic. Clients include Michele Obama, who owns a beautiful pavé diamond rose brooch, and Celine Dion, who wears a pair of Garavelli eternity earrings. But anyone can buy Garavelli jewels from an authorized retailer.

Coiled bracelets set with diamonds from the Garavelli Coil collection.

Selection and quality of stones, finishing and setting are just a few of the important operations carried out entirely by hand at the Garavelli workshops. Diamonds are minimum G-color and VS quality, and personally checked by Stefano. Many of the colored gemstones are custom cut by Garavelli. The precious and the semiprecious stones and the prime material, gold, are always controlled and of high quality.

All the collections are designed and produced exclusively in Italy.

“Today, it seems that everything has

to be produced faster and faster with fewer human interventions,” says Elisabetta. “But we take the opposite view. We delight at the sight of someone taking all the time it requires to make things properly. The value of a jewel is not only the result of the precious materials used in its production, but of the time and experienced work of our craftsmen, acquired through a lifetime of work. The designer and the polishers, the stone setters and the rhodium platers of the Garavelli factory are all represented in the essence of each jewel produced.” u

Garavelli collections are available worldwide. For informations visit www.garavellialdo.it spring/summer 2014 33

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Haute Horlogerie

TEAM : Photography : Thomas Claisse @AlmaKarina Agency Art Direction : Karina Rikun @ AlmaKarina Agency

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Cartier

Ballon Blanc de Cartier

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De Grisogono

Sugar

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Jaeger LeCoultre

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Rendez-Vous Night & Day Wild

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Chopard

White Gold Watch from High Jewelry Collection

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Vacheron Constantin

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Patrimony Traditionelle High Jewelry Small Model

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Chaumet

Chaumet Hortensia Collection

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Piaget

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Rose Passion Watch

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Van Cleef & Arpels

Pavot MystĂŠrieux High Jewelry Timepiece

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Chaumet

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Hortensia Montres Haute Joallerie

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Patek Philippe

Gondolo Haute Joaillerie

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Chaumet

Hortensia Montres Haute Joallerie

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Patek Philippe

Gondolo Haute Joaillerie

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Diamonds in Flight

by Carol Besler

The Aurora Butterfly of Peace The diamonds are shown under UV light.

Photo by Robert Weldon. © Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Reprinted by permission.

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ost people know of diamonds as colorless stones that have become iconic as an expression of one’s love for another. But there are other mysterious and beautiful diamonds that exist in every color of the rainbow.

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Diamonds of color have existed since diamonds were first discovered in India 3,000 years ago with the deep blue Hope Diamond being the most famous in history. Natural color diamonds have emerged from the shadows in the last

30 years through auctions and museum exhibitions, and now have become the most expensive gems on the planet, due to the scarcity of some colors and strong consumer demand. Incredible light return combined with the presence of highly continued on page 51

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Oscar Heyman gold, platinum and fancy colored diamond bracelet

The fancy deep-blue diamond is set in a ‘Trombino’ ring made

by Bulgari. The extremely rare fancy deep-blue diamond weighing 5.30 carats sold at Bonhams Fine Jewellery sale in London’s New Bond Street on April 24, 2013.

Image courtesy of BONHAMS LTD.

A three-stone colored diamond ring, by Bulgari, with a fancy vivid blue diamond weighing approximately 2.03 carats, a fancy vivid purplish-pink diamond, weighing approximately 1.51 carats, and a fancy vivid yellow diamond, weighing approximately 1.47 carats. The ring is part of the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction to be held May 14 in Geneva. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2014

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The Aurora Butterfly of Peace, a collection of 240 fancy color diamonds arranged and curated by Alan Bronstein.

Photo by Robert Weldon. Š Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Reprinted by permission.

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A nice example of yellow and cognac diamonds from the Italian jewelry designer LoSi

saturated color is a big draw for connoisseurs of colored diamonds.

Natural colored diamonds are rare and therefore unique. The most readily available natural colored diamonds on the market are champagnes, cognacs and yellows. Yet even these are rare: for every colored diamond found, there are at least 10,000 colorless ones. Pinks, blues and greens are the hardest to find, and therefore most in demand. Pinks are especially prized. Most of them are mined by Rio Tinto at its Argyle mine in the remote east Kimberley region of Western Australia, and tendered at annual auctions to the highest bidders. Dealers from around the world bid for the gems, and while final prices paid for individual stones remain confidential, Argyle will say that pink diamonds are known to command prices of

up to $400,000 per carat – twenty-times the price of equivalent white diamonds, due to rarity and market demand.

Beautifully cut gemstones and the many exquisite jewelry designs that are created are a medium of art that has seldom been described as such till recently.

Especially when we look at jewels from the last 100 years that have evolved in the Beaux Arts period, Art Deco and Art Nouveau, we begin to see the integration and use of colored diamonds.

The awareness of colored diamonds continues to reach the public as is represented by works such as the Aurora Butterfly of Peace now on exhibition at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County. This novel artwork comprised of unset diamonds was collected and organized over a twelve-year period to be

an avant-garde expression of one of nature’s most beloved creatures. It provides one of the few public exhibitions of the spectrum of diamond colors existing in nature. It also has a quality that makes many of the stones exhibit a supernatural glow when exposed to ultraviolet light; a phenomenon that adds to their mystery and captivating allure. While there are 240 movable parts (all the stones sit loose on a pad) with 167 carats of diamonds, the true goal is to look at the whole rather than the sum of the parts. After the butterfly has made its aesthetic impression, one begins to notice the purples and blues and pinks and oranges among the other varieties that must be a new experience for anyone except the highly initiated.

The Aurora Butterfly of Peace is a lesson in nature through art. The collecspring/summer 2014 51

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The Hallucination watch by Graff Diamonds, set with more than 110 carats of exceptionally rare fancy colored diamonds. It is valued at $55-million. Â

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The Orange, the largest fancy vivid orange diamond in the world, sold at a recent Christie's auction for US$35.5-million, a world record for an orange diamond and a world auction record price per carat for any diamond, at US$2.4 million per carat. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2014

tion has been exhibited at the Smithsonian and other museums, and is currently on display in the Hixon Gem Vault at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles.

It will be on display until June 1, 2014.

NHMLA curator Eloïse Gaillou says: “What an art-piece! Honestly, no photo can do it justice. You know how great a single diamond looks. Now, imagine 240 of them, all of different colors. And arranged in a butterfly shape. It is just extraordinary!”

Today, one can see many magnificent colored diamonds in jewelry stores across the world. They have become a selective

market for individuals looking for something original and different from the mass market. Their availability is relatively limited compared to their dominant colorless cousins. Some of the most outstanding and classic jewelry illustrates how colored diamonds have been presented as jewels.

The variety of styles today is endless. 

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Forever In Bloom

Glass Flowers at the Harvard Museum of Natural History

by Stuart Leuthner

Jacaranda filicifolia, model 550 by Rudolf and Leopold Blaschka, 1895. Specimen for model was obtained in Castleton Garden, Jamaica. Š President and Fellows, Harvard College.

H

arvard's Museum of Natural History is home to the Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants, popularly known as the Glass Flow-

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ers. Crafted from 1887 though 1936 at the Blaschka's studio in Dresden, Germany, the collection of more than 4,400 models is one of Boston's most famous attractions

attracting more than 200,000 visitors annually. Blooming year round, the Glass Flowers are a tribute to Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka's mastery of science and art.

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Glass Ornaments and Glass Eyes Visitors who attended London's Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations in 1851, marveled at more than 13,000 exhibits including scientific instruments, steel-making displays, Samuel Colt's revolvers, the largest known diamond, the world's first public flush toilets (which they paid a penny to use), the precursor to today's fax machine and an assortment of colorful glass beads and buttons manufactured by the firm of Blaschka & Sons of Liebenau, Bohemia.

Originally from Venice, the Blaschkas

could trace their lineage of jewelers and glassmakers as far back as the fifteenth century. Born in 1822, Leopold Blaschka grew up in what is now the Czech Republic, an area known for the production of decorative glass and jewelry. After serving his apprenticeship with a goldsmith and gem cutter, he joined the family business and was soon crafting glass ornaments and glass eyes for humans and taxidermy.

In 1853, following the death of his wife and father, Leopold began to experi-

Enlarged model of an Oxalis flower with a sweat bee visitor. A portion of the flower is removed to show the position of the insect's body in relation to the stamens and styles.

Model 780 by Rudolf Blaschka, 1936. Š President and Fellows, Harvard College.

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ment with glass facsimiles of flowers inspired by illustrations in natural history books. His work came to the attention of Prince Camille de Rohan, an amateur horticulturist who commissioned Leopold to create 100 glass orchids. After his first wife's death, Leopold remarried and his son Rudolf was born in 1857. That same year Leopold moved his family to Dresden and when Rudolf was in his early twenties, he joined his father in the workshop.

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Natural History Artisans Although they were both involved with the entire creative process, Leopold preferred working with the larger pieces of glass and assembling the components while Rudolf concentrated on the intricate details and painting. Although many assumed the Blaschkas had developed secret methods to produce their models, the techniques they employed were no different than those practiced by glassworkers of the period. The individual parts were shaped after the glass was softened by heat. Some models were blown glass. Colored glass was used for many, while others were “cold painted” with a thin wash of colored ground glass or metal oxide(s) and heated until the material fused to the model.

During a visit to their workshop, George Goodale, head of the Harvard Botanical Museum, observed “The mold-

ing of the shapes is effected by means of ordinary pincers and tweezers. With these clumsy tools they fashion the flat plates and turn them in any way they please.

With little needles fastened in handles, they make the grooves and lines and figurings of the edges. But although you may see him touch a flat piece of glass with his little metallic tools, you know that it is no ordinary touch which suddenly shapes it into a living form.”

In an article in the Journal of American Conservation, Rika Smith McNally and Nancy Buschini noted, “The glass flowers are not made simply of glass. Many are painted (particularly models made in the years 1886-95) and varnished; some parts are glued together, and some of the models contain wire armatures within the glass stems. Coloring of the models ranges from paint to colored glass to enameling.”

When Leopold was asked to describe their methods, he explained, “We are natural history artisans. We have tact. My son Rudolf has more than I have, because he is my son, and tact increases in every generation.” Leopold died in 1895, but Rudolf continued to produce models for Harvard until 1936, when he retired. Three years later, Rudolf Blaschka died. Working alone, without the help of apprentices, the Blaschkas left very few notes and although many have tried, nobody has been able to duplicate their ingenuity and delicacy.

Mary Lee Ware traveled to Dresden in 1928. Watching Rudolf, now seventyone working in his studio she wrote, “His movements are quiet, deft, soft in laying down or taking up where speed or a miscalculated movement might ruin the work of hours. It all leaves you breathless that anyone can and will do such work.”

Red maple, Acer rubrum, model 726 by Rudolf Blaschka, 1906. It took Rudolf nearly a decade to perfect the brilliant autumn red colors in the glass enamel used to color the glass leaves. © President and Fellows, Harvard College.

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Malayan pitcher plant, nepenthe maxima, model 721 by Rudolf Blaschka, 1906.

Photo by Hillel Burger, © President and Fellows, Harvard College.

Glass flowers case. A “garden” of 3,200 glass models of flowering plants created by Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka between 1886 and 1936, are on display at the Harvard Museum of Natural History.

Photo by Nate Dean. © President and Fellows, Harvard College.

Harvard and the Glass Flowers In 1880, the father and son duo produced 131 models of sea slugs, jellyfish and other marine creatures for the Boston Society of Natural History (now the Museum of Science). Dr. George Lincoln Goodale, in the process of setting up the Harvard Botanical Museum, was convinced the Blaschkas could duplicate plants with the same realism they demonstrated with the sea creatures. During a visit to their Dresden workshop, Dr. Goodale saw several of Leopold's orchids and convinced the artisans to build several different species of plants for the Botanical Museum.

Although the first model plants sent to the U.S. were badly damaged by heavyhanded customs agents, Leopold and Rudolf's genius was obvious. Elizabeth C. Ware, the wealthy widow of a physician who attended Harvard, and her daughter, Mary Lee Ware offered to fund a longterm contract for the Blaschkas to produce a series of models of plants for the museum.

Between 1887 and 1936, the Blaschkas provided the Harvard Museum of

Natural History with approximately 4,300 individual glass models. These include life-size models representing 780 species and varieties of plants as well as models of details such as enlargements of plant parts and anatomical sections. To insure the models arrived in one piece, the packages were shipped directly to Harvard and unpacked under the watchful eyes of a custom agent. The method the Blaschkas fashioned to pack the fragile flowers was described by Dr. Goodale as “almost as wonderful as anything about them.”

Leopold and Rudolf were extremely prolific. The number and quantity of models the Blaschkas made and sold are staggering. Harvard's glass flowers are one-of-a-kind creations.

Leopold Blaschka, 1822-1895, courtesy, Blaschka archives, Harvard University Herbaria.

The Ware Collection of Glass Models is located at the Harvard Museum of Natural History, 26 Oxford Street, Cambridge, on the Harvard campus. For more information visit www.hmnh.harvard.edu.  Rudolf Blaschka, 1857-1939, courtesy, Blaschka archives, Harvard University Herbaria. spring/summer 2014 57

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Indochine Redux

Photographs and Story by Alan Sloyer

“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” Susan Sontag

H

aving traveled to 70 countries, my mind went on overdrive when my oldest child revealed he would be transporting his security trading expertise and himself, from the Big Apple to the far side of the planet, to Hong Kong.

Vietnam and Cambodia were coun-

tries on “the list” and were easily combined with a visit to our son’s new home in Hong Kong.

In Vietnam, we of course wanted to learn about how the Vietnamese perceived the Americans more than 30 years after the wars’ end. Uniformly, we were warmly welcomed visitors

although we had an eye-opening experience upon visiting the “American Atrocities Museum” in Ho Chi Minh City. It was a blunt reminder of our role in the ravages of a terrible war.

Much progress has been made over the years, and Vietnam is now a very cosmopolitan locale. We met the

Ta Prohm Temple-Siam Reap, Cambodia

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Ta Prohm Temple- Siam Reap, Cambodia

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Ta Prohm Temple- Siam Leap, Cambodia

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Lamma Island-Hong Kong

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Sung Sot Cave- Halong Bay, Vietnam Wong Tai Sin Temple- Hong Kong

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Ha Long Bay- Vietnam

designer who orchestrated the installation of Polo Ralph Lauren in Hanoi, the second Polo Ralph Lauren location in the country after Ho Chi Minh City. All the upscale retailers have arrived and set up shop.

A highlight of our visit to Vietnam was an excursion to Ha Long Bay a UNESCO World Heritage Site consisting of a dense cluster of some 1,600 limestone monolithic islands each topped with thick jungle vegetation. They rise spectacularly from the ocean. Several of the islands are hollow, with enormous spectacular grot-

tos containing large and numerous stalactites and stalagmites.

In Cambodia we focused our visit on Siam Reap, the gateway to Angkor Wat and the surrounding temple complexes. The temple complexes have also been designated a UN Heritage Site and consist of hundreds of structures from the 9th to the 14th century that tell the story of the rise and fall of the Khmer empire.

No photo can do justice to the Khmer temples of the Angkor complex. Lists of adjectives can’t either: stunning, humbling, awe inspiring,

spiritual or magical; all are inadequate to describe the succession of unforgettable experiences. When the morning light washes over the overgrown temples and ruins of Angkor Wat, a simple Siem Reap sunrise becomes a profound experience. We were especially impressed with the Ta Prohm temple complex, a mystical site, because of the Banyan trees that are destroying the temple while simultaneously adding to its intense beauty. The movie, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider starring Angelina Jolie was filmed there. u

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