OLTRE - Volume 11: The Taste Issue

ÓL• TRE

THE TASTE ISSUE

You’re Invited

Welcome to the newest volume of OLTRE, our exclusive quarterly magazine filled with inspiration and ideas for your next trip — and beyond.

In this issue, explore the world through food and drink. Whether by land, rail, air or sea, each story will whet your appetite for discovery. Here’s to special moments, unforgettable meals and memories yet to be made.

JANUARY 15 - 18, 2026

Raise A Glass To All That’s Good

Join us for a celebration of world-class wines and acclaimed chefs at South Florida’s iconic The Boca Raton—in support of a meaningful cause. In partnership with Napa Valley Vintners.

100+ Winemakers | 20+ Michelin-Starred & Celebrated Chefs

20+ Curated Experiences | Vintner-Hosted Dinners

Gala and Charity Auction

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE INFORMATION.

New

Continental GT Speed.

It takes a different kind of energy to start something powerful. Introducing the new Continental GT Speed.

The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2025 Bentley Motors, Inc. Models shown: Continental GT Speed.

EVERY STAY TELLS A STORY

Four Seasons redefines what it means to get away. From secluded retreats to sun-soaked cities, each moment is elevated by legendary service, world-class amenities and settings as unforgettable as the experience itself.

CONTACT A TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE BENEFITS AVAILABLE WHEN BOOKING FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS

AT A GLANCE SOUND/BAR

New Orleans, Louisiana

Chicago, Illinois

Mission Viejo, California

Makunudhoo,

OLTRE’s Volume 11 playlist channels a vintage South Side rhythm from Travelle Lounge at The Langham.

An artist celebrates the ancient Japanese craft of gyotaku

The Waldorf Astoria is back! Plus: a delicious airportlounge upgrade, a fab new museum, leopard safaris and cool leather totes.

California

New York, Hong Kong, Kenya, Japan

Soneva Secret,

The World’s Most Awarded Safari Company.

A safari is unlike any other experience and Micato Safaris is unlike any other company: For every safari sold, we send a child to school. Contact your travel advisor for details. The World’s Most Awarded Safari Company.

Fancy Tables: The city’s hottest reservations.

Luxe Cocktails: Posh lounges and the best mixologists.

K-Pub Life: Next-gen, high-end gastropubs and anju bars.

Street Food: The ultimate pocha crawl

The Grill Masters: Because no visit is complete without barbecue.

Royal Banquets: Nostalgia for the old days.

Australia, Switzerland, Chile and beyond: These are the 10 must-visit new restaurants we’re obessing over this year.

Sea-aged wines are the latest treasure on the wine list.

FRESH LOCAL INGREDIENTS

Destination Dining ™

From savory British meat pies to handmade South American empanadas, our Destination Dining™ celebrates each region’s authentic local flavors. Enjoy fresh, locally sourced ingredients, artisanal breads and pastas made fresh daily, and menus curated by our world-class Culinary Ambassadors.

Contact your travel advisor to book today.

Just Taste

My mother served Waldorf salad at every holiday gathering: apple, celery and pecans (because we lived in the South), bound together with a healthy dollop (or three) of Hellmann’s mayonnaise. Even though the dish itself wasn’t particularly fancy, its origin story struck a fanciful chord: The Waldorf Astoria in New York, a hotel synonymous with sophisticated society, introduced the recipe in the late 1800s. As a kid, my job was to assemble the ingredients (and make sure we remembered to pull it from the fridge before everyone sat down) and it dazzled me to think that our family table included something from one of the most glamorous hotels in the world.

Recently, I sampled the nostalgic salad in that very hotel, now in a glitzy new era after a long-awaited renovation. Even though today’s recipe in no way resembles the version from my childhood, eating it felt sentimental. That’s the thing about food – it’s more than the literal meal, but the memory, experience and who shares it with you.

ADThe Taste Issue celebrates those special moments around the proverbial dining table, be it on a yacht in the Mediterranean, at a pop-up street bar in Seoul, on a train through Italy, at a famed New Orleans restaurant and, yes, in New York’s Waldorf Astoria. There are also interviews with chefs and fashion founders, travel advisor insight, new restaurant recommendations, plus art and culture and enough travel news and inspiration to fill your calendar for the next year and beyond.

Enjoy this issue — and here’s to new discoveries, unforgettable meals and memories yet to be made.

Senior Vice President, Content Elaine Srnka

Key takeaways from my recent travels.

Where I’ve Been:

Inspirational escapes, tailored for today’s modern traveler.

Ask your advisor about the benefits this hotel offers.

Senior Vice President, Content

Elaine Srnka

Vice President, Publishing

Laura Sport

Editorial Director

Brad A. Johnson

Art Director Devin Duckworth

Copy Editor

Jennifer Weston

International Correspondents

Nicholas Gill (Latin America), Carolyn O'Neil (Caribbean), Kathryn Romeyn (Bali), Chris Schalkx (Bangkok), Laura Schooling (London), Marina Spironetti (Milan) Contributors

Natali Afsar, Tanveer Badal, Steven Biller, Alexandra Carlton, Jenny B. Davis, Adam Erace, Joshua Hilario, Mary Holland, Maria C. Hunt, Chaney Kwak, DaVian Lain, Jason Michael Lang, Jingyu Lin, Teddy Minford, Don Nichols, Gabriella Onessimo, Michelle Tchea, Simon Urwin, Nicole Wing

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Katarzyna Turska

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ON THE FRONT COVER:

Shot on board the Orient Express La Dolce Vita train in Rome, Italy. Photography by Simon Urwin.

ON THE BACK COVER:

Shot on location at La Yeon restaurant at The Shilla in Seoul, South Korea. Photography by Jason Michael Lang.

President, Global Travel Collection

Angie Licea

President, Nexion Travel Group

Jackie Friedman President, Travel Leaders Group

Lindsay Pearlman

OLTRE is published quarterly by Internova Travel Group, one of the largest travel services companies in the world. Internova brands represent more than 100,000 travel advisors in more than 6,000 company-owned and affiliated locations throughout the United States, Mexico, Canada and the United Kingdom, with a presence in more than 80 countries. Publisher assumes no responsibility for representations or changes to travel information and pricing described herein, which are subject to change and availability, and restrictions may apply. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written consent of Publisher. Direct editorial and subscription inquiries to editors@oltremag.com and advertising requests to advertising@oltremag. com. Internova Travel Group is headquartered at 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019; Internova. com. Copyright © 2025 Internova Travel Group.

Mondrian Ibiza Ibiza, Spain

ELEVATIONS OF WELLNESS

A JOURNEY IN HISTORY, HEALING & HAPPINESS

Athens Riviera

SOMETHING

DWIGHT HWANG’S STRIKING GYOTAKU PRINTS SOUND A SIREN FOR THE SEA — AND SPARK A DIALOGUE ABOUT OCEAN CONSERVATION.

Mission Viejo, California

Dwight Hwang was working as a storyboard artist in Tokyo when he became obsessed with the gyotaku (a Japanese craft of fish printing originally used by fishermen) that were displayed in the local sushi restaurants, each one strikingly commemorating a catch. Inspired by their intricate detail, the Korean American artist, who hails from Orange County, California, taught himself the art form by watching YouTube videos. He then abandoned a 20-year film career to pursue gyotaku full-time, hooking Patagonia as his first client — and, since then, exhibiting his work in museums around the world.

The process begins by brushing a thin layer of Japanese sumi ink over a freshly caught and cleaned fish (or octopus, crab, seaweed, etc.), onto which he then delicately presses a lightweight but durable sheet of washi (mulberry paper) to gently capture its distinctive scales, textures and features. He hand-paints the eyes but eschews any further embellishments, honoring not just tradition but also the marine life itself. dwighthwang.com

From above:

“ Octopus with Swirls of Suminagashi"

“ Pacific Footballfish "

Opposite:

“ Catalina Island Kelp Scene of Various Perch " Japanese sumi ink on mulberry paper

SOUND

THE LANGHAM CHICAGO’S MID-CENTURY-STYLED TRAVELLE LOUNGE CHANNELS A VINTAGE URBAN RHYTHM IN THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN.

Chicago, Illinois

Hovering above the Chicago River between State and Wabash, boxed in by skyscrapers on all sides, Travelle Lounge enjoys one of America’s most electrifying cityscapes. Director of music Andrew Grant mixes that downtown energy with South Side cool for a playlist that saunters from post-disco soul and afro-funk B-sides to lo-fi R&B and psychedelic jazz. Listen carefully for cameos by hometown all-stars Loleatta Holloway, Ron Trent, the Impressions and Herbie Hancock.

WRITING: BRAD A. JOHNSON

BAR

“Tche Belew” by Hailu Mergia and The Walias

“Don’t You Know” by Jan Hammer Group

“Seein’ Stars” by Turnstile

“Smile” by Durand Jones & The Indications

“Blind” by Hercules & Love Affair, Frankie Knuckles Remix

“The Space Between” by Roxy Music

“Up 2 U” by dreamcastmoe, Will DiMaggio and DJ EAZ

“Atwer Abroba” by Ebo Taylor

“Use My Body” by Mavis John

“Space Talk” by Asha Puthli

“The Message” by Cymande

“I Need Somebody To Love Tonight” by Sylvester

“Gentle Persuasion” by Doug Hream Blunt

“Dooyo” by Dur-Dur Band

“The Magnificent Moon” by Mildlife

“Take Me With You” by Lyn Christopher

“You Can’t Change a Man” by Christy Essien Igbokwe

“Love Will Set You Free” by Carrie Cleveland

“Na Real Sekele Fo’Ya” by Pasteur Lappe

“Let the Drums Speak” by Fatback Band

The Langham Chicago

Bonus grooves: Guests staying in the 316-room hotel’s clublevel rooms gain exclusive access to The Langham Club

Lounge’s intimate listening nook, stocked with vintage Chicago vinyl. Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks, including a $100 hotel credit and daily breakfast for two.

Scan to open our playlist in Spotify.

Frozen Hour cocktail at Travelle Lounge

The Langham Chicago

WHAT’S ON

ART, CULTURE, MUSIC, SPORTS… ADD THESE MUST-ATTEND EVENTS TO YOUR SOCIAL CALENDAR THIS SEASON.

NOW – JANUARY 11, 2026 MILAN, ITALY

OCTOBER 1 – 24

LONDON, ENGLAND

OCTOBER 3 – 5 AND 10 – 12 AUSTIN, TEXAS

OCTOBER 22 – 26

NASSAU, THE BAHAMAS

OCTOBER 31, 2025 – MARCH 29, 2026 SINGAPORE

NOVEMBER 1 – 2

MEXICO CITY, MEXICO

NOVEMBER 4

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA

NOVEMBER 22, 2025 – APRIL 5, 2026

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

NOVEMBER 27, 2025 – JANUARY 18, 2026 AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS

Wadsworth (Austin), Natasha

Tontey

van den Eijnden (Amsterdam)

“Man Ray: Forms of Light” at Palazzo Reale

“Like Water for Chocolate” at Royal Opera House

Austin City Limits

Bahamas Culinary & Arts Festival at Baha Mar

Singapore Biennale

Día de los Muertos

Melbourne Cup

“ Pablo Picasso: Late Picasso" at Moderna Museet

Amsterdam Light Festival

HOT

SEQUINS, LEOPARDS, NOODLES AND GREENLEATHER TOTES — INTEL FOR THE JET SET.

SHOTS

HOTEL OPENING : AT LONG LAST...

New York, New York – After an eight-year, $2 billion renovation, the Waldorf Astoria New York is back — and more glamorous than ever. The 1931-era grand dame is a shell of its former self, in the best conceivable way: Its monumental makeover slashed guest rooms from 1,400 down to merely 375 (now among the city’s most spacious) while restoring the landmark's original art deco grandeur.

Peacock Alley still serves as the heart of the hotel. It’s a vibrant all-day lounge rich with historic details, from the ornate clock gifted by Queen Victoria to Cole Porter’s grand piano, which is played nightly. The staff changes uniforms according to the time of day, in the evening debuting blue velvet suits and full-length gold-sequin gowns. (Too much? Not in this town.) Bar seating is limited; request a corner banquette and order the reimagined Waldorf salad and one of the house martinis. And don’t miss those addictive spiced nuts and house-made Cheez-Its.

For the full dining experience, Lex Yard serves a brasseriestyle menu with a bit of everything, while Yoshoku is a kaisekistyle Japanese restaurant located, oddly enough, in the lobby. Still “coming soon” are a Guerlain Wellness Spa (promised to be the brand’s largest) and the iconic Grand Ballroom — imagine the secrets shimmering in those chandeliers. $$$

Jingyu Lin

Midtown Revival: (Top) At Waldorf Astoria’s Peacock Alley bar, Jason wears a Canali jacket and pants with a Brioni shirt and Carlos Santos shoes. (Above) Smoky Rob Roy at Peacock Alley.

Laikipia, Kenya – The elusive black leopard roams the Suyian Conservancy in Kenya’s lesser-visited Laikipia region — and as of July, it now shares that 44,000-acre private wilderness with &BEYOND'S new Suyian Lodge . It’s designed to blend in with the surrounding granite kopjes — 14 Afro wabi-sabi suites with private plunge pools and expansive views. Game-drive options include by foot, camel, horseback or helicopter. $$$$

AIR : LOUNGE UPGRADE

Hong Kong – Cathay Pacific has reopened The Bridge , the airline’s beloved Terminal 1 lounge, which had been closed since the pandemic. Food plays a big role in the sleekly redesigned space, which is split into two sides. Go left for Chinese favorites like dim sum and braised beef shin at the Noodle Bar or regional small plates and light bites like crispy scallion pancakes at The Nook. Go right for the new Food Hall, where chefs prepare international fare like beef bourguignon in front-of-the-house ovens.

(Opposite page)

PHOTOGRAPHY: JINGYU LIN

CREATIVE DIRECTION: DEVIN DUCKWORTH

STYLING & CASTING: DAVIAN LAIN

GROOMING: JOSHUA HILARIO

MODELING: JASON MORGAN @ TWO MANAGEMENT

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: GABRIELLA ONESSIMO

STYLING ASSISTANT: MEGAN HOLLIS

SAFARI : LEOPARD COLONY

Cathay Pacific’s The Bridge at HKG

&BEYOND Suyian Lodge

SHOPPING : BAG NIRVANA

New York, New York – In need of another Le Pliage tote? Maybe save that splurge until you’re back in New York, where Longchamp has completely transformed its 9,000-square-foot Soho flagship, La Maison Unique , with the help of renowned designer Thomas Heatherwick, who returned to give the old space a bold makeover blending Parisian sophistication with New York’s modern pulse. No mere bag boutique, it’s a destination defined by art, architecture and leather — and now the brand’s signature shade of electric green. longchamp.com

Naoshima, Japan – Benesse Art Site Naoshima, the lauded collection of museums and art facilities on the islands of Naoshima, Teshima and Inujima, unveiled its newest project in late May: the Naoshima New Museum of Art . The contemporary art museum’s inaugural exhibition showcases large-scale installations by Heri Dono, Pannaphan Yodmanee and 10 other prominent and emerging artists from Japan and other Asian countries. Pritzker Prize-winning architect Tadao Ando designed the museum, his 10th project for the collection and another example of his mastery of raw concrete and natural light. benesse-artsite.jp/en/nnmoa

ART : MUSEUM ISLAND

Naoshima New Museum of Art

Adrian Wilson (Longchamp)

Longchamp’s La Maison Unique

Where to NextEat

TASMANIA FOR SCOTTISH CUISINE? OR LONDON FOR THAI? PLUS SWITZERLAND, MEXICO, CHILE AND BEYOND: THESE ARE OUR 10 FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANTS THIS YEAR.

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, MEXICO – Odín Rocha’s tenure at Mezcal in Los Cabos propelled his name into heated conversations about Mexico’s next It chef. And that buzz will surely grow louder now that he’s returned to Rosewood San Miguel de Allende , the resort (and town) that originally put him on the map, to launch Pirules Garden Kitchen . The laid-back indoor/outdoor, freestanding restaurant sits atop a grassy knoll behind the hotel, surrounded by towering jacarandas, olive trees and outdoor fireplaces — with a direct line of sight to the town’s iconic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. Rocha cooks over mesquite charcoal, and most of his provisions come from farmers within a 60-mile radius. Some of it he picks himself, just steps from the kitchen. Local chickens get slathered in red chile adobo and baked until breathtakingly supple, served in clay pots alongside handmade tortillas straight off the griddle — an elegant riff on barbacoa. He takes an even more refined approach with fideo seco, a popular Mexican comfort food, which he infuses with beef short rib and tops with a cured egg yolk and fresh local cheese. And when pristine red snapper arrives from the coast, usually Guerrero or Nayarit, Rocha grills the fish and pairs it with coconut rice and a fistful of quelites (herbs and weeds). rosewoodhotels.com

REPORTING: ALEXANDRA CARLTON, ADAM ERACE, NICHOLAS GILL, MARY HOLLAND, BRAD A. JOHNSON, KATHRYN ROMEYN, CHRIS SCHALKX, LAURA SCHOOLING, MARINA SPIRONETTI AND MICHELLE TCHEA

Brad A. Johnson (Pirules Garden Kitchen)

Odín Rocha at Pirules Garden Kitchen

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA – Neptune’s Grotto or Dante’s inferno? Officially, it’s the former, but this clubby new restaurant near the harbor — from one of Sydney’s edgiest dining groups — has a little of Column A (as the Roman god of the waves peers at diners from the center of the room) and a little of Column B (animalprint walls that glow a fiery orange). On the plates, however, the vision is clear: decadent, slick Northern Italian dishes such as cotoletta alla Milanese, agnolotti del plin and panna cotta with aged balsamic. neptunesgrotto.com

LAUSANNE, SWITZERLAND – Auberge de l’Abbaye Montheron recently opened in a former Cistercian monastery in the foothills of Jorat Nature Park, a 10-minute taxi ride from Lausanne (on the French-speaking side of Switzerland). The new destination restaurant is run by chef Alba Farnós Viñals and her partner, Paul Marsden, who takes charge of the wine cellar. While the chef is Catalan, she cut her teeth in Paris. Her dishes change according to the whims of Mother Nature and the growing seasons of Switzerland’s Central Plateau. Everything is hyperlocal: Black Angus beef from a farm down the road, fish from the nearby lake, and — the pièce de résistance — cheese produced within the bounds of the surrounding forest. The wine list, dominated by natural wines, takes diners on a countrywide tour, unveiling chasselas from Vaud, petite arvine from Valais and pinot noir from Graubünden. montheron.ch

Palmerio

Alba Farnós Viñals at Auberge de l’Abbaye Montheron

Tortelloni at Neptune’s Grotto

ROME, ITALY – One of the most compelling arbiters of contemporary Roman cuisine, chef Sarah Cicolini has moved her cult trattoria, SantoPalato , to a larger, airier space in Via Gallia. The decor remains charmingly retro — tiled floors, marble tables, French bistro chairs — but the food is as bold as ever. Expect a fearless celebration of Rome’s quinto quarto (offal) tradition, with dishes like smoked beef heart and tomato-braised tripe alongside pitch-perfect pastas and daring drink pairings. (Yes, that’s sake with your carbonara.) A must-stop for anyone serious about eating in the capital. santopalatoroma.it

OSAKA, JAPAN – Patina Osaka ’s signature restaurant, P72 , pays homage to Japan’s 72 micro seasons, or shichijuni-ko . Surrounded by organic gardens, the indoor/outdoor, zero-waste restaurant is the passion project of Australian chef and culinary director Antony Scholtmeyer, formerly of Capella Bangkok, Patina’s big sister. At the core of his open kitchen, Scholtmeyer maintains a fermentation lab — an ever-changing menagerie of glass jars filled with sakura leaves (for wrapping oysters), preserved grapes, mushrooms and more — where the chef also leads weekly workshops for fermentation-curious guests. Outside in the sundappled garden, staff carefully pluck hyperlocal bounties, which they transform into bright, beautiful and inventive plant-forward dishes, often involving seafood. The lemon koji risotto with garden peas, chive flowers, sea bream and poached fennel is sublime. patinahotels.com/osaka

Sarah Cicolini, and two ways with duck, at SantoPalato

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EPICUREAN PERFECTION ™

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COPENHAGEN, DENMARK – Epicurus, a new fine-dining Nordic restaurant from Lars Seier Christensen (Geranium and Alchemis) and Mads Bøttger (Dragsholm Castle Gourmet) delivers a first for Copenhagen: an adjoining jazz-lounge theater with soaring ceilings and oak-paneled walls where guests settle into velvety tub chairs around small marble tables, eyes turned toward the stage as musicians perform. Waiters quietly top up Champagne and deliver some of the city’s finest cocktails — among them a blend of strawberry gin, elderflower and fig. And on the plate: Chef Oliver Bergholt offers five- and eight-course tasting menus as well as à la carte bites like oysters and truffle cream or Ibérico-ham-filled gougères. epicurus.dk

The bar and oysters at Epicurus

PARADISE once LIVED is

never

FORGOTTEN

Every flavor tells a story. At Nekajui, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve cuisine is not only savored but felt—an invitation to experience the extraordinary. Local ingredients, masterful technique, and immersive journeys create moments that linger beyond the table.

BREAM CREEK, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA – First things first: It's pronounced OR-heid. The spelling, Oirthir , is Gaelic for “seacoast,” and the name fits this setting like an Australian Speedo. It’s a minimalist, 20-seat cabin perched on a downy slope overlooking Tasmania’s Marion Bay on the sparsely populated, rural eastern side of the island. At the seven-course lunchtime tasting — and for a simpler three-course supper — spouses/French-trained chefs Jillian McInnes and Bob Piechniczek explore the edible ecological kinship between Tassie and their native Scotland: oysters with wild samphire (what we call sea beans), a smoked and abaloneenhanced Cullen skink (fish chowder), soda bread rippled with seaweed… The handsome wooden knives for the accompanying butter were carved by Piechniczek’s father. oirthir.com

LONDON, ENGLAND – British-born chef John Chantarasak celebrates his Thai roots with AngloThai , a dichotomous dining experience that is both precious (pristinely designed tasting menu) and laid-back. Just blocks off Hyde Park, the Marylebone locale makes for an ideal extended lunch or date-night dinner. Expect lots of shellfish and plenty of spice on pretty, well-paced plates. The curry dishes are standouts. anglothai.co.uk

Candied beet and Comice pear at AngloThai

Jillian McInnes, Bob Piechniczek and a fish at Oirthir

Adam Gibson (Oirthir); Charlie McKay (AngloThai)

Our secret ingredient? The Caribbean.

Every dish at Sandals ® Resorts is prepped with sun-ripened, island-fresh ingredients and every flavor tells a story you’ll never forget. From the zing of Jamaican jerk to the burst of international flavors at Sandals Royal Curaçao, when you’re here, your tastebuds will travel farther than your passport.

Come taste all we are.

Contact Your Travel Advisor

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA, CHILE – Two young Atacameños, Sergio Armella and Carolina Colque, opened a restaurant in rural Ayllu Poconche that has all of Chile abuzz. Using a mix of ancestral and modern techniques, Ephedra reimagines the one-of-a-kind flavors of the driest desert on Earth through short tastings paired with stillundiscovered chardonnays and pinot noirs from Northern Chile. Expect trout from the Juana River cured in native halophyte cachiyuyo that grows in the salt marshes and dried chañar fruit roasted in hot sand to make a panna-cotta-like dessert. ephedra.cl

BANGKOK, THAILAND – What happens when the flavors of Northern Myanmar’s Shan region meet the conviviality of a Japanese izakaya? Bangkok’s new Namsu holds the clue. Opened in the recently renovated Baan Trok Tua Ngork building by the team behind Yangon mainstay Rangoon Tea House, this dimly lit dining room serves elevated Shan staples such as pork-brain pâté, tea-leaf salad and sticky-rice-stuffed chicken alongside Bangkok's largest collection of artisanal sakes. Leave room for dessert, as the Basque cheesecake with fish-sauce caramel is a knockout. @namsu.bkk

Grilled river trout at Ephedra

Cofounder Htet Myet Oo at Namsu

Cruise ships continue to spice up their sailings with highprofile pop-ups and guest appearances by renowned chefs. These are the top ship/chef pairings on our radar for 2026.

Ponant ’s lineup of guest chefs includes Denny Imbroisi , one of Paris’ most famous Italian chefs, on a Sicilianthemed cruise in April aboard Le Dumont-d’Urville round trip from Valletta. Then in July, Dominique Lory , executive chef of Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, boards the same ship on a voyage from Nice, with calls on Corsica and Northwest Italy. And when Le Bougainville sails into the Caribbean in December 2026, chef Marcel Ravin of Monte Carlo’s Blue Bay and Elsa restaurants will be cooking on board. Rates from $5,400

Chanthy Yen , the Cambodian immigrant who won last year’s Top Chef Canada, will sail the Mekong River on Emerald Cruises ' Emerald Harmony in October 2026 as part of a 13-day itinerary through Cambodia and Vietnam. Rates from $5,724

Holland America Line ’s 34-day Grand World Voyage aboard Volendam will feature culinary sightings of Iron Chef legend Masaharu Morimoto , whose global restaurant empire includes a sushi bar on the ship (March and April in Japan), and Pacific Northwest star chef Ethan Stowell , owner of a dozen restaurants in and around Seattle (April and May along the Pacific coast). Rates from $6,694 .

GUESS WHO’S COMING TO DINNER?

YOUR NEXT SAILING COMPANION COULD BE ONE OF THESE WORLD-RENOWNED CHEFS.

Cunard ’s Queen Anne reprises Le Gavroche at Sea for a third season with chef Michel Roux once again behind the stoves at Sir Samuel’s Steakhouse for a series of Norwegian fjords itineraries in May, August and November, plus another to Iceland and the British Isles in July. Rates from $1,119 .

Best-selling cookbook author and longtime TV personality Sara Moulton joins Oceania in May for a sailing on Marina from Lisbon to Paris. And in July, on an Alaskan cruise round trip from Seattle, Riviera will host Claudine Pépin , daughter (and trusty TV sidekick) of chef Jacques Pépin, the cruise line’s executive culinary director. Rates from $4,199

REPORTING: DON NICHOLS

Boats and Toques: (Left) Ponant guest chef Dominique Lory and (above) Masaharu Morimoto of Holland America’s Morimoto by Sea.

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Regent Santa Monica Beach

MUCH ALIVE STILL VERY

THE REPORTS OF NOMA’S DEMISE HAVE BEEN GREATLY EXAGGERATED. OH, STILL CAN’T GET A TABLE? HIT THE GIFT SHOP INSTEAD.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Securing a reservation at Noma has never been easy. The restaurant put Copenhagen — along with Nordic food culture at large — on the map when it opened in 2003, elevating indigenous ingredients and local traditions like foraging and fermenting. It’s since been named best restaurant in the world five times. Chef René Redzepi, its cofounder and co-owner, previously announced his intention to close the restaurant, but that never exactly happened. He just reinvented it. It remains open for seasonal runs while he also takes his concept on the road for pop-ups around the world.

Reservations in Copenhagen are indeed still available. But if a table proves elusive, there’s another way everyone can experience a taste of Noma, no reservation required. The Noma Projects Shop has opened inside a greenhouse on the restaurant’s village-like campus. As the name implies, the star of the shop is Noma Projects, Redzepi’s research center, which is also the name of his product line of unique items based on the restaurant’s famous flavors. It’s the only place to find Noma’s entire range of products.

While many Noma Projects items are offered online — including bestsellers like Mushroom Garum, an umamirich fermented cooking sauce, and Wild Rose Vinegar, which incorporates petals foraged by the Noma team from bushes growing along the Danish coastline — some selections have never been widely shared. These ultraseasonal items include “rare treats we can only make in limited quantities,” says Noma Projects COO Annika de Las Heras.

Shelves have also been stocked with another exclusive lately: Noma Kaffe. Launched last year, it represents Redzepi’s foray into coffee roasting. It was previously available only in the restaurant, or else by extremely limited subscriptions that were every bit as difficult to secure as a reservation. noma.dk

WRITING: JENNY B. DAVIS

Nordic by Nature: (From top) Noma staff in the field, the restaurant’s in-house roasted coffee and the Noma Projects Shop.

SAIL UNIQUE

Designed to feel like your own private yacht FOR RESERVATIONS, CONTACT A TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL TODAY.

DISCOVER THE OCEAN STATE OF MIND. Explora Journeys invites guests to sail in an inclusive, ultra-elegant home-away-from-home designed by super-yacht specialists, as they enjoy unforgettable culinary experiences and indulge in ocean-inspired wellness on a journey to iconic and lesser-travelled destinations in e ortless European style.

Cool

Gump's is more than just that famous West Coast emporium where everyone of means shops for the holidays — Gump’s is the holidays. Except for a brief closure and change of ownership a few years back, this luxury institution has been curating exquisite home wares (and fine jewelry) with a keen, playful eye since 1861. We asked the iconic retailer to dream up the perfect holiday tablescape, something warm and inviting, with the best finds from its fall collection, in store now. Let the dinner parties begin. gumps.com

San Francisco, California

WRITING: GABRIELLA ONESSIMO ILLUSTRATION: NICOLE WING

Brilliant Lady brings (new) award-winning dining…

Kid-free cruises and delicious tastes aboard our gorgeous new ship.

Board our newest luxury ship Brilliant Lady and prepare for your taste buds to go on a culinary adventure, as well. We’re expanding our innovative and award-winning food and drink program by introducing Rojo by Razzle Dazzle, a vibrant, Spanish dining experience with tapas and cava made for sharing — plus exquisite, new cocktails.

All of our Sailor favorite restaurants boast mouth-watering new menu items that’ll have you craving seconds (or thirds! No judgement!). Savor every bite knowing all dining is included in your voyage fare.

As Brilliant Lady makes her way around North America — from charming New England towns to the sparkling Caribbean, across the continent to coastal California and through the serene waters of Alaska — your palate will be indulged as well as your sense of wonder. We’re saving a seat at the table for you!

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TODAY.

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH, AT ROJO BY RAZZLE DAZZLE

IT’S GOT THAT MERMAID BOUQUET

When divers discovered a horde of Champagne in a Baltic Sea shipwreck in 2010, it sparked intrigue among producers. The bottles, first sunk in 1852, tasted so good that luxury houses and boutique wineries worldwide began experimenting with submarine cellars of their own.

“The results we’re now seeing are extraordinary,” says Vincenzo Arnese, director of wine at Raffles London at The OWO. “The ocean-aging technique imparts unique, nuanced notes of sea breeze, oyster shell and wet stone in white wines. And in sparkling wines, the texture of the bubbles is more refined.”

The hotel’s guests can now enjoy sommelier-led tastings that compare submarine-aged wines with their traditional cellar-aged counterparts. “It’s a fascinating exploration of how underwater conditions can transform the flavor, texture and character of wine,” says Arnese. Most submarine bottles, such as Exton Park’s 60 Below (so named because it is matured 60 meters underwater off the coast of Brittany, France), are produced in extremely limited quantities, making this an ultraexclusive wine experience.

WRITING: SIMON URWIN

SEA-AGED WINES AND CHAMPAGNES ARE SURFACING AS PRESTIGIOUS ADDITIONS TO THE DRINKS LIST AT RAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO.

Details:

Submarine-wine tastings from $525 per person. Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks at the 120-room hotel, including a $100 food-and-beverage credit and, if booking a heritage suite, complimentary airport transfers. $$$$

Soak the Rich: (Clockwise from left) The Raffles Suite lounge at Raffles London, a bottle of Exton Park blanc de blanc (and) director of wine Vincenzo Arnese in the hotel’s cellar.

LOCAL FLAVORS, INSPIRED CUISINE

Whether it’s a glass of Chianti in Tuscany, Basque pintxos or picnics in the lavender fields of Provence, Backroads knows how to serve up a region’s finest flavors. Combine these culinary delights with breathtaking views, five-star accommodations and scenic biking and hiking trails for the perfect vacation recipe. Bon appétit!

Hike | Bike

Paddle

ARE YOU

READY YET?

ONLINE RETAILER COUPER EXTOLS THE PERKS OF NOT BEING A WALLFLOWER.

New York, New York

The fashion mavens behind Couper wanted a place where women could pull together outfits for all occasions, from vacation must-haves to bold evening attire. The web-only shop (no brick and mortar, yet) curates looks from a range of global emerging designers that in-theknow fashion editors adore (even though they haven't yet become household names). And the brand often collaborates with others, such as Eugenia Fernandez, Lesea Berry or Neely & Chloe, to create extremely limited capsule collections — exclusive to Couper — using those designers’ deadstock (leftover) fabrics.

With holiday soirées and getaways fast approaching, OLTRE went to founding partner Lindsay Ladas for some seasonal packing inspiration.

“Invest in the outfit, but dress around the accessories."

What are you excited about this fall?

Rich, dimensional neutrals such as mossy greens, chocolate browns and deep oxblood, layered in tonal monochrome. And texture: brushed wool, satin, crisp poplin.

Accessories?

Go big or go home. I’ll always invest in the outfit, but I dress around the accessories.

What destination inspires you right now?

Hudson Valley. There’s nothing better than a weekend upstate this time of year. Style-wise, I’m reaching for heritage prints like gingham and check, chunky knits, easy layers and rich colors.

What’s always in your travel bag?

A perfectly tailored blazer, wide-leg trousers and at least one — if not 10 — statement dresses for dinner. I’m big on layering, so a crisp white button-down, knits and versatile outerwear are key. Also: vintage sunglasses, a great pair of earrings and shoes that are equal parts comfortable and stylish.

In addition to the season’s top fashion picks, Couper is introducing a limited-edition holiday collection in November. shopcouper.com

“Also: vintage sunglasses, a great pair of earrings..."

DELPHINE Tess dress ($1,295)

OLYMPIA LE-TAN

Espresso Martini Book clutch ($1,800)

ANDREA GOMEZ

Bella gold leather platforms ($390)

ZEPPLIN THE LABEL

Isobell earrings ($185)

Party Mix: Cofounders Agee Leinberry, Lindsay Ladas and Caroline Gilroy

EVERY FLAVOR MAXED

Let your vacation burst with greatness — and flavor. The world’s boldest ships serve up next-level tastes at every turn. From Chef’s Table that puts the epic in Epicurean to Izumi, where fresh sushi is always on a roll. A venture down the rabbit hole of whimsical molecular gastronomy at Wonderland. Or even a swinging, swooning jazzed up affair at Empire Supper Club. It’s time to take menus — and memories — to the max. Come Seek the Royal Caribbean ® .

Contact your travel advisor to book today!

Izumi Hibachi & Sushi SM

Giovanni’s SM Italian Kitchen

Empire Supper Club SM

Chops Grille SM

KITCHEN

WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS SCHALKX

CONFIDENTIAL

EVERY VILLA AT THIS NEW RESORT COMES WITH AN ARMY OF PRIVATE CHEFS AT THE READY.

Makunudhoo,

Maldives

In a remote corner of the Maldives' westernmost atoll, Soneva has fashioned its newest resort — 30 years in the making — for next-level exclusivity. And very private dining.

The 14-villa Soneva Secret boasts a secluded dining tower, dubbed Out of This World, with a glass-bottomed wine room and zip-line access. Inside, Brazilian chef Henrique Lork cooks cross-culture tasting menus that include everything from nori with beetroot tartare and ginger gel to carabinero prawns with corn sauce. Meanwhile, across the water, The Living Room doles out comforting classics such as farmfresh salads and meze platters and comes with access to cheese and chocolate rooms for round-the-clock snacking. And farther down the beach, a setup aptly dubbed So Primitive specializes in flame-licked and salt-crusted seafood brought in by local fishermen. All three restaurants come with wildly imaginative drink lists — banana-liqueur-spiked old fashioneds, Gibsons with pickled apricot — concocted by Rajasthani cocktail whiz Aanchal Jain.

But while all these dining venues prove wonderful, it's the room-service meals that leave the biggest impression. That's by design. Each of the resort's driftwood-clad villas is equipped with a private kitchen, complete with a stove and turquoisetinted SMEG fridge. There are pots and pans and cutting boards, but guests don't have to get their hands dirty. A roster of 14 chefs from all corners of the globe is on call day and night to cook and serve guests in the breezy comfort of their villas.

Private Intelligence: (Above) Soneva Secret all-villa resort and (below) a fresh room-service snack.

TEMPLES & TRANQUILITY

Indulge in a luxurious river cruise through Vietnam and Cambodia on the Mekong with Avalon Waterways—where ancient temples, golden deltas, and timeless villages await.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL TO PLAN YOUR NEXT RIVER CRUISE.

Each chef specializes in the cuisine of their home country — be it Italy, Vietnam, Argentina or beyond — and serves it with heaps of cultural intel. Days could just as easily start with masala chai and curried North Indian paratha flatbread as they might with an incredible(!) crab curry from Sri Lanka. Lunch might go Thai or Indonesian, with tablespanning spreads of gado gado, soto ayam chicken soup and Sumatran rendang with coconut rice. You could opt for a Latin-American or Russian tasting menu at dinner, the latter heavy on chicken liver pâté, mushroom soup, and a light-as-air yogurt and cottage cheese mousse for dessert. Or switch it up; the choice is yours — and chefs are happy to get experimental if you wish.

The ethos behind Soneva Secret is ultra-bespoke, hyperprivate hospitality. Each of the villas — one or two bedrooms (some overwater, others on the beach), retractable roofs, indoor/outdoor living — has its own private gym and spa room, along with a butler at the ready to book private workout sessions or muscle-melting massages. No other island is visible on the blue horizon, and some of the villas are so private, they're accessible only by electric boat. Days here can be filled with dolphin-spotting trips, picnics on faraway sandbanks and dives in kaleidoscopic coral reefs so remote, few others have gone before. And while the resort was supposedly full, I saw nary another guest throughout my stay. This toes-in-the-sand hideaway does, indeed, feel like the Maldives' biggest secret.

Details:

Villas start around $5,270 per night, plus round-trip seaplane transfers of $1,950. Your advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks, including a $100 resort credit and complimentary daily breakfast for two.

Currying Flavor: (Clockwise from above) One of the Overwater Hideaway villas at Soneva Secret, a private chef and made-to-order Sri Lankan crab curry.

Every location masterfully chosen. Every detail designed with elegance.

Blending the curated and the customized, the unique and the time-honored, Hyatt opens the door to sophisticated getaways in Hawaii, Mexico, the Caribbean, and beyond.

Recapture romance in sun-dappled seclusion at Park Hyatt St. Kitts Christophe Harbour, or reconnect the generations at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa.

Unlock a world of inviting luxury with Luxe by Funjet Vacations— your travel advisor holds the key.

Funjet Vacations is not responsible for errors or omissions. Bookings are subject to the current Funjet Vacations terms and conditions. Funjet Vacations materials (including, but not limited to, names, trademark, service marks, logos, marketing materials, etc.) shall not be used, reproduced, transmitted or distributed in any way, except with the express written consent of Funjet Vacations. CST #2139014-20. 47886-cm-07/25.

to Trained Thrill

A NEW GILDED AGE OF RAIL TRAVEL BEGINS WITH THE RELAUNCH OF ORIENT EXPRESS.

Rome, Italy

It was 200 years ago when the world’s first railroad opened in the Northeast of England. The service covered just 11 miles, with passengers crammed onto a single coach — a converted coal wagon with a makeshift roof, no windows, no suspension and even less comfort.

I reflect on this as Cristiano Natoli, my own personal conductor (the train’s equivalent of a butler), escorts me to my gleaming suite aboard the 30-cabin La Dolce Vita , the latest incarnation of the Orient Express — the brand that revolutionized train travel in the 19th century and became synonymous with stylish opulence.

My suite displays a spectacular blend of sleek lines and retro accents in shades of burnt orange and ripe plum that evoke the golden age of Italian glamour so vividly captured in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita (the sweet life). Natoli pours me a glass of Champagne before pointing out the room’s many modern luxuries, amenities that would’ve been unimaginable to those earliest of train travelers: airconditioning, a 24-hour room-service menu, the minibar, mood lighting, a mosaic-tiled en suite bathroom and sumptuous double bed. Then, with a courteous “Buon viaggio!” he's gone, leaving me to begin this, the second part of my Orient Express adventure.

Smooth Operator: (Opposite) Aperitivo hour on La Dolce Vita. (From top) The train’s Lounge Car and a proper welcome at Rome’s Ostiense station.

The journey had begun a couple of days earlier with a stay at Orient Express La Minerva , the brand’s return to hotels. La Minerva occupies a 17th-century palazzo in the heart of historic Rome, birthplace of an empire and the cradle of Western civilization. Some of the city’s most significant sights are easily admired from the rooftop terrace — I spot St. Peter’s Basilica and the 2,000-yearold Pantheon — while sipping a Lipari (the bar’s signature cocktail, made with gin, tarragon, orange and elderflower) or feasting on a plate of red-prawn carpaccio with citrus and pink pepper.

After a far-too-brief stay, the hotel staff whisks me to Roma Ostiense station to board La Dolce Vita . At the appointed hour, our train nudges away from the platform in the buttery afternoon light, leading a snake of 12 handsomely liveried carriages off toward Basilicata in the country’s languid South — until now, an unfamiliar route for luxury train travel.

When in Rome: (Above) Signature suite living room at Orient Express La Minerva hotel and (below) red-prawn carpaccio at the hotel’s Gigi Rigolatto Bar. (Opposite) The Flavian Amphitheatre, aka the Colosseum.

At the appointed hour, our train nudges away from the platform in Rome's buttery afternoon light, leading a snake of 12 handsomely liveried carriages off toward Basilicata in the country’s languid South — until now, an unfamiliar route for luxury train travel.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“You can never overdress aboard La Dolce Vita, so pack accordingly — and you can have the butler press your clothes. And don't go to bed too early. The entertainment at night is wonderful.”

—Caroline Settle, travel advisor

Scene Stealer: (Above) The dining car, ready for service.

The first highlight of this two-night loop quickly proves to be the dining car, bathed in the warm, Aperol-orange glow of its bespoke, mid-century-modern lighting. It soon rings with the gentle chime of fork tines on porcelain and the soft clink of crystal glasses raised in a toast as the impeccably uniformed staff present a seven-course celebration of Italian cuisine from Heinz Beck (of Rome’s Michelin-starred La Pergola, among others). On the menu: turbot with licorice, charred fennel and bergamot, and orecchiette tossed with turnip tops and ocean-fresh frutti di mare.

Contented after a round of digestivi, I retreat to my cabin, where I slumber through the starry night as we gently tremble toward Matera, in Basilicata — the “instep" region of Italy’s boot, located between the Puglian “heel" and Calabrian “toe."

While Rome is undeniably ancient, Matera is literally Neolithic. The UNESCO-listed landscape dates back at least 10,000 years. At its core is an area known as the Sassi (stones), a sprawling village of man-made cave dwellings gouged from the honey-hued limestone — among the oldest habitations on Earth — that now house trendy boutiques, restaurants, hotels and second homes.

The area is also dotted with more than 150 rupestrian churches hand-carved by Benedictine monks in the Middle Ages. The most astonishing of these is the Crypt of Original Sin, adorned with vibrant frescoes that have endured for more than a thousand years, earning it the moniker “The Sistine Chapel of Rupestrian Art.”

My privately guided city tour — everyone chooses their own excursion at each stop — unveils Matera’s culinary treasures, including sun-dried Italian peppers known as peperoni cruschi, made from a variety introduced by 17thCentury Spanish conquistadors, and pillowy Pane di Matera, the local bread with a thick crust slashed three times to symbolize the Holy Trinity.

Rock Candy: (Above) Cathedral of the Madonna della Bruna and Sant’Eustachio, atop the village of Matera, and (below) the ancient Chiesa di Santa Lucia alle Malve in the Sassi de Matera. (Left) Pasticcini delivered to a suite on board La Dolce Vita

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“A suite is ideal when sharing, while the entry-level cabin is perfect for one guest. I suggest breakfast in bed one morning, then savoring your final breakfast in the dining car — the perfect way to experience both sides of this magical journey.”

—Merrick Huckin, travel advisor

The most elevated dining experience in Matera is Vitantonio Lombardo, the world’s only Michelin-starred cave restaurant, where the lunchtime tasting unfolds like pure theater. The curtain rises to a lollipop of cod with peppers and raspberries, then later closes to a sphere of dark chocolate speckled with edible gold. The maître d', Donato Addesso, cracks the latter open with a tiny hammer, revealing — Matryoshka-style — smaller balls inside that have been fashioned from white chocolate, coconut and lemon. Addesso tells me the dessert was inspired by an annual festival in Matera, for which a grand papier-mâché chariot parades through the streets before being gleefully destroyed by the crowd — an act that is said to bring good luck.

Shortly afterward, I am back on board the train, considering my own good fortune and sipping a citrusy negroni in the Lounge Bar car. In the two centuries since the first passenger-train service departed, travel may have evolved beyond recognition, but no transport will ever rival the romance of a sleeper train — and there can be few journeys so elegant, so atmospheric or so indulgent as a ride on the reimagined Orient Express.

Details

Orient Express La Dolce Vita debuted in the spring and traverses Italy's railways with one- to three-night itineraries to Venice, Matera, Portofino, Tuscany and Sicily. Rates from about $3,500. Your travel advisor can plan a detailed itinerary with pre- and post-rail hotels and experiences.

Sleeper Cell: (Above) A suite on La Dolce Vita and (below) Orient Express’ signature backgammon board at La Minerva.

I am back on board the train, considering my own good fortune and sipping a citrusy negroni in the Lounge Bar car.

Although they share a legacy name, the just-launched Orient Express La Dolce Vita and the Belmond Venice Simplon-OrientExpress are entirely separate entities. The newly revived Orient Express brand is a joint venture between Italian hospitality firm Arsenale Group and French hotel giant Accor. The portfolio includes hotels (with Venice up next), trains (another due next year) and, soon, yachts. Meanwhile, the historic Venice Simplon-Orient-Express — along with the Eastern & Oriental Express , for that matter — is owned and operated by Belmond , which is part of LVMH. It'll be a posh ride either way.

Elevated Railroad: (Above, right) Train staff awaiting guests in Rome. (Above) Dining on board.

ABSOLUTE SURRENDER

THE RITZ-CARLTON’S NEWEST YACHT TEACHES A MASTER CLASS IN THE ART OF VACATIONING.

Mediterranean Sea

As Luminara departs the ancient island city of Ortigia, the yacht’s top deck transforms into Sicily’s most exclusive rooftop soirée. A local musician dressed in a white tuxedo channels Louis Prima under a violet sky. Limoncello spritzes catch the candlelight, and the shoreline sparkles as we glide out of the harbor. Guests in linen and silk whirl on the dance floor while servers weave through the crowd with trays of migniardises.

WRITING: TEDDY MINFORD

PHOTOGRAPHY: NATALI AFSAR

Most of my fellow travelers are stylish couples in their 40s and 50s, but there’s the occasional dazzling outlier, like the single Italian heiress dripping in what must be half a million dollars’ worth of diamonds. (Rumor has it she joined the previous cruise in Monaco and loved it so much, she stayed on for another week.) The atmosphere is sophisticated but never stiff, like a private party hosted by a generous and enigmatic friend of a friend. I feel both envy and dread. Extending another week is out of the question.

Boarding an unfamiliar ship, for me, is always an act of surrender. But that release came easily this time as I stepped into my grand suite for the first time nearly a week ago in Athens. It’s decorated in neutral tones and waterthemed abstract contemporary art, conveying pied-à-terre more than stateroom. An airy sitting parlor opens onto a private deck. The bathroom rivals that of any five-star hotel on land, with a separate soaking tub and double vanities. The dual walk-in closets are more than I can use. At turndown service that first night, my suitcase disappeared, and Luminara officially became my home — at least, until we reach Rome.

Sparkling Water: (Opposite) A marble sculpture in the Art Bar. (Above) A view of Sorrento from Luminara’ s Beach House, and the writer at sea between Sicily and Crete.

Safe Harbor: (Top) Bedroom of a grand suite and (above) harbor views in Syracuse, Sicily.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“If the owners' suite is unavailable, or out-of-budget, the grand suite is the Goldilocks of the suite categories, perfect for couples. These generous one-bedroom suites provide just enough separation between the living area and bedroom.”

—Tom Ho, travel advisor

Everyone knows the phrase il dolce far niente — the sweetness of doing nothing. On Luminara , I make that my new mantra.

This is The Ritz-Carlton’s third yacht, and it really does feel like an extension of a resort brand. The 224-suite vessel is designed for languor and privacy, with refined restaurants, plenty of quiet spaces and staff who consider every detail and predict every whim. I very quickly relinquish any stubborn self-reliance I brought on board. Here, I’m surprised to learn, I’m OK going with the flow. At breakfast, I run into the only drawback of The RitzCarlton’s plan to be unlike any other cruise: There is no buffet. Though many might consider buffets tacky, I love a high-end breakfast spread, where I can sample a mélange of tastes and flavors. Instead, I find myself facing what seems, in the moment, like a grave choice: sweet or savory?

Challenge accepted. I pull the waiter aside and ask for an off-menu chocolate croissant to accompany my eggwhite frittata, and he returns with a beautiful pastry still warm from the oven. Each morning thereafter, the staff brings me a chocolate croissant without my having to ask.

Relaxation Technique: Getting ready for dinner on Luminara off the coast of Palermo.

Before departing Chania, Crete, still early in the journey, I linger at a cafe in the late-evening sun, reluctant to give up terra firma, because tomorrow we’ll spend a full day at sea. The thought of not seeing land for 36 hours always makes me nervous. But, to my amazement, I find being trapped on board both festive and cozy, like canceling plans on a rainy Saturday night and serendipitously having a better time at home. I spend the morning in the spa, indulging in a massage that lasts forever in a treatment room that has its own private deck, before retreating to the sauna and steam room. Having nothing to do and nowhere to be, it turns out, feels downright decadent.

In Italy, everyone knows the phrase: il dolce far niente — the sweetness of doing nothing. On Luminara , since we’re now in Italian waters, I make that my new mantra. Lunch on the deck is antipasti, pizza and rigatoni all’Amatriciana. I meet new guests and catch up with friends I’ve already made. By afternoon, we're officially in the middle of nowhere when stewards appear with magnums of Whispering Angel. I abandon my book, gossip at the pool and think perhaps my new friend is on to something when she declares, “I’m not a traveler; I’m a vacationer.”

Becoming The Vacationist: (Clockwise from top) Drinks at the Art Bar, the living room of a grand suite and relaxing on the suite’s private terrace.

I

linger at a cafe in the late-evening sun, reluctant to give up terra firma, because tomorrow we’ll spend a full day at sea.

Drawn to the Light: The lighthouse at Chania, Crete.

That evening, we get dressed for a meal at Seta Su, the high-end tasting-menu restaurant. Dinner is a series of whimsically delicious morsels: miso-glazed lobster with tomato water and mint, Hokkaido scallops atop squid ink risotto, and braised Wagyu with black garlic. Each course is a work of art.

By the time we reach Taormina on the second-to-last day of our cruise, I start to grow anxious about saying goodbye. I step onto the pier and I feel… unmoored. On land, I’m wobbly, longing for the gentle rocking of my new home. I eat gelato as it melts down the side of its cone and spot Luminara shimmering in the bay. My heart races with melancholy.

Mediterranean Diet: (From top) The sundeck adjacent to the main pool, lunch at Mistral and Luminara anchored in the Mediterranean.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“In my experience, at this level of cruising, itinerary may not be the priority. The yacht is the destination. Many guests don’t get off at some ports. A different island occasionally is nice, but it isn’t the point.”

—Diana Castillo, travel advisor

Back on board, we head to Marina Beach on deck 3, the yacht’s own “beach club” that gets lowered down to the water when we’re anchored, creating a little sea pool. But the swimming hole is closed due to high winds and waves, so we console ourselves with cocktails at the Balcony Bar — one of the ship's best vantage points.

Anchored off Sorrento for the last stop before Civitavecchia, I spend the day on a smaller boat, swimming in the Amalfi Coast’s crystal-clear waters. And the final morning as I prepare to disembark, I unexpectedly burst into tears as I bid goodbye to my suite ambassadors. “Maybe it's not too late to book another week?”

I always find a lesson in travel, even on frictionless trips. Here, that lesson is surrender — embracing idleness and reveling in the glamour of doing nothing. “Vacationing, not traveling.”

Sorry, friend, but I’m stealing your catchphrase.

Details

The Ritz-Carlton’s Luminara sails the Mediterranean for a few more weeks before repositioning later this year to new routes in Asia and Alaska. Rates from $8,100. Your travel advisor can plan a detailed itinerary with pre- and postcruise hotels and tours.

Sailing Lessons: (Top) The main pool, off the coast of Sorrento and (above) sailing past Taormina, Sicily at sunset.

JOY

OF EATING IN

THE SEOUL

WRITING: CHANEY KWAK

PHOTOGRAPHY: JASON MICHAEL LANG

Seoul, South Korea

Koreans have always understood that flavor requires patience. The culture teaches that wellworn earthenware vessels, for example, deepen the complexity of essential sauces. Kimchi performs underground alchemy for months on end. And rice wine makgeolli takes its sweet time before bubbling with exuberance. Out of such millennia-old traditions — and the country’s most demanding palates — emerges Seoul's restaurant scene. The city’s gastronomy is both a microcosm of Korea’s slow-food traditions and a fast-moving laboratory in which internationally trained chefs openly experiment. Seoul's time has come, and the wait was worth it.

Here’s how to dine and drink like a local in South Korea's capital, from its Michelin-starred temples to its must-visit street tents.

Matters of Taste (Opposite) Lobster tteokbokki at OUL bar, inside the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul and (this page) eaves of the main pagoda at Gyeongbokgung Palace.

THE FANCY TABLES

Globally informed yet seasonally anchored, Seoul's finedining scene channels a restless curiosity about onceforgotten local ingredients into tomorrow's possibilities. Among the city’s most sought-after tables right now is Onjium ( @onjium_restaurant ), which overlooks Gyeongbokgung Palace, with a kitchen that translates old royal recipes into modern creations — like pike eel grilled with finely minced beef — for no more than about 25 diners a night. Good luck. It might be slightly easier to get a table at the 40-seat, ultra-serene La Yeon ( shilla.net/seoul ), which sits atop The Shilla hotel with expansive views of the city; inside, chef Kim Sung-il speaks to the same tradition but with a different accent, serving 11- to 15-course tasting menus. Be on the look out for crispy grilled red mullet.

Netflix’s hit show Culinary Class Wars made chef Anh Sungjae a global celebrity, but when the show aired, his famous restaurant, Mosu ( mosuseoul.com ), which held three Michelin stars, had just closed. He reopened it this year — 60 seats, tasting menu only — and all of Seoul is abuzz about his acorn noodles with black truffles, abalone tacos and seaurchin-filled matcha tofu.

One of the toughest restaurants to get into — a mere 15-seat dining counter — is Soigné ( soignerestaurantgroup.com ), which tells stories through seasonal “episodes,” for which Per Setrained chef Jun Lee structures menus with a beginning, climax and resolution. The signature Seorae escargot is a whole narrative arc in one bite, bringing together native snails and roasted spinach atop a truffled egg custard.

And at the 25-seat seafood-and-plant-based Mingles ( restaurant-mingles.com ), the only restaurant in Seoul to currently display Michelin’s three-star plaque, chef Mingoo Kang puts his Nobu pedigree and fermentation training with Buddhist nun Jeong Kwan to good use, most notably with a dessert of three foundational jang (Korea’s fermented sauces): doenjang (bean paste) crème brûlée, soy-saucemarinated pecans and red-pepper-paste pastry.

Cafe Royale: (Top) Refined service at La Yeon and (above) the restaurant’s gujeolpan, or platter of nine dishes, from the dinner menu.

AN ULTRA-LUXE COCKTAIL SCENE

Charles H. at the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul has been leading the charge in the city's chichi cocktail scene for years. More recently, the hotel debuted another luxe bar, OUL ( fourseasons.com/seoul ), which is focused exclusively on Korean spirits in heritage drinks, such as garlic-butter vodka mules with candied ginseng, paired with snacks inspired by local street foods. The bar’s seasonal terrace extension on the 15th floor stays open through the end of October.

Even more cutting edge, the speakeasy-like Pine & Co ( pineandcoseoul.co.kr ) serves molecular creations like tequila-corn-milk cocktails topped with ants. And inside a glass-courtyard house that’s tucked into a shoulder-width alley, Gong Gan ( @gong_gan_anguk ) shakes up a mean gin drink made with mouth-puckering omija berries. If you’re someone who finds it hard to decide what to drink, head to the no-menu Cobbler ( facebook.com/BarCobbler ) and share a favorite flavor profile with your bartender, who will create on-the-spot bespoke drinks based on any desire.

At Zest ( @zest.seoul ), a zero-waste philosophy transforms citrus peels into house-distilled gin, which becomes a hallabong-and-carrot Garibaldi that captures Korean terroir in liquid form. Behind its secret door inside a flower shop, Alice Cheongdam ( @alice_cheongdam ) stages theatrical performances, for which cocktails arrive in elephantshaped glasses or smoke-filled wooden boxes. Meanwhile, the reservations-only Bar Cham ( @bar.cham ), inside a traditional hanok, serves a here-today, gone-tomorrow menu that has included wasabi shrub with Tokki soju and sesame oil, served in a slim glass shaped humorously like gimbap, a childhood picnic staple.

Power Bars: (Above) The swanky OUL lounge inside Four Seasons Hotel Seoul and (below) a round of cocktails at the hotel’s Charles H. bar.

THE K-PUB LIFE

Let’s keep it real: Koreans rarely drink without eating (and vice versa), and the tradition of anju — literally, “food that goes with alcohol" — lives on strong at sidewalk bars and celebrated upscale gastropubs alike. Good times. Among the latter, at casually chic Mr. Ahn's Craft Makgeolli ( @ahn.mak ), the milky namesake rice wine gets paired with elevated drinking food like marinated-tuna-belly sashimi and abalone with yuzu yogurt. At the speakeasy Doju ( @doju_official ), soju flows freely, paired with savory jeon pancakes and beef ribs. And at intimate Sanho ( @sanho_sinsa ), pub favorites like beef patties and raw shrimp and steamed clams accompany craft beers and premium oak-aged soju.

Cafe Society: (Above) Kale-wrapped mushrooms with sesame-oil powder, served over smoked pine leaves and (below) a staff meal before service at Mr. Ahn’s Craft Makgeolli.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“I definitely suggest hiring a local guide/translator because the language barrier is quite significant. Unless you are in a very touristy area, or at a high-end restaurant or luxury boutique, communication will be an issue. Also, a guide can help you navigate different parts of Seoul, each with its own character.”

—Jenny Hong, travel advisor

STREET SMARTS

For the ultimate anju nights, head to Jongno 3-ga and Euljiro 3-ga — two streets next to Exit 3 of the Jongno 3-ga subway station — a festive enclave where tattoo-sleeved Gen Zers drink well past dawn alongside middle-aged salarymen inside stalls and pocha (short for pojangmacha, the beloved pop-up bars tucked under plastic tarps on sidewalks). Here ice-cold soju flows freely alongside spicy, salty and savory street food. Pyeongando Jokbaljip is famous for its rich, glossy pig’s trotters and punchy, gochujang-laced fare. If you manage to locate a spot named Haeundae, order crackling, deep-fried shrimp. Or at Yeongsimi Pojangmacha, the chilled octopus with vinegary spicy sauce. Simply follow the raucous crowd, and when you spot something you like, find a stool.

Koreans rarely drink without eating, and the tradition of anju — literally, “food that goes with alcohol" — lives on strong...

This LIttle Piggy: A pork platter at jokbal specialist Pyeongando Jokbaljip.

This LIttle Piggy: A pork platter at jokbal specialist Pyeongando Jokbaljip.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“Koreans generally don't pour their own drinks. If someone dining with you pours your drink or tops up your glass, it's customary to then immediately do the same for them. And once food has been served, the eating doesn't start until the host invites everyone to enjoy or the elder at the table starts to eat.”

—J.H.

Bring on the Night: View from The Shilla, looking west over Myeong-dong.

AND BARBECUE, OF COURSE

A visit to Seoul would not be complete without K-bbq, and at a seemingly infinite number of grill restaurants, the formula is constant: raw prime beef or pork belly grilled over blazing coals, often wrapped in fresh leaves, with garlicky ssamjang. The team behind Michelin-starred Mingles has also opened the city's poshest grill, Born & Bred (bandb.co.kr), which boasts diamond-cut beef and dramatic presentations, including an omakase option at a new chef's counter. Ageold institution Samwon Garden (dinehill.co.kr/samwongarden), with its iconic landscaped waterfall, has hosted state dinners, and Gombawie (@gombawie) features vintage oilbarrel grills. The nose-to-tail Byeokje Galbi (thebyeokje.com) buys premium beef at auction and obsesses over its signature "snowflake" marbling. And, tucked into an atmospheric alleyway jam-packed with restaurants favored almost entirely by locals, the crowd favorite Kukbingwan (@kukbingwan_ official) provides a tranquil atmosphere wrapped around a bonsai courtyard inside a beautifully restored hanok.

Grill, Baby, Grill: (Clockwise from above left) Seasoned raw beef with egg at Kukbingwan, the never-ending banchan and a professionally tended grill at Kukbingwan.

It's most common for celebrations and family gatherings, but also worth considering for visitors seeking authentic culture. Descendants of the cooks who once served kings continue to preserve the traditional gastronomy in royal banquet settings. Inside the 500-year-old former residence of a prince, Philkyungjae ( philkyungjae.co.kr ) serves signature marinated-short-rib patties, kimchi-octopus consommé and seasonal mountain vegetables. And while the confines are much newer, Jihwaja ( jihwajafood.co.kr ) is considered Korea's first royal cuisine restaurant, known for its colorful, ninesectioned wooden vegetable trays. At the secret-garden-like Seokparang ( seokparang.co.kr ), the surasang, or royal table, features standout dishes like cod dumplings and seven-herb chicken. And, for a contemporary interpretation, Doore ( mmca.go.kr ) offers artfully plated but traditionally flavored multicourse meals inside the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art.

Seoul Sisters: Women wearing traditional hanbok at Gyeongbokgung Palace.

THE DOLLI’S ONE-OF-A-KIND VIEW OF THE CLASSICAL WORLD

where to stay

CONRAD SEOUL

At the nexus of South Korea’s financial and political epicenter, this 434-unit Yeouido tower offers sweeping Han River views from the always-bustling 37 Grill & Bar on the top floor. Plus: K-beauty treatments at The Belle Spa. $

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL

Ancient heritage mingles with international sophistication at this 317-room sanctuary, which offers royal palace views through floor-to-ceiling windows. Unwind in the gold-tiled jjimjilbang bath after exploring Gwanghwamun’s historic treasures. And thanks to Charles H. and OUL, it’s one of the city’s top destinations for cocktails. $$

GRAND HYATT SEOUL

Eighteen manicured acres cascade down Namsan’s slopes, creating an expansive, 616room urban retreat that includes waterfalls, tennis courts and a seasonal ice rink. Savor luxurious Korean teppanyaki at Teppan, in the hotel’s gourmet alley. $

HOTEL NARU SEOUL – MGALLERY

Championing famed Korean artists such as Haegue Yang, whose 32-foot installation floats above the lobby, this 196-room hotel on the Han River pays tribute to the city’s vibrant art scene. Catch truly stunning views from the Lounge & Deck bar. $$

PARK HYATT SEOUL

In the heart of the inexhaustible commercial hub of Gangnam, this 24-floor, 185-room hotel is a tranquil respite of minimalist design and infinity-edge soaking tubs. There’s a terrific Korean teahouse on the 24th floor. $

THE SHILLA SEOUL

Inspired by the elegant design motifs of its namesake dynasty, the hotel’s chic, 464-room tower features panoramic views, the fab, Michelin-starred La Yeon restaurant and the city’s first year-round rooftop pool. $

PICTURED

Your travel advisor can arrange a local guide and translator and can also secure extra perks, including resort credits and complimentary daily breakfast for two, at these Internova SELECT and CURATED hotels.

Sleep It Off (Top) The Presidential Suite living room at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul in Gwanghwamun and (above) The Shilla Seoul in the Jangchung-dong, Jung District.

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The

of Fresh Prince Tchoupitoulas Street

HOW THE NEXT GENERATION OF CULINARY ROYALTY IS REVIVING ONE OF AMERICA’S MOST FAMOUS RESTAURANTS.

New Orleans, Louisiana

“Would you come with me to the kitchen?” she asks.

I look up to see an anonymous young cook, surely no more than 19 years old, hovering over me as I sip a glass of French brut. It’s more of an instruction than a question.

“Bring the Champagne,” she adds. “Your first bite’s in the kitchen.”

I follow her into a darkened hallway, through a pair of swinging doors and into Emeril’s immaculate kitchen, where a brigade of at least 20 cooks — average age, I'm told: 25 — belts out a charming “Welcome!”

We shuffle to a small counter, where she points toward a single canapé the size of a gumball and announces, “New Orleans blue crab remoulade with finger lime and 180-dayaged caviar.” She waits.

I pop it into my mouth — fully aware the entire kitchen is watching — and swallow with all the manners of a proper rube. Tiny fireworks of lime explode against my tongue, followed by a commotion of saline. The crab comes on cold and sweet. Damn, I should have savored that more slowly, I think. Is that all there is? My eyes dart around the table, fruitlessly searching for another.

The anonymous cook clears her throat to refocus my attention, then proceeds to tell me about tonight’s menu: The oysters (displayed on ice in front of me) are from Maine, she explains, but almost everything else (also on display) comes from the city, the gulf or independent family farms in the region. There’ll be trout almondine and boudin sausage and veal daube glacé — essential flavors of New Orleans.

Southern Succession: (Opposite) E.J. Lagasse in the dining room of Emeril’s. (Above) Saucing the trout almondine at the table and (below) a bird’s-eye view of New Orleans and the Mississippi River from the Vue Orleans observation deck.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“When visiting New Orleans, Simon signs are a great souvenir. Simon Hardeveld is a local artist who makes colorful, witty signs seen in restaurants and homes all over the city. One of my favorites is ‘Beware of dogs and voodoo'."

—Jennifer Burck, travel advisor

Front-Row Seats: (Above) The redesigned dining room and glass-enclosed kitchen, pre-service, at Emeril’s. (Opposite) Flowers and fine linens on the tables, and E.J. Lagasse’s fresh take on the restaurant’s famous cheesecake.

I last dined here 15 years ago, and while my memory of that visit is fuzzy, I know this with clarity: This Emeril's is nothing like the Emeril’s of yore.

Emeril Lagasse — Louisiana’s (and perhaps television’s) most famous chef — stepped aside recently and handed the keys of his 35-year-old Tchoupitoulas Street institution to his only son, Emeril John “E.J.” Lagasse IV — who wasn’t even born when these doors opened in 1990. But for the artwork, it’s unrecognizable, a totally different restaurant.

Gone are the gigantic portions, loud flavors and rebel attitude — the famous “BAM!”

E.J. promptly threw out the old man's menus and introduced a Michelin-bait degustation that starts at seven courses, with truly inspired wine pairings from the 31,000-bottle cellar. The dining room, which was once filled with boisterous conventioneers, now feels serene, with plush carpets underfoot, crisp white linens on the tables, velvet chairs, new china, new everything — including membership in Relais & Châteaux and a jackets-for-gentlemen dress code. Servers don black suits and white gloves. The kitchen got rebuilt and framed in soundproof glass, a culinary theater outfitted with custom Molteni stoves. The cute young couple at a nearby

table has flown in from Japan for dinner (if I overheard them correctly), and they seem downright giddy.

Is a 22-year-old E.J. ready for this?

The answer begins trickling in as I swallow the first flurry of hors d'oeuvres: a tiny Vietnamese spring roll of chili-glazed pork — a nod to the city’s vibrant immigrant community. Alongside it: what the server calls a “blue-fin tuna sandwich.” But it’s less a sandwich than a deconstructed Japanese hand roll: The bread, if you will, is actually two house-made nori crackers. I look up to see a grinning face staring back at me, only to realize it’s my goofy reflection in the kitchen glass. I compose myself and reach for the daube glacé. It’s not the traditional Nawlins grandma version (a rich veal stew so thick with ham hock that it cools into an aspic) but rather a petite sphere that bursts with innuendos of andouille and horseradish.

Before I can blink, another wave swoops in, a menagerie even more gorgeous than the last. I quickly devour the onebite fried-oyster po’boy. Then a shot of gumbo — not what you’re thinking, but rather almost a consommé, its lightness and flavor impossibly authentic. Last up is a dime-sized croustade of barbecue shrimp — a dollhouse version of a recipe the elder Lagasse made famous.

Is a 22-year-old E.J. ready for this?

The answer begins trickling in as I swallow the first flurry of hors d'oeuvres...

“That was my baby food,” E.J. says. “Literally. My dad used to chop it up and spoon-feed it to me.” The Asianinspired prawn cracker he serves alongside it is new, but “if I close my eyes,” he says, “it still tastes exactly the same.”

Behold, or beware, the cornbread trolly. While E.J. miniaturizes and deconstructs most of his father’s — and the city’s — Cajun traditions, he has maximalized the bread service. The cart rolls up with the subtlety of a Rolls-Royce Phantom. A waiter plunks a massive loaf of steaming-hot cornbread on my table, then proceeds to carve a baseballsized scoop of butter from a 20-pound block. “You can never have too much,” he says, rather convincingly.

I’m wiping butter from my chin and brushing crumbs from my lap when the salmon cheesecake — another reinvention — arrives, this version an elfin slice of cheesy custard layered with salty, smoky fish and a pristine slather of caviar. With some ingenuity, it could be worn as jewelry. It tastes so… romantic.

E.J. got his first honorary chef’s coat when he was six months old. He started working in his father’s various kitchens in earnest at age 12 or 13, “doing real knife work and shadowing my dad and the others,” he says. He spent most of his teenage years after school on the line. For several years after culinary college, he worked through a succession of the world’s best kitchens, including Café Boulud and Le Bernardin in New York, Core in London and Frantzén in Stockholm. Somewhere along the way, he got the hairbrained idea to reinvent oyster stew.

Oyster stew is to New Orleans what creamy clam chowder is to New England. But how, exactly, does a chef serve something so decadent in a seven- or 10-course tasting menu without putting the customer under the table? His solution was to swap the classic roux for a light cream infused with sorrel and Herbsaint liqueur (the city’s version of absinthe, used to flavor Sazeracs), then add tapioca

Father of Invention: (Clockwise from left) E.J. Lagasse’s remake of New Orleans oyster stew, seared strip loin of beef, and a portrait of the restaurant’s patriarch on the wall in the bar.

Epicurean Expeditions by Atlas™ invites you to immerse yourself in Mediterranean cuisine and wine traditions. Explore with Gastronomic Guests and Visiting Vintners, including a local winemaker or sommelier. Enrich your knowledge with onboard wine tastings and cooking classes. Join fellow explorers on shore excursions exploring regional fl avors. From farmhouse pasta workshops in the Italian countryside to Paella feasts on the coast of Spain, it’s the perfect setting to experience the Mediterranean in new ways and connect with fellow adventurers.

ALWAYS INCLUDED BY ATLAS Expedition Guides + Enriching Experiences, Atlas Immersive Experience, Unlimited Wines + Spirits, L’OCCITANE Amenities, Gratuities and more

TO LEARN MORE, CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL ADVISOR.

pearls to lightly thicken it. Instead of bacon, he fattens it with seared duck liver. I fish my spoon into this “stew” of boba, and it comes back with the plumpest of oysters. It is wildly, incomprehensibly delicious. Far lesser dishes have launched chefs into stardom. It is instantly iconic. Modern. Unexpected. It’s the very essence of New Orleans, then and now. (Three months later, I’m still thinking about it.)

And the hits keep coming: ethereal boudin sausage and chicken-liver mousse, stunning trout almondine, forktender strip loin of domestic beef and a cloudlike take on banana cream pie — another rebellious rewrite of a onceuntouchable family recipe.

Asked and answered.

This isn’t merely the start of a new era for Emeril’s. It’s a new day for New Orleans — which was already having a moment. This is one of the most exciting restaurants in America right now.

Details:

Dinner from $225; wine pairings $175 to $800. À la carte snack menu from $15, served strictly at the adjacent wine bar. 800 Tchoupitoulas Street, emerilsrestaurant.com

Stay:

The nearby, 341-room Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans opened a few years ago in the 34-story former World Trade Center, towering over the city from the edge of the Mississippi River. Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks, including a $100 hotel credit and daily complimentary breakfast for two.

HOT TAKES W/ E.J. LAGASSE

Favorite places to eat in New Orleans? So many, but Saint-Germain, Acamaya, Dakar, Phở Tầu Bay and, of course, Commander’s Palace and Antoine’s...

Kitchens that inspired you most? César and Le Bernadin in New York and Smyth in Chicago.

Best time of year to be in New Orleans? Every minute of it, but especially the leadup to Mardi Gras and the end of Jazz Fest.

Crawfish or blue crabs? Crawfish, hands down.

Dream vacation?

Portugal, because of my family’s history there — and also because we just opened a Portuguese restaurant here in New Orleans.

Deconstruction Zone: (Above) The warehouse district of New Orleans, home to Emeril’s since 1990 and (top) a reimagined banana cream pie.

From vineyard kitchens to seaside terraces, Italy invites you to taste life at its finest. Villas of Distinction curates private villas where dining becomes a celebration that brings you closer to la dolce vita.

Contact your travel advisor today.

IN THE A PLACE SUN

WRITING: MARIA C. HUNT

PHOTOGRAPHY: TANVEER BADAL

HOW A LITTLE PIECE OF FRANCE IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA PLANTED THE SEED FOR AN ETHOS OF PAMPERING THAT CHANGED NAPA VALLEY FOREVER.

Rutherford, California

After his restaurant L’Étoile became a white-hot hit with San Francisco’s high society in the late 1970s, Claude Rouas decided to treat himself with the spoils. He bought a condo, a weekend escape, in the nascent Napa Valley. But wine country became more than just a hideaway for the restless Frenchman. Inspired by his surroundings, he had a vision: What if he opened an inn and restaurant, encircled by vineyards, evoking the sun-drenched villages of the Côte d’Azur. After all, the two locales share the same Mediterranean climate. He soon found the perfect plot: a former olive orchard that would give him room

to grow. And with the help of business partner Bob Harmon, the restaurant opened in 1981. They dubbed it Auberge du Soleil. It took another five years to add a few rooms, but it was worth the wait. The auberge instantly became a model of carefree indulgence and accelerated the trajectory of hospitality in the region. The late visionary’s daughter, Bettina Rouas, says her father’s secret sauce — whether in the restaurant or at the inn — was his knack for creating “a luxurious experience, so you’re feeling pampered and taken care of, and you’re feeling swept away from your normal day-to-day world.”

King of the Hill: (Above) Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley. (Opposite) The Restaurant at Auberge du Soleil, where it all began, and an heirloom-tomato risotto with wild shrimp, bacon and yuzu.

Perhaps that’s why I overhear a spa guest saying, “This is our third visit in six months.” Surrounded by dark-green forest on Rutherford Hill, the golden buildings of Auberge du Soleil now resemble an enchanted village. And with just 50 rooms, staying here feels like moving into an exclusive enclave for a few nights.

Accommodations are named for the likes of Arles, Biarritz and Menton. A couple of tony, two-bedroom maisons are named for Monaco and Cannes. Their dining rooms offer stunning, 180-degree views, but the best feature might be the white slipper tubs on the terrace. My one-bedroom suite feels like a richly furnished home, inside of which my thoughtful host has left three ripe nectarines so fragrant, I can’t help but take a juicy bite. And there’s a bottle of Auberge rosé chilling in the under-counter refrigerator. They know me so well.

Sunlight streams through the floor-to-ceiling steel-frame windows, illuminating the subtle mix of patterned neutral tones, from pale cerused oak to the carpet that resembles handwoven sisal. Suzanne Tucker of Tucker & Marks Design created the calm, inviting and timeless decor. Subtle cues, from the sand-cast lamp base to the fossilized nautilus shell and the espadrille-stripe pillows, recall trips to the South of France. The lacy fretwork behind the bed, the black-and-white photo of Bandol rosé in the bath and the olive-oil soap underscore the effect. Slipping into the grand soaking tub is tempting, but the sun is shining, and the allure of the outdoors is irresistible.

Surrounded by dark-green forest on Rutherford Hill, the golden buildings of Auberge du Soleil now resemble an enchanted village.

The expansive terraces feel secluded, like no one else has this view of olive groves, pines and the Mayacamas Mountains. Beyond the room, a private adventure unfolds as I follow the property’s winding trails and explore the sculpture gardens. The grounds seem to go on forever, with an infinite number of spots for a beautifully curated picnic. The tennis courts are screened by ivy. Auberge is perfect for intimate tête-à-têtes, like the splitsecond but rather public one I chance to witness between a gentleman and a striking brunette in a tomato-red dress on the terrace outside the Mainhouse reception. Encountering other guests outside of the restaurant here is quite rare; you’re more likely to meet a lizard warming its iridescent green scales in the afternoon sun or hear calls of birds hiding in the mature olive, magnolia, fig, and crape myrtle trees.

If you’re seeking conversation, join a morning yoga class at La Pagode, or head to the sauna or the series of hot, warm and cold pools outside the spa. The lovely symmetry of the fountains and olive trees in the spa’s courtyard inspires me to do some plein air painting — seriously — and a guest in a robe confesses he’s almost jealous. But anyone can channel their inner Pissarro; the reception desk lends portable DJAR easels equipped with canvases, brushes and paints. As I study the contours of distant Mt. Veeder and redwoods, the soothing trickle of the fountain is only interrupted by the whimpers and groans of guests braving the 45-degree cold plunge.

“My favorite room category is the Deluxe Valley View Suite, with a large dining terrace and sun loungers to enjoy the views. Also: The hotel has a partnership with MercedesBenz, with cars available on a first-come basis (at no charge) for guests."

—Jesse Katz, travel advisor

For a quieter aquatic experience, stroll over to La Plage for a dip in the salty, azure pool, or perfect your Saint-Tropez tan on a sun-warmed chaise. Feeling peckish? Ask a waiter in a striped Breton sailor shirt for the menu.

Since one cannot live on rosé and summer fruit alone, repair to The Restaurant for dinner. After all, this is where the whole of Auberge began. Claude Rouas always kept a close eye on the kitchen, the heart of the experience. And it remains so (although, if you’re seeking novel flavors, make time for a visit to nearby sister property Stanly Ranch and its restaurant, Bear). The Restaurant at Auberge remains a bastion of laidback French Mediterranean cuisine, earning 18 consecutive Michelin stars for such dishes as an exceptional Liberty Farms duck duo, a succulent lamb loin with zucchini, black olives and squash blossom, and an octopus carpaccio with yuzu kosho, chorizo and fennel. The menu is well-matched by an extensive, 15,000-bottle wine cellar — the largest in the valley. Our dinner selections take us through Champagne, Burgundy, Napa Valley and Bordeaux as Dusty Springfield, Brigitte Bardot and Frank Sinatra croon in the background.

After dinner, stop by the Mainhouse and pour yourself a Pernod, Cognac or Johnnie Walker Black. It’s not merely offered. It’s encouraged. The hosts here are quite generous.

Auberge du Soleil, an Auberge Resort

Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks, including a $100 spa credit as well as complimentary daily breakfast for two. $$$$

In Good Hands: (Clockwise from above) Chef Robert Curry, seared yellowfin tuna and the view from The Restaurant’s terrace.

More than a cruise — it’s a culinary experience

The all-new Star Princess®, along with her sister ship Sun Princess®, are gourmet destinations at sea. With 30 restaurants and bars to choose from, there’s a flavor for every taste. Among the many dining experiences waiting to be discovered, indulge at The Butcher’s Block by Dario, with signature cuts of beef curated by renowned Chef Cecchini, served alongside comforting, family-style sides. Art lovers will rejoice in Love by Britto, a boutique restaurant that pairs Romero Britto’s joyful décor with visually stunning dishes that taste as good as they look. Seafood lovers will find their paradise at The Catch by Rudi, where the ocean’s bounty is transformed into everything from bisques to broils. Step into Umai Teppanyaki, where fire, flavor and flair come together in a sizzling show that delights the senses. Guest favorites, like Crown Grill SM steakhouse and Sabatini’s SM Italian Trattoria, have been reimagined, making them better than ever. On Star Princess and Sun Princess, dining isn’t just about the food, it’s about savoring the journey.

Contact a travel professional for additional information.

©2025, Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. Princess®, MedallionClass® and the Princess logos are trademarks of Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. or its affiliates.

Bermuda and United Kingdom.

THE OLTRE with

Q&A PICHAYA

SOONTORNYANAKIJ

WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY: MARINA SPIRONETTI

Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij is one of the most remarkable voices in contemporary Asian gastronomy today. Known around the world simply as “Chef Pam,” she was the first Thai woman to earn a Michelin star. She received a rare three-knives distinction from the global Best Chef Awards. She’s a beloved judge on Thailand’s Top Chef and Iron Chef . And at this year’s 50 Best Restaurants awards gala, she reached her greatest triumph yet: the title of World’s Best Female Chef, climbing 44 spots to No. 13 in the overall global ranking for POTONG.

In Bangkok’s bustling Chinatown, POTONG occupies the 120-year-old building that once housed her family’s traditional Chinese pharmacy — a “living museum” where legacy, culture and cuisine meet with a progressive Thai-Chinese menu. For Soontornyanakij, this is the essence of true luxury: “something only time can create.” A small card attached to the menu distills her worldview: “All of us seek happiness. Within these walls, I’ve found mine — and I’m ready to share it with anyone who steps inside.”

How many passports do you have?

Two, both from Thailand. I travel so much, having a second helps when I need a visa and have to wait for processing.

Earliest memory of travel?

Skiing with my family in Italy!

Do you wear sweatpants on airplanes?

Always.

How many days before a trip do you start packing?

Zero. I pack the day I leave.

Favorite hotel?

Four Seasons Bangkok.

Bangkok in one bite?

A spoonful of spicy papaya salad with salty crab — while sitting on a plastic stool by the roadside — chaos, heat, sour, salty, sweet.

A dish from POTONG you could eat forever?

The duck. Always the duck.

Best country for food?

Thailand, of course. But also Japan; from the humblest bowl of ramen to the most intricate kaiseki, it’s endlessly inspiring.

Favorite souvenir?

A wheel of raw-milk cheese from a tiny market in Italy. I spent weeks imagining how I might use it.

First thing you eat after landing back home?

Tom yum noodles at Rung Rueang.

Made in Chinatown: Chef Pam in the doorway of her Bangkok restaurant, POTONG.

FALL 2025: THE TASTE ISSUE

DESTINATION GUIDE: DRINKING AND EATING LIKE THE LOCALS IN SEOUL WHERE TO EAT NEXT: OUR FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANTS AROUND THE WORLD TRAINED TO THRILL: RAIL TRAVEL IN ITALY GOES WHERE IT’S NEVER BEEN BEFORE AN ICON REBORN: HOW NEW ORLEANS’ MOST FAMOUS KITCHEN GOT ITS GROOVE BACK EMPIRE OF THE SUN: THE WINE-COUNTRY AUBERGE THAT BECAME A GLOBAL BRAND PLUS: MANHATTAN’S SEXIEST BAR, SHOPPING AT NOMA AND OUR DJ-CURATED PLAYLIST