Oracle Time - Issue 82 - May 2022 (Global) by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .82

Longines is Flying on

ZULU TIME The Global Issue JET-SET GMTS | INTERNATIONAL DESIGN | DANISH STYLE

ISSUE 82

9.95

ORACLE TIME #82

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit Watch: Longines Spirit Zulu Time

A good number of us haven’t been able to travel as much as we’d like over the past couple of years. I don’t include myself in that; it wasn’t that long ago I was puffing cigars in the Dominican Republic, but I’m an outlier in these things. So, as travelling becomes more common again, we’ve brought a slice of the wider world to our pages. Of course, you’ll need a fitting travel companion (other than this issue, obviously), and that means a GMT. As we discover in our lead feature this issue (page 38), it was Longines that created the first dual time watch, but they aren’t the only brand that’s since gotten a taste of the typical traveller’s complication. Far from it, in fact. For our shoot this issue we got hands-on with 10 incredible, globe-trotting timepieces, ranging from accessibly cool GMTs to one combined with an annual calendar. If you can’t guess who’s that last one is, you should really check out the shoot on page 82 to find out. It’s a stunner. And that’s not all for GMTs, either. Consider this issue an ode to the dual time zone complication and its many, many faces, because on page 49 (after a brief explanation on the intricacies of Office vs. True GMTs), we delve into some of the coolest expressions of jet-set watchmaking around divided - for collectors’ convenience - into their various price categories. For every well-priced impulse buy, there’s a serious investment piece. Now, where are you going to go with your newfound travel companion? Well, if you’re desperate for the latest sartorial cool, then you may want to head to Copenhagen. As Paddy Maddison explores on page 72, the Danish capital has emerged as one of the new fashion capitals of the world. Minimal, naturalistic style meeting high fashion makes for a melting pot of new ideas, on the catwalk and off. It’s a striking counterpoint to Milan, a city that’s as interwoven in fashion and design as it’s possible to be. Still, even if you’ve been there before, Nick Savage is an ex-local. So, before your next inevitable trip to the jewel of northern Italy, brush up on where to eat, drink and stay on page 134. Speaking of drinks, forget New World wine and Old, as Rob Bellinger explores some fantastic wines coming out of unique terroirs around the world. Even if you’re not planning on travelling any time soon, you can get a taste of the world from the five exquisite bottles on page 121. If you do find yourself in another city, in another country, it might not be how you remember it. All around the world new building projects have emerged that prove architects certainly haven’t been resting their pencil hands over the last couple of years. The world’s skinniest skyscraper, while terrifying, is a masterclass in high-rise design, while Austrian chalets shaped like wooden pipes make for a fantastical forest getaway. Find out more on page 125. If after all that you’re still desperate for some horological goodness, never fear. The Japanese watchmaking has been riding a (great) wave over the past few years with, yes, the big, established names but also some incredible independents that share that same obsession with quality. Justin Hast explores more on page 110. So, stay safe and sane on your travels (easier said than done at the airport, I know) and as ever, enjoy this issue. Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

ORACLE TIME #82

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs

Shane C. Kurup

Shane is a men’s style editor who has worked for a range of leading titles, including The MR PORTER Journal, Men’s Health UK, Esquire US, PORT, The Telegraph and Wallpaper*. He’s rather partial to a jazzy silk shirt, wide-leg trousers and a gin and Dubonnet (or three).

Rob Bellinger

Paddy Maddison

Bon vivant, man about town and modern day Hemingway, Rob has been pontificating on the finer things in life since the dawn of time. Always armed with a magnum of Champagne, an international race license and an arsenal of cars; he’s the life, soul and ambience of the soirée. He tells us.

Paddy Maddison is a freelance menswear journalist with a keen interest in outerwear. When he’s not plotting his next big-coat purchase for the coming winter, he can be found at his desk, typing up words for the likes of The Independent, Esquire, GQ and Men’s Health. He’s also Style Editor at Ape to Gentleman and a former Contributing Editor at FashionBeans.

Justin Hast

Nick Savage

Nick will try any dish once, whether it’s tarantula stew in Cambodia, muskox Thai green curry in Greenland or mopane worms in Zimbabwe. As a food and travel journalist, he has travelled the world, but his favourite place to eat will always be London.

Describing himself as “unreasonably optimistic and deeply curious”, multihyphenate creative Mr Justin Hast is a photographer, writer and consultant with an impressive portfolio of brands under his belt, including the likes of Drake’s, Leica, IWC and Asprey.

danmobbs@hotmail.com JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8271 4615

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8271 4616

Ozy Mamodeally

Ozy Mamodeally is an avid watch enthusiast, monochromatic photographer, wannabe explorer, and lover of all things vintage. You can find him on Instagram @ analogue_watch_reviews.

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Phil Peachey Phil.peachey@opulentmedia.co.uk 0203 985 1414 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 8271 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #82

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 82

18 — AFICIONADO

38 — SOARING SPIRITS

Discover all the latest on our radar and what should be in your basket this month

26 — NEWS

What’s going on in the world of luxury, haute horology and the latest current affairs

35 — INTRODUCING

All the latest global watch releases from holy trinity brands and small independents

45 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

Exploring the movements that make office GMT and true GMT watches timezones apart

Longines’ expansion of their excellent spirit collection offers a historical deep dive in a distinctly modern GMT

It’s incredibly reliable, does everything you’d want from a GMT movement and pushes the Spirit Zulu Time into serious value territory Soaring Spirits — p38

ORACLE TIME #82

CONTENTS

68 — STYLE MANIFESTO

Exploring the lessersung labels bringing a worldly nous to our wardrobes

72 — COPEN’ WITH IT Copenhagen is the style capital of Scandinavia and now one to watch globally

82 — WORLD CLASS A few of our favourite traveller’s watches to help you trot the globe in style

99 — WATCH REVIEWS

125

OT gets hands on with Tudor, Vacheron and Schofield

110 — JAPANESE WATCHMAKING

It’s about time Japanese watchmaking got the attention it so very much deserves

121 — AROUND THE WORLD IN FIVE WINES We sample some fantastic wines coming out of unique terroirs around the world 82

125 — BEGUILING BUILDINGS

110

His work is beautiful and approachable – but good luck getting your hands on one Japanese Watchmaking — p110

49 — TRAVEL COMPANIONS

Dive into the coolest expressions of jet-set watchmaking with our handy GMT guide

60 — PEAKING BEHIND THE SCENES The head of Bulgari Watches talks QR codes and NFTs

Gaze upon some of the most awe-inspiring global architecture of the moment

134 — MAKING THE MOST OF MILAN

The grown-up capital of northern Italy is full of surprising splashes of culture

144 – IN FOCUS

An upcycled watch, Spain’s horological hero, and railroad movements are in the spotlight

153 – MICROBRAND CORNER

Introducing the latest and greatest watches from the best small scale independents

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

EYE OF THE HURACÁN Possibly the biggest refresh of Lamborghini’s entry-level hypercar since its original launch in 2014, the new Tecnica combines track focused craziness with the more everyday adrenaline of the rear-wheel-drive EVO, for what might just be the perfect road-meets-track Lambo ever. With a host of stylistic and mechanical tweaks, and full-on revamps, you’ll be hearing this baby roaring down a 30mph city road near you soon. At time of writing there’s no word on price or release date, so keep an eye on lamborghini.com for more details

FRONT — aficionado

WAY OF THE SAMURAI We’re more used to seeing trackinspired composites and uncompromising sporty designs rather than metiers d’art from the iconoclastic Richard Mille, but here we are, with the RM47 Tourbillon. The focal point of the watch isn’t its namesake complication, a rendition of a Bushido warrior that has taken over 25 hours of meticulous craftsmanship to create. The fully armoured samurai is brandishing a pair of katanas and heraldry inspired by the lord of the 47 Ronin, Asano Naganori. Limited to 75 pieces, richardmille.com

FRONT — aficionado

POP A WHEELIE Justin Bieber is many things, but a moped designer isn’t one of them. Until now. The Canadian pop star has teamed up with none other than Vespa to create his own monochromatic take on the iconic Italian two-wheeler. Embellished with subtle tone-on-tone flames and Bieber’s signature on the rear, it’s a frustratingly cool, all-white take on the classic scooter. And yes, it comes with a matching helmet. Find out more at vespa.com

FRONT — aficionado

HOLDING COURT While they may be the title sponsor, Rolex aren’t the only brand inextricably linked to the Monte Carlo Masters, and to celebrate 10 years of association, Sergio Tacchini have released a limitededition capsule collection. The Italian athletics label has taken inspiration from the Mediterranean coast with geometric patterns and nautical colourways, perfect for the well-heeled members of the Monte Carlo Country Club – especially the impeccably cool Crepe De Chine satin cabana sets. Monte Carlo Camp Shirt, £78.00, Shorts £70.00, eu.sergiotacchini.com

FRONT — aficionado

ROSÉ TINTED GLASSES Summer means rosé, but don’t for a second think that means the usual pink juice with far too much ice to quell the summer heat. A good rosé is so much more than that – case in point, Château Minuty 281 Côtes de Provence. Fine white fruit in place of the bludgeoning strawberries you’re used to and the kind of intensity and complexity you’d expect from a reserve wine, there are few better drinks to enjoy along the Cote d’Azur this summer. The bottle is pretty impressive, too. £55.99, en.minuty.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

ROYAL OAK 50TH ANNIVERSARY WATCH AUCTION On Friday 6 May, Phillips is hosting a watch auction in Geneva celebrating the legacy of one of the foremost sports watches of our time, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Highlights of the auction include the piece unique Ref. 25865ST with an estimate of CHF 500,000 (approx. £400,000). It’s a stainless steel grand complication consisting of a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and a split-seconds chronograph, and three premier haute horological functions. Expect a large variety of models and references up for sale, making it an unmissable event for AP fans, or those looking to add some real bang to their collection. More details at phillips.com

FRONT — world news

MERCEDES MAYBACH X VIRGIL ABLOH COLLABORATION The late Virgil Abloh was known for pushing notions of luxury forward in every industry he chose to become a part of and while his legacy will focus on his fashion and clothing, he also made an impact in the automotive industry. He had a creative partnership with Mercedes-Maybach and the final project he worked on before his passing has been revealed. It’s a limited edition bespoke S-Class and combined capsule collection. The car is a two-tone leviathan of luxury with an obsidian roof and sandy flanks; a colour palette that makes its way to the clothing capsule as well. Learn more at mercedes-benz.com

The car is a two-tone leviathan of luxury with an obsidian roof and sandy flanks; a colour palette that makes its way to the clothing capsule as well

RETURN OF GENEVA INTERNATIONAL MOTOR SHOW One of the largest automotive shows in the world is set to return in 2023 after a three year hiatus. Due to the global pandemic the show was cancelled in 2020, 2021 and 2022, meaning car fans haven’t been able to gather since 2019. It’s one of the most prestigious events on the car show calendar as it’s where many of the top brands share their latest and most exciting innovations. The show takes place from February 14 to 19 of next year at the Palexpo in Geneva, offering the perfect excuse to visit the home of watchmaking while you’re there.

FRONT — world news

competition WIN A BESPOKE SHIRT Now that we’re all back in the office – or at least heading back in the near future – it’s time to put your best foot forward with a new shirt. After all, it’s the vital component that underpins your entire work ensemble. And, it’s a fact of life that you can’t get better than bespoke. Well, we have one such shirt to give away, courtesy of none other than Budd Shirts. Budd bespoke shirts are hand-cut and hand-crafted in-house and are among the finest in London – which given the capital’s reputation for tailoring, means the world. All you need to do to win is sign up to our newsletter at oracleoftime.com and follow us on Instagram. Not only will you be in with a chance to upgrade your wardrobe, but you’ll get the latest watch news and reviews directly to your inbox and feed. That’s a win-win situation if ever there was one. For more on Budd Shirts’ bespoke service, visit buddshirts.co.uk

FRONT — world news

NEW LUXURY RESORT OPENING ON PAROS Kanava Hotels and Resorts is opening a new location on the idyllic Greek island paradise Paros called Cosme in June 2022. Set along the peaceful north coast of the island, it promises the ultimate relaxation with a beachfront Mediterranean restaurant, full spa and 40 suites. Paros is part of the Cyclades island group in the Aegean sea, which has a unique culture dating back to the Bronze age, around 3200-1000BC. But don’t worry, all the conveniences at Cosme are entirely modern and contemporary. Find out more at kanavahotels.com

Set along the north coast of the island, it promises ultimate relaxation

OFF-WHITE JOINS THE CRYPTO HYPE Off-White has announced it will accept Bitcoin, Ethereum, Binance Coin, Tether and USD Coin

JENSON BUTTON RACES TO ENTER THE WHISKY GAME UK F1 star Jenson Button has partnered with whisky expert, George Koutsakis to launch a premium Scotch blend whisky called Coachbuilt. The whisky is a sherry cask blend of exceptional liquids distilled in all five of Scotland’s iconic whisky regions of Islay, Speyside, Campbeltown, Highlands and Lowlands. It has notes of summer fruits and spice followed by toffee and citrus. The finish is long with a dominant smokiness. The concept behind the drink is that Jenson and George realised there were similarities in the craftsmanship and attention to detail in both coachbuilt vehicles and fine whisky, drawing on aspects of both to create this drink. £42, available from coachbuiltwhisky.com

Considering that this is our second piece of Off-White related news this month, it’s plain to see that the uber-cool brand is maintaining its status as a leading fashion name, despite losing one of the greatest creative minds in Virgil Abloh. And when it comes to staying trendy, the dominant commercial trend in luxury industries is cryptocurrency. Off-White has announced that it will now accept Bitcoin, Ethereum, Binance Coin, Ripple, Tether and USD Coin across its flagship stores, making it easier to spend your crypto and convert your digital assets to physical ones.

FRONT — time out

OR ACLE

TIM E :O U T

@hendersonshorology Mood lighting, contrast and a pair of sexy dials make for a seriously appealing shot – and this example from UK-based photographer Hendersons Horology has it all. On the (luxurious, high-quality) paper of Oracle Time issue 81 you have the salmon-dialled Perpetual Calendar from Vacheron Constantin; pure prestige and vintage watchmaking. On the other, the impeccably cool blue tapisserie dial of the Tissot PRX, one of the finest affordable timepieces you can buy.

The two watches may be worlds apart in price and prestige, but when it comes down to it, they’re both great pieces – and together make for one great shot. Want to showcase your own eye for a perfectly composed watch shot? Well, get your hands on this issue, get snapping and don’t forget to use #oracletimeout for your chance to nab a page to yourself next month.

For now though, Oracle Time, Out.

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THERE ARE MANY WAYS to get your Oracle Time fix. Our favourite is of course within these lovely glossy pages to which you can subscribe via our website. An annual subscription containing 10 issues of the magazine is only £89.50, more value than a serious microbrand watch. Alternatively, you can come and say hello on one of our many digital channels. Instagram is the perfect place to share your wristshots and thoughts with us – remember to use #OTWristshot. Or you can watch our latest video content on YouTube, listening to the dulcet tones of our editor via our website using the QR code in the top right.

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

IN DETAIL •

•

39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance 2968 calibre automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve POA, audemarspiguet.com

INTRO DUCING

AUDEMARS PIGUET © diode SA - Denis Hayoun

Royal Oak RD#3

It’s the year of the Royal Oak, and 50 years on from the creation of the legendary sports watch, Audemars Piguet have been celebrating. Hard. Not only did they release a new generation of Jumbo, they’ve upped the mechanical ante with the variation’s first ever flying tourbillon. True to the Jumbo, it has the smallest profile of any AP flying tourbillon at 3.4mm in height, keeping things wearably svelte. Complete with the famous blue Tapisserie dial, it’s nonlimited, though it is price on request, so don’t expect to see many of them in the wild.

BELL & ROSS BR 03-94 Multimeter

If you’ve ever wondered just how many scales you can fit on a watch, Bell & Ross would like to talk to you via the medium of the BR 03-94 Multimeter. Five different, incredibly colourful scales offer various nuggets of time-based information, all with a handy key built onto the dial itself. If you want a mechanical workout watch, this is the one for you – although it’s probably a touch too large, square and ceramic to be comfortable running in. That doesn’t stop it being one of Bell & Ross’s coolest releases to date.

IN DETAIL • •

•

42mm ceramic case with 100m water resistance BR-CAL.301 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve £4,900, limited to 500 pieces, bellross.com

FRONT — introducing

THE DETAILS:

41mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • CFB 1972 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve £5,500, limited to 88 pieces per city, carl-f-bucherer.com •

•

CARL F BUCHERER

THE DETAILS:

•

Heritage Bicompax Annual Hometown Edition

A colourful new take on Carl F Bucherer’s incredibly pretty 2018 release, the latest incarnations of the Heritage Bicompax Annual are a lot less rose-tinted. In fact, there’s plenty of colour going on here, with five different dials, matching contrast straps and cityspecific caseback engravings paying homage to one of 16 important urban centres. Just because they’re fun though doesn’t mean these aren’t serious watches, and they’re backed by the calibre and engineering that made the 2018 version such a fantastic timepiece. The London edition with its green dial is particularly goodlooking. Not that we’re biased or anything.

40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • fearswatches.com

FEARS Garrick

We’re always up for a collaboration, but when it involves two luminaries of British watchmaking – specifically the vintage cool of Fears and the in-house haute horology of Norfolk’s Garrick watches – it’s more than just novel. The movement, including its signature open balance wheel, is pure Garrick, making this the highest-end Fears to date. Style-wise though, it’s pure Bristolian classicism rendered in white enamel with all the obsessive attention to detail Fears are known for. Aside from the layout like a screaming face, this might just be one of the best British timepieces around.

FRONT — introducing

ROLEX

Air King Ref. 126900

This year Rolex have designated the previously underrated Air King as the hottest watch on the planet, with a few aesthetic tweaks and quality-of-life changes to the aviation timepiece. Those include slab case sides, a crown protector, more refined lugs and an overhauled bracelet. More importantly, they’ve finally added the missing zero to the five. It also boasts the latest generation movement and, while not the most exciting revamp in the world, brings the Air King finally in line with the rest of the Rolex steel sports collection.

THE DETAILS:

•

RADO

Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Diver

Rado are continuing their Captain Cookshaped run of success by transforming the already substantial diving watch into a true professional instrument. Bigger, beefier and with a solid 300m water resistance, it uses the same high-tech ceramic that Rado are the best at, paired with a few retro touches based on the older models. With an updated movement and a few cool, stealthy colourways, this is a straight-up upgrade to last year’s ultra-sleek releases. It’s cleaner, more serious and just what the Captain Cook needed.

THE DETAILS:

43mm ceramic case with 300m water resistance R763 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • From £2,730, rado.com •

•

40mm Oystersteel case with 100m water resistance Calibre 3230 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £5,900, rolex.com

FRONT — soaring spirits

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

SOARING SPIRITS LONGINES’ EXPANSION OF THEIR EXCELLENT SPIRIT COLLECTION OFFERS A HISTORICAL DEEP DIVE IN A DISTINCTLY MODERN GMT

FRONT — soaring spirits

Longines’ aviation history took flight with the 1908 Turkish Watch (left) and continued with the original 1925 Spirit Zulu (right), which was a distinctly more square number than its modern successor

Until recently, Longines were more casually affiliated with the equestrian than the airborne, with plenty of adverts of beautiful people stroking even more beautiful horses. That was until the Spirit, the low-key best pilots watch of 2020 – even among some seriously stiff competition. With it, the Swatch Group watchmaker turned the spotlight on the aviation history that, until then, had only really been nodded to in their historical reproductions. And while I’m the first to wax lyrical about the Longines Heritage collection, the Spirit was the first time in recent memory that Longines’ aviation roots were made mainstream.

Before their DTZ wristwatch, Longines built a pocket watch equivalent in 1908 to convert between Turkish and Western time for the Ottoman Empire 40

Last year Longines expanded the Spirit collection with an incredibly cool titanium version. What they didn’t do though was expand its functionality, which is a shame as the Spirit was crying out for a traveller’s complication. I’d have loved a Worldtimer (my own Master Collection Longines Worldtime is the cleanest and clearest I’ve come across) but there’s no doubt a GMT would have been an instant success. The stripped back aviation aesthetics of the Spirit were crying out for it. Now, those cries have been heard, and the Longines Spirit Zulu Time is everything I hoped it would be. Zulu Time is not, as it sounds, the time around Christmas that the family gathers round to watch a Michael Caine classic; it’s simply an anachronistic alternative to GMT. The name comes from the ‘zero hours’ of Greenwich Mean Time, with the Z being replaced with the NATO phonetic stand-in, Zulu. While over the years the term’s slipped out of modern parlance, it still crops up in military circles. Though in the case of Longines, the specific reference is to a 1925 dual time-zone timepiece. To put that into context, that’s before Patek Philippe and a solid 30 years before Rolex. In fact, Longines’ heritage in the field goes back even further. Before their DTZ wristwatch, Longines built a pocket watch equivalent in 1908, made to convert between Turkish and Western time for the Ottoman Empire. They built cockpit clocks, the Weems with two sets of independently adjustable hands and were a favourite of aviation pioneers across the world. If all that comes as a surprise you’re not alone – the lack of recognition is an unfortunate reality. It’s also one that Longines are doing their best to counteract, and the Spirit Zulu Time is a solid step on the road to historical recognition. Granted, aside from the name and complication it has very little to do with the original 1925 model; that was a staunchly square number with a funky dial. The Spirit has neither of those things, instead opting for a more timeless (sorry) look. Honestly, if you like the Spirits of the last couple of years, you’ll like this. Aesthetically, there’s very little difference. There are vintage nods of course – the five stars across the dial taken from an Admiral model from the 1960s and the famous winged hourglass logo – but incorporated into a distinctly modern layout. This isn’t the Heritage collection, faithfully re-creating past models, but a modern riff on the aviation theme. That idea’s hammered home with the 42mm case, a touch large to be considered retro but that perfectly wearable contemporary sweet spot that means most wrists can get away with it. And Comfortably, too, with the new micro-adjustment bracelet. What’s perhaps more important however is that the new piece uses a ‘True’ GMT. I won’t go into too much detail on the subject (you can check our Oracle Speaks

FRONT — soaring spirits

Longines’ aviation heritage reaches new heights with the Spirit Zulu (top) and follows the 1937 black-dialled Cockpit Clock (bottom right) and the beautifully ornate onion-crowned 1931 Cockpit Clock (above)

FRONT — soaring spirits

It’s incredibly reliable, does everything you’d want from a GMT movement and pushes the Spirit Zulu Time into serious value territory

this issue for the detailed low-down) but suffice it to say that it’s the more mechanically impressive take on the second timezone functionality. Add on top of that a silicon balance spring, three days of power reserve and chronometer certification and the L844.4 calibre (a modified ETA, as you’d expect from sub-Omega Swatch Group) shows its multitudinous merits. It’s incredibly reliable, does everything you’d want from a GMT movement and pushes the Spirit Zulu Time into serious value territory. Colourwise, Longines have played it relatively safe here. There’s a standard black dial and bezel version that’s easy to appreciate but hard to get excited about. Then, there’s a blue on blue version that, with a couple of orange highlights, is a stunner. Finally, we have our cover star for this issue, the Kermit-adjacent combination of black dial and green bezel. This is by far the coolest of the lot, though not entirely due to the green and black combo. It’s the only one with gold numerals and hands which, with beige lume, has that whole vintage gilt look. It’s not going to stop me wanting the new Tudor GMT S&G any time soon, but it’s a close-run thing – and might just be the cooler, more under-the-radar alternative. It certainly offers the same level of value for money. A true GMT with chronometer certification is a serious proposal, and one this well-built could easily stray into the £3,000 plus mark with nary a raised eyebrow. But this is Longines and Longines knows where their strength lies; being able to offer the Spirit Zulu Time for £2,400 on a strap, and just £80 more for the bracelet version. Sure, the Spirit Zulu Time works perfectly well as an introduction into Longines’ often-ignored aviation heritage and by extension their world-class archive of superb vintage models. But more importantly, it may just be one of the finest GMTs in (or even slightly above) its price point. Now, where’s my Worldtimer?

xxxxxxxx

THE ORACLE SPEAKS OFFICE GMT VS.TRUE GMT They may look similar but it’s the movement intricacies that make these timekeeping watches timezones apart Words by OZY MAMODEALLY

But how do both styles of watch actually work? At first glance, both true GMT’s and office GMT’s are similar in appearance, yet both timekeeping options work very differently from one another.

[The Office GMT]

[Intro]

With travel back on the post-pandemic agenda, it’s time to venture into a different corner of the globe. For me, getting away is all about adventure and exploration and with these endeavours, preparation is key. So I need a new companion that fits my needs - that’s right, I need to invest in a new wristwatch specifically built for timezone travel. A GMT watch that enables me to track two different time zones simultaneously is the obvious choice. Dating back to the 1950s, the traditional Greenwich Meantime watch has come a long way since its Pan Am days, but with more options available, I’ve found myself hitting a stumbling block. I’m torn between the often-called office GMT and true GMT or travelle’rs GMT - as it is frequently referred to. So, what are the main differences between these two-zone timepieces? Essentially, the big boy brands of the watch world that offer true GMTs are the likes of Rolex with their Explorer and the obvious GMT Master II. But with Rolex’s sibling Tudor, and its recent foray into GMT watches with the Tudor Black Bay, and the newly released Tudor GMT Black Bay Pro, we are beginning to see a new breed of true GMT hitting the market, which is welcoming news for thos of us who are frequent flyers and need both practicality and functionality.

With an affordable price tag (they can be found for under £1,000), the two-timing office GMT has been designed with a rotating 24-hour bezel and a second hour hand that’s primed to run half as fast. The 24-hour hand circles the dial once per day, with its hand pointing to the corresponding hour, clearly demonstrating whether it’s a.m. or p.m. Some say the office GMT is a slightly tedious option, because upon arrival at your new destination you must reset the time of your arrival and adjust the GMT hand separately. This is because the GMT hand automatically moves with the hour hand when winding the crown. Another setback is that the date also has to be manually adjusted. First world problems I hear you say! I mean it’s not so arduous that it will hinder you from missing your connecting flight or anything, just more faff.

[The True GMT]

A true GMT is a pricier option than an office GMT largely because it utilises a more complex in-house movement. This enables the traveller to simply adjust the hour hand on the watch to display the local time, while the GMT hand will stay in its set position. In essence, you can quickly set the watch to the local time with a few winds of the crown, all without interfering with your home time zone. In addition, these movements also automatically reset the date for you when the local time passes midnight. However, there is no quickset date so during shorter months the wearer has to rotate the local hour hand twice around the dial. This also needs to be done if the watch has been dormant for a period.

oracle speaks

The office GMT is often available with affordable price tag, but has to be manually adjusted in a new timezone, while the true GMT is pricier but utilises a more complex in-house movement

[The verdict]

I personally find pleasure in both styles of watch. Sometimes spending more time engaging with one’s timepiece is not such a bad thing but, in a world where we need everything yesterday, it can be worth paying the price for convenience. And as singer and watch obsessive John Mayer once said; “the GMT is one of the world’s greatest apps.”

FRONT — travel companions

THE ULTIMATE TRAVEL COMPANIONS Edited by : SAM KESSLER

>—>>—>>—>

GMT; three little words that mean a lot in the watch world. The solar time at the Royal Observatory in scenic, maritime Greenwich has defined the time across the globe since 1884, sitting pretty at 0 degrees longitude. Those three letters have also come to define one of the most common and most useful complications around: the second time zone. Since the Glycine Airman of the 1953 and the Rolex GMT Master of 1954, the GMT has become the consummate traveller’s watch, able to effortlessly display both local and home time, whether you’re keeping track of other markets or just don’t want to phone home while everyone’s asleep. It’s no surprise then that there are hundreds of GMTs around to suit every style, wrist size and budget. So, whether you’re after an accessible travel companion or a left-handed version of an iconic timekeeper, we have you covered. Oh, and if you think we missed one check out our shoot, you may well spot your missing timepiece.

FRONT —mtravel companions

UNDER £1,000

For the economic traveller

THE DETAILS:

39mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Soprod C125 GMT Automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • €1,000 (approx. £830), baltic-watches.com

•

BALTIC

Aquascaphe GMT

Baltic have been killing it recently, and not just because of their coup in entering the Only Watch Auction. The Aquascaphe GMT is one of the coolest retro-slanted dual time zone watches around, especially in the blue and green bezel option. It has the same toolwatch style as their divers, but eminently suited to globe-trotters with half an eye on budget. Equipped with an impeccable beads of rice bracelet and a nicely engraved caseback, there’s a lot to love about Baltic’s high-flier.

MIDO

Ocean Star GMT

Always punching above their price tag, Mido’s latest addition to the rugged Ocean Star collection of diving watches adds a GMT function with the minimum of fanfare. The 24-hour hand can be read off the inner bezel, but the watch retains all the utilitarian style of the standard Ocean Star and its impressive movement. If you happen to be crossing time zones underwater, this is the watch for you – and while the blue version with a strap is the one to go for, you could, if you wanted, opt for a more retro vibe with the still affordable bi-colour version.

THE DETAILS:

44mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance Mido Caliber 80 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £960, midowatches.com •

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FRONT — under £1,000

THE DETAILS:

39mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance • Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve • £970, christopherward.com •

CHRISTOPHER WARD Sealander GMT

If the Sealander was a facsimile for the Explorer then this bad boy with its fixed 24-hour bezel is most definitely the Explorer II. In typical Christopher Ward style, there’s a lot to love for not a lot of cash: a lovely 39mm steel case, a utilitarian dial with plenty of bright lume for low light timekeeping while you’re navigating a cave system, and a flash of orange from the GMT hand. It ticks all the boxes. While there’s a lot to be said about the green version, the white is particularly good-looking – especially if you really want to ham up the Explorer II likeness.

FRONT —mtravel companions

£1,000 - £2,000

For the more seasoned traveller

THE DETAILS:

42mm case with 100m water resistance • BR-893-GMT automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £1,790 brellum.swiss •

“

The Cayman will survive whatever you throw at it

THE DETAILS:

42mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance • ETA 2893 calibre automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £1,900, delma.ch •

BRELLUM

Wyvern GMT Chronometer

Adding a GMT function to Brellum’s downright lovely Wyvern was always going to work wonders. The sporty, 42mm case, the nuanced dial (with googly eyes at six o’clock) and solid wrist presence all add up to a great, accessible watch. Add on top of that a second time zone and you have a welcome travel partner. While the blue with yellow highlights is probably the most popular of the three colourways, the smart money’s on the silver, as understated as that many indexes can be and gorgeous because of it.

DELMA

Cayman Worldtimer

Worldtimers and GMTs aren’t always interchangeable, but in this case the Delma Cayman Worldtimer is equipped with both a bezel indicating all 24 time zones and a 24-hour hand readable on the inner bezel. It looks like a lot of information but, thanks to the pared-back dial, it’s intuitive to read. It’s also, as the 500m on the dial hints at, a serious diving watch. Should you end up adrift on the ocean in your globe-trotting adventures, the Cayman will survive whatever you throw at it.

FRONT — £1,000 - £2,000

THE DETAILS:

42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • MB 24.33 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • montblanc.com •

MONTBLANC

1858 GMT Automatic Date

Sure, normally the GMT function of a watch uses a 24-hour hand. But who says it has to? Montblanc’s handsome, sporty take on the second time zone complication instead uses a peripheral indicator, with a red square that moves around the circumference of the dial. It’s a clean, nifty approach and one that works very well with the pared back (other than the customisable hemisphere caseback) look of the watch as a whole. It’s available in black or blue and this is one of the few times I’d opt for the black. It just shows off that tiny flash of red all the better.

FRONT —mtravel companions

£2,000 - £8,000

For the jet-setter

MING

22.01 GMT

Ming is about as hot a commodity as a microbrand can get; you’re as likely to be able to get a 2022 steel Rolex as any of their pieces – and their new GMT continues the trend of watches that everyone wants but very few will get to own. A spectacular, lumed, multi-level dial is the focal point, with a much smaller, subtler, 24-hour ring further in. It’s available in two versions – Kyoto and Gilt, with the latter being a cool, modern take on classic black and gold dials. There are only 300 of each, which, while admittedly a large batch by Ming standards, won’t go far. If you want one, get your 50% deposit down quickly.

THE DETAILS:

38mm titanium case with 100m water resistance 330.M2 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • CHF 3,250 (approx. £2,600), ming.watch •

•

TUDOR

Black Bay GMT S&G

While the Black Bay Pro may have stolen the limelight at Watches & Wonders, the new bi-colour version of the GMT version was arguably the best-looking in Tudor’s line-up. The mix of a root beer (black and brown) bezel and retro golden highlights across the bezel, dial and bracelet made for a sepia-drenched splash of retro beauty. With 200m water resistance it’s also a GMT you could, if you so wanted, wear diving, backed up by a serious movement. It’s a bit pricier on the bracelet, but it’s definitely worth the extra cash to really lean into that bi-colour cool.

THE DETAILS:

41mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance MT5652 calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £4,290, tudorwatch.com •

•

FRONT — £2,000 - £8,000

THE DETAILS:

48mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance B04 calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £7,900, breitling.com

•

BREITLING

SUPER AVI B04 CHRONOGRAPH GMT 46 CURTISS WARHAWK

The core collection version of Breitling’s good-looking AVI Ref. 765 re-issue, this chunkier, more rugged take on the aviation timepiece, complete with a solid chronograph with a particularly funky three o’clock subdial. Of the collection, the military green is the stand-out, designed in honour of the famous Curtiss Warhawk pursuit fighter. It’s a little less retro than the inspirations might suggest (the plane was flying in the 1930s) but with its minimal 12-hour bezel and tool watch vibes, there’s a lot to love in this modern take on the formula – even if it’s a bit large for some wrists.

FRONT — travel companions

OVER £8,000

When only first class will do

THE DETAILS:

•

40mm Oystersteel case with 100m water resistance • 3285 calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £8,800, rolex.com

ROLEX

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II ‘Destro’

Any steel sports Rolex is going to create a buzz, but the new left-handed version of the GMT-Master II built a next-level furor. Not only does it come with a black and green 24-hour bezel, but the movement has been rotated – and the date disc adjusted – so that the crown is on the left-hand side. It’s an odd choice, especially as there aren’t any other lefties in the collection, but it makes for an interesting addition, and one that collectors are going to go insane trying to get hold of. Like all of Rolex’s new releases it also comes with their latest generation calibre, so no matter the reason for buying it, it’s a solid watch.

BULGARI

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

The world’s thinnest movement at 3.3mm tall, Bulgari’s less-than-humble take on the GMT is a tour de force of watchmaking – this time, in steel. Honestly, that’s all that’s really new about this chronograph-equipped second time zone watch, but the monochrome look of the ultra-thin angular case is impeccably cool. Combining brushed and polished finishes and a downright incredible bracelet, it’s a welcome, more pared-back addition to the Finissimo canon. It is however one of the priciest GMTs out there. Because of course it is.

THE DETAILS:

43mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance BVL 318 calibre automatic movement with 55-hour power reserve • £15,400, bulgari.com •

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FRONT — travel companions

PARMIGIANI

Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

For the first time ever, a GMT meets a rattrapante function. Sure, it’s not the couple everyone was shipping, but the results are nonetheless exceptional. Complicated to build but intuitive to use, two hour hands sit perfectly on top of one another. At the press of a button, you can jump one hand forward an hour, while the other stays where it is, revealing the GMT under the surface. Press another button, and wherever that second time zone hand is, it will jump back directly on top of the local time hand. It’s quite simply magnificent. Parmigiani excelled with the Tonda PF; this puts it into a whole new level.

THE DETAILS:

40mm stainless steel case with 60m water resistance PF051 calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • CHF 26,000 (approx. £21,100), parmigiani.com •

•

behind the scenes

How thin can a watch get? It wasn’t that long ago that the world marvelled at the Piaget Altiplano Ultra with its 2mm thickness, finally reclaiming their ultra-thin throne from Bulgari. Then, though, the Italian jeweller-comewatchmaker fired back with a salvo that measured just 1.8mm high. It’s hard to express how spectacular an accomplishment the Octo Finissimo ULTRA genuinely is. It’s easy to dismiss it as a toy, something that doesn’t exist in the same way as other watches, but it’s a lot harder to ignore when you actually have it sitting on your wrist. It certainly doesn’t feel like a toy. Of course, the ULTRA isn’t just a record breaker; it was built to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Octo Finissimo, something that, as Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the man behind the collection, explained. “A very important celebration for us. We started the journey more than ten years ago, but today we celebrate the first that was built! It’s a collection that’s done incredibly well for us, and has sold out many times. In fact, the two limited edition pieces we released for the anniversary – of 200 pieces and 200 pieces – have already sold out.” The two pieces mentioned are, of course, the new anniversary editions of the Octo Finissimo and Octo Finissimo Chronograph, both with dials etched with Fabrizio’s initial sketches of the watches. They’re fun, inventive and, while the chronograph version doesn’t work quite as well as the time-only, it’s not hard to see why they’ve been in such high demand. Yet interesting as they are, there’s only one star of this anniversary show and it’s most finitely the Octo Finissimo ULTRA, and not just because of its ultra-thin nature, though that’s certainly most likely to grab headlines. It is however also pretty tech-savvy – as the QR code etched onto the barrel shows. “What you often see in Italian design and industrial design history is to turn a constraint into an opportunity. So, we saw that the barrel was huge, and my watch master asked what kind of finish I would like and we tried several options that were all impossible to do with the thickness. I wanted an open work barrel

Words:

Sam Kessler

Behind the scenes with:

FABRIZIO BUONAMASSA STIGLIANI

THE HEAD OF BULGARI WATCHES TALKS QR CODES, NFTS AND RECORD-BREAKING WATCHMAKING

behind the scenes

fabrizio buonamassa stigliani

The fun and inventive initial sketches by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani offer a peak into the creative process that resulted in the record-breaking ULTRA (far left), which was built to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Octo Finissimo

behind the scenes

because the watch is super light and technical. But the barrel and the glass are so close that little drops of oil could touch it. I wanted some kind of inscription (perlage and snailing would not have been in keeping with the Octo DNA) but it was impossible. So we settled on the QR code.” Obviously a QR code has to do something, and so after having the idea to use it as a barrel covering, Bulgari needed to actually build something it

would open. And so, you use your phone to read the code and you get taken into Bulgari’s digital world. “I didn’t want a metaverse watch or anything like that; the idea was to use the centuries of watchmaking know-how you can find in Switzerland to both build this ultra-light, ultra-thin watch and to enter into a digital world.” At the moment, that digital world is an impeccably presented deep dive into both the Octo Finissimo ULTRA and

Digital technology collides with an analogue watch thanks to a QR code on the barrel covering of the Octo, which when scanned takes the curious into Bulgari’s digital world

“The barrel cover was a constraint and it led to a QR code, NFT, dedicated website, Oculus experience, it’s the magic of creating” 64

Bulgari as a brand, but in the future there’s even more planned, including an owner’s club of sorts, with assets that non-owners will never see. This being today, the watch also comes with an NFT. It’s not just some randomly generated ugly cartoon, thank god, but a unique piece of art commissioned for the watch. It’s also inextricably intertwined with the physical watch. “The watch and the NFT live together,” explains Fabrizio, “which we have a patent for. You can even use an Oculus to experience the movement inside the watch. That’s what happens in the creative process, you start with an idea like the QR code on the barrel and everything streams from there. When you start you never know where you’ll finish. The barrel cover was a constraint and it led to a QR code, NFT, dedicated website, Oculus experience, it’s the magic of creating.” That’s a lot packed into a small watch – so much so that it’s tempting to say that the ULTRA has more of a digital presence than a physical one. Indeed, 1.8mm looks thin enough to snap with an errant flick of the wrist – something that Fabrizio was adamant couldn’t happen. “It needed to be wearable, of course. I said to my watchmaker, I would love to wear the watch, is it possible? Is it strong enough to wear in common life? So, we developed new processes to make sure it’s not just thin, but strong too, like the tungsten carbide backplate. That’s why I’m saying that for us, there will now be a before ULTRA and after ULTRA. We can apply everything we’ve learned here to our other models.” So, if you were expecting Bulgari’s parade of broken records to slow down any time soon, it looks like you’ll be disappointed. How the ULTRA will translate to things like minute repeaters and tourbillons only time will tell. But it’s definitely a new chapter in not just ultra-thin watchmaking, but Bulgari’s own approach to the craft. As for the ULTRA itself, it’s a rare beast you likely just won’t see in the wild. Only five of them have been built, and you can guarantee Fabrizio will be keeping one of those for himself.

Style \

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Exploring the lesser-

Wear your worldliness

sung labels bringing

on your sleeve with the

a worldly nous to our

wardrobe of a global

wardrobes

nomad

EDITED BY

SHANE C. KURUP & SAM KESSLER

95 /

A bracelet might not be an obvious accessory, but could link you with your inner rockstar

72 /

Copenhagen is the style capital of Scandinavia and now one to watch globally \

82 /

We’ve compiled a few favourite traveller’s watches to help you

New style code >—> We’re going global this issue so it’s time to look further afield than our London home for the best in men’s style. Enter Copenhagen, which thanks to a killer fashion week and Nordic labels aplenty, is becoming one of the new style capitals of the world. Of course, you’ll need some decent travel companions to get there, be that rugged Aussie footwear or a globe-trotting timepiece with one of the best traveller’s complications of the year.

Oracle Style — May.22

trot the globe in style

STYLE — style manifesto

Universal wardrobe

From Orient to Occident

>—> China has been a rich source of design inspiration for centuries and Danshan, established in 2017, is part of the new wave of burgeoning talent hailing from the nation now. Founders, Danxia Liu and Shan Peng Wong – originally from Guangzhou and Hong Kong – each lend half their names to their Londonbased brand, which reexamines established gender norms in menswear through the use of highly tactile and fluid fabrics. SS22’s collection, ‘Resurgence’ is informed by patterns found in the natural world, such as forest-inspired jacquards and ocean wave-like embroidery. Its deconstructed silky suits have a forward-thinking futurism that will have you fronting the fashion leaderboard. danshan.co.uk

Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

In our age of mass globalisation and instant connectivity, fashion is no longer a parochial affair. But beyond the big names found in shopping malls from London to Lima, there are lesser-sung but equally as noteworthy labels, bringing a worldly nous to our wardrobes, one thread at a time.

Near Eastern Promise

>—> When UAE-born Khalid Al Qasimi founded his brand in 2015, cultural amalgamation was at the top of the agenda. Now helmed by his sister, Hoor, Qasimi reimagines elements of traditional Emirati dress through a European lens. This season’s collection draws on Brutalist American architecture and Islamic geometry for its minimalist tailoring and sportswear, while fresh takes on the Kandora robe and Safeefah weaving sit alongside cagoules and shirts inspired by military camouflage mesh. You won’t want to set off on a desert expedition in this garb (it’s far too nice for starters), but you’ll feel a bit like a modern-day Lawrence catching the 242 to Hackney Central. qasimi.com

Nordic Star

>—> Whether it’s Instagram-worthy armchairs, or impossibly cool hi-fidelity tech, the Nordic nations have an unrivalled knack for modern design – and that skill extends to the wardrobe department too. Case in point: Copenhagen-based label, Samsøe Samsøe. Starting out in 1993 as a jewellery label, things shifted up a gear in 2000 when it evolved into a full-blown lifestyle brand offering a cosmopolitan take on Danish street style. The current spring summer line, entitled ‘Chasing the Sun’ blends the Scandinavian flair for minimalism with enough retro-inspired print and pattern to ensure you’re anything but a plain Johannes. samsoe.com

STYLE — style manifesto

Folk’s the Word

>—> ‘One of a kind’ is a phrase often bandied about in the fashion ether, but Emily Bode is one designer truly deserving of the accolade. The New York-based creative sources antique fabrics – like 1950s lace tablecloths and Victorian quilts – and refashions them into folksy, homespun designs that showcase historic textile crafts, such as embroidery and patchwork. While Bode’s designs are retrospective, they’re certainly not old hat – her use of bold colours and workwear elements ensures it feels current for the 21st century man. So, if a wardrobe of modern heirlooms sounds appealing, you’ll definitely want to archive some of this season’s pieces for posterity. bodenewyork.com

Call of the Outback

>—> Alongside Vegemite, Fosters and Hugh Jackman, R.M. Williams is one of Down Under’s greatest exports. The brainchild of bushman Reginald Murray Williams, it started out in 1932 supplying intrepid ranchers with leather boots and equestrian gear that could handle the rough and tumble life of the outback. The Adelaide-based label has since expanded into ready-to-wear and this year celebrates its 90th year in business. Its latest collection, ‘From the Ground Up’, is its most extensive to date and reimagines staples synonymous with the Australian heartland, from the new rigger commando boots to sporty ruggers and well-seasoned denim. Sounds proper bonza, mate. rmwilliams.com

Star-spangled Mélange

>—> American Vintage might sound like it hails from across the pond, but don’t let the name fool you: it speaks fluent Francais, albeit with a star-spangled twang. Spending his formative years travelling in the US, founder and Provence native Michael Azoulay was struck by the nation’s ease in dressing, which later informed the ethos – and name – of his Marseillebased label. But instead of just aping New World codes, Azoulay fused West Coast languor with Left Bank cool, creating a Gallic-stateside creole that meets somewhere mid-Atlantic. The SS22 collection showcases what the brand does best: breezy tees, slouchy knits and utilitarian separates that combine the best elements of Continental and Stateside design. Merci, Monsieur. americanvintage-store.com

STYLE — copen' with it

STYLE — copen’ with it

Words by

Paddy Maddison

COPEN’ WITH IT

Copenhagen has long been the style capital of Scandinavia, and now with the world’s most forwardthinking fashion week and an ever-expanding roster of homegrown talent, it’s fast becoming one of the cities to watch on the global stage too

Scandinavia is synonymous with design. From the mass-market minimalist homeware of Ikea to the aesthetically considered audio gizmos of Bang & Olufsen – if it boasts clean lines, premium materials and meticulous attention to detail, chances are there’s a Nordic designer behind it. Denmark alone is responsible for some of the most influential pieces of design of all time. The Sydney Opera House, Arne Jacobsen’s iconic chairs and the PH-lamp are all the work of the Danes, but it’s not all Australian architecture and egg chairs. More recently, Denmark’s largest city, Copenhagen, has been establishing a reputation as a rising fashion capital. The city has become a street-style hotspot, a breeding ground for coolerthan-thou contemporary menswear brands, and twice a year, fashion editors, influencers and industry tastemakers descend in droves to attend the acclaimed Copenhagen Fashion Week. Of course, it lacks the sartorial history and heritage of key fashion capitals such as Paris and New York, but with a unique sense of style and a fresh approach, Copenhagen is carving out its own place on the global fashion map. So, what makes this small coastal city one of the coolest places on Earth? “It sounds like a cliche, but the relaxed way of life here in Copenhagen and a good work/life balance definitely helps people to be more creative and make room for new ideas,” says Daniel Brøndt, co-founder and brand director of Copenhagen-based menswear label, Another Aspect. “Copenhagen is at the forefront of everyone’s minds now, where it used to be Stockholm. I think people are looking to our city for new and innovative ideas now. Copenhagen Fashion week has done a great job challenging the norm and bringing new ideas to the table. It brings the right attention to Copenhagen and makes it easy to test out ideas.” The result of a merger between former Danish clothing trade fairs, Dansk Modeuge and Dansk Herremodeuge, which date back to the 1950s,

STYLE — xxxxxxxx

STYLE — copen’ with it

Brands like Wood Wood (left) and Rains (above) will have to comply with a green three-year plan at Copenhagen Fashion Week from 2023, which aims to reduce the event’s climate impact by 50%, with zero waste as the goal for this year, while also pledging not to destroy unsold clothes, and insisting on a minimum of 50% recycled/organic textiles in all collections

Copenhagen Fashion Week was first held in 2006. Since its formation, the biannual event has been offering a platform for Scandi brands and designers to showcase their work, earning a reputation as one of the more exciting small-scale fashion weeks and garnering attention from some of the industry’s key figures in the process. But that’s not all. In recent years, Copenhagen Fashion Week has been rethinking its role. Organisers want the

“We’re witnessing the devastating impacts of climate change, so anyone in the industry needs to transition and change the way business is done” 75

event to be a catalyst for industry change and so have introduced minimum sustainability requirements that every brand must adhere to in order to be granted a show. It’s a move that aims to filter out greenwashing, and has seen Copenhagen dubbed “fashion’s sustainability capital” by Business of Fashion. Copenhagen Fashion Week will launch its new three-year plan in 2023, which will reduce the event’s climate impact by 50%, with zero waste as the goal for this year. It will also force brands to rethink the most harmful aspects of their operations, with 17 minimum requirements including pledging not to destroy unsold clothes, having a minimum of 50% recycled/organic textiles in all collections, and only using environmentally friendly packaging. “We wanted to develop a framework that considers all aspects of the value chain as a company,” CEO Cecile Thorsmark told Business of Fashion. “You could get a high score, but be lacking in one area such as working conditions — that's what motivated us to add minimum standards. “We need to rethink and reinvent the role of fashion weeks. We’re already witnessing the devastating impacts of climate change, so anyone in the industry needs to transition and change the way business is done and do this urgently. Fashion weeks are no exception.” Naturally, where there is a fashion week, there is street style – something that Copenhagen has become famous for. Photographers like Søren Jepsen and Jason Jean have amassed huge followings by capturing and documenting the dressing habits of the city’s coolest inhabitants, feeding them back to the rest of the world via social media. Street style from the Danish capital is now a significant influence on global trends. The aesthetic is stripped-back, casual, clean and often colourful. It tends to be more playful than Swedish style and less driven by functionality than in Norway.

STYLE — copen' with it

STYLE — xxxxxxx

STYLE — copen’ with it

In addition to being built on a bedrock of minimalism, one thing that unites Danish fashion with that of its Scandi neighbours is the idea of quality over quantity. Simple, well-made pieces will always trump cheap, trend-driven tat, and the Danes know that better than anyone. This approach can be seen clearly in many of Copenhagen’s homegrown brands. None more so, arguably, than ultra-hip contemporary menswear label Norse Projects. “Our collections have always been very much reflective of Nordic design, says Rhys Kearns, brand creative producer at

“Denmark has shaped how we make clothing, so that it adapts seamlessly to our surroundings whether indoors or out” Norse Projects (above and left) and Han Kjøbenhavn (below) are both at the tip a wave of modern menswear that has washed over Copenhagen in recent decades with a focus on simple, well-made pieces

Norse Projects. “Clean lines, soft colours, small pops of print and a subtle visual language – similar to how the Danes approach furniture and interior design. In this sense, I think Denmark has shaped how we make clothing, so that it adapts seamlessly to our surroundings whether indoors or out.” Going strong since 2004, Norse Projects may be one of the most established labels in Copenhagen’s contemporary menswear scene, but it’s far from alone. Over the course of the last two decades, a wave of modern menswear has washed over the city, spilling out of Denmark and onto the shelves of the world’s most exclusive and respected retailers. Head to your nearest men’s fashion outlet, the one staffed by a troop of intimidatingly cool twentysomethings in New Balance trainers and Carhartt pants, and you’ll find rails lined with Danish labels such as Soulland, Wood Wood, NN07, Rains and Han Kjøbenhavn – each distinctly different in its own way, but all unmistakably Copenhagen. “Denmark, and Copenhagen in particular, is quite small,” Kearns tells Oracle Time. “With a population of roughly five million people, I think the door is open for young, up-and-coming designers to make a name for themselves. The competition here is a little more even than what one might encounter starting a brand somewhere like New York or London, for example.” This, coupled with the relaxed way of life touched upon by Another Aspect’s Daniel Brøndt, and Denmark’s design history, has provided fertile ground for fashion in the capital and helped to cement Copenhagen as one of the coolest cities in the world. “There’s a prevalent history of design that permeates through Danish society,” This history, ingrained in local culture, creates an awareness and appreciation for good design, whether that is in fashion, lighting, furniture or architecture – here, it is all encouraged.”

Longines Spirit Zulu Time • 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • L844.4 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • £2,400, longines.com

Photography by TOM PETTIT & FRASER VINCENT

WORLD CLASS

Whether you’re heading across the Great Planes, hiking up a hillside, or meeting friends at a restaurant, there’s one companion that any intrepid traveller shouldn’t be without and that’s a trusty timepiece. That’s why we’ve compiled a few favourite traveller’s watches, either with a GMT function or a Worldtimer, to ensure that your sartorial sophistication doesn’t slip as you trot across the globe

STYLE — shoot

Christopher Ward C65 Aquitaine GMT • 41mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Sellita SW330-2 calibre automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve • £1,250, • christopherward.com

STYLE — shoot

Hermes Arceau le Temps Voyageur • 38mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • H1837 calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £17,400, hermes.com

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Bell & Ross BR-05 GMT • 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • BR-CAL.325 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £4,700, bellross.com

STYLE — shoot

TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT • 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Calibre 7 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £3,500, tagheuer.com

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Seiko Presage Sharp-Edged GMT Zero Halliburton • 42.2mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • 6R64 calibre automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve • £1,380, limited to 600 pieces, seikoboutique.co.uk

STYLE — shoot

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 GMT • 41mm high-intensity titanium case with 100m water resistance • 9R66 calibre spring drive movement with 72-hour power reserve • £7,290, seikoboutique.co.uk

STYLE — shoot

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time • 41mm white gold case with 30m water resistance • 31 260 PS QA LU FUS 24H calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £59,200, patek.com

STYLE — shoot

Bulgari Octo Roma Worldtimer • 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • BVL257 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £7,100, bulgari.com

STYLE — shoot

Farer Lander IV • 39.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • SELLITA SW330-2 ‘Top Grade’ automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve • £1,190, farer.com

STYLE — kit bag

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Culture trip Wear your worldliness on your sleeve with the wardrobe of a global nomad Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

1/ Thierry Lasry Klassy D-frame sunglasses, £375, thierrylasry.com 2/ Acne Studios Barcelo shell-embellished leather sandals, £420, acnestudios.com 3/ Alanui Icon cashmere-blend jacquard cardigan, £1,935, mrporter.com 4/ Harago Kantha embroidered trousers, £315, matchesfashion.com 5/ Tateossian Imperial Roman glass, macramé and sterling silver bracelet, £229 tateossian.com 6/ Isabel Marant Haleyh Ikat bucket hat, £150, matchesfashion.com 7/ Nanushka Naz embroidered cotton shirt, £445, brownsfashion.com 8/ Scotch & Soda x Studio 189 ‘Born to Love’ tote bag, £160, scotchsoda.com 9/ Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck world timer, £65,790, ulysse-nardin.com

STYLE — stacking the deck

TATEOSSIAN CARBON POP BRACELET

> > > Have a cutting-edge piece of automotiveinspired watchmaking strapped to your wrist? Echo that performance style with this impeccably cool number from British heritage brand Tateossian. The textured blue leather braid is already stylish enough, but add in a black carbon fibre panel and you have something that has both the high-tech material of a monocoque racer and the luxurious leather of high-end upholstery. Pair with something dark, brooding and, of course, carbon fibre won’t steer you wrong. £179, tateossian.com

Words by SAM KESSLER

STACKING THE DECK A bracelet isn’t the most obvious accessory, but it could link you and your inner rockstar

>—> If you’re among the many guys that think a watch is the only piece of jewellery you need, you may be limiting yourself more than you know. Sure, you might accessorise with a signet or wedding ring, but when it comes to bracelets you’ll likely steer clear. Which you most certainly should not. And we don’t mean a bracelet on your other wrist either; stacking a precious metal loop with your watch not only adds a flash of rockstar cool to your outfit, but can work to set off your timepiece perfectly. So, whether you’re after something casual to match your everyday beater or a show piece to match any haute horological masterpiece, here are a trio of the best men’s bracelets to stack with your timepiece.

Pair with something dark, brooding and, of course, carbon fibre won’t steer you wrong

STYLE — stacking the deck

GEORG JENSEN MEN’S CLASSIC BANGLE

> > > If you prefer your timepieces with Moser & Cie levels of minimalism, you’ll want to opt for something equally sleek and streamlined. Enter Georg Jensen, purveyors of Danish silverware with an emphasis on flowing forms and pared-back cool. This particular bracelet embodies that perfectly, with a fluid, tapering shape and simple yet exceptional finish. On the underside there’s also a gold insert, though don’t worry about looking flashy – only the wearer knows its even there. And anyone that’s read this article, of course. £375, georgjensen.com

Enter Georg Jensen, purveyors of Danish silverware with an emphasis on flowing forms and pared-back cool

FOPE EKA FLEX’IT BRACELET

> > > The overdue men’s collection from Italian innovators Fope was well worth the wait. Made from Fope’s Flex’it, the flexible, braided gold the jeweller’s known for, it’s incredibly comfortable on the wrist. To add a bit of masculine glamour, it’s also finished with a ring of black diamonds, adding a striking contrast in both texture and colour to the piece. Stack with something in the same gold to match or pair with something expensive in steel for an eye-catching contrast. Either way, you won’t regret it. From €5,570, fope.com

hands-on reviews

VACHERON 222 HISTORIQUES Possibly the most sure-fire bet for any historical edition has finally re-arrived

THE SPECS • 37mm yellow gold case with 50m water resistance • 2455/2 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • vacheron-constantin.com

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Well, it finally happened. After years of will-they-won’t-they tension and a less-than-slow burn on the pre-owned market proving there was a 1970s-shaped hole in the watch world, Vacheron Constantin have done what we all knew they would do (but secretly dreaded they wouldn’t) and re-issued the legendary 222. I won’t wax lyrical too long on the history of the piece, but the TL; DR goes like this. Back in 1977, Vacheron was turning the grand old age of 222 years old and they needed a centrepiece design to mark the occasion. Two years earlier, they’d tried to throw their hat into the sports luxe ring against the then-new Royal Oak and Nautilus, but couldn’t quite make their mark, and so repurposed the newly rounded bones of what was the 2215 Royal Chronometer into the anniversary-honouring 222. This time, they nailed it. Flash forward to today and the 222’s aged magnificently. Not only is its DNA alive and well in the Overseas collection, the integrated bracelet, and notched bezel, but the overall sports luxe look that defined it is about as relevant now as it’s ever been. Needless to say, it’s a revival we’ve all been expecting. Is it worth the anticipation? Yes. Yes it is. Vacheron have been very true to the original piece, with it’s ‘jumbo’ 37mm case and famous bezel, somewhere between notched and fluted. These days they could have been excused for upsizing just a touch but not by me and most lovers of the original. The case also shows off the Maltese cross at five o’clock, which is honestly an artefact I’m not too sure about. It’s nicely done, the white gold logo soldered directly onto the case, but it’s one of the few qualms I ever had with the 1977 piece and an aesthetic change I’d have easily forgiven. Possibly the most important aspect Vacheron have kept intact however – and quite possibly the loveliest part of the entire watch – is the bracelet. The jewel-shaped hexagonal links are beautiful, and not just in a quirky retro way. They’re just objectively phenomenal, both visually and on the wrist. Sure, it’s a little more refined and classical than the legendarily cool Royal Oak bracelet, but it can easily go toe-to-toe with its Genta-designed precursor. If anything, the Historiques version of the bracelet is even better than the original. Vacheron have upped the finishing, with vertical satin-brushing. The joins between the links have been changed ever-so-slightly too, hiding the pins better and generally making it feel a bit more solid and comfortable on the wrist. It also has a new clasp, but I can’t say I noticed the change all that much. There are also much bigger changes internally. This is a modern watch so a contemporary calibre is a must, namely the Calibre 2455/2. Its 40-hour power reserve could be better at this price point (it’s not cheap, as we’ll get on to), but otherwise it’s a stunner because yes, this version of the 222 has an open caseback. I’m sure some collectors will mind that; I do not. It’s a pretty sight. The new movement does have another subtle effect: it moves the date window in a little bit from the edge of the dial. It makes it a touch more readable, though if Vacheron were going to move it I’d just as soon do without entirely.

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The jewel-shaped hexagonal links are beautiful, and not just in a quirky retro way. They’re just objectively phenomenal, both visually and on the wrist The date window has a dial-matched background so it’s at least subtle, but when given the choice I’d always drop the date on an otherwise time-only timepiece. The dial itself is pure retro loveliness. It’s matte, so it has that monochrome 70s charm and matches the particular yellow gold of case and bracelet flawlessly. There’s a subtle contrast with the polished indexes – Vacheron’s ‘Anatomy of Beauty’ (a concerted effort to point out their attention to detail) on full display - that I love. Minor gripes aside, there’s only one aspect of the Historiques 222 that I have a problem with: it’s gold. There’s precedent for a full gold 222 of course and there’s no denying that it’s an absolute stunner, but after all this waiting I was really hoping to get my hands on a revamp of that original steel model. It’s still a possibility of course. When asked, the party line from the brand is a frustratingly ambiguous ‘who knows?’ They’d be missing a trick if they didn’t, even if it happened to be a limited edition. I mean, that would frustrate me a little, but it would be understandable. And saleable. So yeah, long overdue as the 222 may be for a revival, it’s arrived, and my only substantial gripe is about what it’s not. Would I buy one in gold? If I had the 57K to put down for it, definitely. But I’d probably hold off at least a little while longer until I’m sure that a steel edition isn’t imminent. And perhaps more importantly, that I could actually get one. vacheron-constantin.com Available exclusively from Vacheron Boutiques

hands-on reviews

THE SPECS • 39mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • MT5652 calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • From £2,840, tudorwatch.com

TUDOR BLACK BAY PRO Is Tudor’s Fixed Bezel Riff on the Explorer II their coolest release of the year?

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How many times have you heard Tudor described in terms of Rolex? A more affordable version of; a cooler take on; an accessible alternative to the Watch with the Crown? Most of the time it’s unfair, given the Black Bay shaped niche the watchmaker has carved out for themselves, but every now and then it’s hard to ignore. For every time they extricate themselves from the oppressively crown-shaped shadow of Big Daddy Rolex, there’s another they show just how comfortable they are there. So it is with the Black Bay Pro. Now, I’m not saying that taking cues from the most successful watch company in history is a bad thing. If anyone can pull it off without sighs of exasperation (I’m looking at you, Omega), it’s Tudor. So, when I say that the Black Bay Pro is, to all intents and purposes, Tudor’s answer to the Explorer II, I sincerely mean that with all the horological love in the world. Granted, when I first heard the name, I expected something bigger, badder and machined like a Cold War submarine, something closer to the Pelagos perhaps. Instead, what we got is something more spiritually akin to the much-missed North Flag – and it’s a low-key sporty beauty. Yes, from the front it very much looks like an Explorer II – more specifically a 1655 – in both the proportions of the 39mm stainless steel case and that distinctive fixed 24-hour bezel. It’s not a subtle nod, more modern reinterpretation and I’m here for it. After all, I preferred Tudor’s take on the GMT-Master II and, honestly, I’d probably say the same here. Not that there aren’t plenty of differences. In fact, surfacelevel comparisons aside, there’s a lot going on with the Black Bay Pro that’s all its own. For one, the silhouette feels a lot different thanks to the Black Bay’s large crown, sand crown guards. It actually looks fantastic with that steel 24-hour bezel. Retro rather than rugged. The dial too is pure Tudor. The snowflake hour hand is representing in full force along with a pair of similarlyrhomboid second and GMT hands – the latter in a bright, high-contrast yellow. It’s also slightly domed and in matte black is very much in line with previous Black Bay models. The result is a watch that’s definitely sporty, definitely a practical, wearable everyday watch, but a good deal more subtle than a pure diver or, really, anything that you might previously have expected ‘pro’ to append. The same goes for its charms on the wrist. Not only is it that 39mm sweet spot, but it’s actually slimmer than the Black Bay GMT (the newest S&G version of which, incidentally, is an absolute stunner) so sits more elegantly on my tiny wrist. The fact that it has similar functionality – minus a time zone – makes the Pro a more understated alternative. Speaking of the GMT, the Pro uses the exact same movement: namely the MT5652, with a welcome 70-hour power reserve. It’s COSC-certified (no expansion of METAS here) and offers an ever-useful jumping hour. It just uses the calibre in a slightly different format. The Pro is available on three different strap options in line with other Tudor offerings. There’s the standard stainlesssteel bracelet, a hybrid rubber number and the same cool, striped fabric strap as other recent releases. The rubber’s

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The result is a watch that’s definitely sporty, definitely a practical, wearable everyday watch, but a good deal more subtle than a pure diver lovely and looks great, the fabric feels fantastic on the wrist but always feels a touch thin for safety’s sake, while the bracelet is… pretty standard. Solid, but standard. I’d likely find myself going for the hybrid as default, though only because the Black Bay Pro doesn’t come on a classic NATO. Fortunately, I have a watch box full of the things. The Black Bay Pro is a damn fine watch. The fact that it’s also at a damn fine price – £3,080 on the bracelet, under £3,000 for the other options – will make it a no-brainer for most Tudor lovers. Personally, I’d pay a touch more for the sepia-tinted Black Bay GMT S&G, but there’s no denying that the Pro has knocked it out the park, even in the ever-crowded pool of dual timezone watches. Sure, it shares plenty of Rolex DNA, but when has that ever been a bad thing? From £2,840, tudorwatch.com

hands-on reviews

SCHOFIELD TREASURE A golden beater with aspirations of buried treasure to make 10 years of quirky British watch design

THE SPECS • 44mm gold-plated brass case with 100m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £3,480, limited to 29 pieces, schofieldwatchcompany.com

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hands-on reviews

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Schofield’s always been an odd duck in that brilliant, undefinable way that only a designer with little to no background in watchmaking can be. Not that Giles Ellis is new to the business; the brand’s been going strong for just over a decade now, right at the beginning of the revival in British watches that they were very much a part of. But Giles has never really been a watch designer. It’s why, for better or worse, there’s nothing quite like a Scofield watch. Now, I’ve been a fan of what Schofield have been doing for a long time. All the rugged, lighthouse inspired design choices, the intriguing materials, the incredible ring of lume around the dial of some pieces, but never enough to buy one. Their dimensions are… well, a bit off for me. They suit a certain kind of person – the kind that would rather be working in their garage than binging Netflix – but I’m always ready to give a watch a go, especially when it’s called the Treasure Watch. Gold isn’t a material I’d expect from Schofield. It’s far too luxurious, far too delicate as a material to warrant their beater style. But I have to admit, it does suit them, especially as it’s not actually lost any of its rough-and-ready, quirky credentials. The gold here is plated rather than solid, which isn’t a surprise when we’re talking the low thousands price range. What’s more interesting though is that it’s over brass, which is also golden in colour. So when the plating inevitably scratches or wears through, it should start to look like its gaining a patina, a rarity for gold. Obviously I didn’t have the watch long enough to notice any patina-ing and I’m careful not to scratch pieces we get in, but it’s a nice thought and one that gels with the Schofield ethos. Colourwise though its still very much yellow; no hint of the Fears Midas colouring here. The dial and case shape both hark back to the original 2011 Signalman, Giles’ first watch. And while none of their watches exactly stray far from those aesthetic tenets, it makes for a nice throwback. It’s certainly the most straightforward design in Schofield’s line-up right now (the fewer times I have to say ‘strange lights not quite red’ the better). But it’s still got plenty of character, particularly as the second hand is just the counterweight. It’s more a running indicator than it is a true seconds hand. I like it. A lot. But while the front is straightforward, the caseback is not. Schofield often go to town on their casebacks with funky engravings, but the multi-level design with a gold cross running through it is next-level. It represents one of the UK’s most famous treasure hordes, with each caseback an ode to a different one, in this case Sutton Hoo, which was home to a ship burial stuffed with ancient Saxon artifacts. Funnily enough, even the movement is gold-plated, though you can’t see it. Schofield really took the buried treasure theme and ran with it. The calibre in question is the ETA 2824 and the solid workhorse is a fitting movement for the Treasure Watch.

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The design choices, both quirky and sensible are the kinds of things you’ll only find on a Schofield watch, a level of individuality that a lot of brands lack So, did it convert me? Honestly, yes. Still not enough to take the plunge – there are a good many more watches out there on my wishlist ahead of it – but I genuinely enjoyed this big hunk of goldplated brass on my wrist. Its depth gives it a lot of heft without actually being heavy and as a casual watch (despite what the gold suggests its’ still very much a daily wearer) it’s incredibly satisfying. The design choices, both quirky and sensible are the kinds of things you’ll only find on a Schofield watch, a level of individuality that a lot of brands lack, especially in this highly competitive 3K+ price range. Yes, it’s an investment for a beater, but if I were going to buy a Schofield it would be this one. £3,480, limited to 29 pieces, schofieldwatchcompany.com

japanese watchmaking

WORDS: JUTIN HAST

THE GREAT WAVE OF JAPANESE WATCHMAKING

With an obsessive attention to detail and a drive to produce the finest watches imaginable, it’s about time Japanese watchmaking got the attention it so very much deserves

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japanese watchmaking

Netflix recommendations from friends are a fascinating thing. We get more and more of them than ever before but trust fewer and fewer. It’s that quick assessment, often conducted after the recommendation, away from view of the friend where we balance off the individual and their tastes, the subject matter and of course the diary. I recently had one such recommendation from a trusted source. It was called Giro Dreams of Sushi. The documentary is the story 85-year-old sushi master Jiro Ono, his renowned Tokyo restaurant, and his relationship with his son and eventual heir, Yoshikazu. Jiro Ono's 10-seat restaurant located in a Tokyo subway station attracts visitors from around the globe, doesn’t take reservations and prioritises locals over tourists. While this in of itself is interesting, the real story is that Giro, like some many in Japan >—————>

is deeply proud of his craft. No matter how many years his son spent under his guidance, it seemed he would never reach the required standards to make sushi under the family name. Deep, deep in the Japanese psyche, there is a switch, a switch very few around the world possess, where not only is everything, including rolling rice, seen as an art form, but pursuits of this kind should become lifetime fixations. In short – it was a great recommendation. We now see Japan boasting some of the leading craftsman in the world of tailoring, cobbling and of course watchmaking. In this piece I will cover six Japanese watchmakers that we should all know more about. First up, the big boy: Seiko. Now, I have to confess, the first three in the line-up are actually Seiko owned companies – but all producing very different products, at different price points and very much driven to outdo each other internally. Let’s get into it.

SEIKO Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori was only 21 years old when he opened the K. Hattori watch and clock shop in Tokyo’s Kyobashi district and began building and repairing watches and clocks. He was only 31 when he partnered with an engineer named Tsuruhiko Yoshikawa to set up the Seikosha watch factory in 1892, forerunner of today’s Seiko. After several years of producing high-quality wall clocks, Seikosha released its first pocketwatch, called simply the Timekeeper, in 1895. In 1969, Seiko beat Zenith, Breitling and Heuer to market with the world’s first automatic chronograph watch, the Seiko 5 Sports Speed Timer. It was also behind Japan’s first serious divers’ watch, the much-loved 62MAS, a timepiece that precedes generations of classic, affordable Seiko dive watches like the iconic Seiko SKX007. In short - Seiko has gone onto to be a household name and a juggernaut of the sub £3k category around the world.

Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori (above) was behind the creation of the world’s first automatic chronograph watch, the Seiko 5 Sports Speed Timer, and its influence can be seen in the latest version of the original model

In 1969, Seiko beat Zenith, Breitling and Heuer to market with the world’s first automatic chronograph 111

japanese watchmaking

GRAND SEIKO Grand Seiko is a top tier brand of its own. Operating in the plus £5k category – and very much a different breed of finish to Seiko. It was created in 1960 by Daini Seikosha and Suwa Seikosha, which were two subsidiaries of the Seiko corporation. They wanted to create a line of watches that could compete with the Swiss watchmakers. The first watch that Seiko created to be “the best in the world” in terms of accuracy and precision. The watch had a gold-filled case, 34.9 mm in diameter and 10 mm thick. Each Grand Seiko watch was certified with an original standard of precision that Seiko established (and which, today, is stricter in its criteria than even the Swiss agency COSC‘s standard). The watch, with its clean dial, long hands and applied indices, established the design codes that we know and love. Today, Grand Seiko is on the rise – with collectors going nuts for its dials inspired by nature and classic proportions.

A measure of the high standards at Grand Seiko is reflected in the fact that their in-house measurement of precision is stricter in its criteria than even the Swiss agency COSC‘s standard

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The three stars found at the top of the logo represent the three main tenets of Credor; to create original designs, a focus on technology through the realisation of precise manufacturing, and handing down the heritage of more than 130 years of artisanal craftsmanship and watchmaking skills

The logo is meant to embody a mountain, which represents the peak or top of watchmaking CREDOR Credor is a maker that keeps me up at night. Pure understated elegance with top level finishing, which some say is better than even Patek. The name Credor comes from the French 'Créte d’Or', meaning 'the ultimate of the gold' and it was founded in 1974. Credor timepieces combine Seiko’s traditional craftsmanship with contemporary and high-end technology, leveraging more than 100 years of watchmaking knowhow between the Seiko brands. The Credor name and 'Golden Peak' logo were eventually put on the dial instead of the Seiko logo mark beginning in 1980. The logo is meant to embody a mountain, which represents the peak or top of watchmaking. The three stars found at the top of the logo are representative of the three main tenets of Credor. Firstly, to create original designs that take advantage of Japanese sensitivity and aesthetic sense such as delicacy, precision and attention. Secondly, technology through the realisation of precise manufacturing, which makes full use of cutting-edge and advanced design and manufacturing technologies. Lastly, handing down the pinnacle of artisanal craftsmanship and watchmaking skills cultivated in Seiko’s history of more than 130 years.

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HAJIME ASAOKA

Hajime Asaoka (right) is a self-taught watchmaker who works slowly, meticulously, and with a pure focus on the end result

Hajime Asaoka is arguably the leading name in independent Japanese watchmaking. He is a product designer from Kanagawa, educated at the Tokyo University of the Arts, but not as a watchmaker. Learning from the George Daniels book and Youtube tutorials with machines bought from eBay, Asaokasan’s story is rather impressive, even with the well-known Japanese selfdiscipline. It took him a mere four years to develop an in-house tourbillon. Let me repeat that. Four years to develop an in-house tourby! He works in his small workshop in his home in Tokyo, filled with European lathes and machines. He works slowly, meticulously, and with a pure focus on the end result. This has resulted in a small portfolio of references that span the skeletonized beauty of his chronograph, to Art Deco chic. I love the non-conformity of his style language, with deep roots in the 1940s and 50s. His is a strong and indefinable Japanese dialect that simply underlines the allure of Japanese horology. They are however a little pricey… which brings me to the next brand.

KURONO If you spend any time at all on social media – you will have no doubt seen watches from Kurono. Its coloured dials, elegant sizing and limited drops have sent the collector community into a frenzy of Japanese independent watchmaking love. But who are they? Well, Hajime Asaoka-sensei started his watchmaking journey in 1997, throwing in his unique perspective of refinement and modernity and establishing a watchmaking philosophy that is distinctively Japanese. Essentially, Kurono is Asaoka's attempt to bring that philosophy to a much more accessible level.

His work is beautiful and approachable – but good luck getting your hands on one

Kurono combines masterfully timed releases (the watch is available to order for 10 minutes, and anyone who places an order in that window gets a watch) and more traditional limited edition releases, which involve a mad rush to order as fast as possible beginning at a

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global on-sale time. The latest is the Chronograph II White ‘Shiro’, but honestly there’s not a watch in the Kurono collection that’s not an absolute stunner. His work is beautiful and approachable – but good luck getting your hands on one.

japanese watchmaking

NAOYA HIDA & CO Last but not least, and maybe my personal favourite from the line up Naoya Hida & Co. The company was founded in 2018 by Mr Naoya Hida, and has followed a strict principle; offer high-end watches in very limited numbers, with a consistent design. Mr Naoya Hida served as a representative for F.P. Journe and Ralph Lauren’s watches and jewellery, so he knows a thing or two about high-end watchmaking. Later, in 2020, master watchmaker Mr Kosuke Fujita joined the company and is in charge of watch design and assembly. Mr Kusoke Fujita graduated from the Hiko-Mizuno Watchmaking School in Tokyo in 2002

Naoya Hida’s work follows a strict principle to offer high-end watches in very limited numbers with a consistent design, which has proved popular among fans of refined independent watchmaking

The design language of the brand focuses on bringing back the elegant and refined watches from the 1930s and 1940s

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and is WOSTEP-certified as a first-class watch repair technician. He has experience working at the Seiko Time Lab (former Seiko Service Centre) and F.P. Journe as well, before joining Naoya Hida & Co. The design language of the brand focuses on bringing back the elegant and refined watches from the 1930s and 1940s. There’s an undeniable Patek Phillipe Calatrava flair, with a similar style. In short – his work is simple – perfection. No screaming and shouting – just quite class. It’s fair to say, we are experience a meteoric rise in interest across the board for independent watchmaking. But specifically, Japanese. Why is this? Well, a number of factors, there is undoubtably a general love of all thing Japanese and made by hand. But also the obsessive finishing, classic design and shift of both long-term collectors and those new to watches hungry to support the person whose name is on the dial. Long may it continue.

CULTURE — food & drink

>—>

>—> >—> >—> This month’s restaurant and bar news is a great mixture of home grown locals and inspiring international cuisine. Menus inspired by Japan, New York and France sit side by side with seasonal produce from right here in the UK. If you’re lucky enough to visit just one of these eateries, make sure it’s Amethyst.

EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS

↑ BRIX

London Bridge A short walk from Borough Market you’ll find the new industrial-chic restaurant and late-night basement bar, Brix. It’s a fusion of two major cities, bringing the flavours of New York and Brooklyn to London’s scene. The menu includes plates like the Badboi Burger, Oxtail Doughnuts, Lobster and Chips, Surf ‘n’ Turf, Pan Fried Pollock, Yoghurt Marinated Rack of Lamb, and Lobster and Monterey Jack Mac n Cheese. Delicious twists on traditional comfort food. Open now, learn more at brixldn.com

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CULTURE — food & drink

← AMETHYST Mayfair

Carlo Scotto’s resume is beyond impressive, having worked in exceptional kitchens the world over from Japan to Sweden and France, as well as at Xier in Marylebone as head-chef. Now he’s opening his own restaurant in Mayfair he has the perfect canvas for his culinary delights. It promises to be an intimate affair with just 36 covers across two levels. Plus, the ground floor features just a single table – custom made from amethyst and quartz – that seats 20 diners. As for what to expect from the food, there’s a choice of six or 12-course set menus with accompanying wines, all drawing on Carlo’s vast experience and seasonally available produce. Reservations available from amethystdining.com

Now he’s opening his own restaurant he has the perfect canvas for his culinary delights ← THE BLACK SHEEP

During the week it’s a simple brasserie and at weekends it transforms into a dining destination

Wimbledon

The Gladwin Brothers and their local and wild concept are already responsible for some of the most interesting restaurants around, including The Fat Badger and The Shed. Their latest venture, The Black Sheep, is taking over from beloved Wimbledon site The White Onion. As with their previous restaurants, The Black Sheep is set to focus on their signature farm-to-fork style of cooking with local suppliers and an emphasis on high-welfare hand-reared meat from the Gladwin farm. A new spot for tennis players perhaps. Keep up to date at theblacksheep-restaurant.com

↑ REVOLVE

Broadgate Circle The concept of having rotating chef residencies at a single restaurant is an increasingly popular one, with sites like Carousel helping boost its notoriety. The latest such concept is Revolve at 100 Liverpool Street. During the week it’s a simple and accomplished brasserie for those working in the city and at weekends it transforms into a dining destination. This means there will be a revolving menu every month, as top names in the industry bring their own flair to the restaurant, making it worth visiting time and time again. Learn more at revolve.london

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CULTURE — food & drink

The name of the Regency diner is changing and the menu is being made as grandiose as the giant chandeliers that dominate the space

← THE LANESBOROUGH GRILL Belgravia

Hotel dining doesn’t always have the best reputation, but one man on a mission to change that is Shay Cooper. He’s already taken the restaurant at The Goring and earned it a Michelin star, and his next challenge is reinvigorating Celeste at The Lanesborough. First off, the name of the Regency diner is changing to The Lanesborough Grill and the menu is being made as grandiose as the giant chandeliers that dominate the space. Coronation crab salad, poached lobster and Hereford beef tartare are just some highlights. Find out more at oetkercollection.com

↓ THE BARING Islington

The secret to amazing London pub gastronomy has changed over the years and in 2022 the essentials are a seasonal menu with low environmental impact. It’s these elements that form the cornerstone of the new Islington restaurant, The Baring. With a menu set to include dishes such as smoked eel and pig’s head terrine, quail shish and grilled lamb rump, this is pub food at its best. That’s to be expected considering the team behind The Baring have five top-end eateries on their CVs. Find out more at thebaring.co.uk

↑ ANGELO MUSA AT HARRODS Knightsbridge

With a menu set to include quail shish and grilled lamb rump, this is pub food at its best 119

In March we were talking about Cedric Grolet’s landmark decision to leave France and set up his patisserie at The Berkeley, and now a fellow titan of French cuisine is following him. This time it’s Angelo Musa who’s heading to Harrods for his take on traditional patisserie. Angelo is a multi-award winning pastry master, known for his signature Papilo motif; as delicate and beautiful as a butterfly. Just a glimpse of his work is sure to leave you drooling. It’s definitely doing things to me. More details at harrods.com

CULTURE — exceptional wines

Words: Rob Bellinger

AROUND THE WORLD IN FIVE EXCEPTIONAL WINES There is nothing more global than the world of wines and spirits. In style, brand and classification, drinks have the power to raise a flag, give a sense of national identity and promote their respective countries in just one mouthful. However, with new approaches and changing climate, the lines are fast becoming blurred leading to some exciting variations in reality, perception and taste

>———> Traditionally and historically vines have been grown between 28° and 50° of latitude, proving their ability to straddle continents and thrive. The more well known ‘agricultural pleasers’ arrived in northern Europe with the Romans and certain key varieties via The Crusades; in both cases, they often arrived rather cruelly via saddle bag as a bunch of dried withered sticks. The latter seemingly insignificant ‘souvenirs’ or spoils of war, in many cases, have then gone on to dictate a key part of a country’s wealth and also the style of the wines produced. Vineyards now face many extreme weather conditions and locations due to global weather pattern changes. These range from the leaf blisteringly hot Khamsin winds in Lebanon and the 26° temperature swings; to the now -10C frosts in Champagne and Burgundy. The ‘Greta’ factor has now also resulted in commercially viable wines being grown from 61.2° latitude by Bjorn Bergum in Norway (with his Fjord red and white wines), reaching down to 4° in Kenya. At the Morendat vineyard in the Rift Valley, 80 men are employed full time to scare off attacking birds and monkeys which would devour the harvest otherwise. With bigger wine and spirits companies often having holdings in several countries the ‘flying winemakers/distillers’ are now commonplace. They cross the world, bringing to bear their experience and insightful approaches to new continents. This results in both new wines and old names presented through a fresh set of skills and eyes. These drinks heroes often revel in the ability to work unconstrained by tight rules over bottles, closures, pruning, viticulture and use of maturing mediums. This has led to Burgundian practices forging a revolution in whisky, being used in southern California, and in Japan, with famous French winemakers turning their hands to saki. In many cases, wines of this type are often so well priced that their cost masks their quality and the pedigree behind them. This is because they have been set in many cases at local market consumption

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prices initially. Naturally, there are individual paradoxes that exist, particularly where you have a ‘star’ local winemaker with an international reputation and clientele. Daylight is undoubtedly dawning in ‘the old world’ and some winemakers are giving up the occasionally restrictive handcuffs to make new exciting wines on long-held terroir. This may mean settling for a lower classification such as ‘vin de table’ rather than ‘appellation d’ origine controlée’ and then educating their enthusiasts and clients on their production methods and rationale, as the route to the price point they quite rightly demand. Where the vines geographically falter, spirits rule both the palate and the local market. Those distillates for export are often above the quality of the indigenously consumed offerings. I can’t help at this point think of some of those local herb-infused concoctions we have all encountered on holiday. I still shudder at the thought of a ski resort shot laden with an amaro from the Alps called Braulio! Distillation is ultimately dictated and enhanced by the quality of the water source available, as well as the other base ingredients such as grain, rice or fruit/vegetables being brought in as the fermentation medium of choice. The hands then conducting these elements have a massive part to play in achieving balance and unique flavours. New, untraditional distillery locations and inspired spirit makers have in recent times been disturbing more conventional viewpoints and valuations. The pathfinders have literally turned over the cask and looked at approaches more akin to cognac making, thereby softening and enhancing flavour profiles. The result of this are more approachable, diverse and collectable limited releases. These interesting reboots of more traditionally age led, or slightly daunting drinks are infinitely more interesting than their forebears. You find these openly celebrated, shared, drunk and enjoyed. After all we have been through in recent times, the consensus is that

CULTURE — exceptional wines

quality wines and spirits are for consuming, rather than being left to gather dust indefinitely and await some hushed tone appraisal in a dark cellar. In the new drinks world, forget greed Mr Gecko, Global is good.

CHATEAU MUSAR 2016 BEKKAR VALLEY, LEBANON Hand-picked by bedouins at 3,000 feet above sea level, the grapes for this global big hitter are matured in an 18th-century castle overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. This is a soft, full, round but accessible red wine. After spending the six months from harvest in vats, the wines are then aged for around 12 months in the finest French Oak barrels from Nevers. The key skill of winemaker Tarek Sakr is then in blending the three base wines of cabernet sauvignon, consult and carignan in equal proportions, before bottling at the end of the third year. The final blend is then aged for three to four years, before being released in its seventh year. Deep ruby in colour this is a viscous wine that swirls around the glass, almost menacingly hinting at its power. Red cherries, plums and Levatine figs ooze into your nostrils with just a hint of Eastern spices. Cherry liqueur and roasted plums push onto the tongue with a wash of blackcurrant and dark chocolate. However, this is a wine with great softness, depth, bags of fruit and a long finish. This is a very versatile glass that can cheerfully escort you through spicy Levantine food, but is also an absolute crowd pleaser with roasts (particularly slow-roasted spring lamb), casseroles, game and mature cheeses. Given the number of years before release and the amount of care that goes into its production the most surprising thing about this wholly epic wine is the price point. In my book, a must to try. Stockists: Handford Wines, The Solent Cellar, Divine Fine Wines Price: £35

La Singulier (below) is grown on vines that stretch down to the sea along the picturesque Mediterranean coast and is only available in magnums, because who only open ONE bottle of rosé?

CHATEAU LÉOUBE LA SINGULIER PROVENCE, FRANCE This limited-edition rosé from a private estate just outside St. Tropez is aged on the lees for six months. Proof incarnate that you can develop flavour, without headbanging tannins, while retaining absolute finesse and that beloved pale pink colour sought out by us Brits. The vines lie in the most pictureperfect location on the Mediterranean coast and stretch down to the sea. This allows a certain salinity to prevail and this is complemented by almost imperceptible notes of the Provencal scrub with lavender,

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thyme and rosemary. Hand-picking ensures absolute quality control. In the mouth, there is morish minerality and softness, but with a long finish. This isn’t a sweet strawberry or ’lady petrol’ wine but a sophisticated full-bodied pleasure-dome with aromas of summer berries, white peach, pear, dragon fruit and fresh pineapple. It’s magnums only on this release, but who only ever opens ONE bottle of rosé? That said, there are only 800 of these available. The choice to distribute in magnums allows for better ageing potential and flavour development of this wine. Aged wines in the rosé field are slightly alien to us in the UK, as we perceive the ‘pink juice’ as just a summer drink, or perhaps one for the piste. Prestige rosé such as this will be a growing trend to watch. La Singulier has a perceived ageing potential of two to four years, although it will take real selfcontrol to stop the cork from being pulled way before then. La Singulier will stand up to being quaffed alone, but also is a great ‘gastro rosé and shines brightly accompanying food. Barbecued meats and seafood are great accompaniments. Simple apéro or lunchtime snacks of artichoke, red peppers, tapenade and brandade of cod allow this wine to show its quality without interruption. This is probably the only Provence rosé that can take you through lunch, dinner and onto bedtime with Provence panache. Stockists: Daylesford Organic Price: £200 (magnums only)

CULTURE — exceptional wines

status in 2014. Only vines between 25 and 40 years old are used in this mind-blowing pinot noir, which means slightly lower yields but powerfully concentrated juice. Some of the estate’s vines include some that are allegedly smuggled directly from Burgundy itself and thereby the only ones in the region. The nose is of dark plum with hints of vanilla, clove, star anise and Chinese peppercorn. It is full in the mouth, with no tarryness, and a note of crabapple and rosehip. An overall plummy, young Medjool date velvet-like texture prevails, backed up by savoury notes and a wonderfully balanced acidity that carries the wine to a long, very elegant finish. The acidity adds a refreshing note and in turn enhances the fruit, which means this wine never feels heavy

ATA RANGI 2018 PINOT NOIR MARTINBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND A Grand Cru equivalent classification from New Zealand immediately gives an expectation of quality and you won’t be disappointed. Clive Paton sold his cows and planted vines on five hectares of a stony paddock 42 years ago and became a pioneer of grape growing in the area. For 16 years, head winemaker, Helen Masters has helped assure Ata Rangi (meaning ‘dawn sky’ or ‘new beginning’ in Maori) has a worldclass reputation, winning the New Zealand Winemaker of the Year accolade in 2019. Situated north of Wellington, the grapes are planted on a thin layer of soil that originally formed a riverbed and achieved organic

The reputation of the 2018 Ata Rangi pinot noir (left) was cemented when it won the New Zealand Winemaker of the Year accolade in 2019, while the Heavensake Junmai 12 (right) delivers a more approachable take on rice wine

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and gives it an aura of Burgundy on acid! Teriyaki salmon, chicken or duck works well with the plumminess really showing through. Pan-fried veal and venison are enhanced by featuring alongside this wine, and calf’s liver in a meaty jus with onions and bacon made it really pop! Stockists: Specialist Cellars, Berry Bros. and Rudd. Fortnum and Mason. Price: £59.99

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Some of the estate’s vines include some that are allegedly smuggled directly from Burgundy itself and thereby the only ones in the region

CULTURE — exceptional wines

HEAVENSAKE JUNMAI 12 HYOGO, JAPAN Designed as an alternative to white wine and rosé, Heavensake’s Junmai 12 is aimed squarely at easy drinking and accompanying food. In partnership with the master brewer or ‘toji’ of the family-owned Konishi brewery on Honshu, Regis Camus, director of winemaking at PiperHeidsieck, developed his vision of 25% lower alcohol and a more approachable take on rice wine. The result is a liquid with salted caramel, cacao been, kumquat and almond on the nose, which draws you in to take your first mouthful. The first thing you notice is that it is served cold, dispelling those restaurant experiences with its warm, or dare I say plum driven cousin. The taste is confusing at first, with pastry notes coming into the foreground and a bright, clean, steely finish. Both asparagus and mushroom risotto sat perfectly alongside Junmai 12, with the rice source of the drink bringing out the arborio’s underlying taste. The sashimi was shown a clean pair of heels as the sake enhanced and seemed to amplify the fresh slices of tuna, halibut and salmon with its clean edge. The old favourite of the Izakaya bars, yakitori chicken was the ultimate pairing test and Junmai 12 sliced cleanly and admirably through the sticky sweetness of the tare sauce. By blending the various base sakes, Camus has undoubtedly delivered the balanced and accessible offering he wanted. Heavensake is now a global awardwinning composition, and worthy of further investigation. It’s arigato Camus san from me. Pairing: Stockists: japan-gourmet. com, Hedonism Wines Price: £32.00

BOLLINGER LA GRANDE ANNÉE 2014 CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE Out of 632 Champagnes at Tyson Stelzer’s Taste Champagne event in London, this took many people’s

breaths away, including mine. Certainly, the delivery of the decade, in my view. At Bollinger only very high-quality harvests are designated as suitable for the production of their vintage Champagne ‘La Grande Année’ or ‘The Great Year’. Only two allowable Champagne grapes are used in this 2014 vintage offering, 61% of pinot noir and 39% chardonnay, with the wines being fermented entirely in oak barrels. La Grande Année is Bollinger’s prestige cuvée and is hands-on all the way, with all steps of the process that makes Champagne carried out by hand. The 2014 is exceptional in its minerality and the intensity with which it performed at Taste London is what made it stand out. It is not only well structured and buoyant, but also rich and very complex giving a mouthfeel that can only be described as luxurious. In the glass, the golden hue confirms the wine’s maturity and the effect of oak in the vinification. On the nose, there is a salty note

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somewhat like a croissant that has received a salt wash before baking. Lemon balm, russet apple and quince prevail and then cob nut, almond, nectarine and mirabelle give an enticing feeling. In the mouth, the citrus note returns with apple, pear and a noticeable stony minerality. Its fine mousse lightens towards mid mouth weight with a tremendous, long finish. This makes for a fresh, intense glass with so much complexity that you want to visit it again and again. And I will. Fish or guinea fowl are great bedfellows for this multi-use wine. Drink it on its own and it excites. Match it with scallops, or langoustine and its subtlety comes forward. Match with braised guinea fowl with crushed La Ratte potatoes and morel mushrooms and it shows its complex side handling the meat with ease to triumph. “Chapeau” Bollinger. 2014 is what it says on the bottle, a Grande Année indeed. Stockists: Wapping Wines, Harvey Nichols Price: £135

beguiling buildings

Words by

Sam Kessler

THE WORLD’S MOST BEGUILING BUILDINGS From woodland fantasies to overly-svelte sky scrapers, gaze upon some of the most awe-inspiring architecture of the moment

>———> London is defined by its skyline, with architectural icons like the Gherkin and London Eye (for better or worse)

becoming synonymous with the capital. But we’re not the only ones that can lay claim to world-leading projects of aesthetic importance; all around the world, exceptional firms have been creating even more exceptional buildings, from record-breaking skyscrapers to imaginative flashes of whimsy. So, rather than sit, staring out the window at the now-mundane sight of the Shard, it’s time to explore what other creative countries have been designing and building lately. Here then are some of the most spectacular new architectural projects from around the world this year.

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beguiling buildings

THE WORLD’S SKINNIEST SKYSCRAPER Standing at 435 metres tall, SHoP Architect’s latest project at 111 West and 57th Street is now the Western Hemisphere’s second tallest skyscraper. Much more impressive though is the fact that it has a height-to-width ratio of 24-1. It’s 24 times taller than it is wide. That makes it the slimmest skyscraper in the world and, importantly, absolutely terrifying to think about being on top of. The structure has been achieved by using the highest-strength concrete in the world, which is reassuring. But you still won’t find us taking a long ride to the top.

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beguiling buildings

DESERT DUNES While the late, great Zaha Hadid may have passed, her eponymous studio has been keeping her signature organic style of architecture alive and well – case in point, the new headquarters for sustainabilityslanted investment group BEEAH. In keeping with their environmental credentials, the new building is meant to blend into the local environment; the desert landscape around Sharjah in the UAE. The 9,000 square foot, interconnected array of curvaceous, solarpowered buildings is a beautiful blending of nature and glass fibrereinforced concrete.

VINEYARD VIEWS Oscar Niemeyer was one of the most important figures in modern architecture, so his final project is one that design aficionados have been anticipating for a while now. The result is this spectacular, glass-walled pavilion at French winery Château La Coste. While more low-key than Niemeyer’s UN Headquarters in New York, the pavilion blends perfectly into the landscape while making the most of the gorgeous views of the vineyards. It’s also in good company, joining the final project by Richard Rogers at Château La Coste. The wine label has a type, and it’s Pritzker Architecture Prize winners.

His final project is one that design aficionados have been anticipating for a while now 128

beguiling buildings

TUBULAR TREEHOUSES If you came across these whimsical structures dotted around an Austrian forest, you might think you’d wandered into an off-kilter fairytale. Built for Styrian restaurant Steirereck am Pogusch by Precht Architects, the four modular buildings (dubbed Bert) are built using the same forest timber that surrounds them. Designed with a miniscule footprint in mind, the accommodation for restaurant staff and guests are nonetheless spectacular, with full-sized glass windows offering unsurpassed views of the forest canopy. If you’ve not heard of the picturesque village of Pogusch before, now you have a reason to.

The four modular buildings (dubbed Bert) are built using the same forest timber that surrounds them

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beguiling buildings

MULTI-STOREY SKATING The Kentish town of Folkestone might have just become the UK’s new skating hub courtesy of the world’s first multi-storey skate park from Holloway Studio. Essentially three skate parks stacked on top of each other, F51 offers concrete bowls, half-pipes and multi-level landscapes, all wrapped in an upwards curving, intensely modern monolith. As a final touch, you can see the bowls protruding through the base of the building. To round out the extreme sports offerings, there’s a climbing wall and boxing ring, though it’s obviously the skating that takes centre stage.

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beguiling buildings

BOWL OVER Hida Furukawa Station Eastern Development isn’t the most inspiring of names, but the project itself is nothing short of awe-inspiring. Situated in the mountainous Gifu Prefecture in Japan, the development by Japanese firm Sou Fujimoto Architects takes the form of a massive, grass-topped bowl, underneath which are all the facilities of a much-needed community centre. At the very centre, the roof dips right to the ground, letting locals easily walk around the rooftop parkland, which in turn reflects the local beauty of the town of Hida. Indeed, from near the middle of the bowl, the eyes are directly without fail at the forested hills around the town, reflecting Japan’s love of natural beauty.

TALLEST IN TIMBER Most architects have gone beyond wood as the main structural component of their builds, but for Schmidt Hammer Lassen it’s the core of their new residential build in Switzerland, standing at 100m tall. That makes Rocket&Tigerli the tallest timber building in the world. Set to be built in Winterthur, just north east of the Swiss capital Zurich, the structure uses a timber core with a terracotta façade and green highlights, echoing the green-filled public ground floor spaces that are also part of the design. The name, Rocket&Tigerli, comes from the trains once built on the site – because yes, this green and wooden piece of sustainable design used to be a factory.

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beguiling buildings

SKYLINE SCARLET When you’re relatively restricted by the needs and necessary building codes required of your shiny new 30-storey residential tower, there are a few things you can do to really help it stand out. Painting the huge balconies of the top three floors bright red, the colour of passion, is most definitely one. The Antares Tower collection of 88 apartments from Parisian studio Odile Decq uses organic shapes inspired by other iconic buildings in Barcelona’s skyline, in keeping with the style of the city. But it’s those flashes of bright red that really set the luxury block of ultra-modern apartments apart from the crowd.

It’s those flashes of bright red that really set the luxury block of ultra-modern apartments apart from the crowd 132

making the most of milan

Words by

Nick Savage

Making the most of

Milan

Milan might be known as the industrial heartland of Italy, but that doesn’t mean that the grown-up capital of the north is without big and bold splashes of culture, as Nick Savage discovered during his month-long stay

>———> Milan has long been Italy’s most industry-forward

city, where creativity and prosperity go hand in glove. It’s a city that looks outwards more than in, wearing its cosmopolitanism on its ever-so-modish sleeve to establish itself as a world-leader in the spheres of design, fashion, architecture and the visual arts. In fact, now that the world’s opening up again, there’s a good chance you, reader, will find yourself in Milan in the near future. There are enough international events

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held in the ancient city that the chances of it intersecting your own life are high. That means you could likely use a little local knowledge on what to see, and where to eat, drink and stay to get the most out of Milan. Fortunately, you’re in luck. I moved to the city for a month with my wife and daughter last autumn, and quickly found myself falling in love with this very buttoned-up, grown-up capital of the north. Here are my personal tips for making the most of Milan.

making the most of milan

WHAT TO SEE The Last Supper – Tickets to see Leonardo DaVinci’s expansive, exquisite mural rendering of The Last Supper are snapped up months, and sometimes years in advance but are well worth the forward planning. Situated just off the Corso Magenta, only a short walk from the Duomo, guests enter through The Museum of the Last Supper to the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazia, where the illustrious painter made his mark on eternity. It’s very easily a bucket list experience. Teatro alla Scala – Perhaps the most famous opera house in the world, it’s not just tourists that flock to La Scala. In fact, you’ll find it thronged with Milanese on any given evening, dressed to the nines to witness the finest singers feting its hallowed stage. At 244 years of age, La Scala has played host to most operas of merit, exuding a richness of history that magnetises the aesthetic cognoscenti. Fondazione Prada – Located in Largo Isarco in the south of Milan, Fondazione Prada is an architecturally-magnificent amalgamation of seven existing buildings with three new structures, and plays host to a beguiling collection of modern and contemporary art. For refreshment in the form of classic cocktails, repair to the Wes Andersondesigned Bar Luce, which looks as if it were lifted from one of his sets.

Creativity and prosperity dominate city life in Milan and the Teatro alla Scala – perhaps the most famous opera house in the world – ensures these qualities apply to the city’s pulsing cultural scene, and not just its business heartland

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making the most of milan

Cantina Isola (left) was established in 1896; Fondazione Prada (above) plays host to a beguiling collection of modern and contemporary art; the Negroni Sbagliato (below) hails from the city’s Bar Basso

Striding into Cantine Isola’s worn, dark-wood interiors feels like entering a living ode to oenology

WHERE TO DRINK Bar Basso – It’s difficult not to feel that one is having the definitive aperitivo experience at Bar Basso. Located in the trendy eastern quarter of Città Studi, spread muscularly alongside a corner of Viale Abruzzi, the cocktail bar was founded in 1967 by Mirko Stocchetto and since become an international institution, steeped in tradition. It’s the birthplace of the Negroni Sbagliato (a long take on the classic cocktail using champagne instead of gin) and an enduring destination for those who value their hedonism with a dash of panache. Come on a Friday evening for an induction into the art and fashion crowd, which barhops across the street to Café dei Artisti. Cantine Isola – Launched in 1896, striding into Cantine Isola’s worn, dark-wood interiors feels like entering a living ode to oenology. Wines range from newfangled, local low-intervention growers to the most sought-after noble vintages and the staff are some of the most knowledgeable in the city. It can be difficult to find a table outside on the hip Chinatown Via Paolo Sarpi, but if you do, you can snag incredible dumplings from the Ravioleria across the street, which mate strangely but deliciously with the wine.

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making the most of milan

Notoriously impossible to book, Trattoria Trippa is Milan’s answer to St John and serves bistro cuisine of rare purity

WHERE TO EAT Langosteria – Simply put, Langosteria offers some of the best seafood I’ve had in Italy, if not the greater world. Unabashedly fancy, this is one to dress up for, even by Milan’s exacting sartorial standards. Service is spectacularly competent, the wine is skilfully selected, the interiors are class midcentury modern perfection, but it’s the cooking that will stubbornly lodge in your memory, whether it’s crudo, carpaccio, pasta or pesci prepared on the robata grill.

Trattoria Trippa – Notoriously impossible to book, Trattoria Trippa is Milan’s answer to St John and serves bistro cuisine of rare purity. Nestled in the trendy Porto Romana district, Trippa was founded by Diego Rossi, who formerly rattled the pans with three Michelin-starred chef Norbert Niederkofler. Using only a limited number of ingredients per dish, he has created a brilliant example of cucina povera that will keep you coming back for more. Particularly, in my case, the vitello tonnato.

The meat-obsessed will find a home at Ristorante Ribot (right); Trattoria Trippa (below) will make you feel like a local with its brilliant cucina povera; Ratanà (bottom) specialises in Lombardian cuisine and some of the most celebrated risotto in Italy

Ristorante Ribot – Ribot requires a bit of a pilgrimage, nestled next to the racetracks near Zona Lotto, but for the meat-obsessed it will be worth the journey. The Fiorentina (t-bone) steak gets pride of place here with chefs frenetically manning the grill like miniature Vulcans. However, other dishes, such as the maccheroncini alla Montalcino, will be more interesting to the discerning eater. It’s a well-worn institution and popular with the upper crust. You may find yourself ignored by waiting staff while they pamper a famous footballer at the table next door, as we were. Ratanà – Situated in the Gioia neighbourhood in a gorgeous fin-desiecle building that once housed a cinema, Ratanà is a love letter to classic Lombardian cuisine. Bookings can be difficult to nab at chef Cesare Battisti’s restaurant, which offers show-stopping victuals including some of the most celebrated risotto in Italy, Milanese meatballs and an off-menu costoletta that has to be ordered two days in advance.

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making the most of milan

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making the most of milan

WHERE TO STAY Palazzo Parigi – Likely the most zeitgeisty hotel in Milan at the moment, Palazzo Parigi is located in the trendy area of Brera and plays host to a rotating carousel of celebrities, models and designers, particularly during fashion week. The hotel is grand in the same manner as the Four Seasons’ Hotel George V in Paris or the Mamounia in Marrakech, dripping with gilt chandeliers, marble columns and enormous skylights. Prices are punchy, but it’s what’s to be paid for a hotel with paparazzi camped outside 24/7. A hotel with heritage, the Grand Hotel et de Milan (above) was where Giuseppe Verdi both lived and died and is a stone’s throw away from the Duomo; the Palazzo Parigi (left) is the perfect trendy location from which to watch celebrities, models and designers go by during fashion week

Opened in 1863, it is steeped in old world opulence, and often feels as if you’re wandering the halls of a mansion rather than a hotel 139

Grand Hotel et de Milan – The hallowed Italian opera composer Giuseppe Verdi both lived and died in the ineffably ornate Grand Hotel et de Milan, which is located just a stone’s throw away from the Duomo and even closer to La Scala Opera House. Opened in 1863, it is steeped in old world opulence, and often feels as if you’re wandering the halls of a mansion rather than a hotel.

CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Sam Kessler

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO:

THE LONGINES COMET The unloved mid-century Comet with its retro cushion case and brightly coloured dial is ripe for a revival 141

CULTURE — longines comet

Mystery dials are a bit of an anomaly. Other than Cartier’s obsession with them (and the occasional Maurice Lacroix) they’re a pretty rare form of watchmaking, designed to hide exactly how they work. The concept is usually that hands are mounted in a way that makes them seem to float, the ‘mystery’ being how that’s been made possible.

The Comet might appear something of a simple timepiece at first glance thanks to its fun and bulbous aesthetic, but inside it houses the Longines 702 movement from their golden ear, back when they were making movements outside of Swatch Group

The bigger mystery of the Longines Comet however is why so few collectors need it in their collections as much as I do. The piece was released in 1970, and between its now retro cushion case and a few brightly coloured dials (along with this red there was an incredibly eye-catching yellow version), it hit the nail on the head. It was also a lot more complicated than its funky aesthetic would at first suggest. Hours were told via a broad arrow central hand, while an orbiting dot (the titular Comet) indicated the minutes. They were mounted on the alternating coloured discs between the hour and minute tracks, hence the floating appearance, all set in a then decently sized 40mm steel cushion case. The movement inside is the Longines 702, back when they were making movements outside of Swatch Group, their golden era. The movement itself is a basic in-house calibre, but one that’s had a few extra wheels added to it to get those discs revolving. Otherwise, it’s reliable and, thankfully, relatively easy to service. It has its quirks of course. The discs can rattle – it’s not an issue with the watch as much as it is the overall concept – but otherwise, the Comet is among the coolest pieces from the 1970s. Well, at least that Gerald Genta never went near, inspired or was even brought up in a design meeting around. Perhaps more importantly, it’s one of the most accessible pieces of that era that’s still worth getting your hands on. You can nab an original 1970 model for well under £1,500 and expect it to be in good condition. Sure, it’s a little of its time, but these days ‘retro’ is like gold dust among watchmakers and any a collectors’ tastes (mine included) are getting a little more eccentric. If there’s one watch worth more for sheer style and quirk than it’s currently going for, it’s the Longines Comet. And if they ever add it to their Heritage collection, it may just be a solid investment, too.

It has its quirks of course. The discs can rattle – it’s not an issue with the watch as much as it is the overall concept – but otherwise, the Comet is among the coolest pieces from the 1970s 142

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS A WATCH UPCYCLING OCEAN PLASTIC, A PIECE PUTTING SPAIN ON THE HOROLOGICAL MAP, AND MOVEMENTS WITH RAILROAD ACCURACY GO UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

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IN FOCUS — maurice lacroix

RISING #TIDE

Maurice Lacroix make an impact – environmentally and visually – with their new upcycled AIKON Upcycled materials are becoming ever more important in the world of watchmaking and while there are certainly more wasteful industries out there, the horological world’s willingness to embrace environmentally friendly practices is nothing short of inspiring. The latest to join that socially conscious group of watchmakers is Maurice Lacroix – but while many a brand has done only slightly more than paid lip service to the environment, the Swiss watchmaker has gone all in with the AIKON #tide. The AIKON collection is Maurice Lacroix’s flagship, a chunky, sporty watch built as a visuallystriking daily wearer, and in the new #tide that impact hits new heights with a veritable shockwave of colour. Well, you’d want all your good work to stand out, wouldn’t you? Bright doesn’t begin to describe the rainbow on offer. Blue, green, yellow and orange case and dials are combined with a black bezel, while paler, pastel colours (and a phenomenal fuscia) incorporate bright flashes of white. With a total of 10 variations, they breathe new life into the AIKON collection – and those feel-good looks are echoed in their construction. #tide is a specialist in reclaiming and upcycling plastic waste in the ocean, cleaning the water and repurposing the material to ensure that no more ends up where it’s not wanted. The plastic bottles (specifically from around Thailand, Indonesia and the Philippines) are broken down, repurposed into a useable format and sent on. It’s the kind of initiative every major brand should be supporting – and Maurice Lacroix aren’t the first to do so. Last year Christopher Ward released their own wave-dialled take on an upcycled watch. Yet where theirs included a disappointingly small amount of recycled material, a disc on the caseback, Maurice Lacroix have gone all-in. The bezel, case, caseback, crown and buckle are all made from #tide recycled material – hence the incredible colours. The benefits though are more than ‘just’ helping rid the oceans of plastic waste. The raw material is mixed with glass fibre, resulting in a composite twice as hard as standard plastic and five times more resistance to damage. The carbon footprint is obviously significantly lower, but even without that feel-good fact, it makes for a superior breed of composite-cased timepiece. The AIKON #tide is designed to make a splash, that’s for sure. But it’s not just a flash in the pan for Maurice Lacroix. In launching their collaboration with the charity, they’ve committed to reclaiming

Environmentally and structurally sound, the AIKON #tide is made with ocean plastic from around Thailand, Indonesia and the Philippines, and then mixed with glass fibre to produce a composite twice as hard as standard plastic and five times more resistance to damage

10 million plastic bottles. Given that it takes 17 of them to make each AIKON #Tide… well, I’ll let you do the maths. There will be plenty of these eyecatching watches available in coming years. Granted, the number of bottles needed will go up significantly when, later this year, the AIKON #tide will have a matching upcycled bracelet to go with the case, but it’s still going to be a significant amount of watches. So whether you’re an eco-warrior in search of a statement watch or, like us, can’t help but love a bright yellow-cased and -dialled timepiece, the Maurice Lacroix AIKON #tide demands your attention. And the attention of anyone within half a mile. Find out more at mauricelacroix.com

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IN FOCUS — xxxxxxxxx

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IN FOCUS — atelier de chronométrie

FOUNDED BY WATCH LOVERS

Atelier De Chronométrie’s passion project puts Spain on the horological map It’s probably safe to say that when it comes to European watchmaking, the first country you think of is Switzerland, closely followed by Germany and the UK. Spain on the other hand isn’t likely to make the top 10. However, one independent brand rapidly proving that the Spanish watch scene is worth a closer look is Atelier De Chronométrie. Atelier de Chronométrie is the archetypal passion project, founded by watch lovers, for watch lovers – of a very particular calibre. The concept is pretty simple: every watch is a unique piece, designed in collaboration with a single client, a showcase of Spanish craftsmanship and haute horology that’s never to be repeated. At least, in that exact format. Despite being a young name, founded in 2014 and producing their first timepiece in 2016, they have already achieved a meteoric rise. That rise culminated in a nomination for the Grand Prix d’Horologerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2020, announcing their presence on the international watchmaking world in dramatic fashion. That GPHG winner was the AdC8, a Chronographe à Rattrapante, which was the brand’s first splitseconds chronograph. It’s a cool tricompax chrono with a black galvanic ‘gilt’ dial and gorgeous Breguet numerals. The case is both classy and ergonomic at 39.8mm diameters, made from grey gold with tear drop lugs. As with all watches from Atelier De Chronométrie it’s inspired by the vintage style icons of the 1930s and 1940s. The movement is based on a vintage Venus 185, a grail level rattrapante calibre that was improved with 50 new parts handmade by Atelier De Chronométrie. And the bracelet – the bracelet is a thing of beauty. Seriously, just look at it. If any bracelet could be called sexy, it would be that of the AdC8. Following their impressive showing in 2020, the next watch to garner international attention came in 2021 when the brand was invited to donate a watch for the Only Watch auction. In case you’re not familiar, Only Watch is the most exciting watch auction of the year, where dozens of the best brands in the world create unique, one of one watches for charity. Considering that Atelier De Chronométrie specialise exclusively in unique piece watches, it’s a natural environment for them. The watch that was donated was called the AdC21, an 18k pink gold piece with time only function and a retro inspired sector dial. With a top end estimate of CHF 55,000 it went on to reach CHF 95,000 (approx. £78,000) far exceeding what was expected of the brand’s debut at the event. An excellent achievement in the aid of Duchenne

Inspired by the vintage style icons of the 1930s and 1940s, the award-winning AdC8 was the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph and is based on a vintage Venus 185 that was improved with 50 new parts handmade by Atelier De Chronométrie, but it’s the bracelet that grabs the attention

The concept is pretty simple: every watch is a unique piece, designed in collaboration with a single client Muscular Dystrophy research, for sure, but also one that has since cemented Atelier de Chronométrie as an artisan watchmaker par excellence. While it’ll take a few more brands like Atelier de Chronométrie to really put Spain on the horological map, they’ve made a phenomenal start. It remains to be seen where their watchmaking limits lie, but if you’re looking for a unique piece rare even by haute horology standards, they may be the watchmaker for you. Contact them to arrange a meeting for your own bespoke concept and see what they can do for you. Find out more at atelierdechronometrie.com

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IN FOCUS — ball movements

Ball have included a silicon balance spring in their movement for its innate magnetic resistance and reliability, which combined with a nickel-based escape wheel and lever, means it can resist up to 2,500 Gauss of magnetism – about half the strength of an MRI machine

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IN FOCUS — ball movements

ENDURANCE BY NAME, ENDURANCE BY NATURE

Ball’s latest generation of in-house movements revives their historical railroad accuracy Many a historical jump in horological accuracy has been down to necessity. When John Harrison designed the H2 during the mid 1750s, it was to solve the problem of Longitude; and when Webb. C Ball created the official railroad standard of timekeeping accuracy, it was because of a tragedy a few years prior. On 19 April 1891, two trains crashed. The real tragedy wasn’t the eight deaths – though that was of course, tragic – but that it could have been easily avoided with proper timekeeping. The two trains were due to cross paths at a specific time, but after one of the conductor’s watches stopped for four minutes, they collided. To prevent anything of the kind happening again, Ball created a timekeeping service, providing reliable watches to conductors and ensuring that they hit his incredibly high standards of -/+ 30 seconds per week. That’s higher than today’s COSC standards and back at the tail end of the 1800s was obsessive. While well over a century has passed since the Ball Timekeeping Service, the railroad standard is still incredibly high, with most watchmakers happy to build an in-house movement. Given their shared name and heritage, that simply wouldn’t do for the modern incarnation of Ball Watches. More often than not, watchmakers build in-house movements (and many they call in-house movements) for the sole purpose of prestige. It’s a nice thing to be able to say that you have a unique movement inside your watch. But for Ball, the Manufacture Caliber RRM7309-CS is about reclaiming their railroad standard legacy. To that end, it delivers accuracy of -2/+5 seconds per day, which is 30% more than is actually required to be called a chronometer. Impressive enough as that is, that’s not all the manufacture movement offers. Silicon balance springs are becoming more and more common in watchmaking for their innate magnetic resistance and reliability, so the fact that Ball have used one shouldn’t be a surprise. But they’ve done so in combination with a nickel-based escape wheel and lever, meaning that it can resist up to 2,500 Gauss of magnetism – just about half the strength of an MRI machine. It’s an enviable spec sheet for sure, and one that you wouldn’t really expect from Ball. Gloriously overengineered, chunky tool watches, yes, but in-house movements to back up their aesthetic credentials?

It delivers accuracy of -2/+5 seconds per day, which is 30% more than is actually required to be called a chronometer That’s reassuring to know. Case in point, the Engineer III Endurance 1917 GMT. Named after Shakleton’s famous (and ill-fated) ship, the Endurance 1917 might be among the more pared-back Ball watches, but let’s be honest, that’s not saying much. It’s still a solid piece of watch, with the watchmaker’s signature H3 gas tubes on the dial for a distinctively bright low-light look, especially with the rainbow option. The latest version adds a GMT to the mix, with a bright red 24-hour hand readable on the fixed inner 24-hour bezel. It’s a serious explorer’s watch with a traveller’s complication – and the GMT version of the RRM7309-CS, the RRM7337-C, inside. Add in a suite of shock resistance innovations, including Ball’s own Amortiser patented anti-shock system, and you have a watch that combines mountain-tackling ruggedness with railway-worthy accuracy. For out more at ballwatch.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS: • 45.5mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance • ETA Valjoux 7750 Elabore automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • $1,499 or $1,299 pre-order (approx. £1,175 or £1,000), boldrsupply.co

MICROBRAND

CORNER Whether driven by a vintage propellor or a cutting-edge engine, there are plenty of microbrands for whom speed is everything. edited by: SAM KESSLER

BOLDR Odyssey Regatta

Regatta timers are definitely a niche complication but the only thing more certain than that is that they’re incredibly cool – as are accessible tool watch brand BOLDR. Put the two together and you get their new Odyssey Regatta, now in admiral blue. A timely follow-up to last year’s Regatta, the watch was built in collaboration with a panel of experts and the results speak for themselves. As well as a 10-minute countdown timer used during a race, the two-in-one bezel combines a 15-minute counter and tachymeter adapted to nautical miles. The downside is that if you do happen to lose your next race wearing this, it won’t be due to your equipment. boldrsupply.co

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BACK — microbrand corner

anOrdain Model 2 MKII

Since it was launched, anOrdain’s Model 2 has put Scottish watchmaking on the map with it’s modernised take on the classic field watch, combined with the Glaswegian watch brand’s in-house enamel dials. Now, it’s been revisited with a few quality and quality-of-life changes. Was the original small for your gargantuan wrists? Never fear, it’s now available in 39.5mm version. Did you miss having a second hand? anOrdain heard you. Even the enamel palette has been shifted to be a touch more militaristic, in keeping with its field watch vibes. It’s not reinvented the Model 2, but it has without a doubt improved it.

THE SPECS:

• 36mm or 39.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Sellita SW-210-1 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £1,700 (medium) and £1,800 (large), anordain.com

anordain.com

Atelier Wen Perception

It’s an open secret that many a brand sources components from China, yet most – especially watchmakers – avoid the ‘Made in China’ moniker like the plague. Not so Atelier Wen. The Chinese brand is embracing their homegrown manufacturing and has begun a campaign to enhance their country’s reputation for craftsmanship. Looking at their latest Perception series, it’s hard to argue with. The Xia, with it’s burning copper dial is magnificent, right down to the exquisitely guilloched finishing and 222-esque bracelet. It’s a lot of watch for the money – which, this being made in China, is still remarkable accessible. atelierwen.com

THE SPECS:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Dandong SL1588 calibre automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • HK$16,380 (approx. £1,600), atelierwen.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

Audric Strider

The Seaborne should already be on many a dive watch aficionado’s radar; Audric’s debut was big, bold and colourful in all the best ways. Now their follow-up is ready to land and it promises a more nuanced, generally sporty vibe. Core to the watch is its new, distinctively angular case, tapping into the current sports luxe zeitgeist nicely. Throw in a textured dial in some funky colours, not dissimilar to a Royal Oak, and you get a seriously accessible (and nicely chunky) alternative to the pricier prestige options out there. And by accessible, we mean $549 – if you go support them on Kickstarter that is. Retail price will be a touch higher. audricwatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • ETA 2824 or Sellita SW 200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • $849 (approx. £650), audricwatches.com

Maen Manhattan

You see an integrated bracelet and an octagonal case, you assume homage to Genta. Yet while the Manhattan from Dutch brand Maen does indeed have both those elements, it feels completely different, somewhere between 1970s sports watches and art deco classicism. That’s largely thanks to its cleaner look and its stunning, vertically striped dials. It’s also slim, with lovely dress watch vibes, all wrapped up in a timepiece that’s far, far more accessible than it looks. This one really deserves to put Maen on the map. maenwatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 37mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda R-150 autoamtic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £474, maenwatches.com

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watches and accessories

JEAN ROUSSEAU – WATCH ROLL

O r a c le

RECOMMENDS WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

The purpose of a watch roll is to keep your timepiece safe during transit, however that doesn’t mean they can’t be works of exquisite craftsmanship in and of themselves. This tan watch roll in calf leather is perfect for display, especially with the light blue lining that complements steel and white gold watches superbly. And as with all Jean Rousseau products it’s made to order, meaning you can be certain of its high quality. £320, available from jean-rousseau.com

FERRO – DISTINCT 3.0 GLF The Ferro Distinct 3.0 GLF is inspired by the classic Le Mans motorsport race, and bears a colour scheme inspired by the iconic gulf livery of the Porsche driven in the iconic film Le Mans, starring Steve McQueen. It’s available with either a Swiss quartz movement or the Miyota 9015 automatic calibre. The latter provides a 42-hour power reserve to the watch’s single, central hand. A little slice of vintage racing passion. $645 (approx. £500), available from ferrowatches.com

TIDLÖS – MARIN BLACK CARBON The Marin from Tidlös captures the primary elements of Scandinavian design, while also maintaining superb ruggedness in-keeping with the dynamic landscape of Scandinavia. The 43.9mm diameter stainless steel case has a helium escape valve and comes with 500m water resistance, which is an impressive feat considering it has an exhibition caseback. There are a number of styles available but this black carbon fibre option really captures its sporty essence. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré movement. £1,090 available from tidloswatches.com

GOLDEN CONCEPT – RS MANSORY The luxury Apple accessories brand, Golden Concept have teamed up with automotive specialists Mansory to create a range of sporty cases for the Apple Watch 7. The cases, called RS Mansory, are made from a combination of titanium and carbon fibre using the same methods used by many top Swiss watchmakers. It gives your Apple watch a rugged appearance that sits bolder on the wrist, with a variety of strap colours available. This is the mint green version, which looks great on the deck of a yacht. $1,999 (approx. £1,500), available from goldenconcept.com

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Hirsch – Louisiana Alligator Strap This genuine Louisiana Alligator strap from Hirsch is as classic as they come and ideal for the most refined of occasions. The leather is specially selected and cross-cut in the perfect way to provide a satisfying blend of oval and rectangular scales, creating that distinctive alligator pattern. The look is completed with rich colour, courtesy of barrel-dyeing, with tone-on-tone backstitched seams. Suitable for any Vacheron Constantin or Rolex. £159, available from watchobsession.co.uk

style

Ted Baker – Tynets Suit Trousers When it’s not raining, the English summer is a time for garden parties and fine occasions for which you want a light suit that embraces the sunshine. The Tynets slim grey blue check suit trousers border the line between fun and serious, making it a versatile piece of tailoring. Its combination of wool and polyester is great for a luxurious feel without overheating. There’s also matching patterns for the rest of your ensemble. £130, available from tedbaker.com

Mackintosh – Mist Tie Dye Nylon Cape With English spring time well underway and summer around the corner, it’s time to get used to sharp bouts of rain and fleeting glimpses of sunshine. To make the most of the weather you need a waterproof that’s capable and easy to wear. Take for example Mackintosh’s most experimental range of outerwear, the Mist Tie Dye Nylon Cape. It’s made from durable material with a voluminous silhouette to keep you dry. £695, available from mackintosh.com

INUIKII – HUGO SNEAKER Fusing premium, organic European materials with Swiss design, Inuikii are at once a sustainable and cool brand. The new Hugo Sneaker combines Italian leather with an edgy, architectural appearance that is both sporty and relaxed. Making it suitable for everyday use, sport or even casual business. It’s available with red or blue accents and both have their own charm. We like the way the red ones evoke the clay courts of Roland Garros. £245, available from inuikii.com

VIVVANT – LONDON BROWN PATINA JODHPUR BOOTS For the modern, urban man. The Alexis Brown Patina Jodhpur Boots are handcrafted in Florence with a hand applied patina effect that provides masculine character and that wellloved appearance that’s so desirable with leather boots. They’re completed with a stud fastener for comfort and security on the foot as well as Vivvant’s signature triple V leather stitch logo on the back. £288, available from vivvant.co.uk

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MYRQVIST Spring is here at last so it’s time to break out the loafers. These are the Ängsö Black Suede from elegant Swedish brand Myrqvist, proof that Scandinavian design is all but unbeatable. They have a lovely black suede, single monk strap construction finished with a fringed tongue. The strap is made from contrasting grained leather that makes it stand out, while the sole is also leather. It’s all brought together by a silver buckle adding a spark of colour. Ängsö is also available in brown. £239, available from myrqvist.co.uk

technology

TAG HEUER – CONNECTED WATCH CALIBRE E4 GOLF EDITION

Apex Bike At home, virtual spin sessions aren’t for everyone, especially if you’ve been on the internet and seen the videos of instructors going haywire mid set. That’s where Apex Bike comes in, a smaller, more discrete exercise bike that fits in the home without taking up a dramatic amount of space. It also comes with an app of classes with UK instructors that avoid some of the unnecessary explosiveness of American alternatives. £599, available from apexrides.com

Recently Tag Heuer launched the latest version of their connected smart watch, the Calibre E4. Now, the E4 is getting a slight makeover and new functionality thanks to the new Golf Edition. Those new functions include an automated shot tracker, redesigned golf software and an integrated magnetic ball marker. That’s in addition to its ability to display maps of thousands of courses including distances and hazards. An essential companion on and off the fairway. £2,200, available from tagheuer.com

Hennessey – Mammoth Hennessey might be known for their high performance sports cars that push speed to the extreme, but speed isn’t the only attribute they excel at pushing to the very edge. Meet the Hennessey Mammoth 1000 6x6 TRX. A six wheel truck that is extreme in every possible measurement. It’s huge, dramatically styled and quick to boot. Only 12 Mammoths of these beasts will be produced each year making them highly exclusive and there are a range of performance upgrades available as well. $495,950 (approx. £380,000), find out more at hennesseyperformance.com

Q ACOUSTICS – E120

SMEG – BEAN TO CUP COFFEE MACHINE During the pandemic we all started doing a lot of things at home and that trend is set to continue with technology like the Smeg Bean to Cup Coffee Machine. It’s you all in one at home barista with the ability to produce a wide range of coffees including espresso, americano and custom coffees created by yourself using the intuitive touch controls that allow you to experiment with a variety of parameters. Plus, it’s chic and stylish in any kitchen. £699.95, available from shop.smeguk.com

Once upon a time a decent sound set up consisted of a record player and some speakers. It certainly worked and there’s something nostalgic about the simplicity of it all. In today’s world though, music systems can be so much more. The new E120 from Q Acoustics functions as a wireless hub from which you can control an entire smart home’s worth of audio gadgets. From speakers built into your walls and ceilings to TV surround sound. Prices from £499 with pair of in-ceiling speakers, available from qacoustics.co.uk

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drinks

SILENT POOL GIN – PLATINUM JUBILEE COLLECTION With Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee on the horizon and a welcome long weekend to celebrate, you need to make sure you have the right drinks on hand. You can’t go wrong with the Silent Pool Gin’s commemorative Platinum Gin and two Darlington crystal glasses. It’s the first time the signature Silent Pool pattern has been updated with a new silver colour in honour of the occasion. The liquid is smooth with tones of peach and cream and a hint of pepper. £550, available from silentpooldistillers.com

Macallan – Distil Your World New York As part of Macallan’s Distil Your World series, they have created a new limited edition single malt whisky inspired by New York. It’s a city full of character and energy, which is something whisky maker Polly Logan wanted to capture in the liquid. Consequently it focusses on big American flavours of candy, peanut and chocolate so that it’s as vibrant on the tongue as the Big Apple itself. £3,100, available from thewhiskyexchange.com

Royal Salute – 21-Year Signature Blend The Macallan Rare Cask This 21-year liquid has been distilled and bottled to honour Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, a fact displayed in the sapphire blue bottle inspired by the crown jewels. The expression is equally regal with a floral scent that hints of pear and sherry, matched on the palate by a deep smokiness that’s accompanied by nutty and fruity tones. The finish is long and satisfying. £125, available from lochfynewhiskies.com

SEARCYS – ENGLISH SPARKLING WINE Searcys has launched its first ever English sparkling wine, called the Searcys Classic Cuvée, Brut, English Sparkling Wine, NV. It’s a blend of three traditional Champagne grapes grown at the Greyfriars Vineyard in England, consisting of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. This fresh and vibrant drink has been released in celebration of Searcys’ 175th anniversary, marking a landmark milestone in the brand’s history. £32, available from searcys.giftpro.co.uk

GLENALLACHIE – 15-YEAR SCOTTISH OAK GlenAllachie have announced a spate of new distillations, the most exciting of which is a rare 15-Year Scottish Virgin Oak. While Scotland is the traditional home of whisky, it’s actually very rare for Scottish oak to be used in the maturation process because it’s a difficult wood to work with. On the nose it’s honeycomb and vanilla with hints of citrus, which translates on the palate to honey, toffee and orange. £175, available from houseofmalt.co.uk

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END — omegaverse

by MICHAEL SONSINO

M OVIE WATC H

The French Dispatch There’s a certain irony to writing about Wes Anderson’s latest film, The French Dispatch, in a magazine. The film is highly stylised and centres around three vignettes of journalists setting out to write stories for a newspaper. Looking around Oracle Time HQ as I write, I can almost imagine certain characters around the office taking a leading role in such a

vignette – our Editor Sam Kessler is straight out of an Anderson film. However, while my colleagues might be colourful, they’re nothing compared to the level of character dripping from every watch in The French Dispatch. First up is the watch on the wrist of Owen Wilson’s character, Herbsaint Sazerac. Sazerac is a local colour reporter, intent on revealing the seedy underbelly of Ennui, the quaint, fictional, French town where the film takes place. He’s a man on the ground, cycling everywhere and railing against the increasing mechanisation of the town, although he seems resigned to that fate. And his wristwatch displays all that sentiment perfectly.

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It’s a gold Eclair Chronograph Landeron 51, and a rather beat-up one at that. A chronograph is the ideal choice of complication for the cycling journalist as it evokes the difference in speed achieved by bicycles and cars. Also, it fits the stylisation of the film, as the first scene shows the town waking up quickly from empty streets to the hustle and bustle of life, as if they are being timed. The fact the watch is gold but damaged and dirty shows the effects of time, much as the town itself has changed from its vintage splendour to modern grubbiness. Next, we’ll jump to a pair of watches that feature in the third and final vignette, which tells the story of food journalist Roebuck Wright, played by Jeffrey Wright. Roebuck’s quirk – all Anderson characters have them – is that he can perfectly recall every word he has ever written, something I would find incredibly useful when it comes to learning watch calibres. On Roebuck’s wrist throughout is a 1960s Omega loaned from Omega’s museum in Geneva. We know that the museum gave them a pre-moon Speedmaster and a Seamaster 300, however we don’t know which one Roebuck is wearing as the film never shows it in detail to avoid claims of product placement (which technically it was as Omega paid for the honour of being included). But we can still talk about both watches, as whichever one wasn’t worn by Roebuck is on the wrist of the interviewer, played by Liev Schreiber. A pre-moon Speedmaster is a really interesting choice. Today you can’t think Speedmaster without thinking Moonwatch (or MoonSwatch *ahem*) but there was a time when it hadn’t earned its astrological connection. For those born after the 1960s, the moon landing is just a fact of life, the Speedmaster has always been the Moonwatch, those things are interlinked irrevocably. The pre-moon Speedmaster hasn’t fully realised the heights it would go on to achieve, it doesn’t know what it is yet. That lack of identity is matched by how Roebuck’s story is half cooking show, half cop thriller. It’s much the same for the Seamaster 300, a watch with unrealised potential, at least in the 1960s.