Kitikmeot Visitor's Guide

KITIKMEOT N U N A V U T

VISITORS GUIDE 2019

ACCOMMODATIONS I EVENTS MAPS I ARTS & CRAFTS COMMUNITY PROFILES

Free

4 • Kivalliq Visitors Vis isit ittors Guide 2018 ito 18

Chelsea Cahill Photo

Welcome

to Nunavut’s Kitikmeot Region

the soul of the Arctic The stunning Kitikmeot High Arctic, with all its pristine vistas, is a sight you don't want to miss.

Whatever the season, you'll find there's never a lack of opportunities to discover the region. Cruise ships sail July to August, exploring the Northwest Passage, Franklin expedition sites, the majestic wildlife and ancient ruins that trace back for generations.

"Nuna" translates as "our-land." With some of the largest wetlands in the mid-Arctic and expansive caribou calving grounds, you'll love the sights and sounds of birds and wildlife as they roam free in their natural habitats. There's always a carpet of vibrant flowers on the "nuna" after the snow and ice melt. Each of the communities in the Kitikmeot

CONTENTS

04 Kitikmeot Quick Facts 05 Staying Here 07 Sir John Franklin 08 10 11 13

Expedition Climate Country Foods Arts & Crafts Unforgettable Adventure

14 15 18 19 29 31 34 34

Fishing & Hunting Parks, Flora, Fauna Nunavut Map Community Profiles CHARS Campus Calendar of Events Visitor Information Inuinnaqtun translations

region is vastly unique, dynamic, close-knit and welcoming: Kugluktuk, Kugaaruk, Taloyoak, Cambridge Bay, Gjoa Haven, as well as the outpost camps of Bay Chimo and Bathurst Inlet. Be sure to pick up some locally made carvings, jewelry, kamiks and mitts.

Start your adventure by visiting the Nattilik Heritage Centre or Arctic Coast Visitors Centre, and be sure to ask about upcoming festivals and events. You won't want to miss the community feasts, local delicacies, drum dancing and throat signing.

Finally, if you're looking to stay longer in the region and connect with some of the local businesses, be sure to contact the Kitikmeot Chamber of Commerce: www.KCCnunavut.com Cynthia Ene, executive director The Kitikmeot Chamber of Commerce

Cover Photos - Geese - Elijah Takkiruq Polar Bear Hide, Lights and Muskox - Jojo Trenholm Snowmobile Sunset - Eliza Naomi Eetoolook Published By Northern News Services Box 2820, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2R1 Ph: 867-873-4031 Fax: 867-873-8507 www.nnsl.com

Visit us online at: www.nnsl.com/visitor-guides KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 3

Kitikmeot QUICK FACTS Bill Williams Photo

1) The 2018 movie The Grizzlies, which premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival, is based on the Kugluktuk High School lacrosse program.

2) The Government of Canada established Distant Early Warning (DEW) Line sites in Kugaaruk, Gjoa Haven and Cambridge Bay several decades ago. The purpose of the radar stations was to monitor for incoming military threats. Today, the updated installations are collectively known as Canadian North Warning System.

3) The combined population of the Kitikmeot region's five communities is 6,543, according to the 2016 Census conducted by Statistics Canada. Exemplifying the high proportion of youth among the population, 2,175 of those residents were between the ages of zero and 14.

4) The Inuit languages spoken in Kitikmeot communities are Inuinnaqtun and Inuktitut. There are only an estimated 400 people who consider Inuinnaqtun their mother tongue.

described as "tiny but mighty" – as one of Canada's best places to experience winter in an article published on the company's website in December 2018. The overall sense of community, the annual Christmas Bazaar, holiday games, the Arctic Coast Visitors Centre, Kitikmeot Foods and an abundance of snow were some of the highlights cited.

9) The Kitikmeot Chamber of Commerce was revitalized in 2017 to once again lobby for regional businesses.

Crystal Cruises Photo

10) Former federal minister Leona Aglukkaq grew up

5)) A growing number of cruise ships are passing through the Kitikmeot as they traverse the Northwest Passage. The Crystal Serenity, which accommodates close to 1,000 passengers, was twice among those vessels in recent years.

6) Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, who sailed through the Northwest Passage on a 1903-1906 journey, left a legacy in the Kitikmeot. Some residents can trace their bloodlines back to Amundsen. He stayed in what is now Gjoa Haven for two years and the community's name was derived from his ship, the Gjoa.

7) TMAC Resources' Doris North gold mine on the Hope Bay property, 110 km south of Cambridge Bay, is a major employer in the region. The Back River gold project, owned by Sabina Gold and Silver and situated 400 km southwest of Cambridge Bay, is on pace to become an operating mine in 2021. The Kitikmeot Inuit Association has Inuit Impact Benefit Agreements with both mining companies, detailing payments, royalty terms, job targets and environmental conditions.

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8) Travel website Expedia selected Cambridge Bay –

in Gjoa Haven. Aglukkaq was a Nunavut MLA for the Nattilik riding from 2004-2008 and then represented Nunavut in Parliament as a Conservative MP from 2008-2015. She served as minister of health and then environment minister during those years.

11) The suspenseful television series The Terror, which airs on the U.S. network AMC, is based on the ill-fated Sir John Franklin expedition. Franklin and his crew met their demise near Gjoa Haven in the mid-1840s. The TV series had 10 instalments in its debut 2018 season and has been renewed for another 10 episodes in 2019.

12) It was -78 C with the windchill in Kugaaruk on Jan. 13, 1975, giving that community the record for the coldest windchill recorded in Canada.

13) Construction was completed in 2018 on the $204-million, federally-run Canadian High Arctic Research Station (CHARS) in Cambridge Bay. See the story on page 29.

J. Lang DRDC/DND Photo

Thirteen

Officially designated as a territory in 1999, after division from the Northwest Territories, Nunavut’s history dates back thousands of years through the Inuit, who adapted and thrived despite some of the world’s harshest winter weather.

Nunavut is a beautiful, intriguing territory that is different in many ways from the rest of Canada.

There are a few things visitors should note.

A larger community such as Cambridge Bay has several restaurants and hotels to choose from, but smaller communities often only have one hotel. These hotels typically don’t have full service restaurants but serve meals at specific times of the day. These meals are often limited, so be sure to plan ahead if you have allergies or dietary restrictions, and let hotel staff know if you’ll be away during meal times.

Taxi services are regularly available in Cambridge Bay and can be a great way to tour the community when you arrive. Cab rides are also available in Kugluktuk, Gjoa Haven and Taloyoak. Cab rides may be shared with other community members, and it’s always courtesy to allow an elder to occupy the front passenger’s seat.

JoJo Trenholm Photo

staying here

Kugaaruk doesn’t have a taxi company. Some hotels also offer transportation, but it may be necessary to make other arrangements. Walking tours of these small communities are feasible, providing the weather cooperates.

The burgeoning cruise ship industry in the Northwest Passage provides another alternative for seeing some of the Kitikmeot communities, although stays in communities are brief.

Iqaluit, Nunavut’s capital city, is the only place in the territory with a beer and wine store, and where alcohol is sold in bars and restaurants. All other communities are designated as either “prohibited,” “restricted” or “unrestricted.”

In the Kitikmeot, Gjoa Haven and Kugaaruk fall under prohibited status, meaning alcohol is not permitted at all. Cambridge Bay, Kugluktuk and Taloyoak are unrestricted communities.

Be aware that even in unrestricted communities a liquor import permit is required to bring in more than three litres of spirits, nine litres of wine, or 26 litres of beer (72 x 355 millilitre containers). Import permits can be arranged through regional liquor permit offices in Cambridge Bay and Kugluktuk.

KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 5

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The discovery of British explorer Sir John Franklin's sunken ships near Gjoa Haven has generated enormous interest in the Kitikmeot region.

The wreck of the HMS Erebus was discovered in 2014 while the HMS Terror was located in 2016. All 129 crew members aboard both ships perished after the vessels froze in the Arctic ice in the mid-1840s. Their mission was to sail through the Northwest Passage.

Gjoa Haven residents played instrumental roles in finding the wreckage about 170 years after the ships went missing. Late historian Louie Kamookak unlocked some pivotal details about the Erebus through interviews with Inuit elders. Meanwhile, Sammy Kogvik noticed the mast of the Terror poking through the ice while travelling by snowmobile. His recollections would help guide a federal search team to the site years later.

The Government of Canada unveiled a commemorative plaque for the Franklin ships in Gjoa Haven in September 2017. The inscription reads, in part: "Inuit knowledge provided clues about the fate of the Franklin expedition and helped search teams locate the wrecks in 2014 and 2016."

A flurry of activity has since taken place, including the British government formally bestowing the wrecks and most of their artifacts to the Inuit Heritage Trust and the Government of Canada in 2018. Both wrecks have been declared national historic sites.

Parks Canada has conducted archeological dives at the Erebus and retrieved various artifacts – a ceramic pitcher, a copper alloy navigational tool known as an artificial horizon roof, pulley wheels, a nail, a pin and rigging from the upper deck. Those historical items were exhibited in Gjoa Haven and Cambridge Bay last September.

Additional exploration of the Franklin ships is planned

CNW Group/Parks Canada

Franklin resurgence sweeps kitikmeot INTEREST ESCALATES FOLLOWING DISCOVERY OF DOOMED BRITISH EXPEDITION

for summer 2019. His remains and the ship's log book are among the items not yet recovered.

The plan in Gjoa Haven is to double the size of the Nattilik Heritage Centre by 2020 to accommodate the storage of some of the Franklin artifacts, thousands of which are estimated to still lie on the Arctic Ocean floor.

Cruise ship bookings to the community have already been on the rise – five different ships paid visits in 2018.

The growing number of visitors helped spawn the annual Umiyaqtutt Festival, which is held in late August and early September. Cruise guests are welcomed with games, traditional events and feasts.

Another facet of the Franklin renaissance is the emergence of the Inuit Guardians program. It employs residents of Gjoa Haven to watch over the Erebus and Terror sites during the open-water season, ensuring no one plunders the treasures below the ocean's surface.

Beyond patrols of the sites, the Inuit Guardians program is being expanded to have local people act as history and cultural ambassadors, and to explain to tourists how climate change is having an impact on the North.

Other tourist excursions are in development as well.

Further curiosity about the fate of the Franklin expedition has been piqued by the American television series The Terror, which debuted in 2018 on the AMC network in the U.S. The chilling series, combining fact with the supernatural, has gained a solid following and has been renewed for a second season in 2019.

KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 7

CLIMATE COMFORTABLE SUMMERS, FRIGID WINTERS Double-digit warmth is fairly common during Kitikmeot summers while winters deliver eyelashfreezing frost. This is to be expected in a region that spans Nunavut's western mainland to the Arctic islands.

JoJo Trenholm Photo

Snowfall generally occurs between mid-September and mid-June. Winter temperatures regularly dip into the -30 C to -40 C range, but can feel even colder with the windchill. The region's relatively flat landscape and lack of trees means there is nothing to block gusting

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winds, creating extreme windchill conditions.

Kugaaruk holds the distinction of having Canada's record coldest windchill, as it plummeted to -78 C on Jan. 13, 1975.

Winter weather, which can bring blizzards that rage for days, sometimes results in travel delays. Be prepared.

Keep in mind the type of trip you're taking when you pack. Will you be staying in the community? Clothing rated to -25 C is fine for business travellers who are remaining within hamlet limits, but if you're taking a snowmobile or dogsled ride, you'll need clothing that is the warmest you can find, like a parka with a furtrimmed hood. Layers of clothing are recommended, as well as a hat, mittens, something to cover your face and waterproof winter boots rated to at least -50 C. Mittens will keep your hands warmer than gloves since mitts keep the fingers together.

Kitikmeot summers are short, often with long, sunny days. Even in July, sometimes temperatures remain in the single digits, so be sure to pack a jacket and long pants. Mosquitoes thrive around the thousands of lakes and ponds that dot the Kitikmeot landscape, so a mosquito jacket and repellent are necessary investments. Try to remember to bring your own, since local stores may run out of these items.

KUGLUKTUK Warmest month: July averages 11 C Coldest month: January averages -27 C Record hottest day: 34.9 C (July 15, 1989) Record coldest night: -47.2 C (Feb. 20, 1998) 24-hours of light from May 27 to July 17 24-hour darkness from Dec. 10 to Jan. 1

WHAT SHOULD I BRING? Pack these basics to make sure you're prepared for any type of weather: • thermal underwear • T-shirts and undershirts • long-sleeved shirts • sweaters • jeans or long pants • regular and thick wool socks • hiking boots and warmer boots for trips on the land • rain coat and waterproof pants • toque or winter hat • two pairs of mitts (one for extreme cold and another for milder weather) • mosquito repellent in the summer • an emergency locator device if you're heading out on the land

Bill Williams Photo

CAMBRIDGE BAY Warmest month: July averages 9 C Coldest month: February averages -32 C Record hottest day: 28.9 C (July 1, 1930) Record coldest night: -52.8 C (Jan. 3, 1935) 24-hours of light from May 20 to July 24 24-hour darkness from Nov. 30 to Jan. 12

GJOA HAVEN Warmest month: August averages 5 C Coldest month: January and February average -34 C Record hottest day: 24.1 C (July 6, 1996) Record coldest night: -50.2 C (Feb. 14, 1990) 24-hours of light from May 23 to July 21 24-hour darkness from Dec. 3 to Jan. 8 TALOYOAK Warmest month: July averages 7 C Coldest month: January and February average -34 C Record hottest day: 23 C (July 17, 1989) Record coldest night: -49.5 C (Feb. 14, 1990) 24-hours of light from May 18 to July 25 24-hour darkness from Nov. 27 to Jan. 14 KUGAARUK Warmest month: August averages 12 C Coldest month: February averages -34 C Record hottest day: 29 C (Aug. 4, 1998) Record coldest night: -51.5 C (Jan. 28, 1989) 24-hours of light from May 23 to July 20 24-hour darkness from Dec. 4 to Jan. 8

KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 9

For centuries the Inuit have depended on the animals roaming the tundra for their survival. These animals are collectively referred to as “country food.”

Why not sample local cuisine such as caribou stew, muskox, Arctic char, maktaq (whale skin), uqhuq (whale blubber) or seal while you’re here?

Caribou and char can sometimes be found on hotel and restaurant menus, but their availability varies depending on season.

A community feast is often the best place to try local delicacies, so make sure to drop by if one happens during your visit. Feasts are usually held in community halls or arenas and food is typically spread out on cardboard on the floor. Meat is traditionally eaten

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JoJo Trenholm Photo

COUNTRY FOODS

frozen, raw and boiled. It is routinely paired with bannock, a delicious fried bread.

Traditional foods, such as whale skin, Arctic char and caribou, are often dried. Dried caribou is called “mipku” while dried fish is known as “piffy.”

Polar bear meat is served at some dinner tables in Kitikmeot communities.

Geese and ducks are hunted in the spring. Bird’s eggs – commonly from geese and ducks – are another treat.

Kitikmeot Foods, based in Cambridge Bay, produces a muskox burger, popular in Nunavut, and a line of Arctic char fare such as filets, jerky and candied char. These char products are shipped to markets in southern Canada and the United States.

NNSL File Photo

ARTS & CRAFTS The work of Kitikmeot artists reflects the respect they have for the land, the sea, the animals, the forces of nature and Inuit legends and customs.

Taloyoak is where “packing dolls” originated. In the 1970s, women in the community began sewing dolls inspired by Inuit women carrying their babies in amautis, roomy parkas with large hoods. Babies are carried within the hood.

The collectible dolls evolved to include animals carrying their young in embroidered amautis. There are polar bear, seal, snowy owl, muskox and Arctic hare packing dolls, among others, made from wool-duffel, all carrying their offspring. These products are among the best sellers at Taloyoak’s Taluq Designs, a subsidiary of the Nunavut Development Corporation. Each of the dolls sold in the boutique or online is accompanied by the artist’s signature in Inuktitut syllabics.

Carvings in stone, antler and bone are desired by many tourists. These carvings come in small, hand-held sizes up to pieces a few feet tall. Prices could range from $20 to $50 for a basic carving purchased directly from an artist to thousands of dollars for larger, more detailed work available through retailers. Some artists will fashion jewelry from bone and antler as well.

Recent welding courses in Cambridge Bay led to the creation of two highly-regarded large metal animals being erected and displayed in the community: a multi-

WALL HANGINGS AND SEAL FUR-LINED BAGS CAN BE FOUND AT THE KITIKMEOT TRADE SHOW coloured muskox and a powerful wolf.

Intricate tapestries and vibrant wall hangings are among other handiwork you’ll find in the region.

There’s also clothing available such as parkas – traditionally made from caribou or seal skins with furlined hoods – and boots known as kamiik, consisting of seal skin and seal fur. When made according to timehonoured methods, the seal skin that forms the durable soles has to be chewed repeatedly to soften it and allow it to be stretched.

Some craftspeople also produce lovely beaded moccasins.

Retail stores in all communities sell arts and crafts. You may find pieces for sale at municipal offices, tourism information centres, hotels and restaurants and cafes, as well.

In Gjoa Haven, the Ullulaq Gift Shop, located within the Nattilik Heritage Centre, has a supply of carvings, wall hangings and local sewing handiwork for sale.

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UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURE

JoJo Trenholm Photo

YOURS TO DISCOVER

TREK THROUGH THE WILD

This is nature as few have experienced it – raw, untouched, untamed and stunningly beautiful.

More than 440,000 square kilometres of tundra, vegetation, low-lying wetlands, broad, sloping bedrock and plentiful lakes and islands. It’s little wonder that the Kitikmeot region lures hikers, campers, paddlers, artists, birdwatchers and photographers.

Hiking, canoeing, kayaking, snowmobiling, riding allterrain vehicles, camping, aerial tours.

These are among the numerous options to explore the Kitikmeot.

For paddlers, there are many lakes and rivers. The Coppermine and Back rivers, both of which flow north and originate in the NWT, are enticing for experienced canoeists. Hard-core adventurers start out in Yellowknife and finish their journey in Kugluktuk, covering several hundred kilometres in the water and enlisting charter flights to reach launching points and fly back again after their trip is over. There are guided expeditions that begin closer to Kugluktuk, a trip that can still last close to two weeks. Along the way, you’ll see the taiga forest. The landscape then transitions to the tundra, although dwarf willow, birch and spruce trees endure.

You’ll pass by the red-tinged granite cliffs of Rocky Defile Canyon and you may very well spot muskoxen, caribou, many species of birds, berries and inuksuks along the banks of this Canadian heritage river. The bugs will find you! Repellent or a bug jacket will prevent annoying bites, just be sure to bring them along.

Be cognizant of the challenging portages and the rapids that exist on both the Coppermine and Back rivers. A trained guide can be a life saver.

Rumbling across the tundra on a snowmobile in the winter or an all-terrain vehicle in the summer is another temptation. You could catch a glimpse of wildlife, but if the animals veer away from the hum of your engine. Be mindful that regulations prevent you from giving chase.

No matter where you venture, make safety a priority.

Ensure someone is aware of your destination and when you should return. Bring an emergency locator beacon in case of emergency. Consider hiring a guide for additional peace of mind.

CAMP THE WILDERNESS

Contributed Photo

You won’t find crowded, powered campsites here – no hot showers and no internet signal. This is where you’ll discover true camping – a vast wilderness that you can claim as your own, finding peace on the land under an immense Arctic sky. Visitors should always be prepared for rugged conditions.

Bring warm clothing and layers at all times of the year, including a heavy-duty sleeping bag. Although there are few established campsites for tourists, there are many plateaus offering spectacular vantage points where tents can be pitched. Just remember to bring durable ropes to secure your tent to large rocks as Nunavut’s notorious winds might test your tent frame.

If you’re lucky, the Northern lights will perform a dance overhead, creating ribbons of green in the night sky.

Be sure to take heed of bear warnings in the area you’re visiting, and avoid camping in locations where bears have recently roamed.

Call the local hamlet offices or hunters and trappers organizations for advice and recommendations before heading onto the land.

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FISHING & HUNTING The Kitikmeot region comprises 443,277 square kilometres teeming with wildlife and plenty of freshwater and saltwater fishing spots that range from quiet bays to flowing rivers.

It’s an adventure you’ll savour for a lifetime.

Sheila Kamookak Photo

ON THE WATER

GOVERNMENT OF NUNAVUT Department of Environment Tel: 867-975-7700 Email: environment@gov.nu.ca Website: gov.nu.ca/environment KITIKMEOT WILDLIFE OFFICES Cambridge Bay 867-983-4164 Gjoa Haven 867-360-7605 Kugaaruk 867-769-7011 Kugluktuk 867-982-7450 Taloyoak 867-561-6231

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The Inuit of the region traditionally fished using their hands, harpoons and spears. Nets were woven from animal sinew or leather, and lures were crafted from bone, shell and antler.

These days most anglers either spin cast, fly fish or ice fish, depending on the location, season and type of fish. The most popular fish in the North is the mouthwatering Arctic char, a relative of the salmon. They are known for their fighting spirit, delicious taste and distinct orange flesh. Large char can weigh nine kilograms or more. Ocean char are born in fresh water, where they return for spawning, so it’s best to catch them during their migration. Landlocked Arctic char are found in lakes that were once connected to the ocean, and these fish are caught year-round.

Lake trout are another popular catch, and they can reach the 22 kilogram range. They are found in rivers and lakes and are feisty on the hook. Many anglers salivate at the thought of a fresh-grilled Arctic grayling. They are a smaller, freshwater fish, only weighing up to one kilogram. You’ll recognize a grayling by its large, sail-like dorsal fin.

NOTE: A Nunavut sport fishing licence is mandatory for non-Inuit, and can be obtained at a local wildlife office.

ON THE LAND: Herds of caribou and muskoxen roam the tundra and polar bears prowl the sea ice for seals. While the animals are plentiful, hunting in Nunavut takes advanced planning and can be limited if you’re here for a short visit.

Companies such as Adventure Northwest offer hunting trips at Bathurst Inlet Lodge (780-247-0247).

For information on hunting contact: Government of Nunavut, Department of Environment Tel: 867-975-7700 Email: environment@gov.nu.ca Website: gov.nu.ca/environment

This huge expanse was designated as a protected area in 1961 to nurture geese, but it has provided sanctuary to a broad range of migratory birds and land-based animals since that time. Bird species include plovers, ducks, geese, loons, sandpipers, gulls, Arctic terns, Jaegers, sparrows, hawks, falcons, swans and snowy owls. Terrestrial animals found in the park include barren-ground caribou, muskoxen, foxes, wolves and wolverines.

Be advised, a permit is required to access the sanctuary.

Of course, the Kitikmeot's habitat also supports polar bears and a variety of whales and seal. Moose inhabit areas near Kugluktuk, as well. Clever crows are ubiquitous and are known to put on aerial demonstrations. Arctic hare and Arctic ground squirrels (known locally as siksiks) have broad ranges.

As for fauna, Arctic willow and cotton grass are found widely, and the Inuit found multiple uses for these plants such as insulation and burning them for warmth.

Purple saxifrage, Nunavut's official flower, prospers in the region as do other brilliant wildflowers.

JoJo Trenholm Photo

There are four parks in the Kitikmeot region: Ovayok (Mount Pelly) Territorial Park near Cambridge Bay, Kugluk (Bloody Falls) Territorial Park near Kugluktuk, Northwest Passage Trail in Gjoa Haven and the Queen Maud Gulf (Ahiak) Migratory Bird Sanctuary on the mainland.

Ovayok, covering 16 square km, is known for majestic Mount Pelly, which rises 200 metres. The park, 16 km east of Cambridge Bay, has five hiking trails: Neakoa Trail, Neakoa Kengmetkoplo (Head to Heel) Trail, Cycle of the Seasons Trail, Tolemaqk Trail and Ovayok Trail. You'll travel more than 20 km if you follow each of the routes. If you'd prefer to make camp for the night, there are spots to put up a tent.

Kugluk (Bloody Falls) Territorial Park, 15 km from Kugluktuk, encompasses 8.5 square km. The Coppermine River flows over the falls, deemed "Bloody" because of a violent historic battle between the Inuit and the Dene.

Archeological clues from ancestors of today's Inuit and Dene can still be found in the park, including past camps and homes.

Colourful wildflowers bloom in the summer, giving the national historical site an entirely different feel.

A campsite exists beneath the falls. You may spot birds of prey, like the golden eagle, hawks and falcons. Grizzly bears periodically pass through the area as well, so don't leave food or garbage out.

Gjoa Haven's Northwest Passage Trail is an educational experience, informing visitors of European efforts to navigate the Northwest Passage centuries ago, and the community's role in some of those expeditions.

Particular attention is given to Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, whose sojourn in the community spanned three summers and two winters in the early 1900s.

The largest of the parks is the Queen Maud Gulf (Ahiak) Migratory Bird Sanctuary (MBS) at nearly 63,000 square km.

Bill Williams Photo

PARKS • FLORA • FAUNA

KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 15

PRINCE PATRICK ISLAND

AXEL HEIBERG ISLAND

Beaufort Sea

Grise Fiord MELVIL L E ISL AND

BATHURST ISLAND

P

DEVON ISLAND

CORNWALLIS ISLAND

BANKS ISLAND

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Arctic Bay

Pond Inlet Nanisivik

BAFFIN ISLAND

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Cambridge Bay

Taloyoak

Coronatio n Gulf

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V I C TO RIA ISL AND

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Gjoa Haven

Queen Maud Gulf

Kugaaruk

Hall Beach

Naujaat (Repulse Bay)

Baker Lake Chesterfield Inlet

Northwest Territories

Rankin Inlet

Coral Harbour SOUTHAMPTON ISLAND Evans Strait t i a r t S r e Fish

Whale Cove

■ Kitikmeot/Qitirmiut Region ■ Qikiqtaaluk Region ■ Kivalliq Region

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Arviat

Kivalliq Visitors Guide 2016

Hudson Bay

Moses Totalik Photo

COMMUNITY PROFILES

WHILE YOU'RE HERE GJOA HAVEN • éÉé é

Uqsuqtuuq - “lots of fat” Population: 1,324 Gjoa Haven's Nattilik Heritage Centre is a trove of Inuit history, making it a must-see attraction for tourists.

The facility, which opened in 2013, exhibits Inuit tools such as a snow knife, used to make iglus; a kakivak, a spear used for fishing; and a seal indicator, a long, curved bone placed in a seal's breathing hole that will get pushed upwards and give Inuit hunters advanced notice when their prey comes up for air.

A belt made of bone fragments and sinew is on display. It was worn by a shaman, an Inuit religious figure. There are also artifacts from Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, including a bow and arrow that he had acquired through trading. Amundsen, captain of the vessel Gjoa, and his crew spent 19031905 in the community, leaving the name Gjoa Haven as a legacy. There are Inuit who can trace their lineage back to the Norwegian visitors.

In the years that Amundsen lived among the Inuit, they showed him their survival skills and command of dog-teams. He traded metal objects for Inuit clothing and traditional tools. After he departed, he became the first European to sail through the Northwest Passage in 1906.

A cairn in tribute to Amundsen stands near the harbour, which the Norwegian captain described as "the finest little harbour in the world."

The community's Northwest Passage Trail is a homage to Gjoa Haven's history in association with the storied waterway. Based at the southeastern coast of King William Island – 250 km above the Arctic Circle – Gjoa Haven has been prominent in the national news over the past several years due to the discovery of British

Hamlet office: 867-360-7141 Nattilik Heritage Centre: 867-360-6035 Amundsen Hotel (Inns North): 867-360-6176 / 888-866-6784 Gjoa Haven Bed & Breakfast: 867-360-6272 ATM: Co-op and Northern Store Alcohol restrictions: Gjoa Haven is a prohibited community, meaning no alcohol is permitted. www.gjoahaven.net explorer Sir John Franklin's lost ships. The HMS Erebus and HMS Terror became lodged in Arctic ice in the mid-1840s and eventually sank. It led to the demise of Franklin and his entire crew.

Numerous film crews and a growing number of curious cruise ship passengers have subsequently made their way to Gjoa Haven to learn more about the extraordinary findings.

The community launched the week-long Umiyaqtutt ("lost ship") Festival in late summer 2017 in recognition of the Franklin ships being located and to greet cruise ship tourists with cultural demonstrations.

It's an opportune time to have a fishing rod as Arctic char run in late August and early September.

Another community celebration occurs in May with the Qavvavik Frolics spring carnival. The event – comprising several days of games and feasts – is named after the process of seal pups shedding their white fur.

For visitors with the time and ambition to go farther afield, there's a fossil site less than 10 km from the community where remains of sea creatures can be seen.

Three kilometres to the west of Gjoa Haven, you'll find rock shelters believed to once belong to the Tuniit, legendary giants.

KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 19

Cynthia Ene Photo

JoJo Trenholm Photo

COMMUNITY PROFILES CONT’D

CAMBRIDGE BAY • çª £ é Ikaluktutiak – "good fishing place" Population: 1,766 Cambridge Bay is the largest of the Kitikmeot communities and serves as the government hub for the region.

It was the fishing and hunting that convinced the Inuit to settle in this location at the southern end of Victoria Island. Archeological studies indicate that the area has been occupied for approximately 4,000 years, including the Pre-Dorset, Thule and Copper Inuit eras.

20 KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019

Arctic Char are abundant, and huge, in the nearby Ekaluk River. Specimen that stretch the measuring tape up to 90 cm and tip the scales at close to nine kilograms are not uncommon. There are local fishing guides that can arrange your char expedition.

Commercial fishing also takes place in Cambridge Bay. The catches supply Kitikmeot Foods, which processes the Arctic char as well locally-hunted muskox.

With such a rich community history, the Kitikmeot Heritage Society offers many programs, often involving local elders, that explore and celebrate Cambridge Bay's fascinating past. A new addition in 2018 was a "touch wall" and website, both accessible at the May Hakongak Library and Cultural Centre. The project highlights more than 12,000 places of interest identified with Inuit names. Audio samples provide proper pronunciation in the Inuit language of Inuinnaqtun. The cultural centre also features a museum and archives.

As a means to help cover costs, the non-profit Kitikmeot Heritage Society has launched Kaapittiaq, the first Inuit-owned coffee enterprise. The beans are sourced through Peru.

While venturing around Cambridge Bay, you'll notice a couple of magnificent metal animals standing in town.

Students in a welding course fabricated a large colourful muskox and a fierce-looking wolf.

Depending on your timing, you may catch a community

To Water Lake

CAMBRIDGE BAY

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Municipality of Cambridge Bay

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Kitikmeot Inuit Association Building yak gia Mi

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Health Center

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Kalgens Dis & Dat C-Store

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Omingmak street

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Heritage Center

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Kulik Road

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CHARS Research Station

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Royal Canadian Mounted Police Office

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Town Dock Landing Site

celebration, such as the week-long spring carnival known as Omingmak Frolics, Nunavut Day or Christmas games. These events showcase a variety of cultural activities, talent shows and competitions.

The Inuit tradition of throat-singing – brought to the attention of a wider audience by Cambridge Bay talent Tanya Tagaq – is sometimes among the highlights.

Traditional meets modern through the $204-million Canadian High Arctic Research Station (CHARS).

The federal government selected Cambridge Bay as the site of the world-class scientific facility, which began operations in 2018. Inuit knowledge, accumulated over millennia, is of great value to the researchers.

For those seeking nature, it's found almost everywhere you turn. Two protected sites exist in close proximity to the community: Ovayok Territorial Park, 16 kilometres to the east, and the Queen Maud Bird Sanctuary, 75 km south on the mainland.

If you're uncertain of any details, staff at the Arctic Coast Visitors Centre will greet tourists and provide helpful information.

WHILE YOU'RE HERE Hamlet office: 867-983-4650 Arctic Coast Visitors Centre: 867-983-2224 Arctic Islands Lodge (Inns North): 867-983-2345 / 888-866-6784 Enokhok Inn and Suites: 867-983-2562 Go Cargo Taxi/vehicle rentals: 867-983-5524/5005 Kitikmeot Foods: 867-983-2881 Illu B&B: 867-983-4982 Qillaq Lodge: 867-983-2067 Saxifrage Resto-Cafe: 867-983-3111 The Ublu Inn: 867-983-3214 Umingmak Lodge: 867-983-2550 Banks: Royal Bank ATM: Northern Store Alcohol restrictions: Cambridge Bay is an unrestricted community, which means alcohol can be imported, in limited quantities, for personal consumption.

Call the hamlet office for more information. www.cambridgebay.ca KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 21

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COMMUNITY PROFILES CONT’D

KUGAARUK • §°ÛЪ

“little stream” Population: 933 The traditional Inuit lifestyle is still strongly embraced in the Kitikmeot and that's definitely true of Kugaaruk.

Whales play a critical part in the community's diet.

Narwhal, distinct due to their long tusks, and beluga, which have white skin, are hunted regularly. Gigantic bowhead whales, which can weigh up to 100 tonnes, are harvested rarely due to their small population as a result of Atlantic commercial whaling in the past.

However, landing a single bowhead goes a long way due to their copious skin, blubber and meat, even when shared among the entire community.

Although uncommon, the odd killer whale (or orca) has

Hamlet office: 867-561-2300 Taluq Designs: 867-561-5280 ATM: Co-op and Northern Store Alcohol restrictions: Taloyoak is an unrestricted community, which means alcohol can be imported, in limited quantities, for personal consumption.

Call the hamlet office for more information. progeny in tow. Taluq Designs, an arts and crafts outlet, markets these dolls and other arts and crafts. It's well worth a visit.

There are also carvers in the community. One of Taloyoak's better-known carvers, the late Karoo Ashevak, produced work that remains in high demand. His sculpture Shaman with Opposing Faces fetched an astounding $90,000 at auction in Toronto last year. One of Ashevak's larger pieces commanded $130,000 in 2016.

Those coming and going from the community will notice the new $6.3-million airport. An official opening celebration was held last September for the 3,466-square-foot, two-storey air terminal building. It features heated floors, improved seating and is more accessible for those with disabilities. been spotted in the Gulf of Boothia in recent years.

Seals are plentiful and are another savoured source of food. Seal fur is used for clothing.

Continued page 24

Wikimedia Commons Photo

Talurjuaq - “large caribou hunting blind” Population: 1,029 Taloyoak holds the distinction of being the northernmost community on Canada's mainland.

Fishing is good here year round, but spring and summer are prime-time for catching Arctic char and lake trout. A fishing derby is usually held in the spring.

Some whopping trout measure a metre or longer.

On the land, at the Boothia peninsula's southwest coast, caribou migrate by the community. Although hunters often use all-terrain vehicles to transport their catch these days, there are still times when an individual will take down a caribou close to town, sling it over his shoulders and carry it back on foot over rugged terrain, a true feat of strength.

During the winter, there's great snowmobiling in the area. You can often view iglus built on the harbour ice adjacent to the community.

The Christmas holiday season is a festive time in Taloyoak as traditional games are played and a community feast with local fish, seal, caribou and muskox is relished by merry residents.

Creating art remains a pastime or an occupation for some residents. There are a good number of talented artists in Taloyoak who make beloved wool-duffel "packing dolls." The practice started in the 1970s with Peeteekootee Ugyak leading the way. These crafts portray local animals carrying or "packing" their offspring in amautis, parkas with large hoods, much in the same way Inuit women do with their babies.

There are muskoxen, polar bears, snowy owls, Arctic hare, ptarmigan, walruses and others, all with their

Kristen Eetoolook Photo

TALOYOAK • ¡ÂÛÐ Ûª

KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019 23

COMMUNITY PROFILES CONT’D Kugaaruk continued from page 23

Caribou, which provides highly-desired meat, migrate near the community. Polar bears and, less commonly, grizzly bears occasionally make an appearance in or around Kugaaruk.

Not only will visitors have a chance of seeing whales and seals and other wildlife, there is excellent kayaking, canoeing and boating in the bay, right on the community's shore. The picturesque small mountains nearby make for a memorable day on the water and there are numerous nearby islands to explore.

Fishing for Arctic char in nearby lakes and rivers is another activity worth pursuing. Many people say the char in Kugaaruk has a truly delightful taste. Lake trout can also be found in some fishing holes.

Bird watching and photography is worthwhile as there are many types of feathered creatures in the area such as falcons, ducks, Canada geese, swans and snowy owls.

Unless camping on the tundra is your thing, tourists who come to Kugaaruk stay at Inukshuk Inns North, run by the Koomiut Co-op. The hotel is expanding, adding a second storey, that will take it to 15 rooms from six in 2019. There are also plans to build a new retail store

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WHILE YOU’RE HERE Hamlet office: 867-769-6281 Inukshuk Inns North: 867-769-7211 ATM: Co-op store Alcohol restrictions: Kugaaruk is a prohibited community, meaning no alcohol is permitted. that will feature a bakery, but that project won't be complete until 2020 as construction supplies arrive via cargo ships in a process known as sealift. The window for shipping via the Arctic Ocean lasts only a few months because thick ice prevents navigation during most of the year.

Kugaaruk is located on Nunavut's mainland, on the Simpson peninsula. It's surrounded by beautiful valleys – green in the summer – for hiking or viewing on allterrain vehicles.

A stone church, built in the 1940s, exists in the community. Although it's in disrepair and off-limits to the public, it still represents part of the community's history.

Until 1999, the hamlet was known as Pelly Bay, named after former Hudson's Bay Company governor Sir John Pelly.

Bill Williams Photo

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

KUGLUKTUK • åÛÂé é "place of moving water" Population: 1,491 Kugluktuk boasts many awe-inspring natural attractions and some human-made ones too.

Nunavut’s westernmost community is situated at the mouth of the Coppermine River as it empties into the Coronation Gulf. The waterway got its name because it was a historic source of copper to the Inuit, who used the metal to fashion tools.

The Coppermine is an exceptional fishing location.

Arctic grayling, whitefish, Arctic char, pike and trout will show up in nets or on fishing lines.

The river is also an inviting place to canoe, kayak, go rafting, boating or swimming on a hot summer’s day.

Berry-picking is terrific around Kugluktuk. Cranberries, blueberries, cloudberries and crowberries all grow wild. These juicy treats are tasty raw or in baked goods. Some prefer them after a frost, saying it adds a hint more sweetness.

Keep your eyes peeled for grizzly bears, however. The massive predators also enjoy berries. They amble into the community on occasion too, but usually wander off without causing trouble.

Fifteen kilometres from Kugluktuk is Kugluk (Bloody Falls) Territorial Park. It’s a popular location for local residents and tourists alike. The hamlet and the territorial government are partnering to build a road to the park, making it accessible by truck instead of just all-terrain vehicles or snowmobiles on the established trail.

Hamlet office: 867-982-6500 Black Feather (canoeing & kayaking trips): 888-849-7668 Kugluktuk Visitor Heritage Centre: 867-982-4555 Enokhok Inn: 867-982-3197 Arctic Vision Bed & Breakfast: 867-688-5765 Bank: First Nations Bank of Canada ATM: Hamlet office, Co-op, Northern Store Alcohol restrictions: Kugluktuk is an unrestricted community, which means alcohol can be imported, in limited quantities, for personal consumption.

Call the hamlet office for more information.

During the winter, iglus pop up a short distance from the community. This is an annual project undertaken

by Kugluktuk High School students. They learn the traditional skills from experienced community members, keeping in mind how to properly cut the blocks of snow, that the base of the structures must be perfectly round and that the opening shouldn’t face prevailing winds or else snow drifts will pose problems.

Some tourists who hear about the iglus request being taken to the site to see – and climb into – the snow shelters for themselves.

Spring brings the Nattiq Frolics festival, a week of games, competitions and feasts.

Another Kugluktuk gem is the Kugluktuk Visitor Heritage Centre. The building, which opened in 2014, is shaped liked an ulu, an Inuit rounded cutting tool.

There are many Inuit artifact exhibits on hand. One of the most striking displays is a five-metre-long caribouskin kayak. Arts, crafts and other souvenirs are for sale at the heritage centre.

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The $204-million, world-class Canadian High Arctic Research Station campus in Cambridge Bay hosts some of the country's leading scientists, as well as researchers from around the globe.

J. Lang DRDC/DND Photo

CHARS CAMPUS

CAMBRIDGE BAY BECOMES A LEADER IN SCIENCE among the research projects undertaken at CHARS. There are also investigations into renewable energy options as well as improving the design, construction and maintenance of buildings in the North.

Polar Knowledge Canada, a federal agency, operates CHARS and has made a commitment to be inclusive of Indigenous knowledge and traditions, which it describes as “fundamentally important to the co-creation of new knowledge.”

Perspectives of Inuit elders, youth and other community members will be heard, the agency states.

Close to one-third of the space in the Main Research Building – which houses research labs, office space and centres for technology development and knowledge sharing – is open to the public. Tours of the building can also be arranged.

A. Fradkin Photo

Already home to thousands of years of Inuit traditional knowledge, Cambridge Bay is now a Canadian Arctic science and technology powerhouse.

Professional researchers and university students from across the nation and from all over the world flock to the state-of-the-art Canadian High Arctic Research Station (CHARS) to carry out studies.

Construction of the $204-million facility was completed in 2018.

The scientific pursuits fall under categories such as ecosystem science and DNA analysis, Indigenous knowledge and community-based monitoring as well as clean technology and renewable resources for remote communities.

Examinations of climate change and its effects on ice, snow and permafrost and how that could affect wildlife, shipping and community infrastructure are

Navalik Tologanak Photo

CALENDAR OF EVENTS FFebruary ebruary Kitikmeot Trade Show This year’s Kitikmeot Trade Show in Cambridge Bay, scheduled for Feb. 11-13, marks the event’s 20th anniversary. Not only does the trade show bring together regional and territorial business leaders, it’s also a celebratory occasion. Canadian singing icon Tom Cochrane has been booked to perform for the delegates and the public during this milestone year. Previous editions of the Trade Show have featured acts such as 54-40 and Blue Rodeo.

March Kitikmeot Cup Regional hockey supremacy will be settled on the ice in Cambridge Bay as the top players from the Kitikmeot face off. The Taloyoak Trail Blazers earned the banner in 2018 by defeating the Gjoa Haven Snowy Owls in the championship game.

April Nunavut Drum Dance Festival Veteran and novice drum dancers from across the territory will gather in Cambridge Bay April 6-12 to share traditional drum dance knowledge during the day and to drum, sing, dance and tell stories to the public in the evenings.

Square dance showdown The 10th annual Gjoa Haven Square Dance Showdown is scheduled for April 11-14 and it promises to draw

competitors territory. comp co mppeettito ittor ors fr ffrom fro rom om aacross cros cr oss th oss the te the err rritititor tor oryy. Teams Tea eams ms of of eight eiigh ght andd 12 dancers apiece are expectedd to compete in adult d d l and children’s categories.

Nattiq Frolics It’s a full week of fun in Kugluktuk as residents participate in a seal hunt, ice games, a variety of snowmobile races, youth and adult jigging contests, a cribbage tournament, a traditional dress contest, a corporate challenge, a talent show and there’s local cuisine galore.

April/May Hamlet Day This celebration marks the day each Kitikmeot settlement became a hamlet. It is celebrated at different times of the year in Nunavut communities, but April and May are common. The day’s events usually feature a community barbecue and other fun social activities.

May Omingmak Frolics This week-long spring carnival in Cambridge Bay is jam-packed with activities including a parade, snowmobile races, an array of tasty foods, a scavenger hunt, a corporate challenge and community dances. The festivities will also see the crowning of Frolics royalty and appearances by Ollie, the Omingmak Frolics mascot, who resembles a muskox.

Continued page 33

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Bill Williams Photo

CALENDAR OF EVENTS CONT’D Continued from page 31

Qavvavik Frolics Gjoa Haven welcomes spring with the Qavvavik Frolics.

Dog-team races, snowmobile races and iglu building competitions are usually among the festivities, which last the better part of a week. Fishing and sealing derbies often take place in the weeks that follow.

June National Indigenous Peoples Day – June 21 This annual celebration of Indigenous culture, heritage and achievements includes traditional games, demonstrations and activities for the entire family. Many generations of Indigenous peoples have celebrated their heritage on this, the longest day of the year.

July Canada Day – July 1 This annual celebration of our country is a huge event in Nunavut. Communities usually celebrate with a parade and the always-popular community barbecue.

Nunavut Day – July 9 This holiday commemorates Nunavut’s separation from the Northwest Territories in 1999. Nunavut Day is a statutory holiday and most government and Indigenous government offices shut down for the day so everyone can participate in the festivities.

August Polar Bear Dip The annual Polar Bear Dip in Cambridge Bay is a popular fundraiser, but a chilling experience. Although the ice is gone, the Arctic Ocean water still remains under 10 C. The money raised in 2018, in excess of $10,000, was put toward a new recreation centre.

August/September Umiyaqtutt Festival The annual Umiyaqtutt Festival in Gjoa Haven in late August/early September features feasts, games and cultural demonstrations. The event heralds the discovery of the Franklin shipwrecks HMS Erebus and HMS Terror and the role the Inuit played in locating the long-lost vessels. Also recognized is the Inuit Guardians’ responsibility to protect the ships’ remains as national historic sites, in partnership with Parks Canada.

December Christmas games The darkest days of winter are made brighter thanks to games and events held throughout the Christmas holidays. Traditional competitions, community feasts and talent shows keep everyone busy and communities close-knit throughout the region.

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VISITOR INFORMATION GENERAL INFORMATION Nunavut Tourism Toll-Free: 1-866-NUNAVUT (686-2888) www.nunavuttourism.com

EMERGENCY POLICE: Contact the RCMP in the community you are visiting. Use the area code 867, the community’s three-digit exchange + 1111 for police emergency.

MEDICAL Cambridge Bay has a Regional Health Facility with an expanded range of medical services while other Kitikmeot communities have Local Health Centres.

Contact the Government of Nunavut at 867-975-7859 for more information.

TRANSPORTATION SERVICES AIRLINES Adlair Aviation 1-867-983-2569 Air Nunavut 1-866-388-5888 Canadian North 1-800-661-1505 First Air 1-800-267-1247 Summit Air 1-866-709-7717 GROUND TRANSPORTATION Cambridge Bay - Go Cargo Taxi 867-983-5777 Wolf Tracks Taxi/Amagok Tumi Taxi 867-983-2300 Ziggy’s Taxi 867-983-5775 Gjoa Haven - KWI Services 867-360-7070 Kugluktuk - 867-982-2816 Taloyoak - Nanook Taxi 867-230-0545 34 KITIKMEOT VISITORS GUIDE 2019

INUINNAQTUN TRANSLATIONS Learn what some Kitikmeot Inuit call common objects. aalliak = sled aglu = seal's breathing hole haluuqtuq = hello hiqiniq = sun iglaqtuq = to laugh illuktuq = snowblind imaq = water iqalukpik = Arctic char iritaqtuq = to pluck a bird kingmingnak = cranberry kuugaq = river kuvjaq = fish net mikigaq = raw meat/raw fish mipku = dry meat mittarvik = airport nagjuk = antler/horn naluujaqtuq = to swim nanuq = polar bear nattiq = seal nauttiaq = flower/plant nuna = the land omingmak = muskox patiq = bone marrow pihiq = drum dance song pukuktuq = to pick berries qaajurnaqtuq = cold weather qablunaaq = a white person qajaq = canoe/kayak qanniqtuq = it's snowing qinmiqtuqtuq = to go by dog-team qulliq = soapstone lamp sikiituuq = snowmobile tahiq = lake tiriganniaq = white fox tuktu = caribou tulugaq = raven tupiq = tent tuuq = ice chisel umiaq = boat uujuq = boiled meat

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