Oracle Time - Issue 80 - March 2022 (Taste)

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .80

The New Face Of

PARMIGIANI The Taste Issue TRENDSETTERS | EPICUREANS | THE ROYAL OAK

ISSUE 80

£

8.95

ORACLE TIME #80

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Thomas Pettit Editor: Fraser Vincent Watch: Parmigiani Tonda PF

I’m proud to say that this issue marks our 80th edition. If you’re trying to work out how old that makes us (rude), it’s been eight years since Oracle Time was first printed and it’s been a rollercoaster. That’s especially true of the past few years for obvious reasons I’m not about to rehash on this bon anniversaire. Let’s just say that it’s a testament to our writers and guys working behind the scenes that we’ve made it this far.

That all said, eight years is a pretty insubstantial anniversary when compared to a golden jubilee, particularly if it marks 50 years of one of the most disruptive timepieces ever built: The Royal Oak Jumbo. To celebrate, we delve into the history of the original Jumbo, get hands-on with its latest successor and reminisce about the 15202s that are heading into retirement.

But for every sports elegance legend being relegated to the history books, there’s one just in its ascendency: in this case, the Tonda PF. The new face of Parmigiani isn’t just an overdue soft relaunch for the independent brand, it’s a fantastic watch in its own right. Aside from our cover, you can find it on page 45. It turns out Guido Terreni has exquisite taste.

Taste, indeed, is the theme of this issue and it goes without saying that we’ve taken the opportunity for a more epicurean look at fine timepieces. Our shoot this issue, starting on page 92, combines the two things I, personally, enjoy most in the world: eating and talking about watches.

It’s something I have in common with our interviewee this issue, Mr. Tom Kerridge.

As our resident foodie, Nick Savage discovers that not only does the Michelin-star chef know his fine dining, but his timepieces too – particularly when it comes to what he can and can’t smash around a kitchen.

Oh, and if you want a broader look at the latest epicurean openings in London, check out page 121 for the latest news from our capital’s ever expanding restaurant scene. If you ever need an excuse to get to Holy Bar, just let me know.

Now, I’m not claiming to be a tastemaker (by any stretch of the imagination), but I know people who know people. Namely Charlie Thomas who, for our style section this issue, has chatted to some of the most influential sartorial trendsetters of the London fashion scene. Want to check out Richard Biedul’s favourite greasy spoon or museum tips from Aleks Cvetkovich? Look no further than page 78.

If you’d rather work out good taste for yourself, Benedict Browne (who also makes an appearance among our style tastemakers), delves into how he defines good taste in clothing with this issue’s Style Manifesto on page 74. Looking at that combat coat, I can agree with his criteria.

As for what’s coming up, well, it’s going to be a busy time over the next couple of months. Watches & Wonders, set to be the largest watch show in the world, is commencing in April and while we can’t say anything about it quite yet (we’ve signed far too many NDAs to risk a slip-up now), there’s going to be a lot to talk about. So, keep your eyes on this space.

And hey, if you’re heading to W&W yourself, feel free to say hi! In the meantime, stay safe, stay sand and, as ever, enjoy this issue.

Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

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ORACLE TIME #80

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs

Benedict Browne Benedict is a London-based journalist, stylist, and brand consultant who champions British brands and artisanal menswear. He splits his time between Head of Content at the menswear and lifestyle agency Studio Graft and lending his services to magazines, both in the UK and internationally.

You can follow him on Instagram at @benedict_browne.

danmobbs@hotmail.com

Charlie Thomas

JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino

Charlie Thomas is a UK-based writer and photographer. An eternal pessimist, he has an equal love of both fine food and KFC. His work has appeared in The Independent, The Times, NME, the London Evening Standard, Tatler and Esquire.

michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8071 4615

George Parker

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8071 4616

Nick Savage

Nick will try any dish once, whether it’s tarantula stew in Cambodia, muskox Thai green curry in Greenland or mopane worms in Zimbabwe. As a food and travel journalist, he has travelled the world, but his favourite place to eat will always be London.

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Phil Peachey Phil.peachey@opulentmedia.co.uk 0203 985 1414 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly

by Opulent Media 020 8071 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

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ORACLE TIME #80

CONTENTS

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OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 80

18 — AFICIONADO

45 — A QUIET REVOLUTION

Discover all the latest on our radar and what should be in your basket this month

26 — NEWS

A round-up of what’s going on in the world of luxury and haute horology

38 — TIME STAMPING The ultimate form of timekeeping that makes global trade a possibility

41 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS We explore those arbiters of taste that have no time for nuance or polite discourse

Parmigiani’s Tonda PF marks a new chapter for the independent watchmaker that whispers rather than shouts

The time-anddate Micro-Rotor is an avatar for the new direction of Parmigiani, emphasising small details over complications A Quiet Revolution — p45

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ORACLE TIME #80

CONTENTS

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67 — BRINGING HOME THE BACON

The initiatives and ideas continue to tumble from the watch-loving Tom Kerridge

78 — MEET THE TASTEMAKERS

Dive into London’s style scene through the eyes of the men that are helping define it

92 — (WATCH)MAKING CONVERSATION Instigate sparkling dinner party chat with a flash of horological style

109 — WATCH REVIEWS

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OT gets hands on with Zenith and Longines timepieces

121 — YOUR LONDON DINING INVITATION

Browse the menu of London restaurants making triumphant returns to the dining scene

125 — WINES TO IMPRESS FRIENDS

Bring a bottle or two of our conversation-worthy dinner party wines to your next soire 84

130 — WINE FRAUD

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To this day, the Ref. 15202 is the spitting image of its 1972 ancestor, a practically untouched artefact 50 Years of the Ref. 15202 — p58

53 — MAN OF INFLUENCE

Five years ago Rikki Daman was a watch novice, now he’s a watch podcast powerhouse

58 — 50 YEARS OF THE REF. 15202

More than AP’s saviour, the 15202 grew beyond expectation

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A beginner’s guide to spotting a vintage wine of… dubious authenticity

145 — AUCTION WATCH 2022

Make a date in your diary for upcoming auctions that you should know about

146 – IN FOCUS

A man on a mission, magic movements and alarming presidents are in the spotlight

153 – MICROBRAND CORNER

Introducing the latest and greatest watches from the best small scale independents

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

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FRONT — aficionado

BORN IN THE 80S With its boxy, saloon frame, the Hyundai Grandeur is a retro icon that’s been given a decidedly un-retro overhaul. The Heritage Series Grandeur strips out the less-thaneco-friendly engine and electrifies it, along with new, luxurious (albeit still retro) interiors. Hyundai call the approach ‘Newtro’ which is painful to hear but, unfortunately, describes it pretty well. And we can’t help but love those pixel headlights.

Find out more at hyundai.co.uk

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FRONT — aficionado

THE SOUND OF ADVENTURE Hike to your own soundtrack with two new colourways for Bang & Olufsen’s ultratough Beosound portable speaker. The waterproof, wireless cylinder of hardwearing tech is designed to survive whatever you throw at it and sound no worse for wear. In blue or brown, it’s the ultimate travel speaker for your first big, post-lockdown adventure. £169, bang-olufsen.com

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FRONT — aficionado

BRIGHT NEW HORIZON After dabbling in light-up connected devices before, Louis Vuitton has finally re-interpreted their signature Tambour watch into a piece of wearable tech – and it’s a lightshow. Along with the customisable dial and mix of touch screen and push buttons, the defining feature of the Tambour Horizon is its peripheral, light-up take on the maison’s iconic Monogram and Damier. It’s definitely sleek but subtle it is not.

From £2,690, uk.louisvuitton.com

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FRONT — aficionado

SEEING RED If the last collaboration between Adidas Originals and Beyonce’s Ivy Park label was anything to go by, every stitch in this body-positive capsule will likely be sold out by the time you read this. But if you can get your hands on a pair of the collection’s yellow-dipped Stan Smiths, you’ll be laughing. adidas.co.uk

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FRONT — aficionado

ON YOUR (E)BIKE If there’s one person you want designing a top-end e-bike it’s Greg LeMond. The American legend has won the Tour de France too many times for any sane person and has channelled that experience into the superlative Prolog. Built almost entirely from carbon fibre, it has a top speed of 20mph and a host of potential upgrades to improve the ride experience. So, if you find yourself struggling on your twowheeled commute, look no further.

From £4,350, lemond.com

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FRONT — aficionado

FEATHER-LIGHT SATELLITES We’re used to big, heavy, incredibly machined Urwerks – which makes the latest UR-100V’s weight-loss programme a bit of strange experience. Made from 52 thin layers of carbon, the new timepiece maintains the independent watchmaker’s uniquely bold aesthetics and signature satellite timekeeping but in a case that weighs just 11 grams. With a textured rubber strap, this might just be the most wearable Urwerk to date. And yes, it comes in black. And only black.

CHF 53,000 (approx. £42,000), urwerk.com

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FRONT — aficionado

THE MACALLAN LAUNCHES 81-YEAR-OLD WHISKY Over 80 years have passed since The Reach, Macallan’s oldest ever expression, was laid down to age, making it a WWII survivor and what is believed to be the oldest single malt ever released. Mul that over for a second. Aged in a single, sherry seasoned oak cask, we’ve been promised that it’s suffused with notes of dark chocolate, treacle toffee, and peat, with a rich, sweet and smoky finish. It sounds perfect, though with only 288 decanters available worldwide, getting a taste is easier said than done. £92,000, limited to 288, themacallan.com

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

BENTLEY ANNOUNCE FIRST BEV TO BE MANUFACTURED IN UK BEV stands for Battery-powered Electric Vehicle, but in this case, the B should be flying because luxury automotive giant Bentley have just announced their latest plans for BEV production. They have committed to creating five new electric cars (models, not units) from 2025 to 2030

as part of their aim to become carbon neutral from 2025 and impact zero from 2030. The first of these, which will also be Bentley’s first electric car, will be built here in the UK at their site in Crewe. It’s yet further proof that Britain does it best, if we haven’t already convinced you with last month’s magazine.

Find out more at bentleymotors.com

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Bentley’s first electric car, will be built here in the UK at their site in Crewe

FRONT — world news

KERING SELLS GIRARDPERREGAUX AND ULYSSE NARDIN There’s been a big shift for two of watchmaking’s most experimental haute horological brands. After a decade of ownership, the Kering Group have announced that it is selling GirardPerregaux and Ulysse Nardin to their management. The decision comes following the belief that Girard-Perregaux

Instead, Kering wants to focus on areas where it can help support growth

and Ulysse Nardin are both stable businesses that can support themselves long term and no longer require support from Kering. Instead, Kering wants to focus on areas where it can help support growth.

However, while the name of the company at the very top has changed, hopefully the same can’t be said of GirardPerregaux and Ulysse Nardin themselves. Patrick Pruniaux will continue in his role of CEO for both brands and, while he might not have as much capital backing him, at least the creative side should remain the same. It’s definitely not upset the new Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck, which was launched after the announcement. It’s as bonkers you could hope.

BREITLING BECOME OFFICIAL PARTNER FOR SIX NATIONS RUGBY

WATCHES AND WONDERS 2022 One of the world’s largest luxury watch events is but one short month away now. Watches and Wonders is set to take place from 30th March in the traditional home of horology, Geneva. Last year’s event was a digital only affair due to global circumstances, but in 2022 a physical showcase is set to return.

Despite the restrictions on the 2021 event, it still saw the introduction of watches that came to define the year. Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Green and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo that went on to win the main prize at the GPHG come to mind. This begs the question, what will we see at Watches and Wonders 2022? We’ll be right there to let you know. watchesandwonders.com

If Wimbledon is the most prestigious sporting event in Britain and the Premier League the most widely followed, then the Six Nations is the most fun. Of course, it also takes place in France, Ireland and Italy but a 50/50 split isn’t bad. No one knows how to enjoy themselves more than a rugby crowd. And for the next three years the official timing partner for the games will be Breitling, a first for the brand.

This season the championship runs from February until the end of April, so there are still plenty of exciting games to watch. Breitling will also be involved in the Women’s Six Nations, the Autumn Nations and the run up to the Rugby World Cup in 2023. breitling.com

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FRONT — world news

THE NFT CRAZE CONTINUES WITH LAMBORGHINI The craze everyone thought would end a week after it began is still going strong. And increasingly we’re being faced with the reality that they might actually be cool?

In order to find the cool NFTs you have to look past variously attired monkeys and the people out for a quick buck and turn to artists and brands who have some serious credentials. For example, Lamborghini. The Italian hypercar maker knows how to create jaw dropping visuals, such as their inaugural NFT entitled Space Time Memory.

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FRONT — world news

AIRCAR GIVEN OFFICIAL AIRWORTHY STATUS Flying cars are a concept that has always captured the collective imagination. You hop in the car at your home in the country, fly into the nearby city and drive straight from the runway to the city centre. They would revolutionise mid-distance travel. Well, thanks to Slovakian company Klein Vision, that dream is one step closer. Their cutting edge AirCar has been granted a certificate of Airworthiness, meaning it meets all European Aviation Safety Agency standards. That in turn means commercial production could be possible as soon as next year making it an exciting time for personal transport. klein-vision.com

Their cutting edge AirCar has been granted a certificate of Airworthiness, meaning it meets all European Aviation Safety Agency standards

THE ONE AUCTION BY SOTHEBY’S LISTS ONE OF AMERICA’S MOST EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE HOMES The ultimate billionaire’s residence is going up for auction at the start of this month with a listed price of £295 million. The mansion, known as The One, is situated in the hills above Los Angeles and has a footprint of 105,000 square-feet.

To list just a few of its amenities, there are five swimming pools, a nightclub, multiple industrial grade kitchens, a full-service salon and spa, and a private cinema.

Not sure if ‘mansion’ is quite the right word here, as ‘small city’ seems entirely more appropriate.

Bel Air awaits its newest discreet resident.

There are five swimming pools, a nightclub, salon and spa, and a private cinema

OMEGA OLYMPICS POP-UP RACES INTO BURLINGTON ARCADE Last month the winter sport greats of the world descended on Beijing for the Winter Olympics. Considering the Summer Olympics only took place last year due to delays, it’s interesting to have major sporting events back to back. And an Olympic Games of course meant that Omega was on everyone’s minds. They have a long history as the official partner of the Games and this year is no different.

To celebrate the Games, they headed to Burlington Arcade for a new pop-up, replacing their previous James Bond themed instalment.

[Omega] have a long history as the official partner of the Games and this year is no different 29

FRONT — time out

OR ACLE

TIM E :O U T

@dialdaydreamer Breakfast is the most important meal of the day; vital for consuming more than just your morning coffee – as the aptly-named @dialdaydreamer has illustrated nicely in this magnificent pastry-wrapped shot. As a self-confessed collector of affordable watches, it’s good to see James put his camera lens where his mouth is, with a supremely cool tonneau Zodiac chrono front and centre. More importantly though is the latest edition of Oracle Time magazine, with

Roger Smith leading the charge for our Best of British issue.

That and the croissant. It’s a magnificent croissant.

Want to showcase your own eye for a perfectly composed watch shot? Well, get your hands on this issue, get snapping and don’t forget to use #oracletimeout for your chance to nab a page to yourself next month.

For now though, Oracle Time, Out.

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YOUTUBE CHANNEL

THERE ARE MANY WAYS to get your Oracle Time fix. Our favourite is of course within these lovely glossy pages to which you can subscribe via our website. An annual subscription containing 10 issues of the magazine is only £89.50, more value than a serious microbrand watch.

Alternatively, you can come and say hello on one of our many digital channels. Instagram is the perfect place to share your wristshots and thoughts with us – remember to use #OTWristshot. Or you can watch our latest video content on YouTube, listening to the dulcet tones of our editor via our website using the QR code in the top right.

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OUR

INSTAGRAM

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING

LEICA L1 and L2

If the impeccable machining and technical prowess of their cameras is anything to go by, a Leica watch has a lot to live up to. The new German-made L1 and L2 (power reserve and GMT respectively) manage to do so with aplomb. Not only built in The Black Forest, courtesy of Lehmann Präzision GmbH, they offer a patented push crown and a purist style echoing that of Leica’s legendary cameras. That means knurling and a crystal-like a camera lens. They’re solid, well-made… and pretty damn pricey for new steel timepieces.

But hey, they’re still cheaper than the M-System.

IN DETAIL •

•

•

41mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance L1 / L2 calibre manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve L1 €9,500 (approx. £7,950), L2 €13,500 (approx. £11,300), leica-camera.com

BULGARI

Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon Blue

On the surface, the newest take on Bulgari’s seminal Carillon complication looks like nothing more than an aesthetic revamp. A cool, blue and silver one at that, including a new look movement, but not much else. Look a little deeper though and you’ll realise that new subtleties in the construction – like additional slots to help sound escape the case – help the chiming tour de force do what it does best. By that we mean chime, obviously.

IN DETAIL • •

•

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44mm platinum case BVL428 calibre manual-wind movement with 75-hour power reserve $317,000 (approx. £234,000), limited to 30 pieces, bulgari.com

FRONT — introducing

LAURENT FERRIER Sport Auto

With its pebble smooth titanium case and typically pared-back dial, the latest from Laurent Ferrier is sports elegance at its finest, right down to the beautifully integrated bracelet.

Designed as the watch Laurent Ferrier himself wishes he’d worn during his third place finish at Le Mans more than 40 years ago, the case is more robust than ever before, complete with improved water resistance. The Sport Auto might be among the brand’s simplest pieces, but don’t for a second think that makes it any less superlative.

IN DETAIL

41.5mm titanium case with 120m water resistance • F 270.01 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • CHF 46,000 (approx. £36,725), laurentferrier.ch •

TAG HEUER

Formula 1 X Red Bull Racing Special Edition

After Max Verstappen’s F1 title win, it was never going to be long before TAG Heuer, the team’s timekeeping partner, leaned on their Red Bull connection – and here we are, a liveried special edition of the brand’s sporty quartz collection. Draped in blue and red and as performance styled as ever, it looks ready to hit the track.

IN DETAIL

43mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Quartz chronograph movement £1,650 (rubber), £1,800 (bracelet), tagheuer.com •

•

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FRONT — introducing

MÜHLE-GLASHÜTTE

SAR Rescue Timer Limited Edition

A gold diver is a little odd and purists will hear nothing of it. But a gold-cased diver that retains its 1,000m water resistance?

That’s downright insane. It’s also the latest limited edition take on MühleGlashütte’s military-slanted SAR Rescue Timer. There is a reason for the new watch of course, as it celebrates 20 years since it was launched back in (if you’re doing the maths) 2002. Either way though, this is possibly the most serious gold dive watch around. Not that there’s much competition.

IN DETAIL

42mm 18K gold case with 1,000m water resistance • SW 200-1 calibre automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve €13,500 (approx. £11,300), limited to 20 pieces, muehle-glashuette.de •

•

CERTINA

DS-2 Powermatic 80

Not only do Certina make some of the most accessible diving watches around, but now the Swatch Group brand have turned their hand to the zeitgeisty arena of retro throwbacks – and we love it. This tonneau beauty is water resistant to 200m, making it one of the more practical retro choices out there, and the tone-on-tone sunray silver and steel is a great-looking watch for under £800. Unless you get the pricier Milanese bracelet that is, which you definitely should.

IN DETAIL

40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance ETA 80.611 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • £770 (strap), £825 (bracelet), certina.com •

•

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time stamping

Words:

Sam Kessler

Time Stamping THE ULTIMATE FORM OF TIMEKEEPING THAT MAKES GLOBAL TRADING A POSSIBILITY

We’re obsessed with time here at Oracle Time, right down to that extra second a month a watch gains or loses. It’s testament to the excellence of today’s timepieces that we can afford to be so picky, too. But what if your watch just isn’t accurate enough? What if even a quartz movement with its electrical circuit just doesn’t cut it to the millisecond? When it comes to the digital world, the tick of a second is an eternity.

That’s where timestamping comes in.

Put simply, timestamping is a record of the time and date of a particular event.

It can be recorded manually but, generally, will be done digitally. It’s as

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straightforward a concept as you can get, but creating a timestamp has its own issues.

Let’s say we were sent information on a shiny new watch; a groundbreaking piece of haute horology, for example. We’d need to sign a non-disclosure agreement so that the hypothetical watchmaker in question could rest assured that we weren’t ruining their mechanical surprise. We sign it and send it over but, mere seconds afterwards it comes to the watchmaker’s attention that we’ve actually already shared an image or two on Instagram.

time stamping

The only way they can be sure if we broke the NDA or not is to know precisely what time it was signed and what time we posted the image of their watch. Given image leaks aren’t unheard of, it’s not a situation beyond the realms of possibility. I mean, we wouldn’t do such a thing, but you never know about shadier elements.

In this example, we could just point to the time Instagram said the image was posted and when we sent the email with the signed NDA. But when it comes to transactions in the financial sector, every miniscule fraction of a second matters, and things get a lot more complex. It takes 150,000 microseconds to click a mouse; some stock exchanges already trade in nanoseconds.

Accurate time stamping would be the only way to tell whether a trade actually came in before or after another that, on the surface, seemed to happen almost simultaneously.

The first step is to settle on a time for all timestamping to use – which is pretty simple, given the existence of Coordinated Universal Time. UTC is the ultimate global timezone, kept by taking the average of 70 independent labs and 500 atomic clocks from around the world.

Now, even among those labs, monitoring time to the very limits of physics, there’s some deviation – hence the average being taken. So, computer clocks are always going to have a slight deviation from UTC. In human trading, If you think you’re a stickler for accurate time, some stock exchanges trade in nanoseconds, using Coordinated Universal Time, which takes the average of 70 independent labs and 500 atomic clocks from around the world

For High Frequency Trades, they have to be within 100 microseconds of Coordinated Universal Time. Good luck making a mechanical watch do that 39

that deviation can be up to a second.

For High Frequency Trades, they have to be within 100 microseconds of UTC. Good luck making a mechanical watch do that.

Obviously, it’s up to any company working in the financial sector to be able to synchronise their own clocks and re-synchronise with UTC whenever there’s a slight drift. But, would you believe it, there are the occasional bad actors in the financial world (it’s shocking I know) that might benefit from a few missing microseconds here and there.

To solve that issue, there are plenty of third-party companies offering synchronisation and vetted timestamping (including Hoptroff of atomic clock fame), which ensure that everything is as up-to-date and accurate as it can be. As timestamping gets ever more vital for global business – not just in the financial sector, but across the board – these Trusted Timestamping services form the lynchpin of trustworthiness.

Alternatively, there’s always the blockchain. Come on, you knew the tech was going to make an appearance.

The innate trustworthiness of the information hosted on a blockchain means that it’s all but immutable and most cryptocurrencies already do their own timestamping on the decentralised ledger. It definitely cuts out the middleman, though with the tech still in its infancy (even if it seems like the discussion has been around forever) it’s hard to tell just how useful it could be when the number of trades is well into the billions rather than the relatively small number trading on the blockchain now.

And, as more services use accurate timestamping, as more trades happen quicker than ever, the allowable deviation from UTC will be ever more unforgiving. Given we’re already at the limit of technological timekeeping, it’ll be interesting to see how (or even if) those margins can come down further.

At the very least, it puts the rates of accuracy of our mechanical watches into perspective. Not that it’s ever going to stop me obsessively checking that my Seiko’s running perfectly though.

arbiters of taste

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by SAM KESSLER

[The Problems with Arbiters of Taste]

As we’ll discuss aplenty in this issue, taste is subjective. We all like different things and, honestly, thank God for that. It’d be a sad, boring world if we all wore the same clothes, listened to the same music and ate the same food. Sure, everyone would probably get on a lot better, but where’s the fun in that?

It’s always struck me as odd that, if you listen to a vocal sub-sect of collectors, there are some watch brands that are objectively tasteless. Here I was preaching live and let live and yet, apparently, the mere existence of a limited edition Hublot or new Richard Mille tourbillon is enough to prove there’s true evil in the world.

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The other day for example, I was browsing a certain ‘comedy’ Instagram account - let’s call it… @flameonpissed – who, in one of their posts, asserted that looking at a Hublot gave the writer cancer. I can only hope he’s since recovered and that adequate future research goes into preventing horological diseases.

The bottom line is that there are plenty of self-professed arbiters of taste out there denouncing individual timepieces that they deem to be objectively odious. I’m not here to tell them they’re wrong; if they want to rage at pictures of watches, I’m happy to let them. What I want to know is: why?

At the moment, there are a few reasons collectors dislike certain brands. The biggest is style – or at least a perception of what’s acceptable, stylistically.

Most of the hated-on brands tend to produce big, sporty and, some might say flashy watches. You know which ones I mean. They’re essentially the wristwear equivalent of tearing round in a loud, brash and expensive Lambo – and often about as much fun.

The thinking here is that the people buying these watches don’t understand what makes a good watch, that they’re uneducated in the ways of the wristwear elite. It’s never just that people like different things, it’s always that if they knew better, they’d like what I like. It’s rare that there are any qualms about the mechanics; it’s always pretty surface-level criticism. It’s also a worryingly easy trap to fall into. I can see why there was outrage at, for example, the Audemars Piguet Black Panther.

It’s not to my taste and is, let’s be fair, a bit silly.

But just because it’s not something I’d buy (even if I did have the money) does that make its mere existence a travesty? Well, let’s put it this way: I’d rather have more haute horology Marvel collabs than yet another retro diver re-issue. Any brand that can have fun with what they’re doing is fine by me. I’m not being forced to buy it.

Granted, watchmakers that rely on ambassadors – sports ones especially – don’t do themselves many favours. Seeing an oversized watch strapped to a wrist at the wheel of a custom G-Wagen sends a certain message, and it’s a flashy one. But hey, if you don’t like that whole lifestyle, don’t buy into it.

Then again, for the most vocal critics out there, that’s not a problem.

arbiters of taste

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arbiters of taste

“ Both the hatred directed at certain brands for their aesthetics and brands for their lack of availability are two sides of the same coin ” 42

A less obvious and more understandable reason why some brands get hate is unavailability. If some brands get hate for producing watches, these are the ones that get hate for not producing enough. You know which producers I mean if you’ve ever thought about joining the wait list for a Rolex steel sports watch, Patek Nautilus of any description or (I assume) one of the new AP Jumbos.

There’s genuine frustration that these watches are impossible to get hold of unless you’re willing to pay a preowned premium.

There’s no real way around this. No matter the conspiracy theories out there, scaling up production isn’t a snap of the fingers anyway, especially when you’re already producing decent volume.

So, what should we do about it? Find alternatives in similar styles or price ranges?

Watches that do the same job from different angles? Nope, just complain about it on Reddit, while praising the fact that a small, independent watchmaker with watches priced out of the range of normal collectors has a waitlist of their own.

Both the hatred directed at certain brands for their aesthetics and brands for their lack of availability are two sides of the same coin. One side is disliked by a collector because they would never buy one; the other because the same collector never could. Hell, quite often the coin lands on its edge.

Now, I don’t want to paint all virulence in the watch world as coming from self-professed arbiters of taste who are salty that they’ll never get the new Sub at retail. Though they do tend to be the most vocal. There are genuine reasons to be dissatisfied with watchmakers.

A lack of transparency when it comes to sourcing parts and production; a lack of imagination or, perhaps less harshly, playing it a bit too safe; even things like customer service come into it. And yet you’re far more likely to have all the nuance and discourse over style, design and the innate issues plaguing the watchmaking industry reduced to, simply, ‘this Hublot gave me cancer.’

FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

A QUIET REVOLUTION PARMIGIANI’S TONDA PF MARKS A NEW CHAPTER FOR THE INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKER, ONE THAT WHISPERS RATHER THAN SHOUTS

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FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

Mr. Guido Terreni (above) is the man behind the Tonda PF’s brand reboot, having showcased his watch design skills for Bulgari, where he assisted the Italian luxury brand’s ascent into serious watchmaking with the industrial chic Octo Finissimo. The Tonda PF Chronograph (right)

Logically, I know that Parmigiani have always made damn fine watches. Their Fleurier manufacturer is a tour de force in independent vertical integration, the artisan crafts employed are always flawless and the calibres more than just mechanically sound. The problem is, watches aren’t really about logic. Otherwise, we’d all wear Apples.

That’s a long-winded way of saying that I’ve never really connected to Parmigiani as anything more than a metal exercise. In the past it’s always been hard to put my finger on precisely why. I would – and have – happily have worn a Tonda 1950 but buying one never really entered into my mind.

Before the PF denoted quality; now it’s a mnemonic for Parmigiani as a whole 46

Granted, their price tags are beyond my means (as are most things just after tax season), but I still dream of owning a Moser & Cie Streamliner; why not a Parmigiani? Thankfully, it’s an enigma that the watchmaker themselves have answered – because the Tonda PF is everything that, to me, Parmigiani never was.

Now, the Tonda PF isn’t drastically different to anything the watchmaker has done before. We’re not talking a reboot here, more a reinterpretation, largely thanks to Mr. Guido Terreni.

Terrini has a record with watch design; he was one of the names behind the Octo Finissimo, an industrial chic creation that’s been a godsend for Bulgari’s ascent into serious watchmaking. Still, where that was building on the existing Octo and refining it into an ultra-thin masterpiece, the Tonda PF is, to all intents and purposes, a brand reboot.

So why PF? Well, that was a seal that has traditionally always been engraved on Parmigiani bridges and rotors, as a kind of horological hallmark. The thinking therefore is that these new Tonda models are the new flagship for the brand. Before the PF denoted quality; now it’s a mnemonic for Parmigiani as a whole.

Given the steel case and pared-back dial, it’d be easy to throw the Tonda PF in with the raft of sports elegance pieces out there, from your Nautili to your Alpine Eagles. It makes sense that Terreni would kick things off with an entry into that particular sub-genre; it’s more on-trend than a plant-based NFT, especially when it’s done well.

But while yes, the PF has an integrated bracelet and yes, it’s nicely streamlined in a yacht-to-bar kind of way, just tagging it ‘sports elegance’ to feed the algorithm gods is a few keystrokes short of lazy. There’s a hell of a lot more going on here.

The PF is all about detail. I don’t mean overly ornate guilloche or the kind of gunmaker engravings fit for a medieval tapestry, but simple elements done to perfection. The most obvious example of that is the dial. We’ve seen grain d’orge before, and it’s normally pretty eye-catching. Here though, the dial has used a CNC machine to create it at the smallest possible scale.

The result is that it’s more a background texture than a statement engraving, and the watch is all the better for it.

The minute track around the edge isn’t just contrast brushed; it’s actively sunken. The indexes aren’t just applied batons, they’re three-dimensional, faceted trapezoids. Even the PF logo at 12 o’clock is applied in two completely separate parts. Are any of these details immediately noticeable at a glance? Not really.

But once you start looking beyond the sports elegance surface, there’s an iceberg of similar touches to admire.

In fact, it’s a running theme that’s been taken to an illogical extreme. Look at the lugs. You see where they meet the caseband? That tiny stretch of metal on the

FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

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FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

The new Tonda PF collection is the first real test of how things are shaping up under the influence of Guido Terreni. The four watches offer a more contemporary take on Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature sports watch and have replaced the verbose and dominating Parmigiani Fleurier inscription with a refined PF in an oval

There are still classic Parmigiani touches, like the fluted and polished two-layered bezel, which still holds to Michel Parmigiani’s original obsession with the golden ratio of Grecian columns. But it’s subtler than it ever was in the Toric; a side dish rather than an entrée

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FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

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FRONT — parmigiani tonda pf

inside curve that you can barely see? That’s been painstakingly mirror polished. Why? By this point, I assume because they can.

There are still classic Parmigiani touches, like the fluted and polished two-layered bezel, which still holds to Michel Parmigiani’s original obsession with the golden ratio of Grecian columns. But it’s subtler than it ever was in the Toric; a side dish rather than an entrée and deliciously complimentary.

And that’s the crux of what makes the Tonda PF so much different than the days of Parmigiani past.

Previously, they wore their expertise on their sleeve, as all good watchmakers are tempted to do. But that was their entire focus without a strong, holistic design to back it up. They shouted when they should have whispered. And the way the PF whispers would make a killing on the ASMR scene.

It’s also a pretty versatile platform. It’s let Parmigiani bake a decent range of complications into the recipe, ranging from an integrated chrono to a phenomenally cool split seconds via way of an annual calendar.

They’re all the same layout – making me look forward to a bit more variety come their 2022 release slate – but for all the excellence therein, it’s the simplest model that’s the best.

The time-and-date Micro-Rotor is an avatar for the new direction of Parmigiani, emphasising small, almost unnoticeable details over complications. Equipped with the newest base movement for the watchmaker, the PF703, the platinum rotor dropped down into the

The quiet confidence of the Tonda PF includes a decent range of complications, including an integrated chrono and an extremely cool split seconds via way of an annual calendar

The time-and-date Micro-Rotor is an avatar for the new direction of Parmigiani, emphasising small details over complications movement means the entire thing is just 3mm thick.

Terreni obviously has a thing for slim watches. After trying this out on the wrist, I’m inclined to agree.

40mm wide and rising to 7.8mm off the wrist, the Micro-Rotor is downright lovely to wear. The relatively wide bracelet sits snugly and, once you start recognising the various, under-the-radar design flourishes that have gone into the PF, it’s hard to keep your eyes off.

So while the expertise that Parmigiani have honed over decades is still in full effect, and while they’re still the independent manufacturer they’ve always been, the PF is a welcome soft reboot for their watchmaking franchise – and I’m already looking forward to the sequel. Am I emotionally invested now? You bet I am.

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rikki daman

It’s a pretty amazing feat that Scottish Watches even exists, let alone that it’s among the three biggest horological podcasts in the world. It’s not hard to see why though. The mix of sarcasm and banter between hosts Rikki Daman and David Sharp brings some much-needed lightness to a topic that, let’s be honest, can be a little dry.

So, let’s start things as the guys would: with a wrist check.

“I’m actually wearing our collaboration with Christopher Ward!

This is the prototype. I was just chatting to Mike [France] and Roger [Smith] about it. It’s based on the C63 Sealander, so we call it the Highlander.”

It’s a fitting name. As well as a dial in Saltire blue (the Scottish flag for any Europeans reading), it’s been printed with the St. Andrew’s cross across the dial. It’s a solid reinterpretation of Christopher Ward’s ‘everyman’s watch’ and shows off some cool detailing – that, at time of writing, I’m not at liberty to mention.

Yet despite collaborating with some of the heaviest hitters in the watch world, it’s odd to realise that Rikki himself doesn’t come from some watch dynasty or collector-centric background. In fact, until five years ago, he didn’t care about watches.

“I already had the car, had the house, had everything, so it was a watch next by default. There aren’t that many things a guy can buy. So, I went and got myself a pre-owned Rolex. After a day I realised it was losing something like a minute a day, so I started looking into it, checking Rolex forums and stuff like that.”

And as anyone that’s been on a specialist forum knows, it’s easy to get lost down the rabbit hole. A couple years and an accidental Batman later – “I just asked about one and three months later the dealer called me up and said they had one. I had to have it, then!” – he was hooked.

At first, the idea of a podcast was a joke: “I was bantering with this guy on Instagram, back and forth we’re on the same wavelength, same humour and we think about starting a podcast. His name’s Rick, so we decided to call it ‘Wrist Action with a Couple of Dicks’.”

While we’d have loved the name to

Words:

Sam Kessler

Man of Influence:

RIKKI DAMAN of Scottish Watches

IT STARTED WITH A ROLEX AND A CHANCE MEETING, AND IS NOW AN INTERNATIONALLY RECOGNISED SHOW AMONG THE MOST LISTENEDTO SPECIALIST PODCASTS IN THE WORLD. HERE’S HOW RIKKI DID IT IN FIVE SHORT YEARS.

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man of influence

Scottish Watches has welcomed a host of famous faces on the show, including Alexia and Evelyne Genta, daughter and wife respectively of legendary watch designer Gérald, as well as David Coulthard (above).

The Scottish wallpapered version of the XYou (above, right) and the Rolex that started it all (right).

resurface, it wasn’t until a week later – at the launch of Chisholm Hunter in Glasgow’s Argylle Arcade – that it began to take shape.

“I was late to the event so there were no seats left except next to this one guy. I sat down, got chatting and it turned out to be Rick! It was then we started to seriously consider working together. We wanted to do a community thing here in Scotland as there wasn’t anything, but we couldn’t come up with a name. I’d already registered @scottishwatches as my own personal Instagram account to keep my watch stuff separate (you know what it’s like, family and friends don’t want to see wrist shots 24/7, they think you’re mental), so we repurposed that.”

All of this happened at the tail end of 2018 and, at the beginning of 2019, the last edition of SIHH landed. What a time to launch a watch podcast.

“There was so much to cover we needed to do two shows a week! We expected to take it down to one after things had died down, but then

information kept flowing; there was a feedback loop. And unlike other shows we brought a bit of dynamic humour to things. We like to think of ourselves like the Top Gear of watches (back when they had Clarkson). That kind of feel of guys down the pub chatting about watches they love.”

The format stuck. It got traction quickly, especially in the States, where they suddenly found 40% of their

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audience were listening from. And as their audience grew and grew, so did their calibre of guest. For their 50th episode, they had on the notorious Archie Luxury – “I think it was one of the only times Paul Pluta has done a show and he has not sworn” – Edouard Meylan on the day the phenomenal Streamliner launched, and for episode 100, WatchBox’s Tim Mosso, one of Rikki’s personal industry heroes.

rikki daman

“I watched him intensely when I got into watches five years ago, the way he spoke about things, he made it interesting. I learned so much about watches that weren’t current or in the sphere of Rolex, Breitling and stuff like that. Then we had a write-up in the New York Times in 2020.”

That was the final step to international recognition for the Scottish Watches podcast. Despite the format being a couple of guys bantering

and talking about the watches they like, it wasn’t long before they were among the most listened-to specialist podcasts in the world – let alone here in the UK. It was then that they started flexing their reach for their first collaboration with Swatch, a Scottish wallpapered version of the XYou, which they sold for just two months, without making a profit on each one. If you ever see one for sale, let me know; I’m still gutted I missed out on one.

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So meteoric as this rise has been, have there been any moments where Rikki’s needed to pinch himself?

“Today actually, with Roger. I realised halfway through talking about our black date window that I was talking to the greatest living watchmaker about our own custom Christopher Ward. That was a moment.”

And it’s definitely a watch to be proud of, though I’ll reserve full judgement until getting it on my wrist; a glance over webcam just won’t do. I’m a fan of the base Sealander so I’m expecting good things. But that’s maybe not the best way to express what Scottish watches do. For their 300th episode, the guys had on both Alexia and Evelyne Genta, daughter and wife respectively of legendary watch designer Gérald.

“At the time Alexia was unhappy with the mishmashes of awful, supposedly Genta-inspired designs that were ruining [Gérald’s] work, so we asked her on to talk about it. She said we should invite Evelyn as well so, on our 300th episode, we were talking to two incredible women in the industry, hearing stories that nobody had ever heard before. It was fantastic.”

But that’s not all. At one point in the conversation, Evelyn mentioned that there was one Genta-designed watch she never managed to get hold of, a Universal Geneve Polerouter. Hearing that, a Scottish Watches listener emailed the guys to say that not only did he have one, he was willing to sell it to Evelyn.

“So, I make the introduction, a couple of weeks go by, and I think nothing of it. Then I get an email from the guy saying that he’d just sat down for a cup of tea with Evelyn at the Embassy she works at and that the watch is now home once again.”

Forget the number of people listening or the sheer weight of episodes that they’ve been listening too. If there’s one story that illustrates the success and impact of the little Scottish podcast that could, it’s that story.

Hopefully we won’t show ourselves up too much when we’re finally invited on. That’d be a first.

Visit scottishwatches.co.uk or Spotify, with two new episodes each week.

FRONT — jumbo joy

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

Celebrating

of the most successful luxury steel sports watch ever built THE ROYAL OAK MIGHT HAVE STARTED LIFE AS THE SAVIOUR OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, BUT IT WOULD GROW INTO SOMETHING OF FAR GREATER MAGNITUDE

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You probably know the story by now. The quartz crisis was in full swing, a black hole devouring any hope of haute horology surviving the decade. It dragged in countless watchmakers, big and small, and wrapped its tendrils around Audemars Piguet – until the shining light of the Royal Oak burst through the gloom and saved watchmaking. Cue choral harmonies.

Now, obviously hyperbolic as that all is, it’s true that the Royal Oak was a lifeline for the watchmaker. Had it gone awry, there’s a good chance Audemars Piguet wouldn’t be around today. Or at the very least would have needed to stage a revival. So, when the first Ref. 5402ST (ST of course denoting steel) made its debut at the Swiss Watch Show 1972, there was a lot at stake.

The (for the period) large, 39mm stainless steel sports watch was like nothing that had come before, a rugged timepiece with industrial styling that was priced among the big boys of the watch world (At CHF 3,650 or £2,900, it was 10 times the price of a Rolex Submariner at the time). An integrated, impeccably machined bracelet, a clean, minimal dial and a name derived from an Old British warship, it was, in fact, revolutionary.

What’s perhaps more impressive is the apocryphal story behind it: that legendary designer, Gerald Genta, only had one night to come up with the design. It goes that he received the brief from then-CEO Georges Golay the evening before the new watch was due to launch at Baselworld, that brief being an ‘unprecedented steel watch’. No pressure then. So, the designer took inspiration from a diving helmet he’d once seen – one with eight bolts and an octagonal face plate, and one that doesn’t seem to have existed in the first place. A stress dream brought on by an impossible deadline?

Possibly. And we applaud him for it.

Still, last-minute as the Ref. 5402 Royal Oak’s creation was, its success wasn’t perhaps as unexpected as it might have seemed. For one, there was already some interest in a steel sports watch from a major AP distributor, the Société Suisse pour l’industrie Horlogère; for another, Gerald Genta was already a horological household name, having previously designed the Omega Constellation and Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse. The Royal Oak wasn’t as much a deus ex machina as it was a well-reasoned bet, albeit one made on impulse.

After being handed a brief to create an ‘unprecedented steel watch’ the night before deadline, Gerald Genta (left) took inspiration from a diving helmet he’d seen with eight bolts and an octagonal face plate

The (for the period) large, 39mm stainless steel sports watch was like nothing that had come before, a rugged timepiece with industrial styling that was priced among the big boys of the watch world 59

FRONT — jumbo joy

To this day, the Ref. 15202 is the spitting image of its 1972 ancestor, a practically untouched artefact

The non-limited Ref. 15002 replaced the solid caseback Ref. 14802 and it brought gold versions (below and right) to the Jumbo range that made its debut at the Swiss Watch Show in 1972. An original Royal Oak poster (above) from the year of launch

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Its impact was definitely felt. In the years right after release, it was followed rapidly by a slew of similarly designed steel sports watches, many of which Genta had a hand in himself, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur and others. In fact, it would be easy to put the Royal Oak’s success down to crossing the finish line first. But there’s more to it than that.

The phrase ‘often imitated never duplicated’ comes to mind and that’s still true half a century on. Even Genta himself said that the Royal Oak Ref. 5402 was his masterpiece – and Audemars Piguet agreed.

The Jumbo remained untouched until 1992 when, to celebrate 20 years of the Ref. 5402 (and end a 10year absence of the Jumbo from AP’s line-up) the watchmaker released a thicker, anniversary limited edition, the Ref. 14802, which added a display caseback to proceedings. Which they immediately backtracked on with the non-limited Ref. 15002, replacing the solid caseback and thinning things out again. The main difference though is it brought in gold versions and, as 39mm cases were no longer considered huge, started to be called the ‘Extra-Thin’ more often than the Jumbo.

Which brings us to the Royal Oak, the version of the iconic watch that we all know and love: the Ref. 15202. Released in 2000, this added an exhibition caseback like the Ref. 14802, but maintained its svelte appearance and, more importantly, the same two-hand calibre 2121 that was first used in Genta’s original Royal Oak. In fact, it got more authentic in 2012, when the logo (that when it was released in 2000 was at 12 o’clock) was moved back to six o’clock, making them virtually identical to the Ref. 5402.

To this day, the Ref. 15202 is the spitting image of its 1972 ancestor, a practically untouched artefact and, while Audemars Piguet have expanded here and there, with larger or smaller variants, it’s the 39mm, plaindialled versions that are what you, me and most AP lovers want.

That was all until last year, when soon-to-be-ex-CEO of Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias announced that the lifespan of the 15202 was over, that the collectors’ darling would be replaced. It made sense; 2022 was the 50th anniversary of the Jumbo, and if it were ever going to usher in its successor, now would be the time. And hey, if the Nautilus can be killed, so too can the Ref. 15202. And so, we have the shiny new Ref. 16202.

FRONT — jumbo joy

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FRONT — ref. 16202

THE KING IS DEAD. LONG LIVE THE KING THE REF. 16202 HOLDS A SPECIAL PLACE IN THE HEART OF MANY, BUT A NEW SERIES OF ANNIVERSARY EDITIONS CONTINUE THE LEGACY WITH THE BENEFIT OF AN UPDATED MOVEMENT AND MECHANICS

There are four new variants of the Ref. 16202, all with distinctly different personalities. The piece that is likely already sold out for a few years is the version in steel with a new blue dial. It’s as aesthetically close to the Ref. 5402 as possible and, while the ‘bleu nuit’ colouring is slightly different, it’s close enough that it scratches the same itch.

Then, we have two gold versions, one in rose and one in yellow. The rose, with its slate grey dial is standard modern AP, a colourway we’ve seen a fair few times dotted among their collection. It’s handsome, glitzy and contemporary.

The yellow is much more unusual and is by far my favourite of the four. Yes, a Royal Oak in gold will have puritans shuddering, but it’s been that way for 30-odd years now. Get over it. And here the now-retro yellow gold is paired with a precious metal fume dial. It’s incredibly eye-catching, with a more striking contrast between the yellow and black than you’d normally see with this type of smoked effect. It's flashy, loud and I love it.

The final variation is one we’ve seen recently in limited edition form:

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platinum with a green sunburst case.

Anyone that invested in last year’s 15202 might be a little miffed at now seeing a direct replacement but hey, you bought into one of the last runs of one of the most successful timepieces ever built.

You’ll be fine. I do miss the Petite Tapisserie of course, but there’s no denying that the deep green sunburst hits the zeitgeisty nail on the head.

Otherwise, on the wrist these are the Jumbos you know and love. There’s nothing groundbreaking here; they hew incredibly close to the Ref. 15202 so as to make little to no difference. That is, of course, except for what’s inside: the new movement.

When the original Ref. 5402 was launched in 1972, it housed the JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 920. The movement was a collaborative one, a project led by JLC that was funded by AP, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

When the calibre came out in 1967 it was one of the most innovative of its era and each of the partners in its creation took to it instantly, each giving it their own twist and renaming it.

For Audemars Piguet, it became the Calibre 2121, an ultra-thin 3.05mm movement with an anti-shock system and a then-decent 40-hour power reserve. In fact, so cutting-edge was the calibre that the 2121 has remained in the Jumbo consistently across the last 50 years. That is, until now.

A single digit can make a world of difference and the Calibre 7121 isn’t your daddy’s ultra-thin movement. For one, it’s a little bit fatter, at 3.2mm. Don’t worry though, that change isn’t actually noticeable inside the Jumbo case, which always had plenty of room for its older movement. More importantly, that extra size translates into some serious performance upgrades.

A larger barrel takes the power reserve up to 55-hours, a much-needed qualityof-life change, while bi-directional winding means that you can fill that reserve quicker and more efficiently than ever. It comes with a quick-change date system, always nice to have, and a balance wheel fitted with inertia blocks to lower friction. Even the frequency has been improved, 28,800hz compared to the 2121’s 19,800hz. In short, the new

FRONT — ref. 16202

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FRONT — ref. 16202

The blue-dialled steel version (above) will appeal to hardcore traditionalists, but for the more adventurous there’s a choice of two gold versions, as well as a facsimile of last year’s limited edition

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FRONT — ref. 16202

models are mechanically better and more reliable than any that have come before. Not a bad anniversary present.

On that note, along with all the lovely finishing you might expect - Côtes de Genève, traits tires, circular graining – along with a 50th anniversary rotor.

While none of these pieces are limited editions, that rotor is – or, more accurately, limited production. The shiny new rotor will be used across all of AP’s anniversary releases, but only for 2022. Note that down for future auction catalogues.

As far as I’m concerned, everything

The shiny new rotor will be used across all of AP’s anniversary releases, but only for 2022. Note that down for future auction catalogues about these new models is good news. If you’re a hardcore traditionalist, there’s the blue-dialled steel version. If you do want something a little bit more extroverted, in line with the Ref. 15202 rather than the earlier Ref. 5401, there

are the gold versions, one far more pared back than the other. Finally, if you missed last year’s limited edition, you can get yourself a facsimile of it.

The updated movement is both overdue and welcome, bringing the models bang up to date mechanically.

Finally, the 2022-only rotor is downright ingenious, turning a regular collection piece into a hot limited edition for a genuinely understandable reason. All in all, this might be the most fitting successor to the Ref. 15202 we could have received. Good luck getting your hands on one.

OUR FIVE FAVOURITE VERSIONS OF THE REF. 15202

Yes, the Ref. 16202 is lovely and an apt evolution of the Jumbo, but it’s the end of an era, and one we’re a little sad to see go.

So, to salve our nostalgic souls a little, let’s take a look at five versions of the iconic 15202 that encapsulate just why it was the most successful luxury sports watch in history.

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202ST

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202BA for The Hour Glass

Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202IP Titanium & Platinum

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202BC Boutique Edition

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202BA Full Gold

The steel case and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial was, when it was released in 2000, the spiritual successor to the first 5402ST, the original luxury steel sports watch.

It’s a classic and the Royal Oak that any devout collector wants to add to their collection. It was unobtainable before this year and god only knows what it’ll be like on the preowned market now. Its replacement is still just as authentically Audemars Piguet, but the retirement of the 15202ST is a melancholic thing.

AP were ahead of the curve in two respects with this 2015 release. First, it was a boutique edition, something that’s far more commonplace now than it was seven years back.

Secondly, it has a dial that's such a dark green it almost looks black.

Green’s everywhere now, but then much less so.

Throw in that only 50 of these pieces were made for Singaporean retailer, The Hour Glass, complete with a custom rotor, and you have one of the rarest 15202s outside of Only Watch.

Not only does this 2017 250-piece limited edition offer a lightweight, durable titanium case – essentially a thematic evolution of the luxury steel sports watch – it caps said case with a polished platinum bezel.

Yes, that undercuts the point a little, but boy is it a beauty. The mix of brushed and polished finishes – and the flight colour differences in the metals – makes for a more nuanced look. Paired with a handsome blue dial, it’s as if the 15202ST looked in a mirror and though, ‘I can do better’.

As a refresher, ST obviously means steel, OR is rose gold, PT is platinum and BA is yellow gold. That of course leaves BC as white gold, which is what we have in this 2019 release. But honestly, the case of this boutique edition wasn’t the stand-out aspect, it’s all about that salmon dial. It’s absolutely magnificent and the rose gold colouring shows off the Petite Tapisserie to the full. As a very limited production (around 75 per year) boutique edition, it’s also a rarity.

Reintroduced back in 2017, this is a statement piece if ever there was one, and the 15202BA with both a gold case and matching dial is a monochromatic beauty. Even the date window is coloured to match. Much as I love the new, fume replacement for it, there’s something to be said for the pure tone-ontone look, as true for this as it’s always been for the Rolex President. Though honestly, if I saw any president wearing this I’d have to worry a bit about corruption… it’s not exactly subtle.

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tom kerridge

Words:

Nick Savage

BRINGING HOME THE BACON HAVING PROVIDED FOOD FOR NHS WORKERS AND SUPPORTED MARCUS RASHFORD’S MEALS CAMPAIGN THROUGH LOCKDOWN, THE INITIATIVES AND IDEAS CONTINUE TO TUMBLE FROM THE EVER-ENTHUSIASTIC TOM KERRIDGE

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tom kerridge

Tom Kerridge is a man of tremendous stature, both in height and within Britain’s dining scene, where he has become perhaps its most recognisable publican, and famously the first chef to secure two Michelin stars at his pub The Hand & Flowers in Marlow. I catch up with him on the eve of the launch of his special mealkit with Dishpatch, as well as his Pub in the Park festival series.

The pandemic has posed unparalleled problems for the hospitality business, so I wanted to check in and see how things are faring for you.

The Hand and Flowers is always very strong. But the lack of business lunches or dinners straight after work is affecting big city restaurants. Kerridge’s Bar and Grill at The Corinthia in London is a

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little quieter from Monday to Thursday than it used to be. But, weekend leisure trade is still very, very busy. People are excited. The weekends are pretty much what they were normally. Businesses aren’t losing money right now, but they’re not making any. So it’s treading water - which is an improvement on throwing money away.

tom kerridge

After a period away, do you think people are ready to return to regular restaurant dining?

I think everybody recognises what they felt was missing from their lives. We like being around each other. We like connection. We like the noise of football matches, walking around galleries, Christmas shopping, going to museums. There’s an energy created from a space.

It’s a good time to change our mindset when it comes to purchasing a meal. When you are in a restaurant, you are not paying for the food, you are paying for the supply line of butcher, farmer, fishmonger and delivery man, as well as chefs, waiting staff, bar staff and reservationists. All of these people are now connected to the steak that you’ve ordered.

Yes, a restaurant is much more expensive than Sainsbury’s – it has more connecting pieces. We need to educate people to think about how their dinner arrived in front of them.

You’re paying for the food to be here, rather than paying for the actual item of food. I think now, more than ever, we are ready for a new understanding.

The pandemic might have slowed midweek trade for Tom Kerridge, but he’s as busy as ever with the Michelin-starred The Hand & Flowers, Pub in the Park festivals, charity causes, and Dishpatch delivery service

Charity has always been an important part of your career. What charitable causes are close to your heart at the moment?

We set up Meals from Marlow right at the beginning of the pandemic and it still exists now. It’s currently at a slightly smaller scale than was set up to feed frontline NHS. But that’s being handed back to the government. It’s now their responsibility to make sure that doctors and nurses should be fed.

I also started a full-time meals campaign with Marcus Rashford. We put it together to showcase great-value, budget-friendly dishes that work in connection with the Healthy Start vouchers, working with Facebook and Instagram with videos going live every Sunday, featuring stars from music and sport. Louis Tomlinson cooked a fish sandwich with 1.6 million people watching. It was great.

Are you wearing a watch today? Where do your interests in watches lie?

I like my watches. Right now, I’m wearing a 22-year-old Rolex Submariner. My wife bought it for me for our 20th wedding anniversary. I wear that and I’ve got a Panerai Luminor that’s quite big; it’s robust. It works in a kitchen. It’s a working watch.

It gets bashed about in steam. I like that. And on special occasions, I’ve got a Hublot Big Bang, which comes out when I’ve got to try and look posh!

Do you have any projects in store that will tap into this newfound ebullience for going out?

Pub in the Park is a food and music festival we’re running that’s now seven years old. It grew from one site in Marlow and this year we’re doing nine.

It has great growth potential and people are loving it. It’s more Michelin star chefs than you can think of and brilliant bands like Rag’n’Bone Man, Happy Mondays, Sister Sledge and Kaiser Chiefs. It’s happening in Marlow, St. Albans, Warwick, Tunbridge Wells and Brighton this year. There’s a vibrancy. Ticket sales are going very well. People want to get out and about.

So it’s a real good way of embracing everything; wrapping food and music together in a festival vibe.

We need to educate people to think about how their dinner arrived in front of them. You’re paying for the food to be here, rather than paying for the actual item of food. I think now, more than ever, we are ready for a new understanding 69

And, what would be your last meal?

I’m all about comfort food and proper hearty grub. For my last meal I’d get Dishpatch to deliver my menu from The Coach. It’s packed with my favourite dishes we serve at the pub, plus it’s a real representation of the classic British cooking that I love.

You can’t get much better than potted shrimp with some freshly grilled sourdough, an ale-braised beef short rib with English mustard mash and the ultimate pud - a sticky date and toffee pudding with Jersey clotted cream. I would definitely die happy, and very full.

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Off-White take on the

Layer up with all the

varsity jacket in time

kit you need to make the

for spring

transition to spring

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EDITED BY

BENEDICT BROWNE & SAM KESSLER

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Help give your office

wardrobe a triumphant return to action

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Benedict Browne helps us to exercise good taste this season \

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London’s style scene in the worlds of the men helping to define it \

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Ensure your dinner party chat sparkles with a flash of

Developing style >—> Taste is subjective, apparently. Detractors would say this couldn’t possibly be true though as they point towards Jeremy Clarkson’s boot cut jeans. Thankfully, Jeremey wasn’t available to edit this issue, so instead five of Britain’s finest tastemakers have stepped in to provide their take on the finest places to eat, drink and be seen in London, as well as offering their advice to those looking to develop their own sense of style. After all, this is The Taste issue. Benedict Browne is one of those tastemakers and he stuck around to share his style manifesto, while our kit bag will ensure that your transition from winter coat to spring wear isn’t a struggle.

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Oracle Style — Mar.22

horological style

STYLE — most coveted

Edited by SAM KESSLER

SCHOOL’S OUT Varsity jackets are returning in time for spring and Off White are ready for the transition

>—> Last month’s Superbowl cemented the fact that the biggest sports events have more fashionistas than any Parisian catwalk, with more custom outfits from haute couture labels than a red carpet premiere. But you don’t need to drape

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yourself in head-to-toe in Louis Vuitton (a la Kendrick Lamar) to hit one of the sartorial high notes of the season.

Varsity jackets are back.

Granted that’s the case every few seasons, but as the perfect transitional bit of sports-slanted

outerwear, we’re not complaining.

At the baseline, this number from Off-White is your standard Varsity jacket, in simple, highcontrast black and white, complete with the contrast striped rib knit cuffs, collar and hem that makes these jackets so damn comfortable.

On top of that, the label has gone haywire with multi-coloured patches, mainly with a bright orange, to add some life to the design. That’s especially true of the back with a funky alien in ‘deep meditation’ dominating.

There’s no missing when this jacket’s from either, given the ‘Spring-Summer 2022’ lettering.

As well as a cool nod to the season’s collection, that alone might make this a bit of a collectors’ piece.

Without Virgil Abloh at the helm, change is undoubtedly coming to the label and having a key piece from the transitional period of one of the planet’s coolest brands is definitely not nothing.

Off-White Varsity Jacket, £2,145 Available at off--white.com

STYLE — style manifesto

The epitome of taste

Informale Army Chino

>—> Australia has a bit of a bad reputation when it comes to fashion – board shorts and flip-flops are to blame – but the Melbournebased Informale is giving the Antipodean country serious style credentials.

Everything is made in the city and draws influence from European tailoring, specifically from the Neapolitan school of thought – think relaxed shoulders, comfortable silhouettes and breathable fabrics. These Army Chinos are inspired by a 1940s officer trouser, and are crafted from a robust cotton twill that's woven in Japan. With a high-rise which complements tailoring, they look just as good with a white T-shirt and pair of canvas sneakers. informale.com.au

When it comes to clothing, footwear and accessories – but more generally style – how does one exercise good taste? This issue's theme is, of course, Taste, so it seems appropriate to visually map out the boundaries of what good taste means and looks like in a post-pandemic world.

Good taste necessitates a rounded understanding that’s not trend-driven, as when buying anything one should be thinking about the product's longevity, which is determined by the trifecta of materials, construction and style.

Edited by BENEDICT BROWNE

Bennett Winch cargo bag

Morjas Trainer

>—> With travelling now back on the menu (and a lot to catch up on too), it's worth investing in a suitable bag. Enter Bennett Winch, the only British luggage brand worth knowing, whose recent creation, The Cargo provides all you need for a holiday or road trip through Europe. Made in northern England, it's constructed from a robust high-performance nylon with leather trims and military-grade hardware. It comes with removable waterproof pouches for your laundry and valuables, and will last you a lifetime. bennettwinch.com

>—> The sneaker market is possibly the most saturated space within the fashion industry, as it's feverishly driven by unjustifiable hype and constant newness. It's therefore a tough game to play a part in and keep up with, unless you go with a timeless classic such as this running sneaker from the Swedish footwear brand Morjas. Housed on a gum sole, which helps give it a vintage feel, the combination of neutral shades with soft suede and calf leather makes it really attractive and smart. With no loud branding, the clean and simple design does all the talking. morjas.com

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STYLE — style manifesto

The Workers Club Chambray Shirt

>—> The Workers Club has garnered a more than justified reputation for crafting versatile and long-lasting clothing, and the brand does so by working extremely closely with its hand-picked network of manufacturers. New for this season, this two-pocket chambray shirt has been expressly made for them in an artisanal workshop in Madras, India, using a locally-woven and authentic fabric that will develop charming signs of age. Whether worn at work with a navy blazer, or simply with a tracksuit at home, it's your new favourite shirt, you just don't know it yet. theworkersclub.co.uk

Buzz Rickson Combat Coat via Clutch Cafe

>—> Steeped in history, the 1st pattern Jungle Jacket was a standardissue garment worn by the US Army during the Vietnam War. It's a classic in every sense and the utilitarian design is still relevant 60 years after its inception. The Japanese brand Buzz Rickson specialises in stitch-for-stitch reproductions of iconic vintage military clothing, and this Jungle Jacket is a sterling example. The cotton poplin cloth is lightweight, hardwearing, improves with each wear, and thanks to the generous and versatile cut, it can be worn year-round, too. clutch-cafe.com

Merz. b Schwanen Loopwheeled Sweatshirt

>—> The key to a sustainable and versatile wardrobe is investing in the foundations, which is why you should familiarise yourself with Merz. b Schwanen, a German knitwear specialist that simply makes the best basics you can find. Merz’s USP is that it uses newly-restored loopwheel machines dating from 1890 to 1960 which slowly but surely warp a garment together, and ensure a durable and seamless construction that doesn’t lose its shape. Most brands wouldn’t work with these machines due to the maintenance they require and the speed in which they can work, but the results speak for themselves. A simple grey crewneck constructed from top of the range organic cotton sweatshirt is like a best friend; reliable, comforting and always there for you. merzbschwanen.com

Kirk Originals

>—> The UK used to have a thriving eyewear industry until overseas manufacturing became the prevailing theme. Kirk Originals buck that trend with its Made in England ethos as they produce some of the finest handcrafted frames you can set your eyes on (and through) from a small workshop. The Granger model is one of the brand's bolder styles of frames and is constructed from thick 8mm Italian tortoiseshell acetate fronts, which provide weight and reliability. With hand-sculpted features, it has plenty of attitude while not being overbearing. kirkoriginals.com

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STYLE — the tastemakers

Words by

Charlie Thomas

MEET THE TASTEMAKERS London’s style scene in the worlds of the men that are helping define it

London and style go hand in hand. The city has long been a hotbed of fashion, from the numerous youth subcultures that began in the capital to the exciting mix of heritage and contemporary brands that line its famous streets. The city founded punk, gave rise to mods and teddy boys, and has long been the home of tailoring with Savile Row and Jermyn Street - it’s a continual source of inspiration, with its 32 boroughs all offering something different around every corner.

But what exactly does London’s style landscape look like today? To get the lowdown we spoke to five of the city’s most stylish men for their take on the capital. From the best menswear streets to the most underrated pubs, they offer tips on where to go, what to see, and how to dress.

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STYLE — the tastemakers

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STYLE — the tastemakers

RICHARD BIEDUL

What’s your favourite restaurant in London?

It would depend what mood I’m in and what part of town I find myself in, but if we are basing it on a frequency, it would have to be Franco’s on Jermyn Street.

Best pub or bar?

I’m four and a half years sober, so truth be told, I don’t even know if my favourite bar is even still in existence. And even if it was, I don’t know if anyone would actually want to be directed there!

Best cafe?

Are we talking Caf? Or Café? The best greasy spoon has to be E Pellicci…but for coffee and pastry I would say The Deli Downstairs.

Your favourite area of London?

As a 38-year-old owner of two dogs, I live just off Victoria Park and couldn’t ever imagine living anywhere else. The location has the benefits of the green open space and the village has every amenity you could need, but for me it’s because of the community. This is the first place I’ve ever lived where I know my neighbours, my neighbour’s neighbours and their neighbours.

What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London?

Buy an I heart london T-shirt and go to an Aberdeen Angus steak house.

What’s your favourite thing to do in the city?

Absolutely nothing. Which can lead to doing almost everything and anything.

Favourite museum or gallery?

The Photographers’ Gallery, Soho.

model and creative director

>—>>—>>—>

What’s your latest wardrobe investment?

In January I was at Paris Fashion Week and found time to visit Nicolas Gabard of Husbands. We talked, drank some coffee and I ended up placing an order for an MTM sports jacket and two pairs of trousers (one black corduroy and one brown flannel).

What’s the favourite item of clothing you own?

Some items have more sentimental value than others; my late Grandfather’s shearling aviator jacket, which comes out of storage for a few months each year. My first ‘work suit’ - a chalkstripe Paul Smith, three button long line jacket, with high rise, bootcut trousers, which is just as current now as it was when I bought it 22 years ago. I also adore the sample of the alpaca ballet coat I designed for King & Tuckfield. This was the first item that we worked on together from concept to production and it never fails to draw compliments when it’s worn.

What’s the best shopping street in London?

Duke Street, Lamb’s Conduit Street, Chiltern Street.

These all have a certain charm, but for me it will always be Savile Row. What’s one London-based brand everybody should know?

For the past few years I’ve been really impressed with what Adam and Seto are doing over at Adret on Clifford Street. The guys have developed a uniquely relaxed yet tailored aesthetic. Louche suiting, slubby cotton shirts and luxury knitwear.

It’s somehow simultaneously mid-century and contemporary at the same time.

What’s the one accessory you never leave home without?

A hat. From beanie to bucket, I will almost always have one or the other on my person. My current favourites come from Connor Reilly and Erdem.

What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style?

Whatever you do, dress for your body type. Take the time and make the effort to understand your body’s size and dimensions. This will enable you to choose clothing that places an emphasis on the positive aspects of your body, while diverting attention away from areas that might be a little less than desirable.

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ALEKS CVETKOVIC

Your favourite area of London?

Stoke Newington, my home. I’ve been there for three years and it’s got everything. It’s cool but not too cool. There are some great foodie hotspots and Clissold Park is a godsend.

What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London?

Walk along the South Bank and dip into everywhere along the way.

What’s your favourite thing to do in the city?

Wander through The Wallace Collection on a quiet Tuesday morning when you’ve more-or-less got the place to yourself.

Favourite museum or gallery?

If not the Wallace Collection, I enjoy working out of the British Library Reading Rooms once in a while.

The weight of knowledge held in that space is so impressive you can almost feel it.

journalist and creative strategist

>—>>—>>—>

What’s your latest wardrobe investment?

A killer quilted gilet from LEJ. It’s the most versatile layering piece I’ve ever bought.

What’s the favourite item of clothing you own?

My Edward Sexton double-breasted navy blazer with gilt buttons. Blazers are often written off as stuffy, but if you style them in a relaxed way they’re incredibly useful.

What’s the best shopping street in London?

Clifford Street. Adret, Connolly, and the Anderson & Sheppard haberdashery are perhaps the three coolest shops in the city.

What’s one London-based brand everybody should know?

I’ve just discovered a tailor in west London called Speciale. Two young guys with great style, making superb suits out of a small, but perfectly formed atelier in Portobello. If you’re after a beautiful suit, they’re the men to see.

What’s the one accessory you never leave home without?

My Smythson Soho notebook. I get through half-a-dozen a year.

What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style?

Hold to the truth that clothes are a means of personal expression. If they make you feel good, then wear them – and be damned what anyone else thinks.

What’s your favourite restaurant in London?

St John or Brutto. Please don’t make me choose between them.

Best pub or bar?

My neighbourhood, Stoke Newington, has some superb pubs. The Shakespeare ticks all the boxes for me. It’s stuck in a 1980s time-warp.

Best cafe?

Norman’s. Go for brunch and order two courses.

The Red Leicester and beans on toast, followed by the porridge and jam.

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STYLE — the tastemakers

“ Hold to the truth that clothes are a means of personal expression. If they make you feel good, then wear them – and be damned what anyone else thinks ”

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STYLE — the tastemakers

“ It’s a piece of history, which you can’t say about most articles of clothing. It had blood stains on it, but they’ve since washed out, which is a shame ”

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STYLE — the tastemakers

BENEDICT BROWNE

What’s one London-based brand everybody should know?

Scott Fraser Collection. It has a huge point of difference compared to what else you can find in London, and a large majority of it is made here in small workshops.

What’s the one accessory you never leave home without?

My watch, which is a Rolex Date-Just on a steel bracelet with a black face. My birthday is engraved on the back and it’s my most prized possession.

What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style?

Don’t listen to anyone else, including me. Trial and error is the way forward.

What’s your favourite restaurant in London?

Lore of the Land in Fitzrovia. It was recently recommended to me by a friend and I’ll forever be grateful. It’s one of Guy Ritchie’s pubs, and I was lucky enough to sit at the bar and watch my food being prepared. The steak tartare was mindblowing and I also sampled, courtesy of the chef, grilled duck hearts. I’ve always been a bit put-off by offal, but Ali (the head chef) explained that it’s not like other offal dishes, as it’s a clean organ and that it’s a muscle more than anything else.

Best pub or bar?

I’m biased but it’s The Whippett Inn in Kensal Rise, my local watering hole.

Best cafe?

Vicki’s, which is also in Kensal Rise.

Your favourite area of London?

West is best. Simple as that.

What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London?

Go for a pint in a proper pub.

What’s your favourite thing to do in the city?

Run east along the canal and finish at the top of Primrose Hill in time for sunrise above the City.

Favourite museum or gallery?

You can’t beat the Tate Modern; it’s one of the best art galleries in the world. The architecture of the place is ridiculous and the artworks inside are iconic. Plus, being on the Southbank, it’s pretty cool to see the grandness of Westminster.

menswear st ylist and journalist

>—>>—>>—>

What’s your latest wardrobe investment?

My most recent acquisition is a double-breasted suit made for me by Caroline Andrew Bespoke, using a chocolate chalk stripe flannel woven in Italy

by Vitale Barberis Canonico. It’s razor-sharp and quite unconventional, while also being classic in nature. It’s great for mixing up work and play.

What’s the favourite item of clothing you own?

A vintage OG-107 shirt from the Vietnam War, kindly gifted to me by the boys at Broadway & Sons in Gothenburg. It’s a piece of history, which you can’t say about most articles of clothing. It had blood stains on it, but they’ve since washed out, which is a shame.

What’s the best shopping street in London?

Chiltern Street in Marylebone. You’ve got a mix of retailers, brands and craftspeople, such as Trunk Clothiers, John Simons, Sunspel, Velesca and Cromford Leather, which is arguably the world’s finest leather specialist. Plus, the area is delightful and quiet with a range of nice restaurants and bars to fuel yourself in.

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STYLE — the tastemakers

MATS KLINGBERG

What’s your favourite restaurant in London?

River Café.

Best pub or bar?

Ladder Shed and Chiltern Firehouse.

Best cafe?

Monocle Café.

Your favourite area of London?

Marylebone. It’s still not as well known among tourists, so it has more of a residential feel than many other parts of London. It’s got a great central location with a lovely mix of shops, restaurants and plenty of green spaces. I travel a lot, so the quick access to and from Heathrow via Paddington Station is great.

What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London?

Go for a walk or a run in one of its many parks and then take it from there.

What’s your favourite thing to do in the city?

I love starting the day with a run around Regent’s Park with a quick stop on top of Primrose Hill to get a good view of London, before getting on with my day. On weekends I like visiting one of the very good food markets, and/or to go to some nice restaurants. There’s always something new and interesting to try out.

Favourite museum or gallery?

I don’t get to visit museums and galleries that often unfortunately, but I always enjoy visiting Stephen Friedman’s gallery on Old Burlington Street.

founder of Trunk

>—>>—>>—>

What’s your latest wardrobe investment?

A new pair of brown Chambords from Paraboot, as I wear them all the time and thought I needed to give them a chance to rest a bit between wears.

What’s the favourite item of clothing you own?

There’s a navy Boglioli K jacket that I’m wearing as I’m writing this and that has been with me for many years now, so that must be the one.

What’s the best shopping street in London?

I’m of course very biased, but I think Chiltern Street is the best shopping street in London with it’s nice mix of independent shops. Besides Trunk there’s Sunspel, Casely-Hayford, Mouki Mou, Anatome, John Simons, Shreeji, New & Lingwood, Niwaki, Perfumer H, and while technically not on Chiltern Street you also have Labour and Wait just around the corner on Dorset Street. And then you of course also have Monocle Café and the Chiltern Firehouse.

What’s one London-based brand everybody should know?

Trunk, of course! While we started out as a multibrand, we’re now also very much a clothing brand.

Almost a third of the shop is now Trunk’s own brand. We cover all the basics and have lots of good pieces that can easily be mixed and matched with each other, as well as dressed up or down.

What’s the one accessory you never leave home without?

My wallet.

What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style?

Look at people around you and get inspired from what you see and read about in magazines, blogs, and on social media. Then find a couple of good shops where you’ll be well looked after when trying different things on. I’m always amazed to see the difference a garment that fits can make to someone’s posture and self-esteem. If it’s right, you will usually know straight away. A great shop assistant is there to guide you through the process and to get you to try different things on, but at the end of it it always comes down to you to try and figure out what works.

“I’m always amazed to see the difference a garment that fits can make to someone’s posture and self-esteem”

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STYLE — xxxxxxx

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STYLE — the tastemakers

What’s the favourite item of clothing you own?

My beautiful raglan sleeve 1960s alpaca wool belted coat. Purchased about six years ago from legendary vintage store Hunky Dory. Ian and Ian are the nicest people in the business.

What’s one London-based brand everybody should know?

I have to say my friend’s menswear brand, Scott Fraser Collection. An inventory of beautiful menswear items from high waisted pleated trousers to suiting and Italian knitwear, all with a mid-century nod.

What’s the one accessory you never leave home without?

A watch. I’m lucky to have a few, from Omegas to swatches. I would never dream of leaving the house without one on my wrist.

What’s one tip you’d give to someone looking to develop their own sense of style?

Start with a good pair of shoes.

What’s your favourite restaurant in London?

Levan in Peckham, closely followed by Kudu, also in Peckham. In the summer you can’t beat lunch outside at Rochelle canteen.

Best pub or bar?

The Camberwell Arms, my local. Nice local atmosphere, friendly staff and excellent food.

Best cafe?

Fowlds is my daily go to, a few minutes from my house. I also love a coffee and bowl of pasta at Italo in Vauxhall on a warm day. A great little hidden spot.

Your favourite area of London?

Has to be Camberwell. I’ve lived here for 10 years and it keeps getting better and better.

What’s the first thing someone should do when visiting London?

Have a coffee outside Bar Italia for excellent people watching. Soho is the heart of London.

What’s your favourite thing to do in the city?

Popping to different areas on my 1960s Vespa.

Markets, galleries, coffee spots, parks...

Favourite museum or gallery?

I always find the White Cube on Bermondsey Street a relaxing place to be.

TOM O’DELL Film costumier and st ylist

>—>>—>>—>

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STYLE — the tastemakers

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

Styling by THOMAS PETTIT Photography by FRASER VINCENT

(WATCH)MAKING CONVERSATION Let’s set the scene. You’re at a dinner party, an epicurean spread laid out and conversation as sparkling as the wine. The point of discussion meanders between everything from politics to films to Covid (because it’s always Covid these days) and, being a watch lover, you flash your wrist, hoping to draw in a likeminded appreciator of fine timepieces.

What do you think will be most likely to get the kind of interest you’re after? A nice, safe watch that’ll likely hold its value and maintain decent time? Or an openworked masterpiece showing off the mechanics behind a perpetual calendar; a revived Japanese brand that deserves a quick horological history lesson or enough scales to prove that watches are a lot more useful than your friends give them credit for?

There’s a time and a place for a solid, reliable daily wearer; but if you really want to impress your dinner guests and show your unique horological taste, you’ll want something a little more captivating on the menu – and one of these pieces will make for a serious feast of watchmaking conversation. Whether your dinner guests want to hear it or not.

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

Rolex DateJust 36 Palm Dial THE SPECS:

• 36mm Oystersteel case with 100m water resistance • Calibre 3235 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £5,800, rolex.com

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

LINLEY Silver Corkscrew & Bottle Opener Set, £450, davidlinley.com LIND DNA Curve Stoneware Lunch Place, £20, amara.com LIND DNA Nupo Curve Table Mat, £79, amara.com LIND DNA Curve Stoneware Snack Bowl, £12, amara.com Casa Bugatti Vidal Cutlery Set, £172, amara.com LSA International Serve Oil/ Vinegar Bottle, £45, amara.com

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

STYLE — (watch)making conversation

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface THE SPECS:

• 41mm white gold case with 30m water resistance • Calibre 2460 QCL/2 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £40,200, vacheron-constantin.com

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

Seiko King Seiko THE SPECS:

• 37mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Calibre 6R31 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve • £1,470, seikoboutique.co.uk

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

LINLEY Thirlmere Square Decanter, £695, davidlinley.com LINLEY Thirlmere Curved Whisky Tumbler, £105, davidlinley.com Serax Pure Wood Serving Board, £88, amara.com Podevache Sunset Chevron Round Placemat, £13, amara.com Podevache Rodeo Star Round Placemat, £13, amara.com The Just Slate Company Round Cheeseboard, £22, amara.com Broste Copenhagen Hune Cutlery Set, £202, amara.com Michael Aram Anemone Cheese Knife Set, £90, amara.com

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon THE SPECS:

• 44mm titanium case with 300m water resistance • Linde Werdelin automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • £ 14,400, lindewerdelin.com

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

William Wood Bronze Ruby THE SPECS:

• 41mm bronze case with 100m water resistance • Seiko NH35 Automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • £795, williamwoodwatches.com

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

Omega Chronoscope THE SPECS:

• 43mm bronze gold case with 50m water resistance • Calibre 9908 manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve • £12,580, omegawatches.com

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STYLE — (watch)making conversation

Rolex DateJust 36 Palm Dial

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

Seiko King Seiko

Last year Rolex took tropical dials to a whole new extreme with this lovely rendition of palm fronds across their DateJust dress watch. A year on and it’s still one of the hottest pieces in their collection – which is saying something.

On the one hand, you get the props of it being a Rolex; on the other, a green varihued dial that’s a world away from your typical Sub. And yes, you’re more than welcome to use the ‘tropical’ pun if you should so wish. You’re welcome.

If there’s a watch here to extoll the awesome virtues of haute horology, it’s this. Lifting off the dial means a glimpse at Vacheron’s complete calendar calibre below, with all the cogs and wheels on full show.

Thanks to the anthracite treatment of the movement, there’s also plenty of clarity to explain, at length, precisely what each and every part of the watch does. Horological lectures aside, it’s a watch that’s hard not to look at with an audible ‘wow’.

Any chance to wax lyrical about Japanese watchmaking is worth taking and the case of King Seiko, the unsuccessful competition to Grand Seiko’s upper-echelon crown, is particularly interesting.

The fact that the faceted lugs and vertically brushed dial make for a satisfyingly different twist on sporty elegance is just another reason we’re happy to see King Seiko back on the world stage.

Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon

William Wood Bronze Ruby

Omega Chronoscope

Looking for a watch that will never go by unnoticed? This chunk of industrially machined titanium and autumnal colours is impossible to miss. Between its striking dimensions and that incredible moon phase, there’s a lot going on here and unpacking it will take at least a couple of courses to do it justice. And yes, the moon phase is photorealistic. See? take a closer look…

If you’re a fan of firefighting, you’re in the right place – and can likely pick out the various details in William Wood’s eyecatching limited edition for yourself. The chequered chapter ring from the side of a fire truck, the fire bell second hand, even the upcycled strap, made from actual fire hose, there’s a lot worth talking about. It will mean you need to pass it round the dinner table for a show, tell and smell. Is that the smoked ribs or your strap?

Are your dinner guests consistently wondering why you bother wearing a watch in the age of smart phones? Show just what mechanical timekeeping can do with Omega’s tri-scale Chronoscope, which, thanks to its tachymeter, telemeter and pulsometer, can measure speed, distance and, yes, pulse, using its chronograph stopwatch.

I bet your phone can’t do that. Without WiFi, I mean.

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STYLE — kit bag

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Time to layer up

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With spring on the horizon – and British weather generally being what it is – it’s time to break out the ephemeral transitional outfit, the kind of ensemble that can keep you warm in an unexpected chill breeze and cool enough on the rare occasions when the sun pokes out. That means plenty of layers and accessories for all situations.

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1/ Boglioli Light Denim Chambray Shirt, £230 2/ Drake’s Campbell Tartan Lambswool Check Scarf, £95 3/ Paul Smith Signature Stripe Boarder Umbrella, £120 4/ Officine Generale Georges Cotton-Twill Trousers, £250 5/ Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36, £4,650 6/ Carthartt WIP Dixon Shirt Jacket, £130 7/ John Smedley Johan Pullover, £295 8/ Serengeti Lenwood Sunglasses, £240 9/ Cheaney Grayson C Chelsea Boot in Mocha Calf Leather, £425

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STYLE — wardrobe champion

Words by SAM KESSLER

AN ORGANIC FOUNDATION OF FINE STYLE Handpicked, sumptuously soft cotton to give your office wardrobe a triumphant return to action

>—> Here in the UK, we’re pretty much back to normal.

No restrictions on public transport or on London nightlife; no need to isolate at home for a week and, soon enough, no excuses not to head back into the office for those all-so-important face-to-face meetings. At 9am on a Monday.

Well, accustomed as we

might have become with the ‘new normal’ of working from home, you don’t want it to look like you’ve been working in your jogging bottoms for the past couple of years.

You need to come back in looking like you mean business – and that starts with the right shirt.

Fortunately, the right shirt starts with Budd.

The Piccadilly Arcade shirtmaker has been a foundation of fine style for well over a century now, as the gatekeeper of the gentlemanly purveyors of fine things on Jermyn Street. And fortunately for those among us with less-than-exemplary sartorial budgets, they’ve also expanded beyond the rarefied realms of bespoke.

Of course, after these many months of comfort, going back to a stiff old shirt would be hell. Instead, you’ll want something smart, yes, but soft and breathable. If that comes in the form of Swiss organic cotton, all the better.

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Like all organic things, the type of Swiss cotton used by Budd is a touch pricier than the norm, but that’s the only downside, especially from an environmental perspective. Organic cotton uses far less water, far less energy and untreated, natural plants. Obviously, it’s labour intensive – the cotton is handpicked rather than mechanically harvested – but even that has its benefits, offering more work to the growers.

Yes, yes, and it also makes a fantastic shirt material. Being environmentally sound’s all well and good but if it didn’t actually make a decent product, what would be the point? Here it’s as excellent as any high-end cotton, woven to a two fold 100 quality for a beautifully luxurious finish.

Thanks to the handpicking, it’s also smoother and stronger than anything machine harvested.

To keep things light,

Budd’s used their stock of Swiss organic cotton in two different colourways – a classic poplin white and a pinpoint sky blue.

They’re clean, minimal and perfect as a base layer underneath your business suit of choice. There’s no going wrong with either, whether you opt for the classic fit or go for something a touch more tailored. In fact, getting one of each might be a pretty solid plan.

With either fit, you’re looking at double cuffs and, of course, Budd’s signature forward collar, a style touch that’s been around since the 1980s and looks as sharp now as it did then.

So, while yes, we’re all dreading heading back into the office (I assume, anyway. I’ve been working from home for years and don’t intend to stop any time soon), at least you can return sartorially triumphant.

Budd Swiss Organic Cotton Shirts, £275, buddshirts.co.uk

hands-on reviews

THE SPECS • 36mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • L592 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve • £1,960, longines.com

LONGINES LEGEND DIVER 36MM A smaller size and burgundy dial makes for a vintage-flavoured beauty

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hands-on reviews

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longines

How big should a dive watch be? When it comes to less specialist timepieces, there’s always a solid discussion around sizing. What diameter suits whose wrists, how small is too small or how large is too large. But while most of the watch world drifts back to vintage sizing, dive watches have remained staunchly in the 40mm plus category. That’s why, when Longines relaunched their retro cool Legend Diver in a smaller, 36mm size, I just had to give it a go.

Originally launched way back in 2007, the Legend Diver actually takes its design cues from a Longines Super Compressor from 1959, the golden age of underwater exploration, hence the signature two-crown construction.

One winds the watch and sets the time as per usual, while the other sets the inner bezel, which takes the requisite diving scale under the crystal rather than on the outside of the watch.

The result is a more streamlined, elegant look than most chunky divers can accommodate, a world away from Longines’ diving stablemate the HydroConquest. It’s also worked incredibly well for the watchmaker as, honestly, all of their throwback archival designs have.

What’s different about this new watch is twofold. First is that burgundy dial. It’s magnificently rich, with the fume transitioning from black at the outer edge to near scarlet in the centre. While the sandy brown dial released alongside this version is cool, it feels faded rather than lustrous. Plus, I just happen to like red dials, especially done this well. The Fume also has a more practical reasoning as it lets the indexes stand out a bit more; lumed beige against black is a lot more visible than against red.

Then of course, there’s the size. Among the Legend Diver’s new Fume-dialled offerings, the Burgundy is only available in a 36mm case size. Personally, I think that’s an odd choice; more variety means more buyers potentially buying into a colour like this. But I guess given its vintage twang, there’s probably plenty of overlap in the Venn diagram of appreciators of funky colours and smaller cases. So how does it wear?

First off, I’d argue against anyone calling this a women’s size. Nobody would say that about last year’s downsized Explorer and, with the Legend Diver’s two-crown construction, it definitely feels a little larger than it measures. Yes, the technical look of the dial can feel a little more crowded than I’d like, but thanks to that sloped inner bezel and oversized six, nine and 12, it’s easy to read. I’d have preferred a matching three instead of the date window though.

On the wrist it’s a serious pop of colour, a touch brighter than you might expect, particularly on the matching fabric strap. It’s svelte, comfortable and doesn’t really feel like a serious diver. That might put some people off, but given the Legend Diver’s 300m water resistance, it shouldn’t. It’s versatile enough to genuinely work as a tool and an accessory.

The only real downside I can find to the smaller size is the movement. While the 41mm Legend Divers house the L888.5, the 36mm instead goes for the L592. The difference is that, thanks to less space for a mainspring, the latter offers a 45-hour power reserve instead of the larger 72-hours of the larger size. That’s a substantial difference.

Still, both have the silicon balance springs that are largely

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Originally launched way back in 2007, the Legend Diver actually takes its design cues from a Longines Super Compressor from 1959, the golden age of underwater exploration

ubiquitous in Swatch Group these days, helping them combat magnetism, among the other innate benefits of the wonder springs. Not that you can see said springs; the Legend Diver, thanks to its Super Compressor inspirations, has a solid caseback. At this level of watchmaking, I’d say that’s not just acceptable but expected in a diving watch.

Finally, there’s the price. You might be expecting the 36mm to be a touch cheaper, given its difference in movement and sheer weight of material. But no, all the new pieces are priced the same at £1,960. Sure, I’d like the model I have my eye on to be a bit more affordable than the rest, but I can always appreciate consistency. It means that personal taste more than bank balance comes into which model you go for.

So, would I go for a 36mm diver for £1,960? Honestly, yes.

But then I guess the best thing that could be said of my wrists – and recent taste in dial colours – is that they’re gender neutral. Whether this version of the Legend Diver finds a wider audience, time will tell. I hope so. £1,960, longines.com

hands-on reviews

ZENITH DEFY SKYLINE The watchmaker’s ‘greatest hits’ timepiece reaches for the stars

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The Defy has finally come into its own. Zenith’s new flagship collection might not have the heritage of the El Primero or hit that perfect sporty note like the Chronomaster Sport, but as a range of ever more inventive, design-led timepieces, the Defy has very much arrived.

It’s about time too; the Defy was originally launched in 1969, as the recent and supremely cool Defy A3642 Revival reminded everyone. But while that particular watch was aesthetically authentic to the first ever model, the new Skyline takes a much more modern approach.

I don’t mean modern in the vein of the Defy Extreme.

Sure, those were about as contemporary as you can get, but with the kind of big, bold machismo that can’t exactly be called a crowd-pleaser. No, the Skyline flirts with the 1969 original, while taking a much more modern approach.

It of course has that instantly recognisable octagonal case with a dodecagonal (12-sided) bezel and the kind of sporty industrial character that brings Gerald Genta to mind. It really stands out on the wrist, catching the light at unusual angles and generally being a low-key showstopper. It’s sharp, angular and impeccable, with a lovely mix of brushed and polished finishes. It’s also stainless steel, unlike previous, titanium Defys. Defies? Defys.

Yet, while the case shape is what we’ve come to know and love from the Defy – albeit a touch more refined – the dial is entirely new.

From a distance, the engraving looks like it’s ready for a game of Battleships, but look a little closer and you can tell it’s actually row upon row of four-pointed stars. It’s slightly subtler in reality than it looks in images, but it’s still a statement dial, whether you have it in the black, silver or this starry night blue. The standout is, of course, that latter.

The engraving doesn’t stand out that well on the black and the silver is a bit much. The blue hits the sweet spot.

The four-pointed star, incidentally, is a nod to Zenith’s past, an interpretation of the “double Z” logo of the 1960s, where it previously looked more like a shuriken than a solar object. Here, lined up in a satisfyingly OCD fashion, it looks fantastic.

Now, what’s not apparent from the images is perhaps the coolest touch on the entire watch: the sub-seconds. The Defy is most definitely not an El Primero, dropping the chronograph aspect of the legendary calibre. But it is cut from the same cloth, converting the 1/10th chronograph into a running seconds.

It’s an inspired nod to Zenith’s history and makes for an eye-catching flash of movement as the small seconds twirls around once every 10 seconds. It’s not actually as useful on a daily basis, but then who actually cares about seconds anyway? If you’re worried about that, get an actual chronograph and leave the Defy to those of us that appreciate and understated the nod to watchmaking history.

Despite the novel twist of the archival, the movement is pretty subdued through the sapphire caseback. It’s wellfinished of course, but the grey on grey keeps things as minimal as a star-shaped rotor can be. I would like to see a bit more of the movement past said rotor though. Still, the 60-hour power reserve is definitely appreciated.

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It’s sharp, angular and impeccable, with a lovely mix of brushed and polished finishes.

It’s also stainless steel, unlike previous, titanium Defys Like the Defy Extreme models, the Skyline comes with quick-change straps – and I do mean quick. I spent far too long snapping them on and off again. It’s a touch less simple than the button operated Hublot versions, but it’s still up there with the likes of the Overseas’ quick-change system.

The Defy Skyline is, in essence, the watchmaker’s greatest hits. A base El Primero movement, adapted for time-only, inside a case that echoes the 1969 Defy and behind a dial reinterpreting a 1960s logo. If it had a crown from a Type 20, you’d have won Zenith bingo.

Honestly, it’s just good to see Zenith doing something more playful with their archives than another revival piece.

I love the Revivals, from the A384 to the A3642. But there’s only so much you can re-issue, and with the Extreme being such a specialised timepiece, it’s good to see something in-between.

You know. Until we get another Chronomaster Sport. zenith-watches.com

have a cigar

HAVE A CIGAR TASTE AND THE ARTS COLLIDE IN THE LATEST COLLABORATIVE TIMEPIECE BETWEEN HUBLOT AND ARTURO FUENTE

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have a cigar

Back before Christmas, in the dead of a surprisingly icy British winter, I found myself rocking in an armchair, with a fresh coconut cocktail in one hand, fine cigar in the other, bathed in Caribbean sunshine.

Any watch writer that complains about the fact shouldn’t be believed. More importantly than showing off however is who made the cigar I was enjoying in the paradise of the Dominican Republic: Arturo Fuente.

In case you’ve not had the chance to sample one yourself, Arturo Fuente makes some of the finest cigars outside of (and some might say including) Cuba. It says a lot that, despite making well over 30 million a year, tobacco-laced epicureans the world over just can’t get enough.

Even their entry level boxes are superlative.

I was fortunate enough to experience first-hand how Fuente cigars are made with a visit to their 12,000 square foot (and counting) factory in Santiago. Between the smell of the pre-rolled tobacco, the blaring Latin music and the occasional hollered chant of “Fuente!

Fuente! Fuente!” I’ve never been anywhere quite like it.

Yet, I wasn’t there just to sample a few cigars – more’s the pity – as, since 2012 Arturo Fuente have also been a partner of Hublot.

On the surface, it’s a pretty solid collaboration. Big, bold watches meet big, bold flavours, the partnership writes itself. Needless to say, there have been a handful of limited editions in honour of the relationship but I’m not here for a retrospective. I’m here to talk about the Big Bang Unico Fuente Ceramic.

A tribute to tobacco, the standout feature of the cigar-dedicated limited edition is the ceramic case. Ceramic is something Hublot do incredibly well, though normally when it comes to colour. Here, it’s all about the engraving.

Tobacco leaves twine about the 44mm case, a naturalistic counterpoint to the otherwise sporty, industrial look of the Big Bang. It’s actually a bloody impressive job.

Of course, Hublot didn’t leave it there. You can see the Fuente lion at nine o’clock, with a dedication to Carlos Fuente Snr. – the father of current cigar impresario Carlos Jnr, or “Carlito” – on the reverse. Draped in a palate of blacks, greys and golds, the limited-edition timepiece is just as luxurious as befits a fine cigar. Hell, it even comes presented in a humidor, complete with a handful of Fuente’s finest.

It’s an impressive watch, for sure, and the perfect fit for the partnership. But it’s also worth noting that said partnership is one that goes beyond just releasing a tie-in timepiece

Draped in a palate of blacks, greys and golds, the limitededition timepiece is just as luxurious as befits a fine cigar. Hell, it even comes presented in a humidor now and then. You see, as well as growing tobacco, Arturo Fuente is also the driving force behind the Cigar Family Charitable Foundation, which takes it upon itself to grow communities, and which Hublot has been supporting since 2012.

Indeed, the main reason we were in the Dominican Republic was to see what the CFCF were doing first-hand, which included breaking ground on a new art school, entirely funded by contributions from Hublot.

It turns out that Hublot does indeed love art or, in this case, the arts.

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That’s all a roundabout way of saying that, while there’s plenty of surface level reasoning why Arturo Fuente and Hublot make a good team – the show of wealth, craftsmanship and particular sense of taste each represents – it’s an ideological pairing too. And honestly, anything that provides schools, clinics and opportunities for kids that would normally have very few is something worth talking about. Even if it didn’t come with a limitededition ceramic watch. hublot.com

CULTURE — food & drink

→ ADESSE AT SELFRIDGES Mayfair

Matthew Kenney is chef to the stars (just ask Leonardo DiCaprio) and his newest venture, Adesse, on the second floor of Selfridges showcases the plant-based cuisine that has helped him to fame.

The new restaurant features a plant-based menu, focusing on dishes that provide a sense of well-being such as Kelp Noodle Cacio e Pepe. The food is offset by a light, minimal interior to the restaurant. Although you could also choose to offset it with one of the many biodynamic wines on offer.

Book now via selfridges.com

The new restaurant features a plantbased menu, focusing on dishes that provide a sense of well-being

← APRICITY Mayfair

With establishments like Richoux shutting down due to the pandemic, one of the biggest problems facing hospitality workers has been unemployment. To combat this hidden scourge, Chantelle Nicholson created the All’s Well pop-up in Hackney, designed to preserve jobs. It was such a successful concept that it is being converted into a fully-fledged restaurant in Mayfair called Apricity. The word apricity means ‘the warmth of sun in winter’ and is a nod to the positivity Chantelle brought during a dark time. That wholesome energy also finds its way into the seasonal menu and zero-waste philosophy of the restaurant.

Opening this month, find out more at apricityrestaurant.com

>—> EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS >—>>—>>—> It’s the Oracle Time Taste issue, which means we’re focusing on the top tier of fine dining.

Featured are some major names in London’s restaurant scene making triumphant returns, as well as previews of the latest residencies in some of the world’s most acclaimed stores and hotels. And of course, the latest new restaurant and bar openings that have us salivating at the thought.

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CULTURE — food & drink

→ CEDRIC GROLET AT THE BERKELEY Knightsbridge

Cedric Grolet has previously been voted as one of the world’s best pastry chefs so the fact he is bringing his delectable delicacies to London is hugely exciting. It also happens to be his first patisserie outside of France. The artisanal pastries will be available from The Berkeley hotel in Knightsbridge where you can take them away or use the new dining area that’s been set up especially. You’ll want to get over there soon to sample Cedric’s Fruit and Flower creations - the first time, incidentally, they have ever been produced in the same location.

More at the-berkeley.co.uk

↓ HOLY BAR

Knightsbridge If you’re looking for a new watering hole offering sinfully good cocktails created by a team of mixological saints, look no further than Holy Bar. It’s the second project from the same people behind Holy Carrot, a specialist high end vegan restaurant that also opened fairly recently. Set in the heart of Knightsbridge, Holy Bar promises an immersive experience involving PiperHeidsieck Champagne cocktails, tarot card readings and a surrealist vibe. Colour us intrigued.

Find out more at holycarrot.co.uk/holybar

↑ EM SHERIF AT HARRODS Knightsbridge

Em Sherif is already a wildly successful restaurant in the Middle East, taking their Lebanese cooking from Beirut to Damascus, Cairo and beyond. Now they’re bringing their vibrant, colourful flavours to the UK with a restaurant at Harrods. Considering critics named the original Beirut site one of the top nine female-led restaurants in the world in 2021, we can’t wait to head to Harrods to try it out. If you’re wondering what you should order, hopefully the 30-course set meal will be making its way to London because that is a feast not to be missed.

Book now at harrods.com

Holy Bar promises an immersive experience involving Piper-Heidsieck Champagne cocktails, tarot card readings and a surrealist vibe 122

CULTURE — food & drink

↓ RICHOUX Mayfair

The grand Parisian cafe style restaurant Richoux has been part of Mayfair dining for the past 100 years. However, it unfortunately had to close its doors last year like so many other restaurants. With new hands at the helm, it’s now back and ready for a new wave of excited foodies. The team behind the reopening have experience at prestigious restaurants the world over and have committed to retaining Richoux’s traditional Parisian style and menu. Expect dishes like Salmon a la Plancha with wild rice, artichokes, lemon and pickled cucumber.

Learn more at richouxinternational.com

↓ THE LEDBURY Notting Hill

London staple The Ledbury was one of the first to stop accepting customers during the pandemic, deciding not to reopen even during the various periods of easing when other restaurants started trading again. That said, the intervening time has not been spent idly as the restaurant has undergone a complete refurbishment from the same team who designed Hide, and changes to the kitchen staff with a new head chef, Tom Spenceley. The new eight-course meal starts at £180 with an accompanying wines a further £120. Just don’t expect reservations to be any easier than before the pandemic; capacity has dropped from 55 tables to 45.

Learn more at theledbury.com

The new eight-course meal starts at £180 with an accompanying wines a further £120

↑ ROJI Mayfair

It’s not all about size but what you do with it, and the new, incredibly intimate Mayfair restaurant Roji is the definition of small but perfectly formed. The tiny 10-seater restaurant is the dream of husband-and-wife duo Tamas Naszai and Tomoko Hasegawa, both experts in Japanese cuisine with multiple awards between them. The menu will be hyper-seasonal with the majority of its seafood sourced directly from Cornish fishermen, ready to be turned into high end sushi. It promises to be a serene and cosy experience with dinners starting from £150 per head. Alternatively, they plan to run a more accessible lunch menu, though obviously expect tables to be scarce.

Opening April 2022

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Vita veli

CULTURE — dinner party wines

7 Words: Aidy Smith

CONVERSATION-WORTHY WINES FOR YOUR NEXT DINNER PARTY This month we’re tackling one of the most frequently asked questions of my career. In fact, if I was given a penny every time I was asked this, I would be sleeping on a bed of £50 notes. Let’s set the scene; you’re going to someone’s place for a dinner party and have been tasked to bring the wine. Uh oh, what the hell do you bring? Well, don’t worry as I’ve carefully selected seven kick-ass wines, all of which have a great story behind them.

So, when you rock up, not only have you picked out some perfect plonk, but you’ve got a little table conversation to go with it.

VEUVE CLICQUOT ROSÉ 2012 When it comes to Veuve Clicquot, things start to get exciting for me at the vintage stage. It turns out this isn’t just one of the most well known Champagne brands in the world, as it has quite a few cool tales surrounding it too. Historically, shipwreck discoveries have been a fairly common occurrence, but not with bounties of Champagne lurking at the bottom of them. In 2010, a dive team in the south of the Aland archipelago (between Sweden and Finland) uncovered a stash of 47 Veuve Clicquot bottles from the bottom of a wreck nearly 200 years old. The vintages? Between 1839 and 1841. Now that’s some pretty old bubbles if you ask me. When the locals popped the cork on some of them, they found the bubbles to still be intact and the wines quite palatable! Super silky with moreish notes of ripe strawberry, raspberry and meadow fruits. A sumptuous dark cherry discovery with a lemon glaze. £72, The Finest Bubble

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CULTURE — dinner party wines

CHATEAU CHANGYU MOSER XV BLANC DE NOIR 2018 This is a Chinese white wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon. Yep, you read that correctly.

But how on earth is that possible? Basically, the liquid inside every grape is actually transparent and it’s the grape skin which imparts colour into

the wine, so the longer you leave the juice and skins together, the darker the red colour will be. What they do here is just let the juice free-run out of the grape when it’s crushed, meaning a (mostly) clear wine with a very slight pink tinge.

This is not a rosé! This is the exciting creation of Changyu winery and Lenz Moser; a total badass winemaker hailing from 15 generations of vino

skill. This has to be one of the coolest wines I’ve ever had and it turns every single head at the table. Given the price, you may want to buy two.

Lucious tropical notes on the nose with a touch of aromatic spice. The palate gives you orange rind, pineapple, raspberry, peach and a zippy citrus that shines through. There’s so much going on in this bottle! £18, Ocado

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This has to be one of the coolest wines I’ve ever had and it turns every single head at the table

CHATEAU MONTELENA CHARDONNAY 2018 Napa Chardonnay is now regarded as some of the best in the world. Without getting too geeky about it; the soil, micro-climates, and geography are a match made in heaven for this grape variety and attracts some of the best winemaking skills from around the world. But it didn’t always have this

fame. In fact, for many years no one knew the sheer brilliance being created here. The discovery was all to do with a blind tasting referred to as The Judgement of Paris when a British chap by the name of Steven Spurrier organised a blind tasting between Californian and French wines. Some of France’s top wine critics (some of whom were disgusted by the thought of wine from America) were invited to be on the panel. Turns out Chateau Montelena

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came top of the Chardonnay list, beating some of the most prestigious chateaus to have ever graced the earth. Suffice to say, from that day onwards, these wines were taken seriously.

A flurry of ripe apricot, nectarine and peach with a floral burst and fresh apple. The palate offers melon, lemon citrus, honey blossom and a gentle vanilla oak. This wine is a total experience from start to finish. £50, VNVM

CULTURE — dinner party wines

LES MEYSONNIERS ROUGE CROZESHERMITAGE 2019

LOCOS MUERTOS

BY SEB DE MARTINO 2019 In the 1860s, a horrific bug called phylloxera plagued countless wine regions throughout Europe, decimating the livelihoods of thousands of winemakers as their vineyards perished.

Inspired by a better future, many left to other corners of the world, taking with them the tiny amount of vine clippings that had survived the brutal pandemic. It seems this is exactly what happened with Carménère in Chile. After being transported to the country, this grape was all but forgotten.

Decades went by, with wines like Merlot rising in popularity until someone made quite an important discovery in the 1990s; it turns out Merlot and Carménère look incredibly similar. After a little DNA profiling, it was discovered that countless wines across the country labelled as Merlot were in actual fact not Merlot at all, but Carménère. Cue the mass re-printing of labels. Rejoicing in this discovery, De Martino bottled the first of their single varietal Carménère, which has since become the flagship grape of the country. The lost grape that rose to fame once more.

Think big bold meadow fruits (blackberry, blueberry, black plum and raspberry) with a kick of black pepper spice and tarragon. It hits deep. £14.99, Virgin Wines

Have you ever picked up a bottle of Côtes-du-Rhône and wondered why there are little bumps on the label? Well, I can tell you that this is in fact Braille and how it got to be there is quite a sweet story.

Our tale takes us to renowned winemaker Michel Chapoutier, whose family have produced wines for generations in the Rhône Valley. In 1993 he turned on the TV to see his musician friend Gilbert Montagnin being interviewed. Gilbert, who is blind, went on to talk about how much he loved wine, but how difficult it was for him to source those he loved without having a friend with him to read the labels. Michel, being the considerate gentleman he is, was saddened by the thought of his friend (who loved his wine) not being able to discover the vino wonders of this world, so he went about finding a way to place Braille on the labels.

Every bottle of To this day, every single Chapoutier lists bottle of Chapoutier, the name of the from the Rhône to wine, vintage, Languedoc and Provence and appellation to Australia lists the in Braille name of the wine, vintage, appellation and whether it’s a red or white in Braille. Inspired by his thoughtfulness countless other wineries have followed suit, especially within the Côtes-duRhône region.

This stunningly dense red is bursting with fleshy tannins, dark forest fruit and elegant floral notes.

It’s full of texture and complexity and an absolute steal for the price. This 100% Syrah hails from vines that are a minimum of 25 years old. Make sure to decant for about an hour for the best possible tasting experience. £18.50, Fareham Wine Cellar

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It was discovered that countless wines across the country labelled as Merlot were in fact Carménère

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CULTURE — dinner party wines

NECK OF THE WOODS, PINOT NOIR 2018 In the 1970s, a Kiwi returning from France attempted to smuggle in a small cutting of a vine, he’d even gone to the effort of hiding it in his gumboot (otherwise known as a pair of wellies). The story goes that this vine was rather significant, as it had in fact been taken directly from the esteemed holy grail of pinot noir, Domaine de

“

This vine was rather significant, as it had been taken from the holy grail of pinot noir

FREEMARK ABBEY SYCAMORE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005 If you want to impress with rarity and quality, side-by-side, here’s your choice.

This wonder takes us to America in 1886 and the 16th bonded winery in

la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy.

Unluckily for our Kiwi friend, it was immediately confiscated by a customs office named Malcom Abel. It turns out our customs officer was also an aspiring winemaker and knowing the treasure that had fallen upon him, decided to pay for the cutting to go through quarantine. A few months later when released, he planted this Pinot clone. After his passing, the clone continued to thrive, where it is now a significant portion of New Zealand pinot noir.

Neck of the Woods Pinot derives from that very clone, offering a dollop of black plum, dark juicy cherry and rosemary with a stunning raspberry compote and velvety cassis on the palate. £24.99, Wickham Wine

Napa Valley. Not only is it one of the oldest, it boasts one of the most extensive wine libraries in the USA, with vintages dating back to the 1960s.

To this day, their wines source grapes from two of the most acclaimed vineyards in Rutherford; Sycamore and Bosché (arguably some of the most famous in the region). This cab

dominant blend of 87%, offers a kiss of Merlot and Cabernet Franc to round things out.

You can expect a burst of cassis, pine and thyme with truffle, vanilla and dark chocolate raspberry. With over 130 years of winemaking history, you can’t really go wrong. £188, Hedonism

Aidy Smith is an award-winning drinks expert, writer, and presenter of The Three Drinkers TV Series on Amazon Prime. Follow him @Sypped

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The Grapes of Wrath

Words:

Sam Kessler

The

Grapes of Wrath A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO SPOTTING A VINTAGE WINE OF… DUBIOUS AUTHENTICITY

If you’ve ever seen seminal 2016 oenophile crime documentary Sour Grapes, you’ll know the name Rudy Kurniawan. Back in the early 2000s, his was supposedly one of the greatest cellars on Earth, a haven of fine wines and rarities of exceptional provenance. Except, of course, that they weren’t.

In 2006, he sold eight magnums of 1947 Château Lafleur; a year later, it came out that only five were ever produced. In 2007 he sold several magnums of 1982 Château Le Pin, only to have the winemaker themselves point out their inauthenticity. This continued until Kurniawan was arrested in 2012 and eventually sentenced to 10 years in prison.

It’s a relatively well-know story of audacious fraud in the wine world, but still a cautionary one. At the time, many

collectors were taken in by Kurniawan’s promises of provenance; bottles which ticked all the boxes they wanted so much that they didn’t look too deeply into them. Assumption, as the saying goes, made an ass out of them.

Of course, wine fraud’s not down to just one man – far from it. When it comes to seriously collectible wine, forgery’s still an issue. Perhaps not quite as obvious as buying a Rolex from a market stall in Thailand, but still there, lurking in the background. The question is, without an encyclopaedic knowledge of wine bibles and archival production lists, how can the layperson with a budding interest in wine avoid being the victim of a scam?

First, buy from a reputable dealer.

Honestly, this alone will solve most

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issues. Any good dealer will be able to authenticate their own wines with the expertise of a pro and, if they’re particularly reputable, will likely make amends if a wine does turn out to be fake. It’s the kind of buyer’s assurance that just makes life easier, even if they might not have the rarest of rare bottles. Have you just met a random guy at a party with a few spare bottles of Petrus to offload from his boot?

Maybe give that a miss.

Of course, even that doesn’t stop the occasional bad bottle slipping through and, perhaps more importantly, if you want to start buying wines at auction or from private collections yourself, relying on a dealer isn’t going to help.

Still, there are a few signs of forgery you can look out for yourself.

The Grapes of Wrath

T H E L A B E L PA P E R

If you have a bright, glowingunder-UV label that looks printed on an inkjet, but claims to be from the 1940s because of one aged corner, beware

There are two elements to this that you need to know about. In the 1950s, label-makers started using silicon as a brighter coating, one that shines under UV. Earlier labels will also have oxidised and yellowed at an even rate, meaning discolouring in one corner is a major warning sign – as is different amounts

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of aging across the various labels on a bottle. It goes without saying that they should all be the same age.

Then you need to assess what’s actually printed on that paper.

Traditionally label printers used plates, which leaves a strong, solid outline, rather than the pixelated look of modern printers.

So, if you have a bright, glowingunder-UV label that looks printed on an inkjet, but claims to be from the 1940s because of one aged corner, beware.

The Grapes of Wrath

T H E CO R K The most obvious aspect of the cork in an old bottle of red wine is the staining. Firstly, the colour. The longer it’s in contact with the wine, the darker and deeper the staining should get.

There should also be quite a lot of it, seeing as bottles are generally stored on their sides. You could argue that someone might store the pride of their wine collection stood up, but it’s not a great sign.

A far more insidious type of fraud is editing the cork. The cork shows the vintage of the wine on its side – branded, rather than inked – and it’s not unheard of for duplicitous fraudsters to take out a cork using a two-pronged corkscrew (an Ah-So) and remove parts of the number to match a faked label. As well as the scraping marks you can see up close, the Ah-So can also leave impressions in the material of the cork.

This is far less common as you generally need an actual vintage cork to edit, but if there’s a line of char between one release and another, far more expensive bottle, it’s worth double checking.

It’s not unheard of for duplicitous fraudsters to take out a cork using a two-pronged corkscrew (an Ah-So) and remove parts of the number to match a faked label 133

The Grapes of Wrath

THE CAPSULE The metallic lid that goes over a cork is often an overlooked element of a bottle of wine, but not only does it have the winemaker’s branding, it’s made of a certain metal, both of which need to be period appropriate. Today we use aluminium, but in the past, it was usually tin and even lead. Yeah, that last one’s not great.

More obviously, there shouldn’t be any creases in the metal. If there are, it shows that the capsule has been take off and put back on, potentially indicating a refilling of an old bottle.

Fortuantely, once those creases are in the metal, it’s hard to get them out.

THE SEDIMENT This is the hardest part of a vintage wine to fake, so the first thing to look for is that it’s even there. The sediment is the result of all the unfiltered solids in the wine drifting to the bottom, which you’ll generally find in wines over a decade old. The more tannic grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon will also have more, so you’ll need to check that there’s an appropriate amount for both the age and style of the wine.

If you do see sediment, check how it moves. The older and more static a bottle is, the more solid its sediment will have set. If a very old wine has sediment that’s moving easily, it’s either been moved a lot or worth taking a closer look at. Likewise, if the sediment doesn’t move at all, it’s another potential indicator; the fraudster may be overcompensating.

Finally, check the colour. Red or purple and you’re ok, even black. But if it’s grey or shiny then you have a serious problem. In red wine it should also be flakey, not granulated. When it comes to white wines, sediment is less of a thing, though you might see tartrate crystal deposits in older bottles.

These look like tiny pieces of glass, just not glittering.

If you do see sediment, check how it moves. The older and more static a bottle is, the more solid its sediment will have set 134

So, there you have it. It’s not a complete rundown of ways in which fraudsters try to imitate wines – far from it. The only way to avoid that completely is to do your reading, learn what exists and how many bottles of it were produced, to essentially become an expert. But with these tips you’ll at least have a few weapons in your arsenal to pick out a fake. Or at the very least, have some decent conversation at your next wine tasting dinner party.

auction watch

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22

AUCTION

W AT C H

7-16 March

GÉRALD GENTA: ICON OF TIME Hong Kong, Sotheby’s

The latest leg in Sotheby’s designerthemed sale heads to Hong Kong. But if you’re expecting a host of Nautili to make an appearance, you’ll be disappointed. Instead, the auction is chance for you to get hold of a number of original sketches and designs taken from Genta’s own archives, with each watercolour presented with a matching NFT. This is a chance to nab a genuine piece of watchmaking history. >—>>—>>—> 12 March

LA VIE EN ROSE

9 March

Zurich, Ineichen Auctioneers

ONLINE AUCTION

Specialist watch sellers Ineichen tend to focus on small numbers of exceptional watches and their Zurich-based La Vie En Rose auction – an ode to rose gold in all its haute horological forms – is no exception. If you’ve ever wanted to add a Daniel Roth to your collection, this is the sale to do it at, where there are no less than four, alongside other independent horologists and larger watchmakers.

Hong Kong, Antiquorum

While it might be hosted from Hong Kong, Antiquorum’s first auction of March is nonetheless an online affair, meaning you can add a serious timepiece to your collection from the comfort of your home. It certainly takes the sting out of isolation.

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auction watch

15-30 March

WATCHES ONLINE: THE DUBAI EDIT

>—>>—>>—>

Online, Christie’s

In line with Dubai’s ever growing reputation as a hub of serious haute horology collecting, this online-only sale from Christie’s has the kind of big, punchy numbers to make a sheikh blush.

The headliner is the asymmetrical Richard Mille RM 70-01 Tourbillon Alain Prost, though Patek Philippe make a good outing with the 150th anniversary minute repeating perpetual calendar, the Ref. 3974J.

“ This is your chance to find a more accessible entry into vintage watchmaking than you can at your usual headline auctions ”

21 March

LUXURY WATCH SALE London, Fellows Auctioneers

Having bought pieces from Fellows, they’re a personal favourite when it comes to finding the occasional underthe-radar bit of retro cool, but their luxury watch sale kicks things up a notch or two.

11 April

WATCHES & WATCH ACCESSORIES

London, Fellows Auctioneers

With their higher-end consignments kept to the Luxury Watch sales, this is your chance to find a more accessible entry into vintage watchmaking than you can at your usual headline auctions.

There are still some fantastically collectible finds of course, it’s just a little broader for those of us without billionaire budgets.

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auction watch

13-27 April

“ It’s the last opportunity to add something from the legendary designer’s own hand to your collection ”

GÉRALD GENTA: ICON OF TIME New York, Sotheby’s

In case you miss the travelling sale mid-March, there’s another chance to delve into Genta’s archives when it heads to New York for its final leg. It’s the last opportunity to add something from the legendary designer’s own hand to your collection, even if it is two-dimensional.

>—>>—>>—>

23 April

PRECIOUS BLUES

Zurich, Ineichen Auctioneers

Blue is still in vogue in modern watchmaking and this auction is a celebration of cerulean in all its myriad hues. Forget the occasional blued steel hand and expect highlights from the likes of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Harry Winston and Breguet. And of course, a good showing from De Bethune.

25 April – 3 May

>—>>—>>—>

MODERN & VINTAGE WATCHES ONLINE Online, Artcurial

The fact that Artcurial is based in Monte Carlo should already draw some attention. When a good chunk of your population own yachts, what’s a few seriously pricey timepieces?

Fortunately for this sale you won’t need to visit personally as the entire thing is online, but don’t expect any reduction in horological quality.

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auction watch

8 May

IMPORTANT MODERN & VINTAGE TIMEPIECES Geneva, Antiquorum

Ranging from early timepieces to contemporary future classics, the only thing more impressive than the variety of timepieces at an Antiquorum sale is their quality. Details are still spotty on this one, but it’s definitely one to speculatively put in your calendar – especially as it’s in Geneva. >—>>—>>—>

14 May

ONLINE WATCH SALE

London, Watches of Knightsbridge

Despite having 50 years of experience in the UK watch world, Watches of Knightbridge haven’t slowed in their ascendency and these days warrant a deep-dive into their catalogues, even when you’ve told yourself that you don’t need another watch. The fact that their May sale is online should worry bank accounts aplenty. >—>>—>>—>

21 May

106TH AUCTION

Mannheim, Dr. Crott Auctioneers

There are Daytonas and there are grail Daytonas. The key lot from German watch specialist Dr. Crott is most definitely the latter. On sale at their 106th auction, this hitherto unknown 6270 with a baguette-set bezel and stones across the dial, too, has never been sold before. It may be a relatively recent Rolex but that doesn’t stop it being a rare showstopper.

>—>>—>>—>

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CULTURE — unsung hero

Words:

Sam Kessler

CUT FROM A DIFFERENT CLOTH Five of the best vintage linen dials to give your wrist game some sartorial swagger

>—> It’s not too hard to see where the linen dial got its name from. Despite being a similar, if somewhat lighter, engraving a la guilloche, the random crosshatching of these kinds of dials gives it the look of a piece of fabric. They softly catch the light like no other finish out there.

The technique itself cropped up in the 1960s, with some of the bigger names in watchmaking opting for the tailoringinspired style in their dress watches. The most famous is of course Rolex, who used it across their DateJust and DayDate models, but there were others, as we’ll get to.

It’s a shame though that, despite a few new pieces here and there (the accessible microbrand offering of the Aevig Thor, for example) linen dials just haven’t made the kind of retro comeback they deserve to.

Will that change? Who knows? Brands are getting more collector-conscious as time goes on and I’m pretty sure many a buyer would leap at the opportunity to get their hands on one of these bad boys in a new, archivally-inspired release.

For now, however, we thought we’d get the ball rolling with a bit of vintage inspiration from our five favourite linen dials.

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CULTURE — linen dials

ROLEX DATEJUST

TUDOR PRINCE OYSTERDATE

This is the big one and the reason we’re still talking about linen dials today as anything more than a twee novelty of the past. It’s the most iconic of all of Rolex’s textured dials (there have been a fair few) and while it’s not as sought-after as overly patina-laden tropical numbers, it still offers a supremely cool twist on the Watch with the Crown’s dress watch formula, without the same premium.

You can find linen dials on plenty of Rolesor and steel watches, though for me the former is the more interesting.

A lovely gold-hued linen dial is hard to beat and the one on the ref. 16013 is a stunner. The mix of bi-colour bracelet and case with that textured dial is pretty much perfect.

Vintage DateJusts are relatively affordable entries into the Rolex Pantheon, you can pick up one of these for somewhere between £5,000 and £6,000. It’ll be a bit less if you opt for steel, though not by much.

Among the latest brands to continue using linen dials was Tudor, all the way up until the 1990s in the form of the Prince Oysterdate. In many ways it’s a more modern version of the Rolex DateJusts of the 1960s, complete with a number of metal variations and a fluted bezel. In fact, it’s the spitting image.

So, rather than opt for the bi-colour, which is a bit too on-the-nose, we prefer the steel version with a dial the exact white of freshly laundered linen, minus the fluted bezel. It’s a charming everyday watch that might feel a touch small at under 36mm, but won’t look out of place.

Set aside £2,000 and you’ll have your pick of the bunch. Just don’t expect one to hang around if you do see it, as these things are in high demand from collectors that realise there’s more to Tudor than their early references and what they’re releasing now.

It still offers a supremely cool twist on the Watch with the Crown’s dress watch formula, without the same premium

OMEGA CONSTELLATION Omega used linen dials sporadically over a good couple of decades and across most of their collections, including the Ranchero of the late 1950s, Seamasters of the 1960s and DeVilles of the 1970s. The Omega collection most ubiquitous with linen dials though is the Constellation.

The Constellation as a collection has evolved over the years from a standard, round dress watch into the more off-kilter redesign of today. One of the most fun watches though is this tonneau-cased version from 1969. It’s sporty, elegant and the specific linen dial is diagonally crosshatched rather than horizontal and vertical. The result is that it looks a little less rigid; silk perhaps rather than linen. As with all vintage Omegas, it also represents extraordinary value, and you should be able to get yourself a good condition version for under £1,500. For a watch that wears this well, that’s a steal.

One of the most fun watches is this tonneaucased version from 1969 143

CULTURE — unsung hero

SEIKO LORD MATIC LINEN DIAL Now that Seiko have revived King Seiko, this is the one I want to see them tackle next. The Lord Matic was an odd duck, produced from 1968 until the late 1970s, it was in the upper tier of the brand until you ventured into Grand Seiko territory. It was billed as a watch for ‘men on the way to the top’.

It was definitely an experimental collection, with a

few odd case shapes and dial variations here and there, supported by a killer calibre 5206 automatic movement, complete with a bi-lingual date. Want to learn your week in Japanese? This is the one for you.

Price wise… well, it’s a vintage Seiko. It’ll set you back a few hundred pounds at most. For what, at the time, was a seriously great timepiece and one that still holds up today – aesthetically and mechanically – it’s hard to beat.

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It was definitely an experimental collection, with a few odd case shapes and dial variations here and there

CULTURE — linen dials

ETERNA-MATIC 3000

The Eterna-Matic houses the watchmaker’s legendary automatic movement from 1948

If you don’t want to pay through the nose for a Rolex, there’s always the equally handsome but far, far more accessible offering from Eterna. Along with the attractive silver linen dial, the Eterna-Matic houses the watchmaker’s legendary automatic movement from 1948, which uses a rotor mounted on ball-bearings to reduce friction. If you ever wondered why Eterna’s logo was five balls, there you go.

The crosshatching here is very fine and slightly less random than other versions; a bit more uniform. If the Rolex is perfect for tropical climes, then Eterna’s is all about sharp tailoring.

Price wise, you’re looking at somewhere between £500 and £600 for an Eterna-Matic 3000 with a linen dial. They don’t come up all that often, so nab one when you can.

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS SCHOFIELD’S MAN ON A MISSION, THE ALARMING WATCH OF PRESIDENTS AND SOME AUDACIOUSLY MAGIC MOVEMENTS ALL GO UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

MAN ON A MISSION

We talk to the man behind Schofield, Giles Ellis, about vanity, tenacity and building a brand for yourself Giles Ellis is a man on a mission. Since launching Schofield back in 2011, he’s made it his obsession to build some of the most mechanically sound pieces on home shores, with aesthetics and themes inextricably linked with the British landscape. Though to the man himself it sounds like a mixed blessing.

“I am a guy cursed with an inability to tolerate badly made, ugly or poorly designed things. I am particular about the details. Being this way hurts my bank balance but not my feelings because it motivates me to my bit; make the world a little prettier one small object at a time. Apparently ‘pretty’ was my first word! I hate fakery (that includes steampunk) but I love playing with both old and new at the same time, for example a carbon fibre watch based on an old smuggler’s signalling lamp. The romance of the lighthouse keeper and the science fiction of UFOs, I enjoy the obscurity. I mostly make watches from a small shop in Sussex, under the dip of the Downs by the River Adur. Schofield Watch Co. has been around

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IN FOCUS — schofield

for over 10 years and I feel like a vet of the British watch scene.”

Yet small scale and fiercely independent as Schofield is as a brand, it came from a similar place to many a horological enterprise, even if Giles phrases it slightly differently to most: “Vanity. I wanted a watch (probably a Panerai or Bell and Ross) and could not afford one, so I thought making my own - just one - would be a worthwhile use of my time. The project got quite out of hand and three years later I had 99 watches to sell. Naturally, I could have bought 99 Panerais for the cost of setting up a watch company.”

And so – at great expense – the Signalman was born. With its chunky, industrially machined case it looked unlike anything else on the market. It drew plenty of inspiration from its namesake, the kind of lighthouses you’ll find on the south coast of England, combined with a surprisingly nuanced, tiered dial and the big, chunky case that’s since come to define Schofield’s aesthetics. But don’t for a second think that lighthouses are the only place Giles looks to for ideas.

“I find inspiration everywhere except the watch industry. I do not look at other watch brands at all.

I would rather be influenced by vintage hubcaps, Ferris wheels, Fresnel lenses, submarines, bad weather, rivers, rocks, cliffs, distant lights, brutalist buildings, mid-century lighting, Tomorrow’s World and the future. It sounds pretentious looking at the list, but it is true, everywhere but watches. Saying that, there is the odd exception. Occasionally I will look at the all-time classics to re-acquaint myself with the masters of layout and spacing: A vintage Angelus, Jaeger, Vulcain, or Vacheron Constantin.”

While Schofield watches are anything but classical, even something as unashamedly outside of the watch sphere as they can take a few lessons from the larger brands. It turns out though, that Giles has taken more than just dial spacing cues from them.

Over the years, Giles has introduced some serious horological quirks to his timepieces. Rings of solid lume around the edge of the dials; cases made from coloured ceramic; petrified wood and bronze; a superb amount of in-house finishing, it often feels like Schofield is hitting above their weight, an independent British brand going toe-to-toe with much larger Swiss watchmakers. How? “I figure if they can, I can, and I go at it relentlessly. Or, failing tenacity, I will work out how to do it in-house. Especially with our finishing, which is all done by ourselves. The blueing of titanium, the patenation of bronze, polishing, brushing, and blasting steel to make it look like concrete.”

It’s hard not to admire the balls it takes to just pick something up and run with it. That said, Schofield watches aren’t for everyone. Their distinctive dimensions and pared-back Britishness that’s as rugged as the Jurassic coast attract a certain kind of wearer, often bearded, always appreciating of quality. But even that relatively niche audience isn’t who Giles designs for.

“I do it solely for myself. I am a selfish designer.

If I want to wear the watches and I think they are cool then I am enthusiastic, which helps photographing and writing about them and ultimately selling them because I am proud of my work.”

Over a decade on and it seems to be worth it.

Schofield’s latest, the Treasure Seeker, has all the elements that have come to define the company’s timepieces like the anniversary watch it (almost) is. That includes the chunky, 44mm case that has been part of Schofield’s DNA since the original Signalman and a ring of lume around the dial, lighting it clearly even at night. The twist here is that each is dedicated to a different treasure horde found around the UK. History buffs, enjoy.

Read more at schofieldwatchcompany.com

Schofield started life when Giles Ellis (left) wanted a watch, but couldn’t afford one, so he made his own – at great expense – and the Signalman was born. The Schofield Strange Lights (below) in red

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IN FOCUS — vulcain

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IN FOCUS — vulcain

CAUSE FOR ALARM

Dating back to the 1940s, Vulcain’s “Watch of the Presidents” is still an acoustic icon Customers say a lot about a watch brand. Do they pair their timepiece with a vintage Jaguar E-Type or a Lamborghini Huracan? Are they artistically inclined or militaristically utilitarian? The wrist a watch sits on is just as indicative of a watchmaker’s philosophies as the timepieces themselves – so it’s rather telling that, for Vulcain, said wrists include those of US Presidents.

While Rolex may have nabbed the moniker ‘President’ for themselves, Vulcain’s own White House legacy dates back to the 1940s and the creation of the Cricket Watch.

First launched in 1947, the Cricket was the first successful alarm wristwatch – yes, before even Jaeger-LeCoultre. There had been attempts by other watchmakers in the past, but Vulcain’s was the one loud and reliable enough to be considered a replacement for a travel clock. There was an instantaneous waitlist from pilots, travelling salesmen and anyone that wanted to downsize their necessary noisemaker into a handsome wristwatch.

The crucial factor in the creation of this calibre was that watchmakers from Vulcain worked with scientists to better understand the nature of acoustics and make the Cricket alarm loud enough to consistently wake its owner. It was loud enough in fact to be brought to the attention of thenpresident Harry S. Truman. If there’s anyone that can’t afford to sleep in, it’s a US president.

Following in Truman’s wake, Eisenhower, Johnson and Nixon all had Cricket watches while they were in office. Vulcain watches were a common sight (and sound) in the White House from 1945 to 1974.

Lyndon B Johnson was enough of a fan that he regularly gifted Vulcain timepieces to his staff – which perhaps says more than it should about his staff’s timekeeping. It’s enough of a political relationship that the Vulcain Cricket is just as often referred to as “the watch of the Presidents.”

Nearly half a century on and modern Vulcain too is dominated by the aesthetics of the Cricket, this time in the form of the 50s Presidents’ Collection.

There are a wide variety of styles, sizes and movements available. Cases range from 39mm to 42mm, and the majority are stainless steel with a few gold special editions sprinkled into the mix.

No matter the reference, they all retain the same smooth, round design with a fluted crown and mushroom pushers.

The dials feature a number of colours and finishes including blue, black and silver sunray brushing, and intricate guilloché patterns.

Naturally, the layout of the dial is determined by

In their attempts to tempt customers to ditch their alarm clocks in favour of a handsome wristwatch, Vulcain worked with scientists to make the Cricket alarm loud enough to consistently wake its owner

While Rolex may have nabbed the moniker ‘President’ for themselves, Vulcain’s own White House legacy dates back to the 1940s each watch’s functions. The majority of watches in the 50s Presidents’ Collection feature the classic alarm complication, but others also introduce chronographs, moonphases and simple time and date variants.

Outside of the 50s President, which is largely a dress watch, Vulcain also produce a range of sporty alternatives. The Aviator Instrument uses a Cricket base to create a technical looking pilot’s watch with a world time function. Then for underwater activities there’s the Nautical Seventies collection, featuring bold shapes and colourful decompression tables. They also dabble in haute horology with tourbillons and métiers d’art with enamel artwork dials.

At their core however, Vulcain is a watchmaker inextricably linked with their White House history, a brand built on their relationship with the hallowed halls of power and the alarm complication that sounded through them.

For out more at vulcain.ch

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IN FOCUS — speake-marin

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IN FOCUS — speake-marin

MAGIC MOVEMENTS

The Swiss haute horologist that asks the age-old question: who needs a dial, anyway?

Last month we took a look at the top watchmakers from the UK, however one brand that was founded in 2002 by British watchmaker in Switzerland is Speake-Marin. The company focuses on the highest end of horology and came under the ownership of Mrs Christelle Rosnoblet in 2012, who is the incumbent CEO. Under her guidance Speake-Marin has become a highly respected Haute Horological house.

Tempting as it is though, let’s not get hung up on the British angle. Throughout the brand’s existence, one thing has always remained the same: the exceptional haute horological quality of the watches, particularly when it comes to their movements. Speake-Marin produces all their watch movements in-house using the dedicated studio and workshop, modernised under Mrs Rosnoblet, called Le Cercle des Horlogers, and they love to flex their watchmaking muscle.

Take, just as an example, the One & Two Openworked Tourbillon Titanium, an intricate automatic tourbillon with a 72-hour power reserve. It’s not subtle, nor should it be. It features large heart shaped hands and a 60-second flying tourbillon positioned at 1:30, which is a bit of a signature of Speake-Marin.

And, of course, it’s openworked to best showcase the SMA05 calibre’s flying tourbillon and micro rotor. When your movements are this good, you can be excused for wanting to show them off.

And show them off they do.

Openworking is a core element of SpeakeMarin’s collection, to the point of defining the brand’s aesthetic. It’s rare that you’ll come across one of their timepieces with anything as prosaic as a dial. Instead, architectural is the word that springs to mind, turning each of their calibres the into a work of mechanical art. Who needs enamellers anyway?

It’s not just their lack of dial coverage SpeakeMarin is known for either. Their signature blue, thorned rotors can be seen from above or below the watch. It’s nice that the English Rose still has some weight as a symbol of their heritage even though they’re resolutely Swiss these days. There’s also something distinctly British about the fluted crowns and overtly non-integrated lugs, though the classicality of said touches only serve to highlight the openworked dials all the more.

When taken all together, the haute horology movements and dials (or perhaps lack thereof) combine to create complex and audacious watches.

Even their relatively simple watches, such as the

Speake-Marin’s complex and audacious watches are largely produced in-house using their dedicated studio and workshop called Le Cercle des Horlogers

time-only One & Two Openworked V3, are masterworks.

The Openworked V3 is dominated by Côtes de Genève radiating from an off-centre small-seconds at 1:30, the placement of which is itself a feat of haute horological engineering, since it interferes with the traditional layout of mechanisms in a movement. It’s excessive in the best possible way, and an exercise in pushing even the most ‘basic’ calibres to the wonderfully illogical extreme.

It’s perhaps inevitable that with such mechanical excellence and visual flair, each watch is only available in severely limited numbers. Only 19 One & Two Openworked V3s were produced and as for the Openworked Tourbillon I mentioned earlier, that’s a limited edition of just 10. When you’re working at this end of the horological spectrum, you can’t expect more than that.

For out more at speake-marin.com

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THE SPECS:

MICROBRAND

• 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Selitta SW-200 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • From $499 (approx. £370), horonwatches.com

CORNER

From accessible horology to avant garde designs, here’s the latest and greatest from the ever-creative world of microbrands edited by: SAM KESSLER

Horon

Ocean Hunter

Yes, another month, another microbrand diver – but thankfully Horon’s is a good deal more interesting than your usual Submariner homage. The Ocean Hunter collection consists of a quartet of affordable underwater specialists, all tested to 300m. What really sets them apart though is the multi-layered nuance on the dial – particularly in the yellow and blue Naga, which matches the bi-colour diving bezel with a dark blue ring for the indexes and a splash of yellow guilloche at the core. There is a Meteorite edition, but this is one of the few times it’s the most subtle option that stands out. horonwatches.com

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De Rijke Miffy Moonphase

You read that right. Move over Snoopy, another beloved cartoon animal is taking to the stars courtesy of Dutch driving watch specialist De Rijke. Along with the brand’s signature rotating case (for ease of reading with both hands on the wheel), their latest piece includes a bright yellow moon phase against a blue dial. Sitting on said moon is Miffy, the painfully adorable rabbit that started life way back in 1955. Bright, colourful and extremely limited, it’s one of the most quintessentially charming microbrand pieces around. derijkeandco.com

THE SPECS:

• 38mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW 288-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • €2,724 (approx. £2,300), derijkeandco.com

Timeless Watch HMS-001

Timeless Watch is a brand dedicated to creating watches with an architectural flair with a focus on textures and graphic elements. The HMS-001 has a fine guilloché dial and a white coloured hour scale paired with the Timeless logo which sits above the guilloché at 9 o’clock. The hour and minute hands are equally intricate with a unique open design that isn’t quite skeletonised.

Inside it houses the Swiss made STP 1-11 automatic movement which has a 44-hour power reserve and a date wheel function.

Overall, the intricate details certainly live up to the intentions of the brand. timeless-watch.ch

THE SPECS:

• STP 1-11 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • 41.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • CHF 1450 (approx. £1160) timeless-watch.ch

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THE SPECS:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • MIYOTA 9039 with 42-hour power reserve • $525 (approx. £390), pancerna.com

Pancerna P.7 Pilot

There are a fair few field watches designed for a bit of rough and tumble; the P.7 Pilots’ watch from Pancerna looks built for a high-speed plane crash.

A pebble-smooth case with thick, chunky lugs, it’s a solid piece of metal with all the aviation quality-of-flight additions a pilot could need – including oversized, lumed numerals for at-aglance time-telling and an oversized, fluted crown operable with gloves. More subtly, it also has an ion plating, making it eight times harder than steel, so that whichever dial colour you go for (our vote’s the Desert Tan) the P.7 will outlast whatever you throw at it. pancerna.com

THE SPECS:

• 39mm titanium case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve • €1,149 (approx. £960), aevig.com

Aevig

Thyïlea GMT What’s more retro than the rounded TV-shaped case of a 70s-inspired timepiece? Not much, honestly – and the Thyïlea (or Thule in modern parlance) nails it. Thule means the northernmost inhabitable lands, so Alaska or Greeland, but if you were expecting an explorer’s watch think again. The pair of GMT-equipped timepieces use a fantastically angular, sporty case with an integrated bracelet, yet don’t fall into the easy rut of Gentainspired sports luxe. The Thule is very much Aevig’s own brainchild, and the brown especially is retro done right. aevig.com

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watches and accessories

O r a c le

RECOMMENDS WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

JEAN ROUSSEAU – SOFT WATCH ROLL NAVY BLUE French atelier Jean Rousseau might be best known for their diverse range of watch straps, but they are also masters of many other leather goods. One such is their soft leather watch rolls, keeping your timepieces safe on the move. Each one is made to order and handcrafted in its entirety. This navy blue calf example is particularly exquisite and demonstrates many of Jean Rousseau’s premium skills. It’s the perfect travel companion for a watch equipped with one of their blue alligator straps, perhaps. £385, available at jean-rousseau.com

MONTBLANC – 1858 GEOSPHERE ULTRABLACK LIMITED EDITION

TIDLÖS – MARIN BLACK CARBON The Marin from Tidlös captures the primary elements of Scandinavian design, while also maintaining superb ruggedness in keeping with the dynamic landscape of Scandinavia. The 43.9mm diameter stainless steel case has a helium escape valve and comes with 500m water resistance, an impressive feat considering it has an exhibition caseback. There are a number of styles available but this black carbon fibre option really captures its sporty essence. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré movement. £1,090 available from tidloswatches.com

The 1858 Geosphere UltraBlack Limited Edition from Montblanc is an homage to the famous seven summit challenge, the holy grail of mountaineering adventures. The challenge involves climbing the highest mountain on each of the Earth’s continents and the watch shows each of the requisite peaks on its two maps of the hemispheres. To further the mountaineering theme, the stainless steel case has been given a distressed look, as if it has already undergone many an expedition. £5,600, available from montblanc.com

ZULU – ALPHA STRAPS ORANGE Like many small, artisanal brands in the UK, Zulu Alpha was created with the mindset of if you can’t find the product you desire make it yourself. That product was a strap with enough quality so you can trust it with your expensive watch, but without a price tag to rival that of the watch itself. The result is military inspired polyester straps that are stronger and more durable than traditional nylon. In bright orange they’re ready for an arctic expedition. £40, available from zulualphastraps.com

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Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Tag Heuer has launched the next generation of its Connected Watch, in either 45mm or 42mm sizes. The 45mm version has been given a sporty new look, while the 42mm version focuses on being more streamlined and refined. Both offer new takes on the smart technology at the core of the connected series, giving you plenty of data at your fingertips in both sporting and business environments. They have new screens, which provide superior contrast in colour, allowing for greater readability.

Available from 10 March at tagheuer.com

style

Acqua Di Parma – Colonia C.L.U.B When it comes to presenting yourself well, it’s about more than the clothes you wear. It’s also about your confidence and attitude, both of which can be assisted by the correct eau de cologne. The Colonia C.L.U.B stands for community, life, unique, bond, symbolising the human nature to bond together in clubs. Lemon and bergamot give it a light and alluring air, which is given an earthiness with berries and black pepper, and completed by cedarwood. £54, available from acquadiparma.com

GRENSON – THE RACK M12 Made from rugged, taupe suede, the Rack M12 is a 10 eye derby boot with a versatile design to fit all sizes. Grenson produce all their Rack style boots in their Northamptonshire workshop from start to finish in highly limited numbers. The M12 has a double thickness leather sole with a natural crepe midsole for extra comfort.

Stylistically, it has the attitude of a desert explorer with sandy tones, complimented by silver tone hardware. £430, available from grenson.com

Edit Suits Edit Suits is a relatively young player in the luxury mens-tailoring sector. They were founded with the intention to combine high quality, bespoke, made-tomeasure tailoring with the modern savvy of a tech and fashion e-commerce business. To that end, while they are engaged in an industry steeped in tradition they seek to achieve the same results as their Savile Row competition, using modern techniques that reduce both the time and cost it takes to create each garment.

Book an appointment at editsuits.com

VIVVANT – LONDON BROWN PATINA JODHPUR BOOTS Vivvant fuse signature British design with Italian craftsmanship to create sophisticated footwear for the modern, urban man. The Alexis Brown Patina Jodhpur Boots are handcrafted in Florence with a hand applied patina effect that provides masculine character and that wellloved appearance that’s so desirable with leather boots.

They’re completed with a stud fastener for comfort and security on the foot as well as Vivvant’s signature triple V leather stitch logo on the back. £288, available from vivvant.co.uk

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N.PEAL – MILANO CASHMERE JACKET One of the most popular styles from N.Peal is their Milano stitch cashmere jacket with fine detailing. It’s made from 100% Mongolian organic cashmere and is also dyed organically. It has a restrained appearance with four buttons, a pair of patch pockets, a subtle breast pocket and an unobtrusive collar. N.Peal is a cashmere specialist and the Milano jacket showcases their experience with the material and understanding of modern styles. £895, available from npeal.com

Technology

NOTHING – EAR(1)

Samsung – Freestyle Anyone who tried to set up a home projector cinema even five years ago will remember how hard it was. Projectors were big, clumsy and never quite aligned to your wall or screen in the way you wanted. Now though, Samsung have introduced the Freestyle, a compact projector that’s incredibly easy to use. It can display images up to 100” in size and has in-built speakers so it’s an entire cinema in one package.

You simply have to supply a wall, screen or ceiling upon which to project. £999, available from samsung.com

At just 4.7g, ear(1) from London brand Nothing are one of the least obtrusive sets of in-ear headphones of the modern tech world. They have a unique, technical look that makes them stand out from the million Apple copycats that exist. And as a further comparison to Apple, Nothing produce them with carbon neutrality. ear(1) also includes leading technology such as intuitively pausing the music when you remove one of the devices to have a conversation and resuming when you replace it. £99, available from nothing.tech

Sonos – Move What portable speakers provide in utility and freedom of movement they often lack in sound quality. The Sonos Move has been designed to change that.

It features a lightweight construction with easy carrying grip, but also the latest music technology including the ability to tune itself to the surrounding area. Ideal for use in the home and garden or even out and about. It’s also water and shock resistant so you can keep listening to tunes no matter the environment. £399, from sonos.com

LINN – KLIMAX DSM

BOSE – QUIET COMFORT 45 Bose’s Quiet Comfort 45 headphones are best in class when it comes to combining noise cancelling technology with pure comfort. They use tiny microphones to monitor surrounding noise and cancel it out using the opposite signal, so there are fewer distractions from your music. In fact, it’s effective that they’ve implemented an Aware mode to purposely allow some external sound in to keep you safe while wearing them on the go. £314.95, available from bose.co.uk

While Linn is a company built on their fantastic turntables, they’ve also embraced contemporary means of spreading sound with their latest hi-fi music streamer system, the Klimax DSM. It won five Audio Product of the Year awards at the close of 2021, and that critical success has been replicated in how much customers love it. With a sleek and unobtrusive design, it suits any environment and is the pinnacle of the modern hi-fi experience. £30,000, available from linn.co.uk

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by MICHAEL SONSINO

M OVIE WATC H

Vanilla Sky It only seems appropriate for the Taste issue that we put our movie critic glasses on and take a look at a film that questions how art and human existence collide. Yes, it’s not to everyone’s taste (see what we did there?) but 2001 Oscar nominated, Vanilla Sky, starring Tom Cruise, Cameron Diaz and Penelope Cruz, is well worth a watch-based breakdown.

The film’s name comes from a Claude Monet painting, The Seine at Argenteuil (1873), in which the open sky appears to sweep across the scene in glorious manner. Similarly dramatic skyscapes can frequently be spotted in the background of the film, especially at the climactic moments at the end. Plus, The Seine at Argenteuil can actually be seen hanging on the wall in David Aames’ (Tom Cruise) apartment. The painterly sky gives the film a surreal atmosphere.

But that’s not all that’s surreal about it.

The plot is equally trippy. And yes, spoilers ahead. David Aames is a normal man who inherits his father’s publishing

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company. However, uninterested in running the company he instead pursues matters of the heart with Sofia (Penelope Cruz). Subsequently, a run in with his jealous ex, Julie (Cameron Diaz) results in a car crash that kills Julie and disfigures David irreparably.

At this point David wears a blank prosthetic mask to hide his scarring, looking like a slightly less creepy Michael Myers. This brings into question how human physical appearance can affect our mental state. David is driven to depression and collapses, drunk in the street. Following this he is afflicted by visions and confusing events that lead him to acts of violence, landing him in jail.

Seriously now, major spoilers ahead. It ultimately transpires that ever since he collapsed on the street he has been jailed in a lucid dream state brought about by a company called Life Extension. They keep people with terminal conditions alive until a cure can be found, and David opted into the scheme so that one day his disfigurement can eventually be repaired.

It transpires he’s been lucid dreaming for 150 years, trapped in his own nightmares.

There are plenty of hints littered throughout the film that this is what’s happening, but our favourite is the wristwatch worn by David: an IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XV, an automatic watch with the classically reserved and legible design of an aviation timepiece.

IWC and Tom Cruise are famously linked through their respective Top Gun connections, but looking beyond that, it’s a surprisingly poignant choice of wristwear for David Aames.

In the 1998/1999 IWC catalogue, released a few years prior to Vanilla Sky in 2001, the watchmaker’s slogan reads, ‘Watches From IWC. Works of art that outlive their time.’ While it might just be a tin hat conspiracy theory, there’s no way that that’s a coincidence. IWC’s slogan perfectly encapsulates the themes of Vanilla Sky, where art, existence and the ability to outlive your own time through Life Extension are core elements.