Oracle Time - Issue 113 - June 2025 ( Summer Edition)

The Summer Issue Diving, Driving & Beachside Style

The Ball x Oracle Time

Welcome

Editor’s letter

Summer is finally here, but with it comes the big question: how are you going to spend the few warm months (read weeks) we have here in the UK?

For those of you not obsessed with work, you’re probably eyeing up a holiday this summer. Well, prepare to be inspired as Lisa Young takes us on a trip through Australia aboard the country’s answer to the Orient Express, The Ghan, on page 111. Because nothing says outback explorer like some chilled champagne and a Michelin-quality dinner. Let’s be honest though, while the sight of Uluru in the distance is magnificent, most of us simply want to spend our summer on the beach. And what better bit of wristwear for the hard work of holidaying than a diver? Especially this year, where the usual raft of uninspired black dialled divers has been replaced with bright colours, retro cool, and some of the most playful tool watches around. Check out the selection ranging from entry-level micros to prestige classics on page 49.

Speaking of classics, did you know Zenith historically did divers? And no, I don’t mean the Plongeur. As Tim Vaux uncovers on page 126, the S.58 got there first and, whether it was named after a helicopter of not, is a serious value proposition. Could this be Zenith’s next revival piece? Probably not, but I’m holding out hope all the same.

If divers aren’t your thing, don’t worry, the watch world at large is obsessed with eye-catching colour. Blues, pinks, yellows, oranges, there’s a particular hue to suit

COVER CREDITS

Photography: Teddy Clark

Watch: The Ball x Oracle Time Engineer II Dazzle

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any taste – as long as you want to taste the rainbow. It’s no coincidence our shoot on page 78 pairs watches with seasonal flowers. Nature knows what you need for summer and it’s a statement.

Of course, you’ll need the right kit to go with your statement timepiece and just as a solid tool watch can take you from boat to bar, so too do our trio of outfits – curated by Charlie Thomas on page 88 – cover the spectrum of sunshine-drenched activities. And what tastes better in the sun than barbeque? If you’re hosting your own, check out our best items for al fresco aficionados on page 19; if you’re feeling lazy, our selection of the best barbeque in London on page 105.

If a road trip is more your style, nothing says ‘cruising through the Italian Alps’ quite like a Ferrari. And there’s no Ferrari quite like the new 296 Speciale. As Ben Barry explains on page 95, the shiny new supercar’s heir to a collector-centric legacy and might just be one of the Prancing Horse’s best yet. Top speed? I’ll let you find out. What I won’t bury the lede on however is our cover star this issue. And I do mean OUR cover star. While we’ve featured Ball before and been working with the Swiss-made, historically American watchmaker for years, we can finally announce our new collaboration with them: The Ball x Oracle Time Engineer II Dazzle.

Our second collaboration watch (following the incredibly successful Christopher Ward Shoreline) riffs on a very British WWI camouflage designed to confuse rather than hide. It is (in our opinion) the coolest thing Ball have ever built. Sure, we’re biased but just try to disagree. Find out how to get your hands on this historically charged limited-edition on page 40. And yes, we will be showing it off at Hands On Horology on 14th June at London’s Protein Studios, so if you’ve not got your ticket yet, you don’t have much time. Best get on it.

And as ever, stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue,

Sam Kessler, Editor

Contributors

Jorg Weppelink

Jorg is a Dutch watch journalist who has spent two decades obsessing over watches and a decade writing about them for Fratello and Chrono24. A journalist by trade with a knack for branding and strategy, he loves a good story—especially when told through design. When he’s not lost in the world of horology, you’ll find him at rock concerts, soaking in the music he is secretly more passionate about than mechanical watches.

Charlie Thomas

Charlie Thomas is a UK-based writer and photographer. An eternal pessimist, he has an equal love of both fine food and KFC. His work has appeared in The Independent , The Times , NME, the London Evening Standard , Tatler and Esquire.

Ben Barry

A motoring journalist for over two decades, Ben has worked as a scriptwriter for Channel 4’s Driven, as deputy editor on CAR Magazine and has spent the past ten years as a freelancer. Still a regular for CAR, he’s also contributed to The Sunday Times, Octane and National Geographic.

Lisa Young

Lisa Young is a London-based freelance photographer and travel writer. More a mountain person than a beach person, she loves the Himalayas, often pushing herself to extremes and never walking away without having learned something. She contributes to a variety of media outlets and aid organisations and her photography has been exhibited, used in books, on film and TV shows and featured on BBC Radio 4’s Excess Baggage

Chris Hall

Chris Hall has been writing about watches for 14 years, and publishes The Fourth Wheel, a weekly newsletter for watch enthusiasts as well as contributing to The New York Times, Financial Times, Wired, QP, The Telegraph, Vanity Fair, Vogue Business and many other titles.

Tim Vaux

Tim lives and breathes this world as a watch writer and photographer, working with the top media outlets, retailers, watch brands, and many of the top curators of high-end vintage watches. He also gets a kick from shooting watches in natural, real environments to capture how they truly look on the wrist.

WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk

ART DIRECTOR Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

SUB EDITOR Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com

DIGITAL EDITOR

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk

LEAD DEVELOPER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk

DIGITAL CONTENT CREATOR Kelly Coombes kelly.coombes@opulentmedia.co.uk

CONTENT CREATOR Calista Edwards calista.edwards@opulentmedia.co.uk

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Teddy Clark teddy.clark@opulentmedia.co.uk

PUBLISHER / CO-FOUNDER Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk

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19 — AFICIONADO

Discover some of the coolest items in the world and what should be in your basket

25 — NEWS

What’s happening in the world of fine watchmaking and the luxury industry at large

37 — INTRODUCING

Your guide to all the latest and greatest watch releases from around the world

We knew we wanted a few things from the watch. First, something that tied into Ball’s love of novel engineering. We also wanted something typically British On the Ball - p40

40 — ON THE BALL

Why Ball is an underrated modern watchmaker - and why we collaborated on the Ball x Oracle Time Engineer II Dazzle

2

Tourbillons aren’t all about chronometry; they’re about artistry

In Focus - p148

49 — THE BEST DIVE WATCHES OF 2025

From cool beaters to prestige heritage, we’re on hand to help you find your dive partner

69 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

Exploring the small part, yet big role of the watch crown

74 — DIALLED IN Chris Hall dreams of exciting watch innovation in sports beyond the usual

78 — TASTE THE RAINBOW

As days become lighter, brighter, and warmer, it’s not just nature that’s in bloom

89 — LIFE’S A BEACH

From poolside to beachside and bar, we have your wardrobe covered better than factor 50

95 — THE FERRARI SPECIALE

Lighter, faster, and even more powerful, the 296 Speciale is a Prancing Horse on a rampage

105 — BEST BARBECUE RESTAURANTS

London’s dining scene is full of fantastic grills, and we’ve rounded up seven of the best

111 — ON THE GHAN EXPEDITION

Join us on a luxury train journey through the guts of the Australian Outback

121 — MEN OF INFLUENCE

The designer and illustrator, Bjoern Altman, on Cartier, Saturn and manhole covers

127 VINTAGE HERO

How a shift in focus changed the course of history and left us with a forgotten Zenith gem

133 — WATCH REVIEWS

We get hands-on with watches from Omega, Grand Seiko, and Héron

145 — MICROBRAND CORNER

All the latest and greatest brands from the world of independent watchmakers

A FI C I O N A D O

The coolest things for a hot summer

KING OF THE GRILLS

Old school grilling meets connected tech in Kamado Joe’s latest, the Konnected Joe. The brand’s range of egg-shaped ceramic grills already offer incredibly precise cooking, and this ups it even more, allowing you to light the coals at the press of a button and adjust the temperature from your phone. Lightly grill fish, smoke meat for hours, whatever your refined palate for BBQ requires, this charcoal-fuelled beast can accomplish, leaving you to hosting duties.

Kamado Joe – Konnected Joe, £1,999

LIKE A KNIFE THROUGH… STEAK

Sure, you can cook your meat until it's tender enough to cut with a fork, or you could just make sure your guests have some killer steak knives. As nobody does meat quite like Brazil, you can rest assured that Brazilian cookware brand Tramontina have you covered with their comprehensive Churrasco set of steak knives, forks and carving paraphernalia. It all comes in a handy carry case so that you can break them out wherever your reign over the grill takes you.

Tramontina Churrasco 17-piece carving knife set, £299

NO SMOKE, PLENTY OF FIRE

Nothing beats sitting around a fire pit in the evening and EcoSmart Fire’s Gin table combines that feeling with al fresco elegance. Press a button and the length of the sleek, fluid concrete table is lit with smokeless fire and when not in use, the pit can be covered with glass to offer more surface space. All you need is good food, great wine and a reason to get people over and you’ll be firing this up all evening – and your clothes won’t smell of smoke the next day because of it.

EcoSmart Fire Gin Fire Pit Table, £5,145

MEAT AND GREET

A good cook-out deserves good meat and as the suppliers to plenty of well-heeled London restaurants, Turner & George, butcher meat that is beyond good. Case in point, their ever-popular BBQ box, which packs in enough food for eight people.

That means a clutch of the butcher’s angrily good Black Label burgers, sausages aplenty, pork ribs, and a bavette with some spice rub to match. If all that’s not enough, you can add a low and slow cut too. Nothing says proper Texan BBQ like slow-cooked brisket point end.

Turner & George Original BBQ Box, £85

CASHMERE COMFORT

Nothing keeps the chill of a British summer evening off like a cashmere blanket and there’s no cashmere like that of Loro Piana. This deliciously soft throw blanket in an eye-catching peacock blue has a subtle jacquard weave forming an even subtler brand crest, enough that you can miss it even if you know it’s there. But there’s no mistaking the quality for anything other than the best in the business. Just try to avoid getting meat juices all over it.

Loro Piana Cashmere Coarsehair Throw Blanket, £2,330

N EWS

HANDS ON HOROLOGY EXCLUSIVES

Hands On Horology is just around the corner now. London’s newest watch show and exhibition will take place at Protein Studios in Shoreditch on 14th June. And, in addition to meeting over 40 brands from the industry, your attendance will also secure you some exclusive products available only on the day of the event. Here’s a taste of some of the exclusive goodies to get excited about.

Beaucroft

Beaucroft are one of Britain’s most exciting up and coming watch brands, bringing with them an exclusive Hands On Horology special edition wristwatch called the Seeker Black Ice. It’s an absolute stunner with a gradient ice blue dial and black case. It’s bright and elegant with a hint of sharpness to it thanks to that dark tone case, making it feel incredibly distinctive. It’s powered by the classic NH38 movement with 41-hour power reserve.

It captures the essence of dynamic, colourful, British style

Nodus

Nodus are producing an exclusive Hands On Horology limited edition Tiger’s Eye Sector II Sport, available only on the day. The Sector II Sport is inspired by mid-century sport watches with a fixed bezel and a hyper legible sector dial with a hint of Art Deco influences. With a new tiger’s eye dial, it captures the essence of dynamic, colourful, British style while also playing into renewed interest from collectors in precious stone dials. It will also be their first time exhibiting in the UK.

Paulin

Scottish watch brand Paulin perfectly encapsulate the bright, playful attitude of British watch design with their retro dials. However, for Hands On Horology they’re switching things up with a special edition of 10 watches with dials painted by Glaswegian artist John Nicol. He’s known for his equally colourful artwork with a dynamic use of shape and abstract concepts. The basis for these unique artworks is the Neo 38mm collection housing the Seiko NH35A automatic movement.

InkDial

Respected wristwatch artist InkDial will be on hand in Shoreditch on Saturday 14th June to share his incredible artwork at Hands on Horology. The London based artist will be providing an exclusive Hands On Horology print as part of the Priority ticket package, as well as offering the opportunity to have your watch sketched live on the day. Slots for the sketching are extremely limited and are strictly available on a first come, first served basis at the start of each session.

EDITED BY Michael Sonsino

The latest from the world of watches and luxury lifestyle

GPHG SUBMISSIONS NOW OPEN

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is the most prestigious awards show in all of watchmaking and so they take the business rather seriously. In fact, they have already begun their search for the best watches of 2025 as submissions for this year’s award are open until 20th June. There are 15 categories at this year’s show, ranging from the Aiguille d’Or main prize through to the challenge prize for accessible horology. Brands like Christopher Ward will be hoping that new watches like the C12 Loco can replicate the former success of models like the Bel Canto that won prizes in previous years.

Learn more at gphg.org

They

have already begun their search for the best watches of 2025

CONCOURS TO BRING WORLD’S MOST PRECIOUS CARS TO LONDON

Looking for more events in London this June?

The London Concours is taking place at the Honourable Artillery Company Headquarters from 3rd to 5th June. The show will gather 80 of

the world’s most precious cars, surrounded by artisan and luxury goods for a day of ultimate refinement. Each day is themed, making it worth your time to attend on multiple days of the three-day event. The Tuesday is dedicated to A British Icon: Aston Martin, Wednesday is The Greatest Marque: Mercedes-Benz and Thursday is The Need For Speed: Supercar Day.

Learn more at londonconcours.co.uk

SEIKO POWER DESIGN PROJECT RETURNS TO LONDON

Seiko’s Power Design Project is returning to London’s Japan House for the Incredibly Specialised Watches Exhibition 2. The second edition of an exhibition that first took place last year. It features a selection of quirky concept watches designed to tackle niche concepts to the point of being impractical, hence the name Incredibly Specialised. You can attend the exhibition for free from 15th May until 16th June.

There are six watches in the 2025 edition of the exhibition. First is the Egg Boiling Watch, a watch styled like half a boiled egg and whose case actually contains 10% egg shell in the composition of its plastic. It features a white timer hand that lets you boil the perfect egg. The Egg Boiling Watch is joined by Santa Claus’ Specialised Watch, a GMT watch with a full lume dial and closable lid. The logic being that Santa needs to keep track of multiple time zones as he flies around the world, needs to read his watch in dark, but also needs to be stealthy as he delivers presents. Third is A Watch for Girls in Love. This watch features a spinning disk dial with a flower motif and a window that reveals sentiments of ‘Loves Me’ and ‘Loves Me Not’ in the style of the old schoolyard game. Reimagining it in a sort of roulette form. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Ninja Stealth Watch, which feels like the sort of niche a boy would love. The challenge here was to create a watch that could be read at night without using any luminescence that would give away your position. The solution, a rotating crystal cover that can be moved to expose the tactile dial so you can feel the position of the hour markers and hands.

Taking things to the club is the Specialised Watch for Club DJs, a visual feast for the senses as dynamic as the lights show in your favourite venue. It features an infinity mirror dial that appears to show the watch’s display descending inwards into the dial. It also uses colours that react to UV light like you find in many clubs. Last but by no means least is the Vampire Exclusive Watch, dedicated to all the blood-suckers out there. It features a high gothic design with a display that only shows the hours of the night, though the daylight numerals are still there hidden in crimson. It also features a rotating red crystal bezel that lets you track when you last ate.

The Incredibly Specialised Watches Exhibition 2 will be on display from 15th May until 16th June in the shop at Japan House London, 101111 Kensington High Street. Free admission.

OMEGA CELEBRATE NASA

ANNIVERSARY

Omega are celebrating the 60th anniversary of their official flight qualification from NASA, the occasion in 1965 that would later allow the Speedmaster to become the Moonwatch in 1969 when it

accompanied the Apollo 11 mission. NASA declared that the Omega Speedmaster was “flight qualified for all manned space missions.” In order to achieve this qualification the watch had to pass 11 tests operated by NASA engineer James Ragan. Those tests included high temperature, low temperature, vacuum, humidity, corrosion, shockresistance, acceleration, high pressure,

low pressure, vibration and sound. Of the watches being tested, only the Speedmaster passed all 11, with the other participants all failing the high temperature test. There was also a hidden 12th test: style – after all, the astronauts had to want the watch, and unanimously they loved it. It’s this historic moment that cemented the Speedmaster’s enduring legacy.

BREGUET SYMPATHIQUE N°1 SELLS FOR CHF 5.5 MILLION

In the previous issue of Oracle Time we highlighted the upcoming sale of the Breguet Sympathique N°1, produced by François-Paul Journe in 1991, which has now been sold by Phillips for the staggering figure of CHF 5,505,000 (approx. £4,950,000). However, the story doesn’t end there as it has also been revealed who purchased this incredibly rare set. It was none other than F.P. Journe who purchased it with the intention of adding it to his museum display to preserve the objects and ensure they remain in the best hands possible for safe keeping.

The story doesn’t end there as it has been revealed who purchased this incredibly rare set

The show has seen an incredible 46% increase in the number of brands attending

SEVENTH DUBAI WATCH WEEK SET FOR NOVEMBER

Dubai Watch Week returns in 2025 with over 90 participating brands descending on Dubai Mall at Burj Park from 19th to 23rd November 2025. This will be the seventh edition of the show, which has seen an incredible 46% increase in the number of brands

attending, showing that the Middle East continues to be a key global market for the luxury watch industry.

Attending brands include major names you know and love like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Van Cleef & Arpels, Hublot, Chopard, Ferdinand Berthoud, Breitling, Girard-Perregaux, Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Chanel, and Gerald Charles, as well as growing brands like Kollokium, Behrens, and independents like Britain’s own Roger W. Smith.

Learn more at dubaiwatchweek.com

RICHEMONT ANNUAL REPORT

RICHEMONT RELEASE ANNUAL REPORT

Richemont has published their annual report covering the financial year up to 31st March 2025. While the report covers the entire activities of the group, including their jewellery and style brands, our focus is on the watch sector. The quick summary is that it’s quite a mixed bag for Richemont’s watch Maisons – A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, and Vacheron Constantin.

The headline figure is that compared to the previous financial year, there has been a 13% decline in sales. Dropping from €3,767 million to €3,283 million. However, the decline is not uniform across Richemont’s global regions, not by a long shot. The Asia Pacific region, which in 2024 represented 50% of total sales (the largest segment by a fair margin) saw a decrease of 27%. Meanwhile, the other global regions of Europe, Middle East, Americas and Japan saw either stable numbers or even a small growth, though not enough to counter the weight of the shrinking Asia Pacific.

The reasons for this region-specific reduction are many and varied. Not all of Richemont’s speciality watch

M

M

Limited presence of specialist watchmakers

Strength of local competition (e.g. China)

“Fiscal year 2025 was a year of progress underscoring the Group’s strategic focus amidst a complex, fast-evolving global landscape”

Johann Rupert says

brands have a large presence in the region so any successes there are limited. At the same time the strength and quality of the home market for Chinese, Hong Kong and Macau-based brands is increasing, presenting new challenges for imported brands. This is especially the case for the smaller and midrange brands with the higher end remaining more resilient. However, this doesn’t spell immediate disaster for the Richmont brands. Thanks to cautious and well-balanced predictions, they were already aiming to reduce costs, which they achieved. So, while the total sales have decreased, so too have the operating costs meaning that overall,

the companies have remained in profit. Plus, the strengthening of the Swiss Franc alleviated some losses in foreign markets. The operating margin as a whole for the Richemont watch sector remains at 5.3%, which is still a reduction over the previous year, but not a loss.

Chairman Johann Rupert says in his closing remarks, “fiscal year 2025 was a year of progress underscoring the Group’s strategic focus amidst a complex, fast-evolving global landscape. Whilst our Specialist Watchmakers’ performance mostly reflected weakness in their largest region, the Group’s performance was robust overall, driven by remarkable growth at our Jewellery Maisons and retail.”

Dive watches come in many shapes and sizes, but you don’t have to be an expensive Submariner or Fifty Fathoms to become legendary. Doxa and Zodiac have both had an influential impact on the dive watch at more of an approachable price point. The influence of the Doxa Sub is easy to see in the watch world, being one of the first watches to popularise the use of orange dials in dive watches. But how does the Zodiac Sea Wolf stack up in comparison?

While they might not have the instant brand recognition of Rolex or Omega, Doxa are one of the seminal dive watch brands. During the 1960s, one of the major growth periods for diver design, they developed the concept of an orange dial that first debuted in the original Sub 300. Today, the modernised version of that collection and its orange dial continue to be a core part of their identity.

DOXA SUB 300

SCORES: Innovation: 80 Style: 82 Durability: 86 Value: 60 Desirability: 75 Head to Head Rating: 76

The development of Doxa’s orange dial harks back to 1964 when they began to undertake colour tests in the depths of Lake Neuchâtel. The result, orange on top.

While orange is the classic dial option, Doxa have become equally famous for the sheer breadth of colour options available for each of their models, including the Sub 300.

We’ve chosen to give the Doxa Sub 300 a lower value rating, not because it represents bad value per se, but more in protest of Doxa’s continued refusal to offer more transparency regarding the movements they use. It’s hard to give a solid figure when you have to guess the movement based on its specs.

The Zodiac Sea Wolf, similar to the Doxa Sub 300, first hit the scene in the mid-20th century. However, where Doxa were concerned with colour and legible design, Zodiac were revolutionising price, offering solid dive watch specs at accessible levels and introducing a whole new audience to the archetype. Over the years they have offered great value while improving their quality with models like the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver

ZODIAC SUPER SEA WOLF

Measuring 42mm with a unidirectional diving bezel, the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver is a handsome timepiece with a black dial and lumed accents, including an orange minute hand – perhaps influenced by Doxa’s own success with orange.

SCORES:

Sporting a 300m water resistance rating, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver has the same professional level of dive watch utility as the Sub 300.

Powering the Zodiac is the Sellita SW200 automatic movement with COSC chronometer certification. Being a chronometer means it’s tested in multiple positions with an accuracy of at least -4/+6 hours per day.

With both watches featuring 300m water resistance in the £1,000 to £3,000 price bracket, there’s a lot of similarity between the Doxa Sub 300 and Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver. Aesthetically though, they’re very different. The Doxa has a barrel shaped case with a dual scale bezel, while the Zodiac follows more of a retro skindiver design, as established by Rolex and Blancpain in the 1960s. I would argue that the Doxa feels more distinctive and stands out in what is already a highly saturated niche. However, the Zodiac has a higher spec movement with its COSC chronometer certification and they are transparent about the movement used.

COLLABORATION WATCHES

Priority access to our extremely limited-run Oracle Time watches, created in partnership with fantastic brands

EXCLUSIVE EVENTS

Invitations to brand showcases, boutique experiences and our upcoming 40-brand exhibition, Hands On Horology

COMPETITIONS & GIVEAWAYS

Regular chances for our members to receive a free watch from brands like Baltic, Formex, and more.

DISCOUNTS & OFFERS

Money off, free straps and more across a wide selection of watch and accessory brands

BECOME AN ORACLE TIME MEMBER

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BENEFITS INCLUDE

You will receive all this, ten issues of the print magazine and more for just £89.50 per year. To become a member, visit oracleoftime.com/ membership or use the QR code below.

PLEASE NOTE:

While there are other ways you may receive the print magazine – your favourite watch retailer, collecting clubs, and the like – you need to be a direct paying subscriber to access these benefits.

ALPINA

Alpiner Extreme Automatic Titanium

Moving in the complete opposite direction from their sleek TropicProof, Alpina are back at the bigger end of the scale, this time in titanium. This is Alpina’s first titanium watch and the Alpiner’s rugged, faceted and uncompromisingly eye-catching design is the perfect platform for it. A quasi-industrial beater with a workhorse movement, the new lightweight case material (and cool monochrome look) makes it more adventure-ready than ever.

THE DETAIL:

• 39mm titanium case with 200m water resistance

• AL-525 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £2,195, alpinawatches.co.uk

I N T R O D U C I N G

SEIKO

Seiko’s dressy line continues to dazzle with ever more handsome dial variations. Rather than their colourful cocktail variations however, the new Edo Silk line amps up the dressiness with textures and colours drawn from the Japan’s historical Edo period, like a classier twist on vintage linen dials. Paired with a solid automatic movement and available in white, brown, or indigo, the new pieces prove that you don’t need to break the bank to get your hands on a killer evening watch.

THE DETAIL:

• 36mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Seiko 6R51 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £900, seikoboutique.co.uk

Presage Edo Silk

ARCANAUT

Experimental: Arc II Garnet Goblin

What do you get when you combine goblinoriented Czech folklore with watchmaking? This, the Arc II Garnet Goblin. While the case shares Arcanaut’s precise, CNC-machined architecture, the dial is where the action is, made from a cluster of garnets polished down to a perfectly flat surface. The result is a deep red, textured look that’s beyond what usual dial finishes could hope to attain. Is it mad? Yes. Is it cool? Yes. Is it affordable? Surprisingly, also yes.

THE DETAIL:

• 40.52mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Soprod M100 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £3,710, limited to 66 pieces, arcanaut.watch

MASSENA LAB

x Raúl Pagès Noctograph

Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès has enough of a wait list that you’ll more likely see him headlining auctions these days. But that doesn’t mean you need to spend your life savings to get one of his watches – courtesy of the ever-iconoclastic Massena LAB. An Art Deco-style small seconds watch with a rich, royal blue, vertically brushed dial and silver subdial and chapter ring, there’s a lot to love. The reverse is almost as handsome, with the Massena-built, Pagès-designed M660 manualwind movement on full display. The cost to get a piece of Pagès work? Just over £7,000. The flex at your next collector meet-up? Priceless.

THE DETAIL:

• 38.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• M660 manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve

• $8,875 (approx. £7,100), limited to 99 pieces), massenalab.com

RAYMOND WEIL

Millesime 35mm

The vintage-sized wave keeps on coming as Raymond Weil double down on their archivallyhandsome Millesime collection with a new 35mm variation. Yes, many guys won’t be able to pull these off, but if you can, it’s worth it. The anthracite version with a pop of mint green offers a modern twist to the small seconds’ Art Deco stylings. Sure, it takes a confident man to wear a watch this size but with some immaculate tailoring to compliment, you’ll be a vintage icon in the making. Much like the Millesime.

THE DETAIL:

• 35mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• RW4250 calibre automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• £1,775, raymond-weil.com

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Overseas Grand Complication Openface

It’s not just the Traditionnelle collection benefiting from Vacheron’s obsession with high complications; now it’s the Overseas’ turn. Meet the Overseas Grand Complication Openface, where the ‘grand’ stands for tourbillon, perpetual calendar and, for the first time in an Overseas, minute repeater. Like their anniversary capsule collection, that insane 2755 QP movement is on full display through the front of the watch. Unlike the capsule, you could almost call this a little sport adjacent. At least, the lightweight case is in titanium. I wouldn’t recommend going running with it, but that’s something.

THE DETAIL:

• 44.5mm titanium case with 30m water resistance

• 2755 QP manual-wind movement with 58-hour power reserve

• vacheron-constantin.com

ON BTHEALL

WHY BALL IS ONE OF THE MOST UNDERRATED MODERN WATCHMAKERSAND EXACTLY WHO WE WANTED TO CREATE A WATCH WITH

Sam Kessler

Last year, we did something big: we created a watch. Granted, we’re not the first media company to collaborate on a timepiece. You could argue that it happens perhaps too often. But with the Shoreline we not only created a fantastic-looking limited edition, but a watch that went on to become a full Christopher Ward collection. There’s been a big question hanging over us ever since though: what’s next?

How does one follow up a sell-out success like the Dune Shoreline? And what was it about the watch that struck a chord? Well for us, it was three things: a cool dial, a value proposition and a uniquely British idea. And so we spent the past year talking to various watch brands, coming up with various designs and while many of them are still in the pipeline, we can finally present what we’ve been working on: The Ball x Oracle Time Engineer II Dazzle.

Before we get too much into the design, it’s worth exploring why we decided to work with Ball. For anyone that owns one they’re invariably a favourite, big, chunky tool watches that score as big on value-for-money as they do build quality. For anyone else however they tend to go underthe-radar as one of (at least in our opinion) the most underrated of Swiss brands. So first, a short history lesson.

While it might not seem it given how most trains in the UK run, the railway and timekeeping have been inextricably linked throughout history. And it’s not just for the risk of annoying passengers either; chronometry on the railway can be a matter of life and death. Unfortunately, back in late 1800s America, the death came first.

In 1891, the watch of the train conductor stopped for four minutes, just outside of Cleveland Ohio. Four minutes isn’t a great amount in the grand scheme of the universe; at a railway crossroads, it’s vital. Because four minutes after the train’s scheduled time was when a fast mail train would be heading through the same stretch of track.

As it was, the Great Kipton Train Wreck was a disaster that shook up the nascent Great American Railroad with absolutely devastating imagery of the wrecked timber carriages. They realised they needed something beyond whatever uncertified pocket watches the conductors had to hand – and enlisted the help of Webb C. Ball as Chief Time Inspector to make things right.

Mr. Ball had already been a bit of a timekeeping influence in Cleveland. The then-jeweller was the first to use the signals from the US Naval Observatory to keep civilian timekeeping to a much higher standard than the average dandy needed. He evidently already understood the need for chronometric precision; he just needed to apply that standard to the entire railroad. Easy, right? Thus, the Ball watch company was forever linked to the USA’s railway system.

At the time, Ball was doing what most jewellers of the era did and re-casing third-party movements. Think Elgin, Hamilton and Waltham, back when there was some serious watchmaking infrastructure in the USA. But the prestige of railway chronometers evidently struck a chord – as did the phrase ‘On the Ball’, which the watchmaker may or may not have coined. I like to think they did.

Fast-forward to today and modern Ball is a lot different from those early days of railroad watches. Sure, the Trainmaster has a railroad heritageflavoured name, and some references ripped straight from pocket watch layouts, but there’s nothing classical about names like the Engineer Hydrocarbon Submarine Warfare, with dimensions that more than live up to the name. But at their core they still have the engineering-led approach that led to solid, reliable and accessible watchmaking across the railways. Who better to build a watch with?

That all brings us back to the Engineer II Dazzle and where early Ball used the navy for timekeeping, we’ve used it for inspiration.

At the drawing board we knew we wanted a few things from the watch. First, we wanted something that tied into Ball’s historical love of novel engineering. We also wanted something typically British. Finally, it needed to be something Ball has never done before. If it tied into Ball’s history all the better – perhaps, for example, something naval,

At their core they still have the engineering-led approach that led to solid, reliable and accessible watchmaking across the railways. Who better to build a watch with?

given Ball’s early chronometric reliance on the old US Naval Observatory. That’s where we hit upon the idea of Dazzle Camo - or Razzle Dazzle, if you feel the need to American it up.

Dazzle Camo has a fun place in naval history. In 1917, British merchant vessels were being mercilessly targeted by German U-boats. This was nearly two decades before radar, so there wasn’t much the ships could do to stop them except try camouflage. Zoologist John Graham Kerr proposed taking inspiration from wildlife, the zebra specifically, but blending those colours into the scenery with shading - guns painted grey on top to white below would appear invisible on the horizon. It was a novel idea, but one that would have varying impact in different lightings.

Marine painter Norman Wilkinson however saw the grain of another idea in there, leaning on the disruptive side of things. He realised that with the right abstract shapes and lines in the right places, you could obfuscate the various planes of a ship. You tricked the eye into not just missing the details, but finding it hard to even tell what direction it’s pointing in. The ship itself wasn’t meant to blend in, it was just meant to be confusing to look at.

The idea stuck with the admiralty of the British navy and soon Wilkinson was in charge of the Dazzle Section, housed in the Royal Academy of Arts. Countless variations on Dazzle patterns were

From the time of Webb C. Ball’s appointment as the Chief Time Inspector for the Great American Railway to the Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU (left), Ball have shown a historical love of novel engineering, including the disruptive use of black and white abstract shapes and lines on Royal Navy ships during WWI

It was marine painter Norman Wilkinson who hit on the idea of abstract shapes and lines to obfuscate the various planes of a ship, which are as beguiling on the horizon as they are the face of a beautiful new watch

THE BALL X ORACLE TIME DAZZLE

DIAL:

• Embossed dazzle camouflage pattern

• 15 micro gas tubes on hour, minute and second hands and dial for night reading capability

CASE:

• 904L stainless steel

• Ø40mm, height 11.5mm

• Anti-reflective sapphire crystal

• Sapphire crystal case back

• Screwed-in crown

FUNCTIONS:

• Hours, minutes and sweep seconds

• Shock resistant to 5,000Gs

• Anti-magnetic to 4,800A/m

• Water resistant to 100m/330ft

MOVEMENT:

• Automatic calibre BALL RR1101-C

• COSC-Certified Chronometer

• 56-hour power reserve

STRAP:

• stainless steel bracelet. Blue NATO strap available separately.

AVAILABILITY:

• £2,480 (inc. VAT)

• Limited to 100 pieces

• Available 11th June for Oracle Time members

• General sale 14th June at Hands On Horology

• Delivery October 2025

We knew we wanted a few things from the watch. First, something that tied into Ball’s love of novel engineering. We also wanted something typically British

trialed on models before being painted on hundreds of ships, filling dockyards with geometric, eyewrenching patterns. Every ship had a unique version of the technique and no two were ever alike. It was a surprising creative outlet in a time of war.

Did it work? It’s hard to tell. The camo certainly did confuse the eye, back when torpedo crews were eyeballing their targets through periscopes. And at the very least it had a huge effect on crew morale on the painted ships. But as time moved on and technology advanced, out with the old manual rangefinders and in with electronics. While Dazzle Camo did make an appearance in WWII, it wasn’t quite the protection it once was. It didn’t take long before those fantastic hull patterns were painted over in admiral grey.

Dazzle camo was a historical anomaly for sure, but one that perfectly encapsulates that British approach to design, that out-of-the-box (and some might say out-of-their-mind) thinking. We absolutely loved it and we knew we wanted Norman Wilkinson’s contribution to naval history interpreted in a watch.

Like the Shoreline before it, the dial is where the action is. The sharp, fractured pattern of triangles has been embossed to help the different shapes stand out more, in shades of white, grey and black just like the original dazzle camo concept. The specific pattern isn’t tied to a historical ship or anything quite that concrete. After a lot of trial and error, it is however the version that best suited the smaller, rounder space of a watch dial. It’s more in line with the kind of camo that concept cars use to hide their aerodynamics on test tracks, taking the same idea and modernising it.

To add a bit of colour, we tipped the hands in an icy sky blue – fitting for a nautically-themed timepiece. While you might mistake the various indexes for solid blocks of lume, they’re much more interesting than that. Unlike other watchmakers Ball actually uses radioactive H3 tritium gas in place of standard Superluminova. These self-illuminating tubes of science don’t need sunlight to charge and glow brighter than anything Black Badger works with. They’re a Ball signature and while they’re not the main reason we love the brand, they’re certainly part of it.

The best thing about H3 gas tubes is that the glass can easily be coloured. Ball in fact have some seriously cool rainbow dials that only come alive in the dark. On the Engineer II Dazzle we were slightly more reserved: a sky-blue glow across the hands and the 12 o’clock hour marker (matching those icy blue tips) and a clean, nautical white across the rest. Fair warning, this is a watch you might want to keep in a drawer rather than a bedside table. Unless you're in need of a nightlight at any rate.

Between the striking camo pattern and selfilluminating indexes, we wanted the dial to do the talking, so we opted to dazzle up one of Ball’s more streamlined pieces. One of Ball’s most successful lines in recent years is the Engineer III Marvelight, the brand’s chunky alternative to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual. It felt like the perfect canvas to work with. In fact, that was where we initially started, but we wanted something slimmer – which we found in the earlier Engineer II.

The result is 40mm of stainless steel, a relatively svelte thickness of 11.5mm and a water resistance of 100m. In terms of dimensions, this is a daily wearer if ever there was one. Hell, you can put it through some serious knocks and thanks to its 5,000G shock resistance, it’ll come out swinging the other side. The main construction difference between this and other Ball watches however is that we’ve foregone the soft iron inner case in favour of an exhibition caseback – a rarity for Ball. But given it’s showing off Ball’s COSC-certified, RR1101-C movement it’s worth not being able to wear it in an MRI machine.

Fit on a solidly built stainless steel bracelet, the Engineer II Dazzle is a long way from those railroad standard pocket watches from the late 1800s. But it draws on the same engineering prowess that has made modern Ball one of the unsung heroes of modern watchmaking – just with what we consider a very OT twist. And while we do of course want our 100-piece limited edition to do well – and with a value-driven price tag of £2,480, we’re expecting it to – we’re hoping it also gets more eyes looking at just what Ball can do. More eyes, you could say, on the Ball.

The Ball x Oracle Time Engineer II Dazzle will go on sale 11th June exclusively for Oracle Time members, before going on general sale 14th June at Hands On Horology, our 40-brand extravaganza of a watch show. To avoid disappointment, become a member to get priority access to this and future collaboration watches, ten print issues a year and many more benefits besides.

For more information, visit oracleoftime.com/membership

Sam Kessler

The Best Watches of 2025

~ It’s summer and that means the hot weather is here. Or it means you’re jetting off to find it, depending on how cooperative the Great British climate is being. Either way, there’s no better way to cool off than jumping into the ocean and, as you likely don’t have time in your busy holiday schedule to pause, that means diving watches.

Whereas in previous years dive watches could be straight-laced utilitarian affairs, 2025 brings with it a host of summer-ready colours at both ends of the horological spectrum, from cool, accessible beaters to prestige heritage pieces. To help you find your ideal dive partner, we’ve rounded up the best of the best in deep diving watchmaking.

NODUS Sector Deep

Nodus are one of the brands I’m most excited to see in the metal at Hands On Horology this month and the Sector Deep Pioneer is one of the reasons why. Dive watches tend to be solidly built, but Nodus’s is ridiculously over-engineered, robust, and goes a lot further than ‘just’ diving down to 500m. It also includes a GMT hand (read off the inner 24-hour ring) and a bezel split between the standard diving scale and a compass, all with lashings of lume. It’s a whole lot of functionality that for once doesn’t compromise on its tool watch roots. It looks pretty badass, too.

THE DETAIL:

• 38mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance

• TMI NH34 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• $625 (approx. £470), noduswatches.com

GOLBY Coastal

For those of us with diminutive wrists, the usual, chunky divers are a non-starter. This is a sub-set where 38mm is tiny. So, what about 36? The eminently wearable Golby Coastal not only suits smaller wrists but does so without feeling like a women’s version of a bigger watch. In large part that wrist presence due to the combination of proper, overhanging diving bezel (that takes it to 37.4mm) and an open dial. But let’s be honest, it’s also down to colour – and the Coastal has that in spades.

THE DETAIL:

• 36mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Miyota 90S5 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £329, golbywatches.co.uk

HERON

Marinor Rainbow

Decompression tables aren’t just vital for long dives, they look pretty cool too – especially if you can fit one on a watch dial. Case in point, the Heron Marinor Rainbow. No gem-set bezel or funky indexes here. Instead the spread of colour comes from the concentric rings telling you how long to decompress at what depth. Surrounded by a Fifty Fathoms-style bezel, it’s pure, funky 1960s vibes and I’m here for it. And given it’s water resistant to 300m, you might find yourself actually using that table.

THE DETAIL:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £510, heronwatches.com

SPINNAKER

Challenger Automatic

Taking its name from the Challenger Deep, the latest from Spinnaker is actually a smaller, more wearable twist on their great but hefty Piccard. It still has the collection’s intense sapphire crystal and 300m water resistance, just now 42mm across – and with a quartet of stunning dials. Available in blue, green, red, and grey, with matching bezels, the pattern is meant to imitate the swirls on the ocean floor. Personally I find it a bit more abstract but that’s no bad thing. Who says serious tool watches can’t be fun?

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Seiko NH35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• £492, spinnaker-watches.com

CITIZEN

Promaster Unite with Blue

Part of Citizen’s six-piece oceanic capsule collection, the latest version of the Japanese brand’s incredibly chunky professional diver comes with a dial inspired by the Sea of Silence. If you’re wondering, that’s the term used for areas of the deep ocean where there are no waves and not many animals, just the giants. Fun fact though: the dial’s not actually blue. Instead, it’s covered in a pigmentless ink that reflects the light in weird, wonderful, very blue ways. It’s a great idea and, regardless of how it’s achieved, a great colour.

THE DETAIL:

• 46mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Citizen Cal.E365

Eco-Drive Movement

• £549, limited to 4,800 pieces, citizenwatch.co.uk

RICH KING

Gold Aurra

What happens when you combine the two polar opposites that are a dive watch and a dress watch? Something like the Gold Aurra. Rich King’s dressy diver combines a 42mm dive watch case, complete with tone-on-tone grey bezel with a glamorous golden dial on a Jubilee-style bracelet. Sure, with 200m you can certainly be comfortable wearing this on a boat, but with the way it looks said boat had better be a classic yacht. Nobody will even realise the uber-accessible price tag.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Seiko NH35A automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• £555, richkingwatch.com

NEOTYPE

LM01 Type D

It can be hard to aesthetically revamp an archetype so ingrained as a dive watch, but Neotype have made it their own in the LM01. The angular case bleeding into a striking crown protector, one of the most tactile diving bezels around, and a minimalist sandwich dial all contribute to an incredibly cool tool watch. The all-black version has a bit more of a tactical edge too, offering a distinctive, high-contrast look that shouts professionalism. Fortunately, it also has the specs to match.

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £559, limited to 100 pieces, neotypewatches.com

OCEANEVA

6000m Deep Marine Explorer VI

Oceaneva is on a one brand mission to redefine what good value means in the watch industry. The 6000m Deep Marine Explorer VI is only the third watch to achieve a staggering 6,000m water resistance rating, joining the rarified air of the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and Rolex Deep Sea Challenge. However, instead of costing 10-25k, it has a pre-sale price of just £692 (RRP £3,077), shipping in July. The case is made from durable Grade 5 titanium with a Damascus steel bezel. There are also a huge number of variations with a mixture of colours, gradients and even dial finishing available.

THE DETAIL:

• 44mm titanium case with 6,000m water resistance

• Sellita SW200 movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £692 pre-sale, RRP £3,077, oceaneva.com

CERTINA

DS Action

The DS Action was already a great value proposition, but it’s just got better thanks to enhancements to Certina’s signature Double Security concept. By adding a steel nut around the movement, the uber-accessible diver is now shock resistant to 10,000g. That’s more than most sports watches in general can manage and nothing in the sub-£1,000 price point. With a handsome gilt dial, matching NATO strap, and the superb Powermatic 80 movement, there’s a lot to love here.

THE DETAIL:

• 40.5mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• ETA Powermatic 80 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve

• £765, certina.co.uk

MCQUAIDE Q1

It’s a fact of life that Damascus steel is cool. Don’t argue, you know it’s true. The mesmeric patterns in the metal look like nothing else. So, while the McQuaide Q1 has a serious water resistance of 1,000m, the intense dive watch specs play second fiddle to the full Damascus steel case and bezel. Available in a few different colours, this is one of the few instances I’d go for black, just so there’s not too much going on. Regardless of your preference though, this is a bit of a mental watch for the money.

THE DETAIL:

• 43.2mm damascus steel case with 1,000m water resistance

• Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £750, mcquaide.co.uk

FARER

AquaMatic Freshwater

While the Nazare we shot elsewhere in this magazine is the most eye-catching version of Farer’s colourful AquaMatic collection, the Freshwater has a pitch-perfect summer colourway. An aqua blue bezel and matching numerals outlined in a darker shade with a white backdrop, the Freshwater’s as cool and calm as its name. It’s also a great size at 38.5mm so, while it’s 200m water resistance is less professional than other watches here, it’s a winner in the style stakes, especially on the quick-release textured rubber strap.

THE DETAIL:

• 38.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Sellita SW220-1 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• £875, farer.com

VENEZIANICO

Nereide Corallo

Stone dials are hotter than ever, but few materials are quite as fiery as coral. The vibrant colour and organic grain mean there are few dials more eye-catching. It also suits Venezianico’s Nereide to a tee. The Venice-inspired brand’s signature diver already has a lot going on with its bold 42mm stainless steel case, ultra-hard tungsten bezel insert, and half-floating indexes, but you’d be forgiven for missing all that. When you see that Madreporic coral dial, it’s hard to notice anything else.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• €1,061.90 (approx. £895), venezianico.com

MONARTE Squid

Guilloche? On a dive watch? What madness is this? Well, it’s called the Squid and I kind of love it. For one, the all steel 40.5mm case and bezel combo is a tactile take on a classic diver, and the details across both – knurling on the bezel, a wavy grip on the crown – elevate the whole thing. But that dial is just magnificent. Concentric rings of knurling (or clous de Paris if you’re being pretentious), inset, diamondfaceted indexes, steel-bordered date window, it all looks and feels like a prestige timepiece that just so happens to be a professional standard diver. Boardroom to boat has nothing on this.

THE DETAIL:

• 40.5mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• ETA 2824 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £960.34, monartewatches.com

DOXA SUB 200

It’s not often Doxa really mix up their classics and for good reason; they’re staples of professional divers everywhere. For 2025 however, they’ve given their entry-level SUB 200 a new look with a stainless steel bezel. It’s a small change, but one that makes a big difference in the look of the diver – one that looks particularly handsome on the Divingstar yellow version with its rather sexy half-mesh bracelet. It’s a classic, refreshed.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Swiss automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £1,090, uk.doxawatches.com

STOWA

Prodiver Vintage 95

If there’s something of a pilots’ watch about Stowa’s funky, faceted diver, it’s because the dial is based on the brand’s anniversary flieger model – and it works. Underwater, legibility is king, so pair that with an intensely machined case milled with military precision and 1,000m water resistance that can survive more than a crash landing at sea and you have a serious contender for ‘most retro diver of the year’. And that’s a very, very high bar.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm titanium case with 1,000m water resistance

• Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• €1,508,40 (approx. £1,270), limited to 95 pieces, stowa.de

HERBELIN

Cap Camarat Diver

This is quite possibly the coolest, most confident watch Herbelin has ever built. It’s still recognisably in the French brand’s wheelhouse with the signature 1970s flair of the Cap Camarat collection, but upsized and using a sleek rotating inner bezel for a dive timer, blending it with early Super Compressor style. The flashes of orange turn a nice everyday wearer into something that screams sporty. It’s solid in pretty much every way –including price.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Sellita SW220-1 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• €1,300 (approx. £1,098), herbelin.com

SERICA

5303 PLD

While most dive watches will never see the water, they’re still tool watches designed for an express purpose. Well, Serica’s latest retro 5303 kicks that up a notch with a new DT Max bezel, designed for the French Navy’s EOD unit. They’re the guys that blow up underwater mines. They’re insane. The new bezel tells them precisely how long they can spend at certain depths without needing decompression stops on the way up, because when a bomb’s about to go boom, you don’t want to hang around.

THE DETAIL:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• M100 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• €1,690 (approx. £1,460), serica-watches.com

With its beefy shoulders and intense case construction, the Reef can be a bit of an intimidating watch, which is why this smaller, 39.5mm version is a more than welcome addition to the Formex line-up. The dial is a gorgeous brushed bronze, but one that’s been lacquered so it won’t oxidise. Some people love that signature patina, some do not. I fall into the latter camp, another novel reason to love Formex’s idiosyncratic approach to watchmaking.

THE DETAIL:

• 39.5mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve

• £2,020, formexwatch.com

FORMEX Reef Radiant Bronze

TITONI Seascoper

Let’s quickly take stock of everything Titoni’s Seascoper has. A lightweight carbon case. A hardwearing ceramic bezel. 600m of water resistance and a COSC-certified movement. Put that up against any of the big players in dive watches and Titoni come across pretty strong. Take a look at the price however and things get even more appealing, all of this for a sub-3K price tag. Sure, the fun splashes of bright, eye-catching blue help it stand out as a seriously cool bit of watch, but even on specs alone there’s a lot to love here.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm carbon case with 600m water resistance

• T10 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £2,735, titoni.ch

VULCAIN Skindiver Chronograph

Vulcain have been assiduously plundering their archives of late – which given their archives is no bad thing – and following up the pitch-perfect Skindiver Nautique from 2023 is this, the Skindiver Chronograph. Between the blocky indexes and hands with aged lume and vintage-inspired colourway, it has the same retro beauty as its predecessor, now with added bi-compax chronograph subdials in contrasting silver against the black dial. Finished on a downright sexy beads of rice bracelet, it has me looking forward to what Vulcain will dust off next.

THE DETAIL:

• 39.7mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• ETA 7753 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £2,480, vulcain.ch

AQUASTAR Benthos 500

Normally there’s a bit of a question mark over dive chronographs, but when the watch in question is the muscular, intensely functional Benthos 500, there’s no question about it. You can read the elapsed time as usual via the diving bezel, but thanks to the monopusher chronograph – operable mid-dive – you can time your non-decompression stops on the 60-minute ring. It’s the only mechanical diver to incorporate the two, something that will appeal to any of you that actually dive. The movement’s an exclusive from La Joux-Perret, making this retro-designed archival throwback a proper tool watch inside and out.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• 1MPS calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve

• $3,790 (approx. £2,850), aquastar.ch

Grand Fonds Heterium

While ZRC originally cut their nautical teeth with the French Navy, their latest is anything but a vintage throwback. The Heterium is designed for whatever the world throws at it with its unusually shaped case, painfully cool, minimalist diving bezel and gorgeous gradient blue dial. The huge crown at six o’clock, nestled into the bracelet though, shows that this is beyond an everyday wearer. This is a serious piece of kit – just one that’s actually wearable, which can be a rarity in diving watches.

THE DETAIL:

• 41.5mm stainless steel case with 1,000m water resistance

• Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve

• CHF 3,690 (approx. £3,310), zrc1904.com

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 600m water resistance

• Sellita SW360 automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve

• £2,949.60, limited to 50 pieces, vertex-watches.com

VERTEX M60 Taormina

The original M60 AquaLion was already a bit of a departure from Vertex’s mandate of Dirty Dozen revivals and field watches, and now they’ve gone even more off their beaten path with a bright, eye-catching blue version. Not exactly militaristic, but lovely. It still has all those military touches (the notched bezel and knurled crown inspired by a Bren gun), so it’s still very Vertex. More importantly, it’s no bad thing to see the British brand broadening their horizons. Its solid specs sheet with 600m water resistance is the icing on the cake.

TAG HEUER

Aquaracer

It might not be ingrained in the same automotive heritage as the rest of their collections, but TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer’s a worthy contender in the realm normally dominated by watches like the Seamaster 300m. I’d even say its wavy dial is a better-looking alternative. Professional specs, a magnified date window, and a COSC movement, it ticks every box for a proper watch from a proper watchmaker. The Aquaracer was overdue a revamp and TAG Heuer nailed it.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• TH31-00 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve

• £3,650, tagheuer.com

BELL & ROSS

BR-03 Diver Full Lum Ceramic

Reading the time in the dark of the underwater abyss is no easy task. It’s why every diver worth the name has lume aplenty across their indexes and numerals. Bell & Ross on the other hand take that to the logical extreme with the BR-03 Diver Full Lum Ceramic. The whole dial here glows in the dark, so reading it is never an issue. Sleeping with it on your bedside table might be. Paired with an ultra-hard ceramic case on a superbly comfortable rubber strap, it’s a cool watch during the day that comes alive at night.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm ceramic case with 300m water resistance

• BR-CAL.302-1 automatic movement with 54-hour power reserve

• £4,700, bellross.com

TUDOR

Pelagos Ultra

One of the most talked-about pieces at Watches & Wonders 2025 was Tudor’s descent into the crushing heart of the ocean with their upgraded Pelagos. 1,000m of water resistance makes Tudor’s proper tool watch collection the deep diver it was always destined to be, amped up by a clean, utilitarian dial and a lightweight titanium case. At 43mm it’s bigger than most fans of the brand will be used to, but it deserves every inch of wrist space you can give it.

THE DETAIL:

• 43mm titanium case with 1,000m water resistance

• MT5612-U automatic movement with 65-hour power reserve

• £5,070, tudorwatch.com

PANERAI

Luminor Marina Titanio

The Marina is Panerai’s best-selling model for good reason; it’s a proper diver that embodies the brand’s Italian naval heritage. This year though they decided to give it a tweak, making it slimmer, with greater depth resistance and a host of quality-of-life upgrades, without upping the price to match. So in 2025 you’re getting more watch for your money, something I never thought I’d be able to write. This handsome titanium version with a dark green dial is possibly the coolest. Now’s a good time to be a Paneristo.

THE DETAIL:

• 44mm titanium case with 500m water resistance

• P.980 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £8,400, panerai.com

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Deep Diver Legacy Edition

While I like the Aston Martin editions, it’s been a while since Girard-Perregaux built something that got me genuinely excited. The Deep Diver Legacy Edition has ended that dry spell. Based on a 1969 archival model, the whole watch from its cushion-adjacent case to its resort-ready orange and blue colour scheme screams retro fun. It’s the watch equivalent of a vintage travel poster for the Cote d’Azure, with a glamorous price tag to match.

THE DETAIL:

• 40.3mm titanium case with 200m water resistance

• GP03300 automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve

• £12,900, limited to 350 pieces, girard-perregaux.com

THOR SVABOE

THE WATCH

CROWN: SMALL PART, BIG ROLE

— In a world where every detail matters, we sometimes miss the importance of what is right in front of us. Most watch enthusiasts will recognise that the case, the dial, and the hands will play a leading role in defining the presence of a watch. But we don’t always give enough credit to less obvious parts like the crown. Most importantly, the crown is the direct link to the heart of your watch. Traditionally, it allows you to wind the mainspring and set the time and date. The crown also operates the different additional complications your watch might come equipped with. It’s a feature that plays an increasingly important role in today’s world of horology.

But its importance reaches far beyond its functional properties. Its size, shape, finish, placement, and style are pivotal in a watch’s overall composition. A watch’s design speaks not only to function – winding, setting, sealing – but also to how a brand chooses to communicate aesthetics, ergonomics, and legacy. So, let’s dive into the world of watch crowns and discover why they play such a crucial role.

To understand crowns, we must first understand the two main crown mechanisms. The first is the classic push/pull crown. It’s the most common and straightforward crown mechanism. It’s designed to be pulled out to one or more positions to adjust the time and the date, and pushed back in to secure the setting. You will traditionally find this type on many dress watches and casual pieces. Push/pull crowns are easy to use and perfect for casual everyday wear.

The second crown mechanism is the screwdown crown, which is designed to screw into the case tube, creating a tighter seal. It is the preferred option if you want enhanced durability, water resistance, and worry-free daily use. You will typically find these on all tool watches. While screw-down crowns provide an extra layer of protection against moisture and dust, they require more careful handling. To operate it, you must unscrew the crown before pulling it out to set the time, operate the complications, or wind the watch. Additionally, you will often find crown guards on tool watches to protect the crown from damage during wear.

The opposite of a crown with crown guards is a recessed crown. Traditionally, semi- and fully recessed crowns were used for self-winding watches, as you would not need to hand-wind the watch if you wore it daily. You would likely only operate the crown to adjust the time or date. Additionally, a recessed crown is better protected against potential accidents and offers sleeker lines to the overall design. That said, the crown is one of the standout elements on most of today’s watches, so a fully recessed crown can appear as though something is missing.

THE STYLES OF CROWNS

As crowns have become such defining elements in the aesthetics of a watch, let’s take a closer look at some of the most important crown styles we know today. While the styles are often rooted in practicality, they have become part the overall aesthetic of modern watches.

RIDGED CROWN

A ridged crown is the most common crown. The ridges obviously provide grip but also define a watch’s design. Rolex famously experimented with the size of its ridged crowns for its Submariner. It resulted in the famous Submariner ‘Big Crown’ models that stand out immediately. They are the perfect example of a practical solution that defines a watch’s overall aesthetic. The refinement and style of the ridges also play a big part in the overall presence of a watch.

KNURLED CROWN

A knurled crown is another common crown style. While the pattern of straight, angled, or crossed lines was created to provide grip, it looks completely different from ridged crowns. The style is often more refined and modern, but it’s not a style you see nearly as often as rigid crowns.

FACETED CROWN

A faceted crown is defined by its angular shape, which provides grip. A great example is the hexagonal crown of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Faceted crowns often do not have a machined pattern for grip, but because of their shape, they are easy to operate.

CONICAL CROWN

A conical crown is defined by its pointed or rounded cone shape. While they are often elegantly shaped, they also need ridges to provide grip. The conical shape can be used in two ways. The first is sloping outwards, as often seen on classic watches like several Cartier models. There are also conical crowns that slope inwards like the crown on the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch.

Ridged

Knurled

Faceted

Conical

“

The French brand uses the gemstone to indicate what material is used for the case, which is a clever way of giving the crown even more significance ”

ONION CROWN

Another traditional crown shape is the onion crown. It originated in the development of classic pilot’s watches. The oversized onion-shaped crowns would be easier for pilots to operate with their gloves on. As such, you will often see them used today for vintage-inspired pilot’s watches. However, some brands have made it part of their brand identity, like Chronoswiss.

CABOCHON CROWN

The cabochon crown is not defined by its crown shape but rather by the polishing technique used to create the gemstone integrated into the crown. This is done by polishing a gemstone to a smooth, convex surface so it becomes an integral part of the crown’s shape. The brand famous for using cabochon crowns is Cartier. The French brand uses the gemstone to indicate what material is used for the case, which is a clever way of giving the crown even more significance.

PARMENTIER CROWN

The Parmentier crown consists of a small cap that screws down over a special, smaller crown. This smaller crown usually acts like a traditional crown. However, some examples have been known to use the cap to operate the crown. The Parmentier crown was designed to add extra waterproof protection to a dive watch. As the screw-down crown was far more practical, you will only see Parmentier crowns on vintage watches or reissues of classic dive watches.

CROWN PROTECTING DEVICES

The Parmentier crown leads us to crownprotecting devices. On most modern watches, the crown is protected by crown guards that are an integral part of the case design. But over the decades, several brands have created special protective add-ons to shield the crown during wear, especially during deep-sea diving. Panerai’s typical lever crown protector for its Luminor and Submersible collections is the most well-known. Another great example is the large screw-down lock that Omega uses for its famous Ploprof dive watches. Those are just two examples of the many protective devices that watch brands have developed over time.

Another remarkable crown construction comes courtesy of Graham Watches. For the brand’s Chronofighter Vintage, the brand has created a thumb-operated trigger positioned on the left flank of the case that facilitates quick operation of the chronograph functions. This remarkable engineering feature was inspired by military pilot’s watches from the 1940s.

As you can see, crowns offer a great variety in functionality and design. This perfectly shows how they have become so much more than practical devices to operate a watch. The functional purpose is still in development, as Audemars Piguet shows with the introduction of its new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.

Thanks to smart concepts and clever engineering, the crown operates a series of functions if the crown is pulled out. Pushing the crown back in activates an additional set of functions that allow you to fully operate the perpetual calendar without additional corrective buttons. It’s a great example of how the development of crowns has not come to a halt over time.

Crowns have become an important part of a watch’s overall design. If designed well and proportioned perfectly, the crown is distinctive in a watch’s presence. The opposite is true if a crown is too small or too big or doesn’t fit the overall design. The crown can elevate a watch’s design despite its often humble dimensions. As such, the crown is a small part with a big role.

A number of watch brands have developed crown protective devices over the years, but perhaps the most well-known is Panerai’s lever crown protector for the Luminor and Submersible collections

DIALLED IN

Looking beyond the usual sports to help further watch innovation

— Words by — CHRIS HALL

~

There has been an early outbreak of summer weather in the UK – it’s ok, I’m sure by the time you read this it will be raining – and it has turned my attention to the world of sport. The Great British Summer is a composite of sporting institutions: test matches at Lords, Wimbledon, Royal Ascot, maybe even some polo if you move in the right circles. Millions of us will be getting back on the bike, dusting off our golf clubs or even braving Britain’s waters, and it occurs to me that our beloved watch brands might be missing a trick. For an industry that talks a lot about sports, is there really enough effort being made to create interesting watches for sports fans?

Did you know that Ulysse Nardin once made a countdown chronograph that ran backwards for up to ten minutes, and when it reaches zero it immediately and seamlessly starts counting up to time the race?

To start with, it seems like the less accessible the sport, the more likely it is to benefit from horological attention. I am a huge fan of regatta chronographs, and think they are underappreciated by fans of mechanical ingenuity because of their connection to a relatively niche sport. Did you know, for example, that Ulysse Nardin once made a countdown chronograph that ran backwards for up to ten minutes, and when it reaches zero it immediately and seamlessly starts counting up to time the race? Panerai’s got a calibre that jumps the hour and minute hands backwards for a theoretically unlimited amount of countdown time. Sailing chronos also look terrific –check out the 1970s Omega Memosail, or a Frederique Constant Yacht Timer – and this really shouldn’t be wasted on the minuscule handful of people who actually know what tacking and gybing mean.

Partly, this is about reclaiming the sports watch from the dull tyranny of the tech giants. Sure, fitness trackers are very capable and they certainly have their place – I’ve got a TAG Heuer Connected that tells me exactly how far into the rough I’ve shanked it – but the vast majority are extremely boring, both to look at and to talk about. You could never say the same of the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge, or the Breva Anemometer – a watch with a pop-out wind speed meter that could tell a skier, or cyclist, how fast they’re zipping downhill. What about a G-force meter that tells a tennis player how hard they’ve hit the ball? Richard Mille is halfway there with that one. Cricketers could use a variation of IWC’s shock-absorber case, coupled with a countdown timer running to the next break (you could call it the tea-timer). Snooker players could rack up their breaks on a one-directional bezel graded from 0-147. Glashutte Original and Hublot have both dabbled with mechanical score-counters, the former in quite a formal, solemn design; the latter for golf. License that idea to a watch brand with a bit more of a flexible spirit, add some customised bezels with different scales for different sports’ scoring systems, and away you go. What about a bi-retrograde dial design so you can see at a glance which of two teams is in the lead? Why not ditch the decompression scales in favour of something that explains the points system for basketball, or rugby, or American football? Come on Switzerland, these are guaranteed slam-dunks/ home-runs/open goals/gimmes… Don’t kick this one into touch, I beg you.

Nomos Glashutte Club Campus Deep Pink

36mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

Alpha manual-wind movement with 43-hour power reserve

£1,380, nomos-glashuette.com

Photography by CALISTA EDWARDS & TEDDY CLARK

TAG Heuer Carrera Date

36mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

Calibre 7 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve

£2,900, tagheuer.com

Farer

Aquamatic Nazaré

38.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

Sellita SW220-1 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

£875, farer.com

40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

754-1 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve £1,750, oris.ch

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Beaucroft Element Sunset Orange

39.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

£649, beaucroftwatches.com

Munro Juniper

37.5mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance

Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

£499, clemencewatches.com

Clemence

WORDS: Charlie Thomas

LIFE’S A BEACH

Summer is here and with it a good reason for a new warm weather wardrobe. Whether you’re lounging by a pool on the Cote d’Azure – to be seen darling, not to swim – chilling on a white sand beach or heading to a rooftop bar for an al fresco cocktail, you’ll want to stay looking – and feeling – cool in the heat. Well, we have you covered better than factor 50.

↓ SHORTS

Stenstroms White Terry Shorts, £119

(*) A good pair of summer shorts should be as finely tailored as any formal shirt, so who better to do so than heritage Swedish tailor Stenstroms? To keep things comfortable, this lightweight Terry pair opt for a drawstring and elasticated waist, but the crisp white silhouette still oozes Cote d’Azure glamour. stenstroms.com

↑ SUNGLASSES

Moscot Lemtosh sunglasses, £345

(*) Now with its fifth-generation family owners at the helm, Moscot has been one of America’s, and specifically New York’s, finest eyewear brands for over 100 years. Each pair is meticulously handcrafted using Italian acetate, while real glass lenses offer supreme vision. This pair has a classic keyhole design, flattering most face shapes including King Charles III, who is a noted wearer of the Lemtosh. moscot.com

Poolside clean and classic

← SHIRT

Our Legacy Box Shirt Shortsleeve, £230

(*) Our Legacy have come a long way from their graphic tees, and the camp collar and light Italian boucle construction of their boxy, short-sleeved shirt whispers classical poolside glamour. With a textured knit and tonal mother-ofpearl buttons, it’s the most nuanced way to finish your clean, crisp summer whites. ourlegacy.com

← SNEAKERS

Common Projects

Original Achilles White Sneakers, £340

(*) Common Projects’ cult status comes from their clean minimalism, so if you’re in need of something as staple as white sneakers, they’re a good place to start. This lightweight pair are built to last and while they’ll take you wherever you want to go, they’re the perfect fit to slip on when you need to get off your lounger for a refill. mrporter.com

← T-SHIRT

Ron Dorff T-shirt, £75

(*) A classic white T-shirt is a no-brainer. It’s incredibly easy to wear and its white shade repels the sun’s heat, keeping you cooler for longer. This one by Ron Dorff is made from the brand’s ultra-soft 100% cotton, while the two lacquered eyelets at the hem differentiate it from its competition. uk.rondorff.com

← BAG

Antler Urban Core tote bag, £120

(*) For its take on the classic tote bag, Antler has crafted their version from hard-wearing, water resistant Cordura fabric, ensuring it’ll withstand whatever you throw at it on the beach or elsewhere. Its main compartment can be zipped up to keep whatever you store inside safe, while its handy exterior pockets and discreet back pocket offer extra levels of practicality. antler.co.uk

↓ SWIM SHORTS

Mr Marvis Escher Swims, £109

(*) A grown-up take on your favourite, fish-covered childhood swims, Mr Marvis’ latest prints draw directly from MC Escher. Sure, still plenty of fish, but the mesmerisingly tessellating school’s a world away from Finding Nemo. Made from quick-drying twill and featuring a hidden zipped pocket so an errant wave won’t lock you out your room, they’re a cool, colourful soon-to-be swimwear staple. mrmarvis.com

Still plenty of fish, but the mesmerisingly tessellating school’s a world away from Finding Nemo

↑ TROUSERS

Rise and Fall linen suit trousers, £150

(*) When it comes to refined, everyday wardrobe classics, you can’t go wrong with Rise & Fall. The brand is known for its relaxed overshirts and tees, but its trousers deserve special mention too. This pleated pair, made from 100% linen and with a relaxed, tapered fit, are perfect for throwing on for an evening stroll back from the beach, perhaps stopping in a bar or two. riseandfall.co

← SHIRT

Walker Slater ivory linen shirt, £95

(*) Walker Slater might be more well known for its tailored suits, but the British brand’s shirts are also of impressive quality. For summer, the tweed specialists have tuned to luxurious linen with this shirt, which comes with a classic point collar and a slim, flattering fit. Finished in a neutral ivory tone, it’s perfect for throwing on over some swim shorts after a dip.

walkerslater.com

↓ HAT

Wax London sports cap, £35

(*) Whether you want a bit of protection from the sun, or you want to avoid awkward beach hair, a good cap is an essential. This one by Wax London has a bi-colour design, with an ecru top and khaki bill, as well as the brand’s logo embroidered up top.

waxlondon.com

↓ SANDALS

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers French military sandals, £140

(*) Blackhorse Lane Ateliers’ jeans are among the best you’ll find anywhere, and are all made by hand at their factory in Walthamstow, London. Less known are the brand’s sandals, which are made in a familyrun factory in southwest Turkey. This pair of French military-style sandals come with calf leather uppers and a solid, double-stack sole, making them ideal for strolls along the promenade. blackhorselane.com

keeping cool under the sun

The WORDS:

FE RRARI Speciale

LIGHTER, FASTER, AND EVEN MORE POWERFUL, THE NEW FERRARI 296 SPECIALE IS A PRANCING HORSE ON A RAMPAGE

Mark Smyth

In the world of collectible Ferraris, two niches are most venerated of all: the once-in-a-generation supercars – GTO, F40, F50, Enzo, LaFerrari – and the ultra-exclusive Icona models. The predictable snag is all now command seven-figure sums, but thankfully for those whose pockets aren’t quite as deep, there’s another, more accessible alternative: the special-series V8.

The line began with the Challenge Stradale in 2003, which took the aggression of Ferrari GT racing cars and tamed it – if only a little – for the road. The 430 Scuderia, 458 Speciale and 488 Pista all followed and remain incredibly collectible.

Today these models start from £200k or so, though there are some pretty big swings within that

ballpark, and even far outside. Limited-edition open-top versions are a case in point, with a 458 Speciale A advertised for £828k at the time of writing.

Now there’s a new model to pique the interest of keen drivers and collectors alike: the Ferrari 296 Speciale, a car that promises to crank up the excitement of the already brilliant 296 GTB it’s based on, while picking up where its predecessors left off.

Motorsport know-how once again plays a starring role – both the 296 GT3 and 296 Challenge racecars donate a few ideas, and there’s tech transfer from Ferrari’s Le Mans and Formula 1 programmes too.

Compared with the previous models, the big difference this time

The Speciale is a plug-in hybrid V6, not a V8. For some people that’s a little controversial but the Speciale is a long way from going soft

is that – like the 296 GTB – the Speciale is a plug-in hybrid V6, not a V8. For some people that’s a little controversial but the Speciale is a long way from going soft.

Its 3.0-litre twin-turbo V6 and plug-in electric system has been turned up to a combined 880bhp –not only a 50bhp increase over the standard model, but the biggest ever power jump between specialseries generations by far. In fact, even the racing models are less potent than the road car, if only because racing rules restrict them and the extra 180hp kick of the hybrid system is removed.

Gearshifts promise to be sharper and even quicker, thanks to a deliberate torque cut immediately after each change, a new single-exit exhaust liberates a more primal growl from the V6, and Ferrari

Advanced technology sits alongside Ferrari might in the 296 Speciale, as it can glide around in EV mode for up to 16 miles of near-silent running and features an additional 20% of aerodynamic downforce for an even racier feel on the road

In Qualify mode, an e-brain learns racetracks lap by lap, adding extra punch precisely where it’ll slash tenths from your time

promises intelligent performance too – in Qualify mode, an e-brain even learns racetracks lap by lap, adding extra punch precisely where it’ll slash tenths from your time.

The rest of the formula is more familiar, if no less tantalising with 60kg less weight in part thanks to an engine that’s some 9kg lighter, and snug carbon fibre seats that shed 5kg each. Then there’s the 20% extra aerodynamic downforce, partly generated by the Speciale’s distinctive wings and vast channel that runs through the centre of the front bumper and out of the bonnet (an aero damper in Ferrari speak).

And while the Speciale can’t run slicks like a racecar, it does get a suspension set-up inspired by them (with titanium springs and Multimatic dampers) and stickier

Michelin Cup 2 tyres that are optimised for the dry (and so-so in the wet).

The payoff is a lap time of 1min 19sec around the Ferrari test track – an astonishing 2.5 seconds quicker than the 488 Pista, itself no slouch. And yet the Speciale can still glide around in EV mode for up to 16 miles of near-silent running for flexibility that’s far beyond its predecessors.

How the Speciale fares in terms of retaining its value or even appreciating wildly like some of its illustrious predecessors remains to be seen, especially as the standard 296 GTB represents such good value on the used market. But given the ingredients Ferrari is working with here, it’s unlikely to be anything but an extremely special car to drive on road or track.

The latest addition to Ferrari’s special series line is 60kg lighter and boasts an additional 50bhp on the standard model, making it one of the most electrifying models in the range

THE SPECIAL-SERIES FERRARI V8S: A COLLECTOR’S GUIDE

Dan Baines of luxury specialists Top555 talks us through the previous specialseries V8s. ‘They’re all blue-chip cars,’ he says. ‘If you’re smart, you’d buy one of each and sit on them’

2003: CHALLENGE STRADALE

~ The one that started it all. Inspired by Ferrari Challenge and FIA GT racers, the Challenge Stradale carved 110kg from the 360 Modena, sharpened its chassis, added carbon-ceramic brakes ,and made 425bhp feel rawer than ever. Dan calls it, “probably closest in character” to Ferrari’s iconic seven-figure F40, which is code for a raw, uncompromising and unbelievably exciting drive. “Ferrari produced only 1,288; many have disappeared into collections so you don’t see so many on the market.” Prices now stretch from £200k to £250k. For such a significant Ferrari, that increasingly looks good value.

2007: 430 SCUDERIA

~ Developed with help from Michael Schumacher, the 430 Scuderia evolved the formula with 510bhp, smarter electronic aids, and a special damper mode that made it far more usable. Launched into the financial crisis, before the collector market for these cars really took off, the Scuderia was a slow burn. Values have climbed from a low of £120k or so, but today it offers value: starting at £150k, with the best examples nearing £200k. You can almost double that for the limited-edition 16M Spider.

“

Ferrari produced only 1,288; many have disappeared into collections so you don’t see so many on the market

”

2013: 458 SPECIALE

~ The 458 Speciale is arguably the most iconic of all – witness the fact that when collectors asked Ferrari when the new hardcore 296 was coming, they instinctively called it the Speciale. The name stuck. While numbers weren’t limited, the 458 Speciale is venerated for having the ultimate evolution of Ferrari’s naturally aspirated (ie non-turbo) V8 engine – a 4.5-litre screamer good for 9000rpm and 605bhp. Combined with a dual-clutch gearbox for the first time, this is a vivid, relentless powertrain. Baines notes that while the Speciale was originally priced around £230k, values quickly shot up to £410k and have now settled around £350k. The Speciale A Spider can more than double that.

2018: 488 PISTA

~ The 488 Pista introduced turbocharging to the equation, but while power shot up to 720bhp, some purists prefer the Speciale’s unfiltered induction. Production numbers are also thought to be higher, though it’s hard to know for sure. While this can count against the Pista, it remains a sensational car to drive, and better value than a Speciale. “Prices range from £255k for high-mileage examples to around £290k for low-mileage cars,” advises Baines. “Plus I think it’s the best looking of all the special-series Ferrari V8s.”

• Just because it’s the summer that doesn’t mean the British weather will clear up long enough for you to break out the barbecue. But fear not, London’s dining scene is full of fantastic grills, open fire kitchens, and at-table barbecues for you to enjoy the smoky, rich, intense flavour you love, without all the hassle of fighting periodic rain.

R E S TAU R A N T S

Barbecue Restaurants

CUE POINT

Ely’s Yard, 15 Hanbury Street, Spitalfields, E1 6QR

Another Smokestak alumnus, Joshua Moroney, is the head chef at Cue Point bringing his wealth of knowledge to his own venture alongside Mursal Saiq. Their goal is to make barbeque accessible to all, catering for diverse dietary requirements including halal, vegan, and more. They bring a global flair to their British ingredients with strong influences from Afghanistan as well as iconic meat locales such as Argentina. Book at cue-point.co.uk

SMOKESTAK

35 Sclater Street, Shoreditch, E1 6LB

Smokestak is in some regards the grandfather of London’s barbeque scene. Several chefs from other restaurants in this article have spent time working at Smokestak, perfecting their skills in its highly regarded kitchen. The menu is an ode to barbecue classics with charred pork belly ribs, aged beef and pork fat sausage, pulled pork, and beef brisket available as a single serving or for the whole table (requires 24-hour notice). The brisket is the cornerstone of the menu, smoked for up to 16 hours to make it beautifully tender.

Book at smokestack.co.uk

Book at kolae.com “ Kolae chicken skewers are joined on the menu by smoked mackerel relish and Phuket-style soy-braised Middle White pork belly and ribs

KOLAE

6 Park Street, Borough Market, SE1 9AB

Kolae is named after a style of grill from southern Thailand that makes use of a curry-like coconut marinade before grilling over an open flame. Kolae chicken skewers are joined on the menu by smoked mackerel relish and Phuket-style soy-braised Middle White pork belly and ribs. The restaurant is spread across three floors of an old coach house with a variety of seating available from the private top floor to countertop dining and a handful of tables reserved for walk-ins.

LAGOM

17 Bohemia Place, Hackney, E8 1DU

Lagom is one of those out-of-the-way kind of restaurants that your foodie friend somehow knows about. Situated inside Hackney Church Brewery Co, it’s operated by Elliot Cunningham, one of those aforementioned alumni of Smokestak, and they recommend booking up to a month in advance if you want to attend the Sunday lunch. On the barbecue side of things, they offer smoked chicken, smash burgers, and a selection of specials including beef skewers and grilled mushrooms.

Book at hackneychurchbrew.co

EKSTEDT AT THE YARD

3-5 Great Scotland Yard, Westminster, SW1A 2HN

Ekstedt at The Yard opened in 2021 as TV chef and judge Niklas Ekstedt’s first restaurant in the UK. The focus is on open fire cooking with a chef’s table dining experience that features dishes like hay smoked veal sweetbread and pine smoked lamb. Ekstedt is Swedish and so the flavours draw heavy inspiration from Scandinavia, a region well known for its love of meat and rustic cooking. Book at ekstedtattheyard.com

©

“

The one Michelin star restaurant is known for its impressive four metre long grill that allows for the use of different woods for different dishes ”

 KOBA

11 Rathbone Street, Fitzrovia, W1T 1NA

One of the rapidly growing areas of London’s barbecue scene comes from Korea. At a Korean BBQ the grilling take place right in front of your eyes because in many regards you are the chef. There are grills built into the tables, giving you complete control over how well-done you want the marinated meats to be done, along with a range of vegetables. Koba is the perfect example, having been a fixture of London dining since 2005 with their authentic Korean table dining.

Book at kobalondon.com

 HUMO

12 St George Street, Mayfair, W1S 2FB

Humo offer a fine dining approach to barbecue, or as they put it ‘fire dining’. The one Michelin star restaurant is known for its impressive four metre long grill that allows for the use of different woods for different dishes. It’s also equipped to use different parts of the fire to cook in the embers, flames or smoke, to unlock the perfect flavours. The menu makes use of seasonal British produce with influences from Japan – due to being seasonal, it’s always evolving. Book at humolondon.com

WORDS: Lisa Young

A LUXURY TRAIN JOURNEY THROUGH THE GUTS OF THE AUSTRALIAN OUTBACK

The train’s sleek silver body stretched like a metallic serpent, extending beyond both ends of Darwin’s long railway platform. It was a warm September morning and we were about to embark on The Ghan Expedition.

With a firm jolt, The Ghan’s striking red locomotive began to pull its 36 shimmering carriages away. The train measures 914 metres and at one point, I spotted the chef travelling efficiently along the platform by bicycle to get from one end to the other.

As the train slowly gathered momentum, the carriages swayed gently and the rivets groaned, wheels clattering against the polished steel tracks.

We were setting off on a journey through Australia’s rugged heart –travelling from the tropical north to the southern coast, tracing a route that forms the very spine of the continent. Along the way, we would encounter breathtaking natural landscapes and places rich in Aboriginal heritage.

Before hitting the rails, I’d spent a few days exploring Darwin and the Northern Territory (aka the Top End), where I’d seen big saltwater crocodiles (‘salties’), dingoes and eagles, all sorts of unfamiliar insects, and reptiles. I’d visited Wangi Falls, a segmented waterfall in Litchfield National Park, south of Darwin, for a wild swim, immersing myself in the crystal-clear, bracingly cold water.

Leaving Darwin behind, our route would wind through the storied towns of Katherine, Alice Springs, and Coober Pedy, on the way to our final stop on the southern shores: Adelaide.

I travelled in one of the Platinum service suites, with a beautiful doublesized compartment of my own with expansive window views from both sides of the train.

The Platinum Club Carriage is the perfect spot for sipping cocktails and listening to Outback stories from the crew. There’s no end to the hospitality on The Ghan – all food and drinks are included in Platinum Service and champagne is on tap.

The food and wine served on board varies according to the region you’re

travelling through. We were served unusual dishes including grilled kangaroo loin; smoked kingfish with beetroot; grilled crocodile-tail fillet; and scrumptious grilled saltwater barramundi with coconut sauce – a fish for which the Northern Territory is well known.

Each night, when I returned to my cabin, my personal steward had discreetly transformed the spacious lounge-style suite (with moveable table and ottomans) into an inviting bedroom, with crisp white linens and plump pillows… and a nightcap! Rocking rhythmically over the tracks, I was soon soothed to sleep.

Our first stop in Katherine, 300 kilometres south of Darwin, I took a helicopter flight to Nitmiluk National Park and flew over the Katherine Gorge, low enough to appreciate its breathtaking gorges and extraordinary sandstone cliff faces. The name Nitmiluk translates to ‘cicada country’ in the local Jawoyn language. While the gorge was shaped by an ancient earthquake, the Jawoyn story of Bulan, the rainbow serpent, carving a path through the rock is far more captivating.

Another off-train excursion includes visiting the Cutta Cutta Caves with its glittering limestone formations of stalactites and stalagmites. The local Jawoyn Indigenous people named the caves Cutta Cutta (meaning ‘many stars’) as they believe the caves are where the stars rest during the day.

Throughout the night, the train travelled 1,183 kilometres to the remote town of Alice Springs. I rose with the sun and watched it light up the red ochre Outback, the coarse spinifex plants, and the desert oaks that lined the train tracks.

The flat, sun-scorched land offers many reds and browns but Alice Springs brought greenery – more than I expected and the weather much cooler, chilly almost, until the temperature quickly climbed to a comfortable 23°C. And even when the landscape is at its most sun-baked, it’s a world of desert dwellers in the form of plants, animals, and human life.

From Alice Springs, a thrillingly scenic 450-kilometre flight in a light aircraft (an optional extra) over harsh red terrain took me to the remarkable sandstone monolith of Uluru (formerly

Measuring in at close to a kilometre in length, the 36-carriage train will take passengers on The Ghan Expedition from Australia’s tropical north to the southern coast, covering nearly 3,000 kilometres during the four-day, three-night trip

“While the gorge was shaped by an ancient earthquake, the Jawoyn story of Bulan, the rainbow serpent, carving a path through the rock is far more captivating”

The terrain might be rough and imposing outside, but within the Platinum Club Carriage it can be absorbed in comfort – and with a glass of champagne in hand

TRAIN FACTS AND INFORMATION

The Ghan cruises along at an average speed of 95 kilometres per hour. ————

— The Platinum Club carriage is decorated to give passengers a sense of comfort, with timber flooring, brass fittings, quartzite table tops, and large windows to make it easy to spot wildlife outside.

All Platinum Service suites include Bollinger champagne, Grey Goose vodka and Glenfiddich

whisky, Australian Jurlique toiletries... and edible treats by award-winning Adelaide chocolatier, Bracegirdle’s House of Fine Chocolate.

The Ghan Expedition is more than a train ride – it’s a luxurious four-day, three-night adventure spanning 2,979 kilometres across the Australian Outback. Operated by Journey Beyond, it’s one of the world’s most legendary rail journeys – blending romance, exploration and comfort. It runs between March and November and offers passengers a window into the soul of Australia.

The Ghan weighs 1,768 tonnes and has 36 carriages, plus two locomotives and uses 40,000 litres of diesel for the journey, as well as carrying 3,000 litres of water for each carriage. It can take 49 crew members and up to 300 guests in both Gold or Platinum Service.

The train was named for the pioneering cameleers, many from Afghanistan who helped open up the inland of Australia. The first Ghan departed Adelaide in 1929 en route to Alice Springs, at the centre of Australia. It wasn’t until 2004 that a modern track stretched all the way to Darwin.

“This incredibly sacred site is a prominent feature in the dreamtime stories and beliefs of the Anangu people, who are the traditional owners of the area”

known as Ayers Rock). Uluru is located within Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s recognised for its natural and cultural significance.

Leaving the plane, we stepped into the heat and were greeted by slowmoving flies determined to annoy us for the duration of our guided walking tour around the base of the 550-million-year-old natural sandstone landmark – a sacred site for the Yankunytjatjara and Pitjantjatjara people of the region.

For many, Uluru is not just a rock, it is a living, breathing, cultural landscape. This incredibly sacred site is a prominent feature in the dreamtime stories and beliefs of the Anangu people, who are the traditional owners of the area.

Before our plane returned to Alice Springs, we circled the monolith a couple of times for a close-up view of the top, where basins can form waterfalls after heavy Outback rainfall. Every day, hundreds gather at the base to watch the sandstone monolith graduate from a glowing orange to plum red and eventually purple.

The Ghan Expedition 2026 all-inclusive Platinum prices from AUS $6,790.00 (approx. £3,275) to AUS $9,590.00 (approx. £4,600) per person.

In April 2026, The Ghan will unveil two new luxury suites: the Aurora and Australis Suites, setting a new standard in

Australian rail travel. The first of their kind in the country, they will offer a unique and opulent experience. The Australis Suite will claim the title of the most luxurious accommodation ever offered on an Australian train, with private butler service, plush bed linens, a bespoke pillow menu, and access to a range of exclusive Off Train Experiences

• The Aurora and Australis Suites launching in 2026: • Australis Suite 2026: March

& November AUS $16,990; April & September to October AUS$17,490; May to August AUS $18,890.

• Aurora Suite 2026: March & November AUS $11,290; April, September & October AUS $11,690; May to August AUS $12,590.

Additional privileges will include entry to the Platinum Club lounge and dining carriage, private chauffeur service at the beginning and end of the journey, and unlimited luggage allowance.

In the evening, all the train’s passengers were invited to an open-air dinner at the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station on the outskirts of the town. There is no light pollution, so when you look to the sky, all you see is a mass of bright stars, planets and the occasional satellite. Serenaded by a local country music band, we dined al fresco at large circular tables, with free-flowing wine… even camel rides were on offer!

We crossed into South Australia on day three, the boundless Outback sky erupting in a display of pink hues as sunrise gave way to yet another dazzling morning.

When we reached the small, quirky opal-mining town of Coober Pedy, our train was far too long to fit into the

small town’s station, so we stopped in a siding at Manguri Station, 42 kilometres north of Coober Pedy, in the middle of the Outback. From there, we were transported into town.

Covered with rusty trucks and resembling a post-apocalyptic wasteland, this hot and fossilised landscape is flat, albeit for termitelike mounds and pits created by independent opal prospectors. Most of the world’s opal is found in this area and Coober Pedy (Umoona) is full of independent miners looking for their fortune.

One local miner told me why he lives here. “Hope, hope that one day you’ll discover the perfect opal that may just be on your patch of ground and will turn your life around for good”.

The town is officially one of the hottest places on the planet, with temperatures reaching 50°C in the summer – and that’s in the shade. Enterprising locals escape the soaring desert temperatures by living underground, in spaces resembling giant rabbit burrows... underground it’s much cooler, at around 20°C.

We visited a section of the infamous Dingo Fence, which spans an impressive 5,614 kilometres, crossing through Queensland, New South Wales and South Australia... it’s longer than the Great Wall of China. Constructed in the 1880s, it’s the second longest man-made structure on Earth. Its primary purpose was to keep dingoes away from the fertile southeastern regions of Australia and to safeguard the sheep herds of southern Queensland. Today, it stops about 95% of dingoes crossing the country.

At the Aboriginal heritage site, Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, we explored extraordinary ancient rock formations. I recognised the landscape, as it was featured in the film The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

Our next and final stop was Adelaide, South Australia’s cosmopolitan capital and the end of the line. Beyond, the mighty Southern Ocean roared, the next land mass is Antarctica.

We stepped down from train with a sense of achievement and wonder – a feeling that we had done something unique and special.

There are so many reasons why Adelaide is a great place to visit any time of year. It’s a young, vibrant Australian city, rich in recent history and with a passion for fine living. It boasts a superb climate, great food and a thriving cultural scene.

To travel on one of the world’s iconic trains, The Ghan, is turning a trek through Australia’s awesome Outback into an unforgettable desert cruise in unparalleled style.

Once known as Ayres Rock, today the sandstone monolith of Uluru remains a popular tourist attraction, especially at sunrise or sunset when it changes from a glowing orange to plum red and eventually purple

MEN of INFLUENCE:

BJOERN ALTMAN

THE DESIGNER, ILLUSTRATOR AND ECLECTIC CREATIVE ON CARTIER, SATURN AND MANHOLE COVERS. REALLY.

The chances are that you’ve come across Bjoern Altman on Instagram – at least, if you’re as perennially locked into cool watch-related content as we are. In 2020, he burst onto the scene with slick, cool watch illustrations that showed not just an in-depth understanding of watches, but of all things aesthetic.

Since then he’s published books on the ephemera of infrastructure, designed jewellery, and works on creative projects for brands across watches and interior design. He’s a multi-hyphenate in the truest sense, and we sat down for a chat.

“

Fast forward 10 years and I saw one. Good price too. The only catch: it was in Argentina. I decided it needed to be now or never, so I bought it ”

What was the last watch you bought?

That was an Omega Seamaster chronograph from 1966 with the calibre 321, which has a story behind it. I first had one in 2014, however in quite poor condition. The crystal, crown, and chrono hand were not original and the case was over polished. The case back notches were worn out.

When one of the hands fell off, I sent it to Omega for a service. It came back looking fantastic, but as I wasn’t used to wearing nice watches yet, I felt it was too precious, and I was afraid of damaging it. So, I sold it.

I kept regretting this decision and sometimes looked for one like this becoming available again. However, after the re-release of the 321 by Omega the prices had risen considerably, so it seemed impossible to get it again at an affordable price. Fast forward 10 years and I saw one. Good price too. The only catch: it was in Argentina. I decided it needed to be now or never, so I bought it. After a 10-year search and a very long journey a cal 321 Seamaster was finally back in my collection.

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

I also collect chairs and lamps. I think what draws me to these objects is my interest in good design and how the same problem can be solved in many different and interesting ways. A task lamp for instance solves the problem of lighting a desk in a focused and glare-free way, but within this category there are a multitude of designs addressing the same problem.

This is a parallel to watches: a field watch solves the problem of being legible under tough outdoor conditions and within this category we find many solutions from different brands.

It’s then down to our preference which manufacturer we choose –always assuming the designs are equally excellent to begin with.

Speaking of solving the same problem in many different ways: this

An appreciator of design that solves problems in many different ways, Bjoern equally values the illuminating qualities of a lamp as much he does a field watch

Design cues and inspiration are everywhere for Bjoern, even beneath his feet, as shown by his love of manhole covers and his 2022 book, Manhole Covers of the World (above), which features 170 designs from 80 countries

is something we see in manhole cover designs. All the various patterns are meant to give better grip to the surface. – My background is in graphic design, branding, and illustration. I always look around for interesting typography and signs and first noticed an unusual manhole cover design in 2005 when on holiday. I then started to collect photos and asked anyone I knew if they could help me out with photos. These were translated into black and white drawings as the focus was on the variety of patterns. Some of these were reminiscent of the petit tapisserie of the AP Royal Oak – or a particular chocolate. Probably a coincidence, but all of these come from Switzerland.

In 2022 I published these 170 designs from 80 countries in a book with the title Manhole Covers of the World.

What’s at the top of your wishlist?

I think that would be a Cartier Tank Cintrée or a Tank Louis in platinum, probably a modern reference so that it can be worn without worrying about fragility. Platinum not because it’s expensive, but because it’s understated.

What inspires you?

I also work with jewellery – on my own as well as with another jewellery designer – and tend to find inspiration in mythology and natural patterns. We’ve all seen hexagons in honeycombs, basalt columns, crystals, or maybe a tortoise’s shell. What really fascinated me was the hexagon at Saturn’s north pole though – one of its sides is greater than Earth’s diameter (14.500km). Why it is there has not been fully explained yet. Apparently, it has to do with a certain speed of rotation within the weather system. I just love how nature organises itself and how certain basic systems are repeated everywhere throughout our universe.

What is a book, podcast or album that changed the way you think?

Potentially the book, Never Split the Difference by Chris Voss. Everything in life is a negotiation. I find the methods to be quite helpful in business.

Who is a celebrity or person of note that you admire?

Charles and Ray Eames. They managed to design furniture in the 1940s and ‘50s that was so far outside of fashion and design trends that it looks as modern today as it did back then. I find that truly amazing. And what they said about good design is something that always stayed with me since I read it, “the details are not the details. They make the product.” This is true for anything design related, watches too.

What is your ideal long weekend? I tend to get up early and if the weather is nice, I might go to Portobello Market in Notting Hill or some other antiques market, Lewes perhaps. Especially in summer it’s quite nice to be there early and beat the traffic and the crowds. It’s also the best time to find something interesting. I do remember a foggy August morning in Brighton, when I discovered an Anglepoise lamp from 1935, first generation. Quite incredible. This is a story in itself that led to me working on a project for them last year.

What would we always find in your fridge? A bottle of ginger shots. Very healthy.

What is a rule or mantra that you live by?

Per aspera ad astra – through hardship to the stars. I need to elaborate a bit here: in 2020 I lost my job, and it all looked a bit scary with no work available and no one knowing what might come next. I then created my website and also started to post watch illustrations

from June that year onwards. I could have never imagined that two years later I’d be working on projects for Emmanuel Gueit and TAG Heuer.

What does the year ahead look like for you?

My focus will be on work related to the watch industry. There are some exciting things coming up, but I can’t talk about them yet, sadly.

In between swigs of ginger shots, Bjoern can be found appreciating the timeless designs of Charles and Ray Eames, or reading Never Split the Difference by Chris Voss

THE FORGOTTEN ZENITH TOOL WATCH

How a shift in manufacturer focus changed the course of history and left us with a forgotten gem

Words: Tim Vaux

VINTAGE HERO:

The concept of ‘summer’ and vintage watches don’t inherently pair well together. With an increase in humidity, the prospect of spending at least a few weeks in and around the sea, the requirement for some resistance to water and dust is a point of contention for vintage watches. While it’s possible to get vintage diving watches regasketed and tested, few collectors do this in reality, instead favouring a vicarious approach to vintage collecting. There aren’t many types of watches better suited to this than the diving watch, and there is one model which, ever since I learnt about nearly ten years ago, I still think of regularly and question what could have been.

History tells us that ‘Zenith’ and ‘diving watches’ haven’t been regularly matched together. As the brand that owns the trademark for ‘Pilots’ and as a key innovator in the automatic chronograph scene thanks to the El Primero, Zenith never felt the need to follow many of its competitors in an arms race to the ocean depths – but that didn’t stop them trying. Zenith isn’t a brand that comes to mind when considering the history of diving watches. In 2024, the brand brought its diving pedigree into the spotlight with the Defy Revival A3648 and their Extreme Diver, but before this, many of Zenith’s diving watches have remained lesserknown, quirky, and short-lived model runs. However, approximately ten years before the original A3648’s introduction, Zenith released the S.58. The lore around the S.58 name runs deep, with the ‘S’ element causing the most debate among collectors. For many years, it was believed that its name was a callback to the anti-submarine warfare aircraft, the Sikorsky S-58 helicopter. It is now understood that the ‘S’ references ‘scaphandre’, which is French for ‘diving suit’ – a more appropriate and logical explanation.

With the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner arriving in 1953, you may assume the S.58 was late to the serious diving watch party with its 1958 release date, but Omega’s Seamaster was released in 1957, and super compressor pieces also took some years to arrive in the late 1950s. The earliest examples of the S.58 came without a rotating dive bezel in a stainless steel case reminiscent of those used for Fifty Fathoms models at 36.5mm. Large luminous numerals at the cardinal points, baton metal surround markers, and a bold handset defined those early models. For the most part, this formula remained unchanged throughout the lifespan of this model, only with the addition of a date complication, a shift away from a bumper movement to automatic ones, and a rotating bezel arriving during the early 1960s editions. In fact, over its ten-year lifespan, the S.58 underwent four key marks or evolutions, including an increase in diameter to 38mm during the early 1960s, four calibre changes – first the calibre 120, the 133.8, the 71/120, and finally the 2532/2542. All of these changes were in the name of advancement, and the pursuit of producing a genuine utilitarian diver was the ultimate goal.

More commonly associated with producing watches for the sky than the sea, the Zenith S.58 initially came without a rotating dive bezel in a stainless steel case, as seen above, before a rotating bezel was added in the early 1960s edition

“ The S.58 is a forgotten diver from the golden age, produced by a manufacturer many collectors didn’t know ever turned its hand to diving watches ”

The S.58 was discontinued in 1968 to make way for the original of the recently re-imagined A3648, a model and collection that overshadowed the S.58, seemingly banishing the 1950s piece to the history books. For such a beautifully classic watch from a brand with real pedigree, the S.58 is a forgotten diver from the golden age, produced by a manufacturer many collectors didn’t know ever turned its hand to diving watches. Today, the market for these pieces is scarce for quality examples, but they are out there. As with any purpose-intended sports watch, extra diligence should be taken when looking to add a piece to a collector to ensure there has been no water damage over the years, any reluming has been done with care, as well as dial refinishing, and the completeness of Bakelite bezels. Prices for the S.58 can vary depending on the marks, but expect to pay around

£5,000 and upwards for a quality, honest example. Compare this price to any of the other early widespread diving watches dating from the 1950s, such as the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster, and expect an extra zero at the end of the price tag.

Specialist vintage watches like this are prime examples of how working directly with knowledgeable and proven watch dealers can make life pain-free. Within the UK, few dealers can compete with Tortoise Watches regarding vintage Zenith. Its founder, Arvin Jhand, is based in the heart of London within Grays Antique Market, offering a wide selection of vintage watches that also fall under the Vintage Hero category, so if you want your eyes open even more, that’s undoubtedly the place to head to.

Attracting a price tag of around £5,000 and upwards, the Zenith S.58 is a considerably more accessible dive watch from the 1950s than the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster

hands-on reviews

THE SPECS

• 38mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance

• Omega calibre 8806 movement with 55-hour power reserve

• £5,200 (bracelet) and £4,800 (leather), omegawatches.com

There are a lot of watches that can justifiably carry the title of ‘legendary’ to my mind. Watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that are capable of single handedly carrying a brand for decades. When it comes to Omega though, they’re fortunate enough to have not just one legendary watch in their stable but many, the most famous duo of recent years being the Speedmaster and Seamaster. However, did you know that duo actually has a third member? When they were launched in 1957 as part of the Professional Line, they were joined by the Railmaster. Now the Railmaster is making a return with a new edition for 2025.

As the name suggests, while the Speedmaster and Seamaster were designed to conquer racing and the oceans, the Railmaster was designed to keep trains on time. The concept of specialised railway watches was popularised by brands like Ball, who saw a need in the market for a super accurate and reliable watch to keep trains on schedule to avoid delays and crashes. In order to be accurate on the railways, a watch has to withstand magnetic fields to resist the impact of being in close proximity to heavy machinery and electric fields.

That’s why the Railmaster became famous for its antimagnetic properties, which the new 38mm Railmaster maintains (or rather, improves 15 fold) with its 15,000 gauss resistance. Although that’s not quite so distinctive as it once was, as all of Omega’s movements are master chronometer certified – meaning they all have 15,000 gauss resistance. Fun fact, this isn’t what they’re actually resistant to, it’s just what METAS testing ensures – and is the Gauss that an MRI machine runs at.

It’s funny because it’s the prevalence of anti-magnetic watches that sounded the death knell for the Railmaster in comparison to its siblings. It’s a story familiar to lovers of the Rolex Milgauss. In fact, since 2003 when Omega do their occasional Railmaster revivals, similar to this one, it has just become an Aqua Terra variation.

That hasn’t really changed here. The case is based heavily on the existing 38mm Aqua Terra, right down to the sweeping facets of the lugs and large, easy to manipulate crown. It is very comfortable on the wrist with its three-link steel bracelet, but it’s not something we haven’t seen a hundred times before. Instead, the primary feature of the new model is its dial, which revives the heritage aesthetic of the Railmaster for a new age.

There are two versions of the dial available. The first is a fumé grey edition, which I have here, with a 12/3/6/9 arrangement of Arabic numerals in Super-LumiNova. It feels very minimalist with its geometric markers and a clean, clear display that’s only interrupted by the Omega and Railmaster logos. The polished hands feel particularly sharp with the Dauphine style hour hand and arrow minutes. Second is a beige fumé version designed to feel more authentically vintage with a six o’clock small seconds subdial and beige lume markings.

We’ve already touched on some of the specs of the movement but now let’s dig into it a little deeper. The

I’m struggling to see this as anything other than a subcollection of the Aqua Terra rather than a revelatory heritage revival

grey version houses the Calibre 8806 and the beige houses the 8804, the only difference being the small seconds display. They have a 55-hour power reserve and Omega’s signature co-axial escapement. You can see the radial Côtes de Genève finishing through the exhibition caseback. Around the edge of that back you can also see the inscription for 150m water resistance, the same as the Aqua Terra. Obviously.

For price, the Omega Railmaster is actually a touch more accessible than the 38mm Aqua Terra, likely due to the absence of a date window. On steel bracelet the grey edition is £5,200 and on leather strap is £4,800. For the beige edition that’s £5,700 and £5,400 respectively. I have to say that I’m struggling to see this as anything other than a subcollection of the Aqua Terra rather than a revelatory heritage revival. If they had gone one step further with redesigned lugs based on the original 1957 Railmaster (a little sharper and less rounded), I’d be fully bought in. Don’t get me wrong, I do like the watch, I just feel like it could be pushed a little further to make it something incredibly special. £5,200 (bracelet) and £4,800 (leather), omegawatches.com

THE SPECS

• 38mm rose gold case with 100m water resistance

• Grand Seiko 9S85 automatic movement with 55-hour power reserve

• £28,500, james-porter.co.uk

GRAND SEIKO SAKURA-KAKUSHI

18K ROSE GOLD 62GS

The latest Sakura-dialled Grand Seiko release is a beauty of a dress watch, but one that’s only available from one place…

Back in February, Grand Seiko launched the latest edition of their Sakura-Kakushi styled watches, based on early spring cherry blossoms. It’s a beautiful watch that’s available in the UK exclusively through James Porter & Son, one that I haven’t been able to stop thinking about. Fortunately, while we were digging into Grand Seiko’s new releases in Geneva, they also had the Sakura-Kakushi 18K Rose Gold 62GS to hand.

By now you’ll have probably heard of James Porter & Son. Even if you’re not a native Glaswegian, the collectorcentric retailer’s made waves both at home as a hub of independent watchmaking and online with some superb photography. Even if you don’t recognise the name, you’ll have seen some of their shots. It’s little wonder then that they manage to get hold of some seriously lovely exclusives like this.

In the metal, the 62GS is even more impressive than I initially thought. The high shine polish on the rose gold really makes the case pop, especially with the long lines around the edge of the watch, which are a distinctive element of the collection in general. Conceptually the lack of bezel initially concerned me (there’s a reason it’s a staple of watch design) but it’s really not an issue and being able to see the dial nice and clearly through the exposed sapphire crystal enhances the overall experience.

They say don’t meet your heroes, but when it comes to Grand Seiko, I can’t recommend it enough

The other major thing is that the dial appears much paler and cooler in colour in person. In the press images it has an almost salmon tint to it, like it’s reflecting the gold of the case and numerals. That doesn’t happen all that much in reality, leaving it a pristine silver. The choice of that silver isn’t just because it’s a dress watch staple (although it very much is). Instead, it comes from the Japanese Sakura-Kakushi micro-season, which is the period when early spring blossom is covered by late winter snows. Hence, the silver snow over the rose gold blooms.

This isn’t the most colourful micro-season Grand Seiko has embraced and honestly, without that explanation I doubt it’s something that would have really struck me. But it adds to the kind of Japanese authenticity you expect from the Shizukuishi-based studio. That and an absolutely gorgeous dial texture. Speaking of which…

You were probably expecting this a few hundred words back, but as you might expect, the dial is stunning. The delicate engraving lets you see every line of the floral pattern as you play the light across the display. My personal preference leans towards the Snowflake or Birch designs, but if you tell me the Sakura is your favourite, I cannot judge you in the least for it. I know there was a lot of love for the blossom-coloured pink version of this pattern, but having a less on-the-nose take is something I can really get behind.

The display is completed by Dauphine hands and facetted baton hour markers with a date window at three o’clock. They’re razor-sharp and zaratsu polished, an uber-precise counterpoint to the naturalistic dial.

Turning the watch over shows the exhibition caseback, which is as beautifully polished as the rest of the 38mm x 12.9mm case. Looking through the crystal you can see the immaculately finished 9S85 automatic calibre, with striping that catches the light like few other movements manage. With 55-hour power reserve and 5Hz hi-beat frequency, which equates to 36,000 beats per hour, it’s not the Spring Drive but it’s a close second – and takes less explaining to non-watch people.

Finished on a brown leather stap to compliment the rose gold case, the Sakura-Kakushi is pure Grand Seiko. It’s elegant, refined and pairs immaculate finishing with a distinctly Japanese personality. What’s not to love?

They say don’t meet your heroes, but when it comes to Grand Seiko, I can’t recommend it enough. They don’t disappoint. The Sakura-Kakushi 18K Rose Gold 62GS is £28,500, exclusively available in the UK from James Porter & Son. Now I just have to figure out how to afford one. And hey, even if you’re not ready to drop full gold Grand Seiko money right now, they’re still well worth a visit. With brands like Formex, Nomos Glashutte, and Horage, it’s all about that independent cool, Japanese or otherwise.

£28,500, james-porter.co.uk

THE SPECS

• 37.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Miyota 9075 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• $685 (approx. £515), heronwatches.com

HÉRON MIRABEL GMT

The vintage-riffing Canadian brand turns their archival design inspirations to the consummate traveller’s complication

There are plenty of brands – micros especially – over the last few years that have drawn their inspiration not from the archetypal Submariner but the much more refined Fifty Fathoms, and perhaps none have done it better than Héron. The Marinor Rainbow is a thing of beauty – if you find funky decompression tables beautiful, which I do. Now though they’re trying something a little different in the Mirabel GMT.

By a little different I mean completely and utterly. For one, it’s not a dive watch. Sure, there’s still some nautical flair to the barrel-shaped case. But if the Marinor is imitating 1960s French diving elegance, the Mirabel does the same for a dressy first class cabin watch.

The mix of Roman numerals, railway minute track and central crosshair riff off classic Art Deco design while the alpha hands wouldn’t look out of place on a mid-60s Longines. Then there’s the crown, which is broad and fluted, set with a blue resin cabochon. It’s ostensibly inspired by vintage pilots’ watches but to me has much more of an early British nautical feel to it.

Granted, that’s a feel which is much more pronounced on the white version of the Mirabel GMT. There are four variations available, two of which we have here. On the one hand there’s the aforementioned mix of steel, crisp white dial and black numerals with dark blue steel hands; on the other – and the polar opposite end of the forum of formal watches – is a gold-plated, brown dialled number.

They have very different personalities. I can see someone taking the gold-plated version out as an accessible dress watch with its darker, sultrier vibe begging for the low light of a cocktail bar. But personally, I’d prefer something a little more minimal for that. The white on the other hand works perfectly. Against the stark dial, the inner ring of Roman numerals for local time and the outer, 24-hour ring in Arabic numerals is less busy and much easier to read at a glance. And yes, I’m a sucker for the vintage British feel, too.

The 37.5mm case shape is understatedly lovely. The case curves into the lugs like old C-Case designs (1970s Omega Constellations come to mind) and the whole thing sits comfortably on the wrist. It does make the lug-to-lug slightly longer than the diameter suggests at 43.5mm, but like the hull of a classic regatta yacht, you don’t get elegant shapes like that without a bit of length. The shape also emphasises the sapphire crystal, which is one of the few elements I’m less enamoured by.

As is the nature of box crystals, there’s some pronounced magnification around the edge of where the crystal meets the case. This visual no-man’s land is in an awkward place. Looking straight on, you can see hints of the distortion and from any other angle it’s much more pronounced and confuses the eye. It doesn’t make it any less readable, but I don’t particularly like looking at it. It’s a foible I often have with box sapphires.

I can see someone taking the gold-plated version out as an accessible dress watch with its darker, sultrier vibe begging for the low light of a cocktail bar

That’s a shame because otherwise there’s a lot to love about the Mirabel GMT. The caseback really hams up the fact that this is a GMT, which I like more than your standard exhibition caseback. We’ve all seen Miyota movements before. Engraved on the back you have every one of the 24 time zone cities, displayed around a blackand-white enamelled day-night indicator in the middle, a very visual representation of where the sun is shining on Earth. It’s cool enough that if it were on the front of the watch I wouldn’t complain, and will look even better when the black’s upgraded to a crown-matching blue. As alluded to, the movement inside is a Japanese calibre, the Miyota 9075. It’s a true GMT rather than the usual Office GMTs you get at this price point, backed by a 4hz frequency and 42-hour power reserve. Good functionality, great reliability, it’s a proper traveller’s workhorse. That brief mention brings us onto the big question: how much does the Mirabel GMT cost? After its Kickstarter run, the Mirabel is priced at $685 – so around £515. That’s a good price for a GMT at the best of times, let alone one this well thought-out. The thing is, that’s not all. I don’t normally talk about packaging because honestly, who cares? It’s all about the watch. But the red leather box the Mirabel comes in matches the multi-vintage tone of the watch perfectly with gold foiling like it belongs in a royal library, along with a cool, hinged leather travel box. It’s also set on a Delugs strap, which itself is a pretty pricey peripheral. Normally I’d focus on the watch for its own merits, but less than £550 is already pretty meritorious; throw in some thoughtful extras and it’s hard not to see the sheer value here.

$685 (approx. £515), heronwatches.com

Beaucroft

Seeker Black Ice

Hands On Horology is this month and, if you don’t have your ticket by now, you may well be missing out. But just to rub that fact in a little, there’s the HoH exclusive, Seeker Black Ice. This 10-piece limited edition by Cambridge-based Beaucroft combines a fittingly pale blue dial with a blacked-out case, transforming the usually dressy Seeker into something completely different. High contrast doesn’t even come into it; this is about as punchy as a 37mm watch can get, and yet another reason to love the British brand.

THE SPECS:

• 37mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £425, beaucroftwatches.com

Monceau

Model 01

Another revival of a watch name lost too soon to the quartz crisis, the modern incarnation of Monceau eschews the brand’s vintage chronographs in favour of a less complicated – but by no means simple – three-hander, the Model 01. The wavy dial is more gentle seabed than rugged sand dunes and the red and grey versions get a smoky gradient towards the edge. The white and black on the other hand get baby blue highlights. Either way, it’s wrapped up in a sleek integrated sports bracelet and backed by a classic Sellita number. It’s not the Monceau you’ll see at your local vintage dealer, but there’s a lot to love – and worth a look on Kickstarter, where it’s running until 15th June.

THE SPECS:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Sellita SW210-1 manual-wind movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £679, monceauwatches.com

Palmos ONE

The debut from London-based Palmos, aptly named the Palmos ONE, distils that quintessentially 1970s flair for industrial, integrated bracelet sports watches down to a minimalist beauty. With its round, flat-planed bezel, there’s more than a hint of the IWC Ingenieur here, but without the visible screws or guilloche dial, it’s a much sleeker, calmer experience. That carries through to the dials in black, olive green, blue and a monochrome grey version (in my opinion the highlight). Backed by a workhorse Soprod movement, it’s everything you love about this sub-genre of watches in a more accessible format.

£782, palmos-watches.com

THE SPECS:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• Soprod M100 / Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £782, palmos-watches.com

Paulin

Neo Hands On Horology edition

When they’re not building super fun, super accessible beaters, Paulin have an artistic streak. Case in point, their reprised collaboration with John Nichol. The last run back in 2023 sold out quick, with each unique, handpainted dial offering a different personality. Now, the partnership is back with a 10-piece run of funky pop art dials, exclusively for Hands On Horology. If you’ve not got your ticket yet, you might want to. ASAP. £570, paulinwatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• Seiko NH35A automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• £570, paulinwatches.com

Anemoic

Versailles

Given their rep in the microbrand world, an endorsement from Studio Underd0g’s enough to make you sit up and take notice, but honestly, the debut design from Anemoic doesn’t need the fanfare. Created by Magnus Swann, who also had a stint at Underd0g, the Versailles aims to recapture 1970s French couture – specifically the legendary fashion showdown that was the Battle of Versailles – and does so with a jewellery-adjacent rectangular case and dramatic faceted, aquamarine crystal. At 28 x 39mm of stainless steel, it’s not nearly as small as you’d expect and should have some serious wrist presence. But, despite it having a solid specs sheet and a price tag of £1,900, the Versailles (and the Anemoic brand) is Magnus’ student design project, with no plans for production. Yet. We’ll need to wait and see what the reception among collectors is like, but I’d be surprised if this watch doesn’t go any further. At the very least, Magnus is killing his coursework. magnusswann.co.uk

THE SPECS:

• 28mm x 39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• La Joux Perret D101 manual-wind movement with 50-hour power reserve

• £1,900, magnusswann.co.uk

Nuun

Official

Origen N1837

Rounded, porthole bezel? Check. Big, muscular shoulders? Check. Hype-infused Tiffany blue dial? Check. Far from being one of the most expensive watches ever sold, Nuun Official’s Nautilus-riffing Origen offers all the hotness of a grail watch at a fraction of a fraction of the price. It puts its own spin on things with Eastern Arabic numerals and a blacked out case. Even if you don’t buy into the Patek hype, it offers a solid, summerready watch with 100m water resistance and a lightweight, durable carbon case. £253, nuunofficial.com

THE SPECS:

• 40.5mm Caron x Tech case with 100m water resistance

• Miyota 1S13 quartz movement

• £253, nuunofficial.com

EDITED BY: Sam Kessler

A COMPLICATED SPORTS WATCH WITHOUT COMPROMISE, A BRITISH BRAND BALANCING COOL TECH AND SLEEK USABILITY, AND A TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE ARTFORM PRODUCING LUSTROUS RESULTS

BIANCHET

Merging haute horology with performance, the Bianchet UltraFino is a complicated sports watch without compromise

When Abraham Louis Breguet built the first tourbillon at the turn of the 19th century, there was no way he could anticipate what it would become. What was once a way to genuinely counteract the effect of gravity on a pocket watch is now a showpiece that’s inextricably linked with the upper echelons of modern watchmaking. Even the mechanism itself has come a long way, with tourbillons of various speeds and angles working across one, two, three axes.

In all honesty, the fundamental question of how well a tourbillon works has fallen by the wayside. There’s plenty of healthy debate as to the mechanism’s effect on a movement that’s not upright 90% of the time, especially when it comes to the more brainbreakingly advanced iterations. No, modern tourbillons aren’t all about chronometry; they’re about artistry – an artistry Bianchet has built their entire brand on.

Bianchet was founded at a… let’s say, unique time. 2019. Remember those halcyon days of yore? In hindsight it probably wasn’t the best time to launch anything, but it was at Baselworld 2019 that Bianchet first showcased what they could do in the G5000 Active Tourbillon. The name came from the fact that it was a tourbillon designed to be worn no matter what, the usually delicate mechanism able to withstand a 5,000g impact.

The G5000 Active Tourbillon was a shot out of the blue, a lightweight slice of surprisingly rugged haute horology from a brand that had been founded just two years prior – and not even by watchmaking royalty. Sure, Rodolfo Festa Bianchet was a watch collector, but he made his

fortune in FinTech, not watchmaking. His wife, Emmanuelle, was a journalist, artist and creative, again no technical horological background to speak of.

And yet, fast-forward to today and Bianchet have done more than ride out the global storm created by Covid. Today you can find them in 17 countries across the world. They’ve partnered with famous faces in tennis (Alexander Bublik), surfing (Francisco Porcella) and Formula 1 (Esteban Ocon), supported polo tournaments and ocean initiatives, and generally punched harder than watchmakers many, many times their size. Most importantly, their watches have come a long way from that initial, already high standard. Case in point, the new UltraFino Titanium.

Now, we’ve seen plenty of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, but where most of them riff off Gerald Genta, Bianchet have made the format entirely their own. For one, it’s aesthetically an absolute stunner. Bianchet’s tonneau case may share a name with Richard Milles, but with its tactile curves and refined shape, it’s a more elegant alternative. Even the crown guard blends flawlessly into that overall barrel shape.

At the same time, it’s still firmly a sports watch. The 40mm case is entirely made from lightweight titanium, as is the integrated bracelet, something that’s unusual to see on a tonneau watch, let

Tourbillons

alone done to this degree of fluidity. The result is a relatively big, sporty watch that nonetheless feels perfect on the wrist.

That sports performance flows through to the specs too as, like that original, seminal Bianchet that rocked Baselworld in 2019, it’s shock resistant to 5,000g. On the surface, that kind of shock resistance on a sports watch is impressive but not too surprising. Until you realise that yes, this is a flying tourbillon. Not a standard tourbillon, with a cage supported from all angles, but a flying tourbillon, only supported form below. While that gives the impression that it’s floating –hence the name – it also makes the mechanism more delicate. That the UltraFino still stands up as a sports watch says a lot about Bianchet’s approach to watchmaking.

That shock resistance is maintained partly by having a titanium tourbillon, but also by the movement’s innate structure. On the reverse you’ll see the bridges forming two concentric circles. If you measure them, you’d realise they’re in a ratio of 1.618. This is the Golden Ratio, a mathematical concept that you can see visualised in things like Nautilus shells. It’s beautiful – and historically used in things like Grecian columns – but also strong. There’s a reason it can be found in shells. Here, it reinforces the rotor mechanism, absorbing shocks that might otherwise harm the movement. Available either skeletonised or with a gorgeous blue guilloche dial, the UltraFino Titanium is one of the purest expressions of sporty haute horology. It looks beautiful and works beautifully, but in a way that you can actually wear.

Don’t just take our word for it of course. Bianchet will be at Hands On Horology on 14th June, so come try out the UltraFino Titanium for yourself. You won’t regret it. Find out more at bianchet.com

IN

BARRINGTON WATCH WINDERS

The British watch winder brand balancing cool tech and sleek usability with temptingly accessible price tags

All too often there are two distinct camps of watch winders. On the one hand you have the cheap, mass-produced versions that are nothing but a whiny motor attached to a watch holder, liable to do more damage than good. On the other, you have the showpieces that try their best to show up a Patek Philippe Grand Complication – with a price tag to match. For most of us in search of a good middle-ground, it’s a no-man’s land – with one British flag planted right in the middle: Barrington.

While they have a name like a grand old resident of Jermyn Street, Barrington’s a much more modern company. It wasn’t even founder Sean O’Farrell’s first venture in the watch world. That would be Jura Watches, back in 2007. Indeed, it was through Jura that O’Farrell saw a winder-shaped hole in the market, one that he filled with the initial Barrington single-watch winder in 2010.

This wasn’t just a whim or a quickly rebranded and whitelabelled winder. Quite the opposite as, in keeping with the name, Barrington was set to be British through-and-through, enlisting homegrown designers Conka Design and Hoffi to build the winder. The result was a handsome way to keep your perpetual calendars from falling out of grace, but one that cost less than servicing a Sky-Dweller.

It sold well through Jura, but it wasn’t long before other retailers were clamouring to get Barrington into their own stores. And when Jura passed ownership in 2014, Barrington struck out completely, expanding their repertoire to two, four, six, nine, all the way up to 12

and 24-watch winders. Of course, it’s not just a case of how many watches you can store, but whether what you’re storing them in is worth your time – figuratively and literally, in this case.

Let’s start with aesthetics. After all, if you have a watch winder, it’s likely part showcase as much as it is a practicality. Well, at the entry level, if you like colour, you’ll like what you see. Barrington’s debut single-watch winder has been expanded into a range of colours. Looking for something a bit more classical? Try American walnut or Santos rosewood.

If it feels like too much to choose from, bear in mind that you don’t necessarily need to. All of Barrington’s single-watch winders can be connected together and run from a single socket. Ever wanted to build a multi-coloured tower out of your watch collection? Now’s your chance.

Where the single-watch winders offer a bit more fun however, Barrington’s multi-watch winders take a more serious angle. Rather than the overly luxurious combinations of rare woods and fine leathers that look out of place anywhere but a country estate, these winders come display cases lean on the modern tech side of things. That means lashings of carbon fibre, touch screen panels and horological mood lighting.

That modern aesthetic isn’t arbitrary, of course. While the concept of a watch winder is relatively straightforward – again, a motor that turns a watch holder – a lot of technical development has gone into making sure these ones are as effective, efficient and user friendly as possible. Through the touch screen, you can individually set the characteristics of each winder. If you have a watch with a particularly long power reserve you need to fill or the opposite, a delicate movement you don’t want to damage, you can set your

What sets Barrington apart comes back to that rarely trodden middle-ground of exclusivity and affordability

winders respectively. Yes, you can get as watch nerdy about this stuff as you like. I won’t judge. Perhaps more importantly to everyone other than you, those variable motors are ultra-quiet, Japanese made numbers, so no whirring all night long. It cuts the benefit of having your watches nicely recharged if your partner wakes up at half-empty.

Speaking of partners – or more likely a son looking to impress a date – Barrington’s multi-watch winders also come with a fingerprint scanner for security. It won’t stop a burglar unplugging the whole thing and throwing it in their swag bag, but it will make sure that your Royal Oak doesn’t mysteriously disappear. And reappear a day later with a scratched bezel. Plus there are few things more satisfying than accessing your Seamaster 300m No Time to Die edition with a Q-worthy system like that.

Sexy as all this is – and yes, I’m aware I’m calling a winder sexy, I stick by it – it’s all stuff that you’ll have come across from various other winder companies, to greater or lesser extents. But what sets Barrington apart comes back to that rarely trodden middle-ground of exclusivity and affordability. Where others can stretch into the thousands of pounds for carbon copy specs sheets, Barrington’s range starts from just £225 for the single-watch winder up to £3,995 for hoard-worthy 24-piece showcase. Sure, if you have a handful of F.P. Journes and a Dufour or two, money likely is no object for you. For the rest of us however, that kind of pricing turns a seriously good winder from an aspirational ‘would be nice’ into a worryingly tempting proposition. Given that’s the modus operandi for the UK’s homegrown watch industry, it must be a British thing.

Find out more at barringtonwatchwinders.com

What started with a single-watch winder in 2010 has now expanded into a suite of winder options for two, four, six, nine, 12, and even 24 watches

The traditional Vietnamese lacquer known as son mài is made from a natural resin that’s derived from the cây son tree in the mountains of Phú Tho - and the labour-intensive process is worth the effort as it produces a deep texture and shine

AWAKE

The traditional Vietnamese art of sơn mài and the watch brand championing it

Awake have made waves over the past couple of years. The microbrand’s dials are up there with some of the finest vitreous enamel numbers in terms of colour and visually mesmerising impact, but at a fraction of the cost. But what is it that makes their S ơ n Mài collection what it is? Well, it’s all right there in the name: s ơ n mài, or traditional Vietnamese lacquer.

In the West, enamelling has reigned supreme for centuries as the de facto face of metiers d’art and it’s not hard to see why. The vibrant colours, the painstaking paintings of true artisans, it all adds up to the kind of scholarly art form watch collectors love. In Vietnam however, the de facto art form since the feudal era was s ơ n mài, a very specific technique using a very specific lacquer. In the 1930s, s ơ n mài saw a renaissance and has since become the country’s contribution to fine art worldwide. So, what exactly is it?

S ơ n mài starts with the lacquer itself, which is a completely natural resin, derived from the cây s ơ n tree in the mountains of Phú Th ọ , northwest of Hanoi. The tree’s not exactly rare, but it has to be over a decade old before the lacquer can be harvested – and even then, at most 200ml at a time and only during June and July each year. The lacquer needs the humidity. It then needs to be refined, filtered and dehydrated before it’s even usable.

Once ready, the lacquer is painted on in an incredibly thin layer, before being slowly allowed to dry. Before the next layer can be painted on, the previous has to be

sanded and polished to a perfect sheen for an even finish. Given the number of layers needed to build up the finished piece, that’s a lot of polishing. So why the effort?

If you’ve seen Vietnamese lacquer in person, you’ll know the answer: shine. This natural lacquer has a sheen unlike anything else and, when applied in thin layer after thin layer, builds up a rich depth that’s like few other materials. Add a dash of pigment into the lacquer and the layers come alive with ever-building colour.

Because of the semi-transparency of the lacquer and the thinness of the layers, the material underneath also comes through. Vietnamese artists have experimented with plenty of different materials over the centuries, traditionally using wood but also incorporating more precious materials. Nguyen Van Tuan for example used gold leaf in his painting, The Golden Lotus, and the work seems to glow from within because of it, using a technique locally known as laminage.

Laminage dates back nearly 300 years, to when gold and silver leaf were used for Buddhist statues, royal status symbols and fine objets d’art. It’s still practiced today in

It’s colour and texture that set so’n mài apart from enamel, and these dials have them both

the village of Kieu Ky and is as precise and painstaking a craft as s ơ n mài. How do you get a paper-thin piece of precious metal? Hammer it from a solid ingot. Needless to say, it takes time, effort and a strong arm, so it’s no surprise that there are only around 50 families in Kieu Ky keeping it alive.

In their S ơ n Mài collection, Awake embraced both Vietnam’s traditional lacquering technique and laminage by applying the distinctive lacquer onto a silver leaf dial. The result is an almost impossibly delicate texture deep within the dial, under a perfectly smooth, polished lacquer finish. They’ve also leant heavily into colour with blues, greens, purples and reds, because when you have this depth of colour available, why would you do anything else? It’s colour and texture that set s ơ n mài apart from enamel, and these dials have them both.

While there is more to each S ơ n Mài watch than the dial – their recycled steel 39mm cases and La Joux-Perret movements make for great timepieces no matter how you look at them – those dials are the stars. Honestly, they’re the kind of thing that you can only really appreciate in person. Sure, I can wax lyrical about the colours, the craft, the ode to Vietnamese heritage that they are, but until you see that depth and beauty for yourself those are all just words.

Fortunately, Awake will be showing off their watches at Hands on Horology this month. At time of writing there are still tickets, so make sure you head to onhorology. com to secure your place at London’s premier new watch show – and discover the beauty of s ơ n mài for yourself.

Find out more at awakewatches.com

Oracle DISCOVERS

COSTINS WATCHES - ELYSIAN

Introducing Costins Watches, a new voice in contemporary watch design, rooted in Moldovan heritage and based in London. The debut Elysian is a study in architecture, pattern, and tradition reimagined in steel. Influenced by Ornament Moldovenesc, a traditional pattern known for its geometry, the Elysian blends heritage and refinement. It’s the first watch to draw directly from Moldova’s culture, architecture, and traditions. It makes for a unique design housed in a 40.5mm steel case powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic.

Launching on Kickstarter Q3 2025, early-bird £395, RRP £595, learn more at costinswatches.com

HÉRON WATCHES – MIRABEL GMT

While Héron’s recent launches have proven their skill when it comes to dive watch design, with the Héron Mirabel GMT presents an altogether different style. It’s a GMT dress watch with a vintage inspired sector dial. Offering a classy and luxurious aesthetic taking you back to the golden age of travel. It’s powered by the Miyota 9075 automatic movement, which is as ‘True GMT’ allows you to adjust just the hour hand to change time zones.

$690 (approx. £515), available from heronwatches.com

PALMOS – PALMOS ONE

The PALMOS ONE is the debut watch from Palmos, bringing a sleek integrated bracelet design to life with monochromatic dials. It measures 40mm with a thickness of 9.2mm in stainless steel. Its broad, flat bezel gives it quite a strong industrial charm. Powering it is a choice of the SOPROD M100 (A10) or Sellita SW300-1, offering a solid level of accuracy and value. In terms of colour, there’s a choice of black, olive, steel grey, or blue. Available for pre-order soon, more details at palmos-watches.com

Beaubleu – Ecce Vesperal

Beaubleu have one of the most distinctive displays in the watch industry thanks their circular hands. It’s amazing how much impact changing the shape of a hand has and when it’s as non-traditional as this, it stands out all the more. The hands themselves feature on the dial of the Ecce, which is their sportiest and most industrial model with a steel case and broad, brushed bezel. Especially in the Vesperal variant with a matching brushed steel dial. If you prefer a more luxe look, there’s also the white dialled Lys with rose gold accents.

£637, available from beaubleu-paris.com

STRAUM – JAN MAYEN BLACK SAND

Straum have become the masters of textured dials, with the Jan Mayen available in a selection of seriously detailed and stylish interpretations. The Black Sand swaps the glacial inspiration for the arctic coast with the wavey texture of dark sand continually beaten by chill waters. Inside the Jan Mayen is the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic, one of the most highly rated third party movements in the watch industry at the moment.

£1,400, available at straum.co

LUFF WATCH STRAPS – SALT AND PEPPER HISHI STRAP

The Luff Watch Straps Salt and Pepper Hishi Strap is a NATO style strap produced from a combination of black and grey wool that gives it a distinctive dappled appearance. It’s made using a Shelby style weave, which is what gives it its exaggerated pattern. It offers a slightly thicker interpretation of the traditional NATO style, making it an excellent strap for chunkier tool watches such as diver or chronographs that tend to be larger than the field watches NATO straps were originally designed for. $24.99 (approx. £20), available from luffwatchstrap.com

Artem –HydroFlex Straps

Artem are an Australian watch strap brand well known for their use of sailcloth and canvas in their products. With their latest collection, the HydroFlex strap, they have created a fusion that combines an FKM rubber base with a canvas style top. It’s the ultimate combination for both style and comfort on the wrist. There are multiple colours available including black, grey, blue, khaki green, and sand beige. Ideal for any sports or tool watch. £176, available at artemstraps.com

Yorkshire Watch Straps – The Adventurer

Yorkshire Watch Straps aim for the perfect mix of style, practicality and accessibility with their range of nylon and rubber straps. Focusing on The Adventurer, it’s their premier go anywhere, do anything strap made from quality ribbed nylon. It’s available in a range of colours, including blue double stripe, and black and red single stripe. It features YWS’s improved steel buckle and a large Velcro centre piece for quick adjustment suitable for any environment. £39.99, available at yorkshirewatchstraps.com

LORENTE STRAPS – VINTAGE PERFORATED LEATHER WATCH STRAP

It goes without saying that there are a huge variety of styles and designs when it comes to leather watch straps, many of which Lorente Straps produce with their signature Spanish flair. Take for example the Vintage Perforated Leather Watch Strap, a gorgeous racing strap designed to pair well with vintage chronographs from the 1960s and ‘70s. It’s made from Top Grain cowhide tanned in Spain with a slightly aged, waxed finish to create an authentic vintage appearance. €49 (approx. £40), available from lorente-straps.com

TIME CLUB WATCH STRAPS

Time Club is a UK strap brand specialising in practical straps designed to tackle the trials of everyday life. For that reason they produce a wide range of straps for smart watches including Apple watches and Garmins – the actual watches you wear on the day to day rather than the dress watches you keep for special occasions. The Not So Camo Green Edition offers a fun interpretation of a classic colour scheme, the Ridge 4X offers greater airflow for comfort and the Pinnacle is for feats of heavy-duty endurance.

£24.99 - £35.99, available from thetimeclub.co.uk

PORT ASKAIG – ISLAY SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY 15 YEAR

The Port Askaig Islay

Single Malt Scotch Whisky 15 year is a highly exclusive drink, limited to around 900 bottles per year. It has amazing tasting notes of toasted vanilla and orange with the freshness of sea salt and lemongrass, warmed by brown sugar and light spice. It’s a perfect blend of smokiness with a touch of sweet.

£109, available at portaskaig.com

ShakaCan – ShakerCan Cocktails

ShakaCan aim to bring back some of the theatre and joie de vivre of an actual cocktails to the convenience of a single serving canned cocktail. Their ShakerCan device attaches securely to any regular beverage can, allowing you to add ice, shake it and then strain the contents with ease, giving you a perfectly chilled drink right from the can. They also produce a ready to drink selection of cocktails including Daiquiri, Espresso Martini, Grapefruit Cosmo, Mai Tai, Pegu Club and Pornstar Martini.

ShakaBox Tasting Pack

£29.95, available at shakacan.com

SILENT POOL GIN – 10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

Silent Pool Gin is celebrating their 10th anniversary in 2025, having sold their first bottle in 2015 after being founded by a group of friends with a common interest in craft distilling in 2013 on the Duke of Northumberland’s Albury Estate. The Anniversary bottle is a limited edition that follows their trademark four-step process to deliver an aromatic and flavourful botanical blend. On the nose it has floral notes of pear and elderflower, which are matched by a flavour profile of pear layered with spices.

£59, available from silentpooldistillers.com

Beavertown Brewery – Neck Oil

The British independent watch scene isn’t the only British industry embracing colour and entertaining style. Beavertown Brewery has made itself a mainstay of the British night out and pub experience with its unique, cartoonish style and focus on the social parts of drinking, like good company, good music, and good venues. The London-based Brewery produce a wide range of drinks including their award-winning Neck Oil that fuses flavours of hops with the citrus influence of passionfruit. It’s also proof that a good time needn’t break the bank

Eight-cans and pint glass £20, available from beavertownbrewery.co.uk

THE MACALLAN – SIGNATURE SHERRY OAK 18 YEARS OLD

The Macallan produce an annual expression of their Signature Sherry Oak 18 Years Old, so the current version is the 2024 bottle. It’s a single malt led by European Oak and finished in sherry casks seasoned in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain. It has an aroma of treacle tart with stem ginger that leads to tasting notes of dried fruit, oak and vanilla which fades in a lingering finish. The Macallan are one of the oldest distillers in Scotland and that experience shows in their signature whiskies. £375, available from themacallan.com

Eton Shirts – Eton x Tretorn

Wimbledon is due to start at the end of June, so it’s the perfect time to update your off-court wardrobe ready for sunny days spectating at Centre Court. Eton Shirts have collaborated with sportswear brand Tretorn to create a summer-ready limited edition capsule collection inspired by the preppy styles of tennis. V-neck cardigans, striped collar shirts, comfortable chinos and more offer a relaxed but stylish fit. £150-£380, available at etonshirts.com

CURO SKIN – FILTERED SHOWER HEAD

Being summer ready doesn’t start with a nice outfit and a good watch. No. It starts with confidence in yourself and your body. Which is where the Curo Skin Filtered Shower Head comes in, using its eco-friendly filter to remove impurities from the water, including 99% of chlorine, as you shower in order to improve skin and hair health. It also helps manage long lasting skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis by removing irritants. Plus, in chrome, gold or black, it suits a variety of bathrooms.

From £56, available at curoskin.co.uk

N. Peal – Summer Edit Cotton Cashmere Polo

N. Peal are internationally recognised for the quality of their polo shirts, after all, they are James Bond’s shirt of choice when he’s in more casual attire. For the Summer Edit they’re maintaining that relaxed but smart attitude with a Cotton Cashmere Polo in cornflower blue. The soft blend of materials makes it soft to the skin while also nice and light for the hot weather. The blend is specifically 85% Supina cotton and 15% cashmere. £215, available from npeal.com

POWER TO PEDAL

Power to Pedal is an independent personal transport retailer based in Manchester that aim to inspire health, sustainability and adventure for the whole family. That’s why they stock a wide selection of e-bikes, bikes, and scooters for adults and children. Whether you’re using them for the daily commute in the city or getting out into the countryside for some rugged exploration, they have everything you need to stay active and stay safe while doing so.

Learn more at powertopedal.com

LOAKE – SARDINIA CHESTNUT BROWN

Is there a style of shoe that better expresses the relaxed, easy-going nature of summer more than the boat shoe? The Sardinia by Loake is produced in chestnut suede leather with a design based on the ‘Tuscan’ style, which features a rounded toe shape. The lightweight materials make it comfortable in hot weather while the rubber soles ensure a good level of durability and resilience. £149, available from loake.com