Oracle Time - Issue 111 April 25' ( The Swiss Issue )

25 Years of

The Geneva Issue Watches & Wonders, Max Verstappen & the Geneva Seal

WELCOME

Editor’s letter

I’m going to make a bold claim and say that I go to Geneva more than most. That makes sense; it’s the capital city of watchmaking and, given I edit a watch magazine, manufacturer visits and product launches aplenty are par for the course. But there’s one event that not only bring my fine self to Switzerland’s second city: Watches & Wonders.

By the time you’re reading this, I’ll be neck deep in shiny new watches along with the good and great of the watch world. Granted the four-day stint at the Palexpo means I’ll be needing vitamin D supplements, but the likes of Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, TAG Heuer and many, many more are worth it.

Print deadlines being what they are, that means our Watches & Wonders round-up on page 45 is very much a first look, a glimpse at the watches we knew about beforehand. Even so, aside from the big dogs that play their cards close to their chest – Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe and Cartier – all the good stuff is in there. And there is some very, very good stuff.

Not all the horological action this month is restricted to conference centres and oversized stands of course. There are plenty of smaller shows dotted around Geneva showcasing some of the best independent and small-scale watchmaking around. As I can’t be everywhere, I’ve left it up to the inimitable Thor Svaboe to showcase some of the coolest pieces from that idiosyncratic subset on page 59.

Geneva’s not just famous for making watches, but testing them too and in haute horological circles, that means the Poinçon de Genève. But other than bragging rights available to a handful of superlative maisons, what exactly is the Geneva Seal? What does it test? We find out all about it on page 73.

COVER CREDITS

Photography: Calista Edwards

Watch: Gerald Charles

Maestro G369 jumping hours

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What we don’t discuss however is whether the Poinçon de Genève is even relevant, so we’ve left that to Chris Hall on page 78.

Interview-wise, we have a pair of heavy hitters in their respective worlds. On the watch side we talk to Andrea Furlan, one half of the hottest microbrand outside of Britain, Furlan Marri. We discuss curves, cars, and the Swiss mountains on page 109.

Speaking of cars brings me to our lead interview this issue, one that I know a fair few of you will be excited about. With the F1 season now in full swing, Scarlett Baker got a chance to talk to the legendary Max Verstappen. “Doe maar gewoon normaal dan ben je gek genoeg.” And if you want to know what that means, head to page 81.

Racers are only as good as their vehicles of course and while F1 is a literally in a league all its own, Switzerland has a greater heritage in motoring than you might expect. Key among the country’s collectible marques is Monteverdi, a man who, as Mark Smyth explores on page 115, was a lesser-known giant in the field.

That brings us to our cover feature this issue as, while Gerald Genta was anything but a lesser-known giant, his legacy outside of the Royal Oak, Nautilus and Ingenieur is far too often overlooked. As his second eponymous brand turns 25, we look at how Gerald Charles, more than any of the sports watches normally dubbed ‘Genta-esque’ epitomises the late designer’s outlook on watches and aesthetics both. Check it out on page 36.

So, as I sit here under the lights of the Palexpo rethinking my life decisions between appointments, I hope that you at least can relax with these very pages. As ever stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue.

Sam Kessler, Editor

CONTRIBUTORS

Thor Svaboe

As the sole Norwegian who doesn’t like snow or climbing mountains, Thor has honed his florid writing skills at Time + Tide, and is now an editor at Fratello Watches . This Viking would fearlessly go into battle under the banner of independent watchmaking, and his endgame watch would be the unique Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1.

Chris Hall

Chris Hall has been writing about watches for 14 years, and publishes The Fourth Wheel, a weekly newsletter for watch enthusiasts, as well as contributing to The New York Times, Financial Times, Wired, QP, The Telegraph, Vanity Fair, Vogue Business, and many other titles.

Scarlett Baker

Scarlett Baker is a fashion and watch journalist. She got the hots for horology when she bought a fairy-themed FlikFlak watch at the airport, aged 6, and it pains her to this day that it no longer fits. Now, she spends her time obsessing over Richard Mille’s BonBon collection, buying lottery tickets in the hope that she will one day be able to afford it.

Michael Sonsino

As Digital Editor for Oracle Time, Michael needs an eye for detail, which makes it a good thing that his twin joys in life are miniatures and watches. He’s a lifelong fan of fine timepieces, especially those of a more historic nature - if it has a twist of Art Deco, all the better.

Mark Smyth

A passion for cars eventually guided Mark into a career as a motoring writer. His main loves are car design and the industry, but he also finds time to write about his other passion, yachting and the occasional bit of horology too. Mark has contributed to Autocar, Octane, The Telegraph and Car Design News.

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk

ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

SUB EDITOR Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com

DIGITAL EDITOR

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk

LEAD DEVELOPER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk

DIGITAL CONTENT CREATOR Kelly Coombes kelly.coombes@opulentmedia.co.uk

CONTENT CREATOR Calista Edwards calista.edwards@opulentmedia.co.uk

JUNIOR SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE Teddy Clark teddy.clark@opulentmedia.co.uk

PUBLISHER / CO-FOUNDER Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk

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19 — AFICIONADO

As the world heads to Geneva, make the journey easier with the coolest things in travel

25 — NEWS

What’s happening in the world of fine watchmaking and the luxury industry at large

32 — HEAD TO HEAD

We pit the Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor against the F.P. Journe Classique

“The design language of Genta is very much visible in Gerald Charles, which always took inspiration from objects in real life. It’s what allowed him to create new watches, not copy what came before”

Maestro - p36

36 — MAESTRO

Gerald Genta’s legacy endures in the creative 25th anniversary limited edition Maestro G369 jumping hours

CONTENTS2

It’s simple, refined and the perfect example of what people love about

Grand Seiko Watches and Wonders Round-up - p45

45 — WATCHES AND WONDERS ROUND-UP

A first look at the big name watches that we’re expecting to see in Geneva

59 — INDEPENDENT BRANDS IN GENEVA

Meet the indie brands at Geneva Watch Week 2025

73 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

What really is the Poinçon de Genève and why does it matter?

78 — DIALLED IN Chris Hall asks what does the Geneva Seal have to do to stay relevant?

81 — THE INTERVIEW — MAX VERSTAPPEN

The F1 ace on beating the clock, his combination for success, and acting normal

87 — URBAN EXPLORER

We make a city adventure look good in our exclusive photo shoot

101 — WATCHES AND ANTI-MAGNETISM

The compelling history of science’s relationship with anti-magnetic watches

109 ANDREA FURLAN: A MAN OF INFLUENCE Furlan Marri’s co-founder on curves, Swiss mountains, and an anniversary watch

115 — THE LEGACY OF PETER MONTEVERDI

The unheralded giant of the luxury and performance cars that wore his name

128 VINTAGE HERO

The story of Andersen Genève and the world time complication

133 — WATCH REVIEWS

We get hands-on with watches from IWC, Certina, and Rado

144 MICROBRAND CORNER

All the latest and greatest brands from the world of independent watchmakers

POETIC LICENSE

Flying without headphones is just painful. Sure, you can use the cheap in-flight ones, but what’s the point? They’re never going to block out the annoyingly chatty guy next to you. Don’t worry, Romanian brand, Meze, has you covered. Dubbed the POET, these headphones will block out noisy neighbours with a beautifully natural soundscape and thanks to their lightweight titanium construction, you’ll barely notice them hours into the journey. The fact that they look as well-finished as any high-end timepiece is just the geometric-patterned icing on the cake, right down to the hand-braided copper cable. They’re firmly premium headphones, but can you put a price on audio privacy?

£1,850, mezeaudio.com

A

FI C I O N A D O

As the world descends on Geneva, make the journey that much easier with some of the coolest things in travel

IT’S ELEMENTAL

Do you struggle to pick out your suitcase from the endless conveyor belt of blacks and greys? Japanese-flavoured suitcase makers Monos have something you’ll spot from the plane. Their new Element collection covers their polycarbonate and aluminium cases in bright, eye-catching blue. Whether you’re getting spring ready or simply like the icy colourway, the new Element comes in a variety of sizes depending on whether you’re off on a long weekend or getting out of dodge for the foreseeable. Either way, the hardwearing cases do a lot more than look pretty.

From £355, monos.uk

THE SPECS:

• 41mm white gold case with 30m water resistance

• Hermès H1837 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve

• £36,980, hermes.com

TRAVEL TIME

The H08 may be the modern Hermes flagship watch, but their highend haute horological creations are nothing if not exceptional –including the stunning Le Temps Voyager. This new white gold version is an absolute stunner, with the wandering white dial operating as the worldtimer function in what’s quite possibly the most intense twist on the ultimate traveller’s complication in recent memory. Finished with a faithfully rendered atlas underneath the dial, this is the kind of watch that demands to be counting among the jet-set.

CLOSE SHAVE

Get where you’re going fresh-faced and ready for action – even if you were sandwiched between a crying baby and a narcoleptic whale. Lorenzi Milano’s beautifully crafted travel shaving set is a world away from your cheap disposables, with ergonomic bamboo root handles to both the razor and badger hair brush, and a handy leather storage case. Give yourself a little me time before whatever big, important meeting you flew in for. Just don’t get shaving foam on your suit. £335, lorenzi-milano.com

FLYING HIGHER

You know how you can cut the pain of a long-haul flight? Cut the flight. Capable of shooting to Mach 22.5 (that’s 17,400mph), the Radian One spaceplane will make everyone forget about Concorde. While it’s designed to enable the libertarian future of private space stations, it can cut down flight times by orbiting the Earth in 95 minutes. It’ll certainly give your worldtimer a workout. While testing is still ongoing, this is the first step towards point-to-point travel, shooting out of the atmosphere then back down, cutting flight times dramatically. All this and, by Radian’s account at least, it will feel more like a private jet than a rocket. The future is here and it’s fast. radianaerospace.com

SAME GREAT MAGAZINE, NEW GREAT SIZE

Starting from Issue 112 next month, Oracle Time is changing to a new size. The magazine currently in your hands measures 290mm x 230mm and starting in May it will have reduced proportions of 280mm x 210mm. In much the same way that vintage proportions have become popular in watches because they’re more wearable, this new size for the magazine

is designed to make it more manageable to read and so that it fits through a wider variety of letter boxes. We reached this decision based on feedback we’ve received directly from the Oracle Time community. Other than the size, nothing else about the magazine is changing, it’s all the same great content and the same great quality.

DEBUT HOLTHINRICHS WATCHES RALLYE

Dutch watch brand Holthinrichs are hosting their first ever Holthinrichs Watches Rallye event in the Swiss Alps to coincide with Geneva Watch Days in September. The rally, taking place on 3rd September is open to people from the wider watch community including watch journalists, watchmakers and

FURLAN MARRI COMMUNITY DESIGN LAB

Furlan Marri have opened their Community Design Lab, a year-long project to work with enthusiasts and collectors to design a new watch for release in 2026. The design process will involve multiple rounds of community voting and participants will receive exclusive discounts on the final watch when it launches on Kickstarter. Additionally, five people during each voting stage will receive Furlan Marri gifts and/or accessories.

The first round of voting features some core essentials such as preferences regarding case size, shape, colour and complications. It shows that the process really is starting from square one and Furlan Marri are willing to explore a huge variety of directions based on feedback from the public. If you miss out on the first round of voting, don’t worry, there will be plenty more throughout the year. Take part at furlanmarri.com

collectors – making it a great opportunity to meet some extraordinary people. The event includes driving into the mountains from Geneva to have lunch, followed by a sightseeing tour of the Alps, before returning for a fondue dinner in the city. The focus is on leisure and enjoyment, not speed.

You’re invited to bring your own car (preferably classic or youngtimer), or one will be provided for you at an additional cost. Spaces at the event are limited to 15 teams consisting of a driver and navigator each – you can enter as a prepared team or sign up as an individual to be paired later. Additionally, there will be a photography competition running on the day to take the best snap of a Holthinrichs watch during the rally to win a one-of-one Signature special edition watch.

€250 per person, apply at holthinrichswatches.com/ rally2025

There will be a photography competition to take the best snap of a Holthinrichs watch during the rally

ROLEX ADD NEW BOUTIQUE AND AMBASSADOR

The brand with the crown has opened their latest London boutique with Watches of Switzerland in one of the classic locales for London watch shopping, Old Bond Street. The new London shop has the distinction of being the largest Rolex boutique in the whole of Europe. It’s the new flagship location for experiencing Rolex watches in the metal with every collection on display across the shop’s four floors. You can also discover their newest releases, including those from Watches and Wonders, which you can read about over on the Oracle Time website.

One of the floors is dedicated to Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned programme, as well as an exhibition featuring museum models from across the past 120 years of the brand. A selection of

rare, limited edition Rolexes will be available as well, including the gold, diamond-set Daytona, mother-of-pearl Daytona, diamond bezel Day-Dates, and meteorite Day-Date. On top of that there’s also an authorised service centre on site, meaning it really is your one stop shop for everything Rolex.

At the same time, Rolex have announced the newest member of the ‘Rolex Family’, the term they use for their collection of ambassadors or ‘testimonies’. It’s none other than Hollywood legend Leonardo DiCaprio. The actor has a surprisingly involved history with the watch industry - he’s an investor in Swiss brand ID Genève. I wonder if he will continue to make appearances at the brand’s events now that he’s attached to the Rolex name.

It’s the new flagship location for Rolex watches, with every collection on display across the shop’s four floors

A NEW ERA OF COSC

While there are several laboratories qualified to certify a watch as a chronometer, the most widely used and common is the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, aka COSC. And COSC have recently announced a rebrand and that means more than just a new logo. They’re taking a more active role in the watch industry at large with a refreshed social media presence, closer collaboration with clients and greater visibility to customers. As part of that COSC movements will be available with certification cards detailing the precise chronometric data from the testing process. Learn more at their revamped website, cosc.swiss

COSC have recently announced a rebrand and that means more than just a new logo

BREITLING REVIVES GALLET

Apparently, Breitling’s not content to be one of the biggest watchmakers around; they have group ambitions. After reviving and launching the first new watches from Universal Geneve, there were rumours and murmurs when they quietly followed up by buying the Gallet name. Gallet, as vintage aficionados will know, made from of the best, most robust chronographs around until quartz killed them in the 70s. But now we have confirmation that next year, they’re making a comeback.

Breitling has announced that in 2026, they’re officially relaunching Gallet and honestly, even though the steps wit Universal Geneve have been small and safe, I’m glad to hear that news. Breitling already have some serious expertise in chronographs and if they can bring back the MultiChron or Flying Officer, I’m more than a little bit excited. gallet.com

• For the past eight years financial giant Morgan Stanley have worked with LuxeConsult to publish an annual watch industry report that charts changes and fluctuations in the industry, as well as the predicted revenues of the top 50 brands in the market. They’ve published their 2024 report looking back at one of the most unsettled years in recent history. Let’s take a look at some key figures.

While many things change, some stay the same. Rolex continue their industry dominance at the top spot with a whopping 32% market share and an estimated CHF 10,583 million revenue (approx. £9,285 million). That’s more than triple their closest competitor, Cartier, with an 8% share and CHF 3,183

BIGGEST WATCH BRANDS OF 2024

million revenue (approx. £2,795 million).

It’s thought that Rolex sold over a million watches last year with an average price of over £11,400.

Given the uncertainty in the industry, it’s no surprise that outside of the top 10, which has remained the same, there are a lot of shifts in brand placement within the top 50. Tag Heuer are one of the biggest winners, moving up from 15 in 2023 to 11 in 2024 and seeing revenue increase from CHF 55 million (approx. £48 million) to CHF 670 million (approx. £588 million), which makes sense following their increasing involvement in Formula 1.

It’s worth noting though that Tag Heuer’s rise up the rankings isn’t exclusively due to their own growth –Tag Heuer’s 2024 performance would

only see them ranked 13th in 2023, showing that there has been a significant shrinking of revenue across several brands. IWC, Hublot, JaegerLeCoultre and Swatch have all slipped from 600 million+ bracket to 500 million. That also means brands like Hermès, which saw their revenue drop, actually moved up the rankings because they were more stable than others.

One of the terms that is being thrown around a lot is polarisation. Essentially a gap is growing between the brands at the top of the list and those below them, creating a more homogenised industry with fewer prevalent voices. The clearest statistic to show is that the top five brands on the list between them have a 59% market share.

Protein Studios, Shoreditch, London

WHEN?

Saturday 14th June 2025 WHERE?

WHY?

The chance to try on and buy an eclectic range of watches from 40 of the world’s coolest watchmakers

Tickets from £18. Oracle Time Members Get in Free. For more information and to keep updated with the event, use the QR code below or visit onhorology.com.

Due to demand we will be hosting two sessions.

SESSION 1: 09:30 – 13:30 SESSION 2: 14:00- 18:00

DISCOVER, TRY AND BUY FROM 40 WATCH BRANDS, INCLUDING:

“This event provides an excellent platform for Herbelin to build brand awareness, and we are excited to showcase our collections to a wider audience.”

“We’re thrilled about the upcoming Hands on Horology event! It’s a fantastic opportunity to connect even more deeply with our British community of watch enthusiasts, sharing our passion for fine watchmaking and strengthening lasting relationships. We can’t wait to see you there!”

“We’re always excited to attend new watch events, but Hands On Horology will be extra special for us. We’ve built a longstanding relationship with both Oracle Time and its readers – many of whom are passionate Christopher Ward owners. It’s always a pleasure to connect with them, especially those who wear the Dune Shoreline!”

We can’t wait to bring you ‘Hands On’ with our tough titanium tool watches!

“We love working with the Oracle Time team, so being part of this inaugural event in a great part of London is very exciting!”

“I, along with the Horage team are hugely excited at the opportunity Hands on Horology provides to properly showcase our innovative movement and materials technologies to an expectant audience in London, summer 2025.”

“It is our first show with Oracle Time and our first show in England, despite doing many meet ups around the country. I love London and I have been wanting to find a good show here for years.”

We are thrilled to participate in Hands On Horology 2025 as it’s an opportunity to share our vision of independent watchmaking, connect with passionate enthusiasts, and showcase SERICA’s singularity.

The rise of Swiss independent brands is well documented, with F.P. Journe and Laurent Ferrier among two of the most prominent names. Both are masters of haute horological creations from tourbillon to moonphases and more. However, sometimes the show of real skill comes not from the extravagant complications but the refined and immaculate execution of the basics. Which is why in this head to head we’re putting their classic collections front and centre that wow with just hours, minutes, and small seconds.

LAURENT FERRIER CLASSIC MICRO-ROTOR

While on the surface the Laurent Ferrier Classic MicroRotor is a quiet timepiece, there is a huge amount of detail under the hood, so to speak. The movement features exclusive mechanisms such as a silicon doubledirect impulse escapement. It also has an haute price of £70,000.

SCORES: Innovation: 78 Style: 88 Durability: 66 Value: 85 Desirability: 76 Head to Head Rating: 79

Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Micro-Rotor is an expression of pure class and charm with its elegantly brushed dial and drop shaped indexes, all presented in a 40mm white gold case.

Laurent Ferrier is a thirdgeneration watchmaker and a fan of motorsport, which has always coloured the brand’s approach to watches. The Classic MicroRotor, however, sits firmly on the dress side of the spectrum in comparison to their other creations.

Beneath the surface is the calibre FBN229.01 with automatic winding from its micro-rotor, supplying a 72-hour power reserve. It also has good anti-magnetic and friction resistance properties from the silicon escapement.

Aesthetically, the F.P. Journe Classique Chronomètre Bleu is a modern interpretation of classical design, with a vibrant blue dial, Arabic numerals, and a railway minute track. It also has distinctive droplet shaped hour and minute hands.

JOURNE CLASSIQUE CHRONOMÈTRE BLEU

The F.P. Journe Classique measures 39mm in diameter with a case made from tantalum, a much rarer material to find in watchmaking than gold due to the fact it’s extremely difficult to work with and has a high density, making it quite weighty on the wrist. However, it has a gorgeous dark tone that makes it all worthwhile.

F.P. Journe is perhaps the most hyped and talked about independent watchmaker of the modern age, with their Souverain and Souscription models repeatedly making headlines at auction.

The Classique is powered by the Calibre 1304, a full rose gold movement with a double barrel system providing a 56-hour power reserve via manual winding.

While on the surface the Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor and F.P. Journe Classique Chronomètre Bleu share a lot of similarities, both being dress watches with central hours and minutes as well as a small seconds subdial, dig into the specs and they are vastly different. For one, the Laurent Ferrier is automatic while the F.P. Journe is manual, meaning collectors will have very different experiences when it comes to winding them. Then there’s the materials; one in gold and the other in tantalum, which completely alters the durability and colour of the cases. Despite both being called classic models, the Laurent Ferrier feels the more traditional of the two, while the F.P. Journe has almost an experimental edge to it. It’s fascinating how they take such different approaches to the same, relatively simple concept. But that’s what being an independent is all about.

ORACLE TI M E O UT

@DiverseWatchCollector

What goes with a watchmaking icon like the Vacheron Constantin 222? Not much, in all honesty. While we’re evidently fans of cool, accessible watchmaking, there’s something to be said for this level of fine haute horology that more accessible brands just can’t express. Breguet however, there’s a name with just as much artisan heft. And the Breguet 7097 of Darren Sher – better known in Instagram as @DiverseWatchCollector – is a stunner.

“I focused on the Breguet 7097, using depth of field to highlight its intricate dial and movement,” explains Darren of the shot. “This watch beautifully showcases its inner workings, celebrating the marvel

of mechanical watchmaking. Breguet, with its precision craftsmanship and 250-year legacy of innovation, remains one of the most significant yet underrated brands in horology.”

He’s not wrong on that last point. While Abraham-Louis Breguet is a man of myth and legend, the modern brand these days plays second fiddle to a lot of the prestige maisons. Given their propensity of superlative guilloche, slim silhouettes and gorgeous movements, perhaps they do need more recognition. Still, it’s not all about Breguet.

Living up to his name, Darren has a lot of fingers in a lot of watch-adjacent pieces. Not only does he co-host That Watch Podcast, but he’s also launched a kids watch brand in Sher, to get kids

hooked nice and early. Want something more serious than a FlikFlak? Check them out. Apparently between all that he still has the chance to take a killer shot of a notoriously difficult to shoot watch. I’m not sure how there are enough hours in the day, but at least the 7097 is an incredible way to track them.

Want to showcase your own eye for a perfectly composed watch shot? Well, get your hands on this issue, get snapping and don’t forget to use #oracletimeout for your chance to nab a page to yourself next month.

CURATED FOR COLLECTORS

For now though, Oracle Time, Out.

SUBSCRIBE TO PRINT MAGAZINE

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MAESTRO

THE LEGACY OF THE MAESTRO, GÉRALD CHARLES GENTA, ENDURES IN THE FLAMBOYANTLY CREATIVE 25TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION MAESTRO GC39 JUMPING HOURS

For any watch aficionado worth the name, Gerald Genta is a known quantity. He’s the designer behind some of the most legendary timepieces ever built, enough that anything with a 1970s, industrial flavour is called Genta-esque. And yet, while Bulgari may have recently revived his name, it’s not actually Gerald Genta on the dial that’s continuing his legacy, but Gerald Charles.

You’ll have seen Gerald Charles on these very pages before; we’ve been covering the haute horology brand for a while now, with their funky, stepped cases and idiosyncratic six o’clock smile. And while there’s certainly a lot to love in the Maestro collection, the fact that it’s the brainchild of the most famous watch designer in history lends some real gravitas – especially as it was an endeavour of creative necessity.

“My father, Franco, first met Gerald Genta at an exhibition in Italy, where Genta asked him to help launch his eponymous brand in the country.” The frustratingly young Federico Ziviani has been CEO of Gerald Charles since 2018, but as he reminded me, his family has been intertwined with Genta’s legacy since the early 1980s. “It was a success and the two remained friends, so after he sold the Gerald Genta brand to Bulgari 1999, he came to my father saying, “Franco, we’re friends, can you help me?””

You see, Gerald Genta was a prolific watch designer. Without the ability to create, to design watches to develop new ideas, shapes and horological developments, he was adrift. He couldn’t live with the idea that he couldn’t design watches anymore. As to why he sold his own brand to Bulgari in the first place, who knows? You can be sure though that whatever the reason, it had a fair few zeros at the end. Either way, Bulgari gave him one lifeline: he could start a new brand under his two first names, Gerald Charles.

For anyone that’s come across Genta’s name solely off the back of his era-defining work in the '70s – the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – then Gerald Charles might seem a bit of an outlier when it comes to the great designer’s work. It’s worth nothing though that those were commissions, they were ideas for other brands, not for himself.

Under his own name, watches like the Octagonal, Retrograde and his incredibly successful Disney collection were worlds away from the harsh, industrial planes that turned his name into an adjective. So, when he launched the Maestro in 2005, it wasn’t a watch that most people would call ‘Genta-esque’, but it very much encapsulated the designer’s outlook on watches.

“The design language of Genta is very much visible in Gerald Charles,” explains Federico, “which always took inspiration from objects in real life. It’s what allowed him to create new watches, not copy what came before. In our case, it was baroque Italian architecture, with that curved construction and twostep case. It’s quite, let’s say heavy, visually but harmonious, too.”

It’s worth noting that the Maestro wasn’t the first Gerald Charles watch. It was preceded in 2001 by the Renaissance, a round, tactile, pebble-smooth watch that was a good deal sportier than the original Maestro. It also came on a rubber strap and, if you take a look at its six o’clock, there's the ‘smile’ that has since become a signature of the Gerald Charles brand.

All the way back then in 2001, the Renaissance was spanning the gap between sporty and ornate. It’s a delicate line to walk but one that, when he took over from his uncle in 2019, Federico made his main focus for what would become the relaunch of the Gerald Charles brand.

“I took the Maestro case and that rubber strap, I made the case slimmer and more wearable, giving it 100m water resistance versus the 30m we had had before. I replaced the precious metals with technical materials like titanium and sandblasted steel and really created this positive tension between extremely sporty performance and baroque, artistic design.”

As an aside, if the CEO of a brand having such a hand in the actual designing of a brand seems unusual, it is. Outside of tiny independents where the owner’s name is on the dial, it’s unheard of. But Federico’s family aren’t all businessmen and like the Maestro himself, there’s a deep passion for the creative there.

“The design language of Genta is very much visible in Gerald Charles, which always took inspiration from objects in real life. It’s what allowed him to create new watches, not copy what came before"

Set with 40 carats of diamonds and rubies for a special client in Malaysia, the customised Sarawak (pictured) by Gerald Charles Genta was revealed in 2007 and features a full pavé set bracelet and is the maestro’s first and the last asymmetric integrated bracelet timepiece

Tracing the lineage of the Maestro GC39 jumping hours (above), the Masterlink (far left) was the last integrated bracelet Gerald Genta ever designed, while the Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916

shares the same GC39 movement as the new anniversary Maestro

(left)

maestro

Continuing Gerald Genta’s legacy, the GC39 25th anniversary edition, the captivating, almost holographic dial is by far the first thing you’ll notice thanks to a double layer of guilloché

“Genta wasn’t really building a brand, it was a free flow of ideas and led to some very particular watches. So, while we have these amazing archives, we need to focus and build up the Maestro”

“The grandfather of my father was a very fine tailor in Verona,” says Federico of his great-grandfather. “He had a bespoke tailoring shop similar to the Kingsman shop. And my grandfather was a painter in his free time, I still have many of his pieces. So, when I took over Gerald Charles, the creative side was always going to come first.”

“Releasing the Masterlink was emotional, not just because it was an integrated bracelet, but because it was the last integrated bracelet Gerald Genta ever designed. We worked from a unique piece he's made, one fully set with 40 carats of diamonds and rubies for a special client in Malaysia.”

Obviously, they couldn’t just copy it wholesale, given the changes they had already made to the case, but the concept was there. So, the Gerald Charles team, including Head of the creative team, Octavio Garcia, refined it. They made it slimmer, tapering it right down to 7.9mm. They smoothed the integration, removing the lugs and after three and a half years of development, finally brought back the integrated bracelet to Genta’s own brand. And it was worth the wait; if you’ve not had the opportunity to try the Masterlink on, trust me, it’s one of the loveliest integrated bracelets around, from its seamless links to the way the six o’clock ‘smile’ blends into it.

So, what’s next for Gerald Charles as a brand? The soft relaunch since Federico took over in 2019 has been going well, enough that you might expect them to have already jumped right into their archives for another round, post-Maestro. Unfortunately, Genta’s approach doesn’t really lend itself to that way of thinking. His models were all dramatically different and in limited quantities, enough that they’re rarities, even among serious collectors. In fact, the only chance you’ll have to ever see most of them is at Gerald Charles’ newly christened museum in Geneva. As Federico puts it:

“Genta wasn’t really building a brand”, explains Federico. “It was a free flow of ideas and led to some very particular watches. So, while we have these amazing archives, we need to focus and build up the Maestro.”

Which takes us smoothly to the 25th anniversary limited edition Maestro GC39 jumping hours. As a brief look into those archives will show you, Genta was a fan of the complication, which is one that’s surprisingly tough to pull off. It’s not just a case of having a window rather than a hand, the energy release of an instantaneous switch from 11 to 12 is brutal on the delicacy of a watch movement. Hell, when Patek Philippe popped an instantaneous date into the new

Cubitus, they needed to reengineer the whole movement. Needless to say, the GC39 movement inside is doing some heavy lifting.

That however isn’t entirely new, seeing as it was previously used in Gerald Charles’ insane collaboration with Ducati. But the presentation here couldn’t be more different. The full wheel isn’t on show for one, with only a panoramic window at 12 o’clock, an inverse of the six o’clock smile. More than that though, there’s the dial, which is a mix of blue grained lapis lazuli and guilloche. But not just any guilloché: meta-guilloché.

This isn’t some kind of Silicon Valley virtual finishing; instead, it’s from the actual root word meta. First, you have your standard guilloché, already an artisan technique, with a fine, light pattern engraved onto the metal. Then, it’s given a protective coating, which then receives a second round of engraving, before the rest of the coating is removed. The result is an incredible double layer of guilloché that picks out a baroque-style star around the lapis portion of the dial. It’s almost holographic and even our superbly captured images can’t do it justice.

The dial is by far the first thing you’ll notice about the watch but the second is its size. Where the standard Maestro is more rectangular, the GC39 is squared, meaning it’s 42mm x 42mm sits large on the wrist. On the one hand, it gives the ornate dial and stepped bezel more room to breathe. Fortunately, the case is also made from titanium so while it looks sizeable, it doesn’t feel it.

Perhaps the most important thing to say however is that the GC39 25th anniversary edition feels like a Gerald Genta watch. Not, I hasten to add, the ultrafaceted pieces most new watch industry inductees come across, but the genuine, artistic, flamboyantly creative side of his work. In that way perhaps more than any other, Gerald Charles is the continuation of legacy that dates back much, much further than the last 25 years. And nothing says that better than the man himself, from the 2005 Gerald Charles catalogue:

“I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for the attention you paid to my new brand Gerald Charles. I created each of these timepieces with passion. As always since the beginning of my career, I have sought to combine technology and aesthetics. I searched for the ideal shape and used colours like a painter uses his painting to present you with a timepiece that will give you a sense of pleasure each time your eyes are drawn to it. If I succeeded in transmitting this passion in what you have just seen, then I am a happy artist who will continue on my creative path with ever-increasing energy.”

WORDS Sam Kessler

WATCHES & WONDERS: FIRST LOOK

> > Watches and Wonders has landed and with it the biggest slate of watch releases of the year. I’m not kidding, this is when a huge swathe of the watch industry shows off what they’ve got coming for the year ahead. In fact, by the time this piece is out, the Oracle Time team and I will be doing the rounds at Geneva’s Palexpo and discovering some fantastic timepieces. And sampling the occasional glass of champagne, of course.

However, as producing a print magazine requires a fair bit of prior knowledge, you won’t find all the newness here. We’ll be diving headfirst into Patek Philippe, Tudor, and of course, Rolex online, so keep an eye out there for our impressions on their 2025 releases. Instead, consider this a first (and rather comprehensive) look at some of the pieces we’re most excited to see. So let’s get into it.

THE DETAIL:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Automatic movement with 48hour power reserve

• Limited to 73 pieces, baume-et-mercier.com

A LANGE & SÖHNE Odysseus Honeygold

Lange’s twist on the integrated bracelet steel sports watch did more than well for the German brand, and it quickly became almost impossible to get one. Of course, it wasn’t going to take long before they offered it in a much less sporty context –and here it might just be the most delicious it’s ever been. The mix of Lange’s proprietary honey-gold and a rich brown dial makes for an absolutely gorgeous combination. It still ostensibly has sporty proportions but nobody’s going to risk knocking this beauty about. Collectors take note, it’s POA so brace your bank accounts.

BAUME & MERCIER

Riviera Chronograph Flyback

The 1970s-flavoured Riviera breathed new life into the brand’s collection and now they’re adding to the sporty feel with a quartet of chronographs, one of which stands out: the Riviera Flyback. A vintage throwback with a central tachymeter scale, lovely golden dial, rhodium plated indexes, and Roman numerals at 12 and six, it’s as close to the original ‘70s line as possible. It’s a fine balance between modern and vintage, and while that’s a phrase I normally hate trotting out, it’s perfect here.

THE DETAIL:

• 40.5mm honey-gold case with 120 water resistance

• L155.1 calibre automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve

• POA, alange-soehne.com

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT

Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

What was once the most affordable perpetual calendar in the world is back, and there’s a lot of competition these days. Frederique Constant are really pushing the vintage feel with a salmon dial and a svelte, 40mm case, laid out as classically as possible, right down to the onion crown. Obviously, the kicker here is price. And this great looking perpetual calendar will set you back £8,695. This isn’t some Chinese-built microbrand, this is a Swiss watch. And I can potentially afford it. That’s just a little bit mental.

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• FC-776 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £8,695, frederiqueconstant.com

BELL & ROSS

BR03 Skeleton Grey Steel

This year skeletons take centre stage for Bell & Ross – or at least a slight stretch of the term ‘skeleton’ – one with a sapphire dial, the other two with funky bridges and plenty of openworking. Of those two, the lumed, black version is coolest in the dark, but for all other conditions the monochromatic, industrial metal look of the Grey Steel nabs it. The inset indexes, deep inner bezel and signature square case all compound into the kind of watch anyone that works with a wrench will adore.

THE DETAIL:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• BR CAL.328 automatic movement with 54-hour power reserve

• £4,990, bellross.com

GRAND SEIKO

Kiri Purple

The Mount Iwate dial just hasn’t caught on quite as well as Grand Seiko’s Birch or Snowflake pieces, but this absolutely stunning purple version might change that. This lilac-adjacent hue’s actually taken from the purple paulownia – or Kiri – the prefectural flower of Shizukuishi, Grand Seiko’s home. It’s simple, refined and the perfect example of what people love about Grand Seiko: unassuming beauty backed by proper mechanics. In this case, that’s the manual-wind 9S64, which makes it a surprisingly affordable prestige proposition.

GERALD CHARLES

Maestro GC Sport

Sure, it might all be about their 25th anniversary this year – hence our cover star – but that hasn’t stopped Gerald Charles proving the versatility of their baroque Maestro case with a sportier, tennis focused version in fittingly optic yellow. The rugged grade 5 titanium case has been darkened to better suit the bright strap and dial, and with 5G shock resistance, it’s as solid inside as out. I doubt it’ll make Richard Mille worry for their ‘wear-whileplaying’ crown, but the fact that it’s in the conversation says a lot.

THE DETAIL:

• 39mm titanium case with 100m water resistance

• 2.0 calibre automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve

• £15,800, limited to 200 pieces, geraldcharles.com

THE DETAIL:

• 36.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• 9S64 manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £5,100, grand-seiko.com

It’s simple, refined and the perfect example of what people love about Grand Seiko: unassuming beauty backed by proper mechanics

THE DETAIL:

• 45.3mm titanium case with 50m water resistance

• 501-CM calibre manualwind movement with 72hour power reserve

• CHF 58,000 (approx. £50,700), hytwatches.com

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance

• HMC 201 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve

• Price to be confirmed, h-moser.com

HYT

HYT continue to have fun with their unique brand of hydromechanical watchmaking, now in a trio of titanium colourways. While the darker versions are potentially more wearable, there’s something about the white and red with its Alaska Project overtones that suits the ultra-faceted, no holds barred look. Despite the size – and they are big at over 45mm – they’re lightweight and, thanks to their intense rubber straps, more comfortable than anything of that size should be.

H MOSER & CIE

Endeavour Centre

Seconds Purple Enamel

Purple is the colour of the year and few have done it better this year than Moser. The hazy grand feu enamel has a nearly mesmerising texture to it and is thankfully given plenty of room to breathe without so much as a logo in the way. Paired with elegant hands and the classic Endeavour case, it’s the perfect less is more approach. It’s still prestige of course, and the HMC 201 is a stunner through the exhibition caseback, but you’ll be hard-pressed to take your eyes off the front long enough to look.

S1 Bead Blasted Titanium Red

watches and wonders

ORIS

Big Crown Pointer Date

Trust Oris to bring out some perfectly summery watches in time for the warmer months. This time they’ve taken their flagship Crown Pointer with its signature date hand and updated it in a pair of cool colours: an earthy, springtime green and a warm baked terracotta. Of the two, the latter’s my pick. Green’s pretty common these days and while it’s nice here, the pink-orange terracotta is holiday ready. Plus, any chance to see the Big Crown Pointer Date in more variations is good with me –especially if it comes with a 120-hour power reserve movement.

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• 403 calibre automatic movement with 120-hour power reserve

• CHF 3,600 (approx. £3,150), oris.ch

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Hybris Artistica

Another year, another slice of horological intensity from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The fact that this is essentially a reskin of 2023’s marquee piece doesn’t detract from the fact that it’s a combination of gyrotourbillon and reversible case – especially as somehow, the main event is the dial. The decorative plates and bridges have been laser cut for precise lines then lacquered for a distinctive, fantastically ornate look. There are a lot of Reversos on offer this year, but this one’s undoubtedly going to steal the limelight – as it should.

THE DETAIL:

• 51.1mm x 31mm white gold case with 30m water resistance

• 179 calibre manual-wind movement with 40-hour power reserve

• POA, limited to 10 pieces, jaeger-lecoultre.com

PANERAI LUMINOR

Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech

Panerai’s latest is a bit of a mouthful but in reality is a much more elegant, streamlined watch than you might expect. The Italian heritage watchmaker’s QPs are already among the more minimal, but here they’ve made the mechanics the main feature, with a sapphire dial to show off the various wheels underneath. The solid platinumtech case makes its 44mm case gym worthy, but it’s also a good reminder that while it might have the outline of a diver, this is a prestige piece of haute horology.

THE DETAIL:

• 44mm platinumtech case with 50m water resistance

• P.4100 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve

• Price TBC, panerai.com

PIAGET

Polo 79 White Gold

While this one isn’t exactly groundbreaking, the Polo 79 was one of the most beautiful things Piaget has released in the past few years (at least in the watch world), so a new version of it in monochromatic white gold is always something to get excited about. With the same dimensions and 1980s style as last year’s GPHG-winning yellow gold version, the new watch is brighter, icier and even more eye-catching. Yes, it’s a simple colour swap, but what a difference a new metal makes.

THE DETAIL:

• 38mm white gold case with 50m water resistance

• 1200P1 calibre automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve

• Price to be confirmed, piaget.com

ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Grande Complication

Well, this is… a lot. Celebrating 30 years of boundary-defying iconoclastic watchmaking is no easy feat, but I reckon Roger Dubuis have pretty much nailed it. Of course, that means a tourbillon and a bi-retrograde display, both brand signatures by now. But it also includes a full perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. Usually, the Excalibur’s aesthetic intensity comes from architectural, skeletonised bridges. Here it comes from everything bar the kitchen sink (the kitchen sink of course being a rattrapante chronograph). It’s a lot –and yet still somehow less mental than the Knights of the Round Table.

THE DETAIL:

• 45mm rose gold case with 50m water resistance

• Calibre RD118 manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve

• POA, limited to eight pieces, rogerdubuis.com

RAYMOND WEIL Freelancer Complete Calendar

After the immense success of their classical Millesime collection, Raymond Weil have turned a similar rose-tinted spotlight onto their flagship Freelancer collection. In style, it looks to be filling the void left by Carl F Bucherer, but at a fraction of the price, a handsome mix of silver and rose gold with a tastefully minimal complete calendar and moonphase. It might just be one of the prettiest things Raymond Weil has ever built. It is also available in blue and steel but honestly, this is the way to go.

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• RW3281 automatic movement with 56hour power reserve

• £3,195, raymond-weil.co.uk

TAG HEUER

Carrera Day Date Bi-Colour

Of everything on this list, this is the watch I’d probably wear the most. The Carrera is a nowclassic everyday wearer, 41mm of stainless steel and a refined day-date dial. It ticks all the boxes. The bi-colour version though ticks boxes I didn’t even realised it needed. A bit more of a retro look in steel and rose gold, backed by a solid automatic movement, it’s one of the more ‘everyday’ pieces launched at Watches & Wonders, but that’s very much to its benefit.

TRILOBE

Une Folle Journée

Rhodium-Plated Edition

The original Une Folle Journée is one of my low-key favourite aesthetic complications; the three concentric rings waltzing around where the dial would be on a classical watch, showing the movement underneath. This time, Trilobe are making that horological backdrop a major feature by rhodium-plating the bridges. The result is an incredibly bright flash of silver, pairing nicely with the three green indicator rings. Try it on and tell me it’s not stunning.

THE DETAIL:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• TH31-02 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve

• CHF 8,250 (approx. £7,200), tagheuer.com

THE DETAIL:

• 40.5mm titanium case with 50m water resistance

• X-Centric calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve

• €23,300 (approx. £19,600), trilobe.com

The result is an incredibly bright flash of silver, pairing nicely with the three green indicator rings. Try it on and tell me it’s not stunning

THE DETAIL:

• 44mm carbon and Nylo-Foil case with 200m water resistance

• UN-347 calibre automatic movement with 90-hour power reserve

• £30,170, ulysse-nardin.com

ULYSSE NARDIN Diver [AIR]

If there’s one thing you don’t want to run out of underwater it’s air, but in this case Ulysse Nardin are using the word in the context of ‘light as’. That’s because this new, intensely skeletonised twist on the already tech-heavy Diver Skeleton X weighs just 52g – and 8kg of that is just down to the strap. That makes it the lightest mechanical diver ever, not just feather weight but practical. The construction of carbon and upcycled fishing nets contains a titanium movement, able to stand up to 5,000G impacts and 200m of water. It’s a lot of effort to create something that feels like nothing at all.

ZENITH GFJ

As Zenith celebrate their 160th anniversary they’re taking the opportunity to phase out the longstanding entry-level Elite collection in favour of something much more metiers d’art. The GFJ – named in honour of founder Georges Favre-Jacot – not only has a stunning triple threat vari-blued dial with guilloche, lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl, but it houses a revamped calibre 135. If you’ve not heard of that before, don’t worry, it kind of gets lost in the shadow of the El Primero. But it was an incredible historical movement that’s now back in action with a few modern twists. In short, the GFJ is much, much more than an Elite replacement.

THE DETAIL:

• 39.15mm platinum case with 50m water resistance

• Calibre 135 manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve

• CHF 48,900 (approx. £43,000), zenith-watches.com

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface

After starting the year strong with the steel 222, Vacheron Constantin are continuing their anniversary celebrations with a rare look inside their watches – from the front. Part of a trio of openface Traditionnelle models, where last year’s Patrimony looked back, this perpetual calendar offers a much more modern face to Vacheron watchmaking. It still has plenty of the maison’s hallmarks, from the engraving across the remaining dial inspired by a Maltese cross and a retrograde date, and the kind of finishing you want from the Poincon de Geneve-toting, oldest watchmaker in the world. It’s a very different Vacheron, but I’m very much here for it.

THE DETAIL:

• 41mm platinum case with 30m water resistance

• 2460 QPR31/270 calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve

• POA, limited to 370 pieces, vacheron-constantin.com

INDEPENDENT BRANDS AT GENEVA WATCH WEEK 2025

> > WORDS Thor Svaboe < <

The behemoth that is Watches and Wonders is growing exponentially at the Palexpo in Geneva, as the pandemic-ending Baselworld and SIHH becomes a distant memory. But in parallel with the growing exhuberance of the big brand booths comes the flair of the Independents. This year the smaller brands are cheekily based at Villa Sarasin for Time To Watches, big-brand baitingly close to the Palexpo halls, and in the city centre. What they offer is less safety in numbers and heritage, but balanced out by an imaginative flair that has ever more collectors waking up to indie power.

BIANCHET

B 1.618 UltraFino

True to the Bianchet design language, the new B 1.618 UltraFino is a tonneau-shaped sports watch, but with a slim difference. It features the rarity of a titanium automatic tourbillon movement and one of the sleekest integrated bracelets we’ve seen this year. The UT01 movement is an engineering marvel measuring just 3.85mm thick and weighing only 8 grams. As one of the very few ultrathin automatic flying tourbillon movements in titanium encased in a 40mm case of brushed grade 5 titanium, the UltraFino’s openworked intricacies are tougher than they look, boasting 5000G shock resistance and 5ATM depth rating.

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm titanium case with 50m water resistance

• Swiss automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve

• From CHF 55,500 (approx. £48,750), bianchet.com

DOXA Sub 250T GMT

Doxa has built up their reborn brand with a steady evolution of the Sub 200 and 300 ranges known from the wrist of a certain Cousteau. And even if their 43mm Sub 300 is significantly smaller than its dimensions signal, the world wants smaller sports watches. This was evident in the reengineering last year that brought us a brand new Sub 200 in 39mm, but this year they’ve finally given us the travel tool we’ve asked for. In fact we haven’t seen a GMT from Doxa since the 2006 SUB 750T GMT, and the muchawaited Sub 250T GMT comes in a new 40mm case with a barrage of 18 references.

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 250m water resistance

• Swiss automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve

• From CHF 2,350 (approx. £2,050), doxawatches.com

BYRNE Star

Byrne offer complexities with a fun twist and a tech-forward stance. This time they offer a baffling twist on the traditional world timer complication, riffing off their quadranttwisting style in a slim 38mm case. Three calibres in just three years. That is no mean feat, and it comes after the brand’s 2022 foundation no less. This time we’re treated to a scintillating mix of blue and yellow, as the duo of John Byrne and Claire Cohen have subverted the classical image of the world timer through a central rotating disk, which makes tracking time easy, and four rotating cubes at the dial’s cardinal points.

THE DETAIL:

• 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• In-house manual Caliber 5558 movement with 66-hour power reserve

• CHF 32,500 (approx. £28,500), byrnewatch.com

KRAYON Anyday

Krayon is a brand marked by innovative dial art and movement tech, balancing modernity with the appeal of traditional finishing. This year we see a return of their Y-logoed guilloche dial in the deep blue centre of the poetically named Anyday. With a crescent date pointer and a brand-new complication, Krayon offers a first in the world of calendar watches with a new 378-part movement. The Anyday dial continuously displays each day and date for the entire month as the five-day working week in dark blue, with Saturday and Sunday appearing in light grey. And just like a traditional desk planner it offers a five-week span at a single glance.

THE DETAIL:

• 39mm white gold case with 50m water resistance

• Caliber C032 manufacture manual movement with 72-hour power reserve

• Price TBD, krayon.ch

MAEN x Nico Leonard

Maen is a sharp, small brand from Sweden with a solid line-up offering a big bang for retro bucks. In a rather bold twist, this is the first watch collaboration with YouTube star Nico Leonard, and in quietly spoken contrast to his exuberant personality. It’s a modern take on the vintage jump hour or Guichet concept. This isn’t something we see often, and we now wonder whether Louis Vuitton actually sparked a new hot trend this winter. With a 34mm width and comfortably short lug length, the 1.7mm thickness will make it a dressy nugget with a broad-shouldered demeanour, and we’re all about the Hublot-ish modern juxtaposition of a striated FKM rubber strap.

AWAKE

Sơ n Mài Frosted

Leaf Green

French brand Awake has a refined take on French 39mm chic, after making a segue last year from their tool watch minimalism into dial art. The new release offers an evolution of this modern approach to metiers d’art. As we saw last autumn in the S ơ n Mài collection, the 39mm case frames a minimal dial expanding on their technique of colour, lacquer and applied silver leaf. The techniques are from Vietnam, and Awake works with artisans in the country to complete the work. Offering new colours, we have a soft spot for the nature-inspired deep, forest-camo like dial of the Frosted Leaf version of the 2025 S ơ n Mài.

THE DETAIL:

• 34mm steel case with 50m water resistance

• Automatic LJP G101 movement with 68-hour power reserve

• Price €2,075 excluding tax (approx. £1,750), awakewatches.com

THE DETAIL:

• 34mm steel case with 50m water resistance

• Modified automatic ST1721 movement with 38-hour power reserve

• Price €999 (approx. £840), maenwatches.com

BREVA Segreto di Lario

Breva Geneve in their revived guise gives us a sense of the dolce vita, in fact their latest model is named after an iconic breeze known from Lake Como in Italy. Under the stewardship of Julien Haenny, the brand offers a suave take on independent watchmaking with the new collection Segreto di Lario. At the heart of the 25-piece limited edition 18K red gold cushion case sits a new calibre created by Jean-François Mojon based on the Chronode calibre C101. The manual-winding movement comes loaded with dual barrels, offering an exceptional seven-day power reserve, and a delightful dial design in brushed blue with an innovative twin retrograde power reserve.

THE DETAIL:

• 41mm 18K 5N gold case with 50m water resistance

• Modified manual C101 movement with seven-day power reserve

• Price CHF 48,000 excluding tax (approx £42,150), breva-watches.com

THE DETAIL:

• 41mm steel case with 50m water resistance

• Sellita SW266-1 Regulator movement with 38-hour power reserve

• Price CHF 4,250 excluding tax (approx. £3,725), louiserard.com

LOUIS ERARD Regulator x GoS

Louis Erard have two great USPs, one being a deep love of the marine chronometer-inspired Regulator design. The other is an instinctive feel for the power of collaborations, and this time Manuel Emch has focused on metallurgy together with GoS Watches in Sweden. The forged wonder of Damascus steel, a GoS speciality, becomes the focal point of an enigmatic dial. With a twirling, vortex shape for the seconds at six o’clock, the minimalist watch has industrial-looking chapter rings for the minute and hours, where recognisable blued spear hands enliven the monochromatic scene. In keeping with the Scandinavian roots of GoS, the strap is made from braided salmon leather.

THE DETAIL:

• 41mm ceramic case with 100m water resistance

• Sellita SW200-SC automatic movement with 41hour power reserve

• Price TBD, formexwatch.com

FORMEX

Ceramica Skeleton COSC GT

Formex does a strong job within a packed budget segment, and surprise us here with their first all-ceramic piece. If you need reminding of its scratch-proof properties, ceramic is seven-times harder than steel, which makes for a great everyday watch. Adding to the dark vibe of the black 41mm GT is a COSC-certified movement with an open worked dial featuring popping gold details. With its brushed and polished angular case and distinctive design, this new chapter of tech-forward design from Formex has strong form and is remarkably light at only 137 grams including the all-ceramic bracelet.

DEPANCEL

Sèrie-R

French retro charmers Depancel have their foot back on the throttle, with the Série-R offering more of their race-infused design. It takes a leaf out of the Heuer Monaco book of chronograph lore, but manages to remain fresh and different, and hey, what you took as another petrolhead chrono is in fact a very useful calendar complication powered by the proven Miyota 9120 movement. The strong case lines are inspired by the vintage Delage D8 Aera Coupe, and combines the brand’s dashboard design and a twin-level blue sunburst dial in a svelte 36mm case.

THE DETAIL:

• 36mm steel case with 50m water resistance

• Miyota 9120 calendar self-winding movement with 40-hour power reserve

• Price €850 (approx. £715), depancel.com

CARL SUCHY & SOHNE Vienna

Austrian watchmaker Carl Suchy & Sohne have always been an interesting brand with their funky line-engraved dials, but in the fittingly named Vienna they’ve pulled back on certain aesthetic quirks for a more modern, minimalist feel. And it works. Incredibly well, in fact. The dial is split between horizontal lines on the right, vertical on the left and a ‘proof of life’ style counter at six o’clock that alternately matches and contrasts. It’s backed by a beautiful Vaucher movement and, given the men behind the Vienna – Robert Punkenhofer, Eric Giroud and Marc Jenni – the Vienna’s beautiful new everything shouldn’t be too much of a surprise.

THE DETAIL:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance

• 5401 calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve

• carlsuchy.com

MARATHON OSAR-D

It’s not all high-end haute horological madness this year. The Canadian tool watch maestros at Marathon are bigging (and smalling) up their OSAR-D collection with an Explorer-sized 36mm at one end and a Bear Grylls sized 46mm at the other. All OSAR-D models are also now available in crisp white dials suited to Arctic conditions. Sure, you could pick yourself up a bit of metiers d’art or a tourbillon, but if you’re after something that won’t live in the safe, Marathon’s a good place to start.

THE DETAIL:

• 36mm / 46mm stainless steel case with

• SW200-1 / SW600 b with a 38hour / 62-hour power reserve

• $1,000 - $2,500 (approx. £780£1,950), marathonwatch.com

HORAGE Deca Flux

While not strictly new for Geneva Watch Week, it’s still the first opportunity we’ll have to get hands-on with the newly launched Horage Deca Flux – and for anyone that misses the Milgauss, this is an exciting one. Equipped with the brand’s new K3, silicon-equipped movement, the new watch is, in line with its inspirations, highly magnetic resistant, but it also has a four-day power reserve and superb, laser-engraved finishing to boot. Even if those specs don’t sell you, there’s enough to love about the teal blue sunray dial and red lightning bolt hand that the punchy CHF 2,500 price tag would be suspicious if this was any other brand.

THE DETAIL:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• K3 automatic movement with 96-hour power reserve

• CHF 2,500 (approx. £2,200), horage.com

SCHWARZ ETIENNE Geometry Black

The Geometry is for me, at least, the coolest thing that Schwarz Etienne make, which is saying something given the Roswell. But it’s always been just that little too visually busy. Enter the Geometry Black, a refined, streamlined, monochrome take on the intense, multi-finish dial. Now those finishes are highlighted in texture rather than colour and the result is a much cooler creation from white hot zeitgeist designer Éric Giroud. Backed by an equally black movement, it’s serious watchmaking having some serious fun.

THE DETAIL:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• ASE 200.02 automatic movement with 86-hour power reserve

• £23,596, limited to 100 pieces, schwarz-etienne.ch

HERBELIN

Newport Chronograph Heritage

Two years ago, Herbelin celebrated 35 years of their flagship Newport collection with a limited-edition chronograph – and now that handsome, archival design is back in a fully-fledged collection. With its rounded case, tachymeter bezel and central lugs, it’s aesthetically somewhere between the early racing stopwatches and the more modern breed of racing timepiece, here in a glamorous mix of black and gold. It’s not all looks either; with 100m water resistance, a glassbox sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel, it’s rugged enough for a solid everyday wearer – and it’s priced to match at £2,700. That’s a lot of distinctive French watchmaking for the money.

THE DETAIL:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Sellita SW510 automatic movement with 62-hour power reserve

• £2,700, limited to 300 pieces, herbelin.com

BALTIC Scalegraph Tour Auto Edition

It’s Baltic’s third year sponsoring the Tour Auto, a Paris to Nice race this April, and to coincide they’re bringing a new angle to bear on their retiring Bicompax chronograph. With its light blue dial, darker blue tachymeter bezel and the Tour de France Automobile colours on the big-eye minute subdial, this isn’t the classic vintage Baltic chrono. Even the indexes – here curved lines instead of the usual straight indexes – are a world apart. We’ll see if this marks a new direction for Baltic, although that’ll depend on the first non-limited Scalegraph they do. But for now, this is a fun, fresh twist on the almighty micro’s specific brand of watchmaking.

THE DETAIL:

• 39.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Sellita SW510-M manual-wind movement with 63-hour power reserve

• €1,750 (approx. £1,500), limited to 400 pieces, baltic-watches.com

Words by SAM KESSLER

What is the Poinçon de Genève and why does it matter?

—There are plenty of different certifications in the watch world, from the country a timepiece is made to the hallmarking of its precious metals. In an industry where provenance is a big deal, knowing where something is from is non-negotiable (even if it can be a little tenuous at times). So too is performance, with movements going through their own set of qualifications, with organisations like COSC and METAS testing very specific, measurable aspects of chronometric rigour.

There’s one certification however that goes above and beyond the basics of timekeeping. It brings together performance, expertise and place like no other: the Poinçon de Genève.

The Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, if you insist on anglicising everything, has been around for a good long while now. In fact, the seal first came into being way back in 1886 when Switzerland was having a slight issue. These days, the country’s

known for watchmaking almost as much as chocolate, but back then watchmakers were moving out of the city and moving abroad. Geneva as a city needed a way to give some gravitas to their watches.

The answer was essentially the watchmaking equivalent of what the French call Appellation d’origine contrôlée in wine. These area-specific classifications denote a bottle not only made in a certain area, but using certain grape variants and traditional methods of production. It’s often a byword for quality without actually saying that. The Poinçon de Genève is much the same.

In order to qualify for the seal, a watch must demonstrate three things. First and historically the most important is that they’re a Geneva-founded watchmaker. This was originally to try and encourage watchmakers to stay in Geneva amid the industry exodus in order to qualify for the seal. As Geneva’s global reputation for watchmaking really took off, it became a nod to quality in and of itself.

Second, they must demonstrate impeccable aesthetics and perfect assembly across the movement components and finishing. This is what is most often associated with the Poinçon de Genève. The general idea here is to remove any sign of machining and leave only handmade artisanry.

So, edges are bevelled and polished, wheels and other flat surfaces are circular grained or finished with perlage and bridges have all traces of machining removed. They may be useful for trapping dust, but this emphasis on hiding the machine work is historically the main use of Cotes de Genève, or Geneva Stripes. Even the sinks for ruby bearings have to be polished, and the jewels themselves ‘semi-brilliant’ so a feature all their own. In short, if any visible machining remains on any component, it’s disqualified.

Until relatively recently, the Geneva Seal stopped there, with a focus entirely on the finishing. But in 2011 and 2014, the requirements were updated with reliability criteria. 2011, incidentally, was when the seal was updated to include the entire watch, not just the movement. Between them, those changes meant a much more demanding set of hoops to jump through and coincided with Timelab’s takeover of the testing in 2010.

What you can certainly trust is that any watch stamped with the Geneva Seal is not only accurate and reliable, but a masterclass in excessive, handmade finishing, which is really what high-end watchmaking is all about

Timelab is a big mover and shaker in the Swiss watch world. Founded in 2008, they were tasked with taking over Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres meaning that any time you hear of COSC-certified, it went through them. Needless to say, they have some experience in the field of performance testing.

As to what that testing entails, it’s mostly just auditing what watchmakers say they’re making. For power reserve, every watch is tested to at least -0.5 and +3 bar, so half an atmosphere and three times atmosphere, or 30m underwater. If the water resistance is claimed to be higher, it’s tested to that instead. The same sort of thing goes for power reserve and functionality, too. If the watch does what its maker says it can for as long as they say it can, it passes.

As you’d hope, accuracy testing for the Poinçon de Genève is a little more concrete. It’s tested for seven days solid. Manual-wind watches can be wound every 24-hours; automatic watches must rely on their automation. Readings are taken at the start of the week and again on day seven and if it’s out by less than a minute at the end – compared against a reference clock – then it can pass.

Now, this all makes the accuracy testing here far less exhaustive than COSC. You might think that it’s due to the full watch, rather than just the movement being tested, but METAS does that too and it’s far more extreme. The bottom line is simply because that, while reliability is an integral part of a Genevan watch, at this level it’s much, much more about the craftsmanship.

So, who actually qualifies for the Geneva seal? By limiting the pool to brands with watchmaking based in Geneva, recipients are limited by nature. In fact, there are only five that currently put their watches through Poinçon de Genève testing: Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, and Louis Vuitton. You might be wondering, why not Patek Philippe? Well, they used to enter their watches, but in 2009 decided instead to set up their own testing that included gemsetting among other things.

Personally, any maison that relies on in-house testing feels a little dodgy to me, but if you can’t trust Patek Philippe, then who can you trust? What you can certainly trust is that any watch stamped with the Geneva Seal is not only accurate and reliable, but a masterclass in excessive, handmade finishing, which is really what high-end watchmaking is all about.

Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Louis Vuitton, and Ateliers deMonaco are currently the only watchmakers based in Geneva that qualify for Poinçon de Genève testing, while Patek Philippe do their own testing in-house

The bottom line is simply because that, while reliability is an integral part of a Genevan watch, at this level it’s much, much more about the craftsmanship

As the Poinçon de Genève takes the form of a coat of arms, it’s worth asking what it actually means. Well, in heraldic vocabulary, it’s described as: “per pale or and gules, dexter: a dimidiated eagle displayed issuant from the partition sable, crowned langued beaked, membered and armed of the second; sinister: a key in pale upward contourné gold.”

So, to break that down: an eagle in black and red with a gold background. On the right, you have a golden key in gold with a red background. Underneath is the phrase

‘Post Tenebras Lux’. It’s a nice-looking coat of arms, right? I wish my family had a coat of arms like that instead of a generational fascination with watches. And like any coat of arms, it has meaning. The Eagle is actually that of the Holy Roman Emperor, harkening back to the days the bishops of Geneva belonged to the Empire. The key is one of St. Peter’s golden Keys of Heaven. And if that all sounds more religious than horological, the motto brings it all together: ‘After Darkness, Light’, the motto of protestant reformation. Now you know.

THE MEANING OF THE GENEVA SEAL

DIALLED IN

What Does The Geneva Seal Have To Do To Be Relevant?

— Words by — CHRIS HALL

The Poincon de Geneve – or Geneva Seal, as it’s usually translated; ‘stamp’ would be more accurate but Geneva Stamp sounds like a rather aggressive manoeuvre – is the self-appointed “certificate of excellence” for watches produced within the city or canton of Geneva. It’s overseen by a state-backed foundation called TimeLab, which also runs chronometer certification in the Geneva Observatory, and it sets minimum standards for finishing as well as functional performance – water resistance, power reserve, daily accuracy and so on.

So far, so good – just what you need to know whether you’re buying a truly great watch or not. There’s just one problem: hardly anyone uses it and as far as I can tell, hardly anyone cares.

The Poincon de Geneve suffered a body blow in 2009 when Patek Philippe absconded, preferring to mark its own homework with the solipsistic Patek Philippe Seal. Currently only five brands make use of its services: Chopard, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, and Roger Dubuis, and of them only Vacheron is putting substantial quantities through the PdG process. I can’t be certain as no figures are available, but I suspect fewer watches are Poincoin de Geneve certified now than at any previous time in history. Meanwhile, Geneva is bustling with exciting watchmaking from respected brands – F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Andersen Geneve, Laurent Ferrier,

Speake-Marin, Franck Muller and others – who seem to have no trouble maintaining a reputation for quality without it.

Moreover, the brands that do use it aren’t exactly shouting about it. You’ll find it tucked away on their websites, but not within a hundred miles of their advertising or marketing campaigns. They know it doesn’t sell watches. I polled watch fans on Instagram and in my newsletter – hardly scientific, but indicative – and more than two thirds of people felt the Poincon de Geneve to be irrelevant.

TimeLab director Alexandre Chiuvé told me that several brands are considering joining up, which could certainly change things, and that when it comes to evolving the certification itself, “topics such as new materials, repairability, and eco-responsibility are currently under review, demonstrating that the Poinçon de Genève evolves with the times while preserving its heritage”.

Such factors would massively change the PdG’s purpose and by extension, the criteria by which we judge a watch. There’s a big disconnect between what quasi-governmental organisations deem important and what drives customers’ purchases, but if sustainability and repairability were part of the test, would that influence the likes of Vacheron Constantin to change their ways? I wonder how far TimeLab’s remit can stretch before it’s ruling on matters that have little to do with the watches themselves. Make the test too hard to pass, and brands might realise they can sell watches just fine without it, but fail to move with the times and you risk slipping even further into irrelevance.

In other walks of life, there are designations – like B Corp – that provide valuable information to the consumer. I find that more meaningful than being asked to believe that Roger Dubuis’ finishing and Vacheron Constantin’s are somehow equal. If TimeLab can tell me something indisputable, with authority, about brands’ sustainability practices, that would be a real improvement on the status quo. But if the new criteria are vague enough for all currently certified brands to sail through, it’s just lip service. Let’s see if it has the appetite to take on the responsibility.

There’s a big disconnect between what quasigovernmental organisations deem important and what drives customers’ purchases

WORDS

Scarlett Baker

THE INTERVIEW:

MAX VERSTAPPEN

THE FOUR-TIME FORMULA 1 WORLD DRIVERS’ CHAMPIONSHIP WINNER REFLECTS ON BEATING THE CLOCK WITH TAG HEUER, HIS COMBINATION FOR SUCCESS, AND TRYING TO ACT NORMAL

Hordes of people are flocking around a billboard. Robed in an assortment of blue and orange caps, the masses savour their moment to pose by the oversized poster. You can spot this Orange Army – as they call themselves – from afar: the devout fan base of four-time Formula 1 World Champion, Max Verstappen. Saluting the pictured Dutch Lion with selfies and screams, the frenzied enthusiasts are mere hours away from discovering the livery of the 2025 Formula 1 season at the inaugural F1 75 Live broadcast in London, marking the sport’s milestone anniversary.

Verstappen isn’t ready just yet to reveal all. We’re meeting in west London a few hours before, with fans already decorating tube lines in their team kits. Yet, the current kingpin of the track is calm amidst all the pageantry, the composed spirit of a seasoned victor taking each day as it comes. He’s decorated in his own updated livery, a dark blue team kit more understated than the season before, but still bearing a chest that’s healthily decorated with sponsors.

The mood is light and Verstappen forthright. Noticeably so, but it’s easy to forget that racing drivers are adept at hurling themselves around sharp corners at high speeds, just as they are skilled communicators, repeatedly relaying crucial data by radio to their engineers.

It makes for a straightforward interlocutor, but a confident one, too. He stands on arrival and offers a firm handshake. While fan-fuelled mania brews just 10 miles away, there’s no spectacle here — only a sense of calm normalcy, a peer in age, despite being one of the most celebrated sporting names on the planet.

As the evening spectacle approaches, Verstappen glances at his wrist — not out of a need to track time until lights out, nor out of indifference, but to appreciate a watch clearly destined for

him: a TAG Heuer Monaco. “Living in Monaco, [knowing] the history of Monaco, and winning Monaco – there’s a lot of Monaco attached to it,” shares the Oracle Red Bull Racing frontman. His life has come to orbit the microstate along the French Riviera, but such is the case with most Formula 1 drivers, given its preferred geographical logistics when touring the globe.

But TAG Heuer’s hallmark model means more than just a symbol of topography for the champion. Sure, it’s a paean tribute to a rich automotive history, considered one of the ultimate racing watches following its release in 1969 in the era of Heuer without the TAG – hat tip to Steve McQueen in Le Mans for the revved up fanfare that ensued. At most, it’s a reflection on the soaring arc of his career. “My tastes [with TAG Heuer] have evolved. I started with the smallest, and we ended up

“

My tastes [with TAG Heuer] have evolved. I started with the smallest, and we ended up going to the Monaco. It’s how my career went, so it’s perfect ”

Having taken the chequered flag in 63 Grand Prix over the course of 11 seasons to win four consecutive world titles from 2021 to 2024 with Red Bull, Max Verstappen, or the Dutch Lion as he is known to fans, is the current kingpin of the track and he’s still only 27 years old

Top: this season Verstappen has started strong with a second place finish at the debut race of 2025 in Melbourne. Celebrating a decade in the sport after making his debut with Red Bull’s junior team, Scuderia Toro Rosso back in 2015, Verstappen enjoys the trappings of a champion, including personal visits to TAG Heuer’s manufacturer in La Chaux-de-Fonds

going to the Monaco. It’s how my career went, so it’s perfect.”

Right on cue, he holds up the insignia of his racing team, a can of the familiar energy drink and sips. The rumours are, in fact, true, Verstappen enjoys the sweet, syrupy taste of the team that launched him into the spotlight, making his F1 debut with Red Bull’s junior team, Scuderia Toro Rosso back in 2015. Within a year, he was promoted to the big league, and won a Grand Prix in his debut season, becoming the youngest driver to win an F1 Championship race. That same year, TAG Heuer made its return to Formula 1, following a 13-year-long hiatus, as the official timekeeper and partner of the Oracle Red Bull Racing Formula 1 team. A winning pairing? Fortuitous again, some might say.

What’s more surprising, a decade of drinking the same carbonated drink, or a pairing between a driver and a watch brand that continues to make sense?

The beverage clangs to the table on its return, and Verstappen reveals a Monaco Chronograph Automatic in titanium, often seen fastened to his wrist since its launch in 2023. He thumbs the strap with his hands. “You cannot afford any

“ I knew what a [brand like] TAG Heuer meant for sports, and for Formula 1, but starting together, I got more involved in the history behind it. It’s [been] a very nice insight for me ”

mistakes in engineering,” he commands the room with a deep, slightly gravelly voice. Pointing to his wrist he continues, “it all depends on precision. [And] of course that comes down to the manufacturing.”

A prodigy of precision, he begins to recount a visit to TAG Heuer’s manufacturer in the esteemed horological locale, La Chaux-de-Fonds. The Red Bull Racing alternative, Milton Keynes’ MK-7 base, turned Swiss. “I tried [the mechanics] myself, it’s very impressive, but my hand is not stable enough to be very precise,” he laughs. It sounds baffling from a man who operates in a world of hundredths of seconds. “You see how so many little components work together and don’t break at the same time when you’re banging your watch around. So, I had to try, but I was shaking. I have a lot of respect for that, and I guess when they would come to our factory, it’s the same, you know? Just bigger components, same precision.”

Victors don’t often admit their defeats, but Verstappen’s the first to make it known which lane is best for him. That said, it is the very same mindset of a watchmaker: pure adrenaline, obsessive

detail, and a flavour for risk. That approach is echoed between these two mechanical worlds, admits Verstappen. “The motivation is going back to the people you’ve worked with already for a long time, and trying to win again.”

Speed might just be the key difference between these marvels of engineering – and less screaming fans of course, although collector clubs can get loud and proud. Regardless, it’s a long journey to achieve the dream.

The prizeman cites his racing beginnings largely due to his father, Jos Verstappen, a former Formula 1 racing driver who encouraged Max into karting from a young age. Paternal influence led him to timely pursuits beyond the track, too. “I think I [got into watches] because my dad was really into them too,” he shares. “He loves it, and I think as a kid, seeing him with different watches on his wrist, he was so passionate about it, and [by] nature you grow into it. I knew what a [brand like] TAG Heuer meant for sports, and for Formula 1, but starting together, I got more involved in the history behind it. It’s [been] a very nice insight for me.”

At their very core, watches revolve around a beating movement, but what is it that truly moves this World Champion? “A lot of different things, to be honest,” he pauses. “I’ve never really felt like any Grand Prix has been the same, because it depends on what has happened that weekend, the previous weekend and what happens in your private life. It can all have an impact and an influence. That’s what keeps it from being boring. In the years that I’ve done Formula 1, you come to understand your body a lot more, what you need, what you can do and you cannot do. You apply that and you try to make the best of it in between races – combine it all together to make it a success.”

While time waits for no man, Verstappen is keen to chase it. That’s what he reminds himself, cutting through the noise of the hunt. “We have this saying in Dutch, ‘Doe maar gewoon normaal dan ben je gek genoeg.’” He translates: “just act normal, because you’re already crazy enough.”

Photography by CALISTA EDWARDS & TEDDY CLARK

Timex

Giorgio Galli S2Ti, £1,450 timex.co.uk

PERTEX SHIELD AIR

Fast Run Jacket, €390 Osprey Farpoint Trek 75 backpack, £230

Duro LT Running Vest, £65

ON THE TRAIL

Aside from watches, Geneva has one thing in abundance. No, not chocolate, mountains. Just a short hop from the city via a painfully pretty series of train rides are some of the most idyllic peaks and valleys of the Alps. As we head tentatively into spring, what better time to get ready for some mountain wandering? Here’s what you’ll need.

KLÄTTERMUSEN GILLING BACKPACK

You’ll need a proper camera and plenty of snacks to make the most of your hike and that means a solid backpack to carry everything in.

Klättermusen’s 20 litre Gilling backpack is big and solid enough to hold a day’s hiking necessities without overbalancing you on the inclines. Designed to allow plenty of air flow, it’s one for that unpredictable Alpine weather, rain or shine. £180, klattermusen.com

SNOW PEAK NYLON TUSSAH JACKET

A practical windbreaker should always be the starting point and this minimalist number from Japanese outdoor brand Snow Peak has everything you need. Made from a newly developed fabric using recycled nylon, it’s got a cool, textured look that turns nylon into a feature. But honestly, we’re here for those two, oversized and easy access front pockets. uk.snowpeak.com, £200

“

It’s got a cool, textured look that turns nylon into a feature ”

HIKING PATROL SOFT SHELL TROUSER

Soft, stretchy and water repellent, Hiking Patrol’s will be the most comfortable outdoor trousers you’ll have ever worn. With their tailored fit, they’ll suit a casual afternoon in the city as much as halfway up a mountain – or anywhere the weather just won’t behave.

£124, hikingpatrol.com

ROA X OUR LEGACY WORK SHOP ANDREAS BOOT

A collaboration between Italian outdoor brand ROA and Stockholm-based craft house Our Leacy Work Shop, these boots have it all. The Swedish Vachetta leather comes from Tärnsjö Garveri offcuts, while the Vibram Megagrip hybrid soles offer flexibility, comfort and most importantly, traction. They’re essentially ‘what if Berluti made a hiking shoe’.

£540, roa-hiking.com

SEALSKINZ WATER REPELLANT QUARTER ZIP SWEATSHIRT

When your biggest threat isn’t the cold but the rain, water repellence is a must. It helps that this black number from Sealskinz with its contrast zip is cool enough to wear at your next fondue stop. Made for seasonal transitions, it’ll become a regular, even when you’re not on the trail.

sealskinz.com, £120

Science and horology have a long and storied history together. There are hundreds if not thousands of watchmaking advances that are only possible due to engineers and scientists, concepts that might not originally have horology in mind – everything from friction to resonance – but that have nonetheless moulded how modern watches are made.

But that’s all a bit passive for us. That could apply to any industry like cars, smartphones, construction. What about when it’s the other way around?

Timekeeping is intrinsic to many fields of scientific discovery, so what happens when science calls and watchmaking answers? To get there, we need to look at the most famous example of the ‘science watch’, the Rolex Milgauss and its relationship to Geneva’s CERN installation. But first, we need to talk about magnets.

Magnets are cool, right? Get one powerful enough and you can make a frog levitate, if that’s what you’re into. But even weak magnetic forces can have an impact on delicate machinery –

“

Watchmakers had known about the issues with magnetism for decades and indeed Vacheron Constantin spent tens of years developing the first anti-magnetic pocket watch that dropped in 1915

delicate machinery like that in your watch. In the early days of timekeeping, when weather changes at sea were the biggest issue, marine chronometers didn’t need to factor magnetic fields in. But as electricity took over – particularly when it came to advancements like the railroad – timekeeping started to become an issue.

What happens is that, when parts of your watch get magnetised, they begin to stick together. This is most noticeable in the delicate balance spring, which begins to coil and uncoil more erratically and pick up time, but it can happen to other parts too. These days you can just hold it up to an old CRT TV and hit ‘degauss’ (or get yourself a handy degausser often used in high-end audio), but in the early days that wasn’t an option.

Watchmakers had known about the issues with magnetism for decades and indeed Vacheron Constantin spent tens of years developing the first antimagnetic pocket watch that dropped in 1915. For wristwatches though, the premier anti-magnetic timepiece was the 1930 Tissot Antimagnetique. No points for originality in that name.

The Antimagnetique’s movement included a palladium balance spring, balance wheel and lever. Given how much palladium costs, it was expensive and honestly, wouldn’t stand up to even the most basic modern movement. It was a step in the right direction, though. New, antimagnetic materials wouldn’t crop up for decades later in any solid way. Instead, IWC would utilise an ancient scientific device: the Faraday Cage. When watchmakers talk about soft iron inner shells, this is what they mean, and it was a device first used by scientist Michael Faraday in 1836. It basically disperses electromagnetic fields and IWC miniaturised it into a watch, first in their military pilots' pieces, then for civilians into the 1955 Ingenieur.

This version of the Ingenieur, the Ref. 666, was a world away from the Gentare-designed version we got in the 1970s and again much more recently, and this emphasis on scientific development is where the collection gets its name – not the over-engineered, screwed bezel and

Magnetism can cause watch parts to stick together, most notably in the delicate balance spring, so when the scientists at CERN (below) needed watches that could withstand regular exposure they turned to the Rolex Milgauss

Vacheron Constantin developed the first antimagnetic pocket watch in 1915 (above) after spending decades on its development, but it was the 1930 Tissot Antimagnetique that would become the premier anti-magnetic timepiece of the day

PROJECT ALASKA

Omega’s Moonwatch is the stuff of extra-terrestrial legend, a tool that wasn’t designed for space but was adopted by NASA anyway. Project Alaska didn’t have quite the same luck. Omega wanted to create something better, something purpose-built for the void. They developed a thermal shield for the watch to allow it to function on the terrifyingly cold dark side of the moon. It had nothing to do with Alaska, which was simply a codename to confuse any watchmakers intent on corporate espionage. The problem? NASA didn’t actually want it and the Alaska Project ended, outside of some cool limited editions.

“

Silicon took the watch world by storm. Swatch Group and Omega in particular, embraced silicon, creating entire escapements from the advanced material ”

EMBRACING MAGNETS

Not all magnets are bad for timekeeping. In 2012, Christophe Claret revealed the X-TREM-1, which used two spheres operated by magnets to tell the time. Breguet, on the other hand, used magnets for shock resistance. The Classique Chronometrie 7727 used magnets to hold the balance in place, relying on silicon parts to stop them affecting accuracy. Sometimes, when you embrace the problem, you get some seriously cool results.

Taking inspiration from the Faraday Cage, the IWC Ingenieur harnessed electromagnetic fields in the Ref. 666 military pilots' and civilian pieces in 1955, which could stand up to 1,000 gauss, but this was surpassed by the IWC Ingenieur 500,000 A/m, which was resistant to around 6,250 gauss, making it the most anti-magnetic watch of its era

“

Omega’s Master Chronometer standard tests their watches to 15,000 gauss, the same level as a working MRI machine... They can in reality achieve much, much higher, but saying ‘it can survive an MRI machine’ is good marketing

”

love of industrial style. It worked well enough that it could stand up to 1,000 gauss. That brings us to CERN.

CERN, founded in 1956, is the European Organization for Nuclear Research. Along with a host of scientists and underground facilities, it’s home to the 27km tunnel of superconducting magnets that is the Large Hadron Collider, created to smash particles together at mind-boggling speed. It’s the pinnacle of human discovery on Earth and, for the scientists there, a bit of a problem.

The key thing there is ‘superconducting magnets’, and the collider’s not the only part of CERN that uses plenty of magnetic forces. The scientists needed watches that could withstand regular exposure and, for a project of this magnet-ude (sorry), who better than Rolex? Thus, the Milgauss was born, a watch that could withstand… 1,000 gauss. Yes, they were a year late to that particular party, but between the association with Switzerland’s most important scientific installation and the awesome design of the Milgauss itself – easily Rolex’s most underrated watch – it’s no surprise that it became the de facto poster child for advanced anti-magnetism.

The battle continued if a bit subdued over the next 50-odd years. By this point most watch brands were using nonferrous metals for components, so watches were becoming naturally more magnetic resistant. One high point was the IWC Ingenieur 500,000 A/m, which was resistant to around 6,250 gauss. Rather than the usual soft iron inner cage, this version used a niobiumzirconium hairspring, anti-magnetic escape wheel and pallet fork, and rotor bearings made of ruby and was by far the most anti-magnetic watch of its era, something that wouldn’t be beaten until

the turn of the millennium, when 2001 changed watchmaking.

2001 was the year of the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Not only was this insane carousel monster uniquely designed, but it was the first watch to use silicon components. There’s a lot to love about silicon. It’s consistent to produce, it’s resistant to temperature, it creates very little friction and it’s entirely amagnetic. You already know what happened next.

Silicon took the watch world by storm. Swatch Group and Omega in particular, embraced silicon, creating entire escapements from the advanced material. Ulysse Nardin continued with it in everything from movements to marquetry and Zenith even tried to build a cutting-edge new movement entirely from silicon in the Defy LAB – which didn’t take off, for better or worse.

This has gotten to the point where today, anti-magnetic no longer means it can survive a hundred fridge magnets. Omega’s Master Chronometer standard tests their watches to 15,000 gauss, the same level as a working MRI machine, and that’s just what they’re tested to. They can in reality achieve much, much higher, but saying ‘it can survive an MRI machine’ is good marketing.

And honestly, for most of us, that’s all anti-magnetism really is. Sure, fridge magnets can wreck vintage watches, but most everyday modern watches won’t be impacted unless you’re working on a Japanese bullet train. And let’s be honest, in the same way being able to talk up a dive watch’s 1,000m water resistance is just a bit of fun, so too is this. But for those few, those scientists and engineers, that still need a watch in environments that hate accurate timekeeping, there’s still a niche, be that CERN, just outside of Geneva, or elsewhere in the world.

IT’S NOT ALL MAGNETS!

~ While most science-focused watches are all about defeating the sinister force of your novelty fridge magnet, scientists require something else too: maths. Breitling’s 1941 Chronomat was the answer to that pressing need, equipped with a rotating logarithmic scale on the bezel. It allowed you to quickly do unit conversions and make rudimentary calculations, perfect when electronic calculators (which appeared in 1961) were decades out. This would later be repurposed for pilots in the form of the legendary Navitimer, but science got there first.

Consistent to produce, resistant to temperature, and entirely amagnetic, silicon components, like the hairspring (above), transformed watchmaking and were first harnessed by the Ulysse Nardin Freak in 2001

MEN of INFLUENCE:

ANDREA FURLAN

THE CO-FOUNDER OF THE FURLAN MARRI PARTNERSHIP ON EXCITING CURVES, HIS LOVE FOR THE SWISS MOUNTAINS, AND A NEW ANNIVERSARY WATCH

Of all the microbrands to have blown up over the last five years, few have struck a chord quite as soundly as Furlan Marri. From their initial batch of handsome, accessible, vintage-inspired watches to the latest, painfully cool Disco Volante models – via a game-changing perpetual calendar – they’ve proven that it’s all been a lot more than hype.

So, we took the opportunity to talk to the Geneva-based Swiss half of the partnership, Andrea Furlan about cars, podcasts and a long weekend in the Swiss mountains.

What was the last watch you bought?

I bought a little Solvil watch from my friend Joel Laplace; rose gold case, made by hand by Georges Croisier. He was a famous casemaker that produced cases for some of Patek Philippe’s 1518 references, for Vacheron Constantin’s Disco Volante, and many other brands. I like how the lugs are assembled and the proportions of the dial.

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

I collect vintage chairs especially the ones from the 1960s, and old phones like the first iPhone because I love the packaging and the overall design with its round edges. I also started to collect vintage ashtrays from Solvil and Rolex.

“I did all my high school in German to go to Pforzheim Design University with the ambition of becoming an automotive designer”

What, other than a watch, is at the top of your wish list?

A Porsche 993 4S or Turbo would be a dream as I started to design cars when I was very young. I even did all my high school in German to go to Pforzheim Design University with the ambition of becoming an automotive designer. However, the fascination with watches took over, and my career path shifted entirely towards watch design.

A recent find or discovery?

A blown-glass vase from Murano, Italy, made by Flavio Poli. It contains uranium and is therefore luminescent under UV light, which is very cool to look at it in the dark.

What inspires you?

Anything related to industrial design and architecture. I especially search for interesting curves and intriguing details. I recently fell in love with the work of Kengo Get and the minimalism of Tadao Ando, two architects from Japan.

A book, podcast, or album that changed the way you think?

I particularly enjoyed StandOutOnline by Natasha Courtenay-Smith, which provides valuable insights into strategically building a digital brand through storytelling, authenticity, and targeted online presence. Another key inspiration for me is Unreasonable Hospitality by Will Guidara, which emphasises the transformative power of exceeding customer expectations and creating unforgettable experiences through personalised interactions. At our brand, we strive daily to integrate these principles by continuously refining our digital storytelling and cultivating a culture of attentive care, creativity, and connection with our community.

When he’s not inspiring change in the watch industry, Andrea Furlan can be found listening to StandOutOnline by Natasha Courtenay-Smith, admiring his recently purchased Solvil watch, or absorbing the contours of Tadao Ando’s minimalist architecture

Who is a celebrity or person of note or intellectual you admire?

In addition to my parents, simply because they always supported me, accompanied me and took me back to my watch design internships when I was only 15, I love the spirit of people like Jean-Claude Biver and Max Büsser. Mr. Biver, because he opened doors and welcomed me during my first internship in the watchmaking industry at the age of 15. Mr. Büsser, for the precious advice he has given me and the interesting discussions we have when we meet in Geneva.

“Hamad Al Marri and I are always thinking about the balance between accessibility, attention to the community and the details we can add to our watches”

What’s your ideal long weekend?

I can count on my hands the number of ‘long’ or ‘personal’ weekends I enjoy during the year (joking), but if I can tell you one of them, it would certainly be a weekend in the Swiss mountains, relaxing and enjoying a fondue with my family. A walk near Crans-Montana or St-Luc station, then a drive through the mountains, taking in the breathtaking panorama of the Valais. It is where my brain is in ‘half-off’ mode. But never too far from my sketchbook, if one or more ideas come…

What would we always find in your fridge?

A jar of tapenade from Provence, France. This has been my guilty pleasure since I was very young. It reminds me of the time when we used to visit the region every year with my parents. We’d go to piano concerts in a château (because I did over 12 years of classical piano) and during the intermission, there was always tapenade on toast. That was the only reason I went!

What’s a rule or mantra that you live by?

Always strive for perfection, accepting that you will never arrive.

What does the year ahead look like for you?

This will be interesting because we’ve introduced our community design lab, where people can vote and co-create a watch with us. This will enable us to find out more about their interest and the models, features or colours they really want. We’ll also be opening our showroom in Japan, in Tokyo, this year. We’re looking forward to doing this, and to engaging with the Japanese market in an unusual way. This year will be our fourth year in business, and we’ll be presenting our anniversary piece during Watches and Wonders 2025. We want to better structure the three different lines, Mechaquartz, Mechanical and Technical, so that you can see accessible price point watches as well as accessible complications. Hamad Al Marri and I are always thinking about the balance between accessibility, attention to the community and the details we can add to our watches.

Fondue, relaxation, and a walk in the Swiss mountains near Crans-Montana (below) would make an ideal weekend for Andrea Furlan, who counts MB&F founder, Max Büsser (right), as a respected confidant

WORDS: Mark Smyth

THE LEGACY OF PETER MONTEVERDI

THE SWISS AUTOMOTIVE ENTREPRENEUR WHO CREATED A BRAND THAT EXTENDED FAR BEYOND THE EXCLUSIVE LUXURY AND PERFORMANCE CARS THAT WORE HIS NAME

Switzerland is renowned for its impressive private car collections, but unlike its neighbour Germany, it has never really had a reputation for car manufacturing. Names like Rinspeed and Sbarro are more about design and innovation than cars you might expect to see, but there is one name that stands out, Monteverdi.

Peter Monteverdi holds an impressive place in automotive history, not just for his own cars and forays into motorsport, but because it was his design for a four-door Range Rover that was adopted by Land Rover to become the model so revered around the world. That design emanated from Monteverdi’s passion for design, but it is the cars that bear his name that have become highly sought after.

“The Monteverdi name isn’t well known, but the cars are glorious to look at, very much of their era and are exceptionally rare,” says John Mayhead, editor of the Hagerty Price Guide and a judge at the illustrious Salon Privé Concours at Blenheim Palace.

The story of Monteverdi is exceptional. He always held the opinion that impossible did not exist, using his talents as an inventor, designer and constructor, as well as his business skills to create not only his own cars, but a luxury sports car company that proudly carried his name. Initially he was the official importer of Ferrari, as well as selling Bentley, BMW, Lancia and Rolls-Royce models from his dealership in Binningen near Basel. Alongside this he developed single-seater race cars, including his first Formula 1 car, which competed in Germany in 1961. Shortly after though, Monteverdi had a big crash on the Hockenheim circuit that put an end to his personal racing ambitions.

Instead, Monteverdi quickly moved to producing his own road cars. In 1967 at the age of 33, he debuted the Monteverdi High Speed 375 S at the Frankfurt Motor Show, beginning a motoring legacy that would have more of an impact on the automobile that many realise.

“

The Monteverdi name isn’t well known, but the cars are glorious to look at, very much of their era and are exceptionally rare ”

The name might not be familiar, but Peter Monteverdi’s work will be, as it was his design for the four-door Range Rover that was adopted by Land Rover, but his own venture in car manufacturing began with the Monteverdi High Speed 375 S (left) in 1967 at the Frankfurt Motor Show

The High Speed was the start of a series of models, the 375 S Coupe, 375 L, and 375 C Convertible. It even included a super luxury saloon, the 375/4, complete with a bar and TV

You can have any colour you want, as long as it’s brown. The High Speed models (above) heralded the arrival of Monteverdi on the road in the 1970s, and they were followed by the Tiara (left) in 1982 and the Hai 650 F1 GT supercar (below) a decade later, which borrowed a Ford-Cosworth F1 engine from Monteverdi’s short lived Formula 1 team. He even designed a watch in 1978 commemorate Automobile Monteverdi’s 50th anniversary, available with either a 24-carat gold of black onyx case

The High Speed was the start of a series of models, the 375 S coupe, 375 L, and 375 C convertible. It even included a long-wheelbase super luxury saloon, the 375/4, complete with a bar and TV. Each featured a 7.2 litre Chrysler V8 engine that was capable of taking the 375 S to 167mph. Coachbuilder, Pietro Frua in Turin initially manufactured the bodywork, but as production increased, Monteverdi needed a larger operation to create the multiple body styles and turned instead to another Italian coachbuilder, Fissore.

The cars entered a very competitive market, one where names like Aston Martin, Bristol, De Tomaso, and Jensen were key rivals. The High Speed models were more expensive too, with the High Speed S costing CHF3,000 (approx. £2,500) more than an Aston Martin DB6 when it was launched. Even so, Monteverdi went on to sell 200 derivatives up until 1975, testament to the luxury, performance, and most notably, exclusivity of the brand.

While the High Speed models heralded the arrival of Monteverdi on

“

Always the entrepreneur and innovator, Monteverdi turned his attention to a genre that is commonplace today, but not so much in the 1970s ”

the road car scene, it was the car that debuted at the 1970 Geneva Motor Show that made everyone sit up and take notice. That car was the Hai 450 SS (hai meaning shark in German), a mid-engined sports car that claimed to provide GT-class comfort with Ferrari and Lamborghinirivalling performance, with a 0-62mph time of just 4.8 seconds. Sadly, only two prototypes were ever produced, its predicted high price dampening the initial excitement of its reveal.

Monteverdi did create two continuation models in the 1990s, both of which are in the Swiss Museum of Transport, ensuring the prototypes command a significant price for collectors.

Always the entrepreneur and innovator, Monteverdi turned his attention to a genre that is commonplace today, but not so much in the 1970s, the SUV. The oil crisis forced him to look at a different type of customer and he found it in luxury 4x4 enthusiasts, particularly in the Middle East. Taking the Harvester Scout as the foundation, the creation of the Monteverdi Safari and later Sahara models was a great success with 2,700 produced.

In 1979, Monteverdi took the off-road genre further, creating a series of Design Military vehicles, but 1980 was the year that was to catapult Peter Monteverdi into ultimate SUV history. One of the reasons the Safari had proved so popular is because unlike the Range Rover, it was available with four doors, an automatic gearbox and switchable two and four-wheel drive. So Monteverdi turned his attention to the Range Rover itself, and in 1980 debuted the four-door Monteverdi Range Rover. 160 were produced before he handed the design to Land Rover and then in 1981 the British marque began producing its own four-door Range Rovers.

Other Monteverdi models were unveiled including the Berlinetta coupe in 1972, the Palm Beach convertible in 1975 and numerous concepts and design studies, while 35 examples of the Sierra saloon, convertible and estate were produced between 1977 and 1980. Then the final model to bear the Monteverdi

name was launched in the early 1980s, the Tiara. This time, the company used a Mercedes-Benz 500 SEL as the basis of the new model, but only three were made and production of a Monteverdi car came to an end in 1983.

Like great theatre, there was to be an encore, although not for the road cars. In 1990 Peter Monteverdi returned to his love of motorsport when he bought the Onyx Formula 1 team and rebranded it the Monteverdi Onyx Formula One team. It wasn’t a success, although Swiss driver Gregor Foitek did secure seventh place in the 1990 Monaco Grand Prix. Unfortunately, the costs associated with competing in the pinnacle of motorsport meant the team didn’t return to the grid the following season.

This still wasn’t the end of the story, Monteverdi planned something special as his final bow. Taking the F1 car, in 1992 he created the Hai 650 F1 GT. Beyond its stunning design, the bodyshell was made entirely of carbon fibre which contributed to it having a weight of just 750kg. With a FordCosworth F1 engine developing 650hp, it was a true supercar in both looks and performance, but only one completed car was ever produced.

Peter Monteverdi died in 1998 at the age of 64, but he left behind a lasting legacy that will probably never be repeated as far as Swiss automotive production is concerned. His passion for design saw him create numerous design studies based on Ford, Porsche and Opel models. He also designed a yacht in 1975 and then in 1978 he celebrated Automobile Monteverdi’s 50th anniversary by creating a watch, available with either a 24-carat gold or black onyx case.

Monteverdi’s influence on the history of the SUV and the Range Rover in particular, is unquestionable. Like the great Enzo Ferrari, the cars of Monteverdi tell the incredible story of a man whose passion for excellence in design, innovation, craftsmanship and performance deserve their place in the annals of motoring greatness.

Foreshadowing the SUV revolution on British roads, Monteverdi produced the Safari (above) and later Sahara models, and later enshrined his 4x4 legacy with the creation of the 1980 four-door Monteverdi Range Rover, before handing the design to Land Rover. Only 160 of the Monteverdi Range Rovers were produced, making them highly collectible, as is the Hai 450 SS (left)

• Spring is really springing and summer is on the horizon, which means one thing: a lot of rain. But also, our five minutes of annually allotted sunshine. Next time the sun emerges from behind the clouds don’t be caught lacking, check out this selection of cool al fresco restaurants and bars in London that allow you to enjoy gorgeous food and drink in gorgeous outdoor settings.

R E S TAU R A N T S

Al fresco London dining

BACCHANALIA

1-3 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1K 3NA

Dining at Bacchanalia is an extravagant and hedonistic experience worth trying. Based on the historic traditions of Greek and Roman feasts, it offers a rich Mediterranean menu with seafood ragu, grilled meats, and of course, plenty of wine. As for the al fresco part, it’s by no means the main attraction but there is some incredibly plush, red seating on the terrace surrounded by Greek style plant pots for when the weak British sun does its best impression of the Med. Book now at bacchanalia.co.uk

BROOKLANDS

BY CLAUDE BOSI

1 Grosvenor Place, Belgravia, SW1X 7HJ

Brooklands by Claude Bosi is a rooftop restaurant with a terrace rocking two Michelin stars that’s nestled atop The Peninsula Hotel, overlooking Hyde Park. It’s named after an iconic motor racing track in Surrey, building on the elegance and drama of the sport. The menu is an ode to the British Isles with Dorset snails, Lake District lamb, and Cornish cod. Claude Bosi has been a chef at the top of the London fine dining scene for almost two decades now, after opening his first project in the city back in 2007.

Book now at peninsula.com

Book now at petershamnurseries.com “ They’ve been awarded the Green Michelin Star for their commitment to sustainability and seasonal British ingredients

PETERSHAM NURSERIES RESTAURANT

Church Lane, Off Petersham Road, Richmond, TW10 7AB

While it’s not central London, Petersham Nurseries Restaurant in Richmond is worth a visit for the sheer beauty of its natural botanical surroundings. They’ve been awarded the Green Michelin Star for their commitment to sustainability and a menu that embraces seasonal British ingredients. They even operate their own farm called Haye Farm Devon to ensure high quality and good ethics. On the menu you’ll find dishes such as slow-cooked organic beef cheek, roast loin of Haye Farm pork, and free-range guinea fowl supreme.

THE BRUSH 84-86 Great Eastern Street, Hoxton, EC2A 3JL

The Brush styles itself as a grand cafè in east London, with all-day dining including a particular focus on that very London business of brunch. The terrace is open all year round, come rain or shine, giving you the opportunity to enjoy the full range of their offerings. The weekend brunch menu includes classics such as eggs benedict, as well as south coast mussels, and braised short ribs. Or take a look at their on-site patisserie for something sweeter.

Book at thebrushhoxton.co.uk

CIRCOLO POPOLARE

40-41 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia, W1T 1HX

Circolo Popolare’s indoor dining area has enough character and plants around that you may well think you’re actually seated on the terrace. The menu is as Italian as they come with homemade spaghetti and pasta, as well as a selection of pizzas with cheesy pun names. But hey, when the sun is shining and life is good on a restaurant terrace, I think we can overlook a few puns and embrace the fun.

Book at circolopopolare.com

SEABIRD

The Rooftop, 40 Blackfriars Road, Southwark, SE1 8NY

Seabird describe their menu as sea-to-table with a selection of seafood and fish inspired by the Iberian peninsula. Grilled octopus, whole lobster, paella, and (a

bit closer to home) Cornish mussels. Their sky terrace features closable roofs to stave off the worst of the weather, offering flexibility and protection in the case of sudden spring showers. You should also take advantage of the very extensive wine list. Book now at seabirdlondon.com

“ Their sky terrace features closable roofs to stave off the worst of the weather

“ It’s a great place to catch up with friends before heading to dinner. Or after dinner. Or both.

THE NEST

14-15 Langham Place, Marylebone, W1B 2QS

The Nest is an Instagrammer’s delight with its wraparound rooftop terrace with plenty of nice lounging spots and a metric tonne of cushions. It’s more of an al fresco bar and cocktails venue than dining, but it’s a great place to catch up with friends before heading to dinner. Or after dinner. Or both. The drinks menu features a fresh mix of evergreen classics, as well as a characterful selection of signature cocktails and locally sourced beer. Learn more at treehousehotels.com

ANDERSEN GENÈVE & THE WORLD TIME COMPLICATION

On the 45th anniversary of the original Communication, the influential world timer remains a relevant and irresistible piece of horological history

Words: Tim Vaux

VINTAGE HERO:

Watchmaking and Geneva, you simply cannot have one without the other. As a city, it carries its horological legacy on its sleeve. Turn the cobblestone corners of the Old Town and Urwerk’s HQ is nestled on the Place du Bourg-de-Four, just down the road from AkriviA. Look up when meandering around Plainpalais, and you’ll stumble upon the world-famous Patek Philippe Museum. Leave the Mandarin Oriental, and you’ll be a stone’s throw away from Andersen Genève’s home. This city bleeds watchmaking, and for Svend Andersen, it’s where he founded his eponymous manufacture in 1980. While many know the brand’s watches today for their mastery of complications paired with traditionally coded, yet unique executions born out of a labour of love, when Svend’s independent journey began, international collectors wanted him to make one watch: a world timer.

40 years ago, the concept of an ‘independent watchmaker’ of any notable significance was in its infancy, practically unheard of. As an industry, watchmaking was still actively licking its wounds caused by the disruptive arrival of battery-powered watches. At scale, the luxury Swiss watch industry was transforming, shifting from being the zeitgeist to flirting with being on the brink of relevance. That was until the concept of luxury was modernised with steel watches and bold new sporty references. This evolution appealed to a new generation, resulting in the maturing of watch collecting in the 1990s. At the even higher, more nuanced end of the spectrum, talented watchmakers behind many legacy brands’ successes took their talent under a new roof: one with their name above the door. Think Daniel Roth, F.P. Journe, Franck Muller, and Svend Andersen.

Called the Communication, Svend’s first watch was sold in 1989 by subscription to existing Italian and German clients of Svend’s pocket watch case-making operation. With only 24 examples, the watch is an 18k yellow gold world timer and a tribute to Louis Cottier, the father of the world timer, a complication Svend spent a lot of time

working on while at Patek Philippe. Upon selling all 24 models, to meet the number of requests, Andersen Genève produced approximately 50 to 100 more examples of the Communication but now with teardrop lugs, paying homage to the Patek 1415 – yet another watch Svend was familiar with during his Patek tenure. Both Communication edition cases are beautifully crafted, and there’s a very good reason for that: they were produced by legendary case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann, with Andersen being Hagmann’s first-ever client.

This initiated a run of more world timers, with 500 examples of a piece created in 1992 to celebrate the anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s voyage. To underscore how talented Svend is, the Mundus World Time of 1994 achieved the world record as the thinnest world time watch ever produced thanks to the world time module he developed – a record it still holds today at 4.2mm.

Svend’s story could fill this issue with a grand legacy in watchmaking over the decades. Having been born in Denmark in 1942, working at Patek for nearly 10 years, and going on to launch not only one of the first independent watchmakers but still one of the most desirable, his life has been dedicated to this craft. He first made headlines in 1969 at the age of 27 debuting a side project called The Bottle Clock. This saw him place a working clock within a bottle despite the opening only being 18mm in width. An achievement that blew minds, it took five months to complete and earned him the moniker of Watchmaker of the Impossible, spotlighting his watchmaking

Produced as a tribute to Louis Cottier, only 24 examples of Svend’s first watch, the 18k yellow gold Communication world timer were originally produced in 1989 for clients of his pocket watch case-making operation, before Andersen Genève produced 50 to 100 more examples, but this time with teardrop lugs

While only 1,300 Andersen watches have ever been made, the Christoper Columbus (pictured) is the more common Anderson watch, which has earned admirers for its Chinese lacquered dial displaying the Atlantic Ocean with the route of Columbus’ first voyage in 1492

whimsicality. Between leaving Patek, making pocket watch cases, and beginning his own manufacture, in 1985 Svend also found time to establish a community for independent watchmakers. The AHCI focuses on preserving tradition where it deems those working independently as the ‘guardians of these traditions’ in the face of the growing big brands and conglomerates. Over the years, membership has been extended to the likes of George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour, Raúl Pagès, Vianney Halter, Felix Baumgartner, and Andreas Strehler.

Andersen Genève’s output continues to be very limited and bespoke – for context, only 1,300 Andersen watches have ever been made. While examples of the earliest Communication

Andersen Genève today bridges that gap between traditionality and proprietary styling that makes them simply irresistible

models have been offered for sale, with at most 124 ever being produced, the Christopher Columbus is more regularly seen. Having first-hand experience in repairing and assembling the last of the Louis Cottier modules Patek had in stock, the influences are apparent from the case, dial proportions, hands, and module architecture. 35mm in yellow gold, pink gold, or platinum, the watch carries a Chinese lacquered dial displaying the Atlantic Ocean with the route of Columbus’ first voyage in 1492. The calibre powering these pieces is the automatic Piguet 951, but it’s fitted with the complete bespoke world time module developed by Svend. This module measures just 0.9mm thick; including the dial.

Andersen Genève today bridges that gap between traditionality and proprietary styling that makes them simply irresistible. Which is why models like the Christopher Columbus stand out further with extremely classic styling. Compared to the 38mm cases they produce today, the mid-sized Christopher Columbus feels charmingly unassuming. And in 2025, on the 45th anniversary of the original Communication, it’s fair to say these early world timers are just as relevant and appealing today.

•

During their more than 150 year existence, IWC has had plenty of designers both for their cases and movements. Most of them, let’s be honest, have gone pretty much forgotten except among sects of serious military watch collectors. But there are two that remain important not just to IWC but watchmaking in general. In terms of design, it’s Gerald Genta; in terms of chronometry, it’s Kurt Klaus.

Genta doesn’t need much of an introduction. The 1976 revamp of the Ingenieur was one of a long list of iconic pieces he created. Kurt Klaus, simply because movements are less sexy, isn’t known quite as well but should be as the maker of the crown-operated Perpetual Calendar. It was an invention he put first into IWC’s Da Vinci in 1985. Now, IWC is bringing those two Schaffhausen watchmaking milestones into one watch: the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41.

Now, while IWC are saying this is the first time these two elements – the Ingenieur case and the perpetual calendar – have come together, they do so with one painful caveat: in stainless steel. There was indeed an older Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar as recently as 2019, but in titanium. Sure, the Ingenieurs of the 2010s looks completely different, but even before then there were precious metal perpetual calendars in the collection.

Still, without the hyperbole, steel does actually make a big difference. Just look at last issue’s cover star and the difference between swapping from precious to practical made for Vacheron Constantin’s 222. And like the 222, they’ve embraced that classic colourway of steel and blue.

Avoiding the pitfalls (and comparisons) that come with tapisserie, instead IWC have opted for a kind of staggered grid, with vertical lines in sets of four creating squares across the horizontal. On paper it doesn’t sound like much, but I genuinely love it. It’s familiar but distinctive, a usually impossible line to tread. It doesn’t feel too busy but has enough going on to be interesting after the first few glances and, perhaps most importantly, it looks absolutely killer in shimmering blue metal.

The large, lumed indexes would take over an automatic, but here the perpetual calendar subdials actually cut them off so that only those at 11 to one remain whole. This leaves the subdials enough room to show the various calendar entries, with days at nine o’clock, date at three o’clock and month/moon phase at six o’clock. It’s a layout we’re more used to seeing with chronographs, meaning that IWC have seemingly disguised the high complication as something more mundane and, let’s be honest, more thematically suited to the steel case of sports watch.

That case is an absolute beauty. The flat planes are all brushed for that industrial look, but the edges are polished, outlining the entire Ingenieur and emphasising its distinctive shape. At this price point, you’d hope for details like that but it’s still nice to see, right down to the polished central links of the bracelet. I do think they could have done something more inventive with that bracelet given its competition, but it’s true to the original and does the job.

Despite the innate size of a high complication movement, you don’t notice it on the wrist. The 41mm case is about as small as you could have for a perpetual calendar and expect

The flat planes are all brushed for that industrial look, but the edges are polished, outlining the entire Ingenieur and emphasising its distinctive shape

to read the thing. And while it isn’t exactly ultra-thin at 13.4mm, it’s not nearly as chunky as the many indicators and a moon phase accurate for 577.7 years might lead you to assume. That all said, you can still quite easily tell the difference on the wrist compared to the automatic version.

The IWC 82600 is a solid calibre even outside of the calendar. With its 4hz frequency and 60-hour power reserve it’ll keep accurately ticking over a weekend, even if you don’t wear it at all. If you do, the Pellaton winding system will have it powered up in no time. Sure, it’s not some insane calendar that will only go out of sync when the sun dies, but it’s fantastic, nonetheless and is, of course, superbly finished through the exhibition caseback.

Given a crown-operable perpetual calendar was Kurt Klaus’ baby, it’s worth a brief mention. All the indicators are synced together and can’t go out, so all you need to do is turn the crown to move everything together at once. If you don’t wear it for a few months that means it’s going to take some turning to get back to now, but it’s also incredibly satisfying to watch everything more in tandem. He might not be as well-known as Genta, but Klaus was a mad genius.

There’s a lot to love here. The Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41mm needed to nail the brand’s first highly complicated model in the new collection and in my opinion they did so. It’s streamlined, solid and sexy. The dial elevates it aesthetically above the rest of the collection and the necessary alterations to case size work well.

IWC shouldn’t be finding some granular ‘first’ to be trying to get attention here. The Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41mm doesn’t need the help. £32,000, iwc.com

THE SPECS

• 41.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Precidrive F06.412 quartz movement

• £440, limited to 1,995 pieces, certina.co.uk

CERTINA CASCADEUR

An aesthetic revamp tones down the weirdness of Certina’s 90s classic Cascadeur into something actually wearable

1995 was a rare high point for music in the decade. Radiohead’s The Bends, 2Pac’s MeAgainsttheWorld, Oasis’ What’stheStory,Morning Glory, there were some absolute classics. I’m a personal fan of Reel Big Fish’s EverythingSucks, but that’s probably just me. At the same time, watchmaking was going through a renaissance under the auspices of Swatch Group (in good part thanks to J.C. Biver). After two decades of quartz attrition, brands were on more stable footing than they had been for years and inclined to try bold new things.

While the higher end was preoccupied with getting back the gravitas of haute horology, the lower tiers could actually try some fun stuff, and Certina set themselves up to capitalise with the 1995 Cascadeur. If you were around at the time, you’ll have seen the watch. It was advertised everywhere and, perhaps more than that, it looked completely insane, a big, sporty watch with a grille over the front.

Indeed, Certina had designed the Cascadeur to be as visually arresting as possible. At the time the brand was sponsoring the Motorcycle World Championship among other things and was desperate for that iconoclastic, disruptive vibe that drew in ‘cool’ 90s kids. In short, it was the watch equivalent of Sonic the Hedgehog, and used the speed of motor racing to inform their shiny new watch.

Over the course of just under a decade, the Cascadeur went through a few iterations, adding digital displays, weirder bezel options and ever sportier design choices, all framed by the horizontal bars of that signature grille. It lasted until 2011 when the Cascadeur was finally relegated to the archives. But, as watchmakers delve into decades worryingly close to my birth for back catalogue deep dives, it’s time for the Cascadeur to resurface.

Let’s not beat around the bush, the new Cascadeur is weird, but not quite as out-there as the original 1995 version. For one, the ‘power bars’ have been moved vertical rather than horizontal. It feels less like you’re squinting between the slats of a blind which always unnerved me about the original. More than that though, Certina has turned those bars into even more of a feature.

In the original, the wide screen-style bars were simply plonked across the top and bottom; here they’re mirrored in the bezel, which is black between them and silver either side. The result looks like a slice of a different watch has been inserted into the middle, almost but not quite perfectly in line with the strap. Yes, my OCD wished they lined up, but that would make those bars too prominent.

In fact, Certina has done a good job of toning down the original design into something you might actually want to wear today. The black dial is streamlined with minimal hour markers and a six o’clock date. It means you don’t feel like you’re missing any information. The visible screws on the black portion of the bezel add a bit of sporty, 70s flavour and the black rubber strap is much less design heavy than the original’s bracelet. The result is a watch that has plenty of personality on the wrist and will certainly get some looks, but won’t be particularly divisive.

Speaking of on the wrist, at 41.5mm across it’s not shy and retiring but nor should it be. The lugs are relatively short, so it sits well on smaller wrists and the 12.6mm thickness is solid for an everyday watch. The thing is, rather than being a weird, unique watch, it feels more like you’ve taken a baseline Certina model and added roll bars.

The original Cascadeur was mental, a strange, deliberately flamboyant design that was pure 90s edginess. The modern version takes the core element of that – the bars – and sanitises it. Sure, it’s a lot less divisive, but for everyone that doesn’t mind it, there’s someone that no longer loves it like they used to. Given Certina already have a fantastic line-up of everyday wearers like the forever underrated DS Action, a more outlandish Cascadeur would have been cool.

In keeping with its sporty aspirations, the Cascadeur has a Precidrive quartz movement, with a variance of +/-10 seconds a year. Given who’s making it, it’s no surprise that it also has 200m water resistance with Certina’s lauded Double Security system. You can smack it about at whatever the modern equivalent of your local skate park is and it’ll just keep going, with even the crystal protected by those distinctive bars.

This all leaves me in an odd place. I do not like the original Cascadeur enough to buy one, and vintage models are cheap. And I did genuinely enjoy wearing this little nostalgia trip, particularly as it’s no longer explicitly tied to motorsports with a tachymeter. But I wish Certina had taken it a little further. Honestly, keep the main body of the watch as is, bring in the 90s bracelet with its motorcycle chain bracelet and I’d be happy. Well, happier. That Certina has approached the Cascadeur at all makes me incredibly excited to see what else they’re up to.

£440, limited to 1,995 pieces, certina.co.uk

THE SPECS

• 39mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• R862 calibre manual-wind movement with 80-hour power reserve

• £2,650, limited to 1962 pieces, rado.com

Strange as it seems now that they’ve been shuttered by Rolex, one of my favourite watches last year was the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage WorldTimer, a watch with plenty of low-key glamour and jet-setting chic. Well, it turns out I’m a sucker for clean, elegant world timers as the Carl F. Bucherer might just have been displaced by none other than Rado. Sure, I was expecting more Captain Cooks this year. What I wasn’t expecting was to fall in love with the collection all over again with the downright gorgeous new Rado Over-Pole.

You might remember back in the misty days of 2022. We were walking out bleary eyed into the post Covid light, our whole world opening up, the possibilities endless. Those possibilities also included a diminutive little edition of the Captain Cook dubbed the Over-Pole. It was a 1960s throwback to a rare, world time version of the seminal dive watch, replacing the unidirectional bezel with 24 timezones.

The thing is, the 2022 Over-Pole was also vintage in size. In this instance that means 37mm across. In genuine vintage terms, that’s not too small at all, but in modern watches that’s tiny and, I’d argue, a touch too small to elegantly fit 24 timezones around. Unfortunately, it wasn’t a problem I could mull over too much as the limited edition faded away.

Now, the Over-Pole is back in action and in a big way. Well, bigger at least. The new version upsizes to a much more wearable, readable and generally better 39mm, retaining some of those classically small dimensions but in a way that won’t have you squinting at what might be an upside-down New York. And, rather than the dark, greyand-black colours of the previous edition, Rado has embraced the glamour of the golden age of air travel.

Not only is the case gold, but so too are the retro beads of rice bracelet. Full gold takes a fair bit of swagger to pull off, but in this instance without the bank account to match as it’s all PVD over stainless steel. Some watchmakers find gold plating to be a dirty concept, but I’m here for it. It means you have the same aesthetic but at an actually affordable price tag. Sure, it means there’s less intrinsic value, but if you’re looking at Rado rather than Rolex, that’s probably not a big consideration.

The gold continues onto the dial with the funky, multifaceted indexes set against a classic silver dial. Those indexes are a lot of fun, especially the three cardinal points (three o’clock being replaced with a date). They add some punch to the dial, some personality like a statement chair in an otherwise minimal apartment.

Normally I don’t care for date windows, but a worldtimer’s one of the few instances where it makes a lot of sense. I’d have rather had it at six o’clock for symmetry’s sake, but there’s only so much Rado can do with third-party movements, even if they are part of the same company. And I do like the red lettering rather than black, it makes it really pop. It’s just a same it’s a slightly different shade to the signature proof-of-life anchor that makes up their logo.

This being Rado, ceramic is an inevitability and here it’s on the bezel, the single most sensible place for ceramic to be, in pure black. The cities are engraved into the ceramic and coloured gold which isn’t the most readable combination but is definitely the most glamorous. It’s also a nice

It makes the watch feel more private jet than premium economy, so if you want to turn down the ostentation, the optional black leather strap’s a perfectly sane alternative

counterpoint to the silver dial and while I’m all for pure monochrome, the quirky indexes, date et al incline me more towards this kind of mix.

On the wrist, it’s incredibly comfortable. 39mm is the goldilocks zone already and 10.9mm is relatively svelte, but the way the beads of rice bracelet drapes over the wrist makes me wonder why it ever fell out of fashion. It also makes the watch feel more private jet than premium economy, so if you want to turn down the ostentation, the optional black leather strap’s a perfectly sane alternative. Way less fun, but sane.

Despite the change in size, the movement remains the same, the R862 which is based on the 2824-2, a manual-wind take on the maker’s flagship 2824 with a slowed-down frequency to up the power reserve. That power reserve is a substantial 80-hours, making it weekend proof, even if you’re living the dream of a four-day work week. It’s good, solid fun and finished with lashings of Cotes de Geneve and blued screws.

The only downside I can see to the Captain Cook OverPole is that it’s still a limited edition of 1,962 pieces, in reference to the archival original. Sure, that’s a big number compared to most limited editions (ours are only 100 or less), but Rado’s not a small brand and they won’t be around forever. That’s a shame because the Over-Pole has the firstclass air hostess legs to become a collection mainstay –especially at the punchy price of £2,650. £2,650, limited to 1962 pieces, rado.com

THE SPECS:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Miyota 9039 / ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 42 / 38-hour power reserve

• £514 / £703, ferrowatches.com

Ferro & Co

Time Master

TV-shaped cases are back in full force. Perhaps that’s more hopeful than it is true, but there’s definitely been a resurgence in that funky 1970s flavour and Ferro’s Time Master is one of the coolest. The clean, cushion-adjacent 39mm silhouette is paired with a dial straight out of a retro bedside clock with rings in various colours. The orange pops the most, but the silver is potentially the most wearable. Paired with a Japanese or Swiss movement (your choice) visible through the orange-tinted caseback, there’s a lot to love here, rose-tinted or not. ferrowatches.com

Detrash

Cali Melting Ice Cap Blue

While you might assume Detrash picked this new light blue dial for their fun Cali beater simply because it’s perfect for summer, you’d be wrong. There’s a good reason it’s called ‘Melting Ice Cap Blue’ and that’s to draw attention to climate change. As one of the most sustainable watch brands around, it only makes sense that they’d focus on a cause near and dear to them, and it helps that the result is a really handsome watch, slightly dark surf-ready globe and all. Do good and look good doing it.

detrash.com

THE SPECS:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Seiko NH35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve

• £375, detrash.com

Solstice

Revival Automatic

Tapping into the ‘70s trend for integrated bracelet sports watches, the Revival is obviously in the same aesthetic vein as the Tissot PRX with it’s angular planes, but Solstice are doing it their own way. For one, the contrast between polished edges and brushed planes makes for a watch that catches the light wonderfully; for another, that dial. It’s like a 3D render of tappisserie, similar to Louis Erard’s stunning marquetry numbers and in shimmering green is an absolute stunner. solsticewatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £624, solsticewatches.com

RGM

801/40-CE

Where most microbrands opt for eye-catching modern looks, RGM has gone the opposite way with their classical 801. The Roman numerals, the crisp white dial, even the Breguet handset all pay tribute to watches past, particularly with an American railroad flavour. That includes a double-sunk grand feu enamel dial straight out of a vintage pocket watch. This particular version has been downsized to 40.3mm to suit more wrists. The finishing across the board is up there with any of the heritage houses too, so don’t be expecting the 801/40-CE to come cheaply, even if it is worth every penny. rgmwatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 40.3mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• RGM calibre 801 manual-wind movement with 44-hour power reserve

• $14,900 (approx. £11,800), rgmwatches.com

Scurfa

Top Side Crew

We’re used to seeing Scurfa watches designed for extreme depths; founder Paul Scurfield is a professional saturation diver, after all. But their latest line is designed more for the team that stays above the water – the Top Side Crew. So, the handsome new collection drops the diving bezel and gives the dial a colourful makeover, in this case with a green, hexagonal pattern, and contrasting white indexes. It’s still robust and its 200m water resistance will more than stand up to everyday elements, it’s just a little more ‘everyday’ than bottom of the ocean. scurfawatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Ronda 7155M quartz movement

• £230, scurfawatches.com

BŌKEN

Breacher Black Ops GMT

We always talk about British watches in terms of design rather than construction and for good reason, as very few British brands do much of the graft at home. And yet with the Breacher, BŌKEN are bringing it back. The Breacher is the brand’s first watch designed and assembled in the UK, in collaboration with Horologium, the watchmakers that work with the good and great of the British watch world. As for the watch, it’s a solid GADA beast, especially in the stealthy Black Ops version equipped with a GMT function. Solid lume numerals and indexes with 200m water resistance make it a proper advancement on BŌKEN’s previous, already formidable Odyssey. In fact, there’s a lot to love; being built in Britain is just the blacked-out icing on the cake.

boken.co.uk

THE SPECS:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Sellita SW330 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £1,999, boken.co.uk

Crafter Blue

Mechanic Ocean Mark II

A lot of divers, particularly at this level, opt for performance over comfort. That makes sense if you’re actually going to strap it over a diving suit, but who actually does that? Crafter Blue’s refined Mechanic Ocean Mark II on the other hand has a slim profile, a four o’clock crown and a svelte 41mm diameter, adding up to a watch that sits very nicely on the wrist. Its vintage, monochromatic aesthetic looks the part too – though if you did want to wear it on a dive, its 300m water resistance is more than up to the task. You just might not want to take it off when you surface.

crafterblue.com

THE SPECS:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Miyota 9015 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• $599 (approx. £475), crafterblue.com

EDITED BY Sam Kessler

A NEW DIGITAL ERA FOR AN ACCESSIBLE TOOL WATCH BRAND, THE COLLECTOR-CENTRIC SHOP AT THE HEART OF THE INDEPENDENT GLASGOW WATCH SCENE, AND THE BOLD TRADITIONALISM OF A FUTURIST’S DREAM

RZE

The accessible tool watch brand goes digital with the arcticdefying UTD-8000

If you’ve been reading Oracle Time long enough, by now you’ll have come across RZE, makers of ultra-sleek and equally affordable titanium field watches. Seriously, if you’re after a lightweight beater for a fraction of what its specs sheet suggests, look no further. But it has to be said that, when you think of tool watches – and RZE by extension – you probably don’t imagine a digital display. That’s precisely what makes the new UTD-8000 stand out.

While a digital watch might be a new tangent for RZE, it’s perhaps not as out-of-the-blue as it might seem. After all, if you were to imagine a shockproof, adventure-ready, nighinvulnerable timekeeper, what would it be? Probably something along the lines of a Casio G-SHOCK.

“Each of our team members looked back at our personal watch histories,” explains RZE’s Head of Global Marketing, Huiy Tang, “and we all have fond memories of the Timex Ironman 8-Lap and iconic G-SHOCK references. In the design and development of the UTD-8000, we drew inspiration from a range of references while maintaining RZE’s design language, to deliver a familiar user experience in an unfamiliar case material.”

That case material is, of course, titanium. You can take the mechanical out of an RZE watch but not that, never the material. It’s the Grade 2 titanium in fact that makes the UTD-8000 stand out from the crowd as there simply aren’t that many digital watches around using the aerospace-level metal. You can see why; most are either cheap or designed to stop a tank shell with hardcore composites. Titanium on the other hand (or wrist) feels better than any bulletproof plastic ever will, while maintaining strength and lightness, particularly with RZE’s own UltraHex coating.

But why digital? It can’t simply be collectors’ collective nostalgia. Well, the reason for G-SHOCK’s popularity is, partly, the intense design, but also the shock and vibration resistance. It’s kind of in the name. And there’s a reason that only works with digital modules, as mechanical movements are just too delicate to deal with big, repeated impacts. A digital watch on the other hand can take some serious punishment and at incredibly low temperatures that would impact the oils of a mechanical calibre.

“As titanium digital watch options are limited, since the UTD8000’s inception, we were determined to provide the quality components and craftsmanship that enthusiasts enjoy in our mechanical offerings, with the legibility, water, dust, corrosion, scratches, shock, and vibration resistance that only a digital module can provide.”

The UTD-8000 is very much part of a new era for RZE. But don’t worry if you already have one or two of their watches – they’re affordable enough to justify a few colours

It’s not all talk. The UTD-8000 was designed from the ground-up to tackle harsh environments and was tested to within an inch of its life in the Canadian north. It was fully exposed to -30 degrees Celsius for over 24 hours, while zip-tied to the front of a vehicle travelling at 100km/h. That’s pretty hardcore. The fact that, after being put through its expedition-ready, cold weather paces, it still comes with a lifetime movement guarantee, is certainly a statement. Hell, there’s every chance the UTD-8000 will last a lot longer on adventure than you.

That said, most of us won’t be trekking into the Yukon any time soon and even outside of the Territories there’s a lot to love. The 41mm case (42mm at the bezel) is sporty and industrial with its visible screws and multi-layered construction. It’s aesthetically a lot more wearable than your average G-SHOCK – at least when not paired with slick, Japanese streetwear labels – but still has the kind of visual impact that says it’s ready to take on all challengers.

The ‘dial’, here meaning digital display, is highly legible, doubly so in the black version with white numerals, and operable via the quartet of pushers around the case. Those pushers, in fact, give it a slight visual similarity to the Seiko 1/100th Second Solar Speedtimer, which is no bad thing. It makes sense then that the UTD-8000 also includes a 1/100th second stopwatch function, along with 12/24-hour formats, a multi-function alarm, an hourly chime and a calendar automatically accurate to 2099.

So, the UTD-8000 is very much part of a new era for RZE. But don’t worry if you already have one or two of their watches – they’re affordable enough to justify a few colours, after all. And, while the movement has changed dramatically, everything else is very much in line with other watches in the brand’s back catalogue.

“Versatility is important to our brand and our customers,” says Hiuy Tang. “Sharing the same 20mm lug width as our Resolute, Endeavour, and Valour 38, the UTD-8000 is compatible with your other straps and RZE bracelet. Adventurers will also find that despite accessible pricing of the UTD-8000, they will find the same quality components and wearer experience with the digital as in a mechanical offering.”

To bring it all back to the beginning, RZE is all about accessible, titanium tool watches. We’ve already established that the UTD-8000 is made from Grade 2 titanium and that it’s more than capable as a timekeeping tool. But what about accessibility? Well, this shiny new contender to the G-SHOCK will set you back $219, or $369 on the full titanium bracelet. That’s roughly £175 or £295. Sure, a digital watch might seem like it’s come out of the blue, but you can’t deny that it ticks every box –and then some.

Find out more at rzewatches.com

Positioned at the heart of Glasgow’s collectors’ community, James Porter & Sons has been in family hands for five generations and is a mainstay in Glasgow’s Argyll Arcade, from where they have built a reputation for showcasing and celebrating cool, independent watch brands

JAMES PORTER & SONS

A look at the collector-centric, independent-led fixture of the Glasgow watch scene

There are a lot of watch shops around. I mean, just stroll down Bond Street, Regent Street, or any high street in the UK and you’ll find at least one place selling a solid array of classic Swiss brands. That’s no bad thing but it is a bit… uninspiring. One chain store selling your Omegas, Rolexes, and other mainstream Swiss brands is generally the carbon copy of another. They might vary in size, but that’s about it.

As collectors, we want something different, something that doesn’t cater to the kind of brands splashed across advertising at the airport. And where London’s new poster child for independent watchmaking is Time + Tide, independent, interesting watchmaking is something that Glasgow’s James Porter & Sons have been doing for years.

Founded in 1858, James Porter & Sons is today run by the fifth generation of the family, Simon Porter and while they’ve been a mainstay in Glasgow’s renowned Argyll Arcade since the 1960s, the last few years has seen some serious expansion. That’s because in 2022 they opened a dedicated watch space further in the arcade – and took the opportunity to double down on the reputation for cool, independent brands they’d already been curating – and the key to that curation, other than an eye for a cool timepiece of course, is independence.

“These brands don’t make enough watches for every shop in the country to stock them”, explains Simon Porter. “But these are the brands that drive the collectors’ community. Even before lockdown we saw these watches on people’s wrists, the Doxas, the Sins, the Nomos Glashuttes. They were buying them online and internationally, brands that the bigger chain stores just couldn’t make sense of. It’s a relatively small market, but one we love and love catering to.”

That all said, as you might have gathered not just from our microbrand corner but our round-up of indie watchmakers at Geneva Watch Week, there’s more than a few to choose from. A lot of them are cool; a handful of them might be considered commercial. But there’s one rule of thumb that Simon always sticks to.

“First and foremost, we have to like them! It could be one model, one collection that draws you in. Sure, we hope it’ll be a good seller, but if one of us is drawn to a particular brand we’ll consider it. Micromilspec for example. I’d never heard of them before, but the Milgraph drew us in. Once you learn about their other watches you start to appreciate the brand as a whole, but there’s always that first touchstone.”

As for Simon’s particular tastes (independent brands take

James Porter & Sons are known for offering some incredible exclusive colourways and variations on classic watches from their brands

note): “personally I like a chronograph – and against all trends I like a large chronograph. I’ve always liked something a bit different. Although against type, the last watch I bought was the Grand Seiko Soko Frost we did with them. I wear a lot of light blue and I’ve been waiting for a steel, blue dial Grand Seiko, so our exclusive was the perfect opportunity.”

There’s a particular word in there that should excite some collectors: exclusive. James Porter & Sons are known for offering some incredible exclusive colourways and variations on classic watches from their brands. Obviously, these pieces need to be in small quantities but given the store’s place at the heart of Glasgow’s collectors’ community, that makes a lot of sense. And while that’s enough to have brands lining up to do exclusives, there is another reason. A picture says a thousand words, which makes James Porter & Sons particularly eloquent.

You might have come across their photography on Instagram. In fact, you probably did even if you didn’t know it at the time. Allen McLellan is a wizard behind a lens when it comes to shooting timepieces and while those pictures are fantastic in and of themselves – seriously, go check them out – it perhaps ties a bow on just why a single boutique in Scotland has become the go-to for the independent watch scene in the UK.

Despite their heritage, James Porter & Sons is a store that’s moved with the times. As recent prices and sales figures show, mainstream watches have been in a bit of a slump. Not so niche independents, whose agile release slates, aggressive pricing and sheer cool factor have boomed. Simon has put James Porter & Sons at the centre of that, through curation of some genuinely great brands from the uber-accessible Herbelin to prestige names like Czapek, an online presence with imagery Watches of Switzerland would kill for and an emphasis on collectors, rather than everyday punters. You can see why watch lovers shop there and watch brands love being there. As Nicholas Bowman-Scargill of Fears watches says:

“I’ve always thought of James Porter & Son as one of the premier watch (and jewellery) retailers in the UK since before Fears started working with them in 2022. Their style of combing extensive heritage with working as a thoroughly modern business has always impressed me as it results in a feel of traditional luxury. The Fears team and myself have the pleasure of working with Simon Porter and his knowledgeable and passionate team. Simon is one of the most professional store owners that I know and a retail man through and through.”

Obviously, the watch world keeps on producing more and more pieces, with more and more brands trying to crack the UK market. So, what’s on the horizon for James Porter and Son’s inventory?

“I think Norqain is quite exciting. The UK seems to be the last market for them, and I really like them,” says Simon. “We’ve just taken on Formex and I’ve been absolutely blown away, I can’t remember a brand I’ve been that excited about for quality and value. And when you delve into the history you understand why. Of course, we’ll see what else happens after Watches & Wonders.”

Find out more at james-porter.co.uk/watches

While the Black Hole could be likened to an MB&F for its curvaceous asymmetry, the Orb is closer to a traditional watch, but still boasts the big, bold, automotive-flavour futurism that has come to define Vanguart

VANGUART

The follow up to the Black Hole harnesses the same grand futurism, but with a traditional tilt

Independent watchmaking seems to be in an ascendency that shows no sign of stopping. But, it has split into two very distinct poles. On one end you have the classical horologists like Laurent Ferrier, F.P. Journe, and Biver, creating gorgeous traditional watches. On the other you have the iconoclasts, the groundbreakers that, while sometimes divisive always make a splash. It’s among that latter group, the MB&Fs and Urwerks of the world that Vanguart is more than ready to take their place.

While the brand was founded in 2017 by a watch-loving quartet of experts – Axel Leuenberger, Mehmet Koruturk, Jérémy Freléchox, and Thierry Fischer – the story of Vanguart actually starts long before the brand ever existed with a watch that caused quite a lot of buzz: the Black Hole.

“We didn’t actually know Thierry back then,” explains Axel, “but we did get the buzz around the watch. So, when we finally met, it just clicked: you’re the guy behind the Black Hole! And ten years later, we had the opportunity to make it a reality.”

If you’re wondering why it didn’t become a reality sooner than that, that’s because the Black Hole wasn’t really meant to be built – or at least, that wasn’t its main reason for being. Thierry is an industrial designer first and foremost and actually designed it for his diploma a decade before Vanguart became a reality. And just look at the thing, constantly rotating rings orbiting around a central tourbillon surrounded by sci-fi racing lines. It’s out-of-this-world in more ways than one, including, practically.

“When I was first designing the Black Hole,” says Thierry of the process, “I didn’t have the knowledge I have today. I didn’t understand how to meet the physical constraints of watchmaking, especially the movements. To me, it was an incredible idea; it was up to Axel and Jeremy to make it work.”

Speaking of Axel, between himself and co-founder Jérémy Freléchox, you couldn’t ask for a better pair of watchmakers to get stuff done. Both are veterans of those four mythical letters, APRP, or Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi. The legendary movement development studio has alumni scattered across the watch world, like A. Lange & Sohne’s Tony de Haas, the Brothers Gronefeld. Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Christophe Claret. So, when they get excited about a project, you know there’s something in there – and they were very excited about the Black Hole.

“The case is very special,” says Axel. “Every shape is designed like a car. There are no straight lines, all curves, and when you pass the light and see it moving over the watch it’s incredible, a mix of sporty, futuristic and artisan.”

It’s hard not to look at the Black Hole and imagine a serious horological pedigree behind it. Nobody would doubt you if you told them it was an MB&F for its curvaceous asymmetry and unique approach to time. Where many independent watchmakers struggle with their sophomore album – especially when it hit such a stride as the Black Hole – that wasn’t the case for Thierry.

“Honestly, the second project was easier. Everything about the Black Hole is atypical and transferring those design codes to something that actually has hands, is actually symmetrical, that idea made it easier than staring at a blank page.”

Not that he’s been making things any easier on Axel and Jérémy over the years, of course. That’s one of the benefits of coming from a non-watch background of course, coming at things from a completely new perspective and not constantly bow to the whims of time and space. Nor does Thierry ever aim to hit the finished target first time.

“It’s never a case of drawing a finished watch,” says Thierry. “It’s more about how what I draw, the ideas I put to paper, can be translated into a watch. That’s my favourite part of the process, working with Axel to figure out how – or even if – we can make it work.”

Obviously, the question then is, does it always work?

“I have to say no all the time!” says Axel. “But there’s often some serendipity too. You need to take a step back and thing right, how can we address this? You end up finding a completely different approach, something new and cool. Sometimes the challenges lead to something better than we were expecting.”

That’s how you end up with Orb, Vanguart’s 2024 follow-up. And indeed, it’s closer to a traditional watch than the Black Hole, but in the same way that the UK is closer to Switzerland than it is Japan. Sure, it’s geographically on the same continent, but they’re still very different countries. It has hands, a rounded shape and recognisable features, but there’s nothing ‘traditional’ about Orb. It treads the same aesthetic footprint of automotive-flavour futurism, big, bold and very obviously an incredible piece of horology. Baby’s first FlikFlak this is not. In Axel’s words, “we make watches for people that have everything. A Vanguart is never going to be someone’s first watch.”

I mean, you could buy a Black Hole or Orb as your debut timepiece, but given the esotericism inbuilt into watches like this – and the fact that Vanguart currently make just 100 pieces a year – it’s unlikely you’ll even know about them until you’re in too deep. That all said, once you’re at this level, there’s plenty to appreciate about what Vanguart do.

“Collectors look at brands like Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille,” says Axel, “watchmakers that are both sporty and amazingly finished, hitting both types of watch and both types of collectors. That’s where we want to be. We’re part-way there already, we have two points along an axis in the Black Hole and Orb. But we need the third so people can triangulate what we’re all about.”

That third plot on the graph won’t be with us until 2026 at the earliest, so don’t hold your breath quite yet. What you can look forward to are new editions of both watches currently in the Vanguart stable. We’re sworn to secrecy on details, but Vanguart’s future is looking very interesting. In fact, Axel puts it best:

“I believe the future is something we can put into a watch. So that’s what we do.”

Find out more at vanguart.com

Oracle DISCOVERS

JUSTIN RICHARDSON –TANK 432

In March 2025 Justin Richardson won two Gold Awards at the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Awards for his incredible Tank 432 Black Motherof-Pearl and 828 Octavo Evening Watch. There’s a level of detail and intricacy to handcrafted watches that other forms of production simply cannot match. Inspired by iconic Art Deco watches like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, the facets of the Tank 432’s angular case are immaculate and the dial is so incredibly precise.

Prices from £17,400, available at justinrichardson.co.uk

EMBER WATCH COMPANY – ROCKET

With a name like Rocket, the debut watch from Ember Watch Company feels like a stylish ode to all things sci-fi. The 40mm diameter stainless steel case is deeply facetted with sharp angles and lines featuring a bead-blasted matte finish that contrasts with the smooth, polished bezel. Combine that with the bright, colourful dials, such as white with mint green, and it almost wouldn’t look out of place in a sci-fi film. A fusion of concepts that are simultaneously retro and modern. Powering the piece is the Seiko NH38A with 41-hour power reserve.

£359, available from emberwatchcompany.com

HÉRON WATCHES –MARINOR RAINBOW

The Héron Marinor Rainbow is a visually spectacular watch with its rainbow decompression table occupying the central portion of the display in vivid colour. It’s also amazing value with 300m water resistance and an automatic Miyota movement for £510 on a steel bracelet. It’s also the first watch in Héron’s new Special Editions collection of limited production models, meaning there will be fewer made with fewer restocks, making them more exclusive. That does mean if you want one, you’d best stay alert for one of those rare restocks because it will be constantly sold out otherwise. £510 on steel bracelet, available from heronwatches.com

Beaubleu – Ecce Vesperal

Beaubleu have one of the most distinctive displays in the watch industry thanks their circular hands. It’s amazing how much impact changing the shape of a hand has and when it’s as non-traditional as this, it stands out all the more. The hands themselves feature on the dial of the Ecce, which is their sportiest and most industrial model with a steel case and broad, brushed bezel. Especially in the Vesperal variant with a matching brushed steel dial. If you prefer a more luxe look, there’s also the white dialled Lys with rose gold accents.

£637, available from beaubleu-paris.com

WAYFORTH – VOYAGER

Wayforth’s Voyager is designed to keep up with you on your travels wherever they may take you. In that endeavour, it’s equipped with a chronograph function and a dual time zone display. A chronograph can be used to calculate your speed or even distance travelled with a quick calculation while the dual time display, consisting of an inner rotating bezel with 12-hour scale, lets you track local time and home time when globetrotting. There are eight colours to choose from, each housing the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz movement. £314, available from wayforthwatches.com

JOHNSON’S OF LICHFIELD – BESPOKE WINDER SAFE

Johnson’s of Lichfield are a luxury safe retailer specialising in designing robust custom watch and jewellery safes for your home. This elegant, modern safe from their Luxe range includes custom chrome bolt pockets and hardware, as well as reliable Rapport Watch Winders. These beautiful pieces of furniture are all made to order letting the client choose their exact specification. A practical and great addition to any watch collector’s home. Additionally, they are insurance approved.

£12,000, available from johnsonsoflichfield.co.uk

Nixiefab – La « NBnixie N° 1 » tubes ZIN 70

More of a horological accessory for your home, Nixiefab produce a wide range of Nixie tube clocks. Nixie tubes use light to display numerals making for a soft glowing time display with a cool retro vibe harking back to the 1970s. This edition features a stand made of ebonised oak and raw lime wood, creating a dynamic contrast between the light and dark wood. It also features wi-fi connectivity to automatically correct itself to local time.

Quotes available at nixiefab-france.fr

Benson Watch Winders –Black Series

Benson’s Black Series is their highend watch winder collection for between two and 12 watches depending on the model. Despite the name they can feature a variety of finishes, though the signature is of course the black lacquer. Each of the rotors in the fleet of winders can also be set individually, allowing you to customise each to the watch they are destined to hold, preventing overwinding and potential damage to your pieces. On top of the winder portion of the box, they feature storage space for additional watches.

Black Series 8.16.B $1,950 (approx. £1,500), available from bensonwatchwinders.com

HEIST CLEAN - WATCH CLEANING KIT

The Heist Watch Cleaning Kit includes everything you need to keep your watches in top condition and tackle any grime that’s built up on your timepieces. It contains an 80ml cleaning solution specially formulated for use on all the common materials used in watchmaking, including precious metals. A microfibre cloth for ensuring a nice finish at the end of the cleaning process and a soft-bristle brush for reaching awkward positions between bracelet links or around the bezel. £31, available at heistclean.com

ARTEM – LOOP-LESS HYDROFLEX STRAP

Artem’s latest strap is the Loop-less Hydroflex, a top quality FKM rubber strap that’s completely waterproof while having a texture that emulates their signature sailcloth. The loop-less appellation is a nod to the fact that it’s fitted with a deployant clasp so there is no need for the additional keepers found on traditional straps that keep the tail of the strap in order. It’s the perfect strap for a variety of watches, as the saying goes, from boardroom to beach.

£196, available from artemstraps.co.uk

Carmen Delprat Art

Art, like time, is more than what meets the eye – it is an experience, a shift in perception, a quiet force that transforms a space. In the surreal world of Carmen Delprat Art, each piece extends beyond the canvas, offering limited edition prints, originals and exclusive art scarves. Collecting isn’t about filling walls; it’s about curating pieces that resonate, that evolve, that hold meaning. And in a world that moves fast, there is something profoundly compelling about art that makes you stop.

Fine Art Prints from $150 (approx. £115), available at carmendelpratart.com

LYZADIE DESIGN STUDIO –LETSWEAVE DINING TABLE

The LETSWEAVE Dining Table is a fascinating piece of furniture made in collaboration between designer Lyzadie and New Zealand artist Sheree Willman – and inspired by traditional Maōri design. The panel style design is inspired by Tukutuku, traditional panels found in Maōri meeting houses, using traditional colours. The result is a handcrafted table that’s as much a piece of art as it is functional utilitarian furniture. It’s produced in reclaimed rimu and kauri wood.

£10,450, available from lyzadiedesignstudio.com

SARAH GRAHAM

Sarah Graham is a British artist known for her rich use of colour in her work, best known for photorealistic oil paintings such as this Kaiser Chiefs album cover. It’s all about creating a vivid visual in still life that satisfies an obsession with bright colour and the joys of life. Bringing into focus the small elements of life that bring us comfort and which we don’t always appreciate for their full value such as toys, ornaments and sweets. Her work is available in prints, original paintings and a host of additional items such as mugs, cushions and clothing with which to furnish your home and yourself.

Art prints from £150, available at sarahgraham.info

Erwin Sattler –Opus PM 70 III

Watches might occupy most of our attention, but mechanical clocks are a fantastic addition to any room in your house and there are no centrepiece clocks like those by Erwin Sattler. The Opus PM 70 III is a dramatic and modern pendulum clock that stands out for its impressive hand-painted blood moon at six o’clock. The case measures 70cm x 20cm x 10cm in black varnish housing a movement with an eight-day power reserve. Limited to 99 pieces, available from erwinsattler.com

IMPATIA – SCIVOLO SHUFFLEBOARD TABLE

Games night just got so much better with Impatia’s sleek and elegant takes on the classic games tables. From pool to chess to shuffleboard, their selection of contemporary designs combines the beauty of wood with the beauty of glass with the beauty of The Game. The Scivolo is available in a variety of finishes including modern and fresh natural oak or a more earthy walnut paired with dark green alcantara. Prices from €23,000, available at impatia.com

Xposed London – Double Breasted Suit

Xposed London is determined to showcase the depth and breadth of men’s formal fashion, whether for the office, a wedding or party. The double-breasted suit with pinstripe pattern is on the more traditional end of the spectrum in terms of style, though it can be incredibly striking in vibrant shades of blue and red if you so choose. Or a classic grey that’s suitable for multiple functions. Prices from £159.97, available from xposedlondon.com

SECRID –PREMIUM MINIWALLET

Measuring a sleek 102mm x 65mm x 21mm, the Secrid Premium Miniwallet is ideal for storing your money without totally ruining the line of your suit when held in the pocket. It’s also nice and specious despite its smaller size with space for four embossed or six flat cards, four extra cards, banknotes and business cards. It’s produced in Basco leather made by Tuscan artisans using sustainable vegetable tanning techniques. It’s also available in a variety of colours. £99.95, available from secrid.com

Hockerty –Custom Tailoring

Whether you’re looking for a two-piece, a three-piece, a tuxedo or tweed, Hockerty have all your suit needs covered. Their custom-tailored service is incredibly versatile, allowing you to choose from a huge range of styles and materials. Whether that be a summer-ready linen or a soft and comfortable Merino wool. You also have full control of lapel style, buttons, pockets, pleats and cuffs. Prices start from £229 depending on your customisation options. Available at hockerty.uk

BARKER SHOES – KELMARSH

The Kelmarsh wingtip Brogue Derby are part of the latest collection from Barker Shoes, an English shoe brand with 135 years of heritage. They’ve been based in England’s shoemaking heartland (Northamptonshire) since 1880 and still employ many of the traditional techniques they learned more than a century ago. The Kelmarsh shoes feature a classic brogue design with a natural finish and a comfortable fit.

£215, available from barkershoes.com

PEPER HAROW –CAMDEN SOCKS

Peper Harow’s latest arrival redefines British luxury socks. Made in the UK, each pair of luxury socks delivers both style and quality, and with a one-year guarantee and free UK delivery on orders over £30. It’s a tale as old as time: suit classic and refined, socks expressive and colourful. Especially with the Camden’s vibrant design and multiple colour options, including green, black, and grey. The organic cotton material is also incredibly comfortable. £18, available from peperharowengland.com