Oracle Time - Issue 81 - April 2022 (Momentum) by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .81

The New Salmon Face of

VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Momentum Issue THE BULLDOG | WATCHES & WONDERS | INSIDE IWC

ISSUE 81

9.95

ORACLE TIME #81

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Alex Teuscher Watch: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Chronograph

Given that I’m writing this at the top of a peak near Morzine, I’ve become recently reacquainted with the concept of momentum, the (slightly) terrifying increase in speed that naturally pairs with the loss of control resulting from a few years off the slope. Fortunately for this issue, it’s not reliant on my own gravity-induced momentum, but generally speaking that of motoring. And if there’s one car that’s built for that particular breed of momentum, it’s the Aston Martin Bulldog. The legendary, cutting-edge, one-off, superlative-baiting wedge of metal was the British brand’s attempt to hit the mythical 200mph mark back when it was a vague notion. So, we enlisted Simon de Burton, the man that literally wrote the book on the subject, to talk us through it on page 128. We also shoot through a few of the other rarest cars on the face of the Earth, right after. While not quite as groundbreaking, everyone loves a 1980s Audio Quattro, and what better counterpoint for our style shoot this issue? Styled and modelled by the inimitable Benedict Browne, the shoot on page 90 shows off solid, understated men’s essentials that have been paired with a series of incredibly handsome racing chronographs from the likes of TAG Heuer, Seiko and Omega. Of course, elegant as those particular chronographs may be, they’re nothing compared to our cover star this issue, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Chronograph. The base watch is always impressive, but with a vintage-inspired salmon dial heralding the beginning of a new regular edition up there with the watchmaker’s renowned Excellence Platine, it’s worth a closer look. Read more about the brand’s ‘anatomy of beauty’ concept on page 45. If their releases for 2022 are anything to go by, Vacheron is definitely going to make a splash at Watches and Wonders, but they’re not the only ones. Check our round-up of the best new haute horology launches from the show on page 39. I’m not saying which my favourite is… I’ll keep that a mystery. IWC’s collection this year may be small but it’s still perfectly formed, a quartet of new additions to the brand’s performance-slanted Top Gun collection. I was fortunate enough to visit the watchmaker’s impressive manufacturer last month which, along with plenty of room to grow, shows how invested they are in their materials, particularly Ceratanium. Not heard of it? Check out page 60 for the low-down. Still on the Watches & Wonders bandwagon, we also got hands-on with what might just be the coolest worldtimer of the year in the form of Hermes’ Arceau de Temps Voyageur, the Earth-centric sequel to their 2019 moon phase. As Omega pipped the majority of brands to the post with their raft of releases earlier in the month, we also tried out the productionready version of their record-breaking diving watch, the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. Unfortunately one of the coolest experiential aspects of this issue is one that I wasn’t able to try myself; instead Mr Tom Pettit, one of the co-founders here at Oracle Time, tried his hand at parabolic acrobatics courtesy of a gravity-defying one-in-a-lifetime experience and the Zenith Zero G. The best possible use of momentum? Quite possibly. By now, Watches & Wonders is well underway, and being the horological aficionados we are, we’re in the thick of it, so keep an eye on our website to stay up to date. (oracleoftime.com if for some reason you’re unacquainted) and our YouTube channel, where you may well get a glimpse of my goggle tan. Or a cast. Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

ORACLE TIME #81

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs

Shane C. Kurup

Shane is a men’s style editor who has worked for a range of leading titles, including The MR PORTER Journal, Men’s Health UK, Esquire US, PORT, The Telegraph and Wallpaper*. He’s rather partial to a jazzy silk shirt, wide-leg trousers and a gin and Dubonnet (or three).

Benedict Browne

Paddy Maddison

Benedict is a London-based journalist, stylist, and brand consultant who champions British brands and artisanal menswear. He splits his time between Head of Content at the menswear and lifestyle agency Studio Graft and lending his services to magazines, both in the UK and internationally. You can follow him on Instagram at @benedict_browne.

Paddy Maddison is a freelance menswear journalist with a keen interest in outerwear. When he’s not plotting his next big-coat purchase for the coming winter, he can be found at his desk, typing up words for the likes of The Independent, Esquire, GQ and Men’s Health. He’s also Style Editor at Ape to Gentleman and a former Contributing Editor at FashionBeans.

Simon de Burton Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

A freelance journalist whose articles on cars, motorcycles, boats and watches appear in publications around the world, he has been riding motorcycles since the age of six and currently has a stable of 15 machines to ensure all bases are covered. The author of Classic Cars – a Century of Masterpieces, he is currently completing a companion volume about motorcycles.

danmobbs@hotmail.com JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8171 4615

George Parker

Ken Kessler

is unimpressed by the 21st century and enjoys retro, if costly, boys’ toys, such as cameras, mechanical watches and fountain pens – of late, he is obsessed with Italian red wine. He has written four books on luxury hi-fi equipment and collects chronographs and film noir DVDs.

george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8171 4616 SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Phil Peachey Phil.peachey@opulentmedia.co.uk 0203 985 1414 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 8171 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #81

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 81

18 — AFICIONADO

45 — PERPETUAL STYLE

Discover all the latest on our radar and what should be in your basket this month

A new boutique limited edition heralds a new, salmon-dialled annual series for Vacheron Constantin

26 — NEWS

What’s going on in the world of luxury, haute horology and the latest current affairs

35 — COLLABORATIVE COLLECTOR’S ITEM Lebois & Co have enlisted the tastemakers that really matter: their collectors

39 — BEST OF W&W Our round-up of the best new haute horology launches from Watches & Wonders 2022

It represents what the maison is calling their ‘anatomy of beauty’ concept, which is all about kicking the details into overdrive Perpetual Style — p45

ORACLE TIME #81

CONTENTS

68 — HE DOESN’T BUILD COACHES

We meet the Rolls-Royce Head of Coachbuilding to discuss bespoke and Boat Tail

80 — GRAZIE MILLE

For menswear aficionados Italy’s iconic Mille Miglia race isn’t about cars, but the coats

92 — CASUAL CLASSICS

Craftsmanship and understated style take centre stage in the spring sunshine

105 — WATCH REVIEWS

128

OT gets hands on with Hermes and Omega watches

117 — LONDON RESTAURANT GUIDE

New concepts from Lisbon, Mexico and Peru are the latest to make their way to the capital

123 — SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED

Aidy Smith takes us on a vodka masterclass to help us make the perfect martini 71

128 — AN UNSUNG BRITISH BULLDOG

To ensure Bulldog would crack the elusive 200mph, it was decided to again use the 5.3 litre V8, but this time mid-mounted An Unsung British Bulldog — p128

52 — TIME TO ASK THE ORACLE

It’s a ubiquitous complication, but the chronograph has its own complexities

60 — PLAYING WITH FIRE AT IWC

A historic luminary in ceramic, IWC are still leading the way

The Aston Martin legend that spans four decades gets ready to ride again

139 — UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO

Lemania’s chronographs might be unheralded, but their calibre certainly isn’t

142 – IN FOCUS

A British Underd0g, heritage brand and the watch that conquered Everest

150 – MICROBRAND CORNER

Introducing the latest and greatest watches from the best small scale independents

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

PERFECT BALANCIER As if Greubel Forsey haven’t made inventive enough timepieces before now, the extraordinarily rarefied watchmaker has been dabbling with convex case shapes in tandem with their masterfully architectural movements. Case in point, the new Double Balancier Convexe. Along with the uniquely curved case, the watch features two dissociated balance wheels inclined at 30 degrees and separated by a constant spherical differential. Lost? Don’t worry, all you need to know is that it’s incredibly accurate and incredibly hard to do – and incredibly cool besides. greubelforsey.com

FRONT — aficionado

GLOBE-TROTTING IN STYLE Dr. No has one of the most iconic opening sequences ever put to film; the trippy coloured dots laying the groundwork for the abstract, gun-and-women Rorschach paintings that came to define the opening credits of all Bond films. Always keen to flex their relationship to 007, Globe-Trotter have taken on that opening sequence as inspiration for their new Dr. No collection. They’re not exactly under the radar, but it’s hard not to love the callback to the genesis of James Bond as we know him. Carry-On, £1,995 Check-In, £2,395 globe-trotter.com

FRONT — aficionado

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR Polestar have taken it upon themselves to make electric cars fun, and after watching Formula E, that’s a pretty big challenge. A look at the new O2 Concept though reveals that they’re up to it. A relation to the Polestar Precept, the new concept adds a hard-top convertible roof, letting you really appreciate the sheer lack of engine noise. Oh, and just so your Instagram followers can enjoy that fact too, the O2 comes with an integrated cinematic drone, which automatically follows the car up to 90 km/h. Yes, yes, this isn’t a industry standard, but by god it should be. polestar.com

FRONT — aficionado

SUPER FAST BY NAME… Momentum’s not all about cars and when it comes to seafaring speed, Greek shipyard Technohull may have just raised the bar to a dizzying height. The new 38 Grand Sport Super Fast doesn’t just solidify their reputation for speedy tenders, it’s a rocketship. Its trio of engines can pump out 1,350bhp, which means this thing can rocket up to 100 knots – which, for the less nautical of you, equates to just over 115mph. I’m sure some of you are wincing at the thought of that speed. Fortunately, it’s also slightly more forgiving than you might expect thanks to the boat’s deep-V Dynastream hull. The most fun you can have at sea? Quite possibly. Find out more at technohull.com

FRONT — aficionado

VIRGIL ABLOH X BURTON Despite passing away last year, the late, great Virgil Abloh is still making an impact – the latest of which is his posthumous collaboration with Burton, two years in the making. While the set of 10 exclusive designs were recently auctioned off to raise money for the Abloh Post-Modern Scholarship Fund, a selection is still available directly from Burton. So, if you want to upgrade your ride to one worthy of a fashion icon, look no further. Find out more at burton.com

FRONT — aficionado

AN IVY LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN Looking for that perfect halfway house between a classical footwear shape and modern, sporty shoes? Crockett & Jones has you covered. An ode to the Northampton shoemaker’s previous work with the paragon of East Coast style that is Ralph Lauren, the Cornell combines a brick red sole with suede, the most handsome of which is the high-contrast blue. This is Ivy League style with a British twist and it’s hard not to love. £450, crockettandjones.com

FRONT — aficionado

TASTE OF JAPAN

•

METHOD AND MADNESS Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Finished in Japanese Cedarwood Casks: £72 •

METHOD AND MADNESS Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Japanese Mizunara Oak Cask: £2,250 •

METHOD AND MADNESS Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Finished in Japanese Chestnut Casks: £72

While Mizunara oak, a tree particular to Japan, is hard to work with in a whisky sense, that hasn’t stopped determined distillers from adding its unique flavour to their liquids. Most prominently of course, is Yamazaki but now distillers Method & Madness are getting in on the action. Launching a trilogy of Japanese-inspired whiskies – the initial Mizunara, followed by a much more accessible pair finished in Japanese Chestnut and Cedarwood casks – think coffee cake, toasted walnuts, vanilla and pot still spices from the first 33-year-old release. Available at The Whiskey Exchange

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

ASTON MARTIN’S FINAL V12 VANTAGE Aston Martin are known for their sweeping designs, aerodynamic splendour and status as a genuine British legend. And for 15 years the V12 Vantage has stood at the pinnacle of their performance range. But not for much longer, as the newest model is

set to be the final time a 5.2 litre Twin Turbo V12 will be fitted to a Vantage. This means a farewell to its 700bhp, a top speed of 200mph and 0-60 acceleration of 3.4seconds, making it their fastest and most powerful engine to date. Limited to 333 pieces globally, for more information visit astonmartin.com

The newest model is set to be the final time a 5.2 litre Twin Turbo V12 will be fitted to a Vantage

FRONT — world news

AIÔN AIM TO REVITALISE FRENCH WATCHMAKING

By 2025, they aim to produce 400,000 movements per year

It’s safe to say that in European watchmaking it’s hard to get out from the shadow of Switzerland, particularly when it comes to the specialist production and development of watch movements. However, France is attempting to establish its own high-end movement industry with the creation of the Aiôn Group SA, created as part of an initiative from the French government. Aiôn have purchased a historical Swiss manufacturer (450 machines) and is relocating it to La Ciotat in southern France. By 2025, they aim to produce 400,000 movements per year including the first French automatic mechanical movements. It would be great to see French heritage brands using genuinely French calibres, a possibility which is only a few years away.

A TREASURE TROVE AT KIBBLE WATCHES If you’re looking for an unpretentious watch buying experience, check out Kibble Watches. Based in London, they’re an official stockist for Fears watches, a powerhouse of British revival horology, who we discussed in detail in Issue 75. Kibble deal in watches of all styles, brands and prices, having recently sold an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 38mm. Another highlight watch is a 1978 Seiko Panda Chronograph Automatic 6138-8021 in original condition. It’s a true collector’s piece. You can check out their full range at kibblewatches.co.uk

Kibble deal in watches of all styles, having recently sold an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 38mm 27

FRONT — world news

JAEGER-LECOULTRE EXHIBIT AT HOMO FABER 2022 Homo Faber is the premier event organised by the Michelangelo Foundation, celebrating exceptional work of designers and artisans from more than 30 countries. The showcase will be open from 10 April until 1 May in one of the most beautiful settings in the world, Venice, Italy. Jaeger-LeCoultre will also be there as an exhibitioner in the Genealogies of Ornament pavilion where they are celebrating the history of their Atmos clocks collection.

Jaeger-LeCoultre will be there celebrating the history of their Atmos clocks collection 28

FRONT — world news

BELL & ROSS ENTER VIDEO GAME MARKET It’s a brave new digital world out there and now more than ever brands are beginning to incorporate video games into their marketing strategy. The most extreme version of this is Hamilton and Far Cry, where their watch forms a central mechanic of the game. Bell & Ross have also taken the digital plunge and partnered with a racing game called GRID Legends, out now on most platforms, in which you can kit out your car with Bell & Ross livery. bellross.com

Bell & Ross have taken the digital plunge and partnered with racing game GRID Legends

CHRISTOPHER WARD CELEBRATES PARTNERSHIP WITH BRIT RACING TEAM The worlds of watchmaking and motorsport collide regularly and Christopher Ward have announced that from 2022 they are the official timekeeping partners of Team BRIT, a racing team with a story like no other. Team BRIT is made up of physically and psychologically challenged individuals, including

paraplegics, people with PTSD and autism. But, this isn’t an inclusivity PR stunt, Team BRIT have achieved podium finishes against able-bodied teams and this season they are competing in the British GT, the top endurance championship. Their goal is to one day compete at Le Mans.

THE WATCH INDUSTRY RESPONSE TO UKRAINE The events unfolding in Ukraine have shocked the world with atrocities and conflict that for many of us are unthinkable. The watch industry knows all too well the cost of wars, as the impact of World War II can Linde Werdelin still be felt in the Glashütte are producing watchmaking region of Germany, which lost so much a version of of its heritage. For that their classic reason, many luxury brands 3 Timer in the are stepping up to support Ukraine in their time of need. colours of the Phillips, the international Ukraine flag auction house which is Russian-owned, have donated £5.8 million to the Ukrainian Red Cross showing that even Russian brands condemn the events taking place. Many watchmakers are sharing on social media their own responses and even hosting charitable auctions of their watches, or creating special editions in support of Ukraine. There are too many to list here but to name one, Linde Werdelin are producing a version of their classic 3 Timer in the colours of the Ukraine flag with profits going to the Red Cross. The watch is a way to support Ukraine on the ground, showcase your personal solidarity wherever you are in the world and receive a nice watch to boot.

FRONT — time out

OR ACLE

TIM E :O U T

@mattheram Sometimes all you need is that perfect watch and, while I reckon our cover star from last issue – the Parmigiani Tonda PF – is pretty close, British watch geek @ mattheram has other ideas. Not that we’d complain if someone strapped this handsome Tudor Black Bay GMT to our wrists. Between the iconic Pepsi Cola bezel and signature snowflake hand, it doesn’t need any props (but a strategically placed issue of everyone’s favourite watch magazine) to stand out.

Oh, and it’s worth noting that Matt’s not just a photographer; if you want to read his geeky side for yourself, we suggest visiting mtr-watches.com. Want to showcase your own eye for a perfectly composed watch shot? Well, get your hands on this issue, get snapping and don’t forget to use #oracletimeout for your chance to nab a page to yourself next month.

For now though, Oracle Time, Out.

SUBSCRIBE TO PRINT MAGAZINE VISIT OUR

YOUTUBE CHANNEL

THERE ARE MANY WAYS to get your Oracle Time fix. Our favourite is of course within these lovely glossy pages to which you can subscribe via our website. An annual subscription containing 10 issues of the magazine is only £89.50, more value than a serious microbrand watch. Alternatively, you can come and say hello on one of our many digital channels. Instagram is the perfect place to share your wristshots and thoughts with us – remember to use #OTWristshot. Or you can watch our latest video content on YouTube, listening to the dulcet tones of our editor via our website using the QR code in the top right.

OUR

INSTAGRAM

collector’s item

When you love watches as much as we here at Oracle Time do, it’s easy to start thinking about designing your own. Don’t worry, we’ve not fallen down that oh-so-tempting rabbit hole just yet – mainly because creating a watch is hard work. What works in your mind (and on your wrist) might not for another collector. How do you know that the design you’ve spent months honing to perfection is something anyone actually wants? It’s enough to put anyone off. But never fear as you don’t need to kickstart a fledgling brand simply to see what it feels like to design a watch. Instead, you can just dip your toe in courtesy of Lebois & Co’s groundbreaking CoLAB Project. CoLAB is, as the name suggests, a collaborative platform where watch lovers and prospective designers can share their visions of the perfect watch. This isn’t just some unstructured, throw everything at the wall idea. That could get far, far too messy. Instead, Lebois & Co’s approach is strictly methodical.

Words:

Sam Kessler

The collaborative collector’s item WITH THEIR COLAB PROJECT, LEBOIS & CO HAVE CAST ASIDE PROFESSIONAL DESIGNERS AND ENLISTED THE TASTEMAKERS THAT REALLY MATTER: THEIR COLLECTORS

First, comes the inspiration, essentially the seed from which the eventual design will emerge. In the case of the latest CoLAB project, that seed was obvious. Ever since Lebois & Co was re-founded, collectors have been clamouring for a re-issue of one of their 1940s chronographs, so what better starting point? But, which one? Lebois & Co proceeded to dig through their archives and asked their

community to vote on which case shape and layout should form the basis for the project. It was a simple, effective method and one that not only showed off their impressive vintage collection, but also laid the groundwork for what would eventually become the Heritage Chronograph. From there, it’s been a step-by-step process, with CoLAB members voting on everything from the movement to the

collector’s item

shape of the lugs to the style of logo on the dial. Every aspect of the watch has – in a curated way – been decided by the collectors that will eventually be buying the watch. As Lebois & Co CEO Tom vanWijlick puts it: “We love the interaction. This whole endeavour is in line with our mission of becoming the most personal luxury heritage watch brand. Lebois & Co wants to create maximum value for money: quality timepieces with luxury finishes within a market-friendly price-range.” Fortunately, the results are more than just interaction with a community of dedicated watch aficionados; the watch itself is, so far, pretty fantastic. While Lebois & Co are still at the prototyping stage, the renders have so far been very impressive. Tachymeters, telemeters and pulsometers, with salmon and silver dials, it’s a solid array of watches that wear their vintage inspirations on their sleeve. That said, the standout is without a doubt the cream dial with its tachymeter and telemeter scale picked out in red and blue. The salmon dials may be a bit more classical, but for my money the Ref 324.497 is the one. Regardless of your tastes, all four pieces are equipped with a column wheel chronograph, in line with the original archive timepiece. It’s beautifully finished and visible through the exhibition caseback. It might seem odd to essentially crowdsource your watch design, to pin your hopes on people without a sketch to their name. But that’s the genius. If you’re building a watch for a community of collectors, it makes sense to enlist them, to essentially custom build a

A collector’s item in more ways than one, every aspect of the watch has been decided by collectors, in a range that includes tachymeters, telemeters and pulsometers with salmon and silver dials (top)

It might seem odd to essentially crowdsource your watch design, to pin your hopes on people without a sketch to their name. But that’s the genius 36

watch to their precise tastes. And if, once the watch is in our hands, it lives up to the expectation (signs are so far looking good) then Lebois & Co’s CoLAB project may just be the way forward for horological creativity. Pre-Orders for the Lebois & Co CoLAB Heritage Chronograph are currently on round two; sign up for yourself at leboisandco.com.

FRONT — watches and wonders

>—> >—> >—> It’s finally here, the epic watch show we’ve all been waiting for – and with it, a veritable glut of shiny new timepieces to fawn over. And fawn we shall, for among the best are new twists on classic designs, intense new complications and plenty of colour, provided you like green.

INTRODUCING ~~~

The Best of

Watches & Wonders 2022

CARTIER

Masse MYSTÉRIEUSE

THE DETAILS: •

•

The mystery watch is back again with what might just be Cartier’s most magnificent to date; condensing the entirety of a movement into an oscillating weight. Essentially a gyroscopic movement – thus limiting the ill effects of gravity – it winds itself as it moves like any automatic, just condensed into impossible dimensions. Of course, it’s also been skeletonised so the gears are on display, because why wouldn’t they be? The fact that its also lovely to look at almost seems like an after effect.

43.5mm platinum case with 30m water resistance 9801 MC calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve Limited to 30 pieces, cartier.com

FRONT — inxxx

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

The first Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton might sound like a niche title to hold, but it’s nonetheless an absolutely stunning take on Vacheron’s flagship sports luxe timepiece. Perhaps more importantly though, this is the first all-titanium Vacheron with an integrated bracelet after the previous Everest edition went almost all the way. With its contrasting blue minute track and anthracite bridges, it’s one of the more handsome skeletons we’ve seen – and we’ve seen a lot.

THE DETAILS:

42.5mm titanium case with 50m water resistance 2160 SQ calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • vacheron-constantin.com •

•

THE DETAILS:

43mm lime gold case with 30m water resistance MB 16.26 calibre manual-wind movement with 50-hour power reserve • Limited to 18 pieces, montblanc.com •

•

MONTBLANC

Minerva Unveiled Secret

Making the most of the legacy of their manufacture, Montblanc’s latest is an ode to the work of Minerva and features a chronograph movement that has been flipped around in its case. It’s more than an aesthetic change of course; one does not simply reverse a movement. But the results speak for themselves, particularly in the ever-handsome lime gold version, finished with a 1920s-inspired fluted bezel.

FRONT — watches and wonders

PANERAI

Submersible QuarantaQuattro

Panerais are often considered too small and elegant to be a serious diving timepiece, or too large to fit any but the most rugged of wrists. Well, it’s an issue the brand is taking seriously with their new 44mm Submersible collection. Available in five versions – including a Luna Rossa Limited Edition – they offer serious diving specs with Italian good looks and solid Swiss movements. These could well be the most wearable Submersibles yet.

THE DETAILS:

•

GUCCI

25H Skeleton Tourbillon

After hitting a high note with their initial high watchmaking offering last year with the 25H Tourbillon, Gucci have gone further and skeletonised it – and set it in flight. The result is an impossibly cool retrofuturistic timepiece that shows off just how serious the fashion giant is getting about their in-house horology. It’s clean, crisp and technical, not the kind of thing I’d have expected from Gucci just two years ago. Now it’s par for the course.

THE DETAILS:

40mm platinum case with 30m water resistance • GG727.25.TS calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • gucci.com •

44mm Carbotech, stainless steel or eSteel case with 300m water resistance • P.900 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • panerai.com

FRONT — inxxx

PIAGET

Altiplano Ultimate Concept

First there was the recordbreaking, one-off, ultra-thin, hyphen-baiting Ultimate Concept watch; then it was against all odds turned into a fully fledged production collection. Now, the thinnest Altiplano is back as a unique piece – though its easy to see why. The case is made from a high-tech cobalt alloy, lume stars across the dial that replicate the sky during the original AUC’s creation and a slate blue PVD baseplate. There’s a lot going on. You could say this is the Ultimate Ultimate Concept.

A.LANGE & SOHNE Grand Lange 1

The Lange 1 is arguably one of the most prestigious watches in all of Saxon watchmaking, and the 41mm version, the Grand Lange 1 is a grail piece for many collectors. Now, for 2022, the German watchmaker has given the piece an overhaul in line with its thin but wide appearance, complete with a handsome new grey dial. It’s a refinement more than an overhaul but it’s one that nails what the Grand Lange 1 is.

THE DETAILS:

41mm cobalt-alloy case with 30m water resistance 900P-UC calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • piaget.com •

•

THE DETAILS:

41mm white or pink gold case with 30m water resistance • L095.1 calibre manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve • alange-soehne.com

•

GRAND SEIKO Chronograph 15th Anniversary Limited Edition

THE DETAILS:

45.3mm high intensity titanium case with 100m water resistance 9R96 calibre Spring Drive movement with 72-hour power reserve • grand-seiko.com •

•

The most modern take on Grand Seiko’s uniquely Japanese watchmaking, the Evolution 9 Collection has this year expanded massively, with the standout being this striking blue chronograph. Built to commemorate 15 years of the Spring Drive Chronograph (meaning an outstanding +/- 10 seconds a month accuracy), it includes a GMT hand among its technical timekeeping indicators, along with the Spring Drive’s instantly recognisable power reserve. It has everything you want from a more sport-focused Grand Seiko.

FRONT — inxxxx

JAEGERLECOULTRE

Polaris Perpetual Calendar

I’ve always been a fan of the Polaris, particularly the Memevox (who isn’t?) and now Jaeger-LeCoultre is expanding the collection with a pair of perpetual calendars. Yes, that’s right, perpetual calendars. Never fear though, as they’ve managed to keep the svelte, two-crown look of the collection by operating the calendar through a single pusher. It’s an impressive feat and adds yet more haute horology heft to a seriously impressive collection. And it’s a stunner in rose gold.

THE DETAILS:

•

TAG HEUER

Monaco Gulf Special Edition

The Monaco is already a racing watch legend thanks to the inimitable Steve McQueen, but even among its many iconic variations the Gulf stands out. A lovely blue dial with the famous light blue and orange stripe of Gulf – as well as some finer detailing – makes for a bright, instantly-recognisable take on the square chronograph. Fit to a perforated leather bracelet and a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, it’s a beauty.

THE DETAILS:

39mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • HEUER02 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • tagheuer.com •

42mm stainless steel or rose gold case with 100m water resistance 868AA calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • jaeger-lecoultre.com

FRONT — perpetual style

PERPETUAL STYLE

A NEW BOUTIQUE LIMITED EDITION HERALDS A NEW, SALMON-DIALLED ANNUAL SERIES FOR VACHERON

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

FRONT — perpetual style

Vacheron’s Traditionelle Perpetual Chronograph in platinum with a salmon dial has made the leap from a limited edition to an annual series. With its technical tachymeter scale, the watch is a halfway house between a racing chronograph and a classical perpetual calendar, although it could technically be defined as a bicopax chronograph

Special editions are a blessing and a curse for most collectors. On the one hand, they lead to some of the most collector-centric releases available; on the other they are, by their very nature, a limited thing. Even if they’re not strictly a limited edition, they can often be of limited availability. This is the same across things like pieces only available for a certain time, from a certain retailer or, as is becoming more common, a watchmaker’s own boutique. That’s not necessarily a bad thing of course; it allows plenty of brands to try new things without having to commit to a big, global launch and, when it comes to the upper echelons of watchmaking, doesn’t necessarily limit things all that much.

Throw in a few blue highlights and you have the formula that Excellence Platine has been following since 2006 46

Take, as an example, Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing Excellence Platine editions. They’re staggeringly beautiful – especially last year’s Traditionnelle SplitSeconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin, a luxuriously monochrome take on the ultimate racing chronograph. Throw in a few blue highlights and you have the formula that Excellence Platine has been following since 2006. Beautiful as the Split-Seconds was however, a 15-piece limited edition is rarefied to the point of not really existing. The chances of spotting one in the wild are lower than a Tiffany Blue dialled Nautilus, particularly if, like me, you count Jay-Z as a close personal friend. Monochrome isn’t to everyone’s taste either, no matter how luxurious a take on the style it is. So, we now have the Traditionelle Perpetual Chronograph in platinum once again, but with a salmon dial. It’s not exactly a groundbreaking combination in a historical sense. Vacheron alone have a fair few vintage pieces with salmon dials, occasionally popping up in their own curated archival collection. It’s not even particularly earth-shattering now, given the renaissance of rose, pink and whatever you’d like to call them dials from every brand harking back to the good old decades of haute horology. But despite what overhyped, breathless news pieces will tell you, a watch doesn’t need to break the mould to be desirable. In this case, I’d say quite the opposite. Indeed, this isn’t the first time recently Vacheron has tried it out the combination for themselves. In 2019 they produced a salmon-dialled Patrimony model specifically for the Middle East. It was lovely, of course, as it’s hard to go wrong with the Patrimony’s minimalist aesthetic. Evidently it struck a chord because the new version isn’t market restricted, making it a good deal more accessible (at least when it comes to getting your hands on one, rather than price). More importantly, if there’s one collection that was crying out for the combination, it’s the Traditionnelle. And so it makes sense that, in looking for the foundation for what could become an annual edition, Vacheron turned to this timepiece – and what a timepiece it is. Perhaps a touch more technical than I was expecting from the collection, it’s the halfway house between a racing chronograph with its technical tachymeter scale, and a classical perpetual calendar. The calendar indicators are flawlessly integrated into the chronograph features, with the day, month and leap year in windows just above the centre of the dial, and the date and moon phase in a subdial at six o’clock. That technically makes this a bicopax chronograph, if the salmon dial wasn’t charmingly retro enough already. There’s a lot of information on the dial, but it’s wonderfully clean and legible.

FRONT — perpetual style

The watch has a new concept, but the movement powering the whole thing, the calibre 1142 QP, actually dates back to the 1940s and can be found in many a prestigious Vacheron models

FRONT — perpetual style

It might now be produced as annual series, but the Traditionnelle Perpetual Chronograph will still have limited annual production, so experiencing Vacheron’s ‘anatomy of beauty’ concept in the metal remains an exclusive experience

More than that however, it’s incredibly well-finished, even by Vacheron’s standards. It represents what the maison is calling their ‘anatomy of beauty’ concept, which in shorthand is all about kicking the details into overdrive. That includes snailing across the subdials of course, but also a new moon phase in platinum, with alternating polished smiling and melancholic faces like a 19th century thespian against a frosted backdrop. Even the Maltese Cross has been updated, now faceted and with an alternating polished and sandblasted finish. It’s a lot. Powering the entire thing is a remarkable movement, the calibre 1142 QP. It’s actually a movement that dates back to the 1940s and can be found in many a prestigious Vacheron models with its column-wheel chronograph. Though in this instance it’s been joined by the perpetual calendar function, it’s still very much a vintage calibre. That means a 48-hour power reserve rather than anything higher, but it’s worth it if you’re tempted to flip the Traditionnelle over. Needless to say, Vacheron’s ‘anatomy of beauty’ is plenty present there. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen platinum and salmon on a Vacheron and it won’t be the last. As I

It represents what the maison is calling their ‘anatomy of beauty’ concept, which is all about kicking the details into overdrive said, this seems to be the start of a new annual initiative from the world’s oldest (continually operating) watchmaker and one that I have very little doubt will appeal to collectors, both Vacheron’s own and lovers of this kind of classical beauty. The only downside is that the Traditionnelle Perpetual Chronograph, with its salmon dial and fine details, will have limited annual production. Exactly how many that will be is still up in the air – I’m writing this far in advance of the timepiece’s Watches & Wonders launch – but I can’t expect Vacheron will build all that many. Between the vintage movement and the excessive finishing, a blockbuster this is not. It is, though, beautiful. Want to see it for yourself? Find your nearest Vacheron boutique at vacheron-constantin.com

chronograph chronicles

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by SAM KESSLER

[A brief history of the modern chronograph and how we interact with it]

The humble chronograph is the most ubiquitous complication around. Whether by module or integration, pretty much any time-only movement can be transformed into a stopwatch and, honestly, most have. It’s also one of the oldest complications around, dating back to Louis Moinet in 1814 and Nicolas Rieussec who popularised it in 1821. Indeed, it was Rieussec who coined the name, as his ink-filled timekeeper used to track horse races onto a moving length of tape – hence, chrono and graph, the Greek for time and writing. History is fun! But let’s be honest, we all know a very particular type of chronograph – that is to say, the modern version with its two buttons, one to stop and start the mechanism, one to reset it. While Longines separated the stopwatch from running time in 1913, it was a monopusher housed in the crown. Instead, it was Breitling who in 1915 built the first chronograph with separate pushers, in 1923, split the functions of stop/start and reset into a pusher and the crown and, finally, opted for the twobutton-one-crown layout that we all know and love today.

The chronograph continued to evolve over the years (the flyback in 1936, for example), but that’s perhaps one history lesson too far. Instead, let’s focus in on Breitling’s seminal 1934 creation, as it’s the layout that’s been copied by every watchmaker since: the Breitling No. 100 Chronographe-Compteur. It’s a pretty perfect design. Not only can you start, stop and reset the time, but the reset is completely optional, meaning you can time multiple events, one after the other, pausing without resetting. Then there’s the layout, which separates the pushers from the crown, leading to a more ergonomic, balanced design. Indeed, the ergonomics of a chronograph can’t be underestimated. They’re designed to be used, and the pushers are how you directly interact with the movement. Small they may be, but between their aesthetic heft and their intrinsic link to the movement, the pushers may just be the most important part of a chronograph watch. Breitling’s original design used olive pushers, essentially elliptical rectangles, which suited the more classical, elegant tastes of the time. Since then there have been plenty of different pusher designs - not all of which were used solely on chronographs, of course. How else are you going to interact with all the weird and wonderful things a mechanical watch can do? These days most pushers come under two categories: pump pushers and screw-down pushers and the difference between the two is relatively self-explanatory. One, you simply press at any point to get the chronograph going; the other you need to unscrew before activating. In the past, screw-down crowns were necessary to keep any modicum of resistance to the elements. They were designed to stop water, dust or anything else from getting inside the case and interfering with the movement. They also stop the chronograph being activated accidentally on a stray rock or boat hull. Just start the stopwatch, screw down the crowns and you could dive in the water where, really, you have no business operating a chronograph. Aside from the risk of accidentally stopping the chronograph, these days waterproofing in watches is good enough that you don’t necessarily need screw-down crowns. They do offer a bit more security, but for the average diver the 300m most brands offer without them is enough.

chronograph chronicles

The chronograph is pervasive in watchmaking today and the man behind this horological revolution is Louis Moinet, who originally dubbed his invention a “compteur de tierces” or a “computer of thirds”

chronograph chronicles

Instead, it’s more an aesthetic choice, one championed by the legendary Rolex Daytona among others. And there’s a lot to be said for the pleasing, mechanical feel of unscrewing them. They’re less convenient, but then the entire point of using a mechanical timepiece over a digital stopwatch is the feel of the thing. Or if the electronics on your re-entry shuttle have gone. There’s only really one breed of screw-down pusher and while the grip may change slightly from watchmaker to watchmaker, the differences are in finish rather than construction. Pump pushers on the other hand offer far, far more variation. In part because they’re simply more common, in part because if all they need to do is move backwards and forwards, designers have a lot more room to manoeuvre. Not, as you’ll see, that many of them do.

TYPE OF PUMP PUSHER [Classic Pump Pushers]

These are the classic, used as early as the 1930s and still used by most watchmakers today. They are the chronograph pusher. The broader head compared to the stem gives you a good amount of surface area to push down, while stopping you from pushing it too hard into the body of the watch. They look serious, functional and like they can take a solid amount of use, just what you want from a complication as closely associated with sport as the chronograph. You can find them on the most iconic chronographs in history: the Zenith El Primero, Omega Speedmaster and Breitling Navitimer all use the classic pump pushers. They can have guards, like a crown or they can not. Most tend to have some form of protection in case they get knocked, but that more than the type of pusher varies from watch to watch.

[Mushroom Pushers] Not all pushers are the same, as the Longines Cal 13ZN features a mushroom pusher, while the Rolex Daytona (top) opts for the screw-down pusher and the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (over page) sports integrated pushers

Think of these as pump pushers that have been squashed. They’re thinner but wider, offering far more surface area and were originally designed (according to a 1938 patent filed by Longines for their incredibly rare Cal 13ZN) to improve water resistance. They’re not particularly common by any stretch of the imagination, so consider them a sub-sub-genre rather than an entity on their own.

chronograph chronicles

“ Sam essunt, est, quatum exceptas reperor itatiusti acea quam reicipsam volluptatem faccum quo is dignist rumendit ate sit ventis iuntisquam velloribus, coristi i ”

“ You wouldn’t go diving with a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Apparently, that’s for the next generation to do ” [Inverted Pushers]

Flip to our feature on their latest releases and you’ll see plenty of inverted pushers. The difference between these and normal pushers is that the pushers themselves, rather than just the stem beneath them, go into the watch. Visually, they look like upside-down pump pushers (hence the name) and have a more modern feel. That’s especially true in the ceramic pushers of the latest TOP GUN models, which smoothly overlap. Supposedly this kind of pusher is less likely to get dust caught beneath them, but honestly, they’re more often picked because they look cool.

[Integrated Pushers]

The most basic button you’ll have seen on Breitling’s original two-pusher chronograph function. They come in as many different shapes as there are shapes, all of which do the same thing. Rather than jutting out like your standard pump pusher, they often follow the lines of the case, far more subtle and elegant than what you’d find on a performance-minded watch. Any classically-minded watch will flirt with integrated pushers – Breitling’s own modern Heritage Chronographs use them – and while they have fewer built-in safety features than other types of pusher, they’re also used on watches that don’t want to be knocked about anyway. You wouldn’t go diving with a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Apparently, that’s for the next generation to do.

chronograph chronicles

The humble pusher may get less page space than funky coloured dials, unique case shapes or advanced calibres, but they are, to my mind, one of the most important things on any chronograph (or functionally complicated) watch. Well, at the very least the most overlooked. They’re not just aesthetic; they’re how you actively interact with your timekeeper, how you use it on a daily basis, whether you’re a trackside regular or just need something to fiddle with when you’re stuck on the tube.

market insights

MARKET INSIGHTS

4000

8,000

3500

7,000

2500

2000

Longines

3,000

Omega

Rolex

4,000

Cartier

5,000

1500

1000

2,000

Up By (In Millions)

Audemars Piguet

3000

6,000 income (in Millions)

Like any industry, ups and downs are expected on an annual basis, but while it’s easy to get a vague sense of which brands are doing well, putting them into the context of their competition can make for an eye-opening deep-dive. So, with the release of a new report from Morgan Stanley on the state of the watch world, we decided to distil it down into the basic facts: who won, who lost and who are the biggest players in the entire horological sphere. And so that we don’t need to drill down too far into the smaller numbers, we’re focusing here on the 20 biggest brands of 2022.

Winners of 2022 9,000

500

1,000 0

Rolex

Cartier

Omega

Audemars Piguet

Longines

Market Share Gains and Losses 5

Bulgari

Longines

Bu lg ar i

Lo ng in es

Pa te k

TA G

Ph il ip pe

Om eg a

Cartier

Va ch er on

Ca rt ie r

Vacheron Constantin

Ch op ar d

Ar pe l &

Cl ee f

Va n

Co ns ta nt in

Chopard

Van Cleef & Arpelss

Rolex

Ro le x

eg e

TAG Heuer ue r

Tudor

Jaeger-LeCoultre

He G

do r TA

rLe

Co ul

tr e

eg a Om

li pp Ph i

lg a

C IWC

te k Pa

Pi gu

Vacheron ar

ro n ch e

de m Au

rm e

s Hermes

t Audemars Piguet

-4

s Van Cleef & Arpels

-2

pe l

ee Chopard f

Bulgari

Omega

Patek Philippe

op a

What this all represents is a major shift in the hierarchy of the Swiss watch industry. Except for Rolex of course, they’re untouchable at the top. So, which brands have killed it when compared to last year and which ones have been falling by the wayside? Serious kudos go to Chopard and Van Cleef & Arpels; commiserations to Bulgari and Patek Philippe.

The Rankings

-2

Raw numbers are all well and good, but how does that translate to how well a watchmaker is actually doing on last year? For that we need to look at the market share – essentially how much a brand is beating out their competition. On the flipside, there are a few brands that, despite increasing their turnover over the course of the year, just didn’t manage to keep up with the competition – Omega being the biggest loser there, surprisingly.

-1

Market Share

Pretty much every watch brand made gains on 2021, but these are the ones that have increased their income the most. And it’s by a lot. But while Rolex and Longines remain the bookending stalwarts of the top 5, the middle ground has seen some disturbances. Cartier and Omega have swapped places since 2021, but more importantly, Audemars Piguet have taken Patek Philippe’s place as the fourth biggest Swiss watchmaker. The venerable Patek Philippe are down to sixth place.

He ue r

Omega

THE WINNERS OF 2022

TAG Heuer

Patek Philippe

FRONT — playing with fire

PLAYING WITH FIRE SINCE THE FIRST CERAMIC WRISTWATCH IN THE 1980S, IWC HAVE BEEN A LEADING LUMINARY IN THE ULTRA-HARD MATERIAL – AND THAT’S NO TRUER THAN IN 2022

FRONT — playing with fire

If the recent glut of horological drops is anything to go by, ceramic is the 6,000-degree piece of hardwearing hotness that every watch collection needs. In fact, it’s a material that’s been blowing up over the past five years or so, with every watch with pretences to performance luxury flirting with it. Ceramic, for the uninitiated is a material made using an inorganic powder, usually zirconium oxide. It’s then fired or sintered at incredibly high temperatures in a furnace until that powder becomes a solid mass of incredibly hard, smooth material. Change the formula of the powder, you change the colour it turns after the process. But although ceramic is one of the most seemingly modern materials around – at least, all of the murmurings of high-tech and ultra-hard might have you think that – it’s actually a bit older than you might think. As a horological material it’s not exactly vintage, but it’s getting to the point where it might be considered retro. Back in 1986, IWC, presiding over the picturesque region of Shaffhausen, introduced the world’s first ceramic wristwatch in, of all collections, the Da Vinci line. The Da Vinci of the time was the cutting-edge, forward-thinking member of IWC’s collection, so it’s perhaps not too much of a surprise. The Ref. 3755 perpetual calendar started off in black and was later joined by white ceramic, with a few funky-coloured concepts later still. And I really do mean funky. Pink ceramic anyone? They weren’t the only ones using ceramic of course. Just a little later Rado began to make their name with the material and still do to this day. In fact, the Swatch Group brand is one of the deftest hands with the ultrahard. But even they rarely experiment with colour, which makes sense. It’s hard. We got to appreciate just how hard on a recent visit to IWC’s incredibly impressive manufacturer in Schaffhausen. The modern haven to horology is that sweet spot between artisan crafts and larger-scale watchmaking, producing an impressive number of timepieces at both entry level and high complication levels. We also managed to grab a few words with Christian Knoop, Creative Director of IWC. “The problem is,” he explains, “that you don’t know what colour you have until the ceramic is actually fired. At the beginning it looks just like any powder, and it’s only through the process in the kiln that the colour comes out.” In short, every time you want to try out a new colour, you need to start from scratch. It’s incredibly labour intensive and, if you’re a perfectionist, enough to be driven to madness pinning down the precise, Dulux colour wheel hue you’re after. The prototyping phase with any new ceramic is by far the most timeconsuming part of the process.

That’s not the same case with pure white or pure black; there’s no nuance there. You ask for one or the other, you know what you’re going to get before the kiln’s even fired up. It’s one of the main reasons both ends of the spectrum are so popular among watchmakers. On the one hand you had every vaguely militaristically modern timepiece going for a stealthy black; on the other women’s watches like the J12 making best use of white. Indeed, IWC’s own modern era of ceramics really started with black. The first of the watchmaker’s TOP GUN timepieces appeared in 2007, which included, of course, a black ceramic case. It was a seriously cool, uncompromisingly hardwearing watch that in good part laid the groundwork for the influx of black ceramic timepieces that followed.

“You don’t know what colour you have until the ceramic is actually fired. At the beginning it looks just like any powder, and it’s only through the process in the kiln that the colour comes out”

You can have any colour you want as long as it’s black. IWC’s TOP GUN watches included a black ceramic case in a cool and uncompromisingly hardwearing watch that laid the groundwork for the influx of black ceramic timepieces that followed. Firing a new colour, however, is a considerably more labour intensive process of alchemy

FRONT — playing with fire

Of course, once the alchemists behind the mix have the formula for the right colour, they can replicate it over and over, so consistency isn’t an issue. Once you’ve actually found that perfect shade of… well, whatever you want, you can repeat it, repeatedly. That’s a good part of the reason IWC has been introducing the Mojave colour into a few more recent releases. They’ve nailed the perfect sandy desert ceramic and now they can apply it to pretty much everything else. Perhaps more impressively however is IWC proprietary ceramic-like material, Ceratanium. While it sounds like the bastard lovechild of the ultralightweight metal and ceramic, they’re not exactly materials that you can mix with any serious expectations. One doesn’t melt, the other doesn’t sinter. So, what exactly is Ceratanium? Well, it’s the halfway house between the two. Watch parts are milled from bars of the stuff just like you would any metal. And indeed, other than a slight rippled look and vaguely different colour, the base material could be mistaken for titanium, if a touch heftier. But when put into a furnace, the top layer becomes ceramic. It’s not a layer, like DLC or PVD; it simply transitions from titanium-adjacent alloy to black ceramic. If you scratch down deep enough, you’ll get back to the raw metal, but scratching it’s easier said than done. Perhaps more importantly however is that it doesn’t shrink like ceramic, which gets about a third smaller after sintering. That means you can make much smaller parts out of Ceratanium than you can ceramic, where the tolerances are far harsher than in a case. As you’re transforming easily milled parts into the finished product, you can turn out pushers, crowns and even pin buckles aplenty, before popping them in the oven until they’re done.

Creative Director Christian Knoop (right) and OT’s Sam Kessler settle in to discuss Ceratanium; a titanium and ceramic mix that when put into a furnace, the top layer becomes ceramic

Ceratanium is also a material that IWC produce inhouse. The importance of that can’t be understated. With so many watchmakers using the same producers for parts big, small and more often undisclosed, it’s good to know what something IWC claims as their own is actually, well, their own. It’s one of the more impressive parts of their alreadyimpressive Shaffhausen manufacturer and, as said manufacturer actually begins to fill up as the watchmaker continues to grow, will become a unique facet of IWC’s watchmaking. For now, Ceratanium is here to stay and, as their latest quarter of releases shows, make its presence felt. Which brings us to…

FRONT — playing with fire

FRONT — top guns

IWC TOP GUN Ceramic Editions 2022

THE DETAILS: •

44.5mm white or green ceramic case with 60m water resistance •

IWC Calibre 69380 automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve •

Limited annual production of 1,000 pieces per colour

IWC’s release slate this year is all about ceramic. After the last 900-odd words that shouldn’t come as a surprise. If it does, I apologise for being quite so subtle. So, let’s take a look at exactly how IWC have leveraged their ceramic-led expertise in their shiny new releases for the year. Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition Lake Tahoe and Woodland Green are the first two releases and they come in a pair. If you were paying attention to the Mojave edition from a couple of years back, you’ll know roughly what to expect here – well, one more than the other – as it’s now being joined by a woodland green and a pure, bright white. Let’s start with the Woodland, which is likely going to be the more popular of the two. It’s a monochrome look, with the case, strap and dial all rendered in the exact same colour. Given what I mentioned about making coloured ceramic earlier, that’s a lot harder to do than you might think. It’s a perfect follow-on from the Mojave and not only taps into the watchmaking colour of the moment, but works as a military take on the Top Gun chronograph formula. The Lake Tahoe is a bit more unusual. It’s the opposite of your blacked out stealth piece, though offers the same level of high contrast with a black dial. White on white isn’t exactly easy to read. It’s modelled slightly after IWC’s recent spacefaring Inspiration pieces, but you can actually buy it. Thank god, because of the pair this is the one I would personally opt for. Yes it’s flashy, but I love it. In fact, my only issue is the steel pushers and crowns. When the dial’s black and the pushers on the green version are black, why not black here? Both pieces are a less-than-svelte 44.5mm across, perfect for an uncompromising pilots’ watch, and come equipped with the IWC calibre 69380 automatic movement with a 46-hour power reserve.

FRONT — top guns

Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN

The smaller, 43mm Big Pilot was long overdue when it was released back in 2021, a more accessible take on the oversized aviation icon. Now, not only is it appearing as part of the Top Gun collection, but it’s also in Ceramic. Now, sure, I completely get that a professional pilots’ watch should really be a chronograph. They’re a back-up instrument but should still be able to easily and accurately time events. But I can’t help but love the clear legibility and more classical aviation good looks of this particular Top Gun entrant. It’s not the first Big Pilot in the collection of course; there was a Mojave version before this. But in direct opposition to that model’s sandy monochrome, this version’s high contrast white-on-black looks a lot more professional, particularly with the red TOP GUN lettering front and centre – essentially the oversized crown version of the original IWC Top Gun timepiece. If it doesn’t make a cameo in Maverick, there is no justice in the world.

Edition Ceratanium

THE DETAILS: •

43mm ceramic

with 100m water resistance •

82100 calibre automatic movement with 60 hour power reserve

FRONT — top guns

THE DETAILS: •

41mm ceratanium case with 100m water resistance

•

69385 calibre automatic movement with 46 hour power reserve

Functioning as a solid counterpoint to the usually macho sizing of military-style chronographs – especially ones with pretences to stealth – this shiny new 41mm chronograph is not only impeccably cool with a fully blacked-out look, but it makes best use of IWC’s proprietary Ceratanium. Even the caseback is tinted, though not so much you can’t see the in-house movement inside. Given the material, it goes without saying (again) that the case is ultra-hard and scratch resistance, much more so than the usual DLC that this type of watch would use. This is essentially a pared-back version of the 2019 Double Chronograph in the collection, and while I was a huge fan of that particular piece, making it more accessible is never a bad thing.

Pilot’s Watch 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Double Chronograph Black

alex innes

Words:

Alex Innes is in a pretty enviable position. Working with a marque as prestigious as Rolls-Royce is a dream job for any automotive designer. For Alex, it was also his first job. Not only that, but starting as a designer and being promoted to lead, he’s now head of Coachbuilding – the single most exclusive expression of what Rolls-Royce stands for. And it couldn’t come at a better time either. Rolls-Royce have been modernising over the past few years, moving away from their slightly stuffy past and amping up the cutting-edge luxury. Alex’s work in the custom field is a huge part of that. “Obviously, there are typical hallmarks that make a Rolls-Royce a Rolls-Royce,” explains Alex. “This is exactly our job as designers, understanding and defining what a Rolls-Royce is in the modern age. It is an ever-continuing pursuit.” Coachbuilding is more than ‘just’ a bespoke Rolls-Royce. Many marques out there offer custom versions of their collection, be that bespoke interiors in exotic leathers, unique paint jobs and tuned-up performance. But that’s not enough for Rolls-Royce. Sure, they offer that level of customisation (many cars are built to order after all) but they go even further, with one-off cars designed and built from the ground up. That is what Alex is in charge of. Yeah, that’s one hell of a first job. The latest expression of that pursuit is one I was fortunate enough to see in the metal at the Concorzo d’Eleganza Villa D’Este: the Boat Tail. It’s a massive, gloriously excessive ode to automative luxury and one of the most distinctive Rolls-Royce designs ever to grace the perfectly manicured lawns of a concours. At £20 million, it’s the most expensive car the marque has ever built. Where on Earth did that come from? “Back in 2017,” says Alex of the Boat Tail, “following the launch of Sweptail, there was cited interest from a collective of our luminary customers. This group of clients expressed an interest in creating something totally unique. This coincided with the first ideas in the design studio of a modern interpretation of the Boat Tail body style.” Obviously, the design of the Boat Tail

Sam Kessler

The Interview:

ALEX INNES,

Head of Coachbuilding at Rolls-Royce WE DISCUSS BESPOKE AND THE BOAT TAIL WITH ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MEN IN THE RAREFIED REALMS OF CUSTOM CARS

alex innes

draws from the Rolls-Royce archives, but that’s only a fraction of what it is. It’s not a surprise where a lot of the inspiration came from. “For Boat Tail we took specific inspiration from nautical design,” says Alex. “But I believe inspiration can come from anywhere, much of it unexpected. But I do have a personal interest in architecture.” Needless to say, the Boat Tail made a splash (pun completely intended, unfortunately) with its rear end modelled after a J-Class yacht. It wasn’t just it’s shape or concept either, but the sheer obsessive detail that went into every facet of the car. Even the deconstructed grille is a unique touch only for the Boat Tail. Indeed, calling it a car is like just calling a Greubel Forsey a ‘watch.’ It’s true, but also just a fraction of the story. It’s enough to wonder where the line

More than just another high end vehicle to impress the neighbours, the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail is the most expensive car the marque has ever built at £20 million and features design details like no other. Its rear end is modelled after a J-Class yacht, while the deconstructed grille is a unique touch only for the Boat Tail

“The unique co-creation we have with our patrons allows almost limitless potential. It’s one of the most gratifying things about Coachbuilding” 70

is. Is there anything Rolls-Royce can’t build for their clientele? Apparently not: “The unique co-creation that we have with our patrons allows almost limitless potential. It’s one of the most gratifying things about Coachbuilding – we can make anything a reality.” That potential surely makes it an exciting time to be Alex. Since the Boat Tail’s debut, I don’t doubt he’s been inundated with potential commissions

alex innes

for bigger, better, more exclusive designs – and solidified Coachbuilding as a major facet of the marque. “Coachbuild is now a permanent fixture of Rolls-Royce. We showcased the first of the three magnificent Boat Tails at Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este in October 2021. The second will make its global public debut at Villa d’Este 2022. And there’s plenty more in the pipeline, which you’ll see soon.” So other than architecture, is there any other form of mechanical excellence that Alex appreciates? As we’re a watch magazine, it’s pretty obvious where I’m angling here. “I have a huge appreciation for horology as a discipline. I’m currently wearing a Garmin day to day, as I get drawn into all the data and insights it gives you, but my go-to analogue all-round piece is a Tag Heuer Carrera.” It’s not the highest end watch in the world, but given the Carrera’s racing pedigree, it’s a solid choice for anyone working in the automotive world. Plus, it’s just a seriously cool piece and perhaps echoes Alex’s own, more modern tastes. He’s not wearing a Patek Philippe and, for the head of Coachbuilding at Rolls-Royce, that says a lot. Obviously, there’s not going to be a huge number of coach-built Rolls-Royce cars on the road. Even though the Boat Tail has kicked the profile of the service into overdrive, it is by its very nature a rarefied affair. But with Alex at the helm, we’ll be seeing a lot more of it soon.

Style \

74 /

101 /

The ultimate layer of

Calling all motor

outer elegance in time

heads, it’s time to gear

for spring

up for touring season

EDITED BY

SHANE C. KURUP & SAM KESSLER

102 /

Avoid getting hot

under the collar with a seasonal transition

76 /

Browse the brands that will help shift your wardrobe up a gear \

80 /

For menswear devotees the iconic Mille Miglia race isn’t about cars, but the coats \

90 /

Craftsmanship and understated style take centre stage in the

Momentum mode >—> Momentum is a largely unheralded facet of daily life. The ability to maintain and continue that trajectory is a skill that can help propel you and those around you further down that same road of success. Momentum keeps you upright, momentum keeps you focused, and momentum keeps you in the moment. Of course, this isn’t to say that this desire to maintain is of sole importance, as if you’re fuelled by momentum on your way to the top then there’s no harm in looking at your finest on the journey there.

Oracle Style — Apr.22

spring sunshine

STYLE — most coveted

Edited by SAM KESSLER

>—> Let’s be honest, any piece from Loro Piana is going to be an investment; the Italian paragon of fine textiles isn’t one you could ever call accessible. But if there’s any time to make that leap, it’s at the beginning of a brand new season, when you’re

LORO PIANA SPAGNA JACKET The ultimate layer of outer elegance for spring

actually going to be able to make the most of it. That said, this highlight from the brand’s SS22 collection isn’t necessarily just one for summer. Between the lightweight cashmere, flowing cut and effortless elegance, it’s one for all seasons. I do mean all-seasons. Cashmere it may be, but thanks to Loro Piana’s Rain System treatment, the otherwise delicate cloth will repel all but the most determined of April showers. I wouldn’t try it out in a storm – if only because it won’t stop the rain coming through the top or bottom – but you don’t need to keep a weather eye on the sky every time you want to take it out for a spin. And you will want to. The Spagna is a reimagining of a Loro Piana staple, and the partially-lined jacket has all the Italian flair you’d expect from an upscale aperitivo. As you’d want from a warm weather piece, the cut is flowing rather than structured, a comfort-first silhouette that allows the incredibly soft cashmere to drape more elegantly than your average jacket could ever manage. The camel colour (or Antelope, as the brand calls it) is the perfect midrange colour for dressing up or down, as good with blue denim as chinos. Sure, it’s a safe, neutral colour but that’s what makes the Spagna such a worthy investment piece. Wear it under a heavier coat or as a lightweight outer layer over a denim shirt, however you wear it the Spagna is worth every one of its 390,500 pennies. Loro Piana Spagna Jacket, £3,905, uk.loropiana.com

STYLE — style manifesto

In the

fast lane Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

Speed King

>—> Mayfair-based Connolly might have started life as a saddle maker in 1878, but in the 20th century, the atelier shifted focus from four legs to four wheels, when it began furnishing saloon interiors for Rolls-Royce, Bentley, Jaguar and Aston Martin. Today, the lifestyle brand has applied its nous in fine leatherwork and draping to its driving collection: a range of uncompromisingly luxurious apparel and accessories that captures the daring-do spirit of the golden age of motoring. So, even if you don’t have a 1926 supercharged Bentley in the garage, you can still look like you belong at Brooklands. connollyengland.com

Speed is of the essence, so they say, and the garb that goes with highvelocity pursuits certainly has an irrefutable swagger. For Oracle Time’s Momentum issue, we present the brands that you need to shift your wardrobe up a gear in 2022.

Trackside Mode

>—> Endorsements in the rag trade are more often about style over substance, but Austrian label AlphaTauri manages to deliver on both. As the fashion arm of the Red Bull empire, it not only dresses F1 maestros Pierre Gasly and Yuki Tsunoda from its own in-house racing team, Scuderia AlphaTauri, but has also designed a capsule for its Red Bull checkerboard champ, Max Verstappen. It lab-develops and patents cutting-edge materials such as TAUROBRAN, formed using a weaving technique that utilises electrical charges to produce an ultra-fine, waterproof and breathable cloth that feels more like a second skin. Put on this kit and you’ll feel every inch the alpha male. alphatauri.com

Clutch Control

>—> The driving shoe is imitated by many a copycat cobbler today, but its footprint was born on the workbench of Gianni Mostile, who patented the design back in 1963. His idea had practical grounding: the shoe’s nubbly leather base – or ‘gommino’ in the lingua franca of its creator – was designed to give motorists a firm grip on their pedals. Mostile also founded Car Shoe – the original purveyor of the style – now under the fashionable umbrella of the Prada Group. For SS22, we’re gunning for this jazzy camo pair – they’re just the thing for living la dolce vita behind the wheel of a Bugatti. Car Shoe camouflage driving loafers, £520. carshoe.com

STYLE — style manifesto

Supercar Stylings

>—> Automotive apparel is usually best left at the factory gift shop, but you can forget about fivedollar keyrings and caps with Ferrari’s latest sartorial venture – this is bona fide high-end clobber. The collection, designed by Rocco Iannone – an alumnus of Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana – is, as you’d expect, full of references to Italy’s most exalted speedster, from the more obvious lashings of logos and signature Corso red, to the less obvious use of modern automotive materials, including carbon fibre. The 52-piece collection of statement outerwear and casual separates has a bravado that speaks the language of the world’s foremost supercar in a distinctly sports luxe accent. store.ferrari.com

Café Society

>—> Any chap worth his hell-forleather salt will have Belstaff on his style agenda. Since 1924, the brand has been dressing Johnny Strabbler-types in rugged leathers and performance outerwear that make road-worthy companions for life. This season, although the café scrambler classics remain, the label has taken a softer approach with tactile suedes, pastel-hued performance memory shells and GORE-TEX jackets inspired by the great outdoors, which are ideal for the urban guy on the go. Belstaff suede Drover jacket, £1,295 belstaff.com

All Weather Gear

>—> Alaska’s 210th Rescue Squadron responds to SOS calls in some of the most inhospitable locales in the world and it was an encounter with one of its heroic recruits that inspired Massimo Rosetti to start a label that could handle Mother Nature’s uglier side. Aptly named Parajumpers – a moniker for the fast-moving elite force – its technical down-filled puffers, hybrid jackets and sporty base layers are designed with the squad’s on-job challenges in mind, but have more style credibility than anything you’ll find back in boot camp. parajumpers.it

STYLE — grazie mille

Words by

Paddy Maddison

E I Z A R G L L E! I M Italy’s famous Mille Miglia race is one of the most iconic events in motorsport history, but for menswear aficionados it’s less about the cars and more about the coats

STYLE — grazie mille

The iconic C.P. Company’s Mille Miglia jacket is instantly recognisable thanks to its trademark goggle hood and large watch-viewer window, and considered to be the finest work of Italian designer Massimo Osti, but it took a 1988 sponsorship deal for it to find fame

Mille Miglia: two words that live in the heart of any red-blooded motorsport enthusiast. To the initiated, they conjure images of elegant vintage cars, sunkissed Italian scenery and winding country roads, not to mention the odd deadly accident. But how did they find their way into the menswear vernacular? And, even more confusingly, onto the lager-soaked terraces of British football grounds? The answer, oddly enough, comes in jacket form.

First held in 1927, the Mille Miglia was a gruelling endurance race, with the world’s top drivers battling it out to cover a 1,000mile course 82

In the world of men’s fashion C.P. Company’s Mille Miglia jacket is every bit as iconic as the historic race from which it takes its name. Instantly recognisable with its trademark goggle hood and large watch-viewer window, it has inspired many a stylist over the years, spurred more than its share of imitations and, speaking from personal experience, ignited at least one lifelong obsession with outerwear. The jacket is the work of revered Italian designer, the late Massimo Osti. Many know him as the founder of luxury sportswear label Stone Island, but C.P. Company was his first and arguably most influential project. The Mille jacket is considered by many to be Osti’s magnum opus, but it wouldn’t exist as we know it today had it not been for a 1988 sponsorship deal with Italy’s most prestigious motoring event. First held in 1927, the Mille Miglia was a gruelling endurance race, with the world’s top drivers battling it out to cover a challenging 1,000-mile course in the fastest time. The route was a gargantuan loop through the heartlands of northern Italy, speeding from Brescia to Rome and back, all through the day and night, with competitors often employing sneaky tactics to gain an advantage over their rivals. In one famous instance, Italian driver Tazio Nuvolari killed his car’s headlights in the final miles of the 1930 edition and, under a cover of darkness, sped past the oblivious race leader and on to victory. The race’s most celebrated win came in 1955, when Sir Stirling Moss set an all-time record of 10 hours, seven minutes and 48 seconds in his Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR. He covered the 1,000-mile course at an eye-watering average speed of 98mph. A superhuman feat even by today’s standards, but all the more impressive when you consider that much of the course consisted of dusty, boneshaking country tracks, with dozens, if not hundreds of spectators huddled around every corner. The Mille Miglia may have survived World War II, but it failed to endure the negative PR that ensued following two

STYLE — grazie mille

STYLE — xxxxxxx

STYLE — grazie mille

Following a 25 year absence, the Mille Miglia returned in 1982 and five years later it was given a style overhaul by one of the most exciting new menswear labels around that would later be adopted by British casual subculture

STYLE — grazie mille

fatal crashes in 1957. Eleven drivers and spectators lost their lives and organisers were forced to hit the brakes. Thankfully, all was not lost. In the 1970s, around the same time that Osti was kicking C.P. Company into gear, a band of enthusiasts decided to revive the Mille Miglia as an annual re-enactment and regularity race. The second coming took place in 1982, and five years later, the organisers struck up a sponsorship deal with what was by this point one of the most exciting new menswear labels around. By 1987, Osti had grown C.P. Company into a full-blown cultural phenomena. Known for its innovative use of unusual fabrics and creative dyeing techniques, his work was lauded for its forward-

thinking approach and apparent immunity to the ebb and flow of trends. “His designs weren’t following fashion but setting their own path outside of that,” explains Ollie Evans, founder of London’s Too Hot Limited, a retailercum-creative agency that specialises in vintage C.P. Company pieces. “Based on his interest in military and workwear, his inspiration came from purely functional garments. It’s an approach that resonated with his audience. Firstly in Italy among the Paninari, who brought his work to prominence in the early-mid ‘80s, and later in the late ‘80s/early ‘90s with the British casual subculture, who truly adopted his work as their own.” It was this obsession with function

“It is a garment steeped in history and context, and the goggle hood is more popular now, 34 years later, than it has ever been” that led Osti to create the first goggle jacket. He had been studying protective hoods worn by the Japanese Civil Defence and became fascinated with the idea of incorporating lenses into a jacket. Several prototypes later, he settled on placing them in the hood, where they could be flipped down over the eyes. This unique design feature could be used to shield drivers’ eyes from rain and mud, while a watch-viewer window in the sleeve allowed them to check the time without having to take their hands off the wheel. Multiple pockets, inspired by a vintage Swiss army field jacket, could be used to store race essentials, such as maps, notes, ID cards and provisions. Osti had unwittingly created the perfect jacket for the 1988 Mille Miglia, and when he realised this, he had a custom batch specially made, handing them out to the race organisers and participants. “The original race-branded jackets given to drivers of the 1988 and ‘89 Mille Miglia events are almost mythical in their revered status among collectors,” says Evans. “They were made from beige fabric and featured a red race logo stamped onto the chest-pocket flap.” It’s from these first jackets that the Mille Miglia took its name. New variations have been released yearly ever since, and while small details change, the core design remains the same: multiple pockets, goggle hood, watch viewer. “The Mille Miglia goggle jacket has become a true icon due to its sheer originality,” says Evans. “It is a garment steeped in history and context, and the goggle hood is more popular now, 34 years later, than it has ever been. It’s on magazine covers, in music videos, fashion editorials, on the terraces and on the street. It’s instantly recognisable and there is nothing else out there quite like it.”

STYLE — casual classics

CASUAL CLASSICS

Styling by BENEDICT BROWNE

Photography by FRASER VINCENT & GABRIEL UNGURU

Whether its cars or clothes, a classic always improves with age. That’s as true of a 1980s Audi Quattro, as it is with quality menswear. They don’t need to shout to get attention; their craftsmanship and understated style speak for themselves. That’s precisely the thinking behind our shoot. Of course, it wouldn’t be our Momentum issue without pairing the looks with a serious racing chronograph or five, and to match the refined styles we’ve focused on the elegant end of the sporting spectrum from Seiko, Carl F. Bucherer, Zenith, TAG Heuer and Omega. Shot at the stunning Leez Priory and styled and modelled by the inimitable Benedict Browne, this is one for lovers of motors and understatement in equal measure.

O M EG A S P E E DMASTE R 57 ’ 40.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Calibre 9906 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £7,450, omegawatches.com

Jacket: Barn Jacket in khaki cotton canvas, £730 at Anglo-Italian Shirt: Long sleeve cotton polo shirt, £195 at Sunspel Jeans: 710 denim jeans, £220 from Resolute at Trunk Clothiers Shoes: Boston dark brown suede loafers, £395 at Crockett & Jones

STYLE — casual classics

Jacket: Fly fronted navy suede jacket, £1495 at Anderson & Sheppard Shirt: 70s stripe rugby shirt, £180 at Rowing Blazers Jeans: Ecru selvedge denim jeans, £275 at Drake’s Shoes: Finchley 2 black pebble grain loafers, £460 at Crockett & Jones

TAG H EUE R AUTAVIA C H RO N O M E T E R FLY BACK 42mm steel case with 100m water resistance • Heuer 02 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £5,800, tagheuer.com

STYLE — casual classics

CA R L F BU CHE R E R M A N E RO F LY BACK 43mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • CFB 1970 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £4,700, carl-f-bucherer.com

Jacket: Twin-Track olive waxed cotton, £795 at Private White V.C. Knitwear: Lambswool ecru crewneck jumper, £220 at Sunspel Shirt: Audley light blue cotton Oxford shirt, £120 at Trunk Clothiers Jeans: 710 denim jeans, £220 from Resolute at Trunk Clothiers Boots: Coniston slate suede boots, £450 at Crockett & Jones

STYLE — casual classics

STYLE —STYLE casual — xxxxxxxx classics

Jacket: Popover blouson brown suede, £850 at Anglo-Italian T-shirt: Classic white T-shirt, £75 at Sunspel Jeans: Bleach wash Japanese selvedge jeans, £295 at Drake’s Sneakers: Racquet white sneakers, £260 at C.QP Bag: Commuter olive canvas, £495 at Bennett Winch

Z E N I T H C H RO N O MASTE R BO UT I Q UE E D I T IO N 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • El Primero automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £10,600, zenith-watches.com

S EIKO PROSP EX SP EEDTI MER 1964 CH RO NOGRAP H RE- CREATI ON 42.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance• Calibre 8R46 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve • £2,600, seikoboutique.co.uk

Jacket: Denman navy cotton field jacket, £495 at Trunk Clothiers T-shirt: Cotton knitted sweater, £255 at Anderson & Sheppard Trousers: Needlecord ecru Japanese trousers, £295 at Drake’s Sneakers: Nimble dark brown sneakers, £295 at Harry’s of London

STYLE — casual classics

STYLE — kit bag

Full throttle Whether you’re a bona fide speed demon or aspiring Wild One, it's time to gear up for touring season Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

1/ Dior Homme Sport EDT, £69, dior.com 2/ Serengeti Wayne sunglasses, £270, serengeti-eyewear.com 3/ Bottega Veneta padded biker jacket, £3,700, mrporter.com 4/ Carhartt WIP double knee pants, £109, carhartt-wip.com 5/ Thomas Sabo 925 sterling silver cross ring, £149, thomassabo.com 6/ Vivvant Alexis suede Jodhpur boots, £278, vivvant.co.uk 7/ Versace Medusa embroidered T-shirt, £800, brownsfashion.com 8/ Ettinger Pursuits Cotswold weekend bag, £600, ettinger.co.uk 9/ Breitling Top Time Triumph Zorro Dial Chronograph, £4,500, breitling.com

101

STYLE — wardrobe champion

PAIR WITH: The perfect shirt deserves the perfect pullover and Joe Merino’s are just that. A plain, classic v-neck in extra fine Merino wool is always a wardrobe necessity and with a huge range of colours available, you’ll find one to match whichever equally comfortable shirt you eventually decide on. Joe Merino V-Neck Jumper, €97

Words by SAM KESSLER

JOE MERINO Avoid getting hot under the collar with a seasonal transition to merino wool

>—> The warmer months are almost here, which means a transitional wardrobe is becoming a necessity. Sure, that involves plenty of layering but it also means paying attention to the kinds of materials you’re wearing. The less predictable the climate – and the British weather is anything but predictable – the more importance temperature regulation becomes. And there are few better textiles in that regard than Merino Wool. Sure, like most wools,

Merino is warm and comfortable, but in the heat it works to transport sweat away from the body, both cooling and helping the… olfactory issues that might otherwise arise. When you have no idea what the weather’s going to do, there are few choices that you can trust in more. Most of us likely have a Merino wool jumper somewhere in our wardrobe, they’re a men’s style staple and perfect for the kind of layering necessary for the season. But thanks to the aptlynamed Joe Merino, you can go one step further and opt for a 100 superfine Merino Wool shirt, too. Merino Wool is most effective when right against your skin, and as offices start to look less like bureaucratic graveyards where accountants go to die, it’s worth upgrading your old under-suit go-to with something far more

102

practical, comfortable and breathable. You wouldn’t want to get hot under the collar, so to speak. Just as importantly (for those of us averse to an ironing board), woven shirts are practically wrinkle free, so you’ll look fresh even if you’re not. Hey, we don’t judge. We’re still dreaming of the days where PJs were acceptable work attire. Of course, practicality’s one thing; style is often another and, honestly, we’d prefer to look good than feel good most days. That’s not a choice we have to make here. The selection of Joe Merino shirts isn’t infinite, but it’s pretty substantial, especially when it comes to the kind of piece you’ll be wearing more formally. There’s the dark end of the rainbow, with grey, navy and a cool military hue dubbed Army Classic; then there’s bright stripes in red and khaki – not to mention every variation of

a blue shirt under the sun. The only downside perhaps to using Merino wool in a shirt is that it’s not naturally as stiff and formal as you might want. But Joe Merino’s thought of that too. There’s a subtle button that keeps it looking fresh and starched, despite being wonderfully soft. Yes, there’s something unusual about a woven shirt, let along one made from a material as gloriously soft and sumptuous as 100 superfine Merino wool. But unusual is never a bad thing, especially as, while everyone else is still getting used to the stifling shirts of yore (i.e. 2019), you’ll just be collar and cuffs away from your new favourite super soft pullover. Joe Merino shirts are priced at €130, available from joemerino.com

hands-on reviews

THE SPECS • 41mm platinum and titanium case with 30m water resistance • H1837 calibre automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • hermes.com

HERMES ARCEAU DE TEMPS VOYAGEUR Is this the coolest worldtimer around?

105

hands-on reviews

106

hermes

GMTs have always been one of the most popular additions to a timeonly timepiece, but now that we can actually travel the not-so-humble worldtimer is coming out to play more and more often, too. It’s a turn-up I’m more than happy with; one of my favourite pieces is an old Longines Worldtimer. They’re still not as common of course; fitting all timezones around the periphery of a watch is a bit more nuanced than a 24-hour scale. What is there tends to follow pretty much the same blueprint, often with a rotating inner bezel, sometimes with a hemispherical facsimile (north or south), both of which are far too prosaic for the likes of Hermes. Back in 2019, before they toned things down a bit with the phenomenally cool H08, the highlight of Hermes’ watchmaking world was the Arceau de la Lune. Rather than your traditional moonphase, it used two dials that rotated around the periphery of the watch, covering the twin moon indicators to represent both North and South hemispheres at once. It was certainly novel and made for one of the most impressive launches of the last SIHH back in 2019. It’s still one of the coolest moonphases around and, to ensure that lightning strikes twice, Hermes have used it as the inspiration behind their equally novel take on the worldtimer. Let’s not beat around the bush. The Arceau de Temps Voyageur is the coolest woldtimer we’re going to see this year. Maybe for a few years yet. In a window at 12 o’clock you have home time, in Hermes’ usual flowing script. It’s simple, easy to read and makes good use of the space – which is a necessity to let the rest of the watch do what it does – and as its in a 24-hour format, doesn’t need an accompanying day/night indicator. You’ll know if you’re waking your family up in the early hours. Next you have the worldtimer ring. Nothing too special here, it’s just a static ring – albeit one with the Hermes flagship address of 24 Faubourg Saint Honoré in place of Paris. What’s intriguing is actually how you set it. The floating dial at the centre of the watch isn’t static. Instead, as you move across the globe, it uses the red arrow at its outer edge to indicate the time zone. Hermes call the complication ‘travelling time’ which is pretty perfect. Wherever you go in the world, the Arceau will look slightly different. You might even begin to associate a touch of asymmetry to your home time. Below the dial is what at first glance you might assume to be your usual worldtimer hemisphere. I did, until I realised that the continents were nonsensical. Instead, it’s actually a design taken from Jérôme Colliard’s Planisphère d’un monde équestre silk scarf. I’m sure there’s a Hermes lover out there that appreciates that a bit more than me. What I do appreciate though is the case. The asymmetrical design was originally created in 1978 by legendary designer Henri d’Origny and, while the prominent lugs at the top of the watch have a vintage quirkiness to them, this version is

107

Wherever you go in the world, the Arceau will look slightly different. You might even begin to associate a touch of asymmetry to your home time a good deal more modern with the combination of platinum with a bead-blasted bezel in black DLC titanium. There’s also a second version in steel, with blue instead of black across the dial, but honestly, it just doesn’t quite appeal to me in quite the same way. Apparently, I have expensive tastes, no matter what my colourful microbrand collection says. Obviously, this isn’t a cheap watch either way. This version will set you back £22,270. Even for something like this, that’s a lot of money. Otherwise, it’s hard to find fault with the Arceau de Temps Voyageur. Partly, that’s because there’s not much else like it; it’s partly due to the attention to detail across the board. Even the numerals on the travelling dial are pure Parisian chic, twisting around with the hands. Sure, we’re going to see a good number more worldtimers throughout the year, but this is one that’ll still stand out a year from now. hermes.com

hands-on reviews

THE SPECS • 45.5mm O-MEGASTEEL Case with 6,000m water resistance • 8912 calibre automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • £10,060, omegawatches.com

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN ULTRA DEEP The watch that really conquered the deep returns in a shiny new (oddly-named) metal

109

hands-on reviews

110

omega

Back in 2019, Omega did something that Rolex probably weren’t too happy about: they beat their deep-sea record. Sure, James Cameron did indeed make it to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, and the Challenger Deep at that, but according to maps of the ocean floor, not quite to the exact deepest point. It’s a small difference of a few metres – and honestly, being first counts as much as being deepest – but it was enough for uber-wealthy explorer (and ponytail aficionado extraordinaire) Victor Vescovo to try his hand. And then some. Rather than just beating the record, he did so at the end of a five-dive expedition he called the Five Deeps. Billionaire indulgence it may have been, but Omega evidently sensed an opportunity and when submersible Limiting Factor headed down for each of the five dives, it carried on its outboard mechanical arm a very special Planet Ocean. Only three were made of the Ultra Deep, which managed repeated dives, the deepest of which was well over 10,000m down. Until now. Kind of. The Planet Ocean Ultra Deep isn’t quite the same as that original Mariana-conquering concept trio. For one, its depth rating is a comparatively paltry 6,000m – which, let’s be fair, is staggering by production watch standards. That’s 20,000 feet. That’s insane and anyone that actively wants to test this watch to its limit needs an intervention. However, what it loses in water resistance it gains in wearability. By losing size. The original watch was 55mm across, putting vintage military Panerais to shame. This consumer-friendly incarnation is 45.5mm, which is much more manageable, though I have to say the lug-to-lug of 56mm feels huge. Not unwearably so, but chunky enough to make the titanium variation pretty appealing. Which brings us to what else is new about the watch: O-MEGASTEEL. I’ve had a few weeks now to come to terms with how silly the new alloy sounds, but yes, that is actually what it’s called. I doubt Oystersteel sounded quite as onthe-nose when that was released. It looks and feels much like stainless steel. There’s a slight difference in colour when side-by-side with another steel watch (the Omega is slightly lighter) but otherwise it’s all in the specs. It’s 40 to 50% stronger than your average steel, is non-magnetic and has serious corrosion resistance. It’s steel on steroids. Cringe-worthy name aside, it’s a serious step forwards, so expect to see it plenty more in Omega’s collection. There are seven new references in the collection (four if you don’t count a change of strap as a new watch, which I don’t) and, while the titanium with its grey dial is the closest to the original Limiting Factor on-board clock, the blue fume is the most handsome of the lot. It really leans into the whole deep blue sea vibe (minus super-intelligent sharks), with a relatively dark colouring across the board. Paired with a black ceramic diving bezel, it’s a serious-looking diving watch for serious-looking divers. There are two options for strap, this version on a cool, textured, contrast edge rubber strap or a metal bracelet. Even if there wasn’t a £290 price difference, I’d opt for the cheaper rubber version. The strap works to bring out the dial of the blue which otherwise feels a bit lost.

111

Its depth rating is 6,000m – which, let’s be fair, is staggering by production watch standards. That’s insane and anyone that actively wants to test this watch to its limit needs an intervention With Omega pushing their Master Chronometer status ever further, it’s no surprise to see that the calibre 8912 here is also METAS-certified and almost as resistant to magnetism as the case metal. After all, if there’s one place you don’t want to be let down, it’s the crushing depths of the existentially terrifying ocean. For landlubbers that also means an appreciable 60-hour power reserve. Which is nice. Finally, there’s the price. Your standard Seamaster Planet Ocean models are already high-end, generally falling between £5,000 and £6,000 with the occasional outlier. The Ultra Deep is £10,060. That’s a significant increase. Now, it’s easy to argue that it’s worth the price. It does, after all, have 10 times the depth rating. My problem with that argument is: who’s actually going to test that? 6,000m is just too deep, meaning there can’t be much of a market for it outside of Victor Vescovo and friends. By all means let me know if I’m wrong; I don’t dive myself other than the occasional bit of snorkelling in better times, so perhaps those depths aren’t as rare as I believe them to be. But it does seem like the 6,000m rating is not much more than an Omega flex – albeit a seriously impressive one. And indeed, the Ultra Deep is an incredibly impressive timepiece. It looks and feels like the serious piece of kit it is; well-balanced despite its relatively imposing dimensions and, even if it does sound silly, the introduction of what could be a great new material for Omega. Though I would very much like to try the titanium version after this bad boy… £10,060, omegawatches.com

defying gravity

DEFYING GRAVITY FLOAT LIKE AN ASTRONAUT WITH ZENITH’S TOP TIER ZERO G COLLECTION

113

defying gravity

Gravity’s a bitch. Well, not really, it’s actually pretty useful it turns out, ask any astronaut. But in the world of escapements and balance wheels, gravity is exactly what you don’t want, causing uneven forces on the components of a watch hindering accuracy. If you’re unfamiliar with the tourbillon lore, Abraham Louis Breguet is the OG gravity hater, inventing the tourbillon way back in 1801 for use in pocket watches resting upright in shirt pockets half the day. Over the 221 years since its creation, and specifically over the last two decades, it has risen to become the darling of complications (although its status as a ‘complication’ is sometimes debated). Reserved for hautehorology manufacturers showing off their watchmaking prowess, it comes with a fitting price tag. Although Zenith are perhaps more well known for their chronograph movements, namely the iconic El Primero, they also have more than their fair share of brilliantly beautiful, high frequency tourbillons. The two latest additions to their hautehorology collection take the gravity symbolism to extreme lengths: the Defy Double Tourbillon houses two 60 second tourbillons, combined with a 100th of a second chronograph all set

against a starry aventurine dial. The star of the show however is the Zero G, which includes a patented mechanism first introduced in 2018 called the Gravity Control, which acts as a gyroscopic mount for the regulator, ensuring that it is always horizontal and therefore negating the

114

effects of gravity. A tourbillon it is not, though it does share the ethos. None of this is what makes the watches new however, that’s left down to the full sapphire cases – and what they come with. The real anti-gravity or Zero-G aspect of this collection is a once in a

defying gravity

The Zero G (right) is able to remain horizontal and negate the effects of gravity thanks to its patented Gravity Control mechanism, which acts as a gyroscopic mount for the regulator

lifetime Zero G experience. That’s right, you can literally float like Buzz Aldrin, John Glen, Tom Hanks and Leica. It’s not a sensation that many people have felt; more people have probably summited mount Everest. That is until 2004, when NovaSpace and Air Zero G teamed up to offer commercial anti-gravity flights to the paying public with half of proceeds going towards the European Space Agency to further crucial science some of which anti-gravity related. The actual experience is truly mindblowing. The process involves flying to Bordeaux (not the worst place in the world for purveyors of finery), being briefed by a specialist team, including actual astronauts, and going through a rigorous medical exam. Once you’ve gone through the briefing it’s time to hop in the modified Boeing 727-200 where you fly in the shadow of a military no-fly zone and start performing the parabolas or flight arcs that enable the weightlessness. The manoeuvre involves using three pilots at a time with one each controlling the pitch, yaw and thrust ensuring the weightlessness is as smooth and space-like as possible. Of course, there is a certain amount of kerosene burned. However, Zero-G do offset this by contributing half of all

The real anti-gravity or Zero-G aspect of this collection is a once in a lifetime Zero G experience. That’s right, you can literally float like Buzz Aldrin

proceeds to scientific research and the European Space Agency. On top of this, they financially support GERES, which invests in technological investments in developing countries, further offsetting emissions. The first parabola you experience is designed to mimic moon gravity (1/6th of Earth gravity) which you will be wholly unprepared for. As we hear the words ‘Injection’ symbolising the transition from 1.8 G (roughly the same as experienced during a rocket take off) to moon gravity, audible yelps of excitement fill the cabin and you begin to bob around a la Neil

115

Armstrong. After this, it’s two rounds of Mars gravity (1/16th of Earth gravity) then… weightlessness. During the briefing they try to explain to you that it’s a sensation that’s completely unexplainable and you only truly understand once you feel it. That’s completely true. It’s simply something that our primitive minds can’t comprehend, a transcendental feeling which, in my case, lasted for the rest of the month. It’s not something anyone is likely to forget in a hurry and offers a handful of Zenith customers a genuine way to bond with their new purchase in an unforgettable way. This kind of experience isn’t unique to Zenith of course; it’s been a quietly emerging trend for rarefied limited editions to come with some sort of money-can’t-buy once-in-a-lifetime experience. Zenith however have kicked this idea into the stratosphere with the Zero G. I won’t be forgetting it any time soon. zenith-watches.com

CULTURE — food & drink

>—>

>—>>—>>—> London has become a global capital of food. In this month’s round up of the best restaurant and bar openings in the city we’re taking a look at international fare. New restaurant concepts from Lisbon, Mexico and Peru are joined by the news that one of Japan’s premier eateries is making its way to London.

EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS

↑ CAVITA

Marylebone Cavita is the first solo project from Mexican chef Adrianna Cavita and promises that most welcome of combinations, excellent British produce with international flair. Take for example the Carlingford Rock Oysters with Clamato oil and jalapeno vinaigrette, as well as Yellow Tail Aguachile Rojo with watermelon, mezcal and ‘grasshopper’ seasoning. Prior to setting up Cavita, Adrianna has worked in kitchens like the internationally acclaimed Pujol in Mexico City. Opening early May. Keep up to date at cavitarestaurant.com

117

CULTURE — food & drink

← CHOTTO MATTE Marylebone

Chotto Matte has been a staple in Soho for a while but now they’re expanding with a second site in Marylebone, showing just how successful the project has been. Chotto Matte specialises in Nikkei cuisine, an international fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cooking. The menu will include firm favourites like sashimi and Anticucho barbecue, as well as new dishes such as robatayaki salmon with smoked jalapeño chilli. Opening later this month. Find out more at chotto-matte.com/london

↑ CAIA

Notting Hill Located just off Portobello Road, Caia is a lively wine bar, restaurant and music venue. The wines on offer are expertly curated and range from something a little different like Jurtschitsch’s Mon Blanc or Fiona Beeston’s Clos des Capucins to the more familiar, such as Querciabella’s Camartina and Domaine Martin’s Château Gloria. The basement area is also fully equipped with a killer sound system and the venue will host monthly live events. Open now. Follow @caia.london on Instagram to stay up to date

118

CULTURE — food & drink

↓ LISBOETA Fitzrovia

A Lisboeta is a person from Lisbon, so it’s little surprise that the restaurant of the same name is a love letter to the Portuguese capital. It will stock Portuguese wine, feature an extensive tascas menu and an interior designed by an architect who works in both London and Lisbon. Tascas is a traditional family style of large, communal meals common in Lisbon. These days we could all use some community and that’s exactly what Lisboeta promises. Opening spring 2022. Find out more at lisboeta.co.uk

→ OCHRE AT THE NATIONAL GALLERY Trafalgar

Ochre is a new dining concept at The National Gallery from the team behind Muriel’s Kitchen. It offers breakfasts, weekend brunch, afternoon tea and dinners for those visiting the gallery. As you might expect from its location, the menu focuses on everything great about British food, including their own luxurious version of a fish finger sandwich with beer battered hake. Or for dinner there’s West Country lamb or suckling pork. Opening this month. Book now at ochre.london

As you might expect from its location, the menu focuses on everything great about British food

119

CULTURE — food & drink

↓ THE TWENTY TWO Mayfair

The Twenty Two is a new hotel, all-day public restaurant and private members club opening at 22 Grosvenor Square. Focusing on the restaurant, it will serve modern-British menus with influence from southern Europe, while promoting quality seasonal produce, local suppliers and mindful practices. The interiors are designed by award-winning Miami designer Natalie Miyar in an opulent but welcoming style with silks and velvets. Opening spring 2022. Find out more at the22.london

Aragawa pursues perfection in a specialist area of cooking. In this case it’s their legendary Kobe beef ← ARAGAWA Piccadilly

This is an opening you definitely need to keep track of. Aragawa is one of the most prestigious restaurants in Tokyo and now it’s opening its first ever site outside of Japan. Like many high-end Japanese restaurants, Aragawa pursues perfection in a specialist area of cooking. In this case it’s their legendary Kobe beef, which has landed it on Forbes’ list of most expensive restaurants in the world. In Tokyo a set meal is upwards of £400 and now that the meat has to circumnavigate the globe, don’t expect it to be more accessible here. It’s set to open here in early May. Learn more at aragawa.jp

120

CULTURE — vodka martinis

HAKU VODKA If you’re a drinks buff, you’ve probably heard of Suntory, the company that makes iconic Japanese whisky. But what you may not know is that they also produce vodka. Birthed from the same high-quality rice that would make luxury saké, Haku’s journey stems from Kagoshima all the way to Osaka. Three separate distillations and bamboo charcoal filtering give way to this stunningly elegant and floral vodka. An abundant richness and a subtly sweet palate awaits. Side note: The Western world often assumes that white rice is a staple part of every Japanese meal, but this is actually incorrect. To this day, pure white Japanese rice is considered a luxury. It was historically reserved for worship and only for the noble classes like the Imperial Family. £32 from 31 Dover

Words: Aidy Smith

THE BEST

VODKAS FOR MARTINIS Let’s talk martinis, as this staple drink is a frequent go-to for any discerning cocktail lover. While they are traditionally shaken or stirred with gin, vodka has played an important part in their history. So, I want to focus on the vodkas that truly deserve a place in your glass. From Canada to Japan and Sweden to England, there’s a little something for everyone to whet their whistle.

123

CULTURE — vodka martinis

CRYSTAL HEAD Another bottle that will sit on your shelf as a piece of art long after you’ve explored the wonder within. Crystal Head is produced in Canada from local Canadian corn. Distilled four times and filtered seven (three of which are through Herkimer diamonds), your expectations are understandably high, and they aren’t going to be let down. Plus, the addition of Newfoundland water really does make a difference on the taste. Silky, with a kiss of citrus, vanilla and creamy white pepper. £47 from Waitrose

“

Distilled four times and filtered seven (three of which are through Herkimer diamonds), your expectations are understandably high

BELVEDERE VODKA What happens when a country makes vodka for 600 years? They get pretty good at it. Belvedere is one of the most iconic expressions deriving from Poland, arguably the vodka capital after Russia. Established in 1910, they are also one of the oldest operating Polish distilleries. Super soft and delicate with a rich velvety texture, you can expect light vanilla notes with a kiss of black pepper, gliding into a clotted cream and nutty finish. Honestly, if you’ve not had a martini with this beauty, you’re missing out! £30 from Amazon

“

Established in 1910, they are one of the oldest operating Polish distilleries

124

CULTURE — vodka martinis

GREY GOOSE One of the first vodkas I fell in love with and to this day I’m still besotted. In fact, every time I see the bottle, a glistening martini glass with a twirl of lemon is imprinted within my mind. Everything about this beauty screams French. The wheat is grown and distilled in Picardy, it’s filtered in Cognac, and the water used is even filtered through limestone from the Champagne region. Distilled only once because the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves, think sweet creamy toffee, brioche and a mouth-watering texture. A bottle of this should always be in your drinks cabinet, it’s certainly in mine. Side note: Every bottle of Grey Goose is washed with vodka before being properly filled and every cork is soaked with vodka too. They don’t do things by halves! £39 from Tesco

ABSOLUT ELYX You’ve heard of Absolut before and this is their emblem release, produced in the south of Sweden from a single estate that has been cultivating wheat since the 1400s. Suffice to say the ‘terroir’ is real. With a further nod to their heritage, all of the liquid is distilled via a vintage copper column that dates back to 1921. Vibrant, sophisticated and rather sexy in design, this smooth sensation offers white chocolate, dry spice and a macadamia, walnut and hazelnut complexity. Count me in. £35 from The Bottle Club

“

Distilled only once because the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves

125

CULTURE — vodka martinis

>—> >—> >—> Well, there you have my top tips of which vodkas to buy, now how about we explore those martini recipes. Here are three of the most frequently created. So, dip your toe in and see which one tickles your fancy. Given the theme of this issue though, just remember not to drink and drive.

Classic Dry Martini • • •

60ml vodka 1 tbsp dry vermouth Olive or lemon peel to garnish

Pop the vermouth in your chilled glass, swirl around and discard (this lines the glass with vermouth). Pop your vodka into a cocktail shaker full of ice and shake. Strain into the chilled martini glass and garnish with a twist of lemon peel or olive on a cocktail stick. TIP: If you don’t want to shake, just stir all of the ingredients in your shaker half full of ice.

Dirty Martini • • •

•

70 ml vodka 10ml vermouth 10-15ml of olive juice / brine (add more to your liking) 3 olives for garnish

Pop all of your ingredients into a shaker full of ice and shake. Strain into a chilled martini glass, drop one olive into the bottom of the glass and garnish the drink by placing the remaining two olives on a cocktail stick. TIP: If you don’t want to shake, just stir all of the ingredients in your shaker half full of ice.

Gibson Martini • • •

70 ml vodka 5ml vermouth Cocktail onions

Add all of your ingredients to a shaker full of ice and shake. Strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish with two cocktail onions on a cocktail stick. If you want to up the game, lightly fry your cocktail onions in a pan with a little truffle oil, or smother them in truffle oil before using a blow torch to char. TIP: If you don’t want to shake, just stir all of the ingredients in your shaker half full of ice.

Aidy Smith is an award-winning drinks expert, writer, and presenter of The Three Drinkers TV Series on Amazon Prime. Follow him @Sypped

126

british bulldog

128

british bulldog

The Aston Martin

Bulldog

AN AUTOMOTIVE LEGEND OVER FOUR DECADES IN THE MAKING GETS READY TO RIDE AGAIN

Words:

129

Simon de Burton

british bulldog

130

british bulldog

Any supercar worthy of the name will crack 200mph these days - but 44 years ago the ‘double ton’ existed only in a realm of performance inhabited by the quickest of purpose-built racers. In 1978, for example, Ferrari unveiled its V12-engined 512 BB with a top speed of 188mph, making it far and away the fastest street-legal car on the market (although an independent test by Autocar revealed that 163mph was nearer the truth.....). So, to say Aston Martin was ambitious in planning to create a road car that was genuinely capable of hitting 200mph in the same year is an understatement, especially since inflation was running at almost 10% and fuel prices were so high that even the wealthy thought twice about buying a gas-guzzler. But that didn’t deter the British marque’s then managing director Alan Curtis, who had a plan to return Tickford (the coach building company acquired by Aston in 1955) to its original role as an engineering subsidiary capable of providing specialist services to other vehicle makers. And what better way to demonstrate its abilities than to build the quickest, most radical-looking car on the market? The project was code-named DPK901 - and quickly shortened in-house to K9, a name that was on every sci-fi fan’s lips thanks to the robotic dog that had debuted the previous year in the hit TV series Dr. Who. Officially, however, the car was dubbed ‘Bulldog’ by Curtis after the Scottish Aviation Bulldog two-seater training plane in which he travelled the country on business. But Curtis didn’t need to look far to find a designer to pen the lines of the ambitious new creation. That would be the eccentric William Towns, creator of the AMV8 (the successor to the DB6) as well as the extraordinary, wedge-shaped Lagonda that had taken Aston Martin into the luxury saloon market in 1976. Measuring 15 and a half feet long and powered by Aston’s trusty 5.3 litre V8 engine, its head-turning looks and lavish appointments made it exactly the sort of car beloved of the Middle Eastern oil

Designed by William Towns, the man behind the successor to the DB6 and the wedge-shaped Lagonda, the Bulldog’s head-turning looks were complemented by Aston’s trusty 5.3 litre V8 engine and showcased on a recent tour aboard HMS Prince of Wales

sheiks who (thanks to those soaring fuel prices) were about the only people who could actually afford to run one. Towns left Aston Martin after creating the Lagonda in order to chance his arm as a freelance designer, and on that basis he was asked back to render Bulldog - the initial construction of which was so secret that it took place in the private workshop of one of the firm’s metal fabricators under the supervision of Aston’s head of engineering, Mike Loasby. What the pair were essentially tasked to do was make a low-flying, two-door, hyper-sports version of the Lagonda with a wedge-shaped front, a vast windscreen, a length of 15-and-a-half

To ensure Bulldog would crack the magic and elusive 200mph, it was decided to again use the 5.3 litre V8, but this time mid-mounted 131

feet and a height of just 43 inches. But the project stalled after Loasby quit Aston Martin to join the fledgling DeLorean company, leaving the job of finishing Bulldog to his former colleague Keith Martin, who got a dedicated space back at ‘the works’ and a team comprising two sheet metal workers, two fitters and two others who ‘did a bit of everything’. To ensure Bulldog would crack the magic and elusive 200mph, it was decided to again use the 5.3 litre V8, but this time mid-mounted and with the addition of twin Garrett AiResearch turbochargers. The result: an estimated SEVEN HUNDRED horsepower. In a road car. In 1978..... In just eight months the hand-built car was ready for a shakedown run at the famous Millbrook proving ground, where the aptly-named Martin effortlessly cracked 135mph within a few laps, only slowing down when Bulldog’s temporary front panel was ripped-off by the wind pressure.

british bulldog

132

british bulldog

The car was officially ‘launched’ to the international motoring press in March 1980, after which further testing helped it reach 172mph at the Motor Industry Research Association (MIRA) test track where. Then in May of the following year, it came tantalisingly close to its goal with a verified speed of 191mph. But then Aston Martin was sold, Curtis left and his replacement - the shrewd and ebullient Victor Gauntlett - decided it would be prudent to end development of Bulldog and to sell it in order to raise funds to prop-up the firm’s precarious finances. A Saudi prince soon came forward with the necessary £130,000 (which he handed over in the form of traveller’s cheques) and duly headed-off towards London - blissfully free of the road tax, number plates and insurance required by UK law. But within days, Bulldog was returned with a blown engine and wrecked gearbox. His highness had, apparently, shifted from top gear down to second at a somewhat illegal speed, trashing the carefully-built, twin-turbo motor in the process. After being rebuilt, the Prince exported the unique machine to America where he kept it among a collection of other supercars, occasionally using it for high-speed blasts and drag races on closed roads in the Arizona desert. Bulldog then spent decades out of the public eye before first re-appearing at the 2009 Goodwood Festival of Speed, having been quietly acquired by a Far-East-based collector. It then disappeared again until 2013 when it drove through central London as a key element of Aston Martin’s centenary celebrations, six years after it was bought in an under-the-radar deal by American collector Phillip Sarofim. Sarofim, a wealthy entrepreneur who owns both the futuristic Lancia Stratos Zero and the Meyers Manx beach buggy brand, immediately entrusted the by

UK restoration firm CMC have restored the car to its original livery, which is complemented by a rich, chocolate brown leather interior (above) that was cut from an original hide left-over from the 1978 build

Bulldog then spent decades out of the public eye before reappearing at the 2009 Goodwood Festival of Speed, having been quietly acquired by a Far-East-based collector 133

then sorry-looking Bulldog to top UK restoration firm CMC in Shropshire for a full and comprehensive rebuild. And now, more than two years later, the car looks resplendent in its original silver-grey over off-white livery, which is complemented by a rich, chocolate brown leather interior that was cut from an original hide left-over from the 1978 build. Its mechanics, meanwhile, have not merely been rebuilt, but significantly upgraded using modern turbochargers, design faults have been ironed-out and safety shortcomings eradicated - with the result that, last December, Bulldog was pronounced ‘restoration of the year’ by the Royal Automobile Club. All that now remains is for this unique example of 1970s automobile excess to finally broach that magical 200mph barrier - something that it is set to do later this summer with none other than long-standing Aston Martin Racing endurance driver Darren Turner at the wheel. One thing’s for sure - we can’t wait to hear it bark in anger.....

BACK — extraordinary motors

Edited by SAM KESSLER

THE RAREST, MOST EXTRAORDINARY MOTORS IN EXISTENCE

>—> >—> >—> The Bulldog may have one hell of a highspeed story to tell, but it’s not the only one-off car that never quite made it to fully-fledged production. In fact, there’s a double handful of cars out there with similar stories, albeit ones far less likely to be resurrected any time soon. Still, even if their story ended once they rolled off the production line, these are the kind of cars that serious collectors will swoon over, for their beauty, their rarity or, most of the time, both. Sometimes unique, often stunning and always the kind of car that’s a shoo-in at a concours or two, these are among the rarest, most extraordinary motors in existence.

135

The Fangio 300 SL Roadster This one’s more about provenance than model. Argentine racing driver Juan Manuel Fangio was a legend. He won an extraordinary number of races in his time behind the wheel for everyone from Chevrolet to Alfa Romeo to Ferrari. Yet he became most synonymous with Mercedes-Benz, not just because of his time on the track, but because off it he drove this 300 SL Roadster. Not this model; this exact car. It was his gift from the marque for his racing retirement and, until recently, was a prized part of El Maestro’s museum in Balcare. This is a single-owner sports car where said owner happens to be among the most celebrated drivers of all time. It also happens to be absolutely stunning.

BACK — extraordinary motors

The Oldsmobile F-88 A pet project of Harley Earl, the automotive legend behind General Motors’ incredible success in the 1930s and the breathtaking Chevrolet Corvette, he was also the Oldsmobile F-88, which was an absolute stunner. Perhaps too much of one. The two-seat roadster, it turned out, was good enough to threaten the Corvette and so, after four were built, it was shut down for good. Today only one of the cars - order #2265 – survives. The car sold back in 2005 for a then record breaking $3.24million, before being sold along with the museum it was placed in back in 2019.

The car sold in 2005 for a then record breaking $3.24million, before being sold along with the museum it was placed in

Ford GT40 MKIII When you take one of the most legendary Le Mans racers ever built and turn it into a road-only car, you get the Ford GT40 MKIII. There was more room for luggage, softened shock absorbers and an altogether better on-road experience at the expense of track performance. There was also an ashtray. Because of course there was. All those changes added up to a GT40 that looks significantly different from the MKI (which you could use on the road if you wanted) meaning not many of them were ever actually built. The more expensive initial price didn’t help either. In the end, only seven of these beauties ever made it to customers, with four left-hand drive, three right. That translates to a price tag in the region of £4 to £5million.

136

BACK — extraordinary motors

Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder SWB Named after its most successful market, barely 100 of these were ever built which, for a manufacturer like Ferrari, makes for one of the most sought-after cars ever to grace a beautiful Italian road. Pretty much every time one of these comes to auction it makes headlines by either breaking records or simply being one of the most beautiful cars in show/sale/existence. That’s especially true of the racier short wheel base (SWB) version, which had disc brakes, more power and a lighter chassis. While the fake version in Ferris Beuller’s Day Off (which sold for 400K in 2020) likely had nothing to do with it, prices for these are now around the £15 million mark.

Pretty much every time one of these comes to auction it makes headlines by either breaking records or simply being one of the most beautiful cars in existence Porsche 916 While not unique, the Porsche 916 is certainly among the rarest in the marque’s historical catalogue. Only 11 were built in 1972 and only one was ever actually shipped. It was a damn good car with an incredible top speed for the period of 145mph, and was generally the most advanced car in Porsche’s stable. Unfortunately, the 911 was just too successful and, priced almost 50% higher, there just wasn’t a market for the 916. Now there very much is, if its auction prices are anything to go by.

137

CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Ken Kessler

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO:

LEMANIA CHRONOGRAPHS Lemania’s military chronographs might be unheralded and unbranded, but their calibre certainly isn’t 139

CULTURE — lemania chronographs

The formerly common, but now rare black dial chronograph (below, right) was issued to Royal Navy navigation officers and is priced between £3,000 to £5,000, but it’s the white dial model (below) made for Royal Navy nuclear submarine officers that attracts collectors and commands prices of around £8,000 on a good day in auction

140

CULTURE — unsung heroes

Like Clint Eastwood’s legendary Man With No Name, two of the most coveted military chronographs of all-time are devoid of model identification. The legends on the dials tell you that they came from Lemania, but there are no model designations. There was no need for them, for they are true tool watches, designed for form over function. Instead, they are known strictly by the branches of services for which they were devised. And these chronographs aren’t merely sought after: they are still influencing chronograph designers today.

While Lemania was better known for movements than whole watches, it did produce complete timepieces, including one of the Dirty Dozen. The attraction for these chronographs, among all the watches issued by Lemania and military chronographs in general, is enhanced by something curious: Lemania’s chronograph calibres – whether left untouched or modified to suit the clients – found their way into timepieces from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and, perhaps most notably, Omega. Yes, the basis for the Omega Speedmaster is the Lemania Calibre CH 27, so the bloodline is noble in both directions. “Bloodline” suggests family, and there is a link between Omega and Lemania. Omega is, of course, the star brand of the Swatch Group. That conglomeration of brands has origins far older than the merger in 1983 of ASUAG and Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (SSIH), in the wake of the quartz crisis. Lemania was founded by Alfred Lugrin in 1918 as Lémania-Lugrin SA to specialise in the production of chronographs, but the Great Depression created global economic woes. This led to Omega joining forces with Tissot in 1930, pooling their technical strengths and their markets. Two years later, Lémania gained a seat on the board of SSIH. Lemania remained a chronograph specialist, supplying the British military, among others during the 1940s through the 1970s. The two treasures seen here are, with black dial, the model issued to Royal Navy navigation officers and Fleet Air Arm pilots. It was once common, but the rise in collectormania has pushed prices up to the £3,000 to £5,000 bracket. In terms of size, functionality and looks, it is impossible to fault, its charm enhanced by the lume on this watch aging to a crème brulee hue. It’s the white dial model, which by virtue of rarity, can command as much as £8,000 on a good day in auction. It was made for Royal Navy nuclear submarine officers, hence the total absence of lume material, which would upset radioactivity readings. But don’t despair if you fall in love with them: the new chronographs from Vertex are dead ringers. As a post script, in the late 1990s, decades after the birth of the Breguet XX and the heyday of the Lemania chronographs, the revived Breguet would be the brand within the Swatch Group that absorbed Nouvelle Lemania.

Lemania’s chronograph calibres found their way into timepieces from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and, perhaps most notably, Omega 141

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS A BRITISH UNDERD0G, AN EYE-CATCHING HERITAGE BRAND AND THE WATCH THAT CONQUERED EVEREST ALL GO UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

142

IN FOCUS — underd0g

BRITISH UNDERD0G FLIES THE FLAG FOR WHIMSY Why keeping things British matters to the homegrown success story

One of the greatest success stories of the past few years is Studio Underd0g. If you’ve not heard of the upstart British microbrand, I honestly don’t know where you’ve been. Evidently not reading Oracle Time, so shame on you. Their uniquely colourful (big) eye for design has captured the imaginations of plenty of watch lovers that, like me, were starting to feel stuck in the doldrums of blue, black and, just maybe, grey. Part of that eye has always been turned towards the kind of British whimsy that helped us create the greatest ice cream flavour in existence (second to rum raisin of course). Indeed, Mint Ch0c Chip found its way into Studio Underd0g’s pantheon of colourways, alongside the subtler Desert Sky and the incredible Watermel0n with its juicy combo of pink and green. There’s a lot to love just on the surface. But, let’s be honest, surface-level appeal can only take you so far, no matter how iconoclastic your designs. That’s as true for Studio Underd0g as anyone else. So, rather than merely drawing inspiration from the colours of a British summertime, the studio’s founder Richard Benc has opted to start practicing what he aesthetically preaches. Now, don’t expect that to mean in-house movements built to order in… where’s a thematic alternative to Henley? Let’s say Oxford. The investment capital needed to do that, the amount of effort, manpower and sheer money needed to make it a reality would put the average Studio Underd0g timepiece well out of reach of most of us. That’s entirely against the point of the brand. Instead, they’ve done what they can to ensure that everything feasible is British. Firstly, that’s the straps. The brand’s worked with The Strap Tailor, AKA David Richards, in the past, but now it’s happening on a permanent basis. Given the quality of the leather involved, that’s a serious value add to an already under-priced watch. Next up is Underd0g’s new partnership with Horologium. The brainchild of Raphael Pfund and Raquel Palmieri, Horologium is a British-based workshop that specialises in servicing, maintenance and generally making sure your watches are working perfectly. As an extra assurance of quality, every Studio Underd0g piece will now go through Horologium’s workshop for a full check, inside and out. And it’s a benefit owners will actually be able to appreciate, as the watches will now come with their very own report card with a fair bit more detail than ‘C in maths’. It will mean a slight increase

The patriotic team at Studio Underd0g have tried ensure that everything feasible is British in the creation of the Mint Ch0c Chip, with leather straps from The Strap Tailor and a service from British-based workshop, Horologium

The point is to keep things British where you can, continue outsourcing where you have to and to offer one of the best value timepieces around in price – but far, far closer to £100 than £1,000, and not enough to infringe on their value status. There’s obviously still a long way to go before Studio Underd0g is as British as Roger Smith, but that’s not the point. The point here is to keep things British where you can, continue outsourcing where you have to and to offer one of the best value timepieces around without compromising why you made them in the first place. That’s a lot to put on a new strap and a quality check, but it matters. Find out more at underd0g.com

143

IN FOCUS — duckworth prestex

DUCKWORTH’S TRUE COLOURS

We talk to the industry veteran behind eye-catching British heritage brand Duckworth Prestex More often than not, a microbrand is built by a collector; someone that sees a hole in the market for the kind of timepiece they want and can’t find. Unfortunately, that doesn’t always lend itself to the kind of expertise actually needed to make said brand a success. Neil Duckworth however is not that kind of founder. In fact, he’s been an industry

144

stalwart for nearly half a century, whether that’s as retailer, distributor or in-house at TAG Heuer. In short, if there’s one guy that knows the market, it’s Neil, which goes a long way to explaining why his own start-up watch brand, Duckworth Prestex, has been killing it recently. Between their retro cushion cases and eye-catching colours, it’s a range that’s been doing better than any microbrand could hope for. Still, it’s also a brand that didn’t suddenly appear from thin air, no matter how sudden its impact.

IN FOCUS — duckworth prestex

“I started working at the family shop, Prestons, back in… must have been 1975 or 76, when I was 21. I went to Switzerland to learn about watches (like many people did back then) and helped out in the shop. They’ve been around since 1869 and would, like many retailers, buy pocket watches and put their name on them.” Essentially, they were white-labelling Swiss watches and, if you trusted the retailer, you’d trust them to offer fine timepieces in their self-titled collection. As time moved on, they transitioned from pocket watches to the cushion cases typical of the 1930s, all with Prestons on the dial. Then, they went one step further and, rather than stick to their own name, opted for Prestex on the dials. “It just sounded more like a watchmaker,” said Neil. “Ex as a suffix was incredibly popular. It sounded luxurious, Latin and modern, hence Rolex, Timex, Vertex. Even Kleenex. As it’s now my brand, I wanted to add my name to the dial, too. It’s a little unwieldy but no more so than something like Vacheron Constantin!” So, after years of working for other brands in the industry, when Neil finally came around to creating his own watches, the brand, the story and most importantly the name were already there. But in which direction to take it? There are plenty of heritage British brands around and standing out could be hard. “I didn’t want anything too old fashioned, but a fusion. I wanted to bring together the vintage, cushion cased watches we produced back in the 1930s but with a modern twist. So, I made the cases a little larger and went for a splash of colour.” For me, those colours are what Duckworth Prestex is all about. Full disclosure, I own the Verimatic in orange and it’s probably my go-to daily wearer at the moment. Between the textured look of the dial and the slight fume from bright orange to ruddy black, it’s a stunner. Sure, the more vintage-looking Boltons are nice in a classical, Fears-adjacent kind of way, but the Verimatic models stand apart. “I wanted to have the same sort of washed-out colours as the kind of vintage cars you’d find roaming around Miami”, explains Neil. “When I was a kid, I used to play with Dinky cars and they were always those kinds of blues, oranges, pinks. That stuck with me.” And indeed, there is something about old, impossibly long Cadillacs about the Verimatic’s hues, especially with the fume effect like a faded car bonnet. Yet what really sets them off is the twist of colour – the yellow hand on the blue version and the blue hand on the orange. “That I took from Paul Smith. If I could afford his suits, I’d have many more of them. He always

As an industry stalwart for nearly half a century, Neil Duckworth has been keen to embrace the new in designs for his cushion cased watches, but with a twist, so he chose to make the cases a little larger and added splashes of distinctive and bold colour

“I wanted to have the same sort of washed-out colours as the kind of vintage cars you’d find roaming around Miami” manages to put a twist of colour in his designs somewhere, small but eye-catching and I wanted the same effect.” The thing is, it’s not just the cool colours and cushion cases that separate Prestex from other microbrands. Neil being an industry vet, he’s leveraged his contacts to make sure that Duckworth Prestex is one of the few you can actually find in a bricks-and-mortar retailer. Don’t worry though, there’s barely a hint of the usual retail mark-up and they’re still incredibly affordable. The flagship Verimatic models will set you back just £595, with the pocket-watch inspired Bolton just a touch higher at £625. With incredibly appealing prices, a plan for Bond villain-esque global domination through retailers and a pipeline that includes GMTs, divers and rectangular watches among others, Duckworth Prestex will likely be on micro aficionado’s lips more and more in coming years. Even if we’re more likely to shorten it to just, Prestex. Find out more at duckworthprestex.co.uk

145

IN FOCUS — sherpa

Sherpa have summited Everest and now face the greater challenge of competing in a crowded marketplace with the Ultradive and OPS, which are modelled on the Sherpa super compressor dive watches from 1968

146

IN FOCUS — sherpa

THE WATCH THAT CONQUERED EVEREST

The modern (north) face of a legendary tool watch pays tribute to not just the Sherpa name, but the people It’s pretty well known by now that Rolex was the first watchmaker to summit the tallest peak in the world, while on the wrists of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. It’s an incredible achievement and one that nobody can detract from. Yet while they were first, they weren’t the only watchmaker to stick their flag on the mountain. We’ve already delved into the history of Enicar in a previous issue, so I’ll stick to what’s relevant here: namely that they summited in 1956, three years after the watch with the crown. However, it was such an achievement that the brand opted to begin calling the model that would become their most iconic by a name inextricably linked with Everest: Sherpa. Part homage to the climbers that made the expedition possible, part a nod to the watch’s reliability, the Sherpa was soon Enicar’s flagship. Vintage models are still incredibly collectible to this day, though unfortunately the same can’t be said of modern Enicar. The name is still on the occasional dial, but not nearly in the same spirit as their mountain-conquering tool watch. So, decades after the Sherpa first summited Everest, Swiss-born engineer Martin Klocke decided it was about time the legend made a comeback. Yet it wasn’t the 1950s model that caught Martin’s attention. Instead it was a much later piece, but one that arguably captured more of the soul of the vintage Sherpa watches: the Sherpa super compressor dive watches from 1968, now transformed into the modern Ultradive and OPS. Both pieces offer the dual crown and internally rotating bezel that have come to define the aesthetics of a Super Compressor, but with an emphasis on the chunky, utilitarian feel that you’d expect from the name. More importantly, they both have the bayonet compressor lock closure made famous by the originals. In short, as original Sherpa dive watches become ever rarer and yet more popular among tool watch aficionados, the Ultradive and OPS are about as close to the iconic design as it’s possible to get. Not that everything here is original of course. It goes without saying that the insides have undergone a much-needed improvement over their true vintage counterparts. While the style’s timeless, watchmaking has moved on mechanically from the 1960s. So, the movements here are based on the workhorse Sellita Calibre SW200-1 automatic. I say based on because Sherpa have added an almost imperceptible change to the movement.

Prayer wheels are a common sight in Tibet, spinning in monasteries, sending out love, wisdom and compassion. Well, one wheel is much like another, so Klocke decided to pay homage to the region’s traditions with his own take on the prayer wheel. The mantra OM MANI PEME HUNG has been microscopically engraved on two of the wheels so that, as they turn throughout the day, month and year, they too send out good vibes in line with Buddhist tradition. It’s also worth noting that in this instance Sherpa is more than an adopted name. A percentage from every sale goes directly to supporting various projects in the Sherpa regions of Nepal, actively improving the lives of those from whom the watches draw inspiration. Enicar may not have been the first brand to summit Everest, but they more than anyone embraced the rugged mountain and the people that called it home. Now, well over 65 years later, that same mountainconquering spirit and the culture that helped it grow has been encapsulated in Sherpa. For out more at sherpawatches.com

147

BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS:

MICROBRAND

• 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko NH35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • £275, avi-8.co.uk

CORNER Whether driven by a vintage propellor or a cutting-edge engine, there are plenty of microbrands for whom speed is everything. edited by: SAM KESSLER

Avi-8

AV-4090 Spitfire Smith Automatic

Dedicated to Joseph Smith, the man behind the legendary Spitfire, Avi-8’s latest timepiece amps up their usual aviation flair with plenty of touches inspired by the aircraft itself. From the elliptical case, a nod to the iconic shape of the Spitfire, to the dial which would be at home in any vintage cockpit, the Spitfire Smith Automatic is a more-than-fitting tribute. Available in a quartet of colourways (including a supremely cool military green), there’s a lot to love, even if you don’t spend your weekends tinkering on a vintage plane. avi-8.co.uk

151

BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS:

• 44mm (46mm with body kit) stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota 9100 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £1,368, limited to 305 pieces, recwatches.com

REC

901 RWB Rotana More Tokyo Drift than REC’s usual racing fare, this supremely cool, performancestyled watch takes its cues from the overtuned purple 911 of street racer Akira Nakai. This being REC, it includes a piece of the car in its construction, but its also uses design elements from the car to create a racing watch like you’ve never seen before. It’s bold and it’s big, even bigger with the custom wide body kit available. It may be taking the themes of the car a bit too literally, but it’s hard not to appreciate the audacity. recwatches.com

Autodromo Group B Series 2 Aqua

Closer to mint green than any usual aqua, this new Miami Vice-tinted take on Autodromo’s signature racing style in the Group B Series 2 makes for an eye-catching ode to the last romantic era of motorsport. Between the finely machined, industrial performance case and that intense neon dial with plenty of yellow flashes, this is arguably the coolest piece Autodromo have produced – which, honestly, is saying a lot. autodromo.com

THE SPECS:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota 9015 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $975 (approx. £740), autodromo.com

152

BACK — microbrand corner

THE SPECS:

• 38.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • ST-1901 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • £500, limited to 50 pieces, underd0g.com

Studio Underd0g Aubergine

What began as an April Fool’s joke around a certain vegetable-based emoji is now coming to fruition in earnest: the aubergine-hued take on the Studio Underd0g big-eye chronograph. In a style that’s become synonymous with the British brand, the new timepiece, created in collaboration with Fratello, is a mix of quirky and cool in equal measure – though this particular piece has an extra reason to buy beyond its unusual look: charity. Profits from the Aubergine will be going to testicular cancer charities, which I’m sure any guy out there can appreciate. underd0g.com

153

BACK — microbrand corner

SYE

MOT1ON Chronograph Bullitt With a name like Start Your Engine, you might assume you know what to expect from this particular microbrand. And you’d be right: solid racing timepieces with a distinct edge in a number of classic automotive colourways. There’s a panda of course, but with a slightly subtler (and cinematic) nod to the high octane with a grey green dial similar to the iconic Mustang. Powered by a mecha-quartz movement, this one’s all about the performance cool. syewatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 40.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko TMI VK64 Meca-Quartz movement • £546, limited to 100 pieces, syewatches.com

Omologato Panamericana

This retro slice of (pan) Americana from British racing watch brand Omologato not only has the genuine trademark for the legendary name, but lives up to it. Granted, it’s a quartz piece, but with looks this good – and prices this affordable – we’re more than happy to give it a pass. The TV-shaped case is pure 80s while the bright colours (particularly the Rojo de Carreras) make for an eye-catching flash of write-mounted automotive nostalgia. omologatowatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Ronda 3540 Meca-Quartz Movement • £395, omologatowatches.com

154

BACK — microbrand corner

Zero West DB1 Lancaster

If there’s one military mission in history that understood momentum, it’s Operation Chastise – better known as the Dambusters. If the story sounds familiar, that’s because Bremont recently released a tribute to the mission; but this is the home turf of fellow British brand Zero West. And yes, theirs too includes metal from a genuine DB-1 Lancaster. Paired with the brand’s signature lugs and boldly machined case, this is a big, chunky ode to one of the most legendary aircraft in history. It’s enough to make you want to watch the film yet again. zerowest.watch

THE SPECS:

• 44mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW200-1 ‘Top Premium Grade’ automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • £3,500, limited to 200 pieces, zerowest.watch

THE SPECS:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Miyota 6S21 Quartz movement • $319, (approx. £240), stratonwc.com

Straton

Yacht Racer Quartz Regattas may be one of the more rarefied forms of racing, but watches associated with them do tend to have a distinctive palette of blues, reds and whites. Straton’s Yacht Racer is a much more accessible take on that particular nautical style than we’ve seen before. Available in six colourways (including a seriously cool green and yellow) and sitting pretty in a retro cushion-cased hunk of steel, it’s an eye-catching timepiece that you won’t necessarily mind risking overboard mid-race. stratonwc.com

155

watches and accessories

JEAN ROUSSEAU – ALCANTARA

O r a c le

RECOMMENDS WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

Premium French watch strap maker Jean Rousseau have announced a new line of Alcantara straps in a variety of playful colours. Alcantara is a vegan, leather alternative that is soft to the touch but retains leather’s durability and resistant qualities. In blue, green or grey, they pair wonderfully with a wide variety of watches, especially those with a classic design. £115, available from jean-rousseau.com

ZULUDIVER – FUNDRAISER FOR UKRAINE It goes without saying that events in Ukraine are distressing and you can do your bit by supporting the numerous efforts to make a difference. Zuludiver have released a charitable edition of their 284 rubber diving strap in the colours of the Ukrainian flag. All profits will go to the Red Cross Ukraine Humanitarian Appeal. The strap itself is made in Italy with a classic design, resistant to salt-water and UV, ensuring consistent colour use after use. £34, available from zuludiver.com

TIDLÖS – MARIN BLACK CARBON The Marin from Tidlös captures the primary elements of Scandinavian design, while also maintaining superb ruggedness in-keeping with the dynamic landscape of Scandinavia. The 43.9mm diameter stainless steel case has a helium escape valve and comes with 500m water resistance, which is an impressive feat considering it has an exhibition caseback. There are a number of styles available but this black carbon fibre option really captures its sporty essence. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré movement. £1,090 available from tidloswatches.com

LINLEY – DUBAI SKYLINE WATCH BOX When it comes to storing your luxury watches, you need a watch box just as luxurious. And there are few containers as spectacular as a Linley Jewellery Box with a full marquetry lid. This version depicts the skyline of Dubai including the Mariana Torch, Princess Tower and Burj Khalifa set against a glorious pink sycamore background. Alternative designs are available, including the London skyline. The interior is grey suede with removable trays ideal for storing cufflinks and watches. £6995, available from davidlinley.com

156

Avi-8 – Spitfire Smith Automatic It’s needless to say that the Spitfire is still an icon of the 20th century as a stylish and practical aircraft steeped in history. However, the Chief Designer of the plane gets altogether less recognition, something Avi-8 are planning to change with the Spitfire Smith Automatic, named after the man himself, Joseph Smith. It has a 42mm stainless steel case housing the NH35 automatic calibre and there are four colourways inspired by famous Spitfire factories to choose from. £275-£290, available from avi-8.co.uk

style

Reiss – Hope Waistcoat Gareth Southgate may not have led England to the trophy but he has led Britain into a waistcoat renaissance. The Hope waistcoat from Reiss is a modern fit ideal for travel and staying smart on the go. It’s crafted from a wool-blend with a subtle stretch for comfort. The design has a single breasted silhouette in black with six buttons. Smart, simple style dominates, proving the well-known fact that your greatest asset is a well-tailored fit. £128, available from reiss.com

Nobis – Camden Trench While spring means warm weather is on the way, as this is Britain we’re due for several buckets of rain first. Getting the right coat is vital to say the least. Nobis are a super stylish technical wear brand that are making big waves right now, their global ambassador is Simu Liu who recently smashed the box office as the titular character in Marvel’s Shang Chi. The Nobis Camden Trench combines style with function, with a double breasted design, belted waist and faux horn buckle. A modern take on the classic trench. £695, available from nobis.com

ROSS OLIVER – BRIDGE-BIT LOAFERS As we enter the seasonal transition, Ross Oliver’s Bridge-bit loafers offer the perfect blend of durability, versatility and style for the spring months. Their inaugural collection is Britain’s first handmade loafer to be constructed from high quality and luxurious cactus leather, in a bid to merge traditional British craft with modern materials. Providing excellent comfort, looks and capability in all weather conditions. Shop the full, award nominated collection at rossoliver.uk and follow them on Instagram: @rossoliverfootwear

VIVVANT – LONDON BROWN PATINA JODHPUR BOOTS Vivvant use signature British design with Italian craftsmanship to create sophisticated footwear for the modern, urban man. The Alexis Brown Patina Jodhpur Boots are handcrafted in Florence with a hand applied patina effect that provides masculine character and that wellloved appearance that’s so desirable with leather boots. They’re completed with a stud fastener for comfort and security on the foot, as well as Vivvant’s signature triple V leather stitch logo on the back. £288, available from vivvant.co.uk

157

MYRQVIST - ÄNGSÖ BLACK SUEDE LOAFERS Spring is here at last so it’s time to break out the loafers. These are the Ängsö Black Suede from elegant Swedish brand Myrqvist, proof that Scandinavian design is all but unbeatable. They have a lovely black suede, single monk strap construction finished with a fringed tongue. The strap is made from contrasting grained leather that makes it stand out, while the sole is also leather. It’s all brought together by a silver buckle adding a spark of colour. Ängsö is also available in brown. £239, available from myrqvist.co.uk

technology

MARSHALL – MOTIF A.N.C HEADPHONES Marshall is the biggest name in rock and roll sound quality. From the biggest venues hosting 10,000 people to a private concert in your bedroom, Marshall headphones provide front row tickets to your favourite band any time you want them. The Motif A.N.C are their flagship wireless in-ear headphones, with 20-hours of play time and integrated noise cancelling technology. Plus they look great with a subtle, black design and the instantly recognisable Marshall M. £179.99, available from marshallheadphones.com

Maeving – RM1 The concept of an eco-friendly commute wasn’t something we thought about even five or 10 years ago. Now though, the latest tech is helping us to live cleaner lives with less reliance on fossil fuels. One of the major ways to achieve this is going electric and the Maeving RM1 might just be the most stylish way to do it. A gorgeous, British bike with a wide array of colours and that all important zero emission engine. £4,995, available from maeving.com

GoPro – Hero 10 The most powerful GoPro ever is the Hero 10, capable of shooting 5.3K video, 23MP photos with excellent low-light performance and image stabilisation. Plus, it’s cloud compatible so your footage is instantly saved and ready to edit in moments, meaning your camera can keep up with you. And with 10m water resistance and a rugged case, it’s ready for any adventure you are, with over 30 different mount and accessory options. Ideal for capturing your summer. £529.89, available from gopro.com

LINN – KLIMAX DSM

WEBER – 2022 GENESIS SMART BARBEQUE Preparing the perfect barbeque is a fine art and no artist should be without the best tools available. And in the arena of outdoor cooking the best tool is the Weber 2022 Genesis Smart Barbeque. It comes with integrated Weber Connect technology that allows you to monitor your grill from your phone, allowing you to entertain guests at the same time. Plus, it has an extra large surfaces for prepping, cooking and serving; ideal for large groups. Find out more at weber.com

While Linn is a company built on their fantastic turntables, they’ve also embraced contemporary means of spreading sound with their latest hi-fi music streamer system, the Klimax DSM. It won five Audio Product of the Year awards at the close of 2021, and that critical success has been reflected in how much customers love it. With a sleek and unobtrusive design, it suits any environment and is the pinnacle of the modern hi-fi experience. £30,000, available from linn.co.uk

158

drinks

GENSAC – SOLO 2015 Only around 3,000 bottles are produced in the best of years, making it somewhat of a stunning rarity. It’s made from 100% Tannat grapes, which are aged for over 36 months in entirely new French Oak barrels. This wine is of immense character and intensity. We recommend opening it at least two hours before consumption and it should ideally be decanted to give it air and time to breath. Available in the UK from houseofmalt.co.uk

Balvenie – 25 Year Rare Marriages As its name suggests, the Rare Marriages collection is a range of whiskies carefully blended from two exceptional liquids. The 25 year version is a single malt blend of American and European casks created by David C. Stewart MBE. It has a classic range of flavours that centres on vanilla, ginger and honey. While 25 years is a quarter of a century, the rare marriages range also features liquids 30, 40 and 50 years in the making. £575, available from houseofmalt.co.uk

Macallan – Rare Cask 2021 The Macallan Rare Cask 2021 is an expression that showcases the depth of the sherry seasoned oak casks used in its creation. On the nose it is softly vanilla with hints of orange and that aroma is borne out by its flavour profile. That vanilla and citrus core is complimented by notes of dark chocolate and raisin, making it extremely palatable and tasty neat, furthered by its long and velvety finish. £239.95, available from drinkspirited.co.uk

BENRIACH – 30 YEAR OLD Having spent 30 years slumbering in the Speyside distillery, the Benriach 30 year old achieved critical success last year as it won double gold at the 2021 San Francisco World Spirits competition. During its creation, it has been matured in four separate casks including sherry, bourbon, virgin oak and port before being expertly blended together to create this rarefied liquid. The combination of influences gives it a sweet and smoky mellowness. £650, available from lochfynewhiskies.com

MOËT HENNESSEY – ROSÉ LUMIÈRE AT SELFRIDGES If you’re looking to explore the nuances of rosé, there’s a new pop-up in Selfridges that’s open from February to June and dedicated to exactly that. Organised by the drinks giant Moët Hennessey, it’s the first time that the iconic rosé portfolios of Veuve Clicquot, Moët & Chandon, Ruinart and Château d’Esclans will have the spotlight shared equally upon them. Aside from the wines themselves, you can also pick up one of four commemorative posters. February to June at Selfridges

159

END — sex sells

by MICHAEL SONSINO

M OVIE WATC H

Pam & Tommy The six-part mini-series Pam and Tommy is set during a very specific period in history; 1995. Anyone born after the turn of the century will be utterly confused by the plethora of archaic technology on display, from the central VHS tape to the painfully slow websites and chequebooks used to distribute the tape. The plot itself is about the rockstar lifestyles Pamela Anderson and Mötley Crüe’s Tommy Lee,

played by Lily James and Sebastian Stan, and an unfortunate situation whereby their private sex tape was leaked to the porn industry. It’s a fun show, looking back at the crazy times when mullets were still an acceptable haircut, even if they are trying to make a comeback. The main mulleted man in the series is Rand Gauthier, performed by Seth Rogen, a carpenter working on Tommy’s house. After Tommy refuses to pay Rand for his work, Rand decides to steal the rockstar’s safe in an act of revenge. What follows is any watch collector’s worst nightmare. Cracking open the safe, Rand finds all of Tommy’s watches, his guns, a wedding bikini and the sex tape.

160

Worse than just having the watches stolen, Rand then throws them all onto the floor, wears them in a show of gross success and pawns them - all in the space of a one-minute montage in episode one. The first of Tommy’s watches that we see is a gold Rolex Day-Date with a dark green dial. The Day-Date is the ultimate rockstar timepiece, straddling that line between elegant and flashy, it’s certainly a statement. In one shot you can see the long days aperture at 12 o’clock that denotes it as a day-date and later in the series, in episode four, Tommy confirms to the police that a Rolex was stolen from him in the theft. Another watch that Tommy mentions to the police in the same conversation is a Cartier. And indeed, we see Rand wearing it back in episode one. It’s a gold piece with a rectangular case and fine linked bracelet, making it almost certainly a Tank. The Tank is one of the most enduringly stylish watches in history and Cartier is still a favourite of modern musicians, so it makes total sense to see it in Tommy’s collection. Perhaps the least expected watch to spot during the montage is a Tudor Submariner. We know it’s the Tudor variant because of the signature snowflake hands, which can be seen clearly when Rand is wearing it. It’s unexpected because at that time Tudor was still very much in the shadow of Rolex and considering Tommy already had Rolexes, surely another would have been the way to go. Alternatively, Tommy was before his time and saw the powerhouse of horology Tudor would eventually become, albeit on the back of the Black Bay not the Submariner. There are a handful of other watches that are seen in glimpses only so the final watch worth talking about is actually Rand’s personal watch that he wears throughout the series. It’s a Casio DW5600E-1V G-Shock, which is an incredibly smart piece of watch casting. Rand, despite his flaws, represents the everyman, putting the insane lifestyle of Pam and Tommy into stark contrast. Pam and Tom may be a garish slice of seedy fun but hey, at least they nailed the watch game.