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Seamlessly joined strands of 18k rose gold combine to form the Helioro ring. The rings range from classically simple to full pavé set diamonds, from $1,095 (not shown). Helioro Pendants available on La Catena necklace or on a silk cord, from $3,745.

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Robbins Brothers Houston, Dallas, Southern California 800-610-Ring – Jeffrey Mann Fine Jewelers Toledo, OH 419-882-6994 Costello Jewelry Naperville, IL 630-355-1311 – Charleston Alexander Diamond Importers Falls Church, VA 800-419-Gems Goldstock Jewelers Pittsburgh, PA 412-281-1789 – Blasé DeNatale Jewelers Forked River, NJ 609-693-5068 – Fords Jewelers Fords, NJ 732-738-7322 Sergio’s Jewelers Ellicott City, MD 410-461-4400 – Steve Padis Jewelry San Francisco, CA 415-626-8288 – T-Bird Jewels Las Vegas, NV 702-256-3900 Aires Jewelers Morris Plains, NJ 973-292-0950 – Family & Co. Jewelers Marlton, NJ 856-983-6337 – J. Brooks Salt Lake City, UT 801-266-4747 New Star Jewelers Joliet, IL 815-741-8502 – Milanj Diamonds King of Prussia, PA 610-992-0707 – Adlers Jewelers Westfield, NJ 908-233-6900 Crowley’s Edmonton/Alberta 866-477-2400 – Komara Jewelers Canfield, OH 330-793-9048 – Preusser Jewelers Grand Rapids, MI 616-458-1425 Lewis Jewelers Ann Arbor, MI 734-994-5111 – Benolds Jewelers Austin, TX 512-452-6491 – H.L. Gross & Bro. Garden City, NY 516-747-6666 Astrein Jewelers Birmingham, MI 248-644-1651 – Lugaro Jewellers West Vancouver 604-925-2043 – Martin & Martin Inc. Oak Lawn, IL 708-423-0200 Alberts Diamond Jewelers Schererville, IN 219-322-2700 – Robert C. Wesley Jewelers Scottsdale, AZ 480-947-2416 EclatCover101.indd 2

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Robbins Brothers Houston, Dallas, Southern California 800-610-Ring – Jeffrey Mann Fine Jewelers Toledo, OH 419-882-6994 Costello Jewelry Naperville, IL 630-355-1311 – Charleston Alexander Diamond Importers Falls Church, VA 800-419-Gems Goldstock Jewelers Pittsburgh, PA 412-281-1789 – Blasé DeNatale Jewelers Forked River, NJ 609-693-5068 – Fords Jewelers Fords, NJ 732-738-7322 Sergio’s Jewelers Ellicott City, MD 410-461-4400 – Steve Padis Jewelry San Francisco, CA 415-626-8288 – T-Bird Jewels Las Vegas, NV 702-256-3900 Aires Jewelers Morris Plains, NJ 973-292-0950 – Family & Co. Jewelers Marlton, NJ 856-983-6337 – J. Brooks Salt Lake City, UT 801-266-4747 New Star Jewelers Joliet, IL 815-741-8502 – Milanj Diamonds King of Prussia, PA 610-992-0707 – Adlers Jewelers Westfield, NJ 908-233-6900 Crowley’s Edmonton/Alberta 866-477-2400 – Komara Jewelers Canfield, OH 330-793-9048 – Preusser Jewelers Grand Rapids, MI 616-458-1425 Lewis Jewelers Ann Arbor, MI 734-994-5111 – Benolds Jewelers Austin, TX 512-452-6491 – H.L. Gross & Bro. Garden City, NY 516-747-6666 Astrein Jewelers Birmingham, MI 248-644-1651 – Lugaro Jewellers West Vancouver 604-925-2043 – Martin & Martin Inc. Oak Lawn, IL 708-423-0200 Alberts Diamond Jewelers Schererville, IN 219-322-2700 – Robert C. Wesley Jewelers Scottsdale, AZ 480-947-2416 03_05TOC_Ads.indd 3

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Table of

Contents

Winter/Spring 2013

No. 101

ALESSIO BOSCHI 10 ALEX SOLDIER 20 Turning Jewelry into Art

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GERMAN EXPRESSIONISM Masterpieces from the Neue Galerie Collection

30 SPECTRUM SPECTACULAR An award-winning jewelry collection showcases the beauty of natural colored gemstones

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Second Time Around Buying and Selling Jewelry at Auction

The Art 40 of Scent at THE the FOOTSTEPS Museum of OF Arts THE and Design by Andrew Siskind

45 ÉCLAT is published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the February/March issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ÉCLAT at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

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EDITOR'S OUTLINE

What a delight it was working on this early spring issue, and seeing a preview of the vibrancy and color that is right around the corner. We hope you enjoy our selections for this issue – both the exciting pieces of jewelry that caught our eye and the intriguing subjects that excited our editorial staff.

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Alessio Boschi is an artist and a storyteller whose medium is jewelry rendered in a kaleidoscopic palette. The magic of his pieces lies not only in the exquisite workmanship but in the narrative attached to each creation.

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Ahead of his contemporaries, legendary artist, Alex Soldier continues to lead the way by implementing his innovative genius, intricate metalwork and bold aesthetic to turn jewelry into art.

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German Expressionism 1900-1930: Masterpieces from the Neue Galerie Collections, seeks to clarify an artistic movement whose influences are as myriad as its legacy is far reaching. Learn more about this German Expressionist movement.

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The beauty of natural colored gemstones is featured in the story Spectrum Spectacular. Top jewelry designers from across North America enter a competition known as the Spectrum Awards, which celebrate the beauty of colored gemstones. The entries represent jewelry featuring prized gemstones in creative and original designs.

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Second Time Around, Buying and Selling Jewelry at Auction, introduces us to the thriving secondary market for jewelry. Precious gems and metals that are intrinsic to fine jewelry tend to remain valuable over the years.

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The Art of Scent is a new cutting edge exhibit at the Museum of Arts and Design in Manhattan that proves that scent itself can be put on display in a museum setting. The museum has created an outstanding sensory experience outlined in the story, allowing attendees to don the scents themselves and thus fully participate in the exhibit experience.

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Salkantay Trail, rising from an elevation of 11,000 feet, up to the Salkantay Pass of over 15,000 feet, is a backbreaking 7 day grueling hike towards the jeweled Inca ruins of Machu Pichuu. The hike became a trip of discovery, both physical and spiritual.

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Winter/Spring 2013

No. 101

our team PUBLISHER Bertram Kalisher

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Jay Lazar

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Carol Besler Lorraine DePasque Bertram Kalisher Jeff Prine Andrew Siskind Hannah M. Zweifler

PRODUCTION OFFICE Lazar Advertising & Marketing 222 West 37 St., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212-889-9660 e-mail: chronos@lazaradv.com

PARIS OFFICE AlmaKarina Agency Thomas Claisse and Karina Rikun 36 rue Fabert 75007 Paris, France +33(7)60461213 contact@almakarina.com

ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia

ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind

EXECUTIVE OFFICE Editorial Advertising Circulation 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 Tel: 516-295-2516 Fax: 516-374-5060

ÉCLAT is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc. 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in ÉCLAT. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts.

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ALESSIO BOSCHI by Carol Besler

Alessio Boschi’s sculpted treasures reveal a world of magic that goes beyond technical precision

The Aquarius earrings feature sea creatures and bunches of coral embellished by a variety of gems that are visible under the re ection of custom-cut slices of semiprecious stones. Boschi experiments with different color combinations of larger quartz and topazes, contrasting with the more intense hues of coloured sapphires and diamonds. 10

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The Conch Pearl ring, with its outstanding hand carved conch shell, topped by a white akoya pearl, is surrounded by pink sapphires and diamonds. The gold work under the setting reveals a school of fish.

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lessio Boschi is an artist and a storyteller whose medium is jewelry, rendered in a kaleidoscopic palette. The magic of his pieces lies not only in the exquisite workmanship but in the narrative attached to each creation. “It is our belief that each piece should come with a story to be unveiled, which is the real soul of the jewel itself and a great point of distinction from other products,” says Boschi. His jewelry would be more appropriately described as sculpture than as “product.” Each has a three-dimensional quality, crafted to include secret hinged compartments with hidden symbols and treasures. “We are a little bit dramatic,” Boschi confesses, as he demonstrates the inner workings of the pink gold Atlas ring, with a center stone doublet of mother-of-pearl and quartz surrounded by white and champagne

diamonds. The Atlas of Greek mythology – the primordial Titan who held up the celestial sphere – is depicted on the shank, with six sculpted strongmen holding up the setting. Like a magician reaching the apex of a magic trick, Boschi turns the ring upside down to reveal the underside of the setting, engraved to mimic the coffered ceiling of the Pantheon, an homage to its classical architecture. Similarly, the Coral and Anemone rings flip over to reveal a school of swimming fish, punctuated by diamonds. Other pieces are fitted with hinged doors to reveal secret treasures or silly surprises – a gem-set door on the shank of the Casanova ring reveals a tiny semi-erotic sculpture of the famous ladies’ man in action. Winter/Spring 2013

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“I believe in communication, in sharing ideas and in a team work in order to create a passionate enthusiasm in the mutual strength to achieve a common objective: making a small piece of art in a more genuine jewelry world which will take our clients in a dream place and will enhance their intrinsic beauty,” says Boschi. His creations are characterized by the use of color, subtle hidden articulation and multi-functionality, which allows the jewel to be worn in different ways and for different occasions. The gem-set centerpiece of the Delfino necklace, for example, can be unclasped and worn as a brooch. “The hidden details lead to an imaginary journey in a playful way,” says Boschi.

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Since starting his business in 2010, Boschi has won five major international awards as a highend jewelry designer: the UBI design contest in September 2012 Hong Kong show, the CCTV China Design Competition, the CCTV Pearls & Colored Stones Association Award and the Bazaar Jewellery China Excellence of Design Award. The brand’s North American debut at the last Centurion Show in Scottsdale, Arizona in February, resulted in the Emerging Designer Prize. For further information please visit the website at http://www.alessioboschi.com/

The Delfino necklace is composed of 120 long, luscious strands of rare natural seed pearls from the Persian Gulf. The diamond and gem-studded focal piece, centered by a 10-carat silver moonstone, can be removed and worn as a brooch. Accent gems include white and black diamonds, blue sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines.

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The center stone of the 18k pink gold Atlas ring, a quartz/ mother-of-pearl doublet, is held in place by prongs sculpted in the form of the mythological strongman who held up the universe. Underneath, the gold is shaped in a coffered pattern, inspired by the ceiling of the Pantheon in Rome.

The Casanova ring, with a center aquamarine surrounded by Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds, is inspired by the architecture of Venice, and has a secret door. Inside, the famous ladies’ man is seen in action.

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Todd Reed www.toddreed.com

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Known for his imaginative and artful use of natural diamonds, designer Todd Reed creates a real flourish of natural beauty in this 18K gold and silver cuff bracelet. Adorning the subtly textured cuff are 5.90 carats of rose-cut, fancy colored diamonds that made this piece a show stopper either on—or off—the red carpet.

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What could be better than combining two of a girl’s best friends, diamonds and pearls? That’s precisely what Mastoloni, the veteran pearl supplier, has created in this pair of 18K gold and pave diamond disk earrings featuring drops of genuine South Sea pearls. The sparkle from the diamond’s reflection seems to dance on the luminous surface of the pearls. The combination is truly a match made in heaven.

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Every year the Pantone Color Institute picks one color that the color authority says sums up the year. For 2013, that color is Emerald (Pantone 17-5641), which "has a perception of being sophisticated and luxurious" as is the precious gemstone that bears its name. And if you want the finest in such diamonds and gemstones, head to Graff, which fashioned these statement earrings of 43.49 carats of emerald-cut emeralds along with 9.92 carats of multishaped diamond tops. These simple yet pure examples of the color emerald are sure to be show stoppers this year--and for hundreds of years hence.

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The craftsmanship found in the finest jewelry rivals that of any piece of fine art—as these examples testify to. The intrinsic value of precious gemstones and metals is further enhanced by the creativity of the jeweler, who envisions them as miniature, wearable masterpieces. These are treasures meant to be worn and adored.

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EB Horn Co. Boston, MA 617-542-3902 • Urbanowicz Jewelers McMurray, PA 724-942-9885 • Nelson Coleman Jewelers Towson, MD 410-494-0080 Adolf Jewelers Richmond, VA 804-285-3671 • The Precious Gem Williamsburg, VA 757-220-1115 • Morre-Lyons Jewelers Clifton, NJ 973-777-4329 Maertens Fine Jewelry Lusby, MD 410-394-3990 • Madison Park Jewelers Seattle, WA 206-325-1880 • David Fairclough Fine Jewelers Toledo, OH 419-843-8887 Kiefer Village Jewels Lutz, FL 813-909-2393 • Gregory Isbell Company Johnson City, TN 423-926-1108 • Levy’s Inc. Birmingham, AL 205-251-3381 Sollberger Jewelers Ridgeland, MS 601-853-1777 • Vincent Anthony Jewelers Tulsa, OK 918-291-9700 • Mona M. Jewelry Laredo, TX 956-726-1211 Doris McLendon Jewelers Ger mantown, TN 901-758-8605 • Dunlavy’s Huntsville, AL 256-539-1771 • Mollie B Harrisburg, PA 717-540-9040

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maD FoR moGuLs Experts in gemstones for generations, Syna Jewels has supplied amazing colored stones to some of the biggest names in fine jewelry. Yet the company has its own exquisite and exceptional gemstones like this 18K green chalcedony Mogul drop pendant that looks as if it emerged from one of the Indian Moguls’ treasure trove. sYNa Jewels www.synajewels.com

tie one on For a jewelry house that boasts “designed by women for women” what could be more appropriate than paying tribute to that most feminine of motifs, the bow? These “Bowlero” stud earrings from Gumuchian feature 98 round diamonds set in platinum and offer a fresh interpretation of a classic design found in nearly every woman’s wardrobe. GuMuchiaN www.gumuchian.com

PeaRL oF WisDom Expert attention to detail is a trademark of designer Alishan Halebian of Alishan Jewelry. This exceptional flower ring is a perfect example. The palladium ring features black and white diamonds surrounding a Tahitian pearl at its center, a glamorous specimen that makes a classic statement. Which is why the Palladium Alliance International recognized it as a second place winner in its international contest for outstanding jewelry designs featuring palladium. alishaN www.alishanonline.com

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Green with Envy Every season Pantone, the color authority, releases a color palette based upon the leading ready-to-wear designs of the season. Jewelry designer Jane Bohan takes a cue, fashioning her Spring 2013 collection around the colors, including a light green called “Tender Shoots” (Pantone 14-0446). Thus, spring-like greens can be seen best in this 18K necklace of tsavorite, prehnite and diamonds. Jane Bohan inc. www.Janebohan.com

Bubble Bauble Time for a toast! Or some other reason to break out the bubbly, only that doesn’t have to mean just champagne. Links of London celebrates in style with this pair of 18K gold minihoops from its Effervescence Collection. The handpicked freshwater mini-black pearls, suspended by an exquisitely crafted and delicate hoop, combine to create a timeless and enduring effect. Cheers! Links of London www.Linksoflondon.com

Fit to Be Tied Designer Dawn Muscio of D. Muscio Fine Jewelry Studio has created the ultimate in formal fashions. Going beyond the traditional black tie, she created this sandblasted palladium neckpiece with 38 beat-set white diamonds on the front of the bow with black diamonds set behind for added dimension. Muscio’s twist on a classic accessory—the bow tie—is designed to be worn by men or women. The creative and unusual neckwear recently received first place honors at the Palladium Alliance International’s recent “Biggest Jewelry Design Contest Ever.” D. Muscio Fine Jewelry Studio www.dmuscio.com 18

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The Colorful Side of Gemlok

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Alex Soldier Turning Jewelry into Art Ahead of his contemporaries, legendary artist Alex Soldier continues to lead the way by implementing his innovative genius, intricate metalwork and bold aesthetic.

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hether in explosive, colorful abstractions or representational works that capture the perfect delicacy of a single gesture, his creations express profound vibrancy, clarity and meaning. Alex Soldier designs with a passion for distinction, using innovative techniques for decorating metal surfaces to achieve an effect of original texture and detail that surpasses the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape,

color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer. Soldier’s remarkable genius has captured the hearts of leading style makers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time. Soldier's latest masterpiece- Anemone Coronaria presents a supreme integration of finest diamonds and rubies, finished with a 12.5 carat rubilite tourmaline set in his signature etched 18 karat white gold. Thanks to Soldier's jewelry-making magic, the piece can be worn as a brooch, pendant, ring or a cuff. In 2010, Alex Soldier completely revolutionized the

Photography by Michael Bernadsky Make-up & hair by Anastasia Durasova Model Daria Komarkova @ Major Post production by Artorik Location Alaric Flower Design Exceptional one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces allow the purest expression of Alex Soldier's imagination and virtuosity. The limited edition Sunflower Series brooch and earrings displays his keen sense of color. Precisely placed to achieve a subtle degrade effect, the color diamonds create a sunflower bloom that is stunningly lifelike in 18 karat yellow and rose gold, hand textured under microscope with unparalleled character and precision. It is a pure embodiment of luxury, grace and sophistication. The Sunflower brooch also offers an extension that converts this masterpiece into a necklace. Handmade in New York. Limited Edition. Price available upon request.

look of silver by introducing his Silver: Redefined collection. Today, his silver collection continues to grow in demand and innovation. Hand-made in his gallery in New York City, it bears the same precision, attention to detail, and fine craftsmanship as his precious pieces. By adding his signature aesthetic to each of his silver designs, Soldier gives new face to this noble metal and takes it to new level of style, beauty and value. Alex Soldier jewelry is available at select Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue department stores. For more information visit alexsoldier.com

Dark platinum and silver bangles: $500 each Dark platinum and silver cuff: $1,500 18k and silver snail ring with diamonds: $3,500 24k gold and silver pendant with rubies: $5,500

Anemone Coronaria Photography by Michael Bernadsky Make-up & hair styling by Anastasia Durasova Model Daria Komarkova @ Major Retouching by Artorik Location Alaric Flower Design Winter/Spring 2013

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German ExpressionisM 1900–1930

Masterpieces from the Neue Galerie Collection by Hannah M. Zweifler

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he mood of restlessness that defined the turn of the twentieth century helps to explain the force behind an art movement that otherwise defies simple definition. Spanning the first years of the century through the Nazis’ 1937 “Degenerate Art” exhibition, the German Expressionist movement coincided with not only a seemingly apocalyptic world war, but also with the rapid growth of the modern city, which brought with it both spectacle and unease, entertainment and alienation. “German Expressionism 1900-1930: Masterpieces from the Neue Galerie Collection” (February 7–April 22, 2013), made up of works that form the core of the museum’s collection, seeks to clarify an artistic movement whose influences are as myriad as its legacy is farreaching. The exhibition, housed in the third-floor galleries of the small, residence-like museum, is sorted into two groups: the exuberantly chromatic work of Die Brücke (The Bridge) and Der Blaue Reiter (The Blue Rider) artists in one, and the exaggerated realist portraits of the Neue Sachlichket (New Objectivity) artists in the other. While this division is in some ways arbitrary and, in many ways, an over-simplification of this stylistically diverse movement, it allows for a more aesthetically cohesive exhibition. Further, the individual works themselves are truly masterpieces.

ERNST LUDWIG KIRCHNER (1880-1938) Berlin Street Scene/Berlin Strassenszene, 1913-14 Oil on canvas Neue Galerie New York and Private Collection

The show’s first gallery is also its best: dimly lit with darkly painted walls, the early expressionist works—characterized by a 26

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symbolic use of color, dynamic brushwork, and graphic compositions—are really allowed to pop. Die Brücke (The Bridge), founded in Dresden in 1905, is represented here by Erich Heckel, Karl Schmidt-Rottluff, Emile Nolde and Ernst Ludwig Kirchner. The centerpiece of the gallery is a wall featuring three outstanding works by Kirchner: The Russian Dancer Mela

Wassily Kandinsky, Gabriele Münter and August Macke represent Der Blaue Reiter (The Blue Rider) in this first gallery. Founded in 1911 in Munich, Der Blaue Reiter preferred nature themes, with a tendency towards abstraction, as opposed to the strictly representational and sexualized urban motifs of Die Brücke. For example, Kandinsky’s Murnau Street with

VASILY KANDINSKY (1866-1944) Murnau: Street with Woman/ Murnau: Strasse mit Frauen, 1908 Oil on Cardboard This work is part of the collection of Estée Lauder and was made available through the generosity of Estée Lauder © Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris

(1911), Tightrope Walk (1908¬–10), and Berlin Street Scene (1913-14). The latter, in particular, with its callous pink street and forlorn figures demonstrates the Expressionists’ sordid vision of modern urbanity. Meanwhile, the mask-like faces in all three point to the Expressionist propensity for the ‘primitive’, a means of rejecting the materialistic modern industrial world. Hermann Max Pechstein’s “Young Woman With Red Fan” is another Die Brücke standout. The work’s jarring reds, yellows and greens, as well as its Japanese motif, highlight the influence of Henri Matisse and French Fauvism, which was developing simultaneously.

Women (1908) depicts the German village where he and his companion Münter bought a villa in the years before World War I. The painting’s yellow road, expressive color, and sweeping brushwork attest to how the vitality of the village inspired Kandinsky to return to the brush after a period working exclusively with the pallet knife. The work of Die Brücke and Der Blaue Reiter artists is continued in a small gallery down the hall featuring works on paper. Here, visitors will be taken with later, more abstracted works by Kandinsky, such as Red and Blue (1913) Winter/Spring 2013

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executed in watercolor and ink. The First Animals (1913), a gouache and pencil work by Franz Marc is also interesting. A study for a larger work (subsequently destroyed in a fire), this was the first in a series intended for an illustrated Bible, a project doomed by the onset of World War I. The subject matter is typical of Marc—the blue horse, in fact, his trademark—who viewed animals as pure and humans as evil. Watercolors by Paul Klee, such as On the Lawn (1923), and Hermann Max Pechstein, such as Seated Female Nude (1918) impress. An outstanding wall of Kirchner and Heckel woodblock prints of nudes remind us once again of the German Expressionist interest in ‘primitive’ art forms. A large gallery of New Objectivity works— most painted in the 1920s—offers a very different vision of German Expressionism. Although these artists intended their depictions of objective reality to challenge the abstracted, romantic nature of Die Brücke and Der Blaue Reiter, their works MAX BECKMANN (1884-1950) Self-Portrait with Horn/Selbstbildnis mit Horn, 1938 Oil on canvas Neue Galerie New York and Private Collection

FRANZ MARC The First Animals 1913 Gouache and pencil on paper Private Collection

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are expressive nonetheless. The caricature-like portraits by George Grosz and Otto Dix, such as Dix’s Portrait of the Lawyer Dr. Fritz Glasser (1921) serve to critique the industrialization and imperialism of contemporary Germany. This painting, in particular, with its depiction of a crumbling, vacant city, stereotypical Jewish physiognomy, and a man who sits as if on trial, eerily foretells the fate of Germany and its Jews. Indeed, these portraits’ exaggerated realism cut to the emotion and angst at the core of the German Expressionist movement.

easy classification: it fails to fit comfortably within either of the exhibition’s two groups. Still, it conjures up the restlessness that embodied the years of German Expressionism. What’s more, its emotional and compositional directness renders it a true German Expressionist masterpiece that is definitely worth seeing.

“German Expressionism 1900-1930: Masterpieces from the Neue Galerie Collection” is perhaps best summarized by Max Beckmann’s moody SelfPortrait with Horn (1938). Painted soon after fleeing Berlin for Amsterdam, the artist depicts himself wearing the stripes of a prisoner. His wrinkled face and ambiguous gesture contribute to the melancholy of this work. Like the German Expressionist movement itself, this painting denies

MAX PECHSTEIN Young Woman with Red Fan ca. 1910 This work is part of the collection of Estée Lauder and was made available through the generosity of Estée Lauder © 2013 Artist Rights Society (ARS), New York/Pechstein Hamburg/Toekendorf/VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn

German expressionism “German Expressionism 1900-1930: Masterpieces from the Neue Galerie Collection” is on view at the Neue Galerie in New York February 7–April 22, 2013

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SPECTRUM Pretty in Prediletto SPECTACULAR An award-winning jewelry collection showcases the beauty of natural colored gemstones by Carol Besler

Homeland's Morena Baccarin in jewelry from the 2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards.

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There is a special award for Best Use of Color in Platinum, which this year was awarded to Deirdre Featherstone of Featherstone Design for her platinum “Shangri-La” earrings. They feature opals totaling 16.86 carats and tanzanite cabochon drops totaling 48.54 carats, accented with purple and blue sapphires, tourmalines, tsavorite garnets, diamonds and turquoise briolettes.

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he Spectrum Awards is a wonderful tradition that began 29 years ago as a way of celebrating the beauty of colored gemstones. In 1984, the American Gem Trade Association gathered together a judging panel made up of jewelry designers, gem experts and journalists working in the gem, jewelry and accessories markets, and invited them to the AGTA offices in Dallas, Texas, to view “the treasure room.” That’s what I called it the year I had the honor of being a judge in the mid 1990s. Top jewelry designers from

across North America enter the competition using their most prized gemstone finds in their best, most creative and original designs. The results are spectacular, and a sight to behold. Many a jewelry designer’s career has been launched as a result of winning a Spectrum Award. This year, 498 original pieces of jewelry were submitted to the competition, a 10 per cent increase over last year’s number of entries. They were judged this year by Candace Edelman of Alex Sepkus, Jennifer

Men's Wear - 1st Place Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs: Platinum cufflinks featuring baroque pearls (21.06tcw.) accented with multi-colored sapphires.

All images provided by AGTA and Photography by John Parrish

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The Fashion Forward Award went to Jennifer Dawes for an 18k gold necklace featuring aquamarines, emeralds and diamonds.

The award for Best Use of Palladium and Color was given to Cynthia Renee for a palladium and stainless steel “Owl Queen” brooch made of carved petrified palm wood, accented with mother of pearl, diamonds and a 42.47-carat green tourmaline.

Best Use of Pearls was awarded to Anil Maloo Baggins for her 14k white gold earrings with 8.5mm akoya pearls, 9mm white South Sea pearls and 10-11mm Tahitian pearls, accented with diamonds. This piece also won fi rst place in the evening wear category.

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The Editor’s Choice award was won by Parul Kuki Seth for an 18k yellow gold “Two Finger Glam” ring, featuring three emerald cabochons totaling 19.62 carats, accented with smaller round diamonds totaling 9.54 carats.

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SPECTRUM SPECTACULAR

The Best of Show Award this year goes to James Currens of J.W. Currens for a platinum “Lava” ring featuring a 12.99-carat ruby cabochon accented with marquis-cut diamonds totaling 1.47 carats and smaller diamonds totaling 7.40 carats. This piece also won fi rst place in the Classical category.

The Best Use of Color Award went to designer Erica Courtney, who used beautiful color-play opals totaling over 36 carats along with about 6 carats of apatite and tsavorite garnets in a pair of 18k gold drop earrings.

Bridal Wear - Robert Pelliccia, J.R. Dunn Jewelers: Platinum ring featuring a 4.08ct. pink sapphire with half-moon diamonds (.34tcw.) and round diamonds (.56tcw.).

Heebner of JCK Magazine, fi ne jewelry buyer Abby Huhtanen of Bergdorf Goodman, lapidarist Kiwon Jang and designer Kimberly McDonald. Entries were judged on the basis of overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad-base consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones.

Business/Day Wear - Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers: 18k white gold earrings featuring pink opal (8.6tcw.) Japanese plum blossoms accented with black and white diamonds (.87tcw.).

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Second

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Time Around

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Sapphire and Platinum Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. The estimate was $3,000-$5,000, and the piece sold for $25,095. Factors include the exquisite invisible setting, a process invented by Van Cleef & Arpels, and top quality and exceptionally well-matched sapphires. “This particular ring design is no longer in production,” says Jill Burgum of Heritage Auctions. Image provided by Heritage Auctions

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ome of the world’s most beautiful gems and jewelry are sold not at a retail store, but at auction. There is a thriving secondary market for jewelry. Precious gems and metals that are intrinsic to fine jewelry remain valuable. How valuable depends on a few variables. One way to fetch a great price for your jewelry at auction is to become a celebrity – Jackie Onassis’s fake pearls would never have sold for $200,000 at auction had they been owned by Jane Doe from Cleveland. Those of us who are non-celebrities, however, can still buy and sell wisely, and even make a profit. It comes down to six things: quality 36

of gemstones, quality of workmanship, condition of the jewelry, brand name, provenance and design. You can’t go wrong with an important single diamond or gemstone, either alone or incorporated into a piece of jewelry. “Large, high quality diamonds are a good investment, as the market for them continues to climb,” says Jill Burgum, director of fine jewelry for Heritage Auctions. “A few years ago when the stock market shook up, the real estate market declined, and interest levels dropped in banking, a number of our wealthy clients turned to purchasing high quality diamonds as a means of ‘parking’ their money,” she says. “And since diamonds are small in scale, it is easy to store them in a home safe – they don’t take up much space.” Gemstones, if they are important, should be formally appraised. “You really can’t sell important

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An Art Deco Ruby, Diamond and Platinum Ring by Cartier. The estimate was $2,000-$3,000, and it sold for $14,340. “Again, this is a very collectible period in jewelry, and the piece has high quality gemstones,” says Jill Burgum of Heritage Auctions. “Other factors are old-world craftsmanship and a top name brand.” Image provided by Heritage Auctions

gems without a certificate,” says Daphne Lingon, senior vice-president of jewelry at Christie’s Americas. A certificate from a reputable laboratory such as Gemological Institute of America or American Gem Society is not a statement of value but a certificate that authenticates the gem as natural, and grades its quality and other characteristics. As such, it can enhance the value of a piece or gem, as well as serve as a condition report, mentioning any damage to the gem or piece of jewelry. “It’s always good to speak to a specialist,” Lingon advises,” “before either buying or selling a piece of jewelry at auction.” It also doesn’t hurt to hold onto out-of-fashion jewelry for awhile, until it comes around again. “We don’t like to use the word ‘investment’ because, like any market, jewelry has its ups and downs” says

Lingon. “We’re fetching big prices for things we’re selling today at auction that 15 or 20 years ago, you couldn’t give away.” She offers as an example a chunky sautoir from the 1970s, which is now being appreciated as retro. “Ultimately, we tell people: ‘buy what you love.’” Fortunately jewelry, unlike gold bars or stocks, can be worn and appreciated as an object of beauty in itself. Jill Burgum, director of fine jewelry for Heritage Auctions, recommends acquiring fine vintage pieces mainly from the early turn of the 20th century, “specifically the Edwardian and Art Deco era, and particularly pieces that are signed by some of the most respected names in the designer jewelry field, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels or Tiffany.” Being a non-celebrity does not mean you can’t cash in on the celebrity of others. If you can acquire a Winter/Spring 2013

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An Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bracelet by Tiffany & Co. This was a precursor to the modern tennis bracelet. It was estimated to sell for between $10,000 and $15,000. It sold for $30,000. “There are four reasons this fetched such a high amount,” says Jill Burgum of Heritage Auctions. “First, it was made during the most desirable collectible period in jewelry history. Secondly the diamond cutting style is rare. French-cut diamonds are only found in Art Deco jewelry. Thirdly, this design has a classic, timeless appeal that never goes out of fashion. Finally, Tiffany is a top name brand.” Image provided by Heritage Auctions

piece with important provenance, such as any piece owned by the Duchess of Windsor, it will increase in value. “A perfect example would be the recent sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s jewelry,” says Burgum, who cautions, “there is a certain window of time for most celebrities within which their names are recognized. Unless it is an individual of the caliber of Marilyn Monroe or Elizabeth Taylor, who are considered timeless celebrities, the others will fade as their contemporaries age. Once they have passed, the next generation might not recognize the name or value it as much as it once was.”

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arity also plays a major role. “A remarkable, hard-to-find colored stone, such as a blue diamond, or place of origin where the mine is all mined out, such as the one where the Kashmir sapphire came from, will increase the value,” says Jill Burgum of Heritage Auctions. “An item manufactured by a brilliant designer with a small production, such as Fouquet, will also have added value because of its rarity. I would probably also add that jewelry is very closely tied to fashion, so trends that are currently in fashion, whether it is the first time around, or those being revisited, will also have added value.”

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An Art Deco natural and cultured pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1930. This piece sold at Christie’s Geneva, in 1985 for $81,480, and in 2006 for $165,240. It sold last year again for 602,500 U.S. dollars. CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2013

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This cutting edge exhibition opens up an entire world of possibilities by proving that scent itself can be put on display in a museum setting. 40

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Images Images provided provided by by the the Museum Museum of of Arts Arts and and Design Design8

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The Art of Scent at the Museum of Arts and Design by Andrew Siskind

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P

art of what makes the Museum of Arts and Design’s new, breathtaking exhibit on the history of fragrance, “The Art of Scent,” so mystifying is the sense, as you experience it, that the curators have opened up an undiscovered country waiting to be colonized by our minds. This cutting edge exhibition opens up an entire world of possibilities by proving that scent itself can be put on display in a museum setting in a wholly satisfying, reliable, and meaningful way. Within a unique and

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groundbreaking space designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, the museum has created an outstanding sensory experience. The history and legacy of fragrance in the modern era is innovatively examined. The museum's Olfactory Art Curator, Chandler Burr, has selected a handful of seminal scents ranging from Aimé Guerlain, whose Jicky opens the exhibit with the first major fragrance to combine synthetic scent molecules alongside naturally occurring ones to Pierre Wargnye’s groundbreaking 1982 Drakkar Noir, which has come to define the scent of “clean” to our contemporary noses. Other highlights include Ernest Beaux’s landmark

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1921 fragrance Chanel No. 5 and contemporary master Daniela Andrier, whose Untitled incorporates both natural and industrial tones to create a truly modern, entrancing scent. The exhibition also offers an insightful view into the developmental progress of a commercially produced scent, allowing the attendee to smell the process as it unfolds over a series of steps. Finally visitors are offered a chance to don the scents themselves and see how they change over time, when worn. The minimalist design of the exhibition hall removes all visual stimuli that could subvert the pure scent experience, and the fragrances themselves are delivered

in pure bursts of air that allow for their dispersal in quantities that allow one to smell them fully without walking away wearing them. This format is especially advantageous when approaching minimalist scents such as Oliver Cresp’s Light Blue and Jean-Claude Ellena’s Osmanthe Yunnan. This is an exhibit not to be missed. Its very existence redefines the very notion of what a museum can and can not present to the public. The exhibit helps to recontextualize fragrance, long woefully ignored, as a valid artistic medium in which a creative individual’s aesthetic vision can be meaningfully fulfilled in a lasting and powerful way. Winter/Spring 2013

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the footsteps of

Story and photographs by Anne Parizat

Machu Picchu

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alkantay Trail, a back-breaking, blister-weaving wonder, rising from an elevation of 11,000 feet, up to the Salkantay Pass of over 15,000 feet, led us on our once in a lifetime, 7 day grueling hike, covering 42 miles of aerobic ascends and doubly dreadful descends, towards the jeweled Inca ruins of Machu Picchu - an exploration that became a trip of discovery, both physical and spiritual. Before setting out on such a strenuous hike it was necessary to acclimatize for a few nights in the magnificent, ancient Inca town of Cuzco which is located at a base altitude of 11,200 feet. There one finds the typical bric a brac of a highly visited tourist town, (almost 2 million visitors a year), but also the charm and omnipresence of Inca life etched on the faces of the colorful Peruvian locals as well as the magnificent architecture of a town that dates back to the time of the Incas. It is the historic capital of the Inca Empire which was declared a World Heritage Site in 1983 by UNESCO. A mountain jewel, where even the most discerning traveler will find a sizeable choice of 5 star boutique hotels, world-class dining, superb wares of Llama and Alpaca wool, and stunning hand-made gold and silver jewelry inspired by unique Inca

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Hand-carved walls entering one of the temples

art and traditions. The meanderings through the town are arduous, since every street is steep, rising and falling 100’s of feet. It was hard going under foot and coupled with the lack of oxygen proved excellent preparation for the hike that lay ahead. The challenge for us from the outset was to keep up and to stay well on the hikes. We had trained for many months to achieve our goal of hiking up to Machu Picchu, but upon meeting our 8 other fellow hikers we soon realized that we were not only the oldest, but also the least experienced in the group. Two lonely urban amateurs amongst a pack of experienced mountain wolves. After day one, encompassing a 7 mile relatively flat hike, I felt like turning back – but turn back to where? We were all alone in the soaring Andes with only the call of the wild, the thrill of unknown adventures that lay ahead, and the spirits of the Incas beckoning us on to discover the magic of the mountains and the hidden treasure of Machu Picchu, that even Pizzaro and his conquering crusaders couldn’t find. We climbed, boy did we ever climb, learning as we went how to respect the terrain and of the mystical culture of the Incas and their Shaman priests. We witnessed the

The Shayman prepares the offering to the Gods for our peaceful hike

edible and non-edible botanical wonders that grow and thrive in extremely hostile altitudes, and we stood in awe as a mighty condor came down to seize its stricken prey, and we were humbled. Our journey of physical challenge had quickly evolved into one of spiritual awakening and a greater understanding of who we are in the context of geography, history and of man. A street up at Machu Picchu

Peruvian mountain children with welcoming smiles and hearts

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Humantay Lake at 12,000 feet fed by glaciers from Mt Humantay

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the footsteps of

Peaceful weavers overlooking the Sacred Valley

Upon the completion of our 6 day hike through this mountainous paradise where we had met but only one other lonely hiker, we re-entered into the modern world and arrived in Aguas Calientes, the frenzied base town at the foot of Machu Picchu, nursing our aching joints, blisters and bruises. The fabled ruins of Machu Picchu did not disappoint. They are noble, magnificent and proud (and yes worth every blister)! They speak of a defiant Inca nation, who, not unlike other religious mountainous cultures had, against all odds, constructed a hidden, safe habitat high above the clouds. The slopes of the city are verdant, due to an ever abundant supply of water, and the ruins are numerous, well-preserved and awe inspiring. The Incas highly revered the Gods and the immaculate, lovingly carved walls of their ruined temples, humbled us into comprehending and appreciating how this colorful, respectful society had survived - the same way that we had survived our hike, by respecting the mountains, by caring for one another and by revering the greatest spirit of them all – Mother Nature! 48

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Top of Salkantay Pass at 15,213 feet

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