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Table of Contents

Cover Page

Title Page

Introduction

Australia and New Zealand

THE KIMBERLEY, AUSTRALIA

TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA

THE WHITSUNDAYS, AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIA SAMPLER

NEW ZEALAND

NEW ZEALAND AND THE SUBANTARCTIC ISLANDS

CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY: CRAIG HOWSON

South Pacific and Asia

FRENCH POLYNESIA

FIJI

NEW CALEDONIA

NEW CALEDONIA AND VANUATU

BALI, INDONESIA

CAMBODIA AND VIETNAM

MYANMAR

JAPAN

CHINA

INDIA AND THE GANGES

RUSSIA

CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY: SARINA BRATTON

Europe

THE MEDITERRANEAN

PRAGUE TO PARIS

NORMANDY, FRANCE

BORDEAUX, FRANCE

THE SOUTH OF FRANCE

PORTUGAL AND SPAIN

CROATIA

AMSTERDAM TO BUDAPEST

THE BLACK SEA

THE BALTICS

NORWEGIAN FIORDS

CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY: STEVE REYNOLDS

Africa

EGYPT AND THE NILE

SOUTH AFRICA AND THE EAST AFRICAN ISLANDS

CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY: SIR RICHARD BRANSON

The Americas

ALASKA AND CANADA

MEXICAN RIVIERA

BRAZIL, URUGUAY AND ARGENTINA

THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

Cruising Experiences

ANTARCTICA

BAREBOAT CRUISING

SHARK-DIVING CRUISE

BARGE CRUISE

EUROPEAN CHRISTMAS MARKETS

THEMED CRUISE

THE THREE QUEENS WORLD CRUISE

Practical tips and information

About the Author/Acknowledgements

Copyright Page

INTRODUCTION

Hello Dear Traveller,

Welcome aboard, I truly hope this book, our journey around the world, is a source of inspiration to you. My goal is that you may pore over these locations, that your knees go weak, your mind wanders and your heart sings … sings to the tune of ‘book it, lets go!’. Surely one of our favourite lines.

It’s important to me that you know this book is beholden to no particular cruise company. I want you to revel in the journey, get excited about the destination and hopefully find something that may very well suit you. My love of cruising, as you’ll see in this book, ranges across all budgets, varies from bareboat sailing on a Hawkesbury Halvorsen, to hobnobbing on the QueenVictoria. I’ll take you on all sorts of adventures, cage diving with great white

sharks in Port Lincoln, gliding past the glaciers of Alaska, maybe sailing the small islands of Croatia is more your speed, or a quiet barge through Burgundy; hopefully something is here for you that makes you go ‘yes!’.

I’ve been cruising since I was a child, however the last 23 years on Getawayhave allowed me to turn that passion into a profession. I’ve met some truly amazing people along the way and because I’ve not been on every cruise on offer, I’ve reached out to a handful of my fellow cruise lovers, experts in their travel-aligned fields, whose opinions I trust and admire, to share with us their favourite cruises and recommendations. Our tastes vary right across the board and the globe for that matter. Themed cruises, garden lovers, island hoppers, we’ve had a ball putting all these adventures together for you. These are the trips that we truly adore and recommend.

I am so grateful to the many people who have lent me a hand as I’ve sought their help. The cruise companies themselves, all snowed under with their own work, have been wonderful to us; my colleagues at Getawayand my website Journeys To Come; and the countless travellers whose paths have crossed mine and who have offered their travel tips and tales as I madly took notes. We are all united by our love of cruising and wanting to share that joy.

Maybe you’ve joined me on my travels with Getawayover the years? It’s the longest running travel show in Australia, I can’t put into words my joy and gratitude to be a part of it, and it’s now earned me the title of Australia’s Most Travelled Woman. Honestly, when I was offered a ‘screen test’ for the show way back in 1996, I never could’ve imagined I’d still be employed all these years later.

Getawayhas allowed me to sample some of the greatest cruises in the world, to peek into hidden corners, the opportunity to chat to remarkable characters, taste foods, to see wildlife at its best, witness experiences I could never have even dreamed of … and now it’s about time I share my favourites with you.

I know that I can’t cover it all, there will be moments when you yell at this book ‘but what about …’ fill in the blanks. So, I’ve taken notes wherever possible, with people I’ve met on my travels, asking them to share journeys I wish I’d done but am yet to get to. Every

resource I’ve had available to me, I’ve endeavoured to share with you. One thing’s for sure, our Bucket Lists are endless. I hope you enjoy their perspectives.

Finally, throughout the book you’ll find something that is dear to me, that I hope you’ll appreciate, and that’s my Captains of Industry interviews. Getawayhas given me the entree, the excuse, to interview people in the cruising industry who are at the top of their game: role models, mentors, like Sir Richard Branson, travel legends like Wendy Wu, but also people whose names you may never have heard of but in some way are allowing you to enjoy remarkable holidays. Underneath it all, these industry leaders are as nutty about travel as you and I. I’ve gathered their tips and advice too, to share them with you.

I know we can never impress anyone with our travel tales, it’s ultimately a personal experience, but to those who care, there’s value in sharing your stories. Thank you for coming along on mine.

Now, off we go, let’s dive in … let’s go cruising!

Lots of love,

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

We’ve included a wide range of types and sizes of cruises in this book – from barges to bareboats; transatlantic cruises to river cruises. We’ve kept the focus on the destination and experiences, so that no matter what your individual cruise choices are, you’ll have an idea of the key ports you’ll visit, and the must-see daytrips and excursions that are on offer.

Key ports – These are the main ports or anchorages that are generally visited as part of the cruise. Port refers to where the cruise ship docks, which may or may not be a major city. For smaller

cruises or boats, this may just be where you anchor for the day, rather than a proper port city. The specific ports will differ with different cruise itineraries.

Daytrips – Daytrips can refer to both daytrips in a port city or nearby area, or a lengthier excursion or extension that can be done as part of the cruise.

Travel tips – These are our top recommendations and tips for the destination or experience.

The Facts – A quick summary of what this cruise is all about – who you should take, when to go and what to pack.

Which Cruise to Choose – We’ve included a short selection of cruise options for each entry. You’ll find a mixture of cruise companies, price ranges and cruise lengths, along with a quick description for each cruise to give you an idea of the types of journeys available. We’ve also provided general prices for each of the cruises in the list, using the price range key below.

Price range key

$ - 0-$2000

$$ - $2000-5000

$$$ - $5000-7000

$$$$ - $7000-10000

$$$$$ - $10000-15000

$$$$$$ - $15000+

*All pricing in AUD, based per person/twin share and was accurate at the time of printing.

AustraliaandNewZealand

THE KIMBERLEY TASMANIA

THE WHITSUNDAYS

AUSTRALIA SAMPLER

NEW ZEALAND

NEW ZEALAND AND THE SUB-ANTARCTIC ISLANDS

The Kimberley, Australia

Don’t you think it’s wonderful to be awestruck by your own backyard? That’s how I feel as my True North Cruise glides through the Buccaneer Archipelago in the Kimberley, Western Australia.

I’m dwarfed by soaring cliffs, millions of years old, in dazzling shades of rust; eagles flying high; clear green waters stuffed full of fat fish and lurking crocs. With tears in my eyes, I look at just how physically beautiful my home country is, not a soul around. Well, human soul, other than my travel buddies and the many animals around me.

There’s a slight tinge of guilt that I’ve never truly immersed myself in this part of Australia before. Just short, albeit wonderful trips up until this cruise, but I’m so glad I’m finally ticking this off my bucket list.

I’m actually also full of anxiety at the start of my cruise, basically because my children are joining me on an adventure that involves deadly creatures. I left home wondering ‘Am I the worst mum in the world for bringing my children to waters where I know crocs and sharks hang out?’ But I quickly realised, from their reaction upon arrival, that I’m possibly the exact opposite. Not only are they having a ball with daily activities, they’ve been taken under the wings of the kind, mainly Aussie crew. And there are other cheeky-devil children their age on board. Clearly, we are surrounded by like-minded souls … adventure seekers. Okay, add to that, adventure seekers who love a touch of comfort and a decent dollop of natural beauty.

My fears are allayed as I meet more and more travellers on board who agree they wish they’d visited the Kimberley earlier. My fellow passengers have all travelled the world, yet always heard this was the ultimate cruise to do when in Australia. Why? It’s hard to explain. It’s just amazing – physically, spiritually, naturally, it has it all. That’s what has drawn me here: this simple statement from others that cruising the Kimberley is ‘Just the best. Just go!’

To my surprise, there are different cruises to choose from, as the seasons alter the water flow. I’ve signed up for a Kimberley Waterfall Cruise.

Main Waterways

Indian Ocean, Timor Sea

Key Ports

Dugong Bay: After an overnight trip up from Broome, we woke to a soft sunrise and the beautiful water of Dugong Bay. The morning is the time to head out on the tenders and take in the sights before the heat of the day becomes too much – that’s when we’d do most of our sailing, around lunchtime, or overnight. I can’t say I saw a single

dugong, but this is where the soaring rock cliffs start to rise up and surround you. Whilst my son Charlie and I went in search of waterfalls, my older son Andrew would sign himself up to head out on the tenders for his fill of fishing. There’s always an expert guide with you. And whether you’re fishing or looking at birdlife, the learning is constant.

As we steamed into the Buccaneer Archipelago we found the Horizontal Falls, which are a bit of an optical illusion at first glance. You glide towards these two soaring cliffs, where you can see the calm waters moving through to the other side. But as you approach, you quickly realise there’s an insane tidal movement being created here, with a waterfall effect, as water gushes through this narrow cliff passage, creating whirlpools and turning tides. You feel drawn into the raging passage but are able to sit calmly on the safe side and gaze in awe at the natural wonder.

Montgomery Reef, Raft Point and Sale River: When the founding director and co-owner of The True North, Craig Howson, promised me a sight to see first thing in the morning, I thought he needed his head checked; I didn’t ‘see’ it. Which he may very well. But what was initially a flat stretch of oceanic water soon gave way to one of the most bizarre 10-metre-plus tidal movements in the world. From out of nowhere, the water drops away and out of the ocean rises up a gushing reef system, with what they call a ‘rooster tail’ effect of cascading, loud waterfalls. We took our tiny Zodiac boat straight up the centre, which stretches around 80 kilometres. The children and I pointed madly at turtles creeping, birds flying in, manta rays and flying fish going ‘woohoo’ through the crisp morning air. But you’d better be quick: all will be gone when the tide ebbs and the visual buffet disappears out of sight by the afternoon. One of those places where only a small boat will do.

Prince Regent River and Kings Cascade: This is the eroded remains of the longest, single, straight lineament in Australia, which, to you and me, means ripping good rock formations zooming up out of the clear waters for about 240 kilometres. All along the sparkling

water’s edge you’ll see a dark tide-line on the rocks and this is your signal to not swim in rockpools below the point the tide reaches, as you’ll be sharing the waters with some super cool crocs. But never fear, this is where the climb to the daily waterfalls comes in handy. At last check, crocs can’t climb – jump yes, but climbing I don’t think is their forte. They certainly can’t be bothered in these abundant waters. Kings Cascade is a magnificent waterfall that is best appreciated with a little barbecue by the cool water, amongst the paperbark trees. I just need to say, I did not spot one single ounce of rubbish throughout my entire trip. Ten points for that.

Prince Regent River and Melaleuca Falls: The sunrise and sunset are breathtaking, so it’s worth setting your alarm early if you’d like to get the best shots from the deck. Because of the slightly smaller size of this ship, we are able to access rivers, waterfalls and reefs much more easily than larger ships. It’s relaxed, it feels like an adventure, yet it also feels five-star.

Hunter River and Careening Bay: Apparently, the Hunter River is home to the largest concentration of saltwater crocs in the Kimberley. All I know is that each morning, I woke to spot them at the back of the boat and, from this safe distance, I could admire them and slightly fall in love with them. Who knew! Today, a few tenders set off early for some mudcrabbing madness (we’ll have dinner on the deck tonight with their catch). Charlie and I go birdwatching with the naturalists then, after lunch, we disembark to see an amazing boab tree engraved by the remarkable explorer Phillip Parker King, back in 1820. We owe a huge debt of gratitude to this early maritime surveyor. More people should sing the praises of this young man, born on Norfolk Island in 1791 into good sailing stock. He was only four when Matthew Flinders visited the island in the Reliance, and Matthew asked the tiny tot what he intended to do with his life. He remarked, ‘I shall be a sir like my papa and find islands of my own!’ Sure enough, at just 26 he was assigned to survey parts of the Australian coast and, aboard HMC Mermaid, went on to chart most of the north-west coast of Australia. He surveyed Macquarie Harbour in

Van Diemen’s Land (now Tasmania) and the treacherous waters of the Great Barrier Reef, filling in the gaps left by his more famous predecessors. The guy was a dead-set legend, handsome as all get out, and it’s time we made a movie about him. Love him to bits!

Vansittart Bay and Eagle Falls Picnic: Once again, Charlie and I set off to see the rock art, including the world-famous Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) figures. These were originally named after the pastoralist who found and recorded the rock art in 1891. It’s debated who actually painted these human figures, seemingly dancing whilst carrying their bags and tassels. But the colours of the paint are so old they are as one with the rock. There’s no fading, no need for touchups. It’s embedded into the stone. How fantastic for my little artloving son to see this; to stand where, quite possibly, our Indigenous people did around 30,000 years ago, as we try to decipher these artistic mysteries. It’s pretty special.

Glycosmis Falls and King George River: Glycosmis Falls is billed as a double waterfall. You stand or sit on the bow, waterproof camera in hand, as you ever so slowly pull up. Then the water crashes onto you as you are surrounded by these towering cliffs on either side. You’re just a tiny dot, dancing in the water as Mother Nature pounds on down.

We did have a party night on board in the evening. We were all offered crazy clothes to put on. This added to the fun, relaxed atmosphere of this cruise, where all ages got along so well. Each day we devour plate after plate of seafood – yes, freshly caught – salads and vegies. I keep stealing into the galley kitchen to quiz the fabulous chef on her recipes. Oh, and in case you’re wondering what Glycosmis refers to, it’s a shrub with creamy yellow flowers of the citrus family native to the northern Kimberley. The wildflowers here are beautiful.

King George River and Koolama Bay: Possibly my favourite day as I leave the children behind and hike straight up a cliff, to the very top of the King George Falls, Western Australia’s highest waterfall.

After a steep climb, we are rewarded at the flat top with a gentle swim in the rockpools, in water warmed by the sun. But, like a lot of the Kimberley, there’s always this slight edge of danger. This clifftop pool is idyllic and, as we chat away and paddle, we peer over the side to see where the river plunges 80 metres over the top to create the falls. It gives you a quick pulse of adrenalin. Such a rush.

Daytrips

Wandjina art: Whilst Andrew was happy to, each night, sign himself up for the following day’s fishing expeditions, Charlie chose a different path. After our evening chats in the dining room with the naturalists, learning about what was on offer the next day, Charlie would sign us up to DO Aboriginal Rock Art. I had to explain to him we weren’t actually painting, but going on hikes inland to see rock art that was possibly thousands of years old. The Kimberley is full of rock-art galleries. You just need an expert to show you were to find them. They normally involve a short hike from the water’s edge. The hikes aren’t always easy, but I’m proud to say that if my seven-yearold could do it, maybe you could too. The days are normally hot, so water bottles and long-sleeved clothes are needed. But the effort put in is repaid a hundredfold when you first set eyes upon the Wandjina art. I’ve seen Aboriginal rock art before, but these look otherworldly, with large upper bodies and haloed heads that are almost like alien creatures. My young son understood the colours came from the earth around him. He was told the mythical stories about what we believe the images stood for. I respect that I can no longer show you those images publicly but we valued making the effort to not only travel to the Kimberley to see this art, but to venture out by water, to hike to these caves, to view something we may never see again.

Kings Cascade: My first chopper flight on a cruise – the effect had me in tears of joy. Now that I have choppered high amongst the sights that often only the eagles will see, I’m ruined forever. You can take all sorts of ‘heli-trips’: you can camp, picnic, fish, watch the sunrise and sunset. Hello, this is where you could possibly propose!

But hovering above the paperbark trees, everyone lost in thought with only the pilot offering stories – this for me was an emotional experience.

King George River: I just have to mention my admiration for the local saltwater crocs. It’s just so cool to see them in their own wild habitat and even better that I’m safe and sound in my boat whilst these floating predators allow me to gaze at them. Taking in their hazel green eyes with their three eyelids: one on top and one on the bottom, and one a kind of windscreen wiper (my analysis, not Nat, my naturalist’s!). The saltwater crocs here are thriving. You can’t really relocate them even if you wanted to, as their GPS is amazing. They always return to their home. I’m so glad I’m on this cruise with its naturalists answering my 40,000 questions. Sorry, Chris and Nat. A little daytrip that Charlie and I did with some of the staff was following the line of a waterfall, up and over massive red boulders inland. My little darling and I were greeted by this deep, cool swimming hole. As our trip neared its end, we knew we were going to miss these daily waterfall swims so much.

Koolama Bay: We went here to gather for our final-night drinks. Barefoot, we took tenders over to the white sands of Tranquil Beach, passing the odd croc sliding into the water as we went. My boys were just having the time of their life and I certainly felt so lucky to be experiencing this drop-dead gorgeous part of Australia. Yes, I got teary again on the beach as one of the staff, Jo-Lee, pulled out her guitar and sang softly to us whilst a sunset like you’ve never seen appeared before us. The Kimberley ultimately just makes you feel very proud of Australia and humbled by Mother Nature. Now, I finally understand why everyone who has visited here returns with only one piece of advice … Just go!

> Broome is the gateway to the Kimberley, so you may want to take a short break to Cape Leveque, Koojilaman and Cygnet Bay that are only two-hour drives, on mainly dirt roads, from Broome. Also worth visiting are Beagle Bay and the ‘Mother of Pearl’ Church.

> Deeper into the Kimberley, the Gibb River Road provides access to loads of gorges, swimming holes and walks.

> South of Broome, Eco Beach is a short two-hour drive with a number of station stays and beach sites along the 600 kilometres to Port Hedland and the Pilbara.

> You could easily add two weeks onto your trip to explore the area with these extensions.

THE FACTS

YOU’LL LOVE THIS CRUISE IF …

You have a sense of adventure. You don’t mind a cruise that says ‘Don’t worry about shoes’. You love your seafood or you’re serious about fishing.

WHEN TO GO

There are certain highlights in each month of the year. March, April and May are brilliant for waterfalls. You may instead want a ‘Barra Bonanza’ experience, where the barramundi are all but jumping onto the hook in August–September; mid-year is when the whales also come out to play.

WHO TO TAKE

All ages were represented on my cruise, although I wouldn’t recommend this for small children. Charlie was six at the time and I would not have taken him any younger. Pete the Fisherman was in his 70s.

WHAT TO PACK

• The aim is to be comfortable on board, covered when outside in the sun and, at dinner, throw on a clean shirt or pretty dress. A cardigan or wrap is always worth it for the cooler nights.

• Binoculars. Wish I’d remembered mine.

• Shoes like Keens or Tevas. Thongs aren’t so good for crossing a beach, then hiking.

• A backpack for your hikes so your hands can be free.

• Disposable cameras for children, including the underwater ones. Brilliant at the waterfalls.

WHICH CRUISE TO CHOOSE

AURORA EXPEDITIONS ($$$$, 10 NIGHTS, 21 CABINS)

Kimberley Coast, aboard CoralExpeditionsI.

Cruise the Kimberley’s maze of nearly 3000 islands along the coast between Broome and Darwin. Key highlights of Aurora Expeditions include the Lacepede Islands, the spectacular Montgomery Reef, Bigge Island and the majestic 80-metre King George Falls.

CORAL EXPEDITIONS ($$$$, 10 NIGHTS, 21 CABINS)

Classic Kimberley Expedition, aboard CoralAdventurer, Coral Discovereror CoralExpeditionsI.

Coral Expeditions are all inclusive, apart from the helicopter experience at Mitchell Falls. All ships carry a unique Xplorer tender, mounted on a hydraulic platform at the stern of the vessel.

APT ($$$$$, 10 NIGHTS, 57 CABINS)

Kimberley Coast Cruise, aboard IslandSky.

Highlights include a high-powered boat ride between Horizontal Falls, a discovery of the Wandjina rock art on Bigge Island and a cruise to the base of King George Falls. Includes 10 nights aboard a small ship and daily excursions on Zodiac vessels.

PONANT ($$$$$, 10 NIGHTS, 92 CABINS)

Iconic Kimberley, aboard LeLaperouse. LeLaperousewill be positioned in the Kimberley as part of its inaugural season of voyages in 2019. Adventure by day exploring all the famous Kimberley highlights, then enjoy champagne and fine cuisine by night.

TRUE NORTH ADVENTURE CRUISES ($$$$$$, 13 NIGHTS, 18 CABINS)

Kimberley Ultimate, aboard TrueNorth.

The stylish TrueNorthexplores the waters of the Kimberley region. The ship’s activity-based itineraries include hiking, fishing, mudcrabbing, scenic tours, picnics, natural history appreciation, seeing the ancient rock art of the Australian Aboriginal people and exhilarating helicopter rides. Guest numbers are limited to just 36 and an Australian crew of 22 chaperones every experience.

DON’T LET ME FORGET TO TELL YOU

I loved every day of my waterfall cruise, but I will admit that the lure of seeing all the humpback whales frolic in these waters has me keen to return. They say it’s the world’s largest pod of these whales and the great news is that their numbers are increasing. We are talking up to 40,000, so it’s truly a show. They begin to arrive in the Kimberley waters, up from the cooler Antarctic ones, around mid-to late July through to September and October for their breeding season. It’s one of the longest whale-watching seasons in the world, so a real boost for local operators. I know you can also do a lovely trip out to Rowley Shoals, some 300 kilometres off Broome, as it is the ‘doldrums’ – this is what they call the period when the winds are at their calmest. You’ve got a lot to choose from.

‘God made the world in six days. On the seventh day, he wanted somewhere to live, so he made the Kimberley … and that’s God’s place.’

If you like the sound of this cruise, you may also like …

Alaska and Canada or New Zealand and the Subantarctic islands for more remote wilderness and marine wildlife.

Tasmania, Australia

Tasmania is experiencing a boom in every which way. Its economy, population growth and job rates are up; there are bonanzas in housing, tourism and business investment –even the gin is fabulous. Whilst economists will put this glory down to more people moving to the Apple Isle because the housing is more affordable, this travel reporter firmly places the blame of the boom on MONA. The Museum of Old and New Art opened its dynamic doors in 2011 and has garnered international attention and made everyone from taxi drivers to chefs lift their game.

In the same way that the industrial city of Bilbao in northern Spain was radically changed by the opening of the stupendous Guggenheim Museum, sending the city’s fortunes and standing through the roof in what is now coined ‘the Bilbao effect’, I believe the same has occurred for Tassie and we all owe a little debt of gratitude to the renegade owner, David Walsh. When he opened MONA, whether you’re a fan or not, its shocking brilliance created awestruck critics and an art-inspired renaissance followed.

Today, that MONA traffic has been a complete game changer and whilst I believe Tasmania is brilliant for drive tours and weekend quickies (I hope that doesn’t sound rude!), the cruise market is also having a ball.

This is the only cruise I’ve ever sent my parents on, a Chrissy gift that I knew they’d love. To be fair, it was pre-MONA, but they adored every moment, still have friends that they made from that trip and loved seeing the island from the water’s perspective.

For this book, I’ve chosen to focus on a ‘bread and butter’ cruise of Tassie that I know is one of the most successful for Princess Cruises, who say ‘the joy of cruising Tasmania can be summed up in three words: people, produce and ports’ and whose itinerary focuses on just those three things. We will also recommend a number of other cruises, but I just wanted to illustrate how accessible this voyage is and beloved by such a variation of travellers. Tassie has almost 5000 kilometres of coastline and one of the most biologically diverse marine environments in the world; if you don’t fall in love with it, you’re just not trying.

Main Waterways

Bass Strait, Southern Ocean, Indian Ocean, Pacific Ocean

Key Ports

Hobart: Many cruise ships will overnight here, leaving guests more time to go exploring this easy-to-access city. I’ve generally walked everywhere around Hobart but the taxis make it super easy to go the

extra mile, literally. The terminal is accessed via a scenic cruise down the Derwent River and on arrival the views of Mount Wellington are quite beautiful, as are the city-scapes and architecture.

Burnie: Located at the very top of Tasmania, this tiny town, which is actually the fourth largest city here, gives guests a giant hug of a welcome at each visit. I can’t guarantee it, but cruise ships are often welcomed here by the mayor and you’d be quite normal for feeling like a rock star. They do tourism to a T, here in Burnie.

Wineglass Bay: I’ve done this pocket of land every which way, on a bike, car, staying in a tent, puttering along in a tinny collecting giant crayfish and, yes, on a cruise ship. But I always feel the need to throw in the morbid way it achieved its name (well, morbid to me), that it once housed a whaling station and the water was so crimson with blood, it resembled a red wineglass. For about 20 years in the early 1800s, whalers hunted southern right, humpback and sperm whales from here. Keep in mind, this was during the era when whalebone was used for corsets, umbrellas, kitchen utensils, knitting needles and hoops for skirts. The whale blubber was used for lamps, candles, machinery lubrication and as the base of perfume, soap and cooking fat. High in demand worldwide were our whales. Today, the only demand is from us wide-eyed travellers who ogle over nature’s beauty and the abundance of such glistening, crystal-clear water.

Melbourne: The Victorian state capital is generally where the cruises come in and out of and is brilliant for those keen to do daytrips.

Daytrips

Hobart: You might as well go with the flow, and experience what is attracting tourists from all over the world – MONA. While the exhibitions change regularly, there are some permanent displays –like the celebrated (or notorious?) CloacaProfessionalaka ‘The Poo Machine’ by Wim Delvoye. MONA started the mid-winter MOFO

festival, famous, among other things, for its nude solstice swim. Each to their own.

Port Arthur: To this day, Port Arthur is one of the best guided walks I’ve ever experienced; I genuinely felt the presence of spirits, all enhanced by the dialogue of the guide who was so passionate and colourful with her speech. Historic Trust guides have a great reputation here as they take you around what was once the 19thcentury penal colony and sadly the site of one of our greatest tragedies, the Port Arthur massacre on 28–29 April 1996.

Melbourne: Maybe you’ll time your trip for the Melbourne Cup in November, take a nature-based trip to the You Yangs regional park to spot kangaroos and koalas, or indulge in the famous food and wine scene. An AFL game is always a local highlight, especially if at the MCG (Melbourne Cricket Ground). Oh and culture vultures should note this is the home of the Australian Ballet, wonderful galleries and museums. The regional towns peeling off from Melbourne are amongst the world’s best and easy to access.

Traveltips

> Try to plan a trip that coincides with Friday evening in Hobart; the waterfront is buzzing year-round and then the weekend is filled with market festivities.

> Take a day pack to carry all the layers you’ll need to deal with the four seasons in one day.

> Make sure you milk the free walking tours at each port.

> Challenge yourself to sample only local food and wine. Truly, the air is so pure here everything tastes better.

> The Tarkine Wilderness is my favourite park in Tasmania, but wherever you go there are sublime parks to explore.

> The best fly fishing is arguably in the Great Lakes area and is an easy daytrip.

> PILGRIM in Hobart is famous for a morning coffee.

> Bruny Island is where you should shuck some oysters.

> You may want a seasickness tablet for the main leg of the cruise, travelling over Bass Strait.

THE FACTS

YOU’LL LOVE THIS CRUISE IF …

You do multi-generational travel. As I mentioned, my parents loved doing this together. But I’d also recommend this trip for first-time travellers keen to see if cruising is their thing.

WHEN TO GO

If you like your whales, I’d suggest September to November as the whales and their calves begin to migrate south. Spring has an abundance of fur seals and bottle-nosed dolphins. Summer is great for fishermen (and women) and spotting the white-bellied sea eagles. I’d have to say, it’s really a year-round location as the restaurants, the produce and people are always in fine form.

WHO TO TAKE

The appeal is pretty broad, but I’m not sure if young children would allow you to take the time to enjoy those qualities, so leave the ankle-biters at home for this cruise.

WHAT TO PACK

• Sunglasses, even if just for Wineglass Bay where the sand is blindingly bright.

• Layers. It tends to be a wee bit cooler here, so a good, wetweather jacket.

• Comfy hiking boots.

WHICH CRUISE TO CHOOSE

ROYAL CARIBBEAN ($7, 5 NIGHTS, 1557 CABINS)

Tasmania Cruise, aboard VoyageroftheSeas. Embark in Sydney, then spend a day at sea where you can immerse yourself in all the onboard activities, from high-adrenalin rock climbing and a surfing simulator, to a sumptuous massage and time by the pool. After a day well spent in Hobart, sail to Melbourne. Dine and shop your way through Melbourne’s edgy suburbs before retiring to the pool for the journey back to Sydney.

PRINCESS CRUISES ($, 8 NIGHTS, 3560 CABINS)

Tasmania, aboard various ships.

A variety of cruising options are available for Tasmania across the local fleet, leaving from the three major eastern seaboard ports. Each cruise features a call at Port Arthur and an overnight stay in Hobart. Make sure you visit the guest lecture series onboard Princess Cruises, to ensure you are aware of the history and charm of Tasmania before stepping ashore.

AZAMARA ($$ NIGHTS, 358 CABINS)

Tasmania and New Zealand Voyage, aboard AzamaraQuest.

First, enjoy a taste of Tasmania, where you’ll walk the grounds of notorious Port Arthur and stroll the iconic Salamanca Markets in Hobart. The next stop is New Zealand’s spectacular Milford Sound, before calls at Wellington and Napier. Wine aficionados won’t want to miss guided tours of the Marlborough region and Hawke’s Bay. Admire Tauranga’s lush kiwi, citrus and avocado farms and have your breath taken away by the Bay of Islands.

VIKING ($$$$, 14 NIGHTS, 465 CABINS)

Australia and New Zealand, aboard VikingOrion.

Includes nine ports of call. Sip on famous regional wines, explore UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the Blue Mountains. Explore the fabled island of Tasmania with stops at both Hobart and Port Arthur. In New Zealand, discover the historic treasures of Dunedin, and capture panoramic views from Mount Victoria.

DON’T LET ME FORGET TO TELL YOU

The shopping is great across the board, but try to buy some local Huon pine – the scent is beautiful – and I’ve found this is a great location for buying antiques and collectibles. Anything can be shipped, my love!

Tasmania is achieving world attention for its award-winning gin, whisky and cool-climate wines, particularly the pinot noir. You can easily do a tasting and take a bottle or two back onboard. The Tasmanian Wine Centre in Hobart is a great central point to sample wines from across the island and they offer a

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