The Coaching Bible

Page 27

Skill Level: Intermediate

This drill is great for climbers learning how to heel hook, and how to effectively engage the heel when climbing. Simply choose two different handholds for the climber to hold on to, with their feet still on the floor. Then point to another hold – the climber must place their heel onto this hold, engage the heel, and release their other foot from the floor.

62. Lock and Test

Skill Level: Intermediate

This exercise is perfect when teaching climbers to climb more statically and to experiment with different holds. It is a great drill for improving a climber’s strength and lock ability.

Skill Level: Intermediate Group Size: 1-15

Team Building

IMPROVER DRILL

Explain to the climbers that they may climb any routes of their choice. However, every time they want to move a hand, they have to initially lock their arm at either 90 degrees or in full lock, and feel the hold they are about to grab before using it. They should repeat this throughout their climbs.

63. Mileage Climbing is the best way to improve at climbing. Split the group up into pairs or groups of three. Ask the groups to pick a circuit (or colour) and attempt to climb each route within that circuit. For example, they must go around the entire climbing centre and complete every blue route in the building. Explain that they have up to three attempts each per problem, after which they should move on to the next problem.

Coaching

This drill is perfect when combined with Hover 90⁰ (page 116), and works well before the Adjusting Holds drill (page 90).

Recommended Drills

Group Size: 1-20

Games

IMPROVER DRILL

Group Management

Improver Drills

It also works well if you pick a hold to rock up to once the heel is weighted. Continue this routine on varied holds. Vary the size and quality of both the handholds and footholds.

Resources

Group Size: 1-6

Coordination

61. Heel Starts

Techniques

IMPROVER DRILL

Warm-Ups

Intermediate Drills

CHAPTER 4 | Improver Drills

97


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