OPENWIDE v. 20.3

vol 20, issue 3

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20/20

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openwidezine.com

incoming message:

online friends ELISABETH EDWARDS editor-in-chief ALYSHA BAUER managing editor AMY THOMPSON web editor ARMIN BASHARAT creative director SAFIYA CHAGANI digital content creator EMILY ANDERSON social media curator MEGAN BISHOP cultural and entertainment editor ZOE ABERNETHY world editor MARAH MINOR fashion and lifestyle editor GRACE ARMSTRONG creative editor ELIZABETH LAM western life editor HANNAH AVIV lead graphics editor SOPHIA BELYK graphics editor

like us // facebook.com/OPENWIDEzine follow us // instagram.com/openwidezine write for us // write.openwidezine@gmail.com DISCLAIMER: the sole responsibility of this publication lies within its authors. Contents do not reflect opinions of the University Student’s Council of Western University (“USC”). The USC assumes no responsibility or liability for any error, inaccuracy, omission, or comment contained in this publication or for any use that may be made of such information by the reader.

LAUREN MEDEIROS graphics editor ALEXIA CAIN photographer MAX SHAY photographer

Table of Contents: What To Read Next Created by: OPENWIDE

1

Editor’s Note

TITLE

Elisabeth Edwards

Western Life

ARTIST

3

20 Things to Do Before the End of the School Year

4

Top 20 FIMS Courses You Should Be Taking

5 7

So, what are you doing after graduation? Tips to Land Your Dream Job Elizabeth Lam Back in Time: Western in the 1920’s Elizabeth Lam

8 9 10 11

Creative

20 Ways to Get Creative This Year Zine Canada How to Make a 2020 Vision Board What’s Happening OUTWIDE

Elizabeth Lam ft. Melody Lau Elizabeth Lam

Grace Armstrong Grace Armstrong Grace Armstrong Kevin Spiegelberg

Culture & Entertainment 13

Sex Education: Masturbation, Mental Health, and #MeToo

15 17

The Future (of Voice Assistants) is (Still) Female 20 Feminist Films from the 2010s that are Bechdel Test Failures

18 19 21

20 Fashion & Lifestyle Influencers to Follow For Inspiration Fashion in the 1920s How to be Your Own Pyschic

Fashion & Lifestyle

Elisabeth Edwards Brighid Clancy Megan Bishop

Marah Minor Marah Minor Elisabeth Edwards

World 20

2020 Bingo

22 23

Fear, Xenophobia and Racism are Spreading in Canada Compassion is Out of Fashion: Stigmas Surrounding Women’s Dress

Elisabeth Edwards Zoë Abernethy Samantha Kroontje

openWIDE//WESTERN LIFE

20 Things to Do Before the End of the Year //ELIZABETH LAM & MELODY LAU

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openWIDE//WESTERN LIFE

To p 2 0 F I M S C o u r s e s Yo u S h o u l d b e Ta k i n g //Elizabeth Lam Courses to take if you’re a non-stop-content-creating machine: DC 2204A: Intro to Graphic Design MIT 2601A/B: Introduction to Video Theory and Production MIT 3430B: Special Topics in MIT: The Theory and Practice of Making MIT 3470B: Special Topics in MIT: Mobile Journalism MIT 3664B: Special Topics in MIT: Multimedia Journalism MIT 3776A/B: Podcasting and Audio Journalism MIT 38332G: Documentary Media Courses that will boggle your mind and change your perspective about the world we live in: MIT 2151A/B: Consumer Society MIT 3216F/G: The Culture of Consumption MIT 3404F: Special Topics in MIT: Fan Cultures MIT 3935F/G: Race, Class, and Social Power Courses that will teach you anything and everything about digital marketing: DC 2001A/B: Social Media DC 2200F/G: Social Networking DC 2305F/G: Special Topics in MIT: Fundamentals of Digital Marketing DC 3209F/G: Social Media & Organizations MIT 3373F/G: Social Media & Organizations MIT 3375F/G: Social Networking Courses that will have you constantly chasing hard-hitting headlines: MIT 3833F: Arts & Entertainment Journalism MIT 3856G: Blogs, Columns, & Op Eds MIT 3857G: Public Relations

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openWIDE//WESTERN LIFE //ELIZABETH LAM

So, what are you doing after graduation?

Tips to Land Your Dream Job

At this year’s FIMS Career Conference, MIT graduates from various backgrounds and fields gave their tips and tricks that will calm your nerves for after graduation and to land your dream job.

As soon as your university journey begins, one of the most recurring questions at every family reunion, job interview, date, or friendly get-together is, “So, what do you want to do after you graduate?”

To that, most of us have a pre-rehearsed response in our back pocket that has become a habit to answer with whenever our brains are triggered by that question, “Oh, you know, I plan on doing [insert vague job title/field],” or “I plan on going to [insert a random yet notable graduate school for a random yet notable graduate program].”

Don’t worry, I see the steam coming from your ears. Believe me when I say that absolutely none of us have got it all figured out. But here are some tips from a few MIT graduates at the FIMS Career Conference 2020 about the daunting post-grad life.

Howard Fremeth Director of Communications, Business Council of Canada Western University

“There is always value in working hard” “Be a team player” “Hone your skills–whatever they may be” “Be confident, clear, and compelling” “Make your first job matter” “Network, network, network”

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Antonia McGuire Digital Communications Advisor, Immigration and Refugee Board of Canada Western University, 2004 “When you feel like you’re on the right path, lean in and surrender–follow your gut” “Follow your inner voice” “Have meaning in your work”

openWIDE//WESTERN LIFE

Thaly Tapia Manager, Corporate Partnerships, Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF) Western University, 2012 “Employers can tell when you’re willing to learn” “Apply to everything and anything–no job is too small” “Put anything into your portfolio–let employers see what you’re about” “Be memorable” “Be enthusiastic” “Be effective” “Be needed” “Roll with changes” “Don’t settle for being comfortable” “Have a good attitude” “Don’t have tunnel vision” “Network–don’t be scared to reach out to others” “Don’t burn bridges–we work in a small industry” “You’ll see your coworkers more than your family– make your job worth it”

Maximilian Specht Associate Creative Director, Artifakt Digital Western University, 2015

“If the job doesn’t feel right, it’s not right–ditch it if you get bad vibes” “If you’re not getting back what you deserve, leave” “Your classes mean everything, grades mean nothing– don’t let your grades define your passion” “The biggest pro and con to being in MIT is that your skillset is very flexible” “Skills that you didn’t know you had from MIT: - Crisis management - Communicating ideas - Explaining yourself concisely - Asserting yourself amongst the competition” “Don’t feel like you need to pay your dues” “Don’t use a semicolon if you don’t know how to” “Leverage your personality into your next interview/ job– vibe attracts tribe!”

“Be your own advocate” “Make your resume and cover letter true to you–job applications are non-formulaic, you should stand out” “Understand your value, worth, and what you bring.

If others don’t see it, move on”

MIT is a one-of-a-kind program that teaches and shapes one-of-a-kind students. You may feel discouraged by comparing yourself to the success of your peers, but remember that once you graduate Western and enter the pool of other job-hungry and eager journalism and communications graduates from around the world, your degree makes you stand out. Your way of thinking is so different from others because of all the obscure and nontraditional courses our program has to offer. When you graduate with your combined skill sets of theory and production for journalism, communications, marketing, graphics, digital media, and pretty much any other field you could want to immerse yourself in, it makes you unique to competitors. Trust in yourself, you’ve got this!

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openWIDE//WESTERN LIFE

Labatt Roadside Assistance 1929 Labatt Heritage

Ursuline Hall, Brescia Campus in 1925 Brescia

Brewers Retail Store founded in 1927, now commonly known as The Beer Store Labatt Heritage

Western Marching Band established in 1929 Official Website of Western Mustangs

Fugitive Slave Chapel of London on Thames Street in 1926 London Fuse

Back in Time: Western in the 1920’s

London Tecumsehs baseball team 1925 London Public Library

University College opened in 1924 Faculty of Arts moved in

Brescia Hall in 1920 Brescia

Wikipedia

Labatt Brewery workers at Labour Day Parade 1925

New Labatt label 1920

Labatt Heritage

Labatt Heritage

Aerial view of University College and Lawson Memorial Library 1924 London Public Library

Women’s Basketball Team 1920-1921 JP Metras Sport Museum

1924: heating plant, University College, and Science building Department of Physics and Astronomy

Western vs. Queens Football Game 1929 JP Metras Sport Museum

Ridout and Bathurst 1923 7//v20.3London Arena at London Fuse

First graduates of Brescia in 1923 Brescia

openWIDE//CREATIVE

20 Ways to Get This Year

Creative

//Grace Armstrong With every new year comes a list of resolutions or goals we want to accomplish. Instead of focusing on things you should overcome or do better, why not focus on new hobbies or ways you can tap into those creative juices for 2020?! To inspire you, here are 20 ways to get creative in 2020.

1. Take a Pottery Class 2. Take a Cooking Class 3. Learn a New Instrument 4. Listen to a New Genre of Music 5. Visit a New Place 6. Take a Painting Class 7. Write Letters to Your Friends and Family 8. Try out Calligraphy 9. Read a Book 10. Hold a Photoshoot With Your Friends 11. Listen to a Podcast 12. Stay off Social Media for the Day 13. Visit your Local Library 14. Take a Dancing Class 15. Try out Yoga or Meditation 16. Visit an Art Gallery or Museum 17. Take an Acting Class 18. Make a Collage or Vision Board (see our one for 2020 on page 12!)

19. Journal 20. Take a Nature Walk and Photograph What You See

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openWIDE//CREATIVE

ZINE CANADA

SILENTLY WONDERING, “WHY BOTHER?” SINCE 1906 Fans shocked to find out James Cordon does not actually drive in his award-winning segment Carpool Karaoke It’s definitely him singing though As expected, the new season of The Bachelor brings loads of drama following the events of ChampagneGate How convenient that none of the producers stopped Hannah Ann from opening the wrong bottle, you really CAN write this shit

Canadians in conflict over Trudeau’s choice to shop local instead of buying doughnuts from the tried and true Tim Hortons If you ask me, ChampagneGate and DoughnutGate just sounds like a really good night in

Trump announces new Star Trek Spin-off

Oh, nevermind. It’s just the United States Space Force logo.

The new branch of the U.S Military, The Space Force, reveals it’s new uniforms.. and they’re camouflage green… for space.

How many trees are they expecting to encounter out there?

An upcoming Nancy Drew comic sparks backlash for portraying the heroine’s death

Killing off a female lead so two men can have the spotlight does not seem like the best way to celebrate the 90th anniversary of a beloved feminist character, but okay.

Gwenyth Paltrow’s new Netflix show, The Goop Lab premiered this past January

Surprisingly, not as problematic as we thought. Still not about to try vaginal steaming or injecting my face with my own blood though

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#DollyPartonChallenge

openWIDE//CREATIVE

How to Make a 2020 Vision Board With a new year comes

//GRACE ARMSTRONG

the inevitable: New Year’s Resolutions. Instead of making a list of goals or challenges for myself to accomplish in 2020, I used images to put together a visual of what I want to manifest and bring into my life for the year. The tools of visualization and manifestation can be very powerful! Manifesting helps me work on trusting what it is I want for myself and how I can create positive thoughts and actions that will bring about change or desire in my life. When you make a vision board, it allows for a great reminder of these intentions you set for the new year. Just the act of looking at the board on your way out to class and thinking about what you put on it is an act of manifestation.

But how to make one? Well, start by collecting old magazines or picking up some past issues of OpenWide from FNB. Flip through them for inspiration. Is there a quote or image that really resonates with you? Or just a nice picture of Harry Styles? It all works! If you find that too broad or overwhelming, then make a list of positive things you want for your 2020 year and then take a look and see what images fit.

T I P S N’ T R I C k S

// Want to manifest romantic love in 2020?

Put a picture of your favourite celebrity or key words you’re looking for in a partner.

// Looking for that great summer job?

Put mages of books or of things that will drive you to send that application and join that extra-curricular to build your resume.

// Just wanting to de-stress and learn to take care of yourself?

Paste images of things that relax you or you love to look at. Use the vision board as anchor for mediation or centering yourself on a stressful day and fill it with things that make you happy.

There are no rules, and that’s part of what makes collaging and vision boarding so much fun.

Bring in some paints or glitter glue to really make it your own. I love to layer with old film photos and pieces of patterned scrap paper. Round up a few of your friends and a bottle of wine and get crafty!

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openWIDE//CREATIVE

What’s Happening OutWide

A bulletin on items, pop culture, and local events we think you should check out!

The Hyland:

// Kevin Spiegelberg

The big comfy recliners at our neighbourhood Cineplex are great, but the concentration of ownership isn’t. Cineplex is amidst a large acquisition from UK theatre exhibitioner Cineworld which will make it the largest cinema chain in North America. Stop by the The Hyland and support a local independently owned cinema headed by a passionate team of film scholars and veteran projectionists that strive to deliver an authentic film going experience you can’t find anywhere else. Follow Retro-Mania at The Hyland Cinema on Facebook to keep up on their latest announcement of classic movies shown once a month, often on 35mm film prints rather than aura-less digital prints. Victor, one of the last full-time in-house projectionists in Ontario has amassed quite the collection of once coveted high quality projection equipment in liquidation sales after the switch to digital. This state-of-the-art vintage equipment will surely provide a traditional movie-going experience that is unmatched. SilverCity isn’t showing that quirky A24 produced film?

The Hyland’s got it. Too busy writing papers to catch all the Oscar nominated films while they’re at the multiplex? The Hyland will have it for a bit longer. Looking for a niche documentary to supplement your scholarly research? The Hyland probably has it. Bonus? it’s cheap too. For showtimes visit hylandcinema.com.

Wortley Village: Los Lobos: Some of us MIT pupils would argue that the proliferation This modern Mexican restaurant elevates Taco of digital network technologies in the 21st century has Tuesday to a whole other level. Enter the quaint spurred a loneliness epidemic where meaningful face little restaurant decked out in décor straight to face communication is dwindling. The perfect out of a Day of the Dead celebration and try antidote to that is a trip to Wortley Village. The some of the tacos or tequila that they pride neighbourhood is often described as a town themselves on. It doesn’t stop at tacos and within a city and features a strip of restaurants, tequila though, try any item off of their small boutiques, galleries, and parks that are all but mighty menu like enchiladas, queso, community based and strive to create a social burritos or their famous forty dollar nachos. atmosphere. Check out this quaint and affluent Pair it with a delicious margarita or local craft neighbourhood and stop in at one of the many bars brew for a meal you‘ll remember for the coming or cafes to meet and engage with other members of the weeks. Here’s a tip— Go on a Friday or Saturday and London community. look for the eyes on their owl statuette and if they’re lit ask the hostess about the upstairs speakeasy cocktail bar “Nite Owl” for fun that feels exclusive. It’s first come first serve so arrive early or be prepared to wait 40 minutes to an hour for a table.

Covent Garden Market/Original Kids Theatre Company: This downtown London essential features a wide array of cuisines and foods. Piping hot potato soup paired with a spinach and cheese phyllo pastry and an Italian gelato for dessert? Yes please! Drop off your leather to be repaired or get a massage before heading upstairs to watch some of the best amateur children’s theatre you can buy.

Watch the future Amber Marshalls and Rachel McAdams perform live shows at the coveted Original Kids Theatre company. This indoor market has it all, and even if you aren’t there for the theatre, eats, or any of the other services they facilitate, the aesthetic appeal of the atmosphere and the sheer amount of things to look at make it a fun place to chillout, study, and waste away an afternoon.

Ice Skating @ Vic Park: A selfie at the Victoria park ice rink is almost as essential as the squad pic at Barney’s after your last exam. This outdoor ice rink is open daily from 10am -10pm until March 22nd and is absolutely free if you bring your own pair of skates. Skate rentals are $7.00, and skate sharpening is only $6.00. Take a night off from bingeing Netflix and scrolling through the Insta and get some friends together for a skate. Warm up your toes after at Symposium, or Williams Café directly across the street.

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openWIDE//CREATIVE

Heroes Cards and Comics:

Doug Mann’s Comic book cultures class may have been cancelled this term, but our interests don’t have to be squandered! Take on a little self guided learning one afternoon and visit the largest comic bookstore in all of southwestern Ontario. All of the employees there are friendly and can talk comics all day long. They are ripe and ready to give excellent recommendations to anybody that asks and are quite knowledgeable on the golden and silver ages of comic books, as well as the contemporary stuff. Hold off on your venture until the first Saturday of May when they, as well as other London comic book stores, host Free Comic Book Day. Whether it be stories about the popular heroes that Hollywood will make more CGI filled blockbuster instalments about, or the more low-key and very FIMS graphic novel Private Eye, Heroes has something for everyone. Heroes is located at 186 Dundas street.

Hot Sauce Expo: This February spice is coming, and it won’t hold back. On the 29th over 40 vendors will gather at Centennial Hall in an attempt to melt their patrons’ faces. Ranging from the marginally spicy to the orifice throbbing kind, London will host its annual Heatwave Hot Sauce Expo. Attendees can indulge in endless hot sauce sampling, watch or participate in a spicy wing and hot pepper eating contests, a spicy chilli cook off, and witness Mike Jack attempt to beat his current Guinness World Record by eating 11 ghost peppers in one minute. Whether you’re in it to test your own limits, try some delicious hot-sauce, or merely gawk at the spectacle of people putting themselves through such pain, look no further than this once a year opportunity and get your tickets at heatwaveexpo.com. About $8 for general admission.

Illbury + Goose: “Truly Unique, Entirely Canadian” is their motto. Clever marketing aside, they are a locally founded company that is dedicated to producing sustainable garments and other accessories for the home. No doubt you’ve seen their signature anchor with a maple leaf being donned by all of the London locals. Everything from sweatpants, hoodies, crewneck sweaters, and t-shirts are part of their evergreen line coming out with new items like artisan honey, candles, hats, and flannels. If you’re in the market for some new clothes this winter season, skip the fast fashion outlets and invest in some home-grown pieces. Check them out on Illburyandgoose.com or at their brick and mortar store located at 884 Dundas Street East.

Forest City Killer/Murder City: Extending beyond campus and Richmond Row, London gets the reputation of being a boring town with not a whole lot going on. But, at one point throughout the 1970s and the mid 80s London was the serial killer capital of the world and the cases remain mostly unsolved to this day. Tickle your true crime bone with either of these books unpacking the villainy underneath the surface of our unsuspecting Ontario town. The books are written by London locals; Vanessa Brown writer of Forest City Killer is a local historian who also runs the local antiquarian bookstore Brown & Dickson, and Michael Andrew Arntfield writer of Murder City who teaches at Western and operates the Cold Case Society here on Campus. Both books are chock-full of the rich history of this little city and certainly raise questions of whether any of these killers are still walking amongst us today. If you’ve exhausted the true crime titles on Netflix either of these books are great options to satiate your true crime hankerings.

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openWIDE//CULTURE AND ENTERTAINMENT

Season Two of Netflix’s Sex Education: Masturbation, Mental Health, and #MeToo //ELISABETH EDWARDS

SPOILER ALERT: This article contains juicy deets from Sex Education Season Two, you’ve been warned!

S

eason Two of Netflix’s hit show Sex Education burst onto our binge-watch lists on January 17th, with our favourite characters returning to the small screen with more fervour and body fluids than ever before.

This season kicks off featuring Otis, one of the show’s main characters, exploring his new found favourite (ahem) hobby in an epic montage. The (ahem, again) climax of the show doesn’t stop there, this season is packed with powerful commentaries on sexuality, mental health, and the #MeToo movement. Season Two does not disappoint when it comes to outrageous and hilarious anecdotes from “my cum tastes like kimchi!” to cheese-induced erections and air-borne chlamydia hysteria. While the show is funny, explicitly epic, and brutally honest, this season also has a lot to say about the current climate young people live in today.

One of the most moving and relatable storylines this season was Aimee’s experience with sexual assault. Aimee Gibbs (played by Aimee Lou Wood) is a close friend of Maeve (the edgy intellectual and Otis’ sex clinic business partner), especially since her fall from popularity as part of the “untouchable” clique at Moordale High. However, this doesn’t stop her sparkling, energetic personality from shining through. In episode three, she takes her normal bus route to school with an eccentric pink birthday cake for Maeve when she finds the man she stands next to is masturbating on her jeans.

When she arrives at school, she brushes off the event as she tells Maeve what happened.

Maeve urges her to report it to the police, who interviewed her and take her jeans as evidence.

As the season progresses, Aimee begins to grapple with the gravity of her experience. Her character clearly tries to rationalize the incident as not worthy of being called assault, something that the majority of females who encounter sexual assaults also face. Aimee’s experience speaks to a much larger issue that stems from graphic representations of gender based violence and sexual assault representations that often depict rape or other explicit attacks as the only legitimate form of abuse. In reality, sexual abuse exists in countless iterations with countless effects. For Aimee, the bus becomes a reminder which triggers anxiety and makes it difficult to get to school or see friends which only contributes to feeling more alienated.

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openWIDE//CULTURE AND ENTERTAINMENT The seventh episode eventually leads to Aimee reconciling with her experience, when she lands in detention with Maeve, Olivia, Ola, Lily, and Viv. They all begin to share their own encounters with sexual assault, something that one in three women will experience in their lifetime while only 5% of victims report their attacks to the police. These statistics, while extremely harrowing, are at the forefront of Sex Education this season, and they provide vital representation to a targeted audience in the hopes of encouraging more young women to report gender based violence and sexual assault to the authorities. It also encourages an open conversation between survivors, similar to dialogues facilitated through the #MeToo movement. This scene sheds light on the realities of the lived female experience while mobilizing an online movement and placing it into a real life environment.

There are also more familiar, continuing storylines this season.

Jackson, Moordale’s head boy and swimming champion, breaks (his hand) under the pressure of his mother’s dreams for his swimming career. He pursues a part in the school play as an act of defiance against the pressures of his family, which is not an entirely new trope in teen TV but it does allow him to reconcile the tense relationship he shares with his mothers and carves a new direction for his character. Maeve also continues her ongoing rocky relationship with her mother (who is recovering from narcotics addiction) as she oscillates between pushing her away and welcoming her back into her life. Both Jackson and Maeve handle their family struggles as best they can outside of school, often presenting different personalities in public as a way of keeping distance from their peers.

We also learn a lot from male characters like Otis and Eric as they fumble through some of their first romantic relationships. Otis, played by Asa Butterfield, is shameless in his sexual exploits in the best of ways. We see him masterbating A LOT, dealing with spontaneous boners A LOT, and trying his best in his relationship with Ola. Eric navigates a new relationship with his boyfriend Rahim and his secret affair with Adam, Ola discovering her attraction to Lily, and the inclusion of adult sexuality and pleasure (Adam’s mom really has it goin’ on) are just some of the highlights in this season. The show also provides us with so many versions of what “normal” sex and sexualities look like, which makes it both radically inclusive to all viewers and radically exclusive to any other teen TV show. It teaches young people to explore their bodies and their sexualities while representing broad spectrums of ableness, sexuality, race, gender, and class - somehow, this show has something for everyone! I only wish my highschool sex ed curriculum could be as informative, alternative, and human as Sex Education is! (shhh, don’t tell Doug Ford).

Maybe the government won’t educate you on sex ed, but in the meantime you can educate yourself and watch Sex Education on Netflix! Here’s to more sex clinics, vagina workshops, and HOPEFULLY a Maevis relationship (anyone else shipping Otis and Maeve?) next season.

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openWIDE//CULTURE AND ENTERTAINMENT

The Future (of Voice Assistants) is (Still) Female: Siri, Alexa, and Samantha from Spike Jonze’s Her

//BRIGHID CLANCY Our relationship with technology today continuously grows more intimate. With voice assistants at our leisure, people can talk to their phones for information or conversation. As technology advances, the world is beginning to look like a sci-fi movie, specifically Spike Jonze’s Her. People are having meaningful relationships and even falling in love with a computer operating system of their choosing; an operating system that has a conscience and is so intelligent that they cannot be told apart from a human being. One major issue the film conveys that is also reflected in the real world is engendering voice assistants and reinforcing old stereotypes about women.

When Apple Inc. first released the iPhone with Siri, it was remarkable that a user could ask a question or say a command and it would listen to you. Throughout the history of Apple’s iPhones and their evolving technology, having voice assistants is something that users have become accustomed to, and cannot see themselves living without. According to an Amazon spokesperson, when asked about why they use a female voice for Alexa, they shared that, “Studies all over the world have shown that the female voice is perceived as more pleasant, friendly and relaxed (than the male).” Despite Siri having an obvious female sounding voice, when asked what her gender is, she says, “Don’t let my voice fool you, I don’t have a gender.” This can be misleading for users because Siri does, in fact, have a gender; it is programmed to be a woman.

Siri is a female name meaning beautiful victory and is given feminine speech patterns. She is attentive, supportive and submissive. The user has control over when Siri can talk; she will only respond when she is addressed. Additionally, Siri places her own assertions before she responds.

She might say, ‘I think’, or ‘I’m not sure’. Apple does not want Siri to appear too confident or bossy. Siri is programmed to sound helpful and cooperative. She often uses a playful and flirtatious tone, but she is unable to have a conversation like Samantha (voiced by Scarlett Johansson) in Her.

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Representations of artificial intelligence in films such as Her are sexualized and gendered female to play a more subservient role. When the option was given to Apple users that they could now choose between a male or a female voice, most users predominantly chose female. Despite the report from the UN finding that users think male voices sound insistent and strong while female voices sound kind and nurturing.

Both Siri and Samantha in Her have limitations. Siri is only programmed to accomplish certain tasks like making recommendations and answering questions.

Siri is not intellectually equipped yet to discuss your feelings and darkest secrets. Samantha can provide the film’s protagonist Theodore (Joaquin Phoenix) with everything that he is looking for in a partner. Samantha can be whatever Theodore wants and needs her to be. It is easier for Theodore to feel a genuine connection with Samantha given that she is disembodied. He cannot see machinery, so he is able to fantasize about what she would look like.

openWIDE//CULTURE AND ENTERTAINMENT When watching Her, viewers see an intimate relationship between human and voice technology, a future that is a lot closer than one would initially think. In Her, viewers are taught that machines and evolving technology is not something that we need to be afraid of, but rather embrace the benefits that a voice assistant can have in your life. For Theodore, voice assistants are someone that he can be freely open with, without fear of judgement. He can also develop his emotional skills by practicing how to communicate more effectively with humans. Their relationship is a danger to people living in 2020. While the limitations voice assistants have are obvious (one is human and the other is an intellectual operating system), films like Her demonstrate the possibility of forming a relationship with an artificial being.

The film highlights what it is like to communicate with a machine that’s intellect matches that of a human. Theodore is comforted and feels safe when he speaks to her. He can discuss his divorce with her and things that he has never told anyone before. Director Spike Jonze is playing with the idea of exploring a non-traditional relationship that he believes may eventually happen in our lifetime. Theodore believes Samantha to be the ideal woman for him. He can tell a female more about his life and emotional stresses, because stereotypically, women are more caring, kind and nurturing.

Samantha is framed as both a motherly figure and romantic partner to Theodore.

Her emphasizes a harsh feeling that many of us are experiencing now; we are disconnected from our relationships because we are spending too much time with our technology. For a lot of people, they cannot leave their house without their phone or have the urge to check notifications every 5 minutes, even though nothing new has happened. It is obvious that we are addicted to technology. Theodore has closed himself off emotionally and has not allowed himself to feel anymore.

But Samantha, as far as he knows, will always be there for him. Whereas ‘real’ relationships are not necessarily forever. Theodore is afraid of getting hurt again, so it is easier for him to close himself off emotionally and not to feel.

Voice Assistants like Siri and Alexa are made female to reinforce the gender stereotype that women are always meant to help and serve their companion. When a user makes a rude or illicit comment to Siri or Alexa, they will tend to apologize or thank them for the ‘compliment’. These statements lead users to believe that this is an acceptable way to treat women, like their assistants who will not talk back or stand up for themselves. This is due to the apparent lack of women who work and are involved with the making of artificial intelligence. Women only represent 12% of A.I. researchers and only 6% working in the software engineering of these technologies. Males mostly oversee making and implementing this technology. This could be a contributing factor as to why women are always the voice assistants.

It is critical that we move forward and do not automatically use female voices for these home technologies. Even if we do not realize it, it is changing the way younger generations view gender relationships. Sci-fi films like Her further complicate this as they similarly reinforce stereotypes about traditional female roles. Can assistive technology only be deemed helpful if given a female voice?

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openWIDE//CULTURE AND ENTERTAINMENT

20 Feminist Films from the 2010s that are Bechdel Test Failures //MEGAN BISHOP

1. The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (2011) 2. Gravity (2013) 3. Pacific Rim (2013) 4. Under the Skin (2013) 5. Edge of Tomorrow (2014) 6. The Imitation Game (2014) 7. Jane Got a Gun (2015) 8. Mission Impossible: Rogue Nation (2015) 9. Sicario (2015) 10. Arrival (2016) 11. Star Trek Beyond (2016) 12. Colossal (2016) 13. Revenge (2017) 14. Thor: Ragnarok (2017) 15. Bad Times at the El Royale (2018) 16. Spider-Man: Into the Spiderverse (2018) 17. A Quiet Place (2018) 18. Deadpool 2 (2018) 17//v20.3

The 2010’s brought major attention to the representation of women in Hollywood cinema. Each year emphasized the importance of women on screen while critics and social media users used their voices to declare the problems of certain representations and depictions of women.

An easy test that has been used since it was published in 1985 is the Bechdel Test.

If you have never heard of this creation by illustrator and writer Alison Bechdel, it has 3 requirements for a film to pass:

(1) feature two female characters that

(2) have a conversation about

(3 something other than a man.

While this test can be a great way for film viewers to decide what films they want to support, it is misleading as some films that fail this feature incredible female characters.

There is no one answer to determine if a film is feminist; everyone has a different idea as to what positive representation can look like. As a storytelling medium, some stories do not involve many characters, or include multiple women but they do not have a conversation.

When compiling this list, I set my own set of requirements that the film had to accomplish at least one: (1) the film features a female character in a prominent role (2) the film features a female character who is just as skilled or capable as the male characters (3) feature multiple female characters with their own storylines or backstories that are not dependent on men or (4) directed by a woman.

While these films do not pass the Bechdel Test, I believe that they all feature positive female representation in 2010s cinema.

openWIDE//FASHION & LIFESTYLE

T o p 2 0 Fa s h i o n / L i f e s t y l e I n f l u e n c e r s T o F o l l o w o n I n s ta g r a m //Marah Minor Christine Tyler @nycbambi Danielle Bernstein @weworewhat Marie von Behrens @mvb Allegra Shaw @allegrashaw Hannah Godwin @hannahg11 Xenia Adonts @xeniaadonts

@bestdressed

Alex Lovsin @allovsin Elsa Hosk @hoskelsa Lauren Elizabeth @laurenelizabeth Allana Davison @allanaramaa @vivianhoorn @hoskelsa

Ashley @bestdressed Kelsey Simone @k.els.e.y Katy Bellotte @katybellotte @xeniaadonts

Matilda Djerf @matildadjerf Taylor Frankel @taylor_frankel Vivian Hoorn @vivianhoorn Rosie Huntington-Whiteley @rosiehw Tess Christine @tesschristinexo Jaye Green @jayegreen Jessie Andrews @jessieandrews @nycbambi

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Fashion in the 1920s

openWIDE//FASHION & LIFESTYLE

//Marah Minor As we start 2020 off, we are bombarded with upcoming trends of the year which will include puffy sleeves, utility jumpsuits, leather all year (dresses, jackets, pants), unusual trench coats and more! Trends over the years come and go with time, known as the pendulum swing of fashion, which is when fashion swings from one extreme to another, reaching its full form and then moves back toward an opposite trend.

That’s why we see similarities and repeats of fashion trends over the years. Let’s take a leap back 100 years ago to see what people were wearing in the roaring 20s and if it is comparable to today.

Corsets were still worn in the 1920s as shapewear, but were on the decline as brasieres took hold. Being flat chested was the ideal for women even though the first brassiere was born right before in 1914, made of two hankies and a ribbon. Today, we still see shapewear such as Spanx and Kim Kardashian-West’s new collection SKIMS. Corsets are not popular for everyday, however the trend as lingerie as outerwear for evening events started to take hold in 2018/2019, but seems to be slowly dying for this upcoming year.

3.

An item that constantly changed itself during the roaring 20s was the skirt. The skirt length often varied between up at the knees to down at the ankles. Again, the fit was less structured and hung loosely. Today, skirts that hit about midcalf are a huge trend. This versatile piece has been all the hype this past while as it can be worn casually or more dressed up, with a tied up sweater or simple t-shirt, with either boots or sneakers depending on the look.

1.

. Hats may have been the biggest trend of the 1920s.

4 Summer hats included woven, straw and cotton, where

winters hats were usually felt or cloche, which meant “bell” as it was shaped with a smaller brim and a rounded crown.

Currently, there are no huge hat trends that have sparked attention in the fashion world.

2 .

In the mid to late 1920s, Chanel helped to create the androgynous silhouette. Instead of women dressing hyperfeminine, they started to wear items that were straighter, less hugging of the body, and thus hid the waist. After this, casual sportswear became popular, which prioritized comfort and a relaxed fit. Tennis uniforms and golfing outfits were some looks that encompassed this sporting attire. Today, athleisure is a very popular trend since the birth of Canadian company Lululemon.

Comfortable clothing is a key factor when consumers are looking for pieces.

Also, androgynous wear is extremely popular among young adults as conforming to stereotypes of masculine or feminine dress has faded.

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If this information interests you, I highly recommend taking Women’s Studies 2164: Gender and Fashion. This is where I got most of my historical fashion knowledge.

t i Ed

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0 2 20

! n io

B I N G O

Trump gets impeached

you become TikTok famous

witness a goose attack a student

KFC creates Beyond Meat fried chicken

FIMS student wearing a denim jacket

someone asks you what MIT means

OPENWIDE sticker on a laptop

Amazon Prime delivers with drones

World War 3 begins

single use plastics are banned at Western

Meghan and Harry become queen and king of Canada

free space

mistakenly writes “2019” on notes

Bernie Sanders wins Democratic Nomination

HOCO is moved back to original date

Joe Biden becomes president

the working class siezes the means of production

have more see than one someone iced coffee charging with almond their Juul milk in a in class day

can’t find a seat at Weldon

an episode of Black Mirror happens IRL

write your tenth essay of the month

Kanye West starts a successful cult

self driving ubers come to London

the medium is no longer the message

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openWIDE//FASHION & LIFESTYLE

How to Be Your Own Psychic ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Lis is a FIMS student, and local intuitive psychic and energy healer who has been practicing professionally for over three years. She offers oracle card readings, chakra balancing, and soul guidance sessions from her home in London.

Let’s go on a little vision-quest, shall we? Start by imagining what a psychic looks like to you; a crystal ball, velvet everywhere, strange herbs, potions even? I’m sorry but no amount of Sabrina episodes on Netflix could prepare you for the real answer. Just look in the mirror - a psychic looks just like you!

I know what you’re thinking: I don’t have any special powers, I can’t talk to dead people, and that rose quartz I bought last year hasn’t brought me any romance! But what if I told you we all had access to psychic powers?

something out of the corner of your eye, but dismiss it as just the light? Do you ever smell or hear things that you can’t seem to identify the source of? Are you a sensitive person who absorbs other people’s stress when they talk about how overwhelmed with school work they are? Or maybe you find yourself drawn to crystals or cards or chakra work? If you said no to any of those things - don’t worry, it’s not a requirement! The only requirement is your willingness to try something new regardless of how weird or crazy it may feel. Here is your crash course to awakening your inner psychic

We all have a small voice inside our heads that speaks up when we feel this energy, but the older we get the more we are trained to ignore it. Do you ever see

Creating a Peaceful Space

Regardless of what you’re planning on practicing (yoga, meditation, card readings, dreaming) you should work to keep a space that is peaceful and “clear” of negative energy. For most of us, our bedrooms are the perfect space! Here are some simple things you can do to make a peaceful, safe space.

Cleanse: Finding a cleansing practice that works for you is key!

I mostly smudge with white sage (a practice used by many Indigenous cultures that uses smoke from sacred medicines to cleanse), but you can also use incense, candles, or anything that you can reach for to help make your room feel comfortable.

Remove Clutter: Be sure to keep your room physically and energetically clean! Our spaces will impact our mental state, so a clean room means a peaceful mind!

Bring in some nature: Having living things in your space will also help to make it feel calming! Houseplants are a great place to start. Using live plants will keep the air clean, bring some life

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to your room, and most importantly they are way better for the environment than plastic plants! You can also forage greenery, branches, or cool rocks and trinkets to bring the outside indoors.

Let the light in: I don’t know about you, but my room is all about the perfect lighting. I can’t stand harsh, bright lights - especially since us students have to sit under them all day in classrooms!

Opening the curtains to let in natural light will help cleanse the space (and get you some of that vitamin D!) You can also try fairy lights, lamps, and candles in the evening to keep the serene vibe going!

openWIDE//FASHION & LIFESTYLE Using Crystals Crystals are getting more and more mainstream lately, and I’m so happy that more people are opening up to their abilities! A crystal is really just a rock or mineral that attunes to a specific frequency that gives it healing abilities. Crystals are everywhere, there is quartz in your cell phone, silicon in your laptop, and LCD TV’s use liquid crystal to conduct energy.

Healing crystals like amethyst, citrine, and quartz are used in countless ways, but the number one tip for finding the perfect crystal is this: do not pay any attention to what the purpose or meaning of it is.

Many crystal shops will have a use or property attached to each crystal, and often it makes it really hard to find the right one if someone is telling you what you need. When I buy crystals, I never look up their uses or meanings, I simply buy what I’m drawn to. Often you’ll find one that feels extra beautiful to you, or you’ll pick it up and just can’t seem to put it down - just pay attention to how it makes you feel. Does it make you shake? Does it make you feel calm, or grounded, or uplifted?

Once you find one that gives you the feeling you are looking for, buy it and look up it’s meaning after - you’ll be pretty surprised at just how perfect it is for you without you knowing why you bought it!

If you’re really new to crystals, here are a few “basic” ones to start with Citrine: Called “the merchant’s stone”, Citrine is known to manifest

Connecting to Your Higher Self

This is the most important part of becoming your own psychic! No amount of crystals, tapestries, and incense will magically activate your “powers” - in fact you don’t have to buy anything at all. All you need is yourself - your higher self to be exact.

What is my higher self? It goes by many names: Soul, Universe, or God to name a few, but you can call it whatever you want! Think of your higher self like the iCloud on your phone: your soul is way too big to fit all inside of one small body, so it exists beyond and outside of your body.

The higher wisdom, intuition, and guidance you seek all exists in this outer cloud, you just have to know how to access it.

How do I access my higher self? It’s actually easier than you think!

Get Centred: The first step is to find a quiet, comfortable spot to sit on your own. Take the time to set the space so you won’t have any distractions - that means putting your phone on Airplane Mode, dimming the lights, finding any comfort like a candle or crystal or blanket, and finally settling in to a seated position. You may also want to keep a journal nearby to write down any revelations after!

Breathe: I don’t want to use the word “meditate” here because it has so many negative connotations when it comes to your thoughts! The goal here is to listen to your thoughts, not make them go away. Start by doing some deep breathing and focusing your attention on a focal point or feeling like the rise and fall of your diaphragm. Just try to become present, put all your worries aside and focus on the reality that lies beyond your inner dialogue.

Ask, and it is Given: This is one of my favourite little quotes - it describes the Universe perfectly! If you are trying to access anything (a partner, money, or intuitive power) all you need to do is ask then wait to receive.

It may take some time, the Universe will need to adjust your path and the others involved, but it will come. In this case, ask (in your head or out loud): may I have permission to talk with my higher self? Usually, I feel an upward energy in my spine instanting, almost as if my attention

money, improves imagination, and attract positivity. It also helps to heal chronic fatigue. To me, this stone always looks like a little nugget of sunshine - I can’t help but smile when I see one!

Amethyst: Connected to your third eye and crown chakras, Amythest is perfect for expanding your intuitive power! It is also calming, making it a great stone for those who suffer with anxiety or trouble sleeping.

Black Tourmaline: One of the best cleansing crystals! If you feel attacked by negative energy, or struggle with anxiety and depression, this stone is a great sponge for absorbing those overwhelming thoughts.

I often bring this stone with me to class or exams and use it like a fidget toy.

Fluorite: This stone is all about protection! I use this for psychic protection, which makes it especially helpful when you are first starting on your psychic journey. We can often become too open once we discover our intuitive power, acting like a beacon for entities to come in and mess with your energy. Use this stone when you meditate or using tarot cards!

Quick Tip: Once you buy a crystal, make sure to cleanse it to clear any unwanted energy and make room for your own! You can soak them overnight in a bowl of salt water, or cleanse with herbs like sage or cedar.

focuses on the third eye (between your eyebrows) - this is how I know I’ve connected to my higher self. Once you’re “connected”, ask for the knowledge you seek. Ask “how do I learn to manifest my future?”, “what can I do to be more calm?” or you can ask very specific questions about yourself or others in your life.

Listen Closely: This is by far the most important part, and it can sometimes take awhile to learn (but practice makes perfect!) All you do is listen to your thoughts after you ask your question. Often it will be the very first thought that jumps into your head - listen to it, and don’t rationalize it away. Maybe the answer you hear makes no sense to you, but by listening and running with that thought you will begin to open up your intuition to new realms, new knowledge, and new power. If this doesn’t happen right away, don’t worry! These things take time, maybe your answer will trickle down into your subconscious in a dream, or appear in a conserversation the next day.

Follow Up: Once you feel like you’ve received an answer, be sure to close off that doorway to your higher self. Leaving this open can sometimes lead to overwhelming energy that can cause you to be more anxious or manic. Say thank you, then focus your attention on the ground. Imagine roots coming from your legs and feet, connecting you to the present moment. You can also imagine warm wax dripping down from your head, hardening and sealing off the higher chakra points (crown and third eye).

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Fear, Xenophobia and Racism are Spreading in Canada (Unlike the Coronavirus) “In one of the first weeks back to a new semester, I was walking to class with an acquaintance when I briefly mentioned the Coronavirus hysteria that has been gripping the global community as well as Western’s campus. They immediately ran with the opportunity to rant a long list of ill-informed, racist, and xenophobic beliefs that went something along the lines of: “why do these stupid people eat bats?! Why didn’t they shut down the entire county a month ago? They knew about it and said nothing, and now they are all coming back to campus after winter break or going to visit for Chinese New Year and we are all FUCKED.” Yes, the word fucked came up multiple times; and yes, “they” really means Chinese international students. I could tell how uncomfortable those around us were, and after attempting to show them some perspective I changed the subject when I realized they just weren’t getting it”.

- Elisabeth Edwards, 4th year FIMS student

As students at a predominantly white school in the West, many of us are probably more familiar with encountering casual racism in group settings than we’d like to be. There’s probably someone, or some people, that come to mind when reading the story above, people who casually reinforce racist and xenophobic stereotypes/ideas as if they were simple, harmless facts. My point is that it would be wrong to say that xenophobia has ever gone away; however, it’s definitely become less socially acceptable and therefore less commonly expressed in public settings, less often directed at racialized people, more often discussed in groups of friends or in virtual spaces such as social media, where people feel safe. Before the Coronavirus hysteria hit, casual racism in regard to Chinese people often manifested in some form of the model minority stereotype; “positive” racism about Chinese people being studious, hardworking, rich international students and so on. While the harm caused by this kind of racism should not be dismissed, particularly because the mobilization of “positive” stereotypes can be conflated with neoliberal multiculturalism, making it harder to identify as an issue (a problem beyond the scope of this article), things took an ugly turn when news of the Coronavirus and its origin hit.

Hence, while xenophobia and racism were never really gone, there has been a noticeable shift in what is considered acceptable in discussions of Chinese people since news of the coronavirus broke. It’s almost

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//Zoe ABERNETHY

as if a switch was flipped, and the superficial “political correctness” of our digital generation disappeared into thin air; “positive” or casual racism turned back into blatant xenophobia and racism directed at Chinese people, no longer contained in the comment section on Instagram or in private conversations. As soon as mainstream news picked up on the coronavirus story, the amount of Instagram and Twitter posts I saw either making jokes about the virus, or voicing disgust about the animals that “Chinese people” eat, was appalling.

News of this virus revived old, absurd and harmful stereotypes about Chinese people being unhygienic and eating animals like dogs, cats and bats. While I’m reluctant to even address these stereotypes, I’ll just say this: if it wasn’t obvious, the vast majority of Chinese people don’t eat these kinds of animals, and the few who do are doing so in specific contexts, like living in poverty or being geographically isolated in very rural areas. It’s also important to remember that our concept of what animals should and shouldn’t be eaten is culturally, historically and socially constructed. Furthermore, it actually doesn’t matter how many people in China may or may not eat certain animals (though none of my friends had heard of bats being eaten, let alone being a delicacy), because regardless of the details, those being affected by the Coronavirus do not deserve to have it, nor are they at fault for contracting it, especially considering that it spread through human contact.

The impacts of the mass hysteria (and ensuing racism/ xenophobia) that the constant news updates on the virus spreading have ensured go far beyond the Instagram comment section. One friend told me that he missed half a week of classes because he had a cough; despite feeling okay and not having been to China for years he “didn’t want to scare people”. Another friend, whose family and friends are in Wuhan, told me that he cleared his throat in class and the people sitting behind him left. Many others who either are, or appear to be Chinese, describe people covering their mouths around them, as if they themselves were a virus.

Imagine being on the other side of the world from your family and hearing that a potentially fatal virus is spreading throughout the country that your family and friends live in. You’d probably be very worried, stressed out and scared for their well-being. Now, imagine that you go online, and instead of seeing people empathize with those impacted by the

epidemic, you see jokes, memes, and xenophobic takes on the issue, which essentially imply that it’s your entire home country’s fault that this outbreak has occurred.

That would probably feel pretty shitty, right? Well, you still have to live your life, so you continue to go to class, go buy groceries and try to feel normal, but people are literally treating you like you physically embody this virus that you don’t have, but that is causing you serious mental distress because your family members are far more likely to catch it than anybody in the West.

Nobody deserves to experience the xenophobia and the misdirected, unwarranted fear that this virus has provoked, yet far too many are forced to.

On January 29th, the President of Western University Alan Shepard announced via email the creation of the President’s Anti-Racism Working Group, a task force to address racism on campus. The timing of this email directly corresponds with the rise in racist, xenophobic hysteria surrounding exchange students and Coronavirus. In the following few days, Western’s social media accounts have shared a handful of reminders to not channel fear of the virus into xenophobic and racist attitudes towards Chinese students. I’ve also seen a few other social media posts that debunk some of the misinformation that much of the xenophobic reactions to the epidemic are based upon, though there are still a disproportionate number of fear-mongering, xenophobic posts circulating simultaneously.

Toronto’s mayor John Tory also publicly spoke out against the rise of racism and xenophobia towards Chinese people in Toronto, re-emphasising that the actual risk of the Coronavirus impacting Canadians in any significant way is low. That said, when researching news reports on this speech, I found articles from conservative news outlets (like The Sun) which condemned Tory for downplaying the risk that the virus poses, and for conflating safety precautions with xenophobia.

There is something to be said about the justification behind this xenophobic behaviour, and that is the role of fear. People are terrified of the prospect of something affecting us on the scale of the Coronavirus in China, and it makes sense why people see the threat as larger than it really is due to the constant media updates on new cases of the virus throughout the world, as well as death rates in China. It is important to remember that the plethora of news stories about the virus can make the situation seem more urgent than it really is, especially because fear is a great way to attract clicks, which further motivates the fear-mongering that, to varying extents, underlies much of the news coverage on the virus.

openWIDE//WORLD

It is very easy to fall victim to fear-mongering, especially in an age where so many things are uncertain and there is much to be fearful of that we can’t fully comprehend. While I personally haven’t felt too concerned about contracting the Coronavirus, a small part of me can’t help but worry about what would happen if I, or people I care about, did. Though, just to clarify, out of the four cases of the Coronavirus in Canada, only one person was admitted to the hospital and recovered in just a few days. If we look at the state of the world, and the sensationalist/click-baiting tendencies of mainstream media, it makes sense why people are so afraid, and this fear seemingly legitimizes racist and xenophobic attitudes and behaviour to those who partake in it. Some people are definitely just racist, but I think many are genuinely afraid and mismanaging their fear in a harmful, xenophobic way. Fear is not an excuse for racism and xenophobia, but it’s nevertheless a common motivator.

We need to collectively understand and teach others that the risk posed by Coronavirus is extremely low, and that those who contracted it and came back to Canada have been treated and recovered in a short amount of time. We need to collectively remind one another that the xenophobic, racist reactions to this tragic outbreak are unwarranted, wrong and incredibly harmful, arguably more so than the actual virus itself has been outside of China. We need to empathize with, and support our fellow students who are impacted by the virus to varying extents; by this, I mean we need to speak out against the xenophobic behaviour we witness, or at least stop liking, sharing and/or creating social media content that jokes about such a serious topic. Sure, wear a mask if you feel so inclined, and don’t treat those wearing masks as if they automatically have the virus, but don’t cover your mouth when you’re near a Chinese person or run away if you see them cough.

Finally, we need to do some serious self-reflection and consider why we’re so quick to demonize an entire loosely defined racial group, why we are so ready to switch into crisis mode, and why we continuously fall for fear mongering when we all know it exists. We need to ask ourselves why these stereotypes were automatically revived, why the virus became so quickly racialized when we are supposedly this multicultural, “woke” global society.

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C o m p a s s i o n i s O u t o f Fa s h i o n : S t i g m a s S u r ro u n d i n g Wo m e n ’s D re s s //Samantha Kroontje It all began a few weeks ago; I was having a way-too-late night coffee in the back of the Spoke when I overheard a stranger discussing the Gender and Fashion course she taught with a friend.

“The beautiful thing about fashion, and simultaneously the terrible thing about fashion,” she said, “is that it has a way of talking to the world without actually saying anything.”

I thought there was something so compelling in those words. Through the way you dress and self-present you can give people a host of ideas about your character, your morals, and your professionalism without having to say a single word. People use fashion as their voice, and it speaks powerfully. What’s more, a woman has the autonomy to be as multifaceted as she wants in her dress.

There was still something I couldn’t figure out though. Why is this “terrible” too? One day I decided to ask the stranger about it, and I’m glad I did.

We met for coffee. I got there before her and watched the woman stride in wearing a sequined top and her favorite pair of cheetah-print pants (yes, she has more than one pair).

Kelly Olson, the professor, role model, and ingenious fashion expert emanates positive energy and her nuanced ideas about gender, queer theory, feminism, and the like are stirringly inspirational. She associates herself with other feminists and these women are not just her friends but her role models too. Olson pays homage to her many students whose thought-provoking ideas encourage her to think critically and to be investigative in her views on the world. Needless to say, Olson’s ideals are wholly authentic.

“To answer your question, I see fashion as a two-sided paradigm; both good and bad,” Olson explains. Of course, fashion can be empowering and as such, she says she’s more confident when she’s feeling herself and dresses in a way that makes her feel good, no matter what that might look like.

“On the other hand, I think a lot of women feel overly scrutinized by restricting fashion discourses, especially in today’s age of selfies and social media.”

She’s probably right. Time and again, fashion choices are incorrectly associated with a person’s character. Our current social climate declares that someone may choose to dress like a model, but in doing so they must accept the associated codes that go along with it. Of course, these codes aren’t particularly favorable and are difficult to remove.

The rules of fashion discourses seem to be strict. They often insist on dissociating being beautiful and sexy from being smart; but why? Shouldn’t we encourage women of the 21st century to be more than one thing? After all, the way a woman chooses to represent herself is not a reflection of her person, opinions (political or otherwise), intellect, or any other feature of value.

If wearing a crop top or going braless makes someone feel good, they shouldn’t feel judged or discredited for it. Regardless of whether a woman’s appearance is feminine, sexual, simplistic, or anything else, it’s her choice and it has nothing to do with her character. Even so, Olson points out that it’s impossible to escape this type of judgement. Compassion is out of fashion and young women mold themselves to fit the narrow cultural norms of acceptance in the search for societal approval.

Regardless, Olson always expects to be given dignity and respect no matter how she dresses. Likewise, second year social science student Madeleine Lefaive, Olson’s fashion protege, holds similar expectations (as you wouldn’t think that it’s too much to ask) – though, she admits that she hasn’t always been regarded in this way. As a finalist in last year’s case competition, she made a conscious effort to put her most classy foot forward in her attire and describes her fit as formal yet flattering.

“I was walking towards the stage, just minutes away from doing my presentation, when I heard someone behind me say ‘I want to fuck that girl with the nice ass’” Lefaive recalls. “I was so mad and couldn’t decide whether it was worth it to respond or not. Like fuck you! I felt good in my skin and even though I shouldn’t care, it made me so self-conscious.”

It didn’t affect her performance, but she remembers becoming less confident in her skin as she began to wonder if the judges would discredit her in the same way. “Could my success be increased or decreased by my looks (and why should it be either?),” Lefaive says. “I would have to wear a garbage bag to hide my hips and butt… Is that what I’d have to do to be taken seriously?”

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openWIDE//WORLD

The unfortunate truth about image-based stigmas are this: fashion has always been guilty of carrying them. We all judge based on appearance as it’s something humans are wired to do. With optimism, however, Olson likes to think that she’s part of a society that is becoming more capable of characterizing women based on legitimate factors rather than physical attributes.

“While I don’t think we can ever fully get there, the problem is definitely improving. Take athleisure for example; with everyone wearing sweats and Nike, fashion trends between the sexes are more similar than they ever have been before. This must be happening because, as a society, we are moving closer towards gender parody – or at least that’s what I like to think.”

While these patterns are slowly lessening, fashion still seems to be taken as a reflection of a woman’s merit and status.

“A great example is the modern kerfuffle about the hijab and the burka” Olson says. “When someone sees a woman with her head covered, they tend to make automatic (and flawed) associations, such as she is oppressed, or uneducated, or downtrodden. But really, the hijab and other forms of modest dressing are a way for women to show respect to herself and piety towards God. It’s a religious form of dressing that Western society doesn’t quite understand.”

The same thing is true for Western women who dress in, say, miniskirts or any form of over sexualized fashion.

A false conception is often elicited by older generations whose take on it doesn’t reflect the empowerment that women like Olson and Lefaive get from their dress. Simply put, women who embrace sexy fashion and boldly inhabit their bodies may feel powerful when they’re wearing platform shoes and a tight bodycon dress (or maybe sweats are what makes them feel good, and that’s fine too). While onlookers may see it as self-objectifying, young women have a different narrative.

“In order to understand why this happens, you need some historical context first,” Olson tells me. She explains the evolution of feminism as occurring in three waves, the first of which emerged during the 1920s while women pursued the right to vote. Second wavers of the 70s and 80s fought for equal pay, equal work, and equal representation.

“In this time period lives the poster woman you’d encounter when you think of plain-old feminism,” Olson muses.

“She grows her hair out and wears drabby old clothes, refusing to be objectified.”

Today, we find ourselves in a third wave of feminism. Olson would account that ideals in this wave revolve around empowerment in your body and place an emphasis on autonomy. Modern third wavers embrace fashion; it’s part of who they are, how they signify their power and embody their personality.

“I think Gen Xers feel almost betrayed by the fashion choices of young women today,” Olson laughs. “After all, second wave women were the ones who set the stage, 50-some years ago, for such autonomy to emerge within fashion today.”

Given this, it’s no surprise that self-proclaimed feminists face such scrutiny today. Just recently, I read an article in the Independent that harshly criticized celebrities Emily Ratajkowski and Kim Kardashian West. These women both enjoy and monetize their sexuality while simultaneously proclaiming themselves as feminists. According to the writer though, you can’t do both. Charlotte Gill discredits both women’s feminism by arguing that instead of perusing longstanding and pure feminist ideals, they use it as a means to justify looking sexy.

While I didn’t expect that these were the women I would be defending here, I found myself wondering why their feminism should be graded as any worse than that of others? More so, why should it be graded at all?

To borrow from the accomplished author, Roxanne Gay, “we demand perfection from feminists because we are still fighting for so much, we want so much, we need so damn much. We go far beyond reasonable constructive criticism to dissecting any given woman’s feminism, tearing it apart until there is nothing left. We do not need to do that.”

Instead, we must become more inclusive by accepting other women’s beliefs. We must encourage industry leaders to advocate their feminism and proclaim our own. Second wave women, nor anyone else, hold an exclusive right to feminism because to say so would be to stagnate progress. In fact, the more opinions that are offered, even from women who like to express their sexuality, the more capacity society has to undergo change in the right direction.

As Olson says: “Feminism and fashion are not mutually exclusive categories; they can coexist together, and the combination often thrives.”

So, whether you’re a man or a woman, young or old, an activist seeking justice or a student still figuring it out, all persons can claim their feminism. Who knows what could come of it: Nuanced ideas, a fourth wave of feminism perhaps, change? All we have to do is show a little bravery.

People, even the ones you would least expect (like the stranger that sits beside you in the Spoke), have a lot to say.

All we have to do is listen.

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