OLTRE Volume 12: The Swimsuit Issue

THE SWIMSUIT ISSUE

WINTER 2026

ÓL•TRE

TRAVEL BEYOND

the swimsuit issue

In this issue, we pack warm-weather inspiration with health and wellness, a perfect combination to kick off 2026. Cheers to a year well-traveled.

volume 12

Emil Pabon (Linda wears a Marysia swimsuit).

Welcome to the newest volume of OLTRE, our exclusive quarterly magazine filled with inspiration and ideas for your next trip — and beyond.

THE ART OF SAILING

REIMAGINED

Each Voyage transforms your journey into art

RESERVE YOUR VOYAGE TO NEW HORIZONS MEDITERRANEAN AND CARIBBEAN

ARTISAN DU VOYAGE DEPUIS 1883

New Continental GTC Mulliner The ultimate convertible grand tourer, powered by an Ultra Performance Hybrid V8 hybrid powertrain.

Discover more BentleyMotors.com.

The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2025 Bentley Motors, Inc. Model shown: Continental GTC Mulliner

Australia’s ultimate luxury and wellness escapes.

DAINTREE RAINFOREST, QUEENSLAND

Contact your travel advisor for more information.

ULURU, NORTHERN TERRITORY

MORNINGTON PENINSULA, VICTORIA

Stay in a Luxury Lodge

Experience a Natural Spa

Longitude 131 offers a collection of 16 luxury pavilions overlooking Uluru. Dine in the desert under a glittering canopy of stars and take exclusive guided excursions to discover the incredible Indigenous experiences.

Find your sanctuary at Alba, a thermal springs and day spa destination just outside of Melbourne in the Mornington Peninsula. Indulge in the peaceful surrounds of the thermal pools or renew and recalibrate with an exquisite ritual or treatment in the spa.

Australia’s legendary laid-back attitude makes it the ultimate destination for true relaxation.

From white-sand beach towns to national parks boasting epic sunsets, the country offers a genuine ‘no worries’ escape. Need a deeper renewal? Indulge in an unforgettable luxury wellness journey.

Retreats across Australia offer world-class massages, thermal baths, and infinity pools set within some of the world’s most inspiring landscapes. In every corner of the country, extraordinary experiences and complete rejuvenation await.

CANBERRA, AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

KANGAROO ISLAND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Unwind Lakeside

Go Off the Grid

Take the plunge with a Floating Sauna experience on Canberra’s Lake Burley Griffin, perfect for relaxation and unwinding in nature. Floating Sauna - Australia’s premier wood-fired sauna, offers a one-of-a-kind wellness retreat designed to detox your body and clear your mind.

Disconnect from the world on Kangaroo Island.

Stay at the Southern Ocean Lodge, where sweeping ocean views and tailored island experiences are just a few of the elements that will make your stay so utterly divine.

LORD HOWE ISLAND, NEW SOUTH WALES

DAINTREE RAINFOREST, QUEENSLAND

Find a Bit of Romance

Connect with Nature

The lush natural paradise of Lord Howe Island isn’t far from Sydney, but once here, you will feel worlds away. With only 400 tourists permitted here at any one time, you can soak up the serenity making for the ultimate romantic escape.

Silky Oaks Lodge is set in 80 acres of rainforest bordering the Daintree National Park. Stay in luxury treehouses and be serenaded by tropical birdlife and the sounds of the rainforest inviting guests to immerse themselves in nature.

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CONTENTS THE SWIMSUIT ISSUE

AT A GLANCE

SOUND/BAR

20

Winter 2026

THE SECRET LIFE OF WATER

London, England

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Sir Richard Branson revisits the glory days of Virgin Records for OLTRE’s Volume 12 playlist.

BEAUTY

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48

42

Rehoboth, Massachusetts Everyone in the pool! An artist turns swimsuit memories into mesmerizing canvases.

Maui, Hawaii 8

Hawaii’s hottest skincare brand is handcrafted on the island by a former pro surfer.

Fiuggi, Italy

The healing power of water in this Italian hillside hamlet has attracted wellness seekers since at least the Renaissance. But thanks to Palazzo Fiuggi, the best time in history to go is now.

CULINARY TRAVEL

78

QUEEN OF THE AMAZON

56

OLTRE VOLUME 12

Nauta, Peru

Swim with piranhas and hike with sloths. Abercrombie & Kent has ventured into the Amazon with a fabulous new riverboat.

Mediterranean Sea

Dining on board Crystal cruises has always been great. But what about those two new restaurants, Osteria d’Ovidio and Beefbar? We stowed away on Crystal Symphony to find out.

SAIL UNIQUE Designed to feel like your own private yacht

D I S C OV E R T H E O C E A N STAT E O F M I N D. Explora Journeys invites guests to sail in an inclusive, ultra-elegant home-away-from-home designed by super-yacht specialists, as they enjoy unforgettable culinary experiences and indulge in ocean-inspired wellness on a journey to iconic and lesser-travelled destinations in effortless European style.

F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S , C O N TACT A T RAV E L P R O F E S S I O N A L TO DAY.

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A RETURN TO THE ATHENS RIVIERA OLTRE VOLUME 12

70 Best Seaside Resorts: The islands can wait, because the Riviera is back.

72 Swimsuit Shopping: How to dress like the locals.

73 Nearby City Hotels: For Acropolis views with a day trip to the beach.

75 Helicopter Charters: When there’s no time to waste.

76 Yacht Charters: Might as well, since you’re in Greece.

77 Athens Cruising Guide: The top ships coming to Piraeus Cruise Port this year.

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Emil Pabon (Mercedes wears a HAÁLS swimsuit, a Greek Archaic Kori kimono and LiLALO earrings).

CONTENTS THE SWIMSUIT ISSUE

THE OLTRE GUIDE

Suites that tell a story

NEW YORK

BRUSSELS

LONDON

BUCHAREST

SUITES AND PENTHOUSES BY CORINTHIA FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL ADVISOR

CONTENTS THE SWIMSUIT ISSUE

40

SCOUTED

NEWS & BUZZ

24

CRUISE NEWS

Wales, Monte Carlo, Big Sur...

Byron Bay, Australia St. Agni is redefining Aussie style, from swimsuits and cover-ups to dressing for a night on the town.

Intel for the jet set: hotel updates, wild swimming, skinny-dipping, a new museum and more.

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THE LEGEND

88

Worldwide

Get ready. This will be a big year for big-deal cruise debuts, from ocean yachts to riverboats.

WHERE TO SPA NEXT

30

12

Perthshire, Scotland

Built in the Roaring Twenties as a gentlemen’s golf getaway, Gleneagles has become not just a sporting club for the ages, but also a celebratory resort for wellness and dining, too.

OBSESSION

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The new frontier in wellness retreats goes far beyond mind-body balance to include highintensity sports and aesthetic dermatology.

OLTRE VOLUME 12

96

Wherever The Sun Shines Skip the airport sunglasses shop and try on these new sunnies instead.

Italy, France, Mexico and beyond

THE OLTRE Q&A

Gothenburg, Sweden Annelie Pompe lives on a boat and holds the free-diving world record.

She gets the last word.

PERSPECTIVE

14

IMPRINT

16

WHAT’S ON

22

The finer things in life? They’re not hard to find.

In Santa Monica, you can experience a getaway that’s as down to earth as it is upscale. Plan the ultimate vacation in Santa Monica to enjoy luxurious hotels and spas, creative cuisine, unbeatable shopping, famous attractions and vibrant art, and experience the magic in 2026 as history and culture converge for the Route 66 Centennial celebration.

THE MOMENT

STAY IN

CONTENTS NOTED PERSPECTIVE ARTICLES

In

the Swim

14

Creating a print publication always feels like stepping into a time warp, since we work weeks in advance to bring each issue to life. As I write this, we’re just heading into the 2025 holiday season, but a new year will be underway when it arrives in your mailbox.

Endings and beginnings call for reflection, whether it’s gratitude for all that we accomplished over the last 12 months or optimism for everything that we hope to achieve in the next 12. As I page through this issue, I can’t help but think of the little joys and inspirations that make OLTRE so special. With that, here are a few of my favorite things:

1. Our tiny team. Editorial director Brad A. Johnson and art director Devin Duckworth are the award-winning creatives who dream up, assign, write, edit, produce and design every volume, while publisher Laura Sport keeps us all on track, schedule- and production-wise. I say it each quarter, but I think this is our best issue ever (until the next one). The Swimsuit Issue cleverly packages warmweather inspiration with health and wellness, a perfect combination to kick off a new year. (Fun fact: According to the Global Wellness Summit, the wellness economy is now a $6.8 trillion industry worldwide.)

2. Our advisor expertise. We feature tips from our advisors in every issue, and the breadth of their knowledge never ceases to amaze me — whether it’s of a brand-new ship, a remote destination or an insider travel hack. They know their stuff, which makes your travels even better.

3. Our travel partners. Oh, the places you can go. Our impressive portfolio of vetted travel companies touches every continent and covers it all, from boutique hotels and legendary resorts to luxury cruises, adventure outfitters and beyond.

4. Holding this magazine in my hands. In a world

Senior Vice President, Content

Elaine Srnka

dominated by digital, it’s immensely rewarding to produce something tangible and tactile. The feel of the paper, the weight of these pages, the intentional act of turning them — a magazine invites you to slow down, settle in and treat yourself.

5. You, dear readers. When I hear about the types of trips our advisors plan for their clients, I’m blown away. Your curiosity, sense of adventure and passion for meaningful travel inspire everything we do — and remind me of all the enriching rewards of a well-traveled life.

OLTRE OLTREVOLUME VOLUME12 6

The World’s Most Awarded Safari Company.

A safari is unlike any other experience and Micato Safaris is unlike any other company: For every safari sold, we send a child to school.

Contact your travel advisor for details.

TEN-TIME #1 WINNER:

World’s Best Safari Outfitter, Travel+Leisure.

Micato is the only tour company in the Travel+Leisure Hall of Fame

Senior Vice President, Content Elaine Srnka

Editorial Director Brad A. Johnson

Vice President, Publishing Laura Sport

Art Director Devin Duckworth Copy Editor Jennifer Weston

International Correspondents Nicholas Gill (Latin America), Carolyn O'Neil (Caribbean), Kathryn Romeyn (Bali), Chris Schalkx (Bangkok), Laura Schooling (London), Marina Spironetti (Milan) Contributors Eirini Anastasiadi, Ellie Balatsoura, Steven Biller, Tanvi Chheda, Jenny B. Davis, Jane Foster, Marilena Karagianni, Don Nichols, Gabriella Onessimo, Emil Pabon, Susan Portnoy, Konstantinos Sakkas, Michelle Tchea, Simon Urwin

Advertising & Marketing Partner Relations Dennis Grunden Brian Hegarty Stephen McGillivray Vanessa McGovern Haisley Smith Pam Young Marketing Operations Alexandra Rivera Alexandra Belorab Devon Domanski Melissa Ghazi Jessica Gularte Laura Marchesano Mariana Ramos

Account Management Marshall Davenport Melissa Dobmeier Jodie Epperson Giselle Garvey Sam Holloway Catherine Johns Birgit Kohlstedt-Orozco Ronald Laing Pam Massey Teresita Meadows Michael Payan Loyde Pires Elizabeth Reinhardt Sofia Rivoir Becky Serdar Jeanne Watters Danielle Whitmore

Database Marketing Jocelyn Acosta Elizabeth Broehl Felipe Castro Adam Kemerer James Nathan Daniel Tennant Katarzyna Turska Advertising Consultants Lisa Calderone-Spierings Madelyn Roberts

Direct advertising inquiries to advertising@oltremag.com

Internova Travel Group Chief Executive Officer J.D. O'Hara Chief Financial Officer Robert Klug Chief Information Officer Jeremy Van Kuyk

Executive Vice President, Partner Relations Albert M. Herrera

President, Global Travel Collection Angie Licea

Executive Vice President, Partner Relations Peter Vlitas

President, Nexion Travel Group Jackie Friedman

Senior Vice President, Public Relations Elizabeth Gaerlan

President, Travel Leaders Group Lindsay Pearlman

Executive Vice President, Strategy Henry Gilroy

Internova SELECT and CURATED Hotel & Resort Rate Key $ = Less than $500 $$ = $500 – $1,000 $$$ = $1,000 – $1,500 $$$$ = More than $1,500

Aman New York

Elegance is an experience.

Ask your travel advisor about special Internova benefits.

Categories reflect average mid-season rate for standard room.

Your travel advisor can secure complimentary Internova SELECT or CURATED perks such as hotel credits, breakfast for two, early check-in/late checkout (based on availability) and other extras.

ON THE FRONT COVER: Shot on location at One&Only Aesthesis in Glyfada, Greece.

Photography by Emil Pabon featuring Linda wearing a Marysia swimsuit and a Savapile hat.

ON THE BACK COVER: Shot on location aboard Crystal Symphony in the Mediterranean.

Photography by Brad A. Johnson.

OLTRE is published quarterly by Internova Travel Group, one of the largest travel-services companies in the world. Internova brands represent more than 100,000 travel advisors in more than 6,000 company-owned and -affiliated locations throughout the United States, Mexico, Canada and the United Kingdom, with a presence in more than 80 countries. Publisher assumes no responsibility for representations or changes to travel information and pricing described herein, which are subject to change and availability, and restrictions may apply. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written consent of Publisher. Direct editorial and subscription inquiries to editors@oltremag.com and advertising requests to advertising@oltremag. com. Internova Travel Group is headquartered at 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019; Internova. com. Copyright © 2026 Internova Travel Group.

YOUR WORLD INCLUDED TM All Specialty Dining

Shipboard Gratuities Unlimited WiFi plus choice of: Complimentary Wine & Beer or Shore Excursion Credit

The OCEANIA CRUISES® Difference Follow your wanderlust and explore more than 600 destinations around the globe aboard the small, designer-inspired ships of Oceania Cruises. With food at the heart of everything we do, you’ll enjoy The Finest Cuisine at Sea® and memorable culinary experiences at every turn. Curated for seasoned travelers, our diverse collection of touring options features unique adventures that invite you to discover the ultimate in destination experiences. Throughout it all, we know that where you feel welcome, you feel at home. Wherever you choose to sail, you’re much more than our guest – you’re like family.

THE FINEST CUISINE AT SEA® AWARD-WINNING ITINERARIES SMALL SHIP LUXURY™

RADAR FIRST IMPRESSIONS

ADULT SWIM 18

OLTRE VOLUME 12

WRITING: STEVEN BILLER

ARTIST MICHELE POIRIER MOZZONE PARLAYS SWIMSUIT MOMENTS INTO STUNNING — AND RESONATING — ABSTRACTIONS. Rehoboth, Massachusetts

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Above: “Calypso" Left: “Blue Moon" Oil on canvas

One sun-kissed afternoon by the pool, a fleeting reflection on the water captured artist Michele Poirier Mozzone in a nostalgic moment that instigated Fractured Light, her ongoing series of paintings that blend the human form with vibrant abstraction. She started with pastels, then turned to large oils on canvas, liberating her gestural mark-making and fluid depictions of bubbles, distortions and “ribbons” of light. Her mesmerizing canvases evoke the sensations of the body suspended in water and time.

People respond to water, Poirier Mozzone says, because everyone has memories of or associations with summers or swimming. Her paintings invite us to reflect upon and honor water as an element of life, cleansing, change and renewal. poirier-mozzone.com

CONTENTS RADAR PLAYLIST ARTICLES

SOUND BAR

AT HIDDEN GROOVES IN SHOREDITCH, SIR RICHARD BRANSON’S VINYL COLLECTION CHANNELS THE GLORY DAYS OF VIRGIN RECORDS. London, England

01. “Tubular Bells - Pt. 1” by Mike Oldfield 02. “(I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction” by The Rolling Stones 03. “Holidays in the Sun” by Sex Pistols 04. “Karma Chameleon” by Culture Club 05. “Together Again” by Janet Jackson 06. “Legalize It” by Peter Tosh 07. “Alive and Kicking” by Simple Minds 08. “Don’t You Want Me” by The Human League 09. “I Can’t Dance” by Genesis 10. “Solsbury Hill” by Peter Gabriel 11. “Red Red Wine” by UB40 12. “In the Air Tonight” by Phil Collins 13. “Simple Things” by Waves Rush In

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14. “Wannabe” by Spice Girls 15. “Here Comes The Sun” by The Beatles 16. “Lust For Life” by Iggy Pop 17. “Changes” by David Bowie 18. “Bohemian Rhapsody” by Queen 19. “Like A Virgin” by Madonna 20. “Imagine” by John Lennon

Virgin Hotels London-Shoreditch

OLTRE OLTREVOLUME VOLUME12 6

Last April, the London outpost of Virgin Hotels debuted something not found in any other outpost: Hidden Grooves, a 38-seat listening lounge designed by Richard Branson himself. Outfitted with voluptuous postmodern furniture and high-fidelity floor speakers, it stirs memories of a 1970s-era music mogul’s living room. Among the library of more than 5,000 albums (curated by the brand’s entertainment director, Neil Aline), there’s a special crate of Branson’s personal favorites — his source for this playlist — that harkens back to the golden age of vinyl and the rise of Virgin Records.

WRITING: BRAD A. JOHNSON

Scan to open our playlist in Spotify.

Professional Images (UK) Ltd

Richard Branson at Hidden Grooves

The 120-room hotel includes the 1,025-square-foot Sir Richards Penthouse Flat, which celebrates ’70s-era rockstar decadence. Your travel advisor can secure Internova CUR ATED perks, including a $100 hotel credit and daily breakfast for two. $$

Contact your travel advisor to plan your next vacation.

RADAR CALENDAR CONTENTS ARTICLES

WHAT’S ON

ART, CULTURE, MUSIC, SPORTS… ADD THESE MUST-ATTEND EVENTS TO YOUR SOCIAL CALENDAR THIS SEASON.

NOW – FEBRUARY 7 STRATFORD-UPON-AVON, ENGLAND

NOW – JULY 26 LONDON, ENGLAND

Roald Dahl’s The BFG at Royal Shakespeare Theatre

JANUARY 19 – MAY 17 HOUSTON, TEXAS

“Wes Anderson: The Archives” at the Design Museum

“Frida: The Making of an Icon” at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston 22 22

FEBRUARY 6 – 22 MILAN AND CORTINA, ITALY

Tapati Rapa Nui Festival

FEBRUARY 5 – 7 DOHA, QATAR

Olympic Winter Games

FEBRUARY 8 SANTA CLARA, CALIFORNIA

The inaugural Art Basel Qatar at M7

FEBRUARY 26 – MARCH 1 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA

Super Bowl LX at Levi’s Stadium

MARCH 12 – 18 AUSTIN, TEXAS OLTRE OLTREVOLUME VOLUME12 6

Frieze Los Angeles art fair SXSW Conferences and Festivals

Tom Wells (BFG), Thierry Stefanopoulos (Wes Anderson), technotre via iStock (Olympics), Cindy Ord (Art Basel Qatar), Vic Aquino (Levi’s Stadium), Casey Kelbaugh (Frieze Los Angeles), Andy Wenstrand (SXSW)

JANUARY 30 – FEBRUARY 15 EASTER ISLAND, CHILE

Where productivity meets premium Work, unwind and arrive inspired on board American’s new Boeing 787-9, featuring Flagship Suite® seats and elevated comfort designed to transform every journey at 35,000 feet.

Scan to discover more American Airlines and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. ©2025 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

RADAR HOT SHOTS

News & Buzz

PRIORITY INTEL FOR THE JET SET: ROOM UPGRADES, ART ON THE MOVE, SKINNY-DIPPING AND MORE. 24

United Kingdom – Swimsuits aren’t usually top-of-mind when packing for a luxury train trip. But the rules have changed.

When Belmond’s Britannic Explorer debuted a few months back with overnight service between London and Wales (that, in itself, a first), the train introduced a new twist for rail journeys: wild swimming. Depending on the route and the season (which runs March through October), guests are treated to a dip in nature in either Derwentwater Lake at The Lingholm Estate in England’s Lake District or else at the Welsh Lavender Farm’s wild swimming pond in Wales. Pack accordingly.

OLTRE VOLUME 12

Off the Rails: (Top) The Observation Car on Britannic Explorer, a Belmond Train, and (above) the Lake District National Park.

REPORTING: TANVI CHHEDA, BRAD A. JOHNSON AND DON NICHOLS

Salva López (Britannic Explorer), Jonny Gios (Lake District)

WILD SWIMMING IN THE LAKE DISTRICT

Making every stay unique

T H E F ORTE FAM ILY AT LU NCH AT H OT EL D E RU SSIE IN ROM E

HOTEL AMIGO BRUSSELS · THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH · HOTEL SAVOY FLORENCE · BROWN’S HOTEL LONDON ROCCO FORTE HOUSE MILAN · THE CARLTON MILAN · THE CHARLES HOTEL MUNICH · MASSERIA TORRE MAIZZA PUGLIA HOTEL DE LA VILLE ROME · HOTEL DE RUSSIE ROME · ROCCO FORTE HOUSE ROME · VILLA IGIEA PALERMO ROCCO FORTE PRIVATE VILLAS SICILY · VERDURA RESORT SICILY · HOTEL ASTORIA ST PETERSBURG FUTURE OPENINGS: PALAZZO SIRIGNANO NAPLES · PALAZZO CASTELLUCCIO NOTO · COSTA SMERALDA SARDINIA CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE INFORMATION

CONTENTS RADAR HOTARTICLES SHOTS

CLOTHING (STILL) OPTIONAL

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Big Sur, California – Long cherished for its prime coastal perch amid soaring redwoods alongside California’s breathtaking Highway 1, Alila Ventana Big Sur just completed a major, resort-wide refresh coinciding with the property’s 50th anniversary. All rooms and suites have been reimagined with oak four-poster beds, handmade tile fireplaces and gorgeous artwork by local artists in the form of kinetic sculptures and wall hangings using metal and driftwood. The outdoor showers and soaking tubs remain intact, as do the perennially popular (and clothing optional) Japanese-style baths adjacent to the Mountain Pool (swimsuits, please). The restaurant also got a reboot with a new Mediterranean-inflected menu. $$$$

Alila Ventana Big Sur

Miami, Florida – The perks of flying in the front of a British Airways plane just got even better in Miami and Dubai, where the airline unveiled two swanky new lounges in October. MIA’s 13,000-square-foot, sun-soaked art-deco club — BA’s largest outside of London — accommodates 220 guests and includes not only a dramatic, Mayfair-inspired cocktail bar and Floridafarms-centric buffet, but also a separate full-service area called Concorde Dining. A much smaller lounge in Dubai offers most of the same amenities, including the full-service Concorde concept, while channeling a glitzier UAE vibe with fretwork patterning, sweeping arches and mirrored walls.

OLTRE OLTREVOLUME VOLUME12 6

British Airways lounge at Miami International

Daniel Kelleghan (Alila Ventana Big Sur)

AIRPORT-LOUNGE-UPGRADE ALERT

Coco Beach Club ® — Bahamas

ELEVATE YOUR BEACH DAY

Level up your boldest vacation at the award-winning Perfect Day at CocoCay — and go all-out at the exclusive Coco Beach Club ®. Drift between poolside and seaside in an infinity pool overlooking the ocean. Savor gourmet flavors from fried lobster to filet mignon from the Caribbean chic restaurant. For the ultimate beach day upgrade, kick back and cue the views of endless blue from Overwater Cabanas with a hammock, your very own slide, and personalized attendant service. And when the day is done, the adventure’s just begun back onboard the world’s most incredible ships. It’s time you discovered what award-winning is all about. It’s Big Time — only on Royal Caribbean ®.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TO LEARN MORE.

BEST CRUISE LINE 22 YEARS RUNNING OVER ALL AND IN THE CARIBBEAN Travel Weekly Readers’ Choice Awards

*Perfect Day and CocoCay are registered trademarks of Royal Caribbean. All ship features, experiences and itineraries are subject to change without notice. ©2025 Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd. Ship’s Registry: The Bahamas. 25023301 • 11/20/2025

CONTENTS RADAR HOTARTICLES SHOTS

A PRINCELY REMODEL IN THE PRINCIPALITY Monte Carlo, Monaco – The Hotel Metropole has quietly unveiled the first phase of a multiyear revamp of its rooms.

Parisian starchitect Jacques Garcia has returned to update his original designs, which he introduced here in 2004. Fans of the hotel’s posh, tongue-in-cheek palace-intrigue decor needn’t worry about Garcia’s new direction. He is merely softening his archetypal ideas with mellow yellows and pastel blues and elaborately embroidered silks — combined with some much-needed tech to bring everything up to date. Perhaps most notably, he’s created a handful of stunning new junior suites with harlequin-inspired bathroom motifs anchored by mirrored tubs. The site-wide redux also includes a brand-new Guerlain Spa. And it’s important to note that some things are not changing: The beloved atrium lobby and bar, along with chef Christophe Cussac’s Michelin-starred Les Ambassadeurs, will stay just as they are — as will the (untouchable) Karl Lagerfeld-designed swimming pool. $$$$

Hotel Metropole

MODERN ART ON THE MOVE Paris, France – The Fondation Cartier pour l’art Contemporain has a shiny, much larger new home. In October, the contemporary art temple unveiled new digs in an 1855 building opposite the Louvre. Pritzker-prize winner Jean Nouvel retrofitted the interior, which wows with vast bay windows and 70,000 square feet of reconfigurable exhibition space. The inaugural show features nearly 600 works from the foundation’s collection, dating back to the museum’s inception in 1984. We strongly recommend making reservations in advance. fondationcartier.com OLTRE OLTREVOLUME VOLUME12 6

Fondation Cartier pour l’art Contemporain

Brad A. Johnson, Sébastien Parmentelot (Metropole), Martin Argyroglo (Cartier)

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L EG E N DA R Y B U T I N N OVAT I V E, S U M P T U O U S B U T M O D E R N, R EG E N T H O T E L S C O N T I N U E T O R E I M AG I N E L U X U R Y H O S P I TA L I T Y. E X PL O R E E AC H H O T E L A N D H O W I H G O N E R E WA R D S C A N E L E VAT E A N Y T R AV E L E X PE R I E N C E Y O U C A N I M AG I N E.

Regent Hotels & Resorts presents

Uncover

P OS SIB ILITIE S With

BALI CANGGU

New

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H O N G KO N G

Escapes

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CONTENTS RADAR WELLNESS ARTICLES

Where to Spa Next

THE NEW FRONTIER IN HOTEL SPAS GOES FAR BEYOND MIND-BODY BALANCE TO INCLUDE HIGH-INTENSITY SPORTS AND AESTHETIC DERMATOLOGY.

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DAK LAK PROVINCE, VIETNAM – The total-well-being philosophy

OLTRE OLTREVOLUME VOLUME12 5

Hoa Sen Spa at Zannier Bãi San Hô

REPORTING: BRAD A. JOHNSON, CAROLYN O’NEIL, KATHRYN ROMEYN, CHRIS SCHALKX, LAURA SCHOOLING, MARINA SPIRONETTI AND MICHELLE TCHEA

Frederik Wissink

at the chicly rugged Zannier Bãi San Hô turns the concept of a “spa day” into a complete sunrise-to-slumber extravaganza. Hoa Sen Spa (whose name means “lotus flower”) is the starting point for a slew of one-, three- and five-day journeys that begin with a personalized bioresonance-therapy assessment based on electromagnetic frequency energy patterns. A full-day program starts with a body scan that informs a robust lineup of wellness activities to follow, including a sunrise meditation beside the rolling surf, a bespoke sound healing, a rejuvenating massage and, perhaps, an herbal bath before a quiet, gentle bedtime ritual for better sleep.

CONTENTS ARTICLES

VALLE DE GUADALUPE, MEXICO – Northern Baja’s Guadalupe

Valley, two hours south of the border, is best known for wine and culinary excursions, not luxury wellness retreats — or, at least it was. Banyan Tree Veya Valle de Guadalupe, which opened its 30 villas (all blond woods and terra-cotta plaster, jutting out from shrub-covered hills) nearly two years ago, has finally debuted its long-promised spa. Wellness sits at the core of Banyan Tree’s new Veya brand, and this sprawling complex deals in temazcal rituals, somatic breath work sessions and treatments with native herbs, plus a robust fitness program. But don’t worry: The region’s most luxurious resort won’t be all about detoxing. Wine from the on-site grenache vineyard is still very much a part of the escape.

Banyan Tree Veya Valle de Guadalupe

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Asaya Spa at The Chancery Rosewood

OLTRE VOLUME 5

Ben Anders (Rosewood)

LONDON, ENGLAND – The Chancery Rosewood has opened in

the former U.S. embassy building at Grosvenor Square in Mayfair.

This expansive well-being and longevity complex includes not just Rosewood’s signature Asaya Spa — for bespoke facials and body treatments — but also an elite, discreet dermatology clinic by Dr. Wassim Taktouk, one of London’s most in-demand aesthetic physicians. In addition to the clinic's med-spa injectables, firming agents, microneedling services, CO2 skin resurfacing, IV therapies and more, a comprehensive fitness center rounds out the wellness haven with the latest Technogym Reform Pilates machines and an 80-foot indoor pool. Exfoliate, illuminate, rejuvenate, repeat.

CONTENTS RADAR WELLNESS ARTICLES

BALI, INDONESIA – Ghanta temple bells, chain-mail curtains

Sacred River Spa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

made of ancient coins, Indonesian moss agate etched with sacred geometry, and a gong are just some of the tools and sounds of the Restu Bumi ritual at the completely reimagined Sacred River Spa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan. The two-hour, wholebody healing session is multisensory to the max, yet far from the only unforgettable sensation on the menu, which includes buccallift facials, chakra ceremonies and a four-handed massage paired with sound healing and craniosacral techniques. Fresh feel-good vibes extend to more active pursuits, too, at the riverside resort’s new fitness hub. A panoramic-jungle-view workout space is now complemented by a Pilates studio, a private gym equipped with myofascial release tools and a dedicated recovery area with an ice bath and an infrared zero-gravity lounger.

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ROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTIN, FRANCE – Founded in London

last year, Surrenne, The Maybourne Group’s in-house wellness and longevity club, has expanded to the brand's 65-suite, cliff-top The Maybourne Riviera. It’s a multilevel spa and fitness center whose oh-so-chic free-weights room, Lagree Method studio and outdoor yoga terrace offer breathtaking views of the Côte d’Azur and Monte Carlo below. Rather than hiding from the region’s ever-present sunlight, the spa’s Michelle Wu-designed lounge harnesses it. The result: a space that’s less about relaxing and more about recharging — like being plugged into an infinite power source. It’s the perfect warm-up for a circuit of electrical-muscle-stimulation sessions and hot-cold contrast plunges. The spa’s dimly lit treatment rooms, on the other hand, manifest the very essence of zen: think lymphaticsculpting rituals, LED-light treatments, leg-compression therapy, Shirodhara and even Thai bodywork. Every massage is customized.

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Surrenne at The Maybourne Riviera

CONTENTS RADAR WELLNESS ARTICLES

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PORTOFINO, ITALY – Italy’s first permanent Dior Spa opened

recently on the sprawling estate of Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, which simultaneously emerged from a fabulous makeover by Martin Brudnizki. Perched above the green-blue waters of Portofino Bay and set within its own private gardens (dubbed Le Jardin des Rêves Dior), the spa compound epitomizes the worry-free lifestyle of the late Christian Dior’s beloved summer residences, blending Ligurian beauty with the Maison’s inimitable grace. Shrouded in Toile de Jouy drapery, the spa’s indoor and outdoor treatment rooms offer a wide range of programs, including an energy-balancing massage that involves semiprecious stones and a hydra-dermabrasion facial that incorporates LED light and a signature floral peel.

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Dior Spa Splendido

Contact Your Travel Advisor

Sandals® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate of Unique Travel Corp., the worldwide representative of Sandals Resorts. 544/1125

MADE OF CARIBBEAN

JAMAICA | ANTIGUA | SAINT LUCIA | THE BAHAMAS | GRENADA | BARBADOS | CURAÇAO | SAINT VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

We’re fluent in Caribbean.

Hidden Piton trails in Saint Lucia? Follow us.

A villa with the perfect sunset view? All yours.

But the real magic? It lives in the people.

We know the Caribbean best because it’s where we’re from — let us share it with you.

RADAR WELLNESS

LEVERNOIS, FRANCE – Located on the banks of the Bouzaise

river in Burgundy wine country, Hostellerie de Levernois has, for decades, lured well-heeled Parisians for weekend escapes. And while local wines and a Michelin-starred restaurant have long been the famous draws, this 18th-century inn’s new owner (a Dijon local) has repositioned this Relais & Châteaux property to appeal not only to gourmands, but to wellness seekers, too. On its sprawling, 17-acre park with century-old trees, the hotel recently saw the addition of new pavilion rooms and family-style villas (bringing the total room count to 39), plus an outdoor lap pool and — the pièce de résistance — a Sisley Spa designed by French architect Christophe Tollemer. New wellness facilities include a hammam, sauna rooms, an outdoor hot tub, an indoor pool and a cold-plunge tank designed as a steel wine vat. A new high-tech fitness center will come online this year.

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Maison Kalos, Sisley (Levernois), Robert Rieger (Amanyara)

Sisley Spa at Hostellerie de Levernois

PROVIDENCIALES, TURKS AND CAICOS – At Amanyara,

OLTRE VOLUME 12

there’s no music vibing at the beach — only the restorative sounds of waves and birdsong. Set within an 18,000-acre nature reserve, the entire resort is, intentionally, an extension of the spa and fitness center at its core. The 56-villa resort has undergone extensive renovations in the last few years, a drawn-out refresh that extends to its wellness programs. If you visited in November, you might have practiced yoga with the legendary Jonah Kest or played tennis with Novak Djokovic. And if you’re going in December, you can attempt to play pickleball with court master Wes Burrows — obviously, not for the weak-kneed among us, but you get the idea. Amanyara’s uniquely tailored mindfulness and movement classes go beyond fitness to embrace a more holistic approach focused on overall wellness. The expert-led programs include racket sports, Pilates and yoga. And, yes, one can still get a blissful massage.

Amanyara

Tetiaroa, Marlon’s private sanctuary, with Polynesian soul

RADAR CRUISE NEWS

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On Your Marks!

FOUR SEASONS, ORIENT EXPRESS AND MORE: LET THE CRUISE-SHIP LAUNCHES OF 2026 BEGIN. Two hospitality brands are set to reshape cruising in the coming months. First, in March, Four Seasons Yachts will launch Four Seasons I in the Mediterranean (from $17,300 per suite). The newcomer will encompass just 95 suites, but the real showstopper will be its glassenclosed Funnel Suite, a 9,975-square-foot, four-story, three-bedroom suite with 280-degree forward views, a full kitchen, a private gym and an outdoor pool. Among the ship's 11 restaurants and bars will be a flagship dining room with a rotating roster of chefs-in-residence visiting from the Michelin-starred restaurants of Four Seasons hotels located all around the world. After an inaugural season in the Mediterranean, it’ll reposition to the Caribbean for winter.

Then, in June, Orient Express debuts its first-ever superyacht in the Mediterranean and Adriatic. At 722 feet long, the three-masted Corinthian will set a new record as the world’s largest sailing yacht. A joint undertaking between Accor and shipbuilder Chantiers de l’Atlantique, the ship will have a mere 54 suites (from $19,000 per suite) — some with balconies and others with large bay windows. It’ll have five restaurants and eight bars, including a marquee dining room by star chef Yannick Alléno.

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Sailors’ Choice: (Clockwise from top left) Renderings of the Orient Express’ Corinthian, the floating marina deck of Four Seasons I and a suite on &BEYOND’s Amazon Explorer.

Midsize newcomers, meanwhile, include the 463-suite EXPLORA III , debuting in July ( from $5,500 ) — with 150 of those suites in the higher-tier categories. After two sailings in the Mediterranean, it'll reposition to Northern Europe, Iceland and Greenland. And in December, Regent Seven Seas welcomes its first Prestige-class ship, the 822-passenger Seven Seas Prestige ( from $6,499 ), whose nearly 9,000-squarefoot Skyview Regent Suite will become the largest allinclusive apartment at sea. After crossing the Atlantic from Barcelona to Miami, Prestige will sail to Los Angeles via Panama.

Finally, on the riverfronts, in September, &BEYOND will unveil its 15-suite Amazon Explorer (from $5,190) in Peru. And by year’s end, A&K Sanctuary will float its most spacious Egyptian vessel yet, the 32-suite Nile Seray (rates still undetermined).

WRITING: DON NICHOLS

The art of play, perfected in California

RADAR SCOUTED

Sunny & Sheer

INSPIRED BY A LAID-BACK AUSSIE SPIRIT, ST. AGNI GOES BEYOND ITS COASTAL SURROUNDINGS WITH A SOPHISTICATED, WORLDLY LENS. Byron Bay, Australia

Scorching temps aren’t the only heat radiating from Down Under this winter. Australia’s fashion scene has become the latest darling of the industry — with momentum that just keeps building, thanks in no small part to St. Agni.

Born and bred in Byron Bay, this locals’ favorite womens wear designer now operates chic boutiques from Sydney to suburban Melbourne. The company has steadily redefined the contemporary Australian wardrobe with a singular mix of sleek separates for all seasons. Breezy cottons, elevated leathers and essential accessories come together for a minimalist, capsule-inspired ethos in the Resort 2026 collection. Here’s how to channel an Aussie kind of winter — at the beach or on the town.

WRITING: GABRIELLA ONESSIMO

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FULL TRANSPARENCY “Resort ’26 explores the tension between strength and softness,” says St. Agni founder and creative director Lara Fells, who suggests covering a swimsuit with a sheer overlay “to exude just the right amount of boldness."

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EASY BREEZY The Aussie brand telegraphs a refined femininity with flowing silhouettes, ethereal textures and balletic touches, finding balance in loose tailoring and fur accents for a distinctly elevated edge.

The water is calling.

Answer with Princess . ®

The Caribbean captivates with waters that shimmer from deep indigo to vibrant sapphire, through emerald shallows and into translucent aquamarine. These shimmering hues invite endless adventures: snorkeling among colorful tropical fish, diving into coral reefs or gliding over waves by kayak or paddleboard.

A Princess® Caribbean cruise elevates paradise aboard the newest Love Boats, Sun Princess® and Star Princess®, designed for seamless ocean connection. Enjoy dining, shopping and entertainment with panoramic ocean views in the Piazza. Explore a rich variety of restaurants,

from relaxed bites to elegant fine dining. All of the suites are part of the exclusive Sanctuary Collection℠ offering premium amenities for ultimate relaxation.

With Princess, the Caribbean is more than just a place you visit, it’s a feeling you live. Every sunrise over the water, every starlit evening on deck, every shade of blue beneath your ship weave together to create memories that linger long after the journey ends. Experience the heart of the Caribbean, elevated by the comfort, style and spirit of Princess.

Contact a travel professional for additional information. ©2025, Princess Cruise Lines,Ltd. Princess®, MedallionClass®, and the Princess logo are trademarks of Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Ships registered to Bermuda.

RADAR BEAUTY

SURF &

PROTECT A FORMER PRO SURFER CAPTURES HEARTS AND FACES WITH ISLANDINSPIRED SKINCARE.

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Oshan Essentials isn’t simply skincare from Hawaii. It’s skincare of Hawaii — inspired by the sunlit spirit of the islands. The brand’s products are made on Maui, handcrafted in small batches and formulated with local salts, spices, oils and botanicals.

The idea began when founder and former pro surfer Shelley Lee and her husband ended years of globe-trotting and chasing waves and settled on a 7-acre farm on Maui’s North Shore. Lee began blending her holistic rituals and healing practices with indigenous ingredients like sea salt from Moloka'i, macadamia nut oil from the Big Island and mangos from her own farm.

Her goal: to create skincare solutions that restore radiance after sun-and-salt exposure in a way that remains earth-friendly from production to packaging.

Now found across the islands in limited supply, Oshan’s ‘Olena Body Bliss and seven-step Full Facial Ritual Set have become hot commodities. Visitors often discover the brand via spa treatments at resorts such as the Four Seasons at Wailea or The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua on Maui, or Mauna Lani on Hawaii’s Kohala coast. “Oshan Essentials resonates because of its authenticity and deep sense of place,” says Lee. Despite her success, Lee isn’t planning to scale up or sell out. The brand’s strength lies in its connection to community, she says. This was especially evident following the deadly wildfires that devastated Maui in 2023. In the immediate aftermath, Oshan Essentials donated proceeds and provided food and amenities to survivors. Lee and her husband are still involved in sustainable rebuilding efforts. “Giving back,” she says, “was a way to honor the place and people who inspire everything we do.” oshanessentials.com WRITING: JENNY B. DAVIS

Maui Wowie: Oshan Essentials’ ’Olena Body Bliss, inspired by Hawaiian surf culture.

Tahnei Roy (Surfer)

Maui, Hawaii

Where Art Meets Opulence in the Heart of the Riviera Maya Hidden among the lush jungles and turquoise cenotes, Hotel Xcaret Arte pairs the natural beauty of Mexico with its vibrant heritage.

Contact your travel advisor today to begin planning.

Funjet Vacations is not responsible for errors or omissions. Bookings are subject to the current Funjet Vacations terms and conditions. Funjet Vacations materials (including, but not limited to, names, trademark, service marks, logos, marketing materials, etc.) shall not be used, reproduced, transmitted or distributed in any way, except with the express written consent of Funjet Vacations. CST #2139014-20. 48418 9/25

RADAR OBSESSION

shades of cool

SKIP THE BORING SUNGLASSES SHOP AT THE AIRPORT AND TRY ON THESE AVANT-GARDE SUNNIES INSTEAD.

AKONI

Swiss exactitude meets Japanese artistry for vintage elegance.

The pinnacle of premium.

(Juno-One, 12-karat gold, $980)

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SILHOUETTE

Classic style, updated. This Aussie newcomer is all about ergonomic innovation.

(Rondinara in pure gray, $540)

MYKITA

AHLEM

OLTRE VOLUME 12

Where Paris and Los Angeles collide, beauty lies in the nonchalance. Laid-back luxury, perfected.

(Jeanne in black, $570)

These statement frames exude a Berlin state of mind. German precision and cutting-edge design.

(ML16 in Leica brown, $829)

WRITING: GABRIELLA ONESSIMO

Introducing the Next Era of Small-Ship Cruising S TA R S E E K E R — N O W S A I L I N G . S TA R E X P L O R E R — A R R I V I N G 2 0 2 6 .

VERANDA SUITE

Step aboard Windstar’s newest all-suite yachts and experience small-ship cruising reimagined.

Star Seeker, already at sea, brings spacious suites, elevated dining, and our signature relaxed elegance to destinations around the world.

Coming next, Star Explorer expands the experience with even more all-suite comfort, sweeping verandas, and immersive itineraries designed for true explorers.

BASIL & BAMBOO

NOW IS YOUR MOMENT VIP privileges. Exceptional experiences.

Exclusively for you.

Contact your Travel Advisor today.

Atlantis The Royal, Dubai, United Arab Emirates

FEATURE MED SPA

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The Secret Life of

Water

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WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: MARINA SPIRONETTI

THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH DOES EXIST. TO FIND IT, HEAD TOWARD THE HILLS SOUTHEAST OF ROME. Fiuggi, Italy 49

“Longevity.” It's the latest buzzword on every wellness brochure these days. But within the historic walls of Palazzo Fiuggi, it’s anything but jargon. Since at least the Renaissance, the ancient commune of Fiuggi, about an hour's drive from the capital, has been heralded for its mineral-rich thermal waters. Michelangelo credited the town's water with dissolving his kidney stones. Pope Boniface VIII had these waters shipped to Rome in barrels.

Originally established in 1913 as a grand, art nouveau hotel, Palazzo Fiuggi became a favored retreat for Italy's former royal family and the likes of Pablo Picasso, Anthony Quinn and Ingrid Bergman, who all came to revel in the local water’s mysteries. The palazzo underwent a significant transformation in 2021 when Lorenzo Giannuzzi, the mogul behind Forte Village in Sardinia, renovated and reopened the hotel as a cutting-edge medical spa. Water remains at the heart of the resort’s philosophy.

Fit Check: (Opposite) The pool at Palazzo Fiuggi. (Top) A fountain of Fiuggi water and (above) a staff physician in the med spa.

FEATURE MED SPA

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My first morning begins at dawn with a stroll through the estate’s park. The misty hilltop setting combines with Fiuggi’s old town to create an almost cinematic backdrop.

I walk past a giant sequoia, with its impressive bark and majestic branches long recognized as symbols of long life.

Ironic? The full picture emerges as I step into the sleek marble-and-wood hallway that leads to the spa, where an extensive battery of medical tests awaits me: blood and urine samples, genetic microbiota profiling, ECG, and measurements of my oxygen levels and blood pressure, as well as a body-composition analysis to map my fat, muscle and hydration levels with frightening clarity. What follows is the opposite of clinical detachment, though.

Doctors and nurses patiently translate the results into everyday language, addressing my queries with warmth. It’s liberating, especially for someone like me who has often avoided checkups out of fear.

Over the next several days, it becomes clear that what makes Palazzo Fiuggi work — aside from being a lovely hotel — is its harmony of encounters: a science-driven approach that incorporates wellness practices, and Western medicine that blends seamlessly with Eastern traditions.

It’s a 360-degree concept designed to encourage lasting transformation, whether you stay for one week or several.

I’m in for a week.

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An extensive battery of medical tests awaits, but what follows is the opposite of clinical detachment.

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Wet and Whiled: Taking in the view from the pool at Palazzo Fiuggi, wearing a Kinda swimsuit.

FEATURE MED SPA

This philosophy also involves fitness. Meeting the High Performance Method team is one of the highlights of my stay. Their state-of-the-art evaluation generates a detailed chart — aimed at preventing injuries and boosting physical performance — of my musculoskeletal health, stability and flexibility. After the initial assessment, my work continues in the 4,300-square-foot movement lab, housed in the former ballroom. Trainers who have coached elite athletes from clubs such as AC Milan meticulously tailor my sessions, approaching movement with a science-based methodology.

The program even extends beyond the resort, with customized walking and cycling routes through the stunning, sparsely populated countryside. My hiking guide? A former track-and-field champion.

The MS Remedy Body Work System marks another high point. Created by Dr. Maya Skupien, this series of treatments is designed to restore energy flow and release long-buried tension. Working along the body’s meridians, which are connected to detoxifying organs, the system follows the principles of traditional Chinese medicine. I can say without hesitation that I received the finest treatment of my life in Dr. Skupien’s hands — an unspoken dialogue of touch and breath.

Throughout the week, every new challenge at Palazzo Fiuggi feels like a step toward a better and healthier — or, at least, more self-aware — version of myself. Science, bodywork and nutrition come together like different instruments in the same orchestra, each reinforcing the others.

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THE ULTIMATE DISCRETION Choosing a wellness retreat, especially at a medical spa, is a highly personal decision.

Your travel advisor can work discreetly with SONO Travel Club, an exclusive concierge service that specializes in, among other things, matching discerning travelers with Italy’s most suitable medical facilities and aesthetic clinics specific to their needs.

“We have a network of around 300 partner properties that includes medical resorts, spas and cutting-edge hospitals,” says SONO's Ignazio Ciraulo. “These range from detox and weight-loss programs to medical checkups and even aesthetic microsurgery.” And far beyond wellness, SONO can partner with your advisor to curate a full Italy itinerary that celebrates art, music, gastronomy and more.

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Benjamin Button Slept Here: (Top) A massage in the spa and (above) the Royal Suite at Palazzo Fiuggi. (Opposite) The hydrotherapy circuit.

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Throughout the week, every new challenge at Palazzo Fiuggi feels like a step toward a better and healthier — or, at least, more self-aware — version of myself.

CONTENTS FEATURE MED-SPA MED ARTICLES SPA

INSIDER INSIGHT: “Palazzo Fiuggi customizes everything, and you can stay as long as you like. The thalassotherapy pools are incredible, and the osteopath is transformative. Note: While this is a good place to go with a spouse, or even a group of friends, it is not social like The Ranch.”

—Dana Pesky Herrman, travel advisor

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Scene Stealer: (Above) The dining car, ready for service.

Waiting Room: In the lobby of Palazzo Fiuggi, Bolbo wears a Kinda swimsuit and embroidered pants.

Nutrition, though, is my Achilles. Fortunately, it’s not all salads and smoothies here. That said, whichever plan you follow, it will be a highly structured path that excludes bread, coffee and — OMG! — wine. Yet the paradox is extraordinary: Overseen by chef Heinz Beck of Rome’s Michelin threestar La Pergola, the exquisitely balanced menu is served in a grandiose dining room. Beck’s evidence-based approach to nutrition, I soon learn, has produced more than 1,600 recipes, all designed to reflect Palazzo Fiuggi’s healthful philosophy. Adorned as it is with frescoes, marble sculptures and Murano chandeliers, the atmosphere is downright hedonistic — and the famous chef’s menus are anything but punitive, even if you’re on the most restrictive plan of just 1,200 calories a day.

Between meals, I discover endless rituals of renewal. The Roman thermae complex recreates the ambience of ancient baths, with saunas, hammams and Fiuggi’s enigmatic water flowing through thalassotherapy pools, hydrotherapy circuits and mud wraps. I take advantage of a wide range of supplemental beauty treatments, from facials formulated

by Dr. Barbara Sturm, Hollywood’s go-to skin guru, to the Japanese-inspired Kobido sculpting facial massage. My absolute favorite? Cryotherapy — an invigorating three-minute freeze in vaporized nitrogen, with me singing and dancing to “Flashdance...What a Feeling" at full volume to distract from the cold.

At the end of my retreat — if we can call it that — I leave the reassuring walls of the palazzo with not only a set of comprehensive test results (beautifully bound in a book), but also with new tools to build upon: usable dietary advice, sensible movement strategies, and even sleep protocols to help me incorporate a sense of well-being into my everyday life. Do I suddenly feel as if I’ll live longer? Hard to say.

Assuredly, though, I do feel lighter in body and mind.

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Health Insurance: (Above) A server presents a healthful lunch in (below) Palazzo Fiuggi’s main dining room, which features frescos by Galimberti.

Palazzo Fiuggi Medical, longevity and wellness programs require seven days minimum and start from about $5,760.

Narrowly focused hiking programs start at three days from $2,410. All programs include a diagnostic workup, guided activities, detailed nutrition plan and all meals, plus post-visit concierge benefits — but do not include overnight accommodations, supplemental tests/ therapies or spa treatments. Rooms start at $800/night.

Your travel advisor can secure SELECT perks, including a $150 spa credit.

FEATURE RIVER CRUISE

QUEEN of the

AMAZON 56

A&K SETS SAIL ON PERU’S AMAZON BASIN, WHERE THE HIDDEN BECOMES SEEN — BUT ONLY IF YOU LISTEN. Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, Peru

OLTRE VOLUME 12

WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: SUSAN PORTNOY

57 Jungle Cruise: (Above) A&K Sanctuary’s Pure Amazon riverboat and (opposite) a squirrel monkey in the Amazon forest.

First comes the sound: a hollow note of exhalation that echoes across water the color of milky tea. A flash of pink then teases my eye before the dolphin slips beneath the surface again.

Our skiff lingers at the point where two tributaries converge.

Fish gather beneath the hull, in the swirling currents where food is abundant, and with them come the pink dolphins.

We hold our breath, hoping for another glimpse, yet each sighting is only a fragment — a blush of color, a curved fin, a long and narrow beak. The elusive cetaceans are lightningquick and uniquely adapted to this ephemeral habitat. Helen Arevalo, the only female naturalist guide in the Peruvian Amazon, explains that unfused neck vertebrae allow pink dolphins to rotate their heads nearly 180 degrees. Couple that with their elongated fins, and they can easily navigate the seasonal floods that submerge the rainforest, with water levels that can exceed 15 feet.

Like the dolphins, the meandering Amazon itself revels in elusiveness. Birdsong and the chatter of monkeys drift through the canopy, but their owners often stay hidden from view. I learn quickly that what remains unseen is what makes the pursuit irresistible.

FEATURE RIVER CRUISE

Our three rotating naturalist guides, however, are immune to the rainforest’s misdirection. With seemingly preternatural gifts, they discern wildlife where I see nothing at all. Even with Leica binoculars — a pair of which is furnished to each Pure Amazon guest — I still need Robinson Rodriguez to direct my gaze toward the shaggy silhouette of a three-toed sloth inching from one branch to another at dizzying heights.

“It has a baby,” he says. When I look again, I spot the infant, draped belly-to-belly across its mother. Minutes later, a troop of squirrel monkeys flits through the trees. I’m instantly smitten with their sweet chestnut faces, eyes ringed with pale bandit masks, peering down through a lattice of leaves.

Our adventure had begun two days earlier in Nauta, Peru, the gateway to the richly biodiverse Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve in the upper Amazon Basin, where Abercrombie & Kent’s newly christened riverboat awaited, moored in the harbor. We arrived after sunset, when only a cluster of shimmering lights hinted at the vessel offshore. As we approached, the glow sharpened into columns of glass rising from the river, each framing a softly lit room. In the darkness, the ship appeared as a floating gallery, its tranquil interiors glowing like a museum's dioramas. By day, its exterior mirrored the reserve’s ever-changing scenery.

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Slothful Days: (Above) The spa pool on the upper deck.

(Opposite) Naranjilla fruit, also known as lulo, and threetoed sloths in the jungle.

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FEATURE RIVER CRUISE

INSIDER INSIGHT: “All the suites are similarly laid out and spacious.

However, it's important to note that whenever the ship is docked, you’ll enjoy more privacy in the portside cabins. The starboard cabins offer lovely views in port, but [because of activity on the water] there’s less privacy facing the river.”

—Linda Sergeant, travel advisor

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Mystic River: (Above) A room with a view on Pure Amazon and (opposite) local children at play in the Amazon Basin.

A man paddles past my window — a reminder that, for the thousands of people who live here, the river is both highway and home.

The sleek, contemporary design I’d seen from the water is softened by a neutral palette drawn from the river and jungle, complemented by vibrant accents that evoke the brilliant hues of rainforest creatures. Inside, woven textures of local reeds are set against polished mahogany. Textiles hand-painted by Shipibo-Konibo women artists, bearing kené motifs — graphic ancestral patterns that illustrate unity and connection — ground the ship in the traditions of the region’s indigenous communities. Egg-shaped bronze and clay sculptures arranged in a series of inverted triangles evoke the scales of the endemic paiche, one of the largest freshwater fish in the world.

The motif extends to my suite (one of merely 12 cabins, collectively accommodating a maximum capacity of only 22 guests), where a glass wall opposite my bed transforms the river into a living mural. Most days, before the usual early-morning skiff ride, I lie beneath velvety sheets, admiring the waking rainforest. The canopy is a veil of black lace silhouetted against a cotton-candy sky; yet, as the light lifts, it dissolves into a sea of shifting greens.

In a dugout canoe, a man paddles past my window — a reminder that, for the thousands of people who live here, the river is both highway and home.

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FEATURE RIVER CRUISE

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Day after day, we push deeper into the wild. The ship’s three skiffs (rather than the standard two for a ship this size) allow us to explore waterways the graceful Pure Amazon cannot travel. It may seem like a small distinction, yet it brings big rewards: fewer voices on the water, and the freedom for each boat to chase its own curiosity — paddling a kayak, casting for red-bellied piranhas, slipping into the river for a swim (while trying not to think of the aforementioned piranhas or paiches; do bring a swimsuit) or visiting local communities.

I look forward to small rituals: the cooling sting of an iced towel against my sun-warmed skin, the tang of a camu camu sour from the ship’s cozy bar, or a single, exquisite confection left in my suite each afternoon. The artisanal treats are a collaboration between A&K and chocolatier Fatima Carranza, who crafts them from cacao harvested by the Awajún community, along with aguaje and goldenberry, both fruits native to Peru.

INSIDER INSIGHT: “I’m normally not one to venture into the unknown, but I dove into the Amazon for a swim, knowing the piranhas were there — assured by our A&K guides that the fish wouldn’t bite. And now I can boast of doing something that few beyond the locals have done. It’s a memory I will carry forever.”

—Leslie Tillem, travel advisor

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Fishing Expedition: (Above) An A&K guide removes the hook to release a piranha back into the river.

(Opposite) The lounge on Pure Amazon.

CONTENTS FEATURE RIVER ARTICLES CRUISE Amazonian Prime: (Clockwise from top) Oscar fish tiradito with camu camu berries, togarashi and Brazil nuts, the ship’s dining room and a fish stew with corn beer and ají amarillo.

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By nightfall, exploration shifts from river to table. Under the soft glow of candlelight, the chefs present a beautiful tableau of the evening’s ingredients, underscoring a commitment to seasonal Peruvian flavors — a preview of what’s to come. Each five-course dinner is a wellpaced performance of taste and texture: smoked paiche tartare with citrus and ají, for example, or a shrimp stew brightened with cocona fruit, or duck braised in tucupi with wild cassava. Each dish arrives beautifully plated and paired with South American wines that complement the menu’s rhythm.

When the last plate clears and we exchange good nights, I draw back the curtains in my cabin. Dark and silent, the river slips past — unseen but ever-present beyond the glass.

It moves as it always has, unchanged by our brief intrusion.

Come daybreak, the river will still hold its mysteries close, but this new boat has taught me how to see.

Details A&K Sanctuary's Pure Amazon sails three- to eightnight cruises in Peru’s Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve.

Rates from $5,475, inclusive of meet-and-greet services and airport transfers between Iquitos and Nauta. Your travel advisor can plan a detailed itinerary with preand post-cruise hotels and tours in Peru and beyond.

Cabin Fever Dreams: (From top) View from a suite on Pure Amazon and a modern en-suite bathroom.

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FEATURE DESTINATION GUIDE

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a return to the Riviera

OLTRE VOLUME 12

WRITING: JANE FOSTER

IT’S NOT JUST A STOPOVER ANYMORE. REVIVED BY A NEW GENERATION OF RESORTS, THE ONCE-FADED PLAYGROUND OF BRIGITTE BARDOT AND FRANK SINATRA HAS OFFICIALLY ENTERED ANOTHER HEYDAY. Athens Riviera, Greece

The 2,500-year-old, white-marble Parthenon that crowns the majestic Acropolis high above Athens is the first stop on many itineraries in the Greek capital — most merely stopovers en route to one of the islands.

But just a short drive away from the city center lies a gorgeous stretch of deep-blue Aegean coast, adored by locals, that most international tourists overlook.

With waterside promenades affording endless views over the glimmering Saronic Gulf, the Athens Riviera runs 40 miles from the city’s Piraeus Port (making it incredibly convenient for anyone cruising in or out of Athens) all the way southeast to Cape Sounion, a rocky promontory graced by the Temple of Poseidon, built by the ancients in the fifth century BC to honor their god of the sea.

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On the Rocks: Linda wearing a The Frankie Shop top and stylist’s archive hat on the shore of Glyfada on the Athens Riviera.

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Clearwater Revival: On the private beach at One&Only Aesthesis, Mercedes wears a HAÁLS swimsuit.

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The sun-soaked Athens Riviera first peaked as a destination for the international jet set in 1961, when the opening of Astir Palace on a private peninsula in Vouliagmeni lured a parade of A-listers: Aristotle and Jackie Onassis, Brigitte Bardot, Yugoslavian president Tito, Joan Collins and Frank Sinatra, to name a few. Many of those same luminaries frequented the nearby Asteria Beach Club that sprawled across 52 acres of beachfront property in neighboring Glyfada. But as the Greek islands fashionably followed suit in the 1970s, the Riviera slid out of vogue, quietly evolving into a residential outpost for wealthy Athenians eager to indulge in everything their balmy Greek summers have to offer — golden sand beaches, waterside restaurants serving fresh fish and Champagne in silver ice buckets, beach clubs hosting live music beneath the stars, and marinas for setting sail to the islands.

The coast's allure peaked again in 2019, when the Astir Palace reopened — after an extensive refurbishment — as Four Seasons Astir Palace, marking the arrival of the first global luxury-hospitality brand to the southern suburbs. The resort’s waterside facilities include lovely beaches, backed by fragrant Aleppo pines, and the Astir Marina, concealing 59 superyacht berths plus the designer boutiques of Gucci, Dior and Louis Vuitton.

Excitement swelled again in 2023, atop the footprint of the original Asteria Beach Club, when Kerzner International opened One&Only Aesthesis, which counted Kylie Minogue among its first guests. Set amid leafy parkland and inspired by the original club's mid-century architecture, One&Only offers quintessential indoor-outdoor living, plus gourmet dining and the first Guerlain Spa in Greece.

More recently, last spring, Cape Sounio, a 1970s property on the Riviera’s southern tip, reentered the scene after a remodel

by Grecotel Hotels & Resorts. Here, suntanned guests laze in bungalows and villas set amid olive trees, pines and pinkflowering oleander, or practice morning yoga on the beach with views of the mighty Temple of Poseidon. And the buzz is still growing. Up next: The Mandarin Oriental, Athens is slated to open in summer 2027 within Ellinikon Experience Park, a 75-acre green retreat that will also be home to the 50-story Riviera Tower — Greece’s tallest skyscraper to date.

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My Big Fat Greek Bedding: Sea-view room at Grecotel’s The Roc Club on the Riviera’s Lake Vouliagmeni.

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On the Riviera SOUNIO, A GRECOTEL RESORT TO LIVE * CAPE Near the Temple of Poseidon, an icon has

come back to life with 139 contemporary bungalows, villas and suites. Spa, pool and two private beaches with water sports and scuba center. $$

SEASONS ASTIR PALACE HOTEL GREECE * FOUR The historic, 75-acre, 303-room resort on a pine-clad peninsula in Vouliagmeni is the first and only Greek hotel to receive three Michelin keys, along with a Michelin star for Pelagos.

Beaches, seawater pool, spa and a superyacht marina. $$$

AESTHESIS ** ONE&ONLY Glyfada’s heyday begins again with One&Only’s 141 luxurious low-rise rooms, residential-style bungalows and pool villas, sprawled atop the 52-acre footprint of the original Asteria Beach Club. Get lost among the resort’s three pools, beach cabanas and fab indoor-outdoor dining.

Two private yachts (with chefs available) encourage full-on island explorations or a simple afternoon cruise. Feeling fat? There’s a fitness center with personal trainers. $$$

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Poseidon Adventures: (Top) The Nafsika pool at Four Seasons Astir Palace and (above) the bathtub in a villa at Cape Sounio.

ROC CLUB, A GRECOTEL HOTEL TO LIVE * THE This 34-room boutique hotel opened in 2024 near Lake Vouliagmeni — known for thermal springs and healing energy. Sea-view pool.

Rooftop restaurant. $$

* PICTURED ** ON THE COVER

INSIDER INSIGHT: “At One&Only Aesthesis, splurge for one of the bungalows — even the ones without sea views still have gorgeous panoramas of the mountains surrounding Athens. Their outdoor areas will make you never want to leave. And if you forgot your sunscreen, look for FREZYDERM, a great local brand that's not really sold in the U.S.” —Jill Kallet Lustigman, travel advisor

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The Riviera runs 40 miles from the city's Piraeus Port — making it incredibly convenient for anyone cruising in or out of Athens.

The Greek Life: On the terrace of a two-bedroom beachfront suite at One&Only Aesthesis, Linda wears a HAÁLS bikini and a The Frankie Shop skirt.

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SWIMSUIT COMPETITION A FEW FAVORITE SHOPS FOR WHEN YOU WANT TO DRESS LIKE A GREEK MODEL:

Rodanos The Rodanos branch at Astir Beach stocks Greek swimwear by Sophie Deloudi, resortwear by Therinós and beach towels by Aelia Anna. astir.gr/beach/rodanos Stefania Frangista Chic bikinis, one-piece swimsuits and surf suits, designed and made in Greece. Showroom open in Kolonaki. stefaniafrangista.com Orlebar Brown British-made, Greek-isles-inspired men’s swimwear at Astir Marina. orlebarbrown.com The Greek Designers Store In the main terminal at the Athens airport, this can't-miss boutique stocks Greek-made designer swimwear, pareos and sunglasses. greek-designers.com

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Picking up the Pieces: A VIX bikini and One&Only Aesthesis hat.

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Nearby in the City ACADEMIAS HOTEL Centrally located between posh Kolonaki and grungy Exarcheia, this 60-room Autograph Collection hotel features an Orloff Spa and Pnoes Wellness Center with indoor pool.

Acropolis views from the rooftop Japanesefusion gastro bar. $ ATHENS CAPITAL HOTEL - MGALLERY In central Athens near Syntagma Square, this 177-room 1950s hotel reopened as an MGallery in 2020. Top-notch gym. Acropolis views from the rooftop infinity pool and bar-restaurant. $ DOLLI * THE In Plaka, a grand 1920s neoclassical building

is now a 46-room Grecotel in mainly white.

Stunningly photogenic rooftop infinity pool with reach-out-and-touch-it views of the Acropolis. Nice little gym. DOLLI guests have access to the beach at Cape Sounio. $$$

GRANDE BRETAGNE * HOTEL On Syntagma Square, the historic grande

George Fakaros (Hotel Grande Bretagne), Emil Pabon (One&Only Aesthesis), Heinz Troll (The DOLLI)

dame of Athens is now a 320-room Luxury Collection hotel. Among these palatial rooms’ former guests are Queen Victoria and David Bowie. GB Spa with amethyst grotto and barber shop. Indoor and outdoor pools.

Lycabettus-view rooftop pool and bar. $$

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KING GEORGE Another Luxury Collection heritage hotel on Syntagma Square, the 102-room King George is home to the Michelin-starred Tudor Hall rooftop restaurant. No spa. But the twobedroom Penthouse Suite’s private pool does have Acropolis views. $$ NEW HOTEL In centrally located Plaka, this 79-room Design Hotels property embraces recycled 1950s hotel furniture by the Brazilian Campana Brothers. Hip. Fun. Cute little spa. $ XENODOCHEIO MILOS After achieving global acclaim with his estiatorio Milos restaurant empire, Costas Spiliadis returned to Athens to open this equally chic, 43-room gastro hotel (with a new flagship restaurant, of course) in a renovated 19th-century neoclassical building near Syntagma Square. ELEMIS spa. TechnoGym. $

Your travel advisor can arrange a local guide and translator and can also secure extra perks, including resort credits and complimentary daily breakfast for two, at these Internova SELECT and CURATED hotels.

Eat, Play, Love: (Top) Rooftop dining at Bar 8 at Hotel Grande Bretagne in Athens. (Center) Mercedes wears a VIX bikini on the Riviera. (Bottom) A suite with Acropolis views at The DOLLI.

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Barefoot in Athens: (Top) The pool at Cape Sounio with the Temple of Poseidon in the distance.

(Above) The rooftop of The DOLLI with panoramic views of Athens.

Heinz Troll (The DOLLI)

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INSIDER INSIGHT: HELICOPTER CHARTERS “Helicopter transfers make for seamless connections between the Riviera and Greece’s most iconic islands.

Mykonos is just 45 minutes away. And from the Astir Marina in Vouliagmeni, we also arrange scenic flights along the glittering coast for breathtaking views of the city and Cape Sounion.”

—Eva Saringala, Eclectic Greece by Kyvernitis Travel, an in-country partner who works with your travel advisor to curate bespoke Greece itineraries

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Greece Lighting: Mercedes wears a Banana Moon bikini and Greek Archaic Kori kimono-and-pants set at One&Only Aesthesis’ two-bedroom beachfront suite.

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INSIDER INSIGHT: YACHT CHARTERS “For a one-day adventure, take a private speedboat to the island of Hydra, departing from Vouliagmeni and closing with a golden sunset beneath the Temple of Poseidon. For a one-week trip, charter a sailing boat and head toward the Cyclades, with stops in Kea, Kythnos, Serifos and Sifnos.”

—Vickie Ioannidou-Drakou, Original Senses Greece, an in-country partner who works with your travel advisor to create custom itineraries in Greece

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Shade Tolerance: A pool at Four Seasons Astir Palace on the Vouliagmeni peninsula of the Athens Riviera.

(Opposite) Linda wears a Melissa Odabash swimsuit and Karl Lagerfeld skirt at One&Only Aesthesis.

CRUISE-SHIP SPOTTING CHECK YOUR CALENDAR AND PLAN ACCORDINGLY. THESE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE CRUISE SHIPS VISITING ATHENS’ PIRAEUS PORT THIS YEAR.

April Four Seasons 1 Explora 1 May Crystal Serenity Cunard Queen Victoria Explora II Four Seasons I Oceania Allura Oceania Sirena Regent Seven Seas Grandeur Regent Seven Seas Splendor Ritz-Carlton Ilma June Four Seasons I Regent Seven Seas Splendor Explora II Ritz-Carlton Ilma July Regent Seven Seas Splendor Atlas Ocean Voyages World Traveller Explora II Oceania Allura Ritz-Carlton Ilma August Regent Seven Seas Splendor Atlas Ocean Voyages World Traveller Explora II Oceania Sirena

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September Crystal Serenity Atlas Ocean Voyages World Traveller Cunard Queen Anne Cunard Queen Victoria Explora II Ritz-Carlton Evrima

ON LOCATION AT ONE&ONLY AESTHESIS PHOTOGRAPHY: EMIL PABON ART DIRECTION: DEVIN DUCKWORTH STYLING: MARILENA KARAGIANNI @ 10 ARTISTS MANAGEMENT HAIR AND MAKEUP: KONSTANTINOS SAKKAS @ D-TALES MODELING: LINDA @ ACE, MERCE @ AGENCIA PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: GABRIELLA ONESSIMO PHOTO ASSISTANT: ELLIE BALATSOURA @ 10 ARTISTS MANAGEMENT STYLING ASSISTANT: EIRINI ANASTASIADI

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THE ofFEAST SEVENTY DISHES ONE WEEK, 70 DISHES AND A MILLION WAYS TO REGRET BRINGING A SWIMSUIT ON A CRYSTAL CRUISE. Rome to Monte Carlo

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WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: BRAD A. JOHNSON

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When Crystal came back to life in 2023, its ships welcomed two new dining concepts: Beefbar, an offshoot of the see-and-be-seen steakhouse brand from Monte Carlo, and Osteria d’Ovidio, a posh Italian dining room by the famed Alajmo family, whose Veneto-based restaurant empire includes the Michelin three-star Le Calandre. But it wasn’t until this past August that the new osteria finally unveiled a series of long-awaited tasting menus, including one inspired by chef Max Alajmo's greatest hits at Le Calandre.

Dining on Crystal's ships has always been stellar — among the best at sea. I’m back on board Symphony to find out if that’s still the case.

DAY ONE: CIVITAVECCHIA The ship’s main dining room — updated and renamed Waterside — is now first-come, first-served, which means no more rigid dining times or forced group-seating assignments. One thing that did not change: Menus never repeat on any given cruise. And the first night is always special, so I pity anyone dining elsewhere tonight as we sail away from Civitavecchia, because this charred octopus salad, these rarely offered morel mushrooms with asparagus, and this stunning chocolate cake with blacksesame ice cream… Dang. Seriously.

The Mediterranean Diet: (Clockwise from top) Crystal Symphony anchored in the Mediterranean, an octopus salad with tomato gazpacho and parsley jelly, and the revamped dining room now known as Waterside.

(Opposite) Chocolate cake with yuzu pearls and black-sesame ice cream.

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DAY TWO: SARDINIAN COAST As we glide away from Olbia just after sunset, I settle in for dinner at Osteria d’Ovidio. It’s gorgeous, but... uh-oh! A snooty woman at the next table has just sent her lamb chops back to the kitchen. “I said very well done,” she jeers in her British accent. Oh, Hyacinth, please. Relax. Try the burrata ravioli with squid and mussels — it's perfect. And this tagliolini dressed with nothing more than smoked butter?

My mind is blown. And finally that lamb, medium-rare? As good as it gets. Do not send it back.

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Via Veneto: (Clockwise from top left) The dining room at Osteria d’Ovidio, the restaurant’s smoked tuna carpaccio with caviar, skewers of fried langoustine wrapped in pasta dough, osteria chef de cuisine Emiliano di Stefano, tagliolini with smoked butter, and burrata ravioli with squid, mussels and confit tomatoes.

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Variety Show: Marrunga lamb ribeye with smoked eggplant, onion and Greek yogurt at Waterside.

(Opposite, clockwise from top) Crystal Symphony anchored in the Mediterranean, Waterside’s scallops with smashed peas and Symphony’s main galley chef de cuisine Herbert Brindl.

INSIDER INSIGHT: “The reason Crystal has such a cult following is the training and tenure of the staff. They’re so personable and take such good care of you. Even the main dining room is amazing. One night, my husband requested Wiener schnitzel, even though it wasn’t on the menu.

The next day, they had it for him."

—Anna Cruz, travel advisor

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DAY THREE: ELBA We're anchored in Portoferraio, and I'm up early for the jogging track, but five laps around deck 7 — which adds up to more than a mile — does little to offset my calorie intake of the last two days. It’s the most I can muster.

Today’s itinerary: an hours-long breakfast, followed by a green smoothie for lunch (willpower, yes!), then midafternoon tea with a tower of finger sandwiches at Palm Court (oh, never mind). Pickleball with the husband lasts two minutes before we decide we’d rather be sipping a spritz at the Crystal Cove bar before dinner again at Waterside. Later: nightcaps at Avenue Saloon as we sail toward Cinque Terre.

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DAY FOUR: LA SPEZIA

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After hiking the streets of Riomaggiore while slightly hungover, we're primed for dinner at Beefbar, where, quickly sated by a platter of house-cured beef prosciutto and fried panettone, I contemplate stopping while I'm ahead. But onward we persist: quesadillas of braised Wagyu and Manchego — smothered in a mountain of black truffle — plus the cutest little Caesar salad anyone has ever seen, and a genuinely fabulous New York strip with excellent béarnaise and beef-tallow fries. I could eat this exact same meal again and again.

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Beef Cow Fun: (Clockwise from left) The dining room of Crystal Symphony’s Beefbar and the restaurant’s Caesar salad, house-cured beef prosciutto with fried panettone, and a grilled New York strip.

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DAYS FIVE & SIX: THE ITALIAN RIVIERA

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The increasingly languid days run together now. “Is our cabin getting smaller, or am I getting bigger?" I ask, without receiving an answer.

I bought a new swimsuit for this cruise — and I intended to drink all day by the pool tomorrow — but I don’t think the suit fits anymore. So maybe we should take the tender into Portofino instead. Crystal has organized a lunch at Splendido ($480 per person). “Should we? We've never been,” the husband attempts to rationalize.

“Nah,” I decide. “Let's do Beefbar again.”

Lazy Sunday: (Clockwise from top left) A poolside lounge chair on Crystal Symphony, a perfect gin martini in the Avenue Saloon, Umi Uma chef de cuisine James Kemi at the sushi bar, and the coastal commune of Portofino, Italy.

INSIDER INSIGHT: “When in Monte Carlo, the original Beefbar is only 15 minutes from Hôtel de Paris. If you’re staying there, they will get you in — just don’t wear jeans. Everyone is gorgeous, and it’s the most amazing people-watching.

Order the Wagyu." —A.C.

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DAY SEVEN: MONACO There's a sign taped onto the ab machine in the gym today: “Out of order.” I waddle back to deck 7 for more laps around the track. We’re docked in Monte Carlo all day and overnight, so we muse about an impromtu dinner in the municipality. But first: “Let’s just see if they have availability at the sushi bar.”

And, score! We're staying on the ship.

Over-splurging in Monte Carlo will have to wait until after we disembark.

Details: Crystal Symphony will spend winter and spring sailing around Africa and Asia before arriving in the U.S. and Canada for summer. Rates from $3,900, inclusive of all meals and drinks and at least one visit to each specialty restaurant. Your travel advisor can plan a full itinerary, including pre- and post-cruise hotels, transfers and tours.

Twilight Zone: A Technicolor sunset over Monte Carlo, Monaco, with Crystal Symphony sailing away on the horizon.

SPOTLIGHT THE LEGEND

WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: SIMON URWIN

GREAT

SCOT!

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BORN AS A GOLF RETREAT IN THE 1920S, GLENEAGLES HAS EVOLVED INTO AN ALL-AROUND SPORTING CLUB, SPA RESORT AND CELEBRATORY DINING DESTINATION. Perthshire, Scotland

Malt Disney: (Top) The Gleneagles estate, just outside of Auchterarder in Perthshire, and (above) a Gleneagles linksman in the resort’s signature tweed. (Opposite) The Laich Loch fishing hut.

It took several months for the chef to perfect the chocolateorange Jaffa cake on Gleneagles’ afternoon tea menu — a creation so exquisite, it seems a shame to cut into it. As the server lifts a portion onto my plate, she explains that the greatest challenge was crafting a lifelike zest so the delicate sphere of vanilla sponge, marmalade and chocolate mousse resembled a real mandarin. The ingenious solution: to coat it in a shell of white chocolate and orange-cacao butter, then use the heat of a blow-dryer to achieve the beautifully dimpled finish.

The result proves to be a suitably spectacular finale to the three-hour, Champagne-fueled affair, where each dish — from truffled eggs on toast to fish and chips made with layered potato, cod roe and capers — offers an elevated twist on the British classics that graced the original train journey from London to Gleneagles during the Roaring Twenties.

Opened in 1924, The Gleneagles Hotel was conceived by Donald Matheson, general manager of the old Caledonian Railway, as an opulent “Riviera in the Highlands.” An avid golfer (Scotland being the birthplace of golf, after all), he envisioned an all-encompassing travel experience: Passengers would arrive on his trains at a dedicated station, play on his world-class golf links and sleep overnight in his grand hotel, designed in the style of a magnificent Edwardian country house with flourishes of a French château.

In the century since, Gleneagles has evolved far beyond those gentlemen-of-golf origins, most recently under the stewardship of Ennismore, the global collective of lifestyle and hospitality brands, which has overseen a tasteful yet sensitive refurbishment and significantly expanded the golf retreat into a comprehensive sports club, equestrian school, spa retreat and dining destination.

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Yet Gleneagles has not strayed far from its original charm offensive, squarely anchored in time and place. With its rich oak paneling, glowing fireplaces and the bonhomie of kilted doormen, the resort evokes a cozy intimacy that belies its size.

There are 233 rooms and suites in total, each one an artful blend of classic and contemporary with colors inspired by the surrounding landscape: muted tones of moss, slate, berry and thistle, crisply detailed with traditional textiles such as tartan and tweed.

As inviting as the bedrooms are, it’s impossible to linger long when there is so much to see and do on the 850-acre estate. Over a signature breakfast of porridge oats served with raspberry compote and Drambuie sauce, I peruse the hotel’s encyclopedic list of activities: traditional sports such as shooting, horseback riding and fishing now sit alongside more modern pursuits including off-road driving, sport climbing and high-intensity padel. Once selected, the day’s itinerary can then be tailored even further with the help of a ‘Playground Planner’ — part concierge, part butler.

I begin with a falconry lesson. I’m teamed up with a Harris's hawk that, thrillingly, takes to the wing from my leather-gloved hand, then — coaxed with fresh meat as a reward — swoops back and forth with the speed and precision of an assassin.

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Scotch Tapestry: (Top) Boots and gloves in the falconry snug and (above) the Royal Lochnagar suite. (Opposite) The Highland herd.

GETTING THERE: The tiny, Victorian Gleneagles train station is still in use.

The fastest direct service from London King’s Cross takes approximately five-and-a-half hours, followed by a five-minute complimentary car transfer to the hotel. An overnight Caledonian Sleeper service is also available between Gleneagles station and London Euston and takes around eight hours. Alternatively, both Edinburgh and Glasgow — airports and train stations alike — are a one-hour drive away.

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While the cattle come in many colors, he says, Queen Victoria, who vacationed nearby at the royal family’s Highland home, adored those with red tresses most of all.

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HOT TAKES WITH CONOR O’LEARY, GLENEAGLES’ MANAGING DIRECTOR Favorite thing to do on property?

Shooting lessons, horse riding, or padel inside our newly refurbished Sporting Club... It's difficult for me to choose. My daughter is particularly fond of the Highland cow safari we recently added. This breed is such an icon of Scotland, and our guests have loved getting to know these new hairy friends.

Any spoiler alerts?

You might be surprised by how family-friendly we are. Yes, we have sumptuous dining and incredible adult experiences. But we also pride ourselves on looking after our littlest guests with the same standards. We spoil, pamper and entertain them, just like we do their parents.

Your go-to spot for a drink?

The Century Bar is a wonderful spot for a solo drink at the end of a long day. At that time, we've got a whole cross section of guests in the bar, from those who are enjoying a restorative dram after a long day in the countryside — still wearing their outdoor clothes and with ruddy cheeks — to those who are starting the night early and dressed in their most glamorous attire.

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Horse Power: (Top) Counter seating at The Birnam, an American-Italian grill. (Above) A handler with one of the horses. (Opposite) The lobby lounge.

INSIDER INSIGHT: “A unforgettable highlight was driving vintage Defenders off-road in the Scottish Highlands — stick shifts, hills and more sheep than I could count! — plus clay shooting with an expert instructor, a proper Scottish character and someone who had us laughing the entire time."

— Fallon Lieberman, travel advisor

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CONTENTS ARTICLES SPOTLIGHT THE LEGEND For Peat’s Sake: (Clockwise from left) Bartender Leon Daly pouring an Amber Stem whisky cocktail, a chocolate-orange Jaffa cake at tea time, and the hotel’s vintage Rolls-Royce.

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After a rejuvenating break in the grounds' luxuriant spa and indoor pool, I join Richard Scott, a gamekeeper turned countryside guide, on an excursion to meet the hotel’s herd of Highland cattle — which are grazing under the dramatic Perthshire skies in the shadow of Orchil Castle. Scott explains that their distinctively long bangs are known as a dossan. While the cattle come in many colors, he says, Queen Victoria, who vacationed nearby at the royal family’s Highland home, adored those with red tresses most of all. Despite their intimidating horns, many are as affectionate as Labradors.

I’m petting one particularly friendly heifer when thunder suddenly detonates in the distance, threatening a downpour.

It’s the cue to trade my raincoat for a suit jacket and seek the comforts of The Strathearn, the oldest of Gleneagles’ five restaurants — a collection that also includes the Andrew Fairlie dining room (named for the late chef whose restaurant here was Scotland’s first to earn two Michelin stars). My equestrian adventure will have to wait for another day.

The Strathearn exudes a timeless elegance, with attentive yet unfussy service from the team of bow-tied waiters who glide around the room serving Franco-Scottish fare from their walnutand-brass gueridons. Highlights of the menu include a fine beef Wellington, whisky-smoked salmon with juniper berries, and hand-dived scallops in a fabulous Pernod and white wine sauce.

INSIDER INSIGHT: “The service and attention to detail at Gleneagles are truly second to none. And of the many dining options, The Dormy (clubhouse grill) became my favorite. It has such a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and the food is exceptional."

—Millie Macauley-Dodds, travel advisor

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For a digestif (or two), I try the hotel’s Gatsby-slick American Bar, adorned with decadent, heather-hued cashmere wallpaper.

There, mixologist Leon Daly recommends Branches & Leaves, a drink crafted with whisky, blackberry moonshine and Cocchi Americano. “Slàinte mhath,” he says (“cheers” in Scottish Gaelic) as I sip the fruity-floral blend. To finish, he suggests an Amber Stem — Gleneagles’ interpretation of a Manhattan, served with a garnish that resembles a cherry but is, in fact, an orangecaramel bonbon that slowly absorbs the whisky and vermouth, transforming it into a deliciously sweet chocolate liqueur.

As I retire, Daly bids me a cheerful “Haste ye back!" — a Scottish farewell meaning “Come again soon!” After a few days of Gleneagles' self-styled “glorious playground,” where heritage and luxury converge in such sublime style, it’s an invitation I’ll gladly accept.

Gleneagles Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks, including a $100 dining and bar credit (excluding Andrew Fairlie) as well as complimentary daily breakfast for two. $$$$ OLTRE VOLUME 5

On The Other Hand: (Above) Hamish, one of Gleneagles’ Harris’s hawks and (top) the hotel’s Edwardian façade.

INTERVIEW LAST WORD

THE OLTRE Q&A

with ANNELIE

POMPE WRITING: MICHELLE TCHEA

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What inspired your love of water?

Growing up next to the sea in Sweden, with the rocks and rough terrain, gave me a strong connection to nature.

Annelie Pompe lives on a boat on Sweden’s West Coast and feels most at home when immersed in nature. An amphibious adventurer and the author of five books, Pompe was the first Swedish woman to summit Everest from the northern face and, since then, has climbed the world’s seven summits, including Puncak Jaya and, her most recent, Mount Vinson. Pompe is also a yoga teacher, a photographer, a pilot and the current worldrecord holder for free diving — 414 feet with a single breath. The Gothenburg native is a modern-day Amelia Earhart, Sir Edmund Hillary and Esther Williams, all rolled into one.

Proudest achievement?

Setting the free-dive record the same year I climbed Mt. Everest.

Do you ever feel fear?

Often. Fear helps me focus.

Earliest memory of travel?

My parents took me to Mallorca on a flight when I was seven.

It was amazing. I spent so much time in the warm sea, I almost became a mermaid.

Do you wear sweatpants on airplanes?

No! Greatest extravagance when traveling?

Flying my own helicopter.

Favorite surf spot?

Nusa Lembongan in Bali.

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Which trait do you admire most in a travel companion?

The ability to stay calm.

First thing you do after returning home?

Hug my dog. I miss him so much when traveling.

Sea Life: Annelie Pompe diving off the coast of Dahab, Egypt.

WINTER 2026: THE SWIMSUIT ISSUE DESTINATION GUIDE: SUN AND FUN ON THE ATHENS RIVIERA WHAT’S NEXT IN SPAS: FROM HIGH-INTENSITY SPORTS TO MICROSURGERY QUEEN OF THE AMAZON: ON THE WATER WITH PINK DOLPHINS AND PIRANHAS CRUISE CONTROL: THE PERIL OF BRINGING A SWIMSUIT ON A GOURMET CRUISE FOR PEAT’S SAKE: IT’S THE ROARING TWENTIES AGAIN IN THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS PLUS: HOTEL REVAMPS, WILD SWIMMING AND AN EPIC ROCK-AND-ROLL PLAYLIST