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Urban Marginality in Hong Kong’s Global Diaspora

Urban Marginality in Hong Kong’s Global Diaspora

“...an insightful documentation of urban lives in Hong Kong full of useful information for those of us who explore a city with a view of urban design, social marginalization, and activated streetscape.”

—Saehoon Kim, Associate Professor of Urban Studies and Design, Seoul National University Graduate School of Environmental Studies

“A terrific examination of the vibrant underbelly of Hong Kong life that provides for the often-ignored, marginalised fragments that are essential to the urban whole. ”

—Austin Williams, Director, Future Cities Project, Architecture Review Journalist, and author of “China Urban Revolution”

“This book presents a well-researched and personally informed study of an increasingly significant but neglected urban phenomenon: the ‘city without ground’, as Kenneth Frampton has called it. It provides a fascinating and multi-dimensional account of Hong Kong as an example of the ‘groundless city’ and should be essential reading for anyone with an interest in contemporary and emerging urbanism.”

—Dr Alan Reeve, Reader in Planning and Urban Design, Oxford Brookes University

“The book could not have been more timely. It examines the way in which public open spaces are colonised by Foreign Domestic Helpers (FDH) on their day of rest in Hong Kong, utilising a variety of spaces for socialising, relaxing and being part of the dense, modern and prosperous city. These spaces offer a sense of comfort, security and sociability to the community ‘on the margins’. This is in contrast to the image of the city often portrayed for its global and glossy architecture, the so called the ‘sphynx in the sky’ image, linked to a very modern vertical urbanism solutions, whereby spaces are defined as underground, ground and elevated levels.

The book is a very successful piece of work linking some of the leading theories on ‘the right’ to the city, place making and place-identity. The book also utilizes a very unique methodology applied in the field utilising IT, observational and participatory tools.

The key value is in discovering how the communities on the margins and ordinary residents of Hong Kong share these unusual social geographies of space, and when they do come together through a participatory art exercise of drawing their imaginary townscapes, become part of the same community of users.

The book will be of interest to all those concerned with contemporary urbanism, designers, but also scholars and students of social urban geographies of space.”

“It’s a longstanding fact that healthy, happy populations are more productive and reduce the massive costs of healthcare and social services. There is a gradual dawning of realisation amongst policy makers that the basic financial aspects of development have traditionally steamrollered the social and environmental elements and that the true costs of industrialisation and urbanisation have been hidden through much of the developed world. The real costs to society of this blind faith in simple rather than holistic economics are now, for the first time, being considered and accounted. Yet understanding social cost is a complex issue.

The built environment has a huge influence on how people act out their daily lives, more-so even than the influence of other people. In the past, Planners and Architects have noticeable failed to adequately address the social and environmental influences of their directives. Globally soaring income inequality, displaced populations and accelerating environmental destruction continue to drive social exclusion of vast numbers of populations where people not directly contributing to standard economic data become invisible, no longer seeming to really exist and are invisible to the planning process.

City growth has been obtained at a substantial price, and one that generally falls most heavily on the poorest and most vulnerable in society; those who are generally unable to benefit from development improvements themselves. They often suffer from the effects of other’s conveniences, with negative impacts that restrict their own freedoms; air and noise pollution; community severance and the loss of social cohesion. This book looks importantly at one type of under-represented but large and important urban community and how these residents are improvising, adapting and utilising the city’s inadequate places and spaces to create new forms of placemaking, social interaction and urban economics.”

Wilson, October 2018, Director of Hong Kong Initiatives, Vice-president of Hong Kong Institute of Urban Design

Urban Marginality in Hong Kong’s Global Diaspora

University of Hong Kong

Hong Kong, Hong Kong

ISBN 978-3-030-04641-5 ISBN 978-3-030-04642-2 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-04642-2

Library of Congress Control Number: 2018966710

© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2019

This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed.

The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations.

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List of figures

Fig. 1.1 Shophouse typology with commercial units at ground floor and residential accommodation above. (Source: Author) 3

Fig. 1.2 Cross section through the International Finance Centre development. (Source: Author) 4

Fig. 1.3 A room layout of less than 3 square metres for FDH use in an average Hong Kong apartment. (Source: Author) 6

Fig. 1.4 FDHs’ informal gathering space on roadway with temporary closure in Central District. (Source: Author) 7

Fig. 1.5 FDHs’ informal gathering in Victoria Park, creating a specific cultural landscape. (Source: Author) 8

Fig. 1.6 Spatial usage of Chater Road. On the left is a special event for an FDH gathering during temporary Sunday road closure. On the right shows the activity on a typical weekday. (Source: Author) 8

Fig. 1.7 FDHs’ gathering places within public space between the Central and Admiralty Districts. (Source: Author) 9

Fig. 1.8 FDHs’ gatherings below public footbridges in Central District. (Source: Author) 9

Fig. 1.9 Trade and usage of cardboard by FDHs for seating and enclosure along public walkways in Central District. (Source: Author) 10

Fig. 1.10 Trade and usage of cardboard by FDHs; the journey of the cardboard. (Source: Author) 10

Fig. 1.11 Public toilet displaying ‘no helpers, cleaners’ signage. (Source: Author) 11

Fig. 1.12 Sai Yeung Choi Street signage in Mong Kok, showing the vibrancy and variety of street life. (Source: Author) 12

Fig. 1.13 FDH gathering and pedestrian flow analysis from September 2016 to July 2017 within the Central District of Hong Kong, with data collection using Space Syntax. (Source: Author) 13

Fig. 1.14 Location map for four main research sites discussed in Chap. 2 (Source: Author) 14

Fig. 1.15 Location map for two main research sites discussed in Chap. 3 (Source: Author) 15

Fig. 1.16 Location map for four main research sites discussed in Chap. 4 (Source: Author) 16

Fig. 2.1 Green Umbrella installation, showing its function and form, including climate and temperature sensors. (Source: Author) 24

Fig. 2.2 Formal and informal public spaces and walkway linkage between the Central and Wan Chai Districts of Hong Kong. (Source: Author)

Fig. 2.3 Heat radiation analysis. (Source: Author)

Fig. 2.4 Heat radiation analysis of Gloucester Road Garden and surroundings. (Source: Author)

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Fig. 2.5 Heat radiation analysis of Victoria Park and surroundings. (Source: Author) 28

Fig. 2.6 Heat radiation analysis of Chater Road and surroundings. (Source: Author)

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Fig. 2.7 Wind rose analysis in Chater Road, September 2016. (Source: Author) 30

Fig. 2.8 Wind rose analysis in Wan Chai, September 2016. (Source: Author) 30

Fig. 2.9 Wind rose analysis in Causeway Bay, September 2016. (Source: Author) 31

Fig. 2.10 Sun-path analysis in Chater Road, September 2016. (Source: Author) 31

Fig. 2.11 Sun-path analysis in Wan Chai, September 2016. (Source: Author) 32

Fig. 2.12 Sun-path analysis in Causeway Bay, September 2016. (Source: Author)

Fig. 2.13 Urban microclimate analysis in Chater Road, September 2016. (Source: Author)

Fig. 2.14 Urban microclimate analysis in Wan Chai, September 2016. (Source: Author)

Fig. 2.15 Urban microclimate analysis in Causeway Bay, September 2016. (Source: Author)

Fig. 2.16 Visualization of Green Umbrella installation and usage within Victoria Park. (Source: Author)

Fig. 2.17a Design proposal for Green Umbrella installation. (Source: Author)

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Fig. 2.17b Design proposal for Green Umbrella installation and its potential impact on the streetscape of Central District.

(Source: Author)

Fig. 2.17c Design proposal for Green Umbrella installation and its potential impact on public space and landscaped area.

(Source: Author)

Fig. 3.1 Walkway and bridge usage, together with gathering points for FDHs on Sundays; GIS data. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.2 Pedestrian walkability and accessibility of the pavements in Wan Chai. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.3 Urban Network Analysis (UNA) assessment of open space, public transport and mobility. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.4 UNA assessment of public transportation and open space in relation to betweenness and closeness. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.5 UNA assessment of residential neighbourhood to open space in relation to betweenness and closeness. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.6 Walkability and accessibility between public transport and public space. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.7 Tramway network on Hong Kong Island. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.8 Hopewell Garden location and transportation system; GIS data. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.9 Interviews with different users. (Source: Author, 2017)

Fig. 3.10 Elevated walkway from Wan Chai MTR station to Hopewell Centre. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.11 Privately owned ‘public space’ between Hopewell Centre and Wu Chung House. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.12 Layered accessibility through the privately owned public space adjacent to Hopewell Centre. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.13 Sam Pan Street location and transportation system; GIS data. (Source: Author)

Fig. 3.14 Elevated walkway from Wan Chai MTR station towards Sam Pan Street and the FDHs’ local church. (Source: Author, 2018)

Fig. 3.15 Sam Pan Street pocket park street layout. (Source: Author, 2018)

Fig. 3.16 Sam Pan Street pocket park accessibility and usage by FDHs. (Source: Author, 2018)

Fig. 3.17 Interviews with different users. (Source: Author, 2018)

Fig. 4.1a HSBC building public square with FDH gatherings, after the 2012 renovation. (Source: Author)

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Fig. 4.1b HSBC building public square with FDH gatherings, prior to 2012 renovation. (Source: Author) 76

Fig. 4.2 A map showing the four case study areas. (Source: Author 2018)

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Fig. 4.3 FDHs’ footpath and flows assessed using a 10 m2 grid. (Source: Author, 2017, based on William Whyte’s research methods) 78

Fig. 4.4 Memorial service for Japanese troops held at the former cricket club on Chater Road, December 1941. (Source: South China Morning Post) 80

Fig. 4.5 The designer of the second stage of Chater Garden. (Source: South China Morning Post, December, 1983)

81

Fig. 4.6 Land use along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 82

Fig. 4.7 Users’ flow and density along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 82

Fig. 4.8 Green spaces along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 83

Fig. 4.9 Location and quantity of public seats along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 83

Fig. 4.10 Location of FDHs’ activities along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 84

Fig. 4.11 Informal and formal FDH gathering spaces along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 84

Fig. 4.12 Walkaway and walkability along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 85

Fig. 4.13 Transportation network along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 85

Fig. 4.14 Summary of FDHs’ activities around the study area. (Source: Author) 86

Fig. 4.15a GIS_human flows and density in Central. (Source: Author) 87

Fig. 4.15b GIS_human flows and density along Chater Road. (Source: Author) 88

Fig. 4.16 FDHs’ specific behaviours in relation to the surrounding built form. (Source: Author) 89

Fig. 4.17 Social and environmental life cycle via consumption and recycling of cardboard used by FDHs. (Source: Author) 90

Fig. 4.18 Worldwide House’s exterior viewed from Des Voeux Road. (Source: Author) 91

Fig. 4.19 Interior view of Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 92

Fig. 4.20 Interior usage of Worldwide House and surrounding buildings. (Source: Author) 93

Fig. 4.21 Users’ flow and pedestrian density surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 94

Fig. 4.22 Green spaces near Worldwide House on Des Voeux Road. (Source: Author) 94

Fig. 4.23 Area and quantity of public seating surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 95

Fig. 4.24 Location of FDHs’ actual gathering areas within and surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 95

Fig. 4.25 Location of FDHs’ formal and informal gathering areas within and surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 96

Fig. 4.26 Walkability on streets surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 96

Fig. 4.27 Transportation network surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 97

Fig. 4.28 Summary of FDHs’ activities surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 98

Fig. 4.29a GIS; human flows and density in Central. (Source: Author) 99

Fig. 4.29b GIS; human flows and density surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 100

Fig. 4.30a Density of human flows at street level surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 101

Fig. 4.30b Density of human flows at elevated walkway level surrounding Worldwide House. (Source: Author) 102

Fig. 4.31 Site map showing pedestrian bridges crossing Gloucester Road leading to Wan Chai MTR station. (Source: Author) 103

Fig. 4.32 Management guidelines and signage within Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 105

Fig. 4.33 Gloucester Road Garden seating and landscape features. (Source: Author) 106

Fig. 4.34 Land use along Gloucester Road. (Source: Author) 107

Fig. 4.35 Pedestrian flow and density along Gloucester Road. (Source: Author) 107

Fig. 4.36 Green spaces along Gloucester Road 108

Fig. 4.37 Location and quantity of public seats along Gloucester Road. (Source: Author) 108

Fig. 4.38 Location of FDHs’ actual gathering areas within and surrounding Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 109

Fig. 4.39 Location of FDHs’ formal and informal gathering areas within and surrounding Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 109

Fig. 4.40 Walkability on streets surrounding Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 110

Fig. 4.41 Transportation network surrounding Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 110

Fig. 4.42 Summary of FDHs’ activities surrounding Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 111

Fig. 4.43 GIS; human flows and density surrounding Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 112

Fig. 4.44 Density of FDHs’ gatherings at street level surrounding Gloucester Road Garden. (Source: Author) 113

Fig. 4.45 Site map showing the location of Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 114

Fig. 4.46 Public facilities within Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 114

Fig. 4.47 FDHs’ activities within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 115

Fig. 4.48 Land use around Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 116

Fig. 4.49 Pedestrian flow and density surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author)

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Fig. 4.50 Green spaces within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 117

Fig. 4.51 Location and quantity of public seats within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author)

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Fig. 4.52 Location of FDHs’ actual gathering areas within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 118

Fig. 4.53 Location of FDHs’ formal and informal gathering areas within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 118

Fig. 4.54 Walkability within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 119

Fig. 4.55 Transportation network linkage to Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 119

Fig. 4.56 Summary of FDHs’ activities within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 120

Fig. 4.57 GIS; human flows and density within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 121

Fig. 4.58 Density of FDHs’ gatherings at street level within and surrounding Victoria Park. (Source: Author) 122

Fig. 5.1 Invitation poster for the street event ‘Drawing the Street We Share’. (Source: Author) 132

Fig. 5.2 Participation in the street event. (Source: Author) 132

Fig. 5.3 The different key actor groups’ involvement in the street event. (Source: Author) 133

Fig. 5.4 Roadside discussion during the street event, set against a backdrop of luxury retail. (Source: Author) 133

Fig. 5.5 FDHs’ engagement in the street event. (Source: Author) 135

Fig. 5.6 Local musicians’ performance at the street event. (Source: Author) 135

Fig. 5.7 Local residents’ participation. (Source: Author) 136

Fig. 5.8 Local artists and academics participate in the street event. (Source: Author) 136

Fig. 5.9 Drawing the Street We Share. (Source: Author) 137

Fig. 5.10 FDHs and local residents share the street event. (Source: Author)

Fig. 5.11 Street sculpture to attract people to gather. (Source: Author)

Fig. 5.12 Fifteen-metre-long paper and sculpture on the street. (Source: Author)

Fig. 5.13 Engagement from a range of key actor groups in the street event. (Source: Author)

Fig. 5.14 The street event alongside FDHs’ street gathering with their own tents. (Source: Author)

Fig. 5.15 FDHs participate in the street event. (Source: Author)

Fig. 5.16 FDHs’ tents, the street event and passers-by on Chater Road between Cartier and Prada luxury retail stores. (Source: Author)

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CHAPTER 1

New Spaces of Urban Marginality Within the Global Diaspora of Hong Kong: Introduction

Abstract This chapter examines the spatial structure of social division in Hong Kong and stresses the impact of the urban marginalities on both the social and physical aspects of the urban environment in Hong Kong. This gives an evolving meaning for cultural landscape and provides a new social map of people and place within the context of the physical built form in Hong Kong.

Keywords Urban marginality • Healthy city • Accessibility of public space • Sense of place • Informal and formal public space

IntroductIon

Hong Kong has developed into an extremely dense living condition within which to work and live. As a global financial hub, multinational banks and corporate institutions, together with the elite of the retail and commercial world, invest huge sums in siting and creating headquarters for themselves here. These buildings are in many cases co-joined via elevated walkways to transport interchanges, large residential complexes and hotels, leading some to observe that the resulting urban condition is effectively a ‘city without ground’ (Frampton et al. 2012). Although the ground in question is still there, it has clearly become compromised, disconnected and marginalized by the insertion of these vast networks of finance, consumption and fluffy towels. This street and public space network is made use of by social groups who themselves are disconnected and marginalized from

© The Author(s) 2019

H. S. Choi, Urban Marginality in Hong Kong’s Global Diaspora, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-04642-2_1

1

all this wealth and luxury. This book depicts a view from both of these marginalities, the spatial and the social, to understand how the character of these urban spaces and the identities of the social groups in occupation is, and could be, operationalized in urban form.

This chapter comprises three parts. The first part uses Abel’s theory (1997) to review the development of the spatial structure of Hong Kong. This review can help to understand how the evolution in urban form of Hong Kong, and how it is utilized, has been influenced by both the design ideology of globalization and the local socio-cultural context of the city. The second part examines how significant and collective gatherings of certain social groups within public space contributes to the social, cultural and economic character of Hong Kong and how this might be interpreted as a new form of cultural landscape. Finally, the third part of the chapter stresses the impact of this urban marginality on both the social and physical aspects of the urban environment in Hong Kong, giving an evolving meaning for this ‘cultural landscape’ and providing a new social map of the people and places of Hong Kong.

SpatIal Structure In Hong Kong

The tension between globalism and locality was highlighted by Abel (1997: 201) with a new design ideology in which the local informs the global and the global the local. Abel’s term definitions ‘traditional culture’ and ‘colonial culture’ stand in contrast to the culture of global homogeneity that continues to be a characteristic of the contemporary city, advocating for different typologies in built form to be applied to different forms of economic and cultural development. This evolution in typological characteristics can acknowledge the multilayered cultural diversity that exists in the city and represents a significant change that can provide a new definition to place identity, including both rootedness and evolution in urban form.

Hong Kong has its own characteristics of built form informed by its history, its scale and its population density. Irregularities of street orientation, block size, building types and pedestrian circulation, informed by the varied topography of the island city, provide a particular character and richness, as do the large-scale transit-orientated development complexes that have been introduced since the latter part of the twentieth century.

In the earlier part of the twentieth century the most common building typology on Hong Kong Island was the three- to six-storey shophouse, a building type introduced in colonial cities across Southeast Asia in the late

H.

Fig. 1.1 Shophouse typology with commercial units at ground floor and residential accommodation above. (Source: Author)

nineteenth century. Fast forward a hundred years and whilst a small proportion of these shophouses and the urban terrain they sat on have been retained, the city has generally shot skywards, and outwards, with rows of shophouses now supplanted by podium blocks upon which a vast array of tower blocks sit, and the coves and natural harbours that formed the island’s northern coastline built out with new developments and highways on reclaimed land (Figs. 1.1 and 1.2).

SocIal and cultural cHangeS

From 1965 to 1989 Hong Kong’s economy grew ‘at an annual rate of nearly 6.5 per cent’ (Rowley and Fitzgerald 2000), with a particular demand for workers in the service industry. As a growing proportion of family households included both parents in work, this produced an increased demand for domestic workers. In parallel with the economic growth in Hong Kong, the economic climate in neighbouring Philippines was contracting, with a growing rate of unemployment. In response the government put in place policies to

Fig. 1.2 Cross section through the International Finance Centre development. (Source: Author)

promote the export of the country’s labour force. In 1975 the first 1000 foreign domestic helpers (FDHs) from the Philippines were approved for entry into Hong Kong on a domestic workers’ contract (Law 2002: 1635).

This condition of supply and demand for FDHs continues, with other Asian countries, including Indonesia and Thailand, joining the Philippines in adopting policies to encourage the export of their labour force. In 2017,

domestic worker contracts summed up to a total of 3,70,000 (Census and Statistics Department Hong Kong 2018). This group of largely female migrants, forming approximately 10% of Hong Kong’s work force, has become a part of Hong Kong’s economy that is both integral and yet intentionally marginalized; their right to stay in Hong Kong is sponsored by and limited to their employer on a repeatedly temporal two-year working visa, with no possibility of achieving permanent residence.

tHe evolvIng defInItIon of publIc and prIvate Space

A further requirement of the domestic worker contract in Hong Kong is that FDHs are legally required to live with their employer within the home in which they work. The cost of accommodation in Hong Kong per square foot is amongst the highest in the world, meaning that although an employer can afford the low salary required to secure the services of an FDH, the space offered for them to live is often very limited. Whilst there are protections in place within the contract for the FDH to be offered a reasonable amount of private space within the home, in practice this right is difficult for the FDH to assert once employed. As a result a large proportion of helpers live without private space, sleeping in rooms shared with the employers’ children or elderly relatives.

One aspect of the domestic working contract that is more consistently honoured by employers is the weekly day of rest. Typically, on Sunday, FDHs have a day off and tend to leave the employer’s home and seek space and the company of others on the streets and public parks of Hong Kong. On these days this marginalized group of FDHs creates a social space as a form of ‘cultural landscape’ and as a manifestation of an ‘ongoing relationship between people and place’ (Mitchell 2000: 102) (Fig. 1.3).

Every Sunday the FDHs recreate their own culture, community and sense of place within distinct parts of Hong Kong—with specific areas and identifiable zones now established with distinct character, activity and cultural differentiation, alongside Filipina helpers tending to gather around Central and Indonesian helpers, choosing Causeway Bay.

An interesting by-product of these activities on Sunday is a small but sustainable micro-economy of used cardboard sellers, utilized by FDHs as ground covering for group gatherings and forming small upturned enclosures. Through careful selection of clean cardboard of appropriate size, and through operation of mobile market stalls traversing the areas of most

Fig. 1.3 A room layout of less than 3 square metres for FDH use in an average Hong Kong apartment. (Source: Author)

usage by domestic helpers on Sundays, the sellers hope to increase the return on the standard price of HK$ 2 per kilo for recycled cardboard (Figs. 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 and 1.10).

On any weekday and on Saturdays, these areas of public space are used by the local communities and residents in a pattern of transit and relaxation that may be considered typical of any urban environment. However, on Sunday, the usage is much more particular and dynamic. There appears to be no social interaction between the groups of FDHs taking rest and other local residents in the neighbourhood. During the daytime, the public space slowly becomes fully occupied by FDH groups. This occupation continues until the late evening, at which point the FDHs begin to leave and the cardboard traders move in with empty trolleys to retrieve the cardboard sold earlier in the day for reselling to recycling centres. A cleaning team from the local government also carries out work to tidy the area. This all takes place with only minimal interaction and engagement between the separate groups.

Fig. 1.4 FDHs’ informal gathering space on roadway with temporary closure in Central District. (Source: Author)

Fig. 1.5 FDHs’ informal gathering in Victoria Park, creating a specific cultural landscape. (Source: Author)

Fig. 1.6 Spatial usage of Chater Road. On the left is a special event for an FDH gathering during temporary Sunday road closure. On the right shows the activity on a typical weekday. (Source: Author)

cultural landScape created by urban MargInalIty In Hong Kong

Places may be viewed as constructs of unique geographic, physical and environmental characteristics, combined with unique cultural circumstances and human interventions (Clifford and King 1993). Users experience place through social activities and cultural engagement, generating

Fig. 1.7 FDHs’ gathering places within public space between the Central and Admiralty Districts. (Source: Author)

Fig. 1.8 FDHs’ gatherings below public footbridges in Central District. (Source: Author)

Fig. 1.9 Trade and usage of cardboard by FDHs for seating and enclosure along public walkways in Central District. (Source: Author)

Fig. 1.10 Trade and usage of cardboard by FDHs; the journey of the cardboard. (Source: Author)

distinctive experimental characteristics, and place identity is established when these characteristics complement the physical elements of built form within an urban development.

Each Sunday a large portion of the 3,70,000 FDHs resident in Hong Kong join together to interweave aspects of culture and power that are difficult to unravel without new theoretical tools. These domestic workers temporarily disrupt their position within a hierarchy of employer/ employee social relations and in the process define new networks and links across a range of spaces that temporarily redefine their identity (Fig. 1.11).

Put another way, a ‘social space’ emerges, a space that reflects the political economy of labour migration and domestic work. FDHs—by virtue of their status as live-in domestic workers—have few places in their everyday lives to feel ‘at home’, and gathering in public space can provide relief from working in a foreign culture. At the same time, the city itself is always active and fluid—filled with signs and meanings that connect different places, people and relationships at different junctures (Fig. 1.12).

In her article ‘Defying Disappearance: Cosmopolitan Public Space in Hong Kong’ (2002), Lisa Law highlights the difficulty in defining the quality of public space given the context of these layers of different usage

1.11 Public toilet displaying ‘no helpers, cleaners’ signage. (Source: Author)

Fig.

by separate groups within the urban marginality. The spatial complexity of the city’s public space is also highlighted in Frampton’s ‘Cities Without Ground’ (2012).

It is within this context that a spatially specific transnational cultural landscape has taken root that raises the following questions:

1. How does this cultural landscape influence the occupation and usage of public space in Hong Kong?

2. What are the common characteristics of the public spaces being occupied?

3. Can the social life of small urban space benefit the urban marginalities?

4. How can we characterize the place identity created by this body politic on the pavements of Hong Kong?

5. What can be the tangible and intangible challenges in linking the marginal with the central?

Through theoretical and empirical analysis, this research seeks to unpack the production of these new cultural landscapes in Hong Kong through a better understanding of the institutions and other key actors involved and by observing and analysing the patterns of usage of the urban marginalities involved.

Fig. 1.12 Sai Yeung Choi Street signage in Mong Kok, showing the vibrancy and variety of street life. (Source: Author)

reSearcH MetHodology

This book focuses specifically on the elevated and subterranean walkway systems in the city that are purposefully distinct from the ground plane. Frampton et al. (2012) describe how Hong Kong enhances this threedimensional (3D) connectivity to such a degree that a reference to the ground altogether can be eliminated: ‘Hong Kong is a city without ground’ (p. 6).

Taking a more spatial and specifically urban approach to Law’s study, this book uses empirical evidence, based on observation studies carried out over a 10-month period from September 2016 to July 2017. Visualization and advanced mapping techniques have been used to demonstrate the impact of the periodic usage of public space by FDHs across the central area of the city, from Sheung Wan in the west across to Tin Hau in the east (Fig. 1.13).

Fig. 1.13 FDH gathering and pedestrian flow analysis from September 2016 to July 2017 within the Central District of Hong Kong, with data collection using Space Syntax. (Source: Author)

This data analysis was done using AutoCAD 2D and Rhino 3D, geographical information system (GIS) and UNA (Urban Network Analysis) to produce time-based visualizations of data showing patterns of occupation over this 10-month period.

The case studies include four main sites on Hong Kong Island between Sheung Wan in the west across to Tin Hau in the east: (1) Chater Road and Worldwide House in Central, (2) a public space in front of the Immigration Tower in Wan Chai, (3) a series of pocket parks close to commercial and civic amenities in Wan Chai, and (4) Victoria Park and adjacent streets in Causeway Bay (Figs. 1.14, 1.15 and 1.16).

Three-dimensional mappings and diagrams describe the FDHs’ occupation of the selected public spaces. Together with visualized data, this research also conducted interviews with FDHs, together with other relevant participants such as non-governmental organisations (NGOs), business owners, professionals and employers. To understand the evolution and history of these spaces, secondary sources, including newspaper articles, published literature and, in some cases, Internet blogs, forums and discussions, were used to draw conclusions on the dynamics of the space prior to and during the time of observation.

dIScuSSIon

In 1997 Hong Kong became a part of the People’s Republic of China. The transfer of Hong Kong’s sovereignty from Great Britain to China is an extraordinary legislative shift that has influenced in an evolving way the

Fig. 1.14 Location map for four main research sites discussed in Chap. 2. (Source: Author)

Fig. 1.15 Location map for two main research sites discussed in Chap. 3. (Source: Author)

Fig. 1.16 Location map for four main research sites discussed in Chap. 4. (Source: Author)

nature of the city’s cosmopolitan capitalism and migration patterns. Lee and Wong (2004) observed Hong Kong as a city ‘reinforced by the neoliberal policies adopted by the advanced capitalist states which relax their borders and encourages the transnational flows of people’. The labour market of the city tends to have employment practices and a weak union structure that favours the employer and a strong economy with an international reach that encourages large-scale immigration and a tendency towards social and occupational polarization.

A growing population of FDHs and other urban marginalities are the result of this.

The distinguishable cultural landscape produced by this urban marginality at the street level has become as much a part of the city as the eyecatching monuments of finance above. Once the qualities of this street-level and marginal inhabitation are characterized, what can be learnt about both of these localized and globalized worlds? What patterns does this identify for how these social and environmental aspects may influence the evolution and development of the city in the near future? Where will the city go from here?

With an ever-receding and marginalized ground place, Hong Kong has connectivity. On the north shore of Hong Kong Island, it is possible to walk across three urban districts, from Sheung Wan to Central to Wan Chai, without ever having to leave a continuous network of elevated or underground pedestrian passageways and interconnected malls and office lobbies. This infrastructural network, including staircases of less than a

H. S. CHOI

Another random document with no related content on Scribd:

LIBYAN DESERT AND ENNEDI

S S C , L

Map for “Mysteries of the Libyan Desert.” (Large-size)

INDEX AND GLOSSARY

Ababda tribe, 25

’Abd el Atif, camel driver, 200; magician, 271

’Abd el Qadr el Jilany, founder of Qadria dervishes, 134

’Abd el Wahad, Sheykh, 64, 67, 73, 74, 243

’Abd er Rahman Musa Said, 25, 27, 34, 47, 76, 85, 86, 104, 105, 116, 117, 122, 124, 132, 147, 148, 151-156, 161-192, 196, 199, 203, 206, 217, 234, 236, 238-240

’Abd es Salem ben Mashish, founder of the Mashishia dervishes, 132

’Abdul Ati, 135

’Abdul Hamid, Sultan of Turkey, 106, 127

’Abdulla abu Reesha, 134, 136, 148-155, 164-182, 190-192, 196, 199

’Abdulla Kahal, Senussi agent in Cairo, 245

Abeh ’Abdulla, 182

Abeshr, 296-298

Abu el Hul, sphinx-like rock, 36

Abu Moharik dunes, 31, 84, 203

Abu Naim Oasis, 304

Adam, 256; Sheykh, tree of, 263

Afrit, spirit, ghost, 113, 140-143, 187-189

Agaba, el, pass, 305

Agal, Hobbles, 33

Ahmed el Biskri, the Senussi Mahdi’s double, 108, 109

Ahmed el Mawhub, Sheykh, 62-74, 106, 144, 147, 149, 242

Ahmed esh Sheriff, head sheykh of the Senussia, 239

Aid el Mahmal, festival in Kharga, 258

’Ain, a spring or well, in the oases an old “Roman” well

’Ain Amur, 33, 36, 202, 215, 232, 243, 246, 294, 305, 310, 311, 315

’Ain Ebsay, 229

’Ain el Agwa, 231, 246, 304

’Ain el Baytha, 296

’Ain el Belad, 229

’Ain el Hagar, 326

’Ain el Jemala, 37

’Ain el Massim, 262

’Ain el Wady, 304

’Ain Embarres, 29, 137, 202, 215

’Ain Guettara, 335

’Ain Hamur, 29, 137

’Ain Khalif, 231, 246, 304

’Ain Sheykh Murzuk, 225, 230, 231, 304, 319

’Ain Um Debadib, 136, 137, 310, 312, 315, 316

Aiyub, Sultans of Turkey, 260

Albinos, 261

’Alem, a landmark, generally a pile of stones, 85-88, 96, 112, 116

Alexandria, 304

Algeria, libraries in, 19

Algerian Sahara, 18

’Ali Dinar, Sultan of Darfur, 199, 210

’Ali Kashuta, 44

Amaim tribe, 332

Antiquities, 29, 32, 37, 50, 136, 137, 206, 223, 263, 298, 299, 314-316

Ants, 286

Arabia, 299, 306

Arabic language, 22

“Arab telegraph,” 21

Araj, oasis, 302, 304

Aratha, 296

Architecture, 42, 43, 49, 65, 313, 314, 318

Ardeb, 300 lbs.

Arkenu, 321

Asara, 296, 298, 306

Asses, wild, 303

Assiut, 26, 128, 132, 196, 197, 199, 222, 243, 245, 304, 305

Astronomy, 118, 119

Aswan, 305

Atlas mountains, 301

Atrun, el, 300, 303

Auguries, 249

Aujila, 304, 306

Awazim tribe, 332

Ayb, snub, insult, 45, 221, 238

Bab es Saba See “the Gate of the Morning”

Baghallet el Ashar, “the mule of the tenth,” 257

Baharia, 221, 229, 304, 311, 318, 319

Bahnessa, 304

Bahrein, 301, 304

Bahr el Ghazal, 301

Bahr esh Shaytan, Satan’s sea See Mirage

Bakhshish, tips, 43

Baki, 296

Baldness, 262

Ball, Dr, John, 310, 312, 315

Barbary sheep, 303

Barr, dried manure used as fuel, 123

Barrenness in women, charms, etc., against, 262

Barrum Wady See Bahr el Ghazal

Barth, H., 335

Basket work, 32

Bates, Oric, 334

Battikh, a form of sand erosion, 28, 202, 308

Bau, 296

Beadnell, H. Ll., 307

Bedadi, 296, 298

Bedawi, pl Bedawin, a nomad

Bedayat race, 116, 131, 134, 199, 207, 210, 220, 221, 263, 295, 296, 299, 302, 303

Bees, 283

Bekker el Wahash, 303

Belad esh Shaytan, Satan’s country, 47

Belat, 37, 151, 294, 303, 317; ’omda of, 37, 138, 139

Benghazi, 306

Beni Adi, 304, 305

Berberines, 22

Berdis, 24, 25

Beris, 305, 313

Bersim, clover, 47

Bey, a military title

Bidau, 296-298

Bilharsia, 144

Bir, a well; in the oases a modern one

Bir ’Abd el Qadr, 222

Bir ’Ain Sheykh Mufta, 328

Bir Dikker, 304

Bir el Hamia, 57

Bir el Jebel, 60

Bir Kairowin, 222, 224

Bir Labayat, 227, 304

Bir Magnun, 51

Bir Mansura ’Abdulla, 341

Bir Murr, 222

Bir Natrun, 134, 305, 321

Bir Sheykh Mohammed, 60

Bir Terfawi, 305, 321

Bird-trap, 267, 268

Birth ceremonies, 249

Bisharin, 332

Biskra, 108, 302

Blind gardener in Mut, 139, 140

Boema, 298

“Books of treasure,” 52-56, 58, 145, 203-207, 212, 214

Borku, 299, 300, 335

Borselain, a plant, 261

“Bristle tails,” 283

Bronchitis, 261

Brugsch, H. K., 315

Bu el Agul, grave, 128

Bu Gerara, 201, 203-215, 219, 246

Bu Mungar, 97, 230-236, 244, 246, 287, 299, 304, 307, 309

Bu Senata, 298

Bu Zibad, 298

Budkhulu, 56, 317

Buhuruz, 297

Bulaq, 32, 313

Burnus, a native cloak, 93

Busa, dried stalks of maize, etc.

Buseima, 301

Bushara, 296, 298-300, 306

Butterflies, 283

Cairo, 21-23

Cambyses, King, mines of, 53; army sent to Siwa, 220

Camel brands See wasm

Camel corps, 135

Camel drivers, 25, 34

Camel firing a, 92

Camel fly, 24

Camels, 35, 36, 94, 136, 137

„ watering of, 116-118, 124

Cana, F. R., 293

Cartouche writing, 334

Castles, 314, 315

Chad, Lake, 301

Chalk, 222, 224

Chanties of camel drivers, 268, 269

Charms, 251, 252

Churning, 265

Circumcision, 251, 253, 256

Clairvoyance, 271-279

Clay ridges, 31, 308, 309

Coins dug up, 206, 211, 214

Col de Zenaga, 334

Cooking of the bedawin, 206, 207

Coptic remains, 37, 314. See also Antiquities

Copts, 257, 270, 314

Cotton moth, 283

Cradles, 260

Cranes, 288

Crocodiles, 301; drawings of, 335

Crossbow, 268

Cryptograms of the Tawarek, 335

Cultivation and vegetation, 41, 48, 49, 51, 56, 75, 228, 229, 230, 241, 243, 247, 264, 294, 303, 309-313, 316, 318

Cupping, 152

Customs. See Manners and Customs

Cyrenaica, 293

Cyrus the Great, 54

Dahab, Suleyman Gindi, 22, 34, 110, 132, 142, 143, 162-167, 192, 199, 217, 234, 238, 239, 244

Dakhakhin, 313

Dakhla, 18, 32, 36-81, 90, 91, 128, 130, 138-159, 202, 203, 225, 227, 229, 231, 235, 246, 248-265, 280-284, 288, 294, 300, 303-305, 310, 311, 316-319, 320, 321

Dancing, 193, 254

Darfur, 305; ’Ali Dinar, Sultan of, 199, 210

Darius I, King of Persia, 315

Darius II, King of Persia, 315

Dawa, magical invocation, 272-279

Deafness, 261

Dendura, 199, 200, 299, 300, 304

Dengue fever, 144

Depots, 158, 159, 164, 173-175, 180

Der, a large building or monastery

Der ed, 314, 315

Der Abu Madi, 50, 53, 55

Der el ’Ain, 53

Der el Arais, 145

Der el Banat, 53, 55

Der el Hagar, 58, 78

Der el Seba’a Banat, 53, 55, 101

Der Muhurug, 202

Derb, road

„ el Arbain, 297, 305

„ ed Deri, 202

„ el Gubary, 128, 243, 284, 305, 336-346

„ el Khashabi, 203, 305

„ et Tawil, 128, 201-205, 212, 305, 307

„ et Terfawi, 294, 305

Derr, 305

Dervishes, 19-21, 25, 133, 134, 182

“Desert Mosque,” 233

Desiccation of the desert, 212

Dhayat en Neml, 294

Divorce, 251

Dongola, 298

Dorcas gazelle, 282

Dovecots, 315

Dragon flies, 284

Dress of bride, 252

Drunkenness, 45, 46

Duck, 284

Dumbness, 261

Dunes. See Sand

Dungun, 305

Dush, 313, 314

Duveyrier, H., 335

Eagles, 284, 288

Earthenware, 253

Edfu, 54

Educated Egyptians, 144-146

“Egyptian Oasis,” 300, 304, 320, 321

Eiffel Tower time signals, 297

Electrical phenomena, 93, 94, 307

Emphysema, 261

Endi, 210

Enver Pasha, 105

Epilepsy, 261

Equipment, 33, 34, 206

Erbayana, 299, 301, 302

Erosion. See Sand

Ershay lake, 300-302

Ertha, 296, 299

Erwully, 296, 299, 300

Esna, 53, 54, 213, 305

Eve, 256

Evil eye, 250

Ezba, hamlet, farm, of Sheykh Ahmed, 60, 64-74

Ezbet Sheykh Mufta, 145

Fahal, eight-year-old camel, 35

Families, size of, in oases, 262

Fantasia, “powder play,” 253, 259

Farafaroni, natives of Farafra Oasis, 225

Farafra, 199, 200, 207, 218-231, 246, 266, 288, 294, 304, 307, 310, 311, 318

Farshut, 305

Faruwia, 297

Fas, a hoe, 264

Fasher, el, 296-298

Fatha, el, the first chapter of the Koran, 252

Fatimite dynasty, 259

Fauna, 24, 32, 36, 79, 88, 97, 247, 280-292, 301, 303, 318

Fayum, 301, 304

“Feathered” snake, 286

Fellah, pl. fellahin, an Egyptian peasant

Ferikh, pop-corn, 69

Fever, 30

Figuig Oasis, 334

Fiki, a minor holy man, 254, 255, 259

Fire making, 122, 124, 228

Flags, used in ceremonies, 253, 254, 259

Flatters, Col., expedition of, 162

Flies, 283, 287, 288

Flora, 28, 32, 49, 96-98, 111, 222, 223, 228, 229, 232, 233, 247, 258, 280, 282, 291, 292, 294, 318

Fly, camel, 318

Flying lizard. See issulla

Fodder, difficulty in procuring, 138, 139, 151, 155-157

Fog in desert, 310

Forbes, Mrs. Rosita, 306

Formah, 297

Fox, spotted, seen, 281, 288

Funerals, 254-256

Funfun, well, 296, 298

Furwa, sheepskin, 33

Gada, sportsman

Gahaz, things brought by a bride to her new home, 253

Gara, a rocky hill

Gara bu Gerara, 203-205

Gara esh Shorfa, 334

Garden of Eden, 214, 256

Gardener, blind man in Mut, 139, 140

Garet, dim. of gara

Garet ed Dahab, 205

Garet el Leben, 302

Gassi, a sand free path through dunes, 304

“Gate of the Morning,” 96, 118

Gazelle, 37, 215, 223, 282, 288; trap for, 266, 267

Gedida, 75, 145, 304, 317, 318

Gennah, 313

Geology, 28, 33, 83, 84, 88, 90, 112, 115, 216, 220, 294

Gerara, 330

Geryville, 334, 335

Ghul, a cannibal ghost, 140-143

Girga, 305

Girgof, el, 294

Giza, 304

Glass, dug up, 206, 214

Gorgi Michael, 43

Gorn el Gennah, 315

Graffiti, 247, 326-336

Gramophones, 70

Grasshoppers, 283

Graves, pattern of, 255

“Great oasis,” 310

Grey hair, 262

Gritstone hill, 83

Gubary road. See Derb el Gubary

Guebar Rashim, 334

Guehda. See Qasr el Guehda

Guest chambers, 49, 61, 65

Guides, 25, 26, 134; skill of, 105, 112

Gula, earthenware water bottle, 66

Gurba, skin water bag, 97, 132

Gurba patches, 97

Gurban, an old gold coin, 56

Guru, 301

Guss abu Said, 227, 231, 304

Guttara well, 296, 300

Haggi, a man who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca

Hair, ceremony on first cutting a child’s, 250

Hair dressing, 253

Hamamla tribe, 330

Harb tribe, 330

Harda, 335

Harubga, a game, 335

Hashish, Indian hemp, 135, 137, 261

Hassanein Bey, 298, 306, 319-321

Hassun tribe, 330

Hattia, uninhabited oasis

Hawerti tribe, 332

Heg, a three-year-old camel, 35

Heraldry among Arabs, 330

Hibis temple, 29, 315; town, 314

High level oasis, 316, 319

Hills in desert, shapes of, 88, 90, 111, 115, 309

Hindau, 41, 154, 238, 317

Horses, 48, 50

Hoskins, 315

Hospitality, 38, 39, 50, 66-74, 136, 193

Hram, a plaid-like garment worn in Tripoli, 41

Hurj, saddle-bags, 33

Hurry tribe and lake, 302

Hussein, grandson of the prophet Mohammed, 256

Hyena, 281

Ibn ed Dris, Sheykh of Farafra zawia, 228, 229, 234

Ibn esh Sha’ar, one-year-old camel, 35

Ibn es Sena, one-year-old camel, 35

Ibn Lebun, two-year-old camel, 35

Ibrahim Musa Said, camel driver, 132-135, 140-143, 148, 151-155, 163, 180182, 199-201, 216, 221, 234

Ibrahim, Sheykh of the zawia at Qasr Dakhl, 61, 62

Ibrahim Zaky, mamur of Mut, 43-46

Iddaila, 97, 199, 207, 227, 231, 234, 246, 302, 304, 309

Immorality, 143, 251, 260

Insects, list of, 322

Interference between artesian wells, 244

Invasion of Egypt by the Senussia, 106, 127

Iron pyrites, 224

Irrigation. See Cultivation

“Islands of the Blest,” 311

Issulla, a flying lizard, probably mythical, 285, 286

Italians in Tripoli, 135, 198

Jackals, 280-282, 288

Jaghabub, 301, 304

Jaja, 313

Jaj Mohammed, el, 335

Jalo, 60, 301, 304, 306

Jebel, lit mountain, in Egypt the desert, 28, 319

„ Abdulla, 115, 151, 153, 154, 158, 159, 173, 177, 300, 303

„ Dakar, 302

„ Edmondstone, 236

„ el Bayed, 112-118, 148, 149, 151, 153, 154, 158-160, 164, 169, 174176, 178, 179

„ el Ghazallet, 302

„ el Owanat, 319

„ Ghennihma, 312, 315

„ Gunna el Bahari, 227

„ Hashem el Gud, 302

„ Jabail, 202

„ Kusu, 301

„ Maydob, 298

„ Somara, 302

„ Ta’aref, 312

„ Tarfaia, 302

„ Ter, 312

„ Um el Ghenneiem, 312

Jebsia tribe, 330

Jedabya, 306

Jedda, five-year-old camel, 35

Jemel, full-grown male camel, 35

Johnson, E. A. Pasha, 52-54, 212

Kafir, infidel

Kairowin hattia, 220, 222, 233, 304, 311

Kantar, 100 Egyptian pounds, 47

Karbala, battle of, 256

Kas, cymbals, 252

Katb el kitab, part of a marriage ceremony, 252

Kebabish tribe, 298

Kebabo, 299

Kerkadi, Sudanese tea, 70

Kerzazia dervishes, 20

Khalif of Islam, 106

Khalifa Zenata, 259

Khalil Salah Gaber, interpreter, 22, 34, 96, 101, 102, 124-126

Khamasin, fifty days of spring, 257

Khan, a native inn, in Assiut, 132

Khana tribe, 330

Kharafish, a form of sand erosion, 28, 87, 202, 308

Kharashef, a form of sand erosion, 28, 202, 308

Kharga, 23, 28-32, 90, 129, 132, 157, 202, 215, 225, 227, 243, 244, 246, 248, 258-260, 265, 283, 284, 288, 293, 297, 305, 308-319, 326

Khatim, lit. seal, diagram used in magic, 273, 274

Khatma, a religious ceremony, 254

Khobayza, a plant, 282

Kimri, palm doves, 57, 284, 285; experiment with, 90, 91, 321

Kites, 284

Kowora, 298, 302

Kufara, 18, 52, 60, 71, 77, 82, 83, 98, 109, 131, 147, 149, 199, 234, 293, 296, 298, 299, 301-306, 319

Kuffara, 296

Kurkur Oasis, 305

Kysis, town of, 314; temple of, 315

Lace wing flies, 287

Lagia, el, 303, 305, 321

Lahd, recess in a grave for the body to lie in, 255

“Lake of the mud tortoises” of Miani, 303

Lame camels, 88, 89, 92

Lane’s “Modern Egyptians,” 253-278

Leaking water tanks, 153, 155, 161-164, 182

Lefa’a, horned viper, 286

Left hand unclean among Moslems, 278

Legends, 53-58, 63, 75, 78, 221

“Letters” written by illiterate bedawin, 180, 235

Leylet el Wahada, night of solitude, 254

Leylet el Wahsha, night of desolation, 254

Libyan desert boundaries, 17

Ligatured monograms of the Tawarek, 335

Light phenomena, 307

Litham, mask worn by the Tibbus and Tawarek, 277

Lizards, 285, 288

Locusts, 283

Looms, 314

Lughad, 296

Luxor, 146, 305

Mabsat, pleased

Madania dervishes, 133

Made roads, 205

Maghagha, 304

Maghrib, west, evening prayer, 67

Magic See Superstitions and magicians

Magicians, 146, 154, 194, 212, 217, 271

Mahdi, of Khartum, 107; of the Senussia, 106-109; a veiled prophet, 108

Mahmal of Cairo, 259; of Kharga, 258-260

Mahmed ben Abd er Rahman Bu Zian, founder of the Ziania dervishes, 182

Mahr, dowry, 252

Maimun, the afrit, 274-279

“Making the peace,” 46, 194, 242

Maks Bahari, 313

Maks Gibli, 313

Malaria, 30, 261

Malif tribe, 330

Mamur, a native magistrate, 183-191, 193-196

Mandal, a magical performance, 272-279

Manfalut, 199, 202

Mange, 76, 79

Manners and customs, 34, 39, 46, 47, 50, 67, 152, 193, 206, 207, 232, 247, 251-254, 256, 259, 260, 265, 268, 269

Mansur, camel driver, 200

Mantids, 286, 287

“Map”-making by bedawin, 208

Marble, 202

Marhaka, two stones for crushing grain, 97

Marmarica, 334

Marriage ceremonies, 251-254

Marsa Matru, 335

Masara, 41, 145, 317

Mashishia dervishes, 133

Mastaba, platform, bench, or tomb, 53, 56

Mecca, 108

Medicine, native, 261, 262, 279, 282

Meheriq, 313

Melanism, human, 152

Menna, wife of the founder of the Senussia, 108

Merga, 300, 302, 303, 321

Merkaz, the office of a mamur

Mesopotamia, 214

Metaphors, Arabic, 201, 202

Meteors, 307

Miani, 303

Migration of birds, 36, 79, 101, 287, 288

Mill, for flour, 264, 265; for olives 265

Minia, 304

Mirage, 113, 179

“Mist,” as showing a distant valley, 95

M’khiat er Rih tribe, 221

Mohammed ben ’ali es Senussi, founder of the Senussia dervishes, 108

Mohammed el Mawhub, Sheykh of the zawia at Qasr Dakhl, 40, 60-64, 73, 74, 144, 145, 147, 149, 196, 229, 234, 240, 242, 243, 245

Mohammed et Tounsi, 335

Mohammed, Sheykh of Farafra zawia, 228

Mohammed, the Prophet, 57, 106

Mohammed V, of Turkey, 127

Mohanny, camel driver, 200

Morocco, 108

Mosquitoes, 283, 287

Moths, 283, 287

Mud tortoises, lake of, 303

Mudir, governor of a province Mukhlia, camel’s nosebag, 33

Mulid, feast on birthday of a saint, 259

Munkar, “the unknown,” a black angel, 255

Musa, camel driver, 25, 34, 92

Musbut, 297

Mushaluba, um Shaloba, 296

Mushia, 75, 317, 318

Music, effect of, on camels, 92, 270

Musical sands, 100, 220, 263

Musical stones, 98, 100

Mut, 41-48, 76, 82, 90, 91, 100, 139-159, 182-192, 194, 236-241, 244, 262, 284, 295, 305, 317

Nachtigal, Gustav, 297, 298

Nadura, temple of, 315

Naga, a full-grown female camel, 35

Nails, ceremony on first cutting a child’s, 250

Naja, cobra, 286

Nakir, “the repudiating,” a black angel, 255

Native information, collecting, 207-211, 220, 221, 295

Nazili Genub, 201

Negeb, a pass down a cliff

„ er Rumi, 216

„ Shushina, 205

„ to Bu Mungar, 232

„ to Dakhla, 36

Nesla, 227, 231, 287, 304

Nestorius, Bishop, 314

Nicknames, 128, 134

Nijem, lit. star; to know the nijem = knowledge of the desert, 170

Nile, River, 301, 302

Nimr Awad, 25, 134, 149, 150

Noah, 256

No’on lake, 303

Noon shelters, 111

Noser, hollow desert, 87

Oasis, meaning of, 310

“Oasis of the blacks,” 52

Officials, class of, in oases, 43-45

Oil, olive, 265, 318, 321

Olive mill, 265

“Olive oasis,” 91, 320, 321

Olive press, 265

’Omar Wahaby, mamur of Dakhla, 156

’Omda, village headman, for individuals see under name of village

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