Kivalliq Visitors Guide 18

ACCOMMODATIONS I DINING I EVENTS I MAP

Kivalliq VISITORS GUIDE

2018

FISHING I DOGSLEDDING I WATER RECREATION

Michelle Valberg / Nunavut Tourism

CONTENTS

04 Welcome to Kivalliq 06 Kivalliq Quick Facts 07 Staying Here 09 Climate 11 Country Foods 12 Arts & Crafts 13 Unforgettable Adventure

15 17 19 21 32 34

Flora Hunting & Fishing Fauna Community Profiles Visitor Information Calendar of Events

Cover Photo - Michelle Valberg / Nunavut Tourism, Christian Kimber / Nunavut Tourism, Noel Kaludjak Published By Northern News Services Box 2820, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2R1 Ph: 867-873-4031 Fax: 867-873-8507 www.nnsl.com

Visit us online at: www.nnsl.com/visitor-guides Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 3

Welcome >

to Nunavut’s Kivalliq Region

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elcome to an ancient land, where the culture can be traced back to about 500 BC – a place where wildlife outnumbers people and adventure knows no limits. Each of the region’s seven communities can offer you a unique experience, and you’ll find the stark beauty of the immense landscape is matched by the warmth of the people who live here. You’ll go back in time as you visit ancient archeological sites and witness grizzly bears, muskoxen, and polar bears roaming freely.

The region encompasses the western shore of Hudson Bay and both Southampton and Coats Islands, and has a typical Arctic climate with long, dark winters and short, cool summers. Most of the communities in the Kivalliq are located below the Arctic Circle, meaning the light cycle here is less drastic than in the rest of Nunavut.

The summers may be short, but they are spectacular. The tundra explodes with colour as millions of tiny wildflowers bloom under 20 hours of sunlight a day in June and July. These flowers saturate the land and attract an assortment of bumblebees and butterflies. Freshwater streams teem with Arctic char and trout, whilst whales, seals and walrus inhabit the saltwater depths of Hudson Bay. Meanwhile, foxes, wolves, and polar bear travel the tundra in search of food.

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Photo Courtesy of Noel Kaludjak

Adventurers can paddle world-class rivers and camp in some of the most remote areas left on the planet. If you’re looking for a tamer experience, try a quick walk around any of the communities. You can listen to residents speak Inuktitut, watch women carry their children in traditional parkas called amauti, gaze at the northern lights or taste some of the traditional food.

Although you may feel as if you’ve stepped back in time, you can stay connected to the present with full Internet and telephone services in all seven communities.

Regardless of when you visit, or how long you stay, the Kivalliq region guarantees a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 5

Kivalliq Quick Facts of all the provinces and territories in Canada, with a total area of 2,093,190 square kilometres (808,190 square miles) and a population of approximately 36,000 people – that’s about one person for every 60 square kilometres (25 square miles)!

3. Population of the Kivalliq Region (2016 Census): 10,413.

9. There are more than eight protected areas

within the boundaries of the Kivalliq region.

10. Nunavut separated from the Northwest

Territories to become its own territory in 1999. Nunavut Day, celebrated on July 9, commemorates the event!

11. The most northerly farm in Canada once

called Rankin Inlet home when a local resident in the 1960s tried to raise pigs and chickens.

Photo Courtesy of Noel Kaludjak

1. Nunavut means “our land” in Inuktitut.

2. Nunavut is the largest, yet least populated,

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4. The regional capital of Kivalliq is Rankin Inlet.

5. In Inuktitut, “Inuit” is plural and refers to more

12. A Hudson Bay post was opened near Repulse

6. Two of Nunavut’s most famous artists – Susan

began to occur regularly by the late 17th century.

than one person, while “inuk” is singular.

Aglukark and Charlie Panigoniak – were born and raised in the Kivalliq region.

7. The world’s highest rate of post-glacial rebound is happening in the Kivalliq region.

8. Nunavut can only be accessed by air and sea.

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Bay in 1916.

13. Contact with Europeans in the Kivalliq region 14. 1902-03, all of the Sallirmiut Inuit who

inhabited Southampton Island died of typhus introduced by a Scottish whaler. The Sallirmiut had lived on the island from about 500 BC.

Staying here > N

unavut is a beautiful, intriguing territory that is different in many ways from the rest of Canada.

There are a few things visitors should note.

A larger community such as Rankin Inlet has several restaurants and hotels to choose from, but smaller communities often only have one hotel. These hotels typically don’t have full service restaurants but serve meals at specific times of the day. These meals are often limited, so be sure to plan ahead if you have allergies or dietary restrictions, and let hotel staff know if you’ll be away during meal times.

Most hotels will have staff available to pick you up from the airport, but call ahead to confirm. Otherwise, taxi services are usually available and are a great way to tour the community when you arrive. Taxi companies charge a flat rate between $6 and $15, depending on your destination, and you should be prepared to share your cab with other passengers picked up along the way!

Iqaluit is the only community in Nunavut with a beer and wine store, and where alcohol is sold in bars and restaurants. All other communities use a three-tiered system to regulate its sale and consumption.

Be sure to ask your hotel manager about which tier the community you’re in falls under.

Photo Courtesy of Doug McLarty

TAXI ETIQUETTE Being the first passenger doesn’t necessarily mean that you’ll be the first one dropped off, and you can expect to make several detours before reaching your destination. It’s also a good idea to offer your seat to any elders if you’re sitting in the front!

Prohibited: It is illegal to import, sell or consume alcohol in this community.

Restricted: Alcohol for personal consumption that is approved by the community’s Alcohol Education Committee may be flown in with a valid permit.

Unrestricted: Alcohol for personal consumption can be brought into the community with a valid permit.

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 7

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CLIMATE T

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he Kivalliq region is set in a polar tundra climate, and due to its vastness the weather can vary widely from place to place. The summers are short with long, sunny days, while the winters are long with short, cold days. The weather here is always unpredictable, with summer temperatures ranging from 2°C or colder to warmer than 20°C. It’s not unusual to see snowfall in June and rain and fog can appear at any time. The average winter temperature in Rankin Inlet is -32°C and the average temperature in July is 10°C. Be sure to bring a warm, waterproof jacket on any trips out onto the land, as well as a hat, mittens, something to cover your face, waterproof winter boots and layers underneath. Even in July, temperatures outside of town are much cooler and often windy, so plan your clothing accordingly. Never underestimate the Arctic wind.

Mosquitoes thrive around the thousands of lakes and ponds that dot the Kivalliq landscape, so a mosquito jacket and repellent are necessary investments. Try to pack your own, since local stores run out of these items quickly.

Photo Courtesy of Doug McLarty

Boots rated to at least -50°C and a parka with a furtrimmed hood is essential for trips on the land. Neck warmers or scarves alone are no match for the extreme Arctic cold, so be sure the fur on your parka is authentic to keep your face warm. Wear mittens rather than gloves – your hands will be warmer since they keep the fingers together.

Always remember that you might be staying in a community longer than you planned! With the exception of Baker Lake, all of Kivalliq’s communities are on the coast, which can mean fog in the spring and summer that could prevent planes from taking off or landing. In winter, blizzards and high winds can delay and cancel flights in and out of all communities.

WHAT SHOULD I WEAR? Pack these basics to make sure you’re prepared for any type of weather: • thermal underwear • t-shirts and undershirts

In the winter, you can expect blizzards that can last for days, as well as extremely cold temperatures that can cause delays for travellers. The region’s flat landscape and lack of trees means there is nothing to block the wind, creating extreme wind chill conditions. Always make sure to pay attention to weather forecasts that include wind chill warnings. A -30°C temperature can easily feel like -50°C with the wind.

• long-sleeved shirts

Keep in mind the type of trip you’re taking when you pack. Will you be staying in the community? Clothing rated to -25°C is fine for business travellers who plan on staying within town limits, but if you plan on taking a snowmobile or dogsled ride, you will need clothing that is the warmest you can find.

• rain coat and waterproof pants

• sweaters • jeans or long pants • regular and thick wool socks • hiking boots and warmer boots for trips on the land • toque or winter hat • two pairs of mitts (one for extreme cold and another for milder weather) Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 9

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COUNTRY FOODS

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Lee Narraway / Nunavut Tourism

or centuries the Inuit have depended on “country foods” for their survival.

The food may seem strange to the uninitiated, but tasting the flavours of the Kivalliq region is a once-in-alifetime culinary experience that should not be missed.

Why not explore caribou stew, muskox, Arctic char, turbot, whale skin or seal while you’re here?

Caribou and Arctic char from the Kivalliq are prized throughout Nunavut, and Naujaat in particular is home to fish renowned for their flavour. Caribou and char can sometimes be found on hotel and restaurant menus, but their availability can vary depending on the year and season.

A community feast is the place to try local delicacies, so make sure to drop by if one happens during your visit. Feasts usually take place in community halls or arenas and food is typically spread out on cardboard on the floor. Meat is traditionally eaten frozen and raw, but if that sounds too adventurous, feasts will typically include some cooked items, such as caribou stew and bannock.

Caribou can be served in a variety of ways, including frozen, roasted, fried or stewed. Aged walrus, known as igunaaq, is available sometimes, but the taste is quite strong to those unfamiliar with it. Mussels, clams and bird’s eggs are a rare treat.

Traditional foods, such as whale skin, Arctic char and caribou, are often dried. Brined, smoked and then dried char is called pipsi, and candied char belly and char sticks are all popular ways to try this favourite fish.

Dried caribou, called mikku, is a traditional staple, and dried whale skin is called maktaaq.

Ask hotel staff for a contact within the community who might be willing to sell or share meat or fish, and try some of the unique flavours the Kivalliq region calls their own.

Photo Courtesy of Noel Kaludjak

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Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 11

WORLD FAMOUS ARTISTS

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he Kivalliq region is home to many Inuit artists who are known throughout the world for their unique works of art. It reflects the respect they have for the land, the sea, the animals, the plants and the forces of nature, all inspired by family and culture. Carvings in stone, ivory, antler and bone. Distinctive stone cut prints. Caribou skin clothing. Wall hangings. Jewelry incorporating indigenous gemstones. The selection of both traditional and contemporary works of art is large and impressive.

Baker Lake is renowned for its printmaking studios, while those looking for carvings and jewelry should begin their search in Rankin Inlet. The town is home to talented carvers and is the only community producing Inuit fine-arts ceramics in the world. Be sure to visit the unique Matchbox Gallery, in operation since the 1980s. Visitors to the gallery will find a wide range of artistic works in all media, with ceramics being the highlight. As it is also a production and training centre, you can watch as local artists create one of a kind pieces.

April Hudson/NNSL photo

ARTS & CRAFTS

Walrus ivory is a common medium for small pieces of jewelry, and you can purchase or commission larger soapstone carvings for something more unique. If you don’t have anything particular in mind, keep an eye out for smaller souvenirs, such as sealskin hair clips or zipper pulls. These items are small and easy to pack.

You can find artist co-operatives and charming, locally run galleries in most of the communities, and artists will also sell their pieces directly to buyers themselves by visiting hotels and restaurants while tourists are in town. Bartering is normal, but please be fair, since for many artists this is their livelihood and a means to support their families.

The Jessie Oonark Arts and Crafts Centre in Baker Lake offers a wide variety of arts and crafts by local artisans, including carvings, prints, jewelry, clothing and appliquéd tapestries in the unique Baker Lake style.

The Pangnakit facility, also in Baker Lake, produces handmade clothing, footwear and tools. The Inuit Heritage Centre of Baker Lake records oral histories recited by Elders, teaches traditional culture and way of life to Inuit youth, and showcases a large collection of art and historical artifacts, including special displays on loan from other museums.

Arviat has strong musical roots and traditions.

It is the home of renowned Inuit performers Charlie Panigoniak and Susan Aglukark. For 10 days in October, Arviat hosts the Inuumariit Music Festival.

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UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURE

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Lee Narraway / Nunavut Tourism

YOURS TO DISCOVER

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his is nature as few have experienced it – raw, untouched, untamed and stunningly beautiful.

More than 440,000 square kilometres of tundra vegetation, low-lying wetlands, broad, sloping bedrock and plentiful lakes and islands. It’s little wonder that the Kivalliq region lures hikers, campers, paddlers, artists, birdwatchers, and photographers to its northern Arctic, southern Arctic and taiga shield landscapes.

CAMP THE WILDERNESS

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ou won’t find crowded, powered camp sites here – no hot showers and no convenience stores. This is where you’ll discover true camping – a vast wilderness that you can claim as your own, finding peace on the land under an immense Arctic sky.

Some communities, including Rankin Inlet, have campsites on the outskirts of town that may include outhouses, windbreaks and barbeque pits, but visitors should always be prepared for rugged conditions.

Bring warm clothing and layers at all times of the year, including a heavy duty sleeping bag. Tents and other equipment must be capable of withstanding the tundra’s notorious wind. Be sure to take heed of polar bear warnings in the area you’re visiting, and avoid camping in locations where bears have been recently spotted.

Call the local hamlet offices for advice and recommendations before heading onto the land. If you are venturing beyond community outskirts, hiring an experienced guide or outfitter is highly recommended.

CANOE THE THELON HERITAGE RIVER

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oyage back in time by paddling the Thelon Heritage River, a bucket list item for avid paddlers, it’s the largest river in Canada flowing into Hudson’s Bay. You’ll glide past herds of grazing muskoxen, through boreal forest valleys and across the barrens, while bald eagles, peregrine falcons, and Canada geese soar overhead. If good fortune is on your side, you’ll spot barren land grizzly bears, wolverines, moose, and Arctic wolves. Every year the Beverly caribou herd crosses the Thelon during their annual migration.

The midnight sun means that your adventure doesn’t have to stop when the evening arrives. History buffs will relish the opportunity to explore ancient kayak stands, graves, and other Inuit and Dene archaeological sites that dot the river banks.

The river begins in the Northwest Territories east of Great Slave Lake, north of the Saskatchewan border.

The waters of the river collect and flow northeasterly for 900 kilometres through the Kivalliq, eventually feeding into Baker Lake, draining through Chesterfield Inlet, and finally into Hudson Bay. This 142,400 square kilometre river is the largest drainage basin emptying into Hudson Bay. Your journey on the Thelon River begins in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, where a charter plane will bring you to your starting point. Trips typically take about two weeks and end near Baker Lake. This adventure is recommended for medium to expert level canoeists.

Whatever your experience level, be sure to leave your travel itinerary with a responsible body, such as the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP), the park wardens, or the local search and rescue group in the nearest community.

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 13

FLORA

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Photo Courtesy of Doug McLarty

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n Arctic summer is always a most beautiful surprise.

You look across the expanse of tundra and barren land, made up of so much sand, gravel, bedrock and scrub vegetation. It has its own inherent beauty, but one often wonders, how can this monochromatic permafrost turn into nature’s colourful garden? Long hours of summer sunlight are a good start.

Millions of tiny wildflowers explode into life almost as soon as daylight returns to the tundra and the snow has finally melted. The first of these is purple saxifrage, Nunavut’s territorial flower and one of the earliest flowering plants in the Arctic. It’s a low-lying perennial with lilac or magenta star-shaped flowers and tiny, overlapping gray-green leaves.

Soon after, dwarf fireweed, another perennial recognized by its distinct purple flowers, takes over the landscape. These flowers grow virtually everywhere and are the largest flowers of any Arctic flowering plant. White and yellow Arctic poppies, with their long leaves and cup-shaped flowers, turn their blossoms to follow the sun’s path across the sky, and bright yellow buttercups are found almost everywhere.

While the Kivalliq region is wholly above the treeline, several species of resilient Arctic willow and dwarf birch still manage to grow here. These tiny trees can take thousands of years to grow due to the very short growing season. Arctic cotton is another recognizable plant, its feathery white tufts blowing effortlessly in the Arctic wind. They can be found dotting the shorelines of the many lakes and ponds scattered across the tundra. This plant was extremely important to nomadic Inuit, who used the white tufts as clothing insulation and wicks for soapstone lamps.

The Labrador tea plant is a low evergreen shrub with leathery leaves and small white flowers that grow in white clusters. This plant has long been boiled into medicinal herbal tea.

Some plants produce a profusion of berries in the later parts of the growing season. Arctic blueberries and cloudberries, called aqpik, can be found over large areas. Berry picking is still a popular activity and the fruit is often used to make jams and pies.

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 15

Lee Narraway / Nunavut Tourism

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FISHING & HUNTING T

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he Kivalliq region has more than 440,000 square kilometres of land for hunters and plenty of freshwater and saltwater fishing spots that range from quiet bays to flowing rivers. It’s an adventure like no other.

ON THE WATER

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he Inuit of the region traditionally fished using their hands, harpoons and spears. Nets were woven from animal sinew or leather, and lures were crafted from bone, shell and antler.

These days most anglers either spin cast, fly fish or ice fish, depending on the location, season and type of fish.

The most popular fish in the North is the mouthwatering Arctic char, a relative of the salmon. They are known for their fighting spirit, delicious taste and distinct orange flesh. Char can easily weigh over nine kilograms.

Ocean char are born in fresh water, where they return for spawning, so it’s best to catch them during their migration. Landlocked Arctic char are found in lakes that were once connected to the ocean, and these fish are caught year-round.

Lake trout are another popular catch. They are actually a species of freshwater char that can reach the 22 kilogram range. They are found in rivers and lakes and are feisty on the hook.

Many anglers salivate over the thought of a fresh grilled Arctic grayling. They are a smaller, freshwater fish, only weighing up to one kilogram. You’ll recognize a grayling by its large, sail-like dorsal fin.

NOTE: A Nunavut sport fishing licence is mandatory for non-Inuit, and can be easily obtained at a local wildlife office.

ON THE LAND

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erds of caribou and muskoxen roam the tundra and polar bears prowl the sea ice for seals.

While the animals are plentiful, hunting in Nunavut takes advanced planning and can be limited if you’re here for a short visit.

For information on hunting contact: Government of Nunavut, Department of Environment Tel: 867-975-7700 Email: environment@gov.nu.ca Website: gov.nu.ca/environment

Michelle Valberg / Nunavut Tourism

KIVALLIQ WILDLIFE OFFICES Kivalliq Regional Office (Arviat) 867-857-2976 Baker Lake District Office 867-793-2944 Chesterfield Inlet District Office 867-898-9130 Coral Harbour District Office 867-925-8823 Naujaat District Office 867-462-4002 Rankin Inlet District Office 867-645-8083 Whale Cove District Office 867-896-9187

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 17

FAUNA

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Michelle Valberg / Nunavut Tourism

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he Kivalliq region is home to a variety of animals, including polar bears, muskoxen, and herds of caribou. Caribou in particular have long been an important source of food and clothing for Inuit, and those who lived in this region were known as the Caribou Inuit for the animal’s importance to their survival. Huge numbers of caribou migrate through the region every year, and hunters still eagerly take part in the hunt.

Another species that migrates through the region is the polar bear, which travels south in the spring to deliver their young in northern Manitoba, before heading back when the sea ice in Hudson Bay is frozen again in the fall.

The Thelon Wildlife Sanctuary, accessible from Baker Lake, is truly a place frozen in time. Here, muskoxen still roam the same way they have since the last Ice Age. Ground squirrels, called siksik, are also plentiful in the region, where you’re guaranteed to hear the chirping noise that forms the basis of their name as they scamper across the tundra.

Out on the waters of Hudson Bay, you’ll see ringed seals, harp seals, bearded seals, walrus, beluga, and bowhead whales, while the rivers and lakes teem with Arctic char, grayling, and trout. The Kivalliq is also a dream for birdwatchers, who can expect to find peregrine falcons, gyrfalcons, and the endangered whooping crane.

POLAR BEAR WARNING Polar bears are dangerous animals and should be treated with respect. These bears migrate and hunt throughout the Kivalliq region and may enter communities looking for food.

Keep your distance and never approach a bear.

Attacks don’t happen often, but these animals have been known to attack humans.

Make sure you listen to and stick close to your guide when traveling on the land.

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 19

PRINCE PATRICK ISLAND

AXEL HEIBERG ISLAND

■ K itikmeot/Qitirmiut Region ■ Q ikiqtaaluk Region ■ K ivalliq Region

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Cambridge Bay

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BATHURST ISLAND

Taloyoak

Queen Maud Gulf

Gjoa Haven

Kugaaruk

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Iglulik Hall Beach

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Bathurst Inlet

Naujaat (Repulse Bay)

Baker Lake Chesterfield Inlet Rankin Inlet

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Cape Dorset

Coral Harbour

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SOUTHAMPTON I S L A N D Eva ns Stra it it Stra r e Fish

Hudson Strait

Whale Cove Arviat

Hudson Bay

Quebec

Sanikiluaq

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Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2016 James Bay

COMMUNITY PROFILES

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ARVIAT ᐊᕐᕕᐊᑦ “place of the bowhead whale” Population: 2,657

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You can find ancient kayak stands, tent rings, and other archaeological sites just outside the city, including the islands Arvia’juaq, meaning “big bowhead” in Inuktitut, and Qikiqtaarjuk, which means “little island.” Both became designated Canadian National Historic Sites in 1995.

Arviat sits on top of Canada’s polar bear migration path, and bears are frequently seen near the community. Although it may be tempting to get a photo of this majestic animal, never approach a bear.

For bird lovers, the McConnell River Migratory Bird Sanctuary is just a short walk away. You’ll find swans, geese, peregrine falcons, and Arctic terns all making their homes here for the summer.

Visit Kiluk, on the main road to the airport, to pick up some one-of-a-kind artwork from some of Nunavut’s many artists. Arviat is known for bone and soapstone carvings, and several residents create art as their livelihoods. The hamlet is also the hometown of Juno award-winning Inuk musician Susan Aglukark.

The Margaret Aniksak Visitors Centre is the place to begin your adventure in Arviat. Here, you’ll find interpretive exhibits, historic artifacts from Arvia’juaq, and general information about the community. Guided tours can be arranged to go out on the land and experience the sights and sounds of the tundra, and outfitters can be hired for sport hunting, fishing, or a dogsledding trip.

Michelle Valberg / Nunavut Tourism

ormerly known as Eskimo Point, Arviat is located less than an hour’s flight from Churchill, Manitoba, and is one of Nunavut’s most easily accessed communities. Pallirmiut Inuit used this area as a summer camping spot for generations, and the town maintains this traditional way of life today.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE: Margaret Anisak Visitors Centre 867-857-2366 Arviat Tourism Office 867-857-2921 Hamlet Office 867-857-2841 Bayside Inn 867-857-2653 Katimavik Suites & Beach House 867-857-2752 www.katimaviksuites.com Padlei Inn (Inns North) 867-857-2919 / 1-888-866-6784 www.innsnorth.com Jeannie’s Place Bed & Breakfast 867-857-2906 Banks: None, but ATMs can be found at the Northern Store and the Padlei Co-Op. Alcohol Restrictions: Arviat is a prohibited community, which means no alcohol is permitted. www.arviat.ca Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 21

COMMUNITY PROFILES CONTINUED BAKER LAKE ᖃᒪᓂᑦᑐᐊᖅ Qamani’tuaq - “where the river widens” Population: 2,069

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he only inland community in Nunavut and the geographical centre of Canada, Baker Lake is an interesting and unique place to visit. Located at the mouth of the Thelon Heritage River, the community is often visited by paddlers looking for a one-of-akind adventure. You can also find the Kazan Heritage River nearby.

Inuit have hunted and fished in this area for generations, and many still do today. The Ihalmiut is one of the several Inuit groups still living in the Baker Lake area, and you can read their story in the books People of the Deer and The Desperate People, written by famous Canadian author Farley Mowat.

Be sure to make time to visit the Thelon Wildlife Sanctuary, Canada’s largest wildlife protection area. The sanctuary encompasses 52,000 square kilometres and sits halfway between Baker Lake and Yellowknife, NT. Here, you’ll find herds of muskoxen, Arctic wolves, caribou, grizzly bears, and even moose. The best way to experience this pristine Arctic environment is by arranging a canoe trip, so don’t miss out.

One of the greatest migrations in the world can be found near the community, as the Qamani’tuaq caribou herd passes through the region every year.

The hundreds of thousands of animals that migrate near Baker Lake provide a valuable source of food and clothing to residents.

The Akumalik Visitors Centre is your first stop when visiting Baker Lake, and be sure to take a photo with the sign that marks where the geographical centre of Canada sits as a souvenir. Also, no journey to the community would be complete without dropping by the Jessie Oonark Arts and Crafts Centre. This is the place to find that perfect piece of artwork to take home with you, and gives you the chance to meet the artist who made it as well!

Michel Thibert / Nunavut Tourism

WHILE YOU’RE HERE: Akumalik Visitors Centre 867-793-2456 Inuit Heritage Centre 867-793-2598 Hamlet Office 867-793-2874 Iglu Hotel (Inns North) 867-793-2801 / 1-888-866-6784 www.innsnorth.com Nunamiut Lodge 867-793-2127 www.nunamiutlodgehotel.ca Baker Lake Lodge 867-793-2905 Baker Lake Guest House 867-793-2831 Banks: First Nations Bank located in the Sanavik Co-op, ATMs can be found at the Northern Store.

Alcohol restrictions: Baker Lake is a restricted community, which means alcohol is governed by a local Alcohol Education Committee. Call the hamlet office for more information about the permitting process. www.bakerlake.ca Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 23

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COMMUNITY PROFILES CONTINUED CHESTERFIELD INLET ᐃᒡᓗᓕᒑᕐᔪᒃ Igluligaarjuk - “place with few Thule houses” Population: 437

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stablished in the early 1900s, Chesterfield Inlet is one of the oldest communities in Nunavut and is the oldest in the Kivalliq region. Inuit lived in the area for thousands of years and left behind many archaeological sites and artifacts that can still be seen today. Ancient kayak stands, tent rings and fox traps can be found in the same place they were left generations ago.

Residents still travel to these areas throughout the year to hunt caribou and fish for Arctic char as sustenance.

Other land mammals found in the region include polar bears, muskoxen, Arctic foxes, Arctic hare, and wolves.

This self-guided tour takes you in and around the hamlet and offers a fantastic way to learn about the area and its people. Ask your hotel manager for a map to get you on your way.

Trips with local outfitters can be arranged to take you on wildlife tours or to other places of interest outside the community. You can also pick up various traditional artwork, including clothing, wall hangings, carvings, and jewelry.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE: Hamlet Office 867-898-9951 Tangmavik Hotel (Inns North) 867-898-9975 / 1-888-866-6784 www.innsnorth.com

The waters near the community are home to beluga whales, ringed seals, bearded seals, and walrus. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, whalers were regular visitors to the area, seeking bowhead whales. Once home to almost 700 residents, the community housed the largest RCMP barracks in the eastern Arctic, as well as the largest Roman Catholic Mission.

Banks: None, but ATMs can be found at the Northern Store.

The Chesterfield Inlet Historical Walking Tour is a great way to explore the community’s history.

www.chesterfield-inlet.ca

Alcohol restrictions: Chesterfield Inlet is a restricted community, which means alcohol is governed by a local Alcohol Education Committee. Call the hamlet office for more information about the permitting process.

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 25

COMMUNITY PROFILES CONTINUED

Michel Thibert / Nunavut Tourism

CORAL HARBOUR ᓴᓪᓕᖅ Salliq - “large, flat island in front of the mainland” Population: 891

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amed for the fossilized coral along its shores, Coral Harbour is located on Southampton Island. Coats Island is a short boat ride from the community, and is a wonderful place to see walrus and bowhead whales.

The area is also home to polar bears, as well as a variety of other land and marine animals.

Make time to journey out to Fossil Creek, named for the millions of fossils found in the water and on the shoreline. Some fossils are more than 450 million years old and are a reminder of the area’s ancient tropical history!

Southampton Island is home to the Kirchoffer Falls and Upper Falls, two great sightseeing locations. Sallirmiut Inuit called the island home until the beginning of the 20th century. A site at Native Point, often referred to as “the Lost City of the North,” is one of the Sallirmiut’s last campsites where animal bones and evidence of dwellings can still be seen today.

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Coral Harbour is known for its seamstresses and artwork who create pieces, such as traditional clothing, mitts, and wall hangings. The community’s talented carvers sell soapstone and limestone carvings, and artists also use caribou antler, bone, and walrus ivory for their creations.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE: Hamlet Office 867-925-8867 Leonie’s Place 867-925-9751 Ulu House 867-925-8051 Banks: None, but an ATM can be found at the Northern Store.

Alcohol restrictions: Coral Harbour is a prohibited community, which means no alcohol is permitted. www.coralharbour.ca

Michelle Valberg / Nunavut Tourism

NAUJAAT (REPULSE BAY) ᓇᐅᔮᑦ Naujaat - “seagulls’ nesting place” Population: 1,082

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he region’s northernmost community, Naujaat, known as Repulse Bay until July 2, 2015, sits right on top of the Arctic Circle. You’ll find this marked by a stone archway, which is an excellent spot to stop and snap a photo.

Narwhal, known as the “unicorn of the sea,” are often found in the waters near the community. Whalers used Naujaat’s natural harbour throughout the 19th century and residents still perform an annual whale hunt today.

The whale’s tusk, traditionally used to make tools, is used to make jewelry and other items.

Ukkusiksalik National Park, named for the area’s plentiful soapstone, is located just west of Naujaat. The park contains Wager Bay, a saltwater inlet that features waterfalls and more than 500 archaeological sites.

Residents still camp here during the summers.

Nearby cliffs provide crucial nesting areas for various birds, such as seagulls – the community’s traditional namesake. You’ll also find gyrfalcons and peregrine falcons, as well as jaegers and eider ducks. Tours are available to go polar bear and narwhal watching in the area.

Naujaat is known throughout Nunavut for its local Arctic char. The fish caught in this region has a vibrant orange to dark red flesh, and is delicious whether eaten cooked or raw. Catching this fish is a thrill for all anglers, no matter your skill level.

A road to the nearby North Pole River leads to the remains of Dr. John Rae’s stone house, who was an explorer for the Hudson Bay Company. Rae overwintered in this house before abandoning it for the much warmer iglus Inuit taught him to make during subsequent expeditions.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE: Hamlet Office 867-462-9952 Naujat Hotel (Inns North) 867-462-4304 / 1-888-866-6784 www.innsnorth.com Banks: None, but ATMs can be found at the Northern Store and the Naujaat Co-Op. Alcohol restrictions: Naujaat is a restricted community, which means alcohol is governed by a local Alcohol Education Committee. Call the hamlet office for more information about the permitting process. www.repulsebay.ca

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 27

COMMUNITY PROFILES CONTINUED RANKIN INLET

ᑲᖏᖅᖠᓂᖅ

Kangiqliniq - “deep bay” Population: 2,842

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he largest community in the Kivalliq area and the region’s administrative hub, Rankin Inlet has more amenities than the region’s smaller communities. Here you can find banks, restaurants and retail shops, as many businesses and organizations call this community home.

Known by locals as “going up the road,” the only road that leaves Rankin Inlet leads towards Iqalugaarjuup Nunanga Territorial Park. Here you’ll find Qamaviniqtalik – “place with ancient sod houses” in Inuktitut – the park’s main archaeological feature and one of Nunavut’s treasures.

This road passes by many beautiful lakes and rock formations, as well as the Meliadine River, where you can find numerous Arctic grayling, for which the park is named. The distance is perfect to drive or walk to for a picnic or half-day trip. Pack a backpack and head out for lunch in the picnic area, or bring your camera and snap photos of the stunning river and shoreline.

Make sure to check out The Matchbox Gallery, the first and only Inuit ceramic workshop in the world. Not only will you find ceramics here, but the workshop also provides a place for local artists to create a variety of arts and crafts, such as jewelry, carvings, and prints.

Many locals like to use the river as a source of fresh water in the spring and summer, and it is seen as a special treat for elders. Both young and old can be seen hopping out onto the exposed rocks in the river to gather water to bring back into town.

For visitors staying in Rankin Inlet for a longer period of time, call up a local outfitter and arrange a trip to Marble Island, where white quartzite streaked with veins of purple and pink lend the island its name. Inuit legends say the island is cursed, so any first-time visitors must crawl up the beach on their hands and knees when you first land. Don’t worry if you don’t feel up to the task – crawling only a few feet is usually considered sufficient.

Make sure to watch for seals and whales on the boat ride over.

Photo Courtesy of Noel Kaludjak

WHILE YOU’RE HERE: Hamlet Office - 867-645-2895 Turaarvik Hotel (Inns North) 867-645-4955 / 1-888-866-6784 www.innsnorth.com Siniktarvik Hotel (Inns North) & Conference Centre 867-645-2807 / 1-888-866-6784 www.innsnorth.com Nanuq Lodge 867-645-2650 www.nanuqlodge.com Tara’s Bed and Breakfast 867-645-3478 Katimavik Suites 867-645-2275 www.katimaviksuites.com Banks: Yes, CIBC and RBC branches.

Alcohol restrictions: Rankin Inlet is an unrestricted community, which means alcohol can be imported for personal consumption.

Call the hamlet office for more information. www.rankininlet.ca

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 29

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Heiner Kubny / Nunavut Tourism

COMMUNITY PROFILES CONTINUED Photo Courtesy of Kivalliq Inuit Art Camp

WHALE COVE ᑎᑭᕋᕐᔪᐊᖅ

Tikirarjuaq - “long point” Population: 435

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f you’re seeking beluga whales, then Whale Cove is the perfect destination. Every year, hundreds of these magnificent animals gather near the community, and outfitters can arrange trips out on the water to witness this event. A stone statue of a whale’s tail honours the important role these whales play.

Whale Cove is one of the more traditional communities in Nunavut, and residents still hunt and fish to supplement their diets.

Some of the traditional foods you’ll find here include caribou, fish, and beluga whale.

Residents still follow the seasons when it comes to harvesting and clothes-making, and both summer and winter offer a variety of different experiences for visitors. Summer is the season for camping, fishing and hunting, while the long nights in fall and winter are used to create and repair clothing, and spend time together with friends and family.

Cultural activities are a vital aspect of life in Whale Cove, and visitors are always welcome to join. Take part in the annual spring fishing derby and try your hand jigging for lake trout, or make a friend in the fall and ask them to take you berry picking.

The cold and dark months of winter are no excuse to sit on your heels, as residents keep busy by holding square dances and traditional feasts. Tea and bannock-making competitions and other games help pass the time and provide a great amount of social interaction throughout the winter months.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE: Hamlet Office 867-896-9961 Tavanni Hotel (Inns North) 867-896-9004 / 1-888-866-6784 www.innsnorth.com Banks: None, but an ATM can be found at the Isatik Co-Op. Alcohol restrictions: Whale Cove is a restricted community, which means alcohol is governed by a local Alcohol Education Committee. Call the hamlet office for more information about the permitting process. www.whalecove.ca Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 31

DISCOVER WHAT MAKES THE KIVALLIQ

INCREDIBLE! INCREDIBLE! DISCOVER WHAT MAKES THE KIVALLIQ

Michel Thibert / Nunavut Tourism

THE LAND AND CLIMATE

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he Kivalliq region covers more than 440,000 square kilometres across the central Arctic, including land west of Hudson Bay and Southampton and Coats islands. There are seven hamlets in the region: Arviat, Baker Lake, Chesterfield Inlet, Coral Harbour, Rankin Inlet, Naujaat and Whale Cove. Nature and wildlife are important parts of the area, and there are a number of protected areas that include bird and wildlife sanctuaries, territorial parks and historic sites.

Kivalliq’s climate varies from mild subarctic temperatures in the southern communities to a colder polar tundra climate as you head farther north. Six Kivalliq communities are on the coast and experience typical coastal weather patterns, such as increased fog and wind at all times of the year.

Average Temperatures

Be sure to visit our website for the most up date information on members and their activities throughout the year.

1-866-NUNAVUT www.nunavuttourism.com 32 • Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018

High

Low

Rankin Inlet Spring Summer Fall Winter

-6°C/21.2°F -25°C/-13°F 10°C/50°F 4°C/39.2°F 3°C/37.4°F -7°C/19.4°F -27°C/-16.6°F -34°C/-29.2°F

Baker Lake Spring

Summer Fall Winter

-6°C/21.2°F -27°C/-16.6°F 11°C/51.8°F 5°C/41°F 3°C/37.4°F -20°C/-4°F -28°C/-18.4°F -31°C/-23.8°F

Repulse Bay Spring Summer Fall Winter

- 7°C/19.4°F -26°C/-14.8°F 8°C/46.4°F 3°C/37.4°F 0°C/32°F 19°C/66.2°F -26°C/-14.8°F -31°C/-23.8°F

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VISITOR INFORMATION

GENERAL INFORMATION Nunavut Tourism Toll-Free: 1-866-NUNAVUT (686-2888) www.nunavuttourism.com

EMERGENCY POLICE: Contact the RCMP in the community you are visiting.

MEDICAL

Rankin Inlet has a Regional Health Facility and all other communities in the Kivalliq Region have Local Health Centres.

Contact the Government of Nunavut at 867-975-7859 for more information.

Canada in the Rough / Nunavut Tourism

TRANSPORTATION SERVICES AIRLINES

GROUND TRANSPORTATION Rankin Inlet Fluffy’s Taxi S&G Taxi

867-645-2233 867-645-4000

Arviat Lola’s Taxi

867-857-4114

Baker Lake Odin’s/SLIM Taxi Caribou Taxi

867-793-3093 867-793-1358

Air Nunavut

1-866-388-5888

Calm Air

1-800-839-2256

Canadian North

1-800-661-1505

First Air

1-800-267-1247

Kivalliq Air

1-877-855-1500

Chesterfield Inlet Kingnguvaaq Taxi

867-898-9103

West Wind Aviation

1-877-600-7999

Coral Harbour Runway Taxi

867-925-8052

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2018 • 33

CALENDAR OF EVENTS Hamlet Day

This celebration marks the day each Kivalliq settlement became a hamlet.

It is celebrated at different times of the year in communities throughout the region. The day’s events usually feature a community barbeque and other fun social activities.

May – Baker Lake, Whale Cove & Chesterfield Inlet July – Naujaat September – Arviat

Canada Day – July 1

This annual celebration of our country is a huge event in Nunavut.

Communities usually celebrate with a parade and the always popular community barbeque.

Nunavut Day – July 9

This holiday commemorates Nunavut’s separation from the Northwest Territories. Nunavut Day is a statutory holiday and most government and Aboriginal government offices shut down for the day so everyone can participate in the festivities.

Arviat

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Hamlet Day – September

Rankin Inlet Fishing Derby – May

Residents and visitors alike head The annual Hamlet Day celebration out to the sea for this annual family takes place on Labour Day weekend. fishing derby. The lucky angler who Inummariit Music Festival – catches the biggest fish nets a prize and there’s always talk of big cash as October/November well as fish on the line.

The Inummariit Music Festival takes place every fall and hosts Calm Air Cup Softball performances by some of Nunavut’s Tournament – August most talented musicians.

Co-ed softball teams from

Chesterfield Inlet Chesterfield Inlet Fishing Derby - May

This popular annual event draws large crowds and is usually held over the Victoria Day long weekend.

The most beloved local fish are char and trout. Prizes are given out for the biggest fish and everyone is welcome to participate.

Naujaat Mid-Summer Narwhal Hunt

throughout the region travel to Rankin Inlet for this annual tournament.

Kivalliq Trade Show – September 24 - 26

This annual trade show and networking event features community representatives, Inuit organizations, education and training institutions, entrepreneurs, artisans, experts from the exploration and mining industry, and more.

These iconic toothed whales are one Whale Cove of the rarest whales in the world, Johnny Kook Memorial National Indigenous Peoples and they frequent the waters near Hockey Tournament – March Naujaat throughout the summer Day – July 21 Regional teams travel to Whale Cove This annual celebration of Aboriginal months. Inuit from other Kivalliq for this tournament to compete regions travel to the community culture, heritage and achievements against their peers. each year to participate in a hunt. includes traditional games, Whale Cove Fishing Derby – demonstrations and activities for the Rankin Inlet May entire family. Many generations of This spring fishing derby is a beloved Aboriginal peoples have celebrated First Air Terence Tootoo tradition that brings residents to their heritage on this, the longest Memorial Cup – February/ Whale Cove to compete for the day of the year.

March biggest lake trout.

This men’s hockey championship

Christmas Holidays – December

is a huge event for regional hockey The darkest days of winter are made teams. Come out to the arena and cheer on your favourite players while brighter thanks to activities held throughout the Christmas holidays. also entering for a chance to win Traditional games competitions and exciting raffle prizes. community feasts keep everyone Pakallak Tyme – April/May busy and communities close-knit.

This welcome spring festival is a great way to get outdoors and celebrate the long, warm days ahead. Dogsledding, snowmobile races, craft sales, community feasts and dances are held.

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NNSL File Photo