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SPRING SUMMER

2017


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PANORAMA FASHION FAIR BERLIN HALL 4 | BOOTH 4.20 HALLE 4 | STAND 4.20 w w w.marc-cain.com


PA N O R A M A BERLIN S TA N D 4 . 0 4 28-30 JUNE

MODE FA BR I E K AMSTERDAM

DISTRICT C - WOMAN 10-11 JULY

CIFF COPENHAGEN S TA N D C 2 - 0 1 6 10-12 AUGUST

AGENTS GERMANY NOR DR H E I N - W E ST FA L E N MODEAGENTUR ER-CE M A R K U S S C H WA R Z +49 -(0) 21317181485 M . S C H WA R Z @ E R - C E . D E BERLIN HA N D E L S V E RT R E T U N G B R I TA DA B E R KO W B R I TA DA B E R KO W +49 -(0)3074004581 B R I TA @ DA B E R KO W- M O D E . D E HAMBURG PA L M D I E A G E N T U R I N G O PA L M +49 -(0)15124021580 M A I L @ A G E N T U R - PA L M . D E SINDELFINGEN SUSANNE SANZ MODEAGENTUR SUSANNE SANZ +49 -(0)1722566365 SANZ@MODEAGENTUR-SANZ.DE ESCHBORN MUM MODEAGENTUR U T E M AY E R +49 -(0)619648526 U. M AY E R @ M U M - AG E N T U R . D E MUNICH MODEAGENTUR SABINE PFISTERER SABINE PFISTERER +49 -(0)1728504491 MODEAGENTURPFISTERER@GMAIL.COM

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Content |

MAGAZ I N E

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J U N E 2 0 16

192 P. 34

In Stores Now & Gorgeous!

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In Stores Now & Gorgeous!

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In Stores Now & Gorgeous!

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In Stores Now & Gorgeous!

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In Stores Now & Gorgeous!

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L E S B E L L E S C I TA D I N E S Sharp City Looks LONG TRAI N R U N N I NG Best of Menswear S T R A N G E R T H A N PA R A D I S E Urban Vibes in the Countryside S O M E W H E R E FA R A W AY Tales from a Thousand and One Nights I S E E YOU R TR U E C OLOR S Colorful Copenhagen

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Legal disclosure |

MAGAZ I N E

PANORAMA FASHION FAIR BERLIN GMBH KURFÜRSTENSTRASSE 12 10785 BERLIN TEL.: +49 30 27 59 560 40 FAX: +49 30 27 59 560 41 PU B LI S H E R

Jörg Wichmann E DITOR

Ralf Strotmeier FA S H I O N

Julia Quante Lara Sörensen-Petersen E DITOR IAL TEAM

Andres Damm Nicole Urbschat Thorsten Osterberger ART DI R ECTION

Dagmar Puzberg GRAPHICS

Johannes Grünberg C ONTR I B UTOR S

Aleksandar Mijatovic Christof Post Edgar Berg Heiko Laschitzki Jane Garber Jennifer Endom Joachim Baldauf Jürgen Müller Karolina Landowski Katrin Weber Oliver Lehner Roman Goebel Shantu Bhattacharjee Tobias Wirth T R A N S L AT O R

Cathy Lara MARKETING

Vanessa Vulcano Magdalena Falkner C O O P E R AT I O N S

Daniela Henn PRINT

Wagemann Medien GmbH Berlin THAN K YOU

C|O Berlin Helmut Newton Foundation COVE R

Photo: Heiko Laschitzki Styling: Heiko Laschitzki & Julia Quante


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Welcome |

MAGAZ I N E

Dear Reader,

W E LC O M E TO PA N O R A M A B E R L I N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 017 !

With 11 halls and 48,000 square meters of exhibition space, we are holding the eighth and biggest edition of PA N O R A M A B E R L I N under the motto Z E I T G E I S T . PA N O R A M A B E R L I N continues to be the marketplace for leading fashion brands – a claim we wanted to extend by replacing the word fashion with the term lifestyle and in the future pursuing a holistic approach. N O V A C O N C E P T in Hall 9 paved the way for this development and is the area where we present a curated selection of trend-setting collections and selected lifestyle products – a concept that we will gradually extend to all the halls and segments. Fashion is something that reflects the zeitgeist in all its facets, whether it’s fashion or music, yoga or traveling, home accessories or food, technical gadgets or mobility. The zeitgeist arouses desire, emotionalizes, innovates and inspires. Since fashion, above all, needs to do one thing: Be fun! We, of course, once again refined our segments. With M A ! N in Hall 2, we present an area that focuses on menswear for the first time. In Hall 5, we have created a dedicated area for accessories and in Hall 8 an area exclusively for shoes. Under the title H I P S TA R , we have dedicated Halls 7A & B to plus-size fashion. With a culinary trip around the world, the F O O D J U N G L E in Hall 7C once again tends to the well-being of our exhibitors and visitors.

With various live acts and special presentations, the outdoor area – located directly at PA N O R A M A B E R L I N ’s entrance – invites you to enjoy some relaxing get-togethers. As always, the PA N O R A M A L E C T U R E S keep you up to date on the latest trends of the new season. It will also be the premiere of PA N O R A M A C AT W A L K S , our new fashion show format. Last but not least, we are once again documenting every single aspect of the entire event for our PA N O R A M A D I G I TA L format, the virtual version of PAN O RAMA BERLIN.

The fashion industry is and will remain “a people’s business,” since connecting with one another and exchanging information, talking, and seeing and being seen are core components of our industry. In this sense, I hope that you find your time here stimulating and enjoyable. Sincerely, Jörg Wichmann


#MBFW

Burning desire. Der neue CLA mit Lucie Von Alten und Eliot Sumner, inszeniert von Christian Larson. www.mercedes-benz.de/fashion


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Service |

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

allyou need

A I R P O R T B E R LI N -T E G E L T X L Shuttle runs

TUE – THU FROM 8.15 AM – 6 PM

/ Departure

OPENING HOURS FOR VI S ITOR S

Tue June 28 9 am – 6 pm Wed June 29 9 am – 6 pm Thu June 30 9 am – 6 pm

EVE RY 20 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 1 5

MINUTES

AI R PORT SXF/ S-B H F B E R LI N-SCHÖN E FE LD Shuttle runs

TUE – THU FROM 8.15 AM – 6 PM

/ Departure

EVE RY 30 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

N AV I G AT I O N A D D R E S S

Messedamm 22, 14055 Berlin

Travel time approx.

30 MINUTES

LO C AT I O N A D D R E S S PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Berlin ExpoCenter City Use the entrance marked “Eingang Süd” on Jafféstraße

A F T E R B R E A K FA S T S H U T T LE B E R L I N H B F  /  S T E I G E N B E R G E R H O T E L , M O T E L O N E K U ‘ D A M M , M A R I T I M P R O A R T E H O T E L B E R L I N

Shuttle runs

TUE – THU FROM 8.15 AM – 10.30 AM

/ Departure

Travel time approx. 1 5

Entrance N O V A C O N C E P T Messedamm, Hall 9 14055 Berlin S E RVICE HOTLI N E

Hotel rooms, flight or train tickets?

EVE RY 15 M I N UTE S

Shuttle runs

TU E - TH U FROM 11 AM – 5 PM

/ Departure

– depending on availability

– 25 MINUTES

EVE RY 15 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 2 0

MINUTES

Whatever you need for visiting PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Herbst/Winter 2016/2017, our PA N O R A M A B E R L I N Hotline Service is always there for you.

SEEK

Shuttle runs

TU E - TH U FROM 11 AM - 5 PM

/ Departure

EVE RY 30 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 3 5

MINUTES

Monday to Friday: 9 am – 6 pm Tel.: +49 (0)30 27 59 560 - 33/- 11 service@panorama-berlin.com

M E R C E D E S - B E N Z FA S H I O N W E E K B E R LI N V E N U E Shuttle runs T U E – T H U F R O M 1 1 A M – Shuttle runs always B E F O R E A N D A F T E R

5 PM TH E S HOWS

– depending on availability

LU G G AG E C H E C K- I N

Professional trade fair visitors to PA N O R A M A B E R L I N who have booked one of our partner hotels will have a special service available to them. In the Welcome Lounge at our trade fair site, your luggage can be dropped off and delivered to the partner hotel that you’ve booked, while you are already holding your first trade show talks. S H UTTLE DE LUXE

At PA N O R A M A B E R L I N , the Mercedes-Benz road show “Fan-Klasse” will combine fashion, elegance and sporty fun. Book your test drive for June 28 & 29 between 10 am and 6 pm as your next Fashion Week hotspot.

Travel time approx. 1 5

CITY WE ST S H UTTLE Shuttle runs

TUE – THU FROM 3 PM – 6 PM

/ Departure

EVE RY 20 M I N UTE S

MINUTES

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 1 5

MINUTES

HALLE 9

CITY EAST S H UTTLE Shuttle runs

TUE – THU FROM 3 PM – 6 PM

/ Departure

EVE RY 20 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 2 5

MINUTES

Travel time approx. 7

MINUTES

HALLE 9

PA N O R A M A B E R LI N A R E A S H U T T LE Shuttle runs continously

TUE – THU FROM 9 AM – 6 PM

SOUTH ENTRANCE

B E R LI N CITY WEST (KURFÜRSTENDAM M)

E NTRANCE HALL 9

B E R LI N CITY EAST (P OTS DAM E R P L AT Z )


All You Need |

SERVICE

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OP-ED |

D I G I TA L

by K A R O L I N A

L ANDOWS K I

Digital Pressure

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The digital transformation is shaking up the industry, affecting every segment, every level, every single participant – and in a completely unprecedented way. The forecasts about our future shopping habits, where we will order, and how we will communicate, these forecasts all outdo each other daily. The customers set the pace and shop wherever and whenever they want to and have long since developed new needs and wants. The customers seek very specific products. They compare, like and evaluate pieces, always getting more impatient and more demanding. “Sold out,” “out of stock” or even “unavailable”: These expressions aren’t part of the vocabulary of the digital era, where unlimited product availability is a given. Transparency, speed and e-commerce put retail stores under increasing pressure. Moreover, the industry needs to develop new strategies. Its presentday challenge is to connect both the online and offline worlds as effectively as possible, in order to even exist in the future. For example, through multichannel marketing and extended shelf life, through digital showrooms,

virtually broadcast fashion shows and shoes that can be designed with an app – or by expanding a whole trade show and putting it on the Internet, which is exactly what PAN O RAMA B E R LI N is breaking new ground with and doing right now. Trade, industry and trade shows urgently need to tread new paths, so they are wherever the customer is – the customer who is increasingly spending more and more time in the virtual world. The media also needs to change. It needs to change its perspective and respond to the new needs of target groups. It needs to make information accessible everywhere and at all times. It needs to make content interactive and break up old patterns of thinking. Finally, a new generation of digital natives is already on the starting line. Their attention span is shorter, but their demands are much greater. What does that mean for you? For us? We will make certain that our magazines address the needs of our readers. We will do so in the firm belief that one thing will not change: Quality pays off – for a fashion collection, a trade show concept, and in journalism.


fashion

update 29 JUNI TH

WEDNESDAY 12.00 P.M.

REGISTER NOW www.step-magazin.de

SPRING/SUMMER 2017

PANORAMA BERLIN

Comma

Lectures Hall / Hall 10 Messe Berlin South Entrance


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Goodie bag |

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Pukka

PECHKEKS

dermalogica

Merci Handy

P U K K A Matcha is the gold among green teas. The new amazing P U K K A varieties with ginseng, fresh lemon and cool mint, which is combined with Matcha green tea, refine the selection offered by British organic tea maker P U K K A Herbs. The eco-conscious company was founded in 2002 by herbsmith Sebastian Pole and entrepreneur Tim Westwell in Bristol – with the aim of helping people enjoy a healthy and happier life through the natural power of plants. P E C H K E K S I D E A L F O R T H E U N L U C K Y A N D L U C K Y, F O R P O W E R F U L W O M E N A N D S U P E R S M A R T T Y P E S , F O R C R Y B A B I E S A N D W I M P S , I R O N L A D I E S A N D T O U G H G U Y S – Actually, these cookies are like getting a left hook, because it’s 100 percent likely that they won’t promise eternal love or millions. The messages are blunt, honest and direct – they take a relentless and pessimistic look into the future. So you have no other choice but to take them with a sense of humor, since they always guarantee one thing: fun! D E R M A L O G I C A Get to know D E R M A L O G I C A and experience the moment your skin changes forever! D E R M A L O G I C A was founded in 1986 – at a time when neon colors prevailed, hair was teased, and beauty was more important than skin health. With simple, functional and discreet packaging, D E R M A L O G I C A caused a stir. “Our products were free from the customary ingredients at the time, which were known to cause skin irritations and allergies. We have always believed in innovation through real research, real ingredients and real results. And our customers believe in their beautiful skin.” M E R C I H A N D Y designs everyday cosmetics with love and tenderness. Their recipes are simple. They just add a touch of humor and a lot of love. After turning hand-cleansing gel into a lifestyle gel, M E R C I H A N D Y is now embarking on a new adventure. Their new challenge: To bring love into refreshing mist. Their mists are alcohol and paraben free and they are tenderly made in France.


TRENDINFO SPRING/ SUMMER 2017

BERLIN

THE LATEST TRENDS IN WOMENSWEAR AND MENSWEAR

JUNE, 28th 2016 - 12:00 AT THE EXPOCENTER CITY LECTURES HALL / HALLE 10 SPEAKERS: GUDRUN ALLSTÄDT AND MICHAEL WERNER (TextilWirtschaft) Doors open at 11:30. Registration is not required. The number of participants is limited. The event will be held in German only. Admission is included in the price of your tradeshow ticket and thus completely free of charge.

www.TextilWirtschaft.de/trendinfo

www. TextilWirtschaft.de


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Goodie bag |

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

#makeitmassive T I G I P R E S E N T S T H E N E W B E D H E A D V O L U M E S U P E R H E R O E S – Volume is a big deal! There’s no question about it. Size does matter. For precisely this reason, Big Head by T I G I brings us four new products for flashier, bolder and even bigger styles. True to the motto #makeitmassive, the globally unique F U L LY L O A D E D ™ shampoo and conditioner care system with its pending patent ensures massive volume – already when you wash your hair! “Go big or go home” – That’s the motto when you style your hair afterwards, when the two volume stylers B I G H E A D ™ and F U L L O F I T ™ create texture, a flexible hold and long-lasting volume. F U L L Y L O A D E D ™ S H A M P O O F O R M A S S I V E V O L U M E The F U L LY L O A D E D ™ Massive Volume Shampoo is the world’s first shampoo with integrated U P L O A D E R ™ technology. With this fantastic, unprecedented technology, the shampoo gives your hair volume you can see and feel. After blow drying your hair, the new technology gives your hair a “volume memory.” Once activated, it gives the hair a form that it can “remember” at any time later in the day. F U L L Y L O A D E D ™ V O L U M I Z I N G C O N D I T I O N I N G J E L L Y Thanks to an incredible shot of F I B E R - T H I C K E N I N G ™ technology, the new F U L LY L O A D E D ™ Conditioning Jelly gives your hair massive volume. Its care power isn’t the only thing that’s amazing; the technology is directly absorbed by the hair, enlarges the diameter of every single strand and makes the hair thicker and more voluminous – simply to love! B I G H E A D ™ V O L U M E B O O S T I N G F O A M This styling foam with a volume booster forms the basis for striking, bold and bigger styles. The L I Q U I D - T O - F O A M formula creates lush contours without making your hair feel heavy. For styles that last all night! F U L L O F I T ™ V O L U M E F I N I S H I N G S P R A Y You’re worried that your hair style won’t make it through the aftershow party? Don’t go nuts. Just lock in your style with F U L L O F I T ™ Volume Finishing Spray! It provides firm but flexible hold – for legendary styles. H T T P : / / W W W . B E D H E A D . C O M / D E


GET THE APP FIND ALL BRANDS, MAP OF THE WHOLE FAIR, SCHEDULE OF ALL EVENTS & EXCLUSIVE SERVICE OFFERS ALL IN YOUR POCKET APP.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM


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Brandnews |

STYLE H U B

With its summer collection, TA L LY W E i J L stokes the festival fire. Whether it’s light and airy fabrics, exciting ethnic prints or lace – this season’s focus is on a seductive gypsy look. With its trendy and expressive styles, designed in the fashion capital of Paris, TA L LY W E i J L always makes fashion that gives its wearers a self-assured look wherever they may be. Founded in Switzerland in 1984, the fashion label is represented worldwide. Today, it has more than 790 stores and 300 corner and shop-in-shops in 37 countries.

TALLY WEiJL

Fritzi aus Preussen

W I T H F R I T Z I R E A DY F O R T H E I S L A N D S U M M E R I N PA R A D I S E

Bright colors, hip adventures and exciting party nights are simply part of the perfect summer – and so is Fritzi aus Preußen. In the Spring/ Summer 2017 collection, bags shine in fancy colors and feature clever, exciting details. The shoes show their romantic side – fine espadrilles with lace inlays and wedges with metallic details set the tone here. For the new apparel looks, biker jackets and destroyed jeans play a key role.

Suri Frey

A S TO R Y TO T E L L – S U R I F R E Y stands for an artist and designer with international roots. She always signs her artworks with a simple Y, which is also the trademark symbol of her entire unique bag collection. S U R I F R E Y ’s life and creative motto is: “The world belongs to those who think Frey (i.e., freely).” Every bag collection has its very own interior lining designed just for it and thus becomes a highly sought-after collector’s item over the years. Think freely and enjoy!


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Brandnews |

STYLE H U B

The name says it all at B . Y O U N G . Because regardless of how old a woman actually is, she always feels young in the Danish brand’s collection. When it comes to personal style, there ultimately is no “right” or “wrong” anyway. And so, the fashion by B . Y O U N G , above all, wants one thing – to inspire. For Spring/Summer 2017, the fresh label does just this with sporty yet feminine looks, graphic flower prints and maritime details, including beautiful shades of blue and natural cotton fabrics.

b.young

fransa

The key trends in the Spring/Summer 2017 collection are small graphic patterns and the ’70s. Mix striped tops with woven suiting pants or cool jeans. Sand, cream, and a new light blue aqua color mix beautifully with navy and black. All types of flowers are another one of summer’s biggest trends: some with a gauzy look with fine leaves and branches and others with large-scale florals. The collections also feature very beautiful two-tone lace designs, which are very feminine. Sand, cream, navy, and a hot spicy red.


Join us on


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Brandnews |

STYLE H U B

re.draft

R E . D R A F T – urban, simple, natural: The new season is characterized by clean styles and hip cuts with a certain understatement. The typical soft feel is assured by soft materials and washed denim fabrics. Subtle colors form the basis of the collection, and a soft green or deep blue provide cool accents. Soft layering, cool comfort and felt-like optics with a sporty feminine touch are highlights of the casual lifestyle.

For the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, was inspired by the nineties look. In keeping with the start of spring and temperatures that are still cool, the product range features a lot of warm, cuddly fabrics and sturdier fabrics. Warm, rich colors like tobacco brown, olive, gray and various shades of blue are brightened by a vibrant, feminine old rosé. The collection’s highlights are the new gingham print and intricate embroidered elements, which are used, among places, in a bomber jacket’s design. S OA K E D I N L U X U RY

SOAKED IN LUXURY Anna Justper

AN NA J USTPE R – „LI FE IS AB OUT TH E MOM E NT“ With this philosophy, the label A N N A J U S T P E R dresses

its customers. This collection for the modern woman with high-quality fabrics such as silk, cotton and viscose features sporty and casually elegant outfits, as well as individual pieces that show a love of detail. The various pieces can always be effortlessly combined anew for every occasion and offer thoughtful fits and high-wearing comfort.


We look for ward to showing you

Spring 17 SEE YOU AT HALL 1 - S TAND 1.07


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Brandnews |

STYLE H U B

On January 7, 2017, the iconic Danish fashion label N Ü will turn 20. To mark its anniversary, NÜ will launch a stunning Spring/Summer 2017 collection with 3 exciting themes. “Dare to Be Different” finds inspiration in muses like David Bowie and Prince, who challenged conventional notions of gender and fashion to celebrate individuality like few others. “Probing the Depths” explores the cool, dark and ever-changing tonalities of an imaginary deep sea dive and the process of slowly emerging onto the cold grey sand. Finally, “Women and Power” answers the question of how to balance femininity and power with a loud and proud “more of both!”

ICHI

With youthful forms that still embody a certain sense of tradition, the label I C H I has found its own identity. The collection for Spring/Summer 2017 is a lively tribute to the sun – Here comes the sun! The floral prints appear in both micropatterns and large-scale prints. Cool white, navy blue and gray meet warmer earth tones and rosé. Very lightweight materials with a refined finish and cotton ensure superior comfort.

KAFFE

K A F F E provides the natural feminine woman with a modern Scandinavian style. The collections consist of timeless classics with beautiful feminine details. Our great fabrics, fits and versatile styles offer an effortless and refined look. K A F F E is a part of DK Company, one of Europe’s leading suppliers of fashion and lifestyle brands. DK Company was founded in 2001 in the heart of the Danish fashion and textile industry in Ikast and employs more than 1,000 people today.


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Brandnews |

STYLE H U B

TRIANGLE T R I A N G L E makes fashion that women feel good in. Because you only radiate confidence if you feel good about yourself. The brand offers casual chic with a casual, feminine coolness – all with comfortable fits that suit your individual lifestyle, your own body and your personal taste. The look is effortless and easy, and thus carries a unique signature. The collection’s signature pieces can be styled to create many looks to suit all kinds of occasions. The collections are enhanced with special capsule themes and matching accessories such as handbags, fashion jewelry, scarves and belts.

Haily’s ZABAIONE

This is as fast as it gets – that’s the motto for the Tam Fashion GmbH. The company presents the Spring/Summer 2017 season opener for the two fashion labels H A I LY ’ S and Z A B A I O N E . Due to the extremely short lead time for the two labels, the range is always up to date – all shops receive the latest new products on average once a week. With its young fashion, H A I LY ’ S addresses a trendy, young target group. The label delivers products to about 1,500 shops throughout Europe on a weekly basis. Z A B A I O N E stands for confident styles for the modern woman in sporty feminine designs. The company currently supplies about 700 POS dealers throughout Europe.


VISIT US H A L L

1 ,

S TA N D

1 . 0 6


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les belles citadines Photography T O B I A S W I R T H Styling J U L I A Q UA N T E


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Eileen left: Coat by C O T TO N C A N DY Top by B R OA D WAY Jeans by I C H I Kirra right: Vest by C O T TO N C A N DY Blouse by I C H I Jeans by B E T T Y & C O


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Jacket by B R OA D WAY Pants by AT E L I E R G A R D E U R Shoes by C O N V E R S E


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Kirra right: Overalls by C O T TO N C A N DY Sweater by T I M E ZO N E Eileen left: Cardigan by O U I Rollneck by M A R C C A I N S P O R T S Pants by B E T T Y & C O


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Cardigan by T I M E ZO N E Top by I C H I Pants by R E . D R A F T


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Suit by I C H I Shoes by D R . M A R T E N S


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Eileen left: Coat & Pants by O U I Shirt by G R E YS TO N E Kirra right: Pants by O U I Jacket & Top by C O T TO N C A N DY


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Coat by M I L E S TO N E Cardigan by B R OA D WAY Pants by A L B E R TO


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Kirra right: Jacket by BSB JE ANS Rollneck by I C H I Pants by R E . D R A F T Eileen left: Overalls by B R OA D WAY Jacket by B E T T Y & C O


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Suit by S . O L I V E R P R E M I U M


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Pants by A L B E R TO Shirt by T I M E ZO N E Cardigan by C O T TO N C A N DY Shoes by A E Y D E


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Kirra left: Shirt by B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R Pants & Cardigan by R E . D R A F T Eileen right: Dress by R I A N I Scarf by B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R


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P H O T O G R A P H E R : T O B I A S W I R T H | | FA S H I O N S T Y L I S T & P R O D U C T I O N : J U L I A Q U A N T E @ P E R F E C T P R O P S H A I R & M A K E U P S T Y L I S T : Y VO N N E W E N G L E R U S I N G M AC A N D D E R M A LO G I C A | | M O D E L : K I R R A J O N A S @ C O R E M O D E L S & E I L E E N H E Y D O R N @ P M A | | S T Y L I N G A S S I S TA N T: S E B A S T I A N S C H WA R Z | | P H O TO G R A P H E R A S S I S TA N T: P H I L L I P H E L M K E

Cardigan by B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R Skirt by C O T T O N C A N DY Shoes by C O N V E R S E


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Eileen left: Leather Jacket by F R E A K Y N AT I O N Pants by O R D I N A R Y T R U F F L E Kirra right: Leather Jacket by C O T T O N C A N DY Pants by AT E L I E R G A R D E U R


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Brandnews |

MA!N

Milestone

The focus is on innovation, comfort and ease. Super soft suede and Napa leather, lightweight down, cotton, jersey and bonded materials dominate. Clean looks contrast with washed, garment-dyed jackets. The shapes range from bombers and blousons to biker jackets and the key piece which is the trench coat. The menswear features new colors such as plum kitten, blue jeans, sage green, spicy camel and chestnut, as well as camouflage patterns and jacquards. With coral pink, bright red, royal blue, orange and denim, the womenswear line sets new impulses.

MAC

With the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the trouser specialist M A C once again demonstrates its passion for innovation, creativity, and its feeling for current trends. It has produced a variety of women’s and men’s trouser styles that don’t just impress through their usual quality materials and multifaceted cuts, but above all through personality, individuality and rich details. So, for example, functional elements from sportswear are used in new ways.

Lerros

FA S H I O N T H AT ’ S S T R A I G H T TO T H E P O I N T – L E R R O S

combines lifestyle and mainstream: on the one hand, a standard of quality and fashion that conveys high-quality and modernity, and is recognizable at first glance. On the other hand, an attractive price. In sum: knowing that you are wearing fashion that is always worth the price.


Venti - smart casual DEPt . ***

V 1924


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MA!N

Venti Smart Casual Dept.

V E N T I S M A R T C A S U A L D E P T. is the must-have of the season. For Spring 2017, the newly created casual line under the slogan “Wear what makes you happy” is captivating. Whether it’s the buttons, collar or cuff – every single part of the shirt and knit/weave collection shows great attention to detail.

Olymp For the O LY M P Spring/Summer 2017 collection, a disregard of strict rules makes new combinations fun and encourages exciting looks. Stripes are the dominant theme in the shirt collections. And being particularly broad makes them particularly bright. The Casual range is mainly characterized by the latest fade out designs and ethnic and workwear influences that meet an intensive, earthy world of color. A new mix-it-up men’s style for cool guys, who like to blend tailored, sporty and casual looks.


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atelier torino The label AT E L I E R TO R I N O presents itself as a brand for the modern man under the slogan “Feel Italian.” Anchored in the world of Italian taste, the brand offers the best fits in all sizes and the best price-performance ratio. The collection’s core competence lies in the jacket and suit areas as well as in the capsule collection AT E L I E R TO R I N O Gala – the semi-formal area for younger customers, for events and business alike.

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Alberto

For the Spring/Summer 2017 Season, A L B E R TO presents boundary-blurring, crossover character pants to suit everyone. Choose from minimalist clean and rough accents to solid colors and colorful allover prints. Elegant pleated models, cropped versions and accurate superfits in denim and cotton are just as captivating here as a range of smart tennis and bike styles with highly functional details that score points both in the urban environment as well as on the court or on the saddle. It’s a matter of pride that the experts who make the pants only use the best materials and work on their perfect tailoring at the highest level and this demonstrates yet again how well A L B E R TO has mastered the art of true delight.


www.milestone-jackets.com 28.06. – 30.06.2016

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

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s.Oliver

B LACK LAB E L M E N

Masculine. Distinguished. Modern. focuses on modern business wear and smart wear: The looks captivate with top-quality materials, high standards of quality and comfort as well as distinguished colors and attention to detail. Seasonal product innovations and developments allow for a wide range of varied and trend-oriented style options. S.OLIVE R B LACK LAB E L M E N

Atelier GARDEUR

Atelier G A R D E U R menswear presents three collection segments: A U T H E N T I C S focuses on genuine allrounders made of authentic denims and flat-weave fabric. The A C T I V E theme is characterized by functional, innovative outer fabrics and sportswear elements, which are best suited for leisure time and holidays. In I TA L I A N S TO R Y , the Italian way of life experiences a revival with selected materials, very noble elements and a wide range of colors and designs. Nuances such as pure linen, soft blue and faded khaki ensure brilliance and summery freshness.


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With a strong team headed by Christian Schütt, the brand N O W A D AY S has been growing steadily since 2012. There is a clear focus on a target group that does not prioritize passing trends: men in the prime of life who love and appreciate the finer things in life. This target group and its success make it clear that N O W A D AY S has defined its values correctly: Simple. Modern. Smart. In a world where information is rapidly disseminated, the hardest thing is to keep things simple. N O W A D AY S stands for the TOTAL LOOK under the creative direction of design head, Lars Malte Boy. The conscious step to exhibit at PA N O R A M A B E R L I N for the first time reinforces the label’s focus on working with local dealers – the “local heroes.” With these partners, N O W A D AY S wants to further establish, strengthen and spread itself.

NOWADAYS


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haupt

Anything but uniform – that’s the trend theme for haupt shirts in Spring/Summer 2017. And that means that stripes, prints and colors are also a must-have for men in the coming summer, while checked shirts continue to be worn as modern interpretations of classics. H A U P T S H I R T S continues to focus on three straightforward and reliable fits: regular, modern and the new body fit – a statement for more clarity on the market.


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W I THOUT LOVE – W H E R E W O U L D YO U B E R IGHT NOW?

long train running Photography J OAC H I M B A L DA U F Styling J A N E G A R B E R


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Left side: Wool Jacket by S 4 J AC K E T S Vest by B U G AT T I Shirt by S I G N U M Scarf by J . P LO E N E S Right side: Sports Jacket by AT E L I E R TO R I N O Jeans Shirt by D E E L U X E E S T.74 Pants by A N E R K J E N D T Handkerchief by D A N I E L H E C H T E R Suspenders by J . P LO E N E S Loafers by M E LV I N & H A M I LTO N Wristband - Vintage


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Left side: Suit, Shirt & Handkerchief by B E N V E N U T O P U R P L E Lace-up shoes by M E LV I N & H A M I LTO N Right side: Knit Jacket & Wool Vest by S . O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L Shirt by O LY M P Jeans by N AG A N O Leather Belt by L LOY D Silk Bow Tie by V E N T I


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Tweed Wool Jacket, Shirt & Lace-Up Shoes by R OY R O B S O N Corduroy Pants B R Ü H L Suspenders & Tie by J . P LO E N E S Hat & Watch - Vintage


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Left side: Merino Wool Jacket & Shirt by S . O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L Bomber Jacket by D E E L U X E E S T. 74 Jeans by N AG A N O Leather Belt by L LOY D Handkerchief by - Vintage Right side: Pinstripe Suit by B E N V E N U TO B L AC K Fleece Jacket by C A S A M O DA Lace-Up Shoes by M E LV I N & H A M I LTO N Handkerchief by S . O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L


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Jacket & Vest by C L U B O F G E N T S Pants by AT E L I E R G A R D E U R


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Left side: Wool Jacket & Jeans by D I G E L M O V E Shirt by S I G N U M Tie by D I G E L Glasses - Vintage Right side: Velvet Jacket & Pants by B E N V E N U TO P U R P L E Lace-Up Shoes by M E LV I N & H A M I LTO N Turtleneck and Glasses - Vintage


P H O TO G R A P H E R : J OAC H I M B A L D A U F | | S T Y L I S T : J A N E G A R B E R G R O O M I N G : A N N A B R Y L L A | | M O D E L : A L E X L I B BY @ S E L E C T M O D E L S A S S I S TA N T P H O TO G R A P H E R : PAT R I C E B R Y L L A | | S T Y L I N G A S S I S TA N T : V I C T O R I A B E C K

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Forever Young LI FESTYLE

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by A N D R E S DA M M

CLASS IS FOR EVE R

WHAT’S IT REALLY LIKE TO BE THE OLDEST EMPLOYEE AT THE WORKPLACE? THIS IS A QUESTION MOST PEOPLE WILL BE ABLE TO ANSWER SHORTLY BEFORE RETIREMENT, BUT THERE ARE FIELDS WHERE THIS ISSUE CROPS UP AS EARLY AS AGE 35. IN THE FASHION, NIGHTLIFE AND COSMETICS INDUSTRIES, YOUTH IS YOUR GREATEST ASSET AND YET, THERE ARE PEOPLE IN THESE FIELDS WHO ARE WELL INTO THEIR ADULT YEARS AND FOR PRECISELY THAT REASON HAVE BECOME ICONS IN THEIR FIELD.

We have learned that we must avoid “signs of aging” as much as possible or at least effectively conceal them – and it’s not the cosmetics industry alone that constantly preaches this. The notion of seemingly eternal youth abounds in many other fields as well. On the world’s catwalks, there no longer seems to be an age limit – at least not downwards. Women, or rather, seemingly prepubescent girls whose breasts, hips and buttocks aren’t even developed yet – are the first choice for most labels when it comes to presenting outrageously expensive apparel on boyish bodies. What does it feel like to be 84 and to work in an industry where 20-year-old competitors are told they are too old? Carmen dell’Orefice is the world’s oldest top model and is celebrating her 70th work anniversary this year. She graced her first Vogue cover in 1947, at a time when hardly any of the many famous photo­ graphers who have photographed her or any of her current clients were born yet. It should be mentioned that her career started with a top-level client list that didn’t get any less illustrious over the years. Today, dell’Orefice only stands in front of the camera for luxury labels like Missoni and Alberta Ferreti. She definitely isn’t doing commercials for false teeth or stairlifts. In interviews, Carmen dell’Orefice has been incredibly honest about what motivated her to continue

working into such an old age. She already left modeling twice and twice she had to begin again – due to financial hardship. In fact, one could say it was financial fraudster Bernie Madoff who made her the oldest model in the world. He was the one who embezzled almost all of her assets. In 2008, at age 78, dell’Orefice learned that she was broke. Her reaction? A long interview with the American magazine, Vanity Fair, about her financial losses and human disappointment, because privately she was also a close friend of Madoff ’s. The interview seemed to be a signal to the fashion world that the model was available again. There were booking inquiries from Paris, Milan and New York, and dell’Orefice suddenly took center stage in the industry again, gracing various advertising campaigns, magazine covers and even catwalks. Today, she has more bookings than many of her colleagues who are 70 years younger. The 84 year old effortlessly deals with the enormous physical burdens that are part of the modeling profession. Her good genes aren’t just apparent in her appearance. Long days, extreme weather conditions

and frequent travel aren’t obstacles for her. But she once said there’s only one reason why she’d turn down a job: If it endangered her sense of dignity. The luxury watchmaker Rolex hit the nail on the head with a text in an ad a few years ago: The words “Class is forever” were displayed next to the very elegant, white-haired and seductive but in no way lewd Carmen dell’Orefice, who was gazing into the camera. DECISION-MAKERS

Ever since the techno club Berghain first opened its doors in 2004, Sven Marquardt has been the man who decides who gets in and who doesn’t. Starting in the early ’90s at Ostgut, Berghain’s predecessor, the East Berlin native was already busy deciding who can party and who can’t. Those who have had the dubious pleasure of waiting in line at Berghain at 4 in the morning for two hours know how existential Marquardt’s decision can be. He’s the one who makes or breaks your weekend in Berlin – regardless if you came from Los Angeles, Barcelona, Prague, or just from Prenzl’Berg. In over 20 years, Marquardt has become an icon of Berlin’s nightlife and is meanwhile


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known outside of Berlin and even Germany. This is partly due to his unmistakable look, and partly because Berghain and he mutually increase each other’s cult effect. Although Berghain is not open every day, as the club’s doorman it must feel like you’re flying through a completely different time zone once a week. In other words, total jetlag. Berghain’s doorman is also omnipresent outside the nightlife world. He collaborated with a major fashion label that printed his photos on T-shirts and in winter is showing his latest photos in cooperation with Auerbach, a Berlin tie-maker. The night also plays a central role in these photos. The exhibition’s title is “Black dogs run at night.” Although Marquardt, whose huge face graces the side of a Berlin building, wasn’t the subject this time but the photographer, somehow there seems to be a parallel or two to the life of Germany’s first doorman…


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LI FESTYLE

surroundings. That offended a lot of people. But you also learn from things like that, so “no regrets” applies here too. Is age just a number or an important component when it comes to lifestyle?

You have made a name for yourself far beyond Berlin’s borders. One could even say you have attained cult status – the same is true for Berghain. How do you think someone becomes a cult figure?

You yourself can’t decide if something’s going to attain cult status. Instead, people from the outside decide that. To consciously try to create it will definitely backfire, since attempts like this usually look pretentious or embarrassing. If there’s even a recipe for it, I think it contains two important ingredients: authenticit y and integrity. When it comes down to it, it is essential that you remain true to yourself. This applies to a club as well as to brands or musicians. What do you do differently today that you didn’t do 20 years ago? Are there things you regret or that you regard as a typical error of your youth?

Twenty years I dreamed about traveling around the world with my photos. Today, I live that dream. I’m damn grateful for that! Regrets? In the nineties I had a tattoo made that says “NO REGRETS!” At the time, it might have served as a type of warning for me. Today, there’s really next to nothing that I regret. An exception is perhaps that it was quite late in life that I started taking responsibility for myself, my friends and my

You are a true native of Berlin. How has that shaped you?

I spent exactly half of my life in East Berlin and the other half in freedom – great. Inside the borders we, too, were free in the eighties. But after the fall of the Wall, to experience a city with two opposing systems growing together – that was incredibly fascinating and exciting. At some point, all the hype about Berlin started to get on my nerves. A lot fell by the wayside. But it’s probably normal that things always keep changing. Professionally, you are active in different fields. You wrote a book and you are a successful photographer. What inspires you?

I have been taking photos for 30 years and have already been working in Berlin’s club scene for over 20 years. My autobiography was a brief excursion into literature. It was an attempt to tell a Berlin story. I was inspired by everything I do and did, by my attitude towards life, by this city … Berlin.

What links all your professions together?

II have always only photo­ graphed people and what makes my bouncer job so special? The people! What do you think your future will be like in 20 or 30 years?

Regardless of a certain point in time, the day will one day come that might change everything?! That’s when there’s something or the other you can’t keep doing the way you used to. But who knows beforehand what that will be like? I hope that I can keep doing what I’m doing now for as long as possible.

Photo: René von Wegen

When asked about his own fame, Marquardt is very modest. We met up with the icon of Berlin’s nightlife for an interview.

Of course, a person’s consciousness changes with time. The time that remains suddenly becomes more precious, more finite. Thirty years ago, you never thought you would become older than 40. Everything seemed so endless. Beauty and transience: I think about this a lot more today. In a material sense, little has changed for me. I still don’t have a life insurance policy. I have always wondered what it actually is.


Come and visit us Hall 2 Stand 20 The symbol of accessible luxury DAMAT brings a new perspective to perfection in design, tailoring and detail with its “Superfine Wool” category fabrics which are the magnificent concourse of Australian and New Zealand Merino wool that is manufactured in limited numbers every year by Italy’s numbered fabric manufacturers. The contemporary style of TWEEN will help you push the limits of your creativity while creating your style. The modern touch of elegance will help you put your difference forward and define your style Contact : Mr Ayhan Gokmen

T: 00 49 172 2503186

e-mail:export@damat.com.tr


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URBAN LAB

MUSTANG Men For the Spring /Summer Season, M U S TA N G focuses on authentic menswear colors: Navy, khaki, black, gray and some shades of red comprise the collection’s color palette. For the denims, the motto is: All easy products! Uncomplicated and timeless pieces that men can always wear – no matter what they do. As a result, straight and tapered fits are once again the most important fits for pants. The current trend can be seen in very comfortable and relaxed cuts. The washes are also more toned down and authentic. Strong destroy effects yield to clean, almost unwashed denims. The emphasis is on materials like cotton and dual-core cotton as well as non-elastic fabrics. The tops in the men’s collection are limited to the essentials: Longsleeve shirts, shirts and jersey sweaters define the look.

MUSTANG Women

The brand was inspired by the seventies and nineties and by a strong desire for freedom and independence. These days denim is about comfort: For women, this season again revolves around super soft fabrics, which are softer than ever before for Spring/Summer. Power-stretch, bi-stretch and dual core provide the ultimate wearing comfort. These new innovative technologies guarantee a perfect fit and the jeans don’t lose their shape. Visually, the vintage look is decisive: denims with destroy effects that look like they have already been worn a few times are still popular.


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URBAN LAB

CROSS JEANS is a European denim and lifestyle brand that was founded in the early 1990s. Innovation is one of the major driving forces that inspires us daily to design top-quality denim collections. Tradition and visions, craftsmanship and modernity, functionality and vintage inspirations are just some of the elements that influence our designs. Today, the C R O S S J E A N S denim collections are available in over 2,000 sales points throughout Europe.

CROSS JEANS

Born of humble Mancunian roots in the year 2000, C R O S S H AT C H started life as a denim and T-shirt brand defining itself from the crowd with illustrative graphics, bold color and innovative denim styles. Within months, the brand became a major player in independent and key national retailers. C R O S S H AT C H has always taken its inspiration from the scene that surrounds it and with Manchester being a hotbed of young talented musicians, DJs and art venues, ideas and direction are always just around the corner. C R O S S H AT C H Clothing – Forward Thinking.

CROSSHATCH


COLORADO-DENIM.COM///VISIT US AT BOOTH 3.15


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COLORADO DENIM

has been making pure denim since 1976. We are a denim brand with a pioneering and innovative spirit and we have always gone our own way. We love what we do: denim and casual wear from the best fabrics and materials, with high-quality workmanship, fairly priced, produced sustainably – with jeans in authentic washes and styles, always trendy, always in perfect fits and never ordinary; with individual, versatile collections for women, men and children: basics, casual wear, classics and special pieces, combined with one another and created from the material that turns them into favorites. C O LO R A D O D E N I M

PME LEGEND P M E L E G E N D celebrates the rugged life of the cargo pilot, with a collection inspired by the iconic propliners they f ly. This year P M E L E G E N D f lies you from the cold misty fjords into spring season. The cargo pilot just landed on a big lake in Alaska, to camp in a cabin with fresh air and a rocky mountain view. The Spring/Summer 2017 collection combines organic and geometric shapes, enhanced with reinforcements.


Come and visit! True Denim in hall 3 shop online mustang-jeans.com


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stranger than paradise Photography H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I Styling J U L I A Q U A N T E &

H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I

WHERE A DEGREE OF AFFECTION GROWS BE T WEEN THE T WO

He: Sweatshirt by M U S TA N G Jacket by F R E A K Y N AT I O N She: Long Pullover by B S B J E A N S


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Jacket by C R O S S J E A N S Pullover by B R OA D WAY


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He: Sweatshirt by M U S TA N G Jacket by F R E A K Y N AT I O N Shoes by D R . M A R T E N S Pants by C O LO R A D O Belt by R OY R O B S O N She: Long Pullover by B S B J E A N S Shirt by T I M E ZO N E Shoes by V I D O R R E TA


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Jacket by F R E A K Y N AT I O N Long Top & Pants by B S B J E A N S T-shirt by B E T T Y & C O


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Long-sleeve T by M U S TA N G Shirt by R E . D R A F T Coat by B U G AT T I


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Jacket underneath by B R OA D WAY Sports Jacket & Shoes by R OY R O B S O N Pants by A L B E R TO


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Blouse by R I A N I Jeans Shirt by C R O S S J E A N S


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Pullover & Jacket by M U S TA N G Pants by R A F FA E L LO R O S S I Shoes by VAG A B O N D


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Sports Jacket by AT E L I E R T O R I N O Pullover & Pants by D A N I E L H E C H T E R Shoes by D R . M A R T E N S


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Jacket by M U S TA N G Shirt & Pants by G R E YS TO N E Boots by D R . M A R T E N S


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Tights by B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R Shorts by C R O S S J E A N S T-shirt & Shirt by C O LO R A D O


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She: Blouse by M U S TA N G Pants by M U S TA N G Shoes by VAG A B O N D He: Jacket by F R E A K Y N AT I O N T-shirt by B R OA D WAY Pants by M U S TA N G


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Hat by M A R C C A I N S P O R T S Coat by M I L E S TO N E Pullover by M A R C C A I N


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Pullover by M A R C C A I N Pants by M U S TA N G Shoes by VAG A B O N D


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He: Jacket by C R O S S J E A N S Pullover by B R OA D WAY Pants by M U S TA N G She: Shirt by R E . D R A F T Jacket by M U S TA N G Pants by C R O S S J E A N S


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She: Shirt by M U S TA N G Overalls by B S B J E A N S Shoes by D R . M A R T E N S He: Pants by M U S TA N G Cardigan by O R D I N A R Y T R U F F L E Shirt by B R OA D WAY Boots by D R . M A R T E N S


Hose von T R A M O N TA N A Jäckchen von F R O G B OX Lederhemd R I N O & P E L L E Top von B S B J E A N S

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Jacket by C O LO R A D O Pants by R A F FA E L LO R O S S I Pullover by M A R C C A I N S P O R T S


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Coat by B S B J E A N S Shirt by G R E YS TO N E Pants by A L B E R TO Shoes by D R . M A R T E N S


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Bomber Jacket by M U S TA N G Denim Jacket & Pants by C O LO R A D O


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Pullover by

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Shirt by C R O S S J E A N S Pants by M U S TA N G


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T-shirt by B R OA D WAY Hoodie by G R E YS TO N E Pants by D A N I E L H E C H T E R


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He: T-shirt by G R E YS TO N E Pants by A L B E R TO She: T-shirt by C O LO R A D O Pants by G R E YS TO N E

P H O T O G R A P H E R : H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I | | FA S H I O N S T Y L I S T & P R O D U C T I O N : H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I & J U L I A Q UA N T E H A I R & M A K E U P S T Y L I S T : L AT I S H A N I C H O L S O N C / O B LO S S O M M A N AG E M E N T | | M O D E L : N E V E C A F F R E Y C / O M O D E L T E A M U K & A A R O N C / O V I VA M O D E L S B E R L I N | | T H A N K S TO J E N ’ S S K AT E B OA R D R E N TA L


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Interview |

HUMAN RESOURCES

Selling is becoming more challenging

E V E RYO N E I S TA L K I N G A B O U T D I G I TA L T R A N S F O R M AT I O N . B U T W H AT D O E S T H AT M E A N F O R P EO P L E I N T H E FA S H I O N B U S I N E S S ? “ T H E FA S H I O N I N D U S T RY W I L L S E E T H E C R E AT I O N O F N E W P O S I T I O N S A N D J O B P R O F I L E S T H AT H AV E N E V E R B E F O R E E X I S T E D,” S AYS J Ü R G E N M Ü L L E R , F O U N D E R O F S U I T S . Interview R A L F S T R O T M E I E R

Let’s talk about digital transformation. Isn’t that the issue that everyone is preoccupied with at the moment?

It’s definitely the latest thing consultants and the media are making a big fuss about. Does that mean we can all sit back and relax?

No, not at all. Of course, digitization is changing a lot of things. But one thing is certain: The retail world will change more dramatically in the next ten years than it has in the past 30 years. Are the companies ready for this change?

They’re not ready enough yet. It has opened the door to new players. Ten years ago, Amazon was still a small fish. Today, in Germany, Amazon’s online store makes over €10 billion in sales. And in the case of Zalando, everyone has always been reassured by the fact that the company will disappear one day due to permanent losses; billions from investors were used to buy

market shares that were then converted into cash in the initial public offering. All the turmoil we, for example, currently see in the shoe retail trade is probably largely related to the rise of these two players. But isn’t it too late to imitate Amazon at this point?

Each player has to find its own answer to this new competition. It’s about seeing or anticipating the changes. And it’s about using the opportunities that technology offers – in communication, in organization, and not just in sales. Is omnichannel retailing the answer?

Those with multiple sales channels definitely have an advantage in the customer’s eye. It’s hard to say if this makes up for the added complexity. If the channels aren’t perfectly

linked together, and they rarely are, then it can also lead to disappointment. On the other hand, customers who buy online will always expect more from “their” stores. Even if you don’t aspire to be the next Amazon, you will have to offer this service. Why is it so hard for many companies to deal with the new world?

There are many reasons. A very important one is that the decision-makers were hired for their positions at a time when a different type of knowledge and different skills were required. Since they usually lack an understanding for this other type of business, they are neither willing nor able to hand over their responsibilities to the younger generation that is at home in the digital world. And even if businesspeople and top managers want this to happen, it is hampered by rigid organi­ zations, cost structures and profitability targets. It’s actually also a generational conflict that’s taking place here.


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So what should the established companies do?

They should get involved as investors, the way that Otto, Burda and Tengelmann do, and hope that one or two of ten startups will really take off one day. Or take over wellfunctioning online players at the right time, the way Neiman Marcus took over mytheresa.com. Or outsource your own startup activities to completely independent units equipped with suff icient capital, the way Migros did with m-way or Otto with the Collins Project. It won’t work in structures that are already developed. What does digitization mean for people in the fashion business?

Jürgen Müller is the founder and managing partner of Munich-based S U I T S ., one of the leading HR consulting firms for the fashion and lifestyle business. Before starting his second life as a consultant, Müller worked for “TextilWirtschaft” for over 20 years, and from 2006 to 2011 as the editor-in-chief. Müller has outstanding industry know-how and an almost unrivaled network in the fashion business. As an HR consultant, he and his team fill top international positions in retail, wholesale and e-commerce. His clients include global corporations as well as medium-sized family companies. The agency also works for fashion industry service providers such as shopfitters, consultancies, agencies and media as well as private equity firms. Jürgen Müller has accompanied the industry as a journalist to this day: as the author of the fashion business blog “Profashionals.”

It means that new positions and job profiles will be created that never before existed in retail. Agile coaches and big data architects will be sought – or community managers and digital experience specialists. That’s firstly positive. Zalando alone currently has ads up for over 350 jobs. But new job descriptions will also be needed for traditional jobs. For example?

The salesperson job will get much more demanding. The online world will assume functions that are actually the domain of brick-and-mortar retailers. It even invented curated shopping. But for most chains, salespeople no longer act as customer advisors – instead, all they do is tidy up. Outfittery & Co. have entered this open area. A lot of investment is also going into the area of visual merchandising – exciting shops as a counter project to the soullessness of online shopping. Creatives are needed here.

How are the framework conditions changing for buyers?

The verticalization has already led to the fact that, today, with the shrinking market share for multilabel retailers, there are also fewer buyers. Instead, product management handles the work related to merchandising planning, design and sourcing. At Amazon, the buyer isn’t someone who fiddles around with fabric or a trend expert, but an analyst who makes data-based decisions. That’s not good news for passionate buyers.

It will just be different. Real fashion retailers will have to continue having “truffle pig” qualities. We need that as well as the creative designers, who always have an eye out for trends and influence them as well. Otherwise, there’s no progress. Fashion always begins in small numbers, in a niche with a small few. Trends are firstly small data. When they become big data, they’re mainstream. The Internet will only speed up this process. Thank you for the talk.


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MARC CAIN

MARC CAI N LAU NCH E S FITWEAR CAPS U LE COLLECTION

Coupled with a healthy lifestyle, sports are modern and booming like never before. In the new Spring/ Summer 2017 Season, Marc Cain is launching his first Fitwear Capsule Collection that combines cool functionality, elegance and comfort. The collection consists of shorts, leggings, bustiers, blousons as well as vests and zipper jackets that can all be combined perfectly with each other. Bold colors, leoflage and flower-petal prints dominate.


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OUI

O U I loves women – and wants to make them more beautiful! Beauty is more than an ideal. We all have our own image of what beauty is. It is as unique, diverse and wonderful as life itself. The woman, who wears O U I , is self-confident, open and unique. She does not follow rules and is free from prejudice. O U I is a brand where family, solidarity, tradition and customer service come first and play an essential role. This creates a tremendous sense of responsibility towards the people who work for the brand, or come into contact with it. As a product specialist, O U I ’s collection focuses on knitwear. The brand continues to very carefully cultivate its mesh innovations and further develop the decades of experience and expertise it already has in this area. Of course, the other product categories that round off the collection do not fall short. So O U I has also established itself over the past 60 years in the shirt, dress, pants, blazer and jacket areas and has dynamically gained market shares. O U I has over 1,000 points of sale in Germany and 1,500 abroad. Since 2010, the world of O U I can also be explored online at shop.oui.com.


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ana alcazar

The Munich label A N A A LC A Z A R knows no limits when it comes to creatively using materials in the coming season. The design duo Beate and Jutta Ilzhöfer skillfully process shiny Lurex yarns, weave fabrics in such a way that they take on exciting sequin-like scale looks, and help soft cupro make a very special appearance. The brand demonstrates that it is politically correct: not only in the use of fair production conditions but in the decision to not use real fur and real leather.

tonno & panna

Cool, clean and now also casual. The label has meanwhile established itself as a brand for premium shirts and has won many fans. For the new season, TO N N O & PA N N A presents casually washed looks in fine cotton voile fabric. The striking and typical TO N N O & PA N N A look remains important. The collection continues to focus on white blouses in highquality stretch fabrics. Informative prints and trendy stripes underscore the fashion statement. Sometimes it’s so simple ...

Stehmann

Color explosion: For women’s trousers specialist S T E H M A N N , Summer 2017 is all about colors and prints. Funky orange and crazy pink alternate with pastel tones in soft rosé, new blue and lollipop. Inspired by the seventies, the boot cut comes to the fore as a cropped flare. Besides strong, slim versions, S T E H M A N N offers a variety of styles to choose from, including boyfriend cuts, jogging pants and refined wrap looks – casual, glamorous and with attention to detail.


LaSalle Amsterdam

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Luisa Cerano

stands for a high-quality outfit collection with clear contours and undisputedly enjoys high market acceptance in the premium segment. L U I S A C E R A N O is an absolute must for the modern woman who only wears what suits her personal style. The themes are exciting: sophisticated and expressive, smart and surprising, feminine and exceptional – of course, always with a touch of modern zeitgeist in every style. The new Spring/Summer 2017 collection is characterized by an innovative mix of styles: feminine, cool, luxurious, unexpected – often broken up by playful-sporty elements. Botany, for example, is the inspiration behind the feminine luxury looks, which stand beside cool, dynamic, linear statements. The use of high-quality materials and the playful use of innovative details set new accents. Cuts and silhouettes are implemented in a thoughtful, sophisticated way. Cool neutrals such as anthracite and platinum meet and contrast with warm gold tones, honey tones and eggshell. White and off-white bring fresh accents. Soft terracotta tones go hand-in-hand with cool black, and indigo jeans shades contrast with cool neutrals such as limestone and canvas. LUISA CERANO


PANORAMA Berlin Halle 4 | Stand 27 Malvin Halle 7B | Stand 19 OPEN END Modefabriek, Amsterdam 10 - 11.Juli

Düsseldorf DFH2 | M003 EG Early Strick 10. – 11.Juli CPD 22. – 25.Juli

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MALVIN

Non Stop is a family-run fashion company from Hamburg that was founded in 1987. Both M A LV I N and the plus-size label O P E N E N D are known far beyond Germany’s borders. The collections are something like the total fashion allrounder. Essential in any wardrobe, they suit every style and have a unique look that reflects the current zeitgeist with its emphasis on feminine, confident women. Next summer stands entirely under the symbol of hope. Green wins.

Emily van den Bergh

Always in time... The blouse label in the new mainstream segment offers five delivery dates for the season with casual, playful and lovingly detailed blouses. In addition, short-term trends are offered as quickshots. Whether prints, solids or stripes – the collection’s statement is always multifaceted and diverse. The design always focuses on the typical, popular and successful E M I LY- V A N - D E N - B E R G H look. For the height of the summer, the beach theme has been expanded to include ornate tunics. In short: a collection that is simply fun.


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LaSalle

Since 1991 L A S A L L E has been offering iconic luxury essentials for a timeless and effortless sophistication. Carefully selected natural materials ensure high quality for a reasonable price. We are proud to say that our collection is almost exclusively Made in Europe. We work closely with suppliers, who are highly skilled, often with traditional artisanal skills. We also believe that we should be gentle to our environment. Our mission is by 2020 to have 70% of our clothing made of materials that are environmentally friendly.

Summum Woman A fashion label for the modern woman with her own strong opinion and a pronounced sense of style – for the cosmopolitan woman who makes her own decisions, who doesn’t restrict herself to the latest trends, but loves to experiment and boldly implement her own ideas. No other fashion brand knows how to combine styles, fabrics and colors in such a daring way, creating a magnificent signature look – that of the S U M M U M W O M A N : a cool “Amsterdam look” with international appeal.


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B EAUTY

ZENOLOGY

Hierbas de Ibiza

Le Baigneur

AVEDA S O A P S T A R Until a few years ago, no one took soap seriously and many people were only familiar with the kind of soap that’s used for everything – the good old soap bar. But it’s not just the look that has changed for the new soaps. They also have something to offer when it comes to ingredients and soaps made with natural formulas are experiencing a comeback in many bathrooms in 2016. Z E N O L O G Y The hand soap provides a truly holistic care experience with the aroma of green mandarin. The cleansing cream foam is smooth and gentle. To maintain a perfect moisture balance for the skin, the recipe contains valuable ingredients as well as a protective Aloe vera extract. This provides the skin with vitamins C and E that penetrate deep into the skin for healthy, radiant hands. Liquid hand soap | “Cleansing Hand Wash” by ZENOLOGY | seen at bellerebelle.de | 500 ml | €35 H I E R B A S D E I B I Z A Similar to the famous sea salt, the “white gold” of Ibiza that has been made for centuries on the island, the fine, white hand soap captivates with its sophisticated purity. Handmade and 100 percent plant-based, the two main components of the gently perfumed soap are glycerin and Aloe vera extract, which is taken from Hierbas de Ibiza’s own plantation. Mediterranean herbs, including sage, thyme, lavender and spices such as cinnamon and vanilla create an expressive and unique feeling on your skin. “Toilet Hand Soap” by Hierbas de Ibiza | seen on dsq206.com | 2 x 100 g | €20 L E B A I G N E U R Luxurious relaxation: The mild soap for dry skin with precious hemp oil is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins. Green clover soothes while a delicate bitter orange fragrance and cedarwood oil have a relaxing effect on the body, mind and soul – especially through their aromas. Shaving also becomes a unique ritual with Le Baigneur. The soap comes in a porcelain bowl made by the famous French manufacturer Limoges. The noble shaving soap contains healing calendula extract, which prevents razor burn. Hemp oil, Aloe vera and green clover also make tough guys soft – at least as far as the skin goes. Hand soap | “Relaxing Soap” by Le Baigneur | 100 g | €10 | and shaving soap “Savon à Barbe No.1” by Le Baigneur | €39 | seen on soulobjects.de A V E D A It’s like an herbal massage for the skin: That describes the moisturizing and invigorating soap “Rosemary Mint Bath Bar” by Aveda. The creamy foam with Mediterranean notes of rosemary and peppermint, which come from controlled biological cultivation, cleanses and nourishes the skin, while rosemary and peppermint leaf powder lightly exfoliates. Soap | “Rosemary Mint Bath Bar” by Aveda | seen on ludwigbeck.de | 200 g | €15


LUISA CERANO SHOWROOM KAISERSWERTHER STRASSE/ KARL-ARNOLD-PLATZ 1 40474 DÜSSELDORF HEAD OFFICE LUISA CERANO GMBH WEBERSTRASSE 1 72622 NÜRTINGEN · GERMANY PHONE +49(0)7022/705-140 INFO@LUISACERANO.DE WWW.LUISACERANO.COM


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Dr. Bronner’s Liquid Soap diptyque paris atelier Cologne

BYREDO Apomanum D I P T Y Q U E P A R I S The luxurious combination of spicy elements with hints of damp moss and black currant, rounded off by the aroma of sun-dried fig leaves, leaves a touch of French summer freshness on the skin. When you close your eyes, it feels like you are walking through the French capital. You can literally feel the atmosphere of the city, pardon, I mean smell. Soap “34” by Diptyque Paris | seen on ludwigbeck.de | 200 g | €30 A T E L I E R C O L O G N E Summery freshness with the aroma of blood orange is provided by the hand soap “Orange Sanguine” by Atelier Cologne. It is hard pressed, made from plants and enriched with a unique combination of soothing Aloe vera and nurturing shea butter. A high concentration of citrus oils offers a clean, refreshing and invigorating experience with a delicate soap foam that does not dry out the skin and makes it silky smooth. Soap | “Orange Sanguine” by Atelier Cologne | seen on greenglam.de | 200 g | €20 D R . B R O N N E R ’ S L I Q U I D S O A P As simple as it gets: Thanks to being completely free of artificial fragrances, preservatives and synthetic foam builders, the liquid hand soap by Dr. Bronner’s is ideal for people with allergies or sensitive skin. Packaged in 100 percent recycled plastic bottles, it pampers the skin with nourishing, natural ingredients such as coconut oil and olive oil. Liquid soap by Dr. Bronner’s | seen on wheadon.de | 230 ml | €10.95 B Y R E D O The Paris of the ’20s was infatuated with Africa’s magic, culture, art and music. Byredo takes up all these elements with fragrances like violet, jasmine, vetiver and African marigold. The soaps are lovingly made by hand in Sweden and wrapped in pure white paper before they go anywhere. Soap “BAL D’AFRIQUE” by BYREDO | seen on bellerebelle.de | 150 g | €20 A P O M A N U M Bavarian food is known to make your stomach turn. The hand soap by the southern German manufacturer, however, is made with Bavarian water mint and tends to agree with you – because the special care formula made of mint, essential oils and rich cocoa butter is not only extremely nourishing for the skin, but also gives you a real kick of freshness, which leaves you feeling clean and good for 24 hours. Soap | “Wasserminze” (water mint soap) by Apomanum | seen on greenglam.de | 100 g | €7.50


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Jacket by M O S M O S H Top by M A R C C A I N Top worn on Top by N OA N OA Pants by B A R B A R A B E C K E R Shoes by A E Y D E

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P H O TO G R A P H E R : E D G A R B E R G @ K L E I N P H O TO G R A P H E N | | P R O D U C T I O N : SY LV I A A H R E N S @ T H E S H O O T T R A I N C O M PA N Y FA S H I O N S T Y L I S T & C O N C E P T : J U L I A Q UA N T E @ P E R F E C T P R O P S | | H A I R & M A K E U P : D E N N I S B R A N D T U S I N G C H A N E L A N D R E D K E N / B I G O U D I | | M O D E L : A N N I E K KO R T L E V E @ S E E D S | | S T Y L I N G A S S I S TA N T : S E B A S T I A N S C H WA R Z

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More & More The fashion label M O R E & M O R E from Bavaria has been around for over 33 years. The international name says it all – the Starnberg textile company currently sells its fashion in 14 countries. Every month, M O R E & M O R E brings a new, fresh collection to stores – a stylish and balanced overall package from feminine business attire to casual leisure wear to the hottest fashion must-haves. If you head to M O R E & M O R E “just” for a new business look, you definitely won’t go home without another new fashion favorite. In the coming spring and summer, M O R E & M O R E wows us with casual layering looks, new lace optics, and as usual with a variety of eye-catching prints.

s.Oliver B LACK LAB E L WOM E N

Feminine. Distinguished. Modern. S . O L I V E R B L A C K L A B E L stands for easy looks that always go hand in hand with a certain nonchalance. Modern influences are transformed into wearable looks and impress with high-quality materials, high wearing comfort, outstanding color statements as well as a love of detail. Seasonal product innovations and developments allow for a wide range of varied and trend-oriented style options. WOM E N


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Apart

Fashion inspires, arouses feelings, and nowadays, above all, needs to be suitable for the various spheres of the customer’s life. A PA R T has been selling fashion for over 40 years that accompanies the customer through the day, connecting the different spheres of life. The brand makes fashion where zeitgeist, quality, innovation, and superior combinability share a common denominator: creative color schemes, high-quality materials and a market-oriented sense of styling. These factors all form the basis of the new A PA R T collections which have a high identification potential. A PA R T – “from business to glamour” with particular attention to detail.

Bianca

There are only two days in your life that you cannot change: One is yesterday, the other is tomorrow... “Every Day in Lifetime” is the headline for the new season. So it follows that the new collection is versatile. Often ethnically inspired, it features details from different style worlds that are combined to create a modern look that simply makes sense. Color continually sets new important accents.


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Are we in the midst of a

fashion revolution? by N I C O L E U R B S C H AT

S O M E B R A N D S H AV E R EC E N T LY S TA R T E D S E L L I N G T H E FA S H I O N S J U S T S H OW N O N T H E C AT WA L K . F O R M A N Y, T H AT B R E A K S WITH CHERISHED BUSINESS T R A D I T I O N S . F O R OT H E R S , I T ’ S T H E LO N G - AWA I T E D C U R AT I V E ME ASURE FIXING AN AILING FA S H I O N SYS T E M .


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That’s why nothing keeps the fashion industry more busy at the moment than the industry’s new magic formula: “See now, buy now.” It’s a motto made for new consumer habits, which have been inf luenced in recent years by nothing as much as the desire for instant gratification. “In a world that has become increasingly immediate, the current way of showing a collection four months before it is available to consumers is an antiquated idea and one that no longer makes sense,” says American designer Tom Ford, explaining the error in the system in an interview with the industry publication WWD. Like the British fashion house Burberry, he is at the forefront of the movement, which some even refer to as a major fashion revolution, similar in scale to the introduction of prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) in the sixties.

We have spectacular designer burnouts, an excessive use of social media and online shopping as the new credo. More and more collections are dumped on the market, overheating the business. We’ve got declining sales due to the global economic crisis, a luxury industry that is structurally outdated and customer-unfriendly, and customers who no longer understand the fashion world. New collections hit the Internet in no time flat and yet it takes half a year to hunt them down before they finally appear in stores. And once they do it’s usually when the seasons no longer match the products. After all, who wants to start shopping for new winter coats in August? Something in fashion is off-kilter and in a big way. For months, experts have agreed that the fashion system no longer makes sense. There’s too much pressure, too many collections, too much overproduction – and too little magic. The situation has gotten serious for many fashion brands. The verdict is unanimous: To survive, the brands need to get closer to consumers.

In February, Burberry announced measures “to save fashion,” in other words, to fundamentally restructure the system. So, in the future, men’s and women’s collections will be shown together, to present a consistent image of the brand and the collection. Pre-collections will no longer be presented or integrated into big shows. Collections will be available for immediate purchase: online and in shops. That means that new advertising campaigns will run parallel to the show event, and shop windows will display the fashion that was just on the catwalk. Moreover, the seasonal system, which is outdated in any case, will come to an end. From now on, there will no longer be any fashion that is strictly for summer or winter, but rather fashion for all seasons, or to be more precise, for all kinds of consumers all across the world. Other fashion houses quick ly announced similar concepts. Tommy Hilfiger now also wants to sell his collections right after the show. Demna Gvasalia of Vetements – currently the hippest Parisian “It” fashion label – tries to make sure

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that only a few weeks pass before the collection is delivered and, like Paul Smith, also puts the women’s and men’s lines together so they can be viewed at the same time. So, in the future, these fashion labels will focus on more closely aligning themselves with the needs of consumers, who, thanks to the democratization of fashion, are already used to participating in something that had previously been off limits. So it’s not surprising that many designers also turn their shows into public events. Just look at Riccardo Tisci who gave away 1,200 tickets for his Givenchy show in New York. Or at Kanye West, who recently transcended anything ever seen before when he presented his Yeezy collection to 18,000 spectators along with a live concert. Given that much customer proximity, it’s not surprising that meanwhile every post and every comment (plus smileys and rockets and whatever else the emoji world has to offer) is playing an increasingly decisive role in fashion as real time data to be used in the design and production process. This is how brands pitch their wares by matching them perfectly to the buyer. Intuition is good, but facts are better. Many of the old fashion veterans shudder at the thought while others consider this a model of efficiency. The effects of big data trends have already become clearly visible. For quite some time now, brands and boutiques have actually increasingly been selling us precisely those things that we already – consciously or unconsciously – like. But what about completely new things, where we don’t even know yet if we might like them? Fashion as an expression of a new zeitgeist? We’ll probably come upon those kinds of surprises less and less. Instead, fashion becomes a wardrobe, a type of clothing linked to real existence, in that it looks at how people actually live, work and move.


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This doesn’t exactly sound sexy for an industry that has always been based on the notion of selling a dream, of selling clothing with soul, so to speak, which is what gives a skirt that added something, making it more than just a skirt. How can the industry create desire for fashion in the future in spite of all that practicality? This will probably be the most exciting challenge the industry has to face. Some new strategies already exist, including those that give rise to a renewed exclusivity distinct from “fashion” as mass entertainment. The expression “back to the roots” might sum up what many small labels have been practicing for a long time and what more and more brands have recently come to emulate: the playbook of oldtime, venerable couture. Trunk shows, private shopping salons, sales teams that provide customized solutions more than ever before – that is what discerning customers expect. As such, the incredibly rich Olsen twins fly from New York to Munich to explain the benefits of their brand, The Row, to a boutique’s handpicked customers. British designer Matthew Williamson doesn’t present his fashion in shows any more, but only sells his designs at private showroom dates and on his website. And Thakoon, a favorite of Michelle Obama’s, will take a similar approach. In other words, it is once again about being able to get into the ivory tower, which is a status symbol again. And what about all the rest? Recently, the focus has increasingly been on taking a personalized approach. From cell phone cases to Hermes handbags, everything is embellished with initials or funny stickers. British accessory designer Anya Hindmarch even launched her own sticker collection with which you can personalize your things. These stickers sell just as well as perfume or lipstick. And what will the next wave of

innovation bring that will be driven by 3D printing? “There will be a new degree of personalization,” says fashion critic Cathy Horn. “It could be the next big thing.” Horn isn’t the only one certain of this. Others, however, including Alessandro Michele with his reinterpretation of Gucci, insist on craftsmanship and sustainability. Michele (“Quality is the way out”) designs collections, where no piece is identical to another. For a few years now, it has been the case that if you buy a Gucci handbag, you get a document that resembles a passport more than a sales tag. And that’s basically what it is, since the origin and history of the leather the bag is made of is listed on it in detail. After all, today’s customers no longer simply want beautiful products. They also want to know where the products come from and how they are made. This is what makes them special for consumers and it’s the only way to tell a story about the product.

But will these things all really help? Or will everything change now? Maybe. But one thing is clear: The single answer doesn’t exist. Indeed, it’s hard to foresee the challenges fashion will be subject to in the future and what the actual repercussions of shifting the fashion calendar will be. That means that each company has to decide for itself which path to take next. A radical approach like Burberry’s or a traditional one – like the one adopted by the heads of global lifestyle corporations such as LVMH (Bernhard Arnault) and Kering (François-Henri Pinault). Or something in between? Take Prada, for one, where exclusive handbag models can be purchased at the same time as they’re presented in the show. This is bound to be one of the most exciting aspects of the runway revolution and we will be witnesses of this starting in September of this year. Will the buy-it-now option mark fashion’s final break with culture? Perhaps.


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ara

A R A S H O E S : S P O R T Y P R O S P E C T S – The A R A collection is known for its sporty footwear that unites high-quality materials with functionality and innovative design: fashionably interpreted classics, sneakers with sporty ultralight soles, and sandals in various heel heights. The footwear comes in floral prints and in metallic or snake prints, which are the perfect partner for smooth leathers and soft pastels. Loafers and lace-ups feature Nubuck and velour as well as rich contrasts or tones in tones. The footwear is interpreted fashionably with Lyra perforation, tassels, buckles or straps.

VAGABOND

V A G A B O N D will follow up on its sporty success and align it with all kinds of flats! The story continues with the originals and their minimalistic lines. It is a no-fuss, easy-to-wear look. The flats have more of a lounge look. The silhouette recalls a relaxed suit or a homey feel with a slender shape and a second skin fit. Mules, pointy toes, ballet shoes and slip-ons will be part of every outfit! The men’s footwear also has a lounge look and features a nice selection of “hang out” shoes, where the dressed look takes a Caribbean turn away from classic black.


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IMP Donna The Italian brand I M P D O N N A stands for modern, avantgarde cuts and functional style. The label thus embodies in its collections a contemporary form of casual elegance that matches the lifestyle of modern women – that it is sensual goes without saying, because fashion is ultimately just an extension of the fascination and sense of self embodied by the woman who wears the fashion.

IMP Uomo

An optimal relationship between image, quality and price – that is probably what men most appreciate about the Italian brand I M P U O M O . The label is thus a very versatile brand which, thanks to tradition and an innovative spirit, combines casually elegant, exciting and rocking, and clean avant-garde designs – for real men with a true fashion sense.

Dixie

An expressive touch? A new twist in your wardrobe? The collections by the Italian label D I X I E promise exactly that. Inspired by a London attitude, D I X I E women are above all curious, funny and unique. A feminine street style look full of power and modern elegance for women who love to set trends, because they understand the language of fashion.


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MEPHISTO

Not a trend, but cult! The classic that never goes out of fashion: Even after 50 years, the O R I G I N A L S by M E P H I S TO have remained true to their character. They are real character shoes that have polarized the world. One-of-a-kind items were never as popular as they are today – distinct models that have the potential to become your favorite shoe and are unmistakable. Genuine originals – like the O R I G I N A L S by M E P H I S TO .

Sioux Grashopper

The shoe icon is celebrating its big comeback. In 1964, the shoe was a revolution. It broke with all fashion conventions and embodied the new spirit of the young generation. The G R A S H O P P E R was a fashion trend in the late 1960s and early 1970s. It is the most successful shoe in S I O U X ’ S company history. In 2016, the icon was revised. The G R A S H O P P E R N E W G E N E R AT I O N captivates with a whole new look, which is a cross between moccasin on top and sneaker on bottom. The classic style of the G R A S H O P P E R O R I G I N A L remains unchanged and always features a genuine natural crepe sole.

PLEASE JEANS

stands for pants with heart and style. But the label’s unmistakable trademark is the silver heart on the right back pocket. But that is not the only unique thing about the pants by the hip Italian streetwear label. Thanks to their high-quality processing, every pair of P L E A S E J E A N S feels great on and fits very well, which makes them a great pair of everyday pants. J EANS PLEASE


UNSER TAG, UNSER SCHUH.

Panorama | Berlin Halle 8 | Stand 8.18

ara-shoes.com

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Ageless Access Bag by A N Y D I

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Bags by E A R LY Bowtie by G O L E T Z B O W T I E S


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H I P S TA R

Ulla Popken

For over 29 years, U L L A P O P K E N has presented new collections in sizes 42 to 64 to its customers on a monthly basis. Today, the omni-channel company already sells fashion from the whole world of large sizes and is very successful in areas including the shop-in-shop and franchise areas. Our new brand S T U D I O U N TO L D is an urban fashionista collection in sizes 42 to 54. The young plus-size label impresses with casual street styles and extravagant runway creations.

STUDIO UNTOLD


Size 38 - 58 www.kjbrand.de

PANORAMA, Berlin 28.06. – 30.06.2016 Halle 7 B . Stand 20

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CPD, Düsseldorf 22.07. – 25.07.2016 Fashion House 2 . Raum 2 A 025


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KJBrand

K J B R A N D stands for fashionable collections inspired by sporty looks and made of high-quality materials in sizes 38 to 58. With a lot of dedication and decades of experience, the company, which is located in Bavaria’s Untermain region, creates pants that fit perfectly as well as stylish mix-and-match fashion.The latest trends are implemented in such a way that – regardless of clothing size – they flatter the female silhouette and are comfortable to wear. The Spring/Summer 2017 collection captivates with good-mood colors, flowing, airy materials and casual, but refined shapes.

– the successful brand for plus fashion in sizes 40 to 60. The collection features seven color themes: light denim, navy/white/red, tobacco brown/off-white, salmon/putty, azalea red/putty, orange-red/turquoise, khaki/rose. M O N A L I S A focuses on Mediterranean influences, safari looks and romantic retro looks in flowing, exclusive designs. Details continue to play an important role. In this regard, M O N A L I S A presents fringes, cords, zipper solutions and drawstrings for suede optics. MONA LISA

Mona Lisa


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plus size fashion!

Hall 7 B - Booth 7b.09/7b.10 Ulla Popken Franchise & SHOP-IN-SHOP Am Waldrand 19 · 26180 Rastede · Tel.: 04402/ 799 - 251 shop-in-shop.servicekonto@popken.de


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Photography J E N N I F E R E N D O M Styling J U L I A Q U A N T E


Pullover by K J B R A N D Rock by B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R

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Coat by S E L E C T I O N BY U L L A P O P K E N Dress by E X E L L E Cardigan by E L E N A M I R O Purse by C O S Shoes by & O T H E R S TO R I E S


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Pants & Pullover by E L E N A M I R O Jacket by U L L A P O P K E N Shoes by & O T H E R S T O R I E S


Pullover on top by D O R I S S T R E I C H Pullover underneath by E X E L L E Pants by M O N A L I S A

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P H O TO G R A P H E R : J E N N I F E R E N D O M | | FA S H I O N S T Y L I S T & P R O D U C T I O N : J U L I A Q UA N T E @ P E R F E C T P R O P S H A I R & M A K E U P S T Y L I S T : A N N E K R A R U P @ L E M A N AG E M E N T | | M O D E L : L I S A S PA H N @ M O D E LW E R K

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Coat & Skirt by E L E N A M I R O Skirt by U L L A P O P K E N Shoes by D R . M A R T E N S


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Interview R ALF STROTMEIER

SUNSTRIPES T H E N E W I TA L I A N C O N C E P T B R A N D S U N S T R I P E S PROM ISES TO RE WR ITE THE RU LES IN THE OUTDOOR A R E A W I T H H I G H -T E C H , I N N O VAT I O N A N D C O M F O R T. PA N O R A M A B E R L I N M A G A Z I N E WA N T E D T O F I N D O U T M O R E A N D M E T W I T H F O U N D E R A N D C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R L U C I A B L O N D I F O R A TA L K . Where is Sunstripes made?

We produce our products worldwide and select only the best producers. We meet every new producer personally to make sure that our quality standards are met.

Mr. Blondi, when and how exactly did you get the idea for Sunstripes?

Sunstripes was established in 2014. One can almost say by chance when I met two important figures from the Italian outdoor industry, who are now my business partners. Sunstripes is based on certain patents that we use to produce unique and useful products. Our first product was a men’s swimsuit – the Icona Sunsand – with a SIS (Suntan Improvement System) patent. The special thing about these swim shorts is that the wearer can open the shorts to the side, so the legs can tan more quickly.

What’s your favorite model? Which product are you most proud of?

The Priscilla model: It’s a classic parka with high recognition value that comes from the feminine cut, the special, waterresistant material and the bold colors such as fluorescent pink and cobalt blue. Which materials and forms do you prefer to work with?

I don’t have a preference. It depends on the individual piece and ranges from soft, organic materials to high-tech materials. Material and form follow function.

What inspires you to make things like this?

Our motto is “Inspiration is evolution.” It means, for example, taking a classic garment and adding a technical function that meets the demands of the modern customer.

And what about the colors?

According to an esoteric theory, the colors white, blue and red are associated with attracting power. We all believe this, so these colors can be found in our collections. How do you wear or combine Sunstripes in everyday life?

For women, I see denim shorts. For men, chinos with sneakers – something that we don’t currently have yet in our collection. What are your plans for the future? Where is the journey headed?

We would like to open a flagship store in a busy neighborhood in Milan. And then, we might focus on denim and sneakers. Thank you for the information!


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ABURY

flip*flop G.LUNCH A B U R Y is a pioneering sustainable fashion brand that combines the preservation of traditional world crafts with avant-garde design, creating a true luxury style that fosters intercultural exchange. Our accessory collections are inspired by a unique combination of ingredients: the daring talent of young fashion designers with the spirit of traditional artisans. For every product sold we give back the same number of production hours in education hours to the communities we partner with. F L I P * F L O P is a company that has made the simplest shoe in the world a widespread fashion item. F L I P * F LO P ® is a registered trademark of Bernd Hummel Holding, a family-run company. The original F L I P - F LO P with its pure, colorful designs has been celebrated for almost twenty years as a modern classic: 24/7, whether while shopping, at the beach or at the spa. The F L I P - F LO P S are all subject to the strictest quality tests. Premium brands like Porsche and Tamara Comolli are among the brand’s exclusive partners. G . L U N C H It all started with Jean and Jean – two friends who live and work in Hong Kong. In the course of lunch breaks together, they got the idea for the must-have of the year: Bento Box G . L U N C H is the French answer to traditional bento boxes – a kind of lunch box with compartments. With a silicone soft touch surface and 16 fresh colors, you can now enjoy taking your own goodies with you to the office, school or on excursions.


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ANY DI

Berlin Boombox A N Y D I M U N I C H B A G S & A C C E S S O I R E S No compromise when it comes to style and function! Always perfectly organized, whether for business or leisure, A N Y D I ’ S are multitasking evergreens thanks to high-quality materials and excellent craftsmanship. In just a few steps, the unique strap system offers many carrying variations. The gadgets are the perfect complement to the bags, whether in the A N Y D I color set or individually combined, whether hung on the bag or casually on one’s pants – always a guaranteed eye-catcher! For every style, for any occasion. B E R L I N B O O M B O X Today, the cassette is regarded as a relic from times past. Although hardly anyone mourns the scratchy sound of taped music, it’s really too bad for the cult ’80s playback device. The B E R L I N B O O M B O X is now the perfect high-tech gimmick for nostalgic people. The look completely recalls a cult cassette recorder. But you can play music from your smartphone on this device and it sounds flawless – even without any cable clutter thanks to the latest generation that comes with Bluetooth.


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GOLETZ BOWTIES

CHALET AFFAIR

LEEF UNLIMITED G O L E T Z B O W T I E S stands for high-quality women’s and men’s bow ties handmade in Germany. Classic designs are reinterpreted and impress through their exquisite quality and unique styles. Whether it’s for everyday or a special occasion – no one seeking an exceptional accessory gets past G O L E T Z B O W T I E S and G O L E T Z P R E M I U M . Be a modern gentleman too: It’s time to GET TIED! L E E F U N L I M I T E D Eating precious leaves and protecting the threatened rainforest at the same time! The principle is simple: The proceeds of each leaf dish protect the area the leaves come from in the rainforest. Each leaf dish is nothing more than a single tropical leaf, which is pressed into a dish shape in a fair and sustainable way. L E E F U N L I M I T E D is a nonprofit initiative of L E E F B L AT T M A N U FA K T U R , which manufactures various disposable products such as plates, labels, signs, and much more from the leaves of this type of palm. C H A L E T A F F A I R In the designs by home accessories brand C H A L E T A F FA I R , the most important materials used are wood and fur, two of the most natural and even oldest raw materials. The modern design of the pieces made from these materials contrasts brilliantly with the archaic aura of the material used. In addition to practical everyday items such as thermos bottles for hot drinks, the company’s product line also features elegant stools and benches. C H A L E T A F FA I R – from Central Europe to South Korea, a design that appeals to customers all over the world.


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Jessica Russell Flint

Lichtliebe K A L A I K A stands for fine netbags and accessories made of high-quality materials – and with high standards of quality and workmanship. With tremendous attention to detail, innovative materials are effectively and playfully combined – with tones in tones – in the upcoming collection and refined with gold elements. K A L A I K A offers versatility and diversity in the product and color range – from light pastels to bright neon colors. K A L A I K A creates beloved one-of-a-kind pieces that become indispensable companions. J E S S I C A R U S S E L F L I N T is a British designer who creates luxury limited edition accessories and products originating from limited edition artwork. Items range from giant leather printed washbags featuring quintessential quirky illustrations of galloping horses, jungle motifs and tigers to beautiful cashmere and silk scarves in tasseled gift boxes. “Can you see beyond the end of your nose?” is the motto behind the brand, encouraging people to enjoy life, embrace color and to always see the bigger picture. All products are produced on a limited edition basis, making them collectable and coveted items. L I C H T L I E B E (“light love”) – and everything lights up. For three years, the young design label from Frankfurt am Main has made decorative lamps from wood and other sustainable materials. The products are, of course, lovingly made by hand in Germany. The current collection “Fafoo” consists of table, hanging and floor lamps in various color combinations, which bring beautiful, cozy, warm light to any room. Whether it’s a lounge, bar or retail space, “Fafoo” makes it more beautiful.


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Maison Mariet Till Air Plant

LAKRIDS T I L L A I R P L A N T The label T I L L H E R B A C A E L I specializes in so-called air plants, Tillandsia, which don’t require soil and only need the humidity of the air to nourish themselves, since they absorb water and nutrients through their leaves. T I L L H E R B A C A E L I takes advantage of how easy these plants are to care for and creates beautiful decorations out of them. They can be placed anywhere in your apartment or on the balcony – the perfect plant for plant lovers without a green thumb. M A I S O N M A R I E T Since 2013, Maison Mariet has designed custom notebooks by hand. The brand creates products for people who care about originality and authenticity, and keeps in mind the importance of quality and simplicity. Based in Clermont-Ferrand, France, the brand designs its products one by one to offer every client a unique notebook. L A K R I D S Thanks to his almost childish love of licorice, Johan Bülow, who was born in the little town of Svaneke on the Danish island of Bornholm, had the vision of using the spicy root for more than just sweets. Since 2007, his creation, Lakrids, has been made from care­fully selected licorice roots from Afghanistan, Iraq and Italy as well as Danish rapeseed oil. In addition to immediate consumption, licorice can also be used to sweeten foods, including drinks, desserts, bread or ice cream – the list of possible uses is long and creativity knows no bounds.


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MEN’S SOCIETY

ikko Berlin

Triumph & Disaster M E N ’ S S O C I E T Y Founded in 2011 by husband and wife Hugo and Bella Middleton, M E N ’ S S O C I E T Y has slowly been established as one of the leading independent men’s gift suppliers in Europe, selling their curated range of brands and products to the best concept stores, independents and department stores worldwide. The product range includes men’s grooming, barware, travel accessories and home accessories. I K K O B E R L I N Kokedama is an offbeat decoration idea from Japan: an ornamental plant grows on a moss ball. Your little plant on the moss ball grows best in a bright spot by the window. The word “kokedama” consists of “koke” – moss – and “dama” – ball. It’s a modern version of the Japanese “bonsai” and has been popular in Japan for over 20 years. Kokedama will be your little garden art cosmos by the window. T R I U M P H & D I S A S T E R To develop a skincare line for those who want to have clean, healthy and vibrant skin, without having to give up their own ethical and aesthetic preferences – that is the issue the young brand T R I U M P H & D I S A S T E R addresses. The New Zealand founders, above all, attach tremendous importance to using indigenous natural ingredients such as Horopito oil and Ponga fern extract (Cumungii). The result is a combination of the best of what science, nature and design have to offer.


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A little lovely company

Smitten

The liquid health company S M I T T E N The two founders of S M I T T E N travel all around the world and especially to South America, where they discover wonderful ethnic patterns, strong colors, and impressive handicrafts made in ways one hardly sees any more. Our latest collection of bags, scarves and belts is inspired by these ethnic influences and the bohemian style that is popular all over the world. Whether it’s a fine ethnic border or a spacious boho bag, a S M I T T E N accessory adds a special, individual highlight to any outfit. A L I T T L E L O V E LY C O M P A N Y The two designers Judith de Ruijter and Nikki Hately share a passion: With unique decorative items, they like spreading a lot of “loveliness” throughout the house. Founded in 2013, that is the philosophy behind the refreshing, colorful Dutch company. The Little Lovely collection thus offers uplifting garlands and unique balloons filled with confetti, as well as letter banners, posters and decorative designs for the children’s room and the living room. T H E L I Q U I D H E A L T H C O M P A N Y Tea sommelier Marion Reichel has compiled a unique THÉ edition for the fashion world – and in a remarkable jar. Yes, fashion also goes with tea, because tea caters to the same needs: feeling good about yourself, taking care of yourself, doing something good for yourself, staying young or just being beautiful.The liquid health company is a small but fine tea maker that has made it its task to make the world a little better every day with some “healthy liquid.”


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24 Bottles

WASH WITH JOE™

ROBEX 2 4 B O T T L E S ® “You save money. You look good and the world is happy.” Still have questions? The Italian label 2 4 B O T T L E S ® has reinterpreted the classic bottle. Founded in 2013, the relatively new company developed from the search for environmentally friendly solutions to the problem of disposable bottles. With the convenient and ultra-lightweight stainless steel bottle, the design team at 2 4 B O T T L E S ® would like to make the world a little bit better. W A S H W I T H J O E ™ Like a double espresso under the shower: That probably best describes the effect of W A S H W I T H J O E , because the stimulating blend of pure coffee and triple-distilled peppermint essential oil invigorates the body and mind. In addition, coffee is also an excellent natural deodorant and thus makes W A S H W I T H J O E the ideal unisex personal care product for active and sporty men and women – paraben-free, certified vegan and never tested on animals. R O B E X The exclusive two-tone bowls in the R O B E X design series are manufactured using a special multi-layer method that makes them extremely durable. Not just suitable for decoration, the R O B E X bowls are 100 percent made in Italy. They are lightweight, impact-resistant and foodsafe. For appetizers, snacks, and so forth.


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KAKOOii

MIASA gingko

K A K K O I I comes from the Japanese word for “cool” – and the speaker’s design by the company of the same name aims to be just that. With its forms and colors, the London-based designer Antonio Arevalo takes leave of all the previous conventions that we usually associate with hi-fi equipment. The result: wireless speakers. Moreover, the speakers become a highlight in the room and no longer need to be discreetly hidden in the farthest corner of your apartment. M I A S A The M I A S A company is one of the main distributors of Persian saffron. Together with a well-known French distillery, the company recently started producing a premium liqueur that uses the most expensive spice in the world. M I A S A developed the recipe for its saffron liqueur following a traditional recipe from the ancient Silk Road. Recently rediscovered in the archives of the French perfume industry, M I A S A was able to secure the secret recipe behind the floral notes in this luxurious liqueur. The liqueur is served as a luxury aperitif with a glass of champagne or sparkling wine. G I N G K O The English label G I N G K O enriches the world of home decor with new technological elements. G I N G K O ’ S goal is the development, production and sales of environmentally friendly, simple, yet functional design objects. They lend a smart, elegant, stylish and unique touch to the day.


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Heidi Klum Intimates

b!ll’s

DKNY Sleepwear H E I D I K L U M I N T I M A T E S The underwear collection captivates with its seductive sensuality, exquisite designs and impeccable fit and comfort. For 2017, H E I D I K L U M I N T I M AT E S again promise a romantic and playful collection that is both practical and dazzling. B ! L L’ S Anytime anywear! The slogan says it all. The watches by the brand B I L L S seduce a broad audience through authenticity and a bold style. Three young businessmen founded the creative and innovative brand in Switzerland in 2011. With tons of ideas and lots of motivation and ambition, the brand created transformable timepieces. The dials are interchangeable, so you can change the wristbands quickly to wear different designs. D K N Y S L E E P W E A R The label D K N Y also uses clear lines in its sleepwear collection and remains true to its style. In a simple yet varied manner, D K N Y S L E E P W E A R creates a bridge between fast-paced city life and the cozy feeling of home. The outfits by D K N Y Sleepwear also ensure a stylish look at home and let you enjoy the day in a carefree manner.


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NOVA CONCEPT | HALL 9 | 9.98


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ORIGINAL PENGUIN In 1955, Munsingwear, a Minneapolis-based company, introduced the first iconic golf shirt to America. Legend has it that one of their salesmen spotted a stuffed penguin in the window of a New York toy store – and bought it. Shortly there­ after, the penguin playfully became the brand’s official mascot and the symbol on the 1955 golf shirt. In the fifties and sixties, it was worn by many sports stars and other celebrities, including Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, Arnold Palmer, Clint Eastwood and Richard Nixon, to name just a few. To date, O R I G I N A L P E N G U I N has developed into a complete lifestyle brand and has fans from Brad Pitt to Johnny Depp. The story behind the Spring/ Summer 2017 collection is a blend of two key concepts that aim to create a new theme unique to the company: Looking back at the sports heritage, “Heritage Sport” was mixed with “Safari” for a mashup, which is supposed to be both fun and functional. This creates a unique mix that combines a retro sports look with the functionality of adventure and safari.

Original Penguin


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LANGBRETT

L A N G B R E T T The Berlin label L A N G B R E T T stands for products produced under ethical and ecologically fair conditions. That means sustainability, creating designs that remain current, clothing that is still wearable after a few years, and developing new products that do not harm other people or the environment. So for its shoe collection, L A N G B R E T T decided to recycle old things such as GDR military tents, car tires, wetsuits and coffee. The shoes’ leather is processed in a chromium-free system with closed water circulation. If that’s not enough for you, the collection features certified, vegan shoes. L A N G B R E T T ’ S skateboards are handmade from local wood in the Ore Mountains. Sweaters, hoodies, T-shirts and bags are made from organic cotton and produced fairly and without chemical additives in Germany and Portugal. The label does not rely on suppliers with a system of subcontractors, but knows the supply chain exactly. Each manufacturing site and each producer is handpicked. Langbrett focuses on short routes and a working environment that the label itself would like to work in.


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Basicon B A S I C O N As part of the Senatura Group, the Italian label B A S I C O N finds the notion of fashion fairly unfashionable and, since 2011, has accordingly specialized in the production of timeless, elegant men’s trousers. Originally from Naples, B A S I C O N ’ S headquarters are located in the heart of Milan’s Fashion District. From here, the brand focuses on the design and production of clothing that stands the test of time through many seasons. Bearing the seal of quality “Made in Italy,” research, attention to detail and timelessness comprise the foundation of B A S I C O N ’ S collection.


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LE’s

L E ’ S The small but fine Italian manufacturer presents the must-have pants of the new Spring/Summer 2017 Season. Made of a flowing 360-gram jacquard fabric – 70% viscose, 26% polyester and 4% spandex – the trousers are available in many colors and patterns and in five cuts: as Marlene pants, in 7/8 length, as a slim or wider capri style, and as a feel-good model with drawstrings – of course, all 100% “Made in Italy.”


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Maison Méditerranéenne des Métiers de la Mode à Marseille

MAISON MÉDITERRANÉENNE DES MÉTIERS D E L A M O D E À M A R S E I L L E Fashion plays an important role in France – but not only in Paris. Marseille, in particular, the second largest city in France, has proven itself to be a treasure trove for young fashion and talents. For over 30 years, the mission of the M A I S O N M É D I T E R R A N É E N N E D E S M É T I E R S D E L A M O D E ( M M M M ) has been to develop a strong fashion sector in the regional economy and to support young designers by organizing two competitions each year – so that Marseille remains a talent pool for French fashion.


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BOOM BAP WEAR

PARIS | LISBOA | MOSCOW | IBIZA | PORTO | NICE | BRAGA

Forget the rules! If you like it, wear it!

International Sales SUPREME Agency Stolberger Str. 90 d / Halle 9 50933 Kรถln Fon: +49 221 500 557 16 Fax: +49 221 500 557 15 hello@supr hello@supremeagency.de www.supremeagency.de

www.boombapwear.com


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MARTONE CYCLING MARTON E CYCLI NG If Karl Lagerfeld is impressed with a bicycle, then it must be a very cool bike. The modern city bikes by the New York City bicycle manufacturer M A R TO N E C Y C L I N G , above all, impress with their purist design, which is always brilliantly disrupted by the bicycle chain that is always red. In addition, the elegant, lightweight and sophisticated M A R TO N E bikes always come with a handlebar basket, which not only makes them stylish, but also very practical.


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AQIPA A Q I P A The times when headphones, speakers or MP3 players were only used to listen to music and audio formats are long gone. These days, even technology products are trendy lifestyle accessories. For over 25 years, A Q I PA has focused on distributing precisely those brands and unique products that reflect the fusion of design and fashion with technology and innovation – such as B & O P L AY by B A N G & O L U F S E N , M A R S H A L L , M O L A M I , U R B A N E A R S or C O LO U D .

MOLAMI

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Marshall

B&O PLAY

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S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

W I T H H I S T E X T I L E A L L I A N C E I N I T I AT I V E , G E R M A N D E V E LO P M E N T M I N I S T E R G E R D M Ü L L E R I S T RY I N G TO P U T A N E N D TO T H E C ATA S T R O P H I C C O N D I T I O N S I N T E X T I L E P R O D U C T I O N – TO T H E M O D E R N S L AV E RY A N D S E V E R E E N V I R O N M E N TA L D EG R A DAT I O N . W E M E T W I T H T H E M I N I S T E R TO D I S C U S S T H E R EC E N T S U C C E S S O F T H E I N I T I AT I V E .

Fashion isn’t just about new ideas and trends, but also about how our clothes are made. Specifically, it’s about the following questions: Is my shirt free of toxic chemicals? Can the seamstress who sews my suit earn enough to feed her family and send her kids to school? Does the factory in which she works adhere to international standards for fire and building safety? Together with the Sustainable Textile Alliance that I launched, I am committed to addressing precisely these issues. What does your ministry do to achieve these goals?

We have been supporting projects in many countries for many years. These are projects that promote fair and ecological textile production. We definitely do not want a second Rana Plaza to happen! When the factory in Bangladesh collapsed three years ago, over 1,100 people were buried under it. If we want to change the production conditions in the garment industry, then we need the help of buyers, consumers, businesses, trade unions and civil society. We can only really make a difference if we all work together. Therefore, we established the Sustainable Textile Alliance in 2014 in coope­ration with manufacturers, associations, trade unions and non-government organizations.

What exactly does the Textile Alliance aim to accomplish?

Our members in the Textile Alliance share one common goal: We want to improve the working and environmental conditions in the production countries – from the cotton fields to the clothing hanger, in other words throughout the entire production chain. We developed an ambitious plan of action with measures in the areas of health, work safety, the use of chemicals, and fire pro­tection. Meanwhile, the alliance has over 180 members, including many large companies such as Adidas, VAUDE, H&M, and the Otto Group. We thus cover almost 60 percent of the German market in textile retail. Together with all stakeholders, we are currently working on how to bring about concrete im­ provements in the production countries. Why should a company join the Textile Alliance? Don’t we already have a lot of official seals telling consumers that the textiles have been sustainably produced?

We are more than just another seal initiative. In fact, we use these seals and their systems, and, in part, they function really well. But we are interested in something much more comprehensive – in changing the conditions at the work site. For example, living wages – no company can implement them on its own in a foreign country.

Game Changer

Interview R A L F S T R O T M E I E R

Your Excellency, Dr. Müller, this year your ministry is represented at Berlin Fashion Week. What does development cooperation have to do with fashion?

With the Textile Alliance, we bundle the expertise and market power of all stake­ holders together and ensure fair wages in the textile industry – step by step. Isn’t the fashion industry much too fast-lived and cost-driven for that?

Production methods that are socially fair and ecologically sustainable don’t have to be expensive. On the other hand, high-priced garments are often produced under working conditions that do not correspond to our notions of fairness and environmental protection. The following is much more important: that companies see social and ecological standards as their core competence and that consumers see sustainability as a genuine sign of quality. If the Textile Alliance is able to change the way people think – and I am convinced it will be able to – then we will succeed. We have to make the following clear to the people in Germany: At the start of every product, there is always a person. And it’s about that person.


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OEL EARLY

N I N A L U is a minimalistic design label with a collection of jewelry and decorations and was founded by Luka Alagiyawanna in Berlin in 2015. Every piece is designed and handmade by her and inspired by minimalistic aesthetics and the nature that surrounds her. She creates pieces out of sterling silver, brass and copper tubes in combination with natural materials like wood, shells, seeds and stones, which she collects in nature. E A R LY The label E A R LY is based on a simple yet innovative basic recipe. Founded in Germany, the brand is a collective of creatives around designer Valerie Sietzy. The focus of the Spring/Summer 2017 collection is on simple, yet unique details that make each individual accessory into something special. The label only uses leather with its own history. The natural material used for the accessories exclusively comes from vintage stock, is free of heavy metals and is only colored naturally. O E L is 100 percent pure and self-produced native Koroneiki olive oil. O E L’ S Koroneiki olives grow and thrive exclusively on their own certified organic trees on private land in Meligalas and Kalamata (Messinia/Greece). The Koroneiki olives are harvested exclusively by hand, even by their own hands. A few hours after the olives are harvested, they are carefully processed into oil in a press using cold extraction. The oil is then stored in insulated UV-protected canisters.


Carl: Polo Shirt by B E N S H E R M A N Shirt - stylist’s own

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every YOU & every ME Photography R O M A N G O E B E L Styling C H R I S T O F P O S T


Carl: Suit by C I N Q U E Shirt by M AV I

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Maren: Shirt & Pants by C I N Q U E Coat by A N O N Y M E D E S I G N E R S Earrings by B L I N G B E R L I N

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Julia: Shirt by B E N C H

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Julia: Pants by C I N Q U E Shirt by A N O N Y M E D E S I G N E R S Scarf by C I N Q U E

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Maren: Shirt by M AV I Scarf & Jacket by C I N Q U E Carl: Suit by C L U B O F G E N T S Top by B E N S H E R M A N

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Julia: Pants by C I N Q U E Shirt by A N O N Y M E D E S I G N E R S Scarf by C I N Q U E

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Carl: Suit by C L U B O F G E N T S Shirt by C I N Q U E

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Julia: Pants by A L P H A S T U D I O Shirt by C I N Q U E

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Maren: Overalls by A N O N Y M E D E S I G N E R S Jacket by B E N S H E R M A N Earrings by B L I N G B E R L I N

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Maren: Pullover by A L P H A S T U D I O Earrings by B L I N G B E R L I N

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Carl: Shirt by B E N C H Pants by C A R L G R O S S

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Julia: Jacket & Poncho by A N O N Y M E D E S I G N E R S

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Maren: Veste by A L P H A S T U D I O Earrings by B L I N G B E R L I N

P H O TO G R A P H E R : R O M A N G O E B E L | | A S S I S TA N T P H O T O G R A P H E R : J A A P B R Ä U T I G A M & J U L I E N B A R B E S | | S T Y L I N G : C H R I S TO F P O S T@ K U LTA R T I S T S | | S T Y L I N G A S S I S TA N T : T Y L E R R I C H M O N D | | H A I R : H A U K E K R A U S E @ K U LTA R T I S T S | | M A K E U P : PAT R I C K G L AT T H A A R @ B A L L S A A L | | M O D E L S : J U L I A @ S M C | M A R E N @ G I R L S C L U B M A N AG E M E N T | C A R L @ N E S T M O D E L M A N AG E M E N T

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NAGANO CINQUE

SOI N A G A N O No distance is too far, no idea too far-fetched: N A G A N O does things its own way in the Spring/Summer 2017. The looks in the new collection are ready for any suicide mission. Classic aviator and bomber jackets, reinterpreted: the spirit of then, the look and feel of today – with a biker jacket or a field jacket, anorak, college blouson, parka. Loud or washed down into red, green, orange, olive, navy, camel. Denim and flats are authentic and rough. From grey to black, from light bleached to dark used blue. C I N Q U E , the contemporary premium label, corresponds to the essence of Italian lifestyle: inwardly passionate and emotional, outwardly always well-dressed and casual. The focus of the new Spring/Summer 2017 collection, which is characterized by wide-ranging looks, is the positive attitude towards life. This casual style is apparent in clean outfits with fresh colors, lightweight materials and denim. In addition, modern outfits are made in such a way that they are suitable for business. The C I N Q U E -[hy.b.rid] jacket models are the highlight – for the first time also for women. S O I is the world’s first automatic bag light. It illuminates your handbag once you start looking. You don’t have to switch it on. When your hand approaches or touches S O I , it simply lights up. It’s automatic and goes out again after some time to save power. A study shows that women spend an average of 76 days of their life looking for something in their bag. S O I spares its owners time that can certainly be used more wisely.


A N ZE I G E

DB SCHENKERfairs will suit your needs! A successful fashion fair requires perfectly designed logistics services. As the official trade fair forwarder we provide the entire logistics services for your fashion trade show. Lean back and enjoy your gathering in Berlin – we do simply everything in logistics, so that everything is simple for you. DB SCHENKERfairs. Schenker Deutschland AG Branch Office Berlin, Service building south/nearby gate 25, JaffÊstrasse 2, 14055 Berlin Contact us for further information: Eric Mett, Phone +49 30 3012995-441, eric.mett@dbschenker.com Mike Penkert, Phone +49 30 3012995-442, mike.penkert@dbschenker.com Benjamin Biernath, Phone +49 30 3012995-443, benjamin.biernath@dbschenker.com www.dbschenker.com/de


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Ten Points

Boom Bap Wear

Ben Sherman T E N P O I N T S Inspired by Swedish simplicity, Scandinavian nature and a Swedish lifestyle, footwear brand T E N P O I N T S  targets modern consumers with a strong sense of quality. The “Sustainable” line is new in the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, and the focus is on natural materials, colors and shapes. The material used is vegetable-tanned leather or chrome-free leather with different surfaces and looks in earthy colors. Each pair is manufactured by hand in Europe with respect for the environment and a focus on high wearer comfort. B O O M B A P W E A R The B O O M B A P W E A R Spring/Summer 2017 Collection features a highly innovative approach that combines design and functionality, preserving the brand’s cultural heritage and unique DNA. Inspired by the theme “2nd Life,” for Spring/Summer 2017 B O O M B A P W E A R continues to update its garments designed for an active urban lifestyle. Featuring the iconic graphic T-shirts and sweats, the range also offers original and contemporary Tees, sweatpants, tops, shorts, comfortable denim and quality sneakers Made in Portugal. B E N S H E R M A N When it comes to British design with cult factor, B E N S H E R M A N is right at the forefront. The label’s shoes are stylish and casual at the same time – in other words, typically British. Classical elements are always interpreted in a contemporary way. The label is always true to its own look and feel. B E N S H E R M A N very intentionally celebrates its British roots, so the classic gentleman is placed in a modern context. The result is a shoe that fully reflects the latest trends.


A N ZE I G E


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Réduit

Hetje TEXTILEREI T E X T I L E R E I has been committed to promoting the regional fashion industry and Mannheim as a location since October 2015. The competence center for the fashion and textile industry provides innovative company founders in fashion and design with an entrepreneurial home and a creative environment, to help pave the way from vision to the market. And so that “Made in Mannheim” will soon be a concept for everyone, the Textilerei is represented with its own stand at this edition of PA N O R A M A B E R L I N .


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Carokissen

Goldgarn Denim Anna Nickel R É D U I T “No gender, no season” – what many of the major fashion brands are currently selling as a fashion revolution is something designer Alexei Ballach has been doing at his label since 2012. His pure, monochrome and minimalist fashion is mainly characterized by its wearability and the many mix-and-match options in his current and earlier collections. With R É D U I T , Ballach has launched a more affordable second line, which is definitely not inferior to the avant-garde standards of his main line in any way. H E T J E Handmade, individual, sustainable – that probably best describes the Mannheim label H E TJ E that specializes in individual and handmade fashion and home products. What’s so special about the items? The products aren’t just made by hand with a lot of love for detail in the studio, but can also be customized using the customer’s own textiles, such as discarded clothing, baby rompers or curtains. The label thus makes unique upcycled pieces with great sentimental value. C A R O K I S S E N The young Mannheim label C A R O K I S S E N stands for colorful, functional home textiles with original details. The pillow label is known for its exceptional designs with buttons and a bag that share a common thread. The high-quality products are expandable, free of harmful substances and are made sustainably, socially and fairly in Germany – true to the motto “Make People Happy.” A N N A N I C K E L studied art history in Moscow and organized contemporary art exhibitions for several years at the Moscow Museum of Modern Art, where she worked as department head. During her fashion studies at the Pforzheim School of Design, she founded the label A N N A N I C K E L . She sees fashion as one way of visualizing art and combines the two in her designs. High-quality, yet inexpensive womenswear is made from natural materials. G O L D G A R N D E N I M Typical Mannheim – these words sum up the jeans made by the label G O L D G A R N D E N I M . The designers of the young brand didn’t just print a symbol of Mannheim’s famous blocks inside a pocket of each pair of jeans, but even named the individual models after the neighborhoods in the Rhine-Neckar city. The label offers another extra as well: For each pair of jeans sold, 1 euro goes to the “Aufwind” project for disadvantaged children.


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MUSIC

Graham Candy had no idea what awaited him when he boarded his Berlin-bound flight, leaving New Zealand behind him. The boy who had spent summer days skipping school to play guitar and learning chords from friends to write his own songs, was about to chase his dream across eleven time zones. “Dreams don’t work unless you’re willing to work for them first,” he sings on “Back Into It,” from his new album Plan A. It seems that in Berlin, Candy put the work in. It’s been almost two years since the 25-yearold musician hooked up with DJ Alle Farben at Kreuzberg’s Riverside Studios to record “She Moves.” The track captures the mood of the open airs that permeate Berlin’s summer months with Candy’s voice carrying an honest, sun-drenched optimism that struck a chord with anybody who’d ever visited the city. The song reached Gold status in Germany, selling over 170,000 copies. Charting all around Europe, the track’s success saw him performing to 2000-strong crowds, just months after playing acoustic gigs in tiny Auckland bars. The new album – titled Plan A because his head teacher told him he’d need a Plan B if his music career didn’t take off – was recorded with producer team Feeling Valencia aka ABBY, who penned his critically acclaimed EP, Holding

Graham Candy Plan Up Balloons. Plan A is Graham’s opportunity to show the world just how much more he’s capable of. A lifetime in the making and with over fifty songs to choose from, Plan A is a 12-track journey through a beautiful mind. Opening with the heart-wrenchingly honest “Home,” Candy immediately welcomes the listener straight into his most intimate thoughts. “I want to go home, but not today,” he sings about the distance separating him from his former life, fittingly recorded with a

A

30-strong choir from his school back in Auckland, the same school where the headmaster once almost shattered his dream. In an album so effortlessly catchy yet packed with authenticity and grit, you believe every word Graham Candy sings, and you’re not likely to forget it any time soon. “Memphis” and “Heart of Gold” are the backbone of the album, the latter about his relationship with a father who wasn’t too keen on his career choice – “I called you from a thousand miles / Going to make you proud.”


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BERLIN

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SEASON Spa & Fitness Club Berlin

S E A S O N S PA & F I T N E S S C LU B B E R LI N The newly opened S E A S O N S PA & F I T N E S S C L U B on the 7th floor of the Steigenberger Hotel at the Chancellery also offers nonhotel guests extensive opportunities for relaxation and to look after themselves. The entire club is divided into four areas: fitness, spa, wellness and lounge. The absolute highlight of the fitness area is the view of the Spree, the Reichstag building, the Federal Chancellery and the entire eastern part of the city. The spa area sparkles with treatments by specialists. With products by the cosmetics brand C L A R I N S , the staff ensures that you receive the relaxation and cosmetic care you need. In addition to the steam room, the wellness area offers a 60-degree-celsius bio sauna and two 90-degree-celsius dry saunas, one of which is located on one of the two outdoor patios. There are also many places to lie down and relax. SEASON Spa & Fitness Club | in the Steigenberger Hotel at the Chancellery | Ella-Trebe-StraĂ&#x;e 5, 10557 Berlin | www.seasonclub.de


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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Photos: Benjamin Ehrenberg

Berlin-based artist – and budding rapper – Candy Ken has been adding a flashy, technicolor, gender-bending vibe to the city’s music and art scenes for a couple of years now but is poised to become the next big fashion muse/front row novelty after catching the eyes of designers like Nicola Formichetti and Jeremy Scott. After Formichetti first came across his Instagram feed, the D I E S E L designer immediately flew Ken to Milan to do a photo shoot for his Japan-based fashion magazine. Upon looking through Candy Ken’s Instagram feed, it’s not hard to understand what Formichetti finds so appealing: it’s an eyecatching pastiche of masculine and feminine, of tiaras and nail art and jacked abs and bench presses, like other European artists who take American cultural tropes and improbably create something fresh and exciting, there’s something compelling about his study in contrasts, Peter Pan-esque antics and ‘Don’t give a fuck’ attitude. We couldn’t help it, but had to book him to perform at our PA N O R A M A B E R L I N Party on Wednesday, June 29.

Candy Ken

S U P E R STA R


EXHIBITIONS BERLIN

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Kessler registered the upheavals of his time (1868-1937) with great sensitivity and consequently delivers insights that are so unique – on over 15,000 written pages. The current relevance of Kessler’s person and perception is presented by the exhibition in the Max Liebermann House on Pariser Platz. It takes you directly to the heart of the text in the diary: It presents both Kessler’s multifaceted and contradictory mental universe. Using media installations, the show sets a complex kalei­doscope in motion that is characteristic of Kessler’s diaries. The associative and sensual manner of the media projections introduces the visitor to the world where the quotes originated.

Edvard Munch, Porträt, Harry Graf Kessler, um 1904, Öl auf Leinwand, Privatsammlung

Harry– Graf Kessler Flaneur durch die Moderne

Arts & Culture |

M AY 2 1– A U G U S T 2 1, 2 0 16 ST I F TU NG B R AN DEN BU RG ER TOR MA X LIEBERMANN HAUS P A R I S E R P L AT Z 7 | 10 117 B E R L I N ADMISSION FREE


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The MEP Show

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Alice Springs

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Nina Hagen & Ari Up, Malibu 1980

Since 1970, June Newton, the widow of the legendary photographer of fashion and nudes, has also worked as a photographer, under the pseudonym Alice Springs. She and Helmut Newton have frequently exhibited their works together, especially their joint project “Us and Them.” In 2010, the first Alice Springs retrospective was hosted at the Helmut Newton Foundation. Now, her second retrospective, organized in 2015 by the Maison Européenne de la Photographie ( M E P ) in Paris, will also be shown in Berlin and accompanied by a book published by TA S C H E N . Intense portraits in both black & white and color are complemented by an expansive series of street photographs shot along Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, where Alice Springs attentively documented California’s developing punk and hip-hop scenes in the 1980s. Anarchic youth culture, at times characterized by radical hairstyles and shrill body piercings, rejected the notion of capitalist society. Only a few years later, this musically and fashion-based protest movement in California subsided.


Left page: Alice Springs, Malibu, 1983 © Alice Springs Right page bottom: Alice Springs, Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, 1984 © Alice Springs Right page top: Alice Springs, Helmut Newton with Lisa Lyon, Venice, California, 1981 © Alice Springs

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EXHIBITIONS BERLIN

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Accompanying the exhibition is the book published by TA S C H E N : ALICE S PR I NG S. T H E PA R I S M E P S H OW hardcover, 21 x 27.5 cm, 112 pages, €39.99; ISBN 978-3-8365-3973-9 (German, English, French).

H E L M U T N E W T O N F O U N D AT I O N M USEU M OF PHOTOGR APHY J E B E N S S T R A S S E 2 | 10 6 2 3 B E R L I N H O U R S : T U E , W E D , F R I , S AT, S U N : 11 A M – 7 P M , T H U 11 A M – 8 P M A D M I S S I O N : € 10


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B OOKS

Issey Miyake LY R I C A L L I F E - W E A R

ART MEETS HAUTE COUTURE – THE U LT I M AT E ISSEY M I YA K E MONOGRAPH A homage to the great fashion designer Issey Miyake and his unique synthesis of art, technical innovation and Japanese tradition. Initiated and conceived by Midori Kitamura, this book coincides with the major Miyake exhibition at the National Art Center, Tokyo. The book traces the development of the brilliant visionary from the early stages of his career to the legendary collections “A Piece of Cloth,” “Body Series,” “Miyake Pleats” and to the functional, practical “Pleats Please” models of today. heute. Issey Miyake | by Issey Miyake, Midori Kitamura and Kazuko Koike,

Yuriko Takagi | Hardcover | 30 x 30 cm | 512 pages | €49.99 | TA S C H E N Verlag | ISBN 978-3-8365-5522-7 | bilingual edition: English and Japanese


Arts & Culture |

B OOKS

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Her Majesty STYLE ICON

S T Y L E I C O N – H E R M A J E S T Y Brimming with splendor and glamour, kitsch and culture, the book tells Elisabeth’s remarkable story from Her Majesty’s early years to her most recent state visits and receptions. The authors trace her youth during the Second World War, becoming a wife, Queen and mother, her meetings with cult figures of her time such as the Beatles, Marilyn Monroe and JFK, as well as her many trips abroad. You get a chance to visit the impressive royal palaces, are an onlooker at royal weddings and anniversaries, and enjoy tea and pastries privately with the Queen. “Her Majesty” is both a royal chronicle and an exhibition of photos by great photographers, who were allowed to make their own picture of the world’s most famous monarch, including Cecil Beaton, Rankin, Studio Lisa, Dorothy Wilding, Yousuf Karsh, Lord Snowdon, Patrick Lichfield, Wolfgang Tillmans and Annie Leibovitz. Her Majesty | by Reuel Golden and Christopher Warwick | Hardcover | 23.2 x 31.6 cm |

352 pages | €29.99 | TASCHEN Verlag | ISBN 978-3-8365-5541-8 | multilingual edition: German, English and French


Arts & Culture |

EXHIBITIONS BERLIN

The Susanne von Meiss Collection representatively covers all genres and styles in the history of photography – from the 1920s through to the present. It includes works by internationally renowned photographers. However, for the main part it does not give preference to the iconic photographs but rather to unknown classics. The personal selection ranges from Diane Arbus, Richard Avedon, René Burri and Henri Cartier-Bresson through Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Paolo Roversi and August Sander to contemporary artists such as Tracey Emin, Nan Goldin, Daido Moriyama, Richard Prince and Juergen Teller. The group exhibition is divided thematically into three sections: “pose,” “experiment” and “staging the situative.” The photographs serve as a starting point for an art-historical analysis and observation, from an inner perspective, within the medium of photography. The collection will be presented to the public for the first time at C/O Berlin. The exhibition encompasses approximately 250 photographs.

© Estate of Lillian Bassman

Allure [frz. Stil, Eleganz]

PHOTOGR APHS FROM THE SUSANNE VON M EI SS C OLLECTION

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Top left: © Greg Gorman Bottom left: © Peter Lindbergh/Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh’s studio Bottom right: © Len Prince/Courtesy of the Stately-Wise Gallery

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M AY 2 8 – S E P T E M B E R 4 , 2 0 16 C / O BERLIN | AMERI K A HAUS H A R D E N B E R G S T R A S S E 22 – 24 10 6 2 3 B E R L I N D A I LY F R O M 11 A M – 8 P M A D M I S S I O N € 10


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TH E LAST WOR D

The losers in the price war

256 OP-ED

The price war that’s currently going on in fashion retail knows no winners – only losers. The losers are f irstly the discounters themselves. They make sales that entail a sacrif ice in financial return. For the strong, it is an investment in squeezing out the competition. For the weak, it is often the last resort to obtain liquidity. The loss of credibility and trust is perhaps even worse than renouncing margins. When it comes to discounts, customers who are somewhat informed will assume that the prices were calculated accordingly beforehand. They’re not stupid. Moreover, it annoys the customers who paid full price. In the future, they will wait or go elsewhere. Of course, the losers are also the competitors. They usually have no choice but to follow suit and lower their prices too – with the described consequences. Here one can only hope that they are able to draw on the appropriate reserves for any costs that may arise. Thirdly, losers are the suppliers affected by the price reductions. On the one hand, price discounts aren’t good for a brand’s image: If you need to use a red pen to boost

sales, then it’s likely to affect a brand’s desirability. On the other hand, price promotions trigger market unrest: The phones start ringing off the hook; distribution becomes a type of spiritual overseer; the customers start asking for compensation and in the worst case scenario threaten to discontinue the product if the supplier doesn’t exercise greater price discipline. But the latter will always remain an illusion; the Internet made that completely clear. Brand goods are available in the market at different prices and no one can prevent this unless they fully – that is, 100% of the time – use their own distribution systems to sell their goods. The losers in the price battle are – as surprising as it may sound – ultimately the customers. In the short term, they obviously appreciate bargains. But for quite a few people, always having to compare prices is an added stress factor they would rather do without – or they buy from suppliers that always offer low prices. At Aldi or Primark, you know what you’re getting for your money. Paradoxically, the rampant “discount mania” is generating more business for discount stores. The no-service culture that goes along with it and the impoverishment of the offer are consequences that actually aren’t in the interest of consumers. But if someone is offered a discount, who turns it down due to economic or cultural considerations? It is certainly the case that along with the prices, the appreciation we have for textiles has fallen. In this respect, the cutthroat competition has set a downward spiral in motion that will only continue to spiral. The price wars are a symptom of the over-saturation of the market. They will only cease when demand and supply are again in a healthy relationship. This is not in sight. On the contrary, digitization will only increase competition.

For retailers, it is therefore about developing strategic business models that enable higher prices – with a clear concept that sets you apart from the competition and with competitive cost structures that, despite everything, enable the retailer to stay prof itable; and ultimately with creative marketing that stimulates demand. This is only possible by offering quality and performance and not by constantly announcing special prices. Thank God the perception of quality is highly subjective in fashion. For some, a product’s value consists of traditional qualities such as material, workmanship and reliable fit. For others, it’s important whether the product adheres to social and environmental standards. There are customers that look for the latest fashion trends and others for whom image and exclusivity are what matter. Many appreciate an attractive shopping environment. Some need personal advice. Many are looking for social contacts and entertainment. We all like things to be convenient – that’s not lastly why online shopping is booming. It definitely can’t be the price alone. The discounters do that best.

Jürgen Müller is the author of P R O FA S H I O N A L S . With over

7,000 subscribers, Profashionals is the leading German-language fashion business blog. Müller worked for “ T E X T I LW I R T S C H A F T ” for over 20 years, lastly as editor-inchief. Today, with his HR consulting firm S U I T S , he fills top positions in the fashion and lifestyle business.


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Panorama Berlin | Spring/Summer 2017  
Panorama Berlin | Spring/Summer 2017