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Chile and Easter Island 11th Edition

Regis St Louis

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Your planning tool kit

Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip.

ON THE ROAD

Your complete guide

Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips.

UNDERSTAND

Get more from your trip

Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see.

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Your at-a-glance reference

Vital practical information for a smooth trip.

8 Information & Transport

All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:

Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference.

These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

Must-visit recommendation

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

% Telephone number

h Opening hours

p Parking

n Nonsmoking

a Air-conditioning

i Internet access

W

Wi-fi access

s Swimming pool

v Vegetarian selection

E English-language menu

c Family-friendly

# Pet-friendly

g Bus

For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

f Ferry

j Tram

d Train

apt apartments

d double rooms

dm dorm beds

q quad rooms

r rooms

s single rooms

ste suites

tr triple rooms

tw twin rooms

Chile & Easter Island

Nui)

Tierra del Fuego

Carolyn McCarthy, Cathy Brown, Mark Johanson, Kevin Raub, Regis St Louis

ON THE ROAD

ON THE ROAD

NORTE CHICO

La Serena .

Elqui Valley 201

Reserva Nacional

Pingüino de Humboldt 208

Huasco Valley 209

Parque Nacional

Llanos de Challe 211

Copiapó

Parque Nacional

211

Nevado Tres Cruces 214

Ojos del Salado

214

Caldera 215

Bahía Inglesa 217

Parque Nacional

Pan de Azúcar 218

Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales

Río Cochamó Valley

Araucanía

Parque Nacional

Conguillío 226

Curacautín 228

Reserva Nacional

Melipeuco

Parque Nacional Villarrica 240

Río Liucura & Río Caburgua Valleys

Parque Nacional

Huerquehue

Los Ríos

Valdivia

The Lakes District

Parque Nacional Puyehue

GEYSERS DEL TATIO P148
MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES P53
GLACIER GREY P363

Welcome to Chile

Chile is nature on a colossal scale, but travel here is surprisingly easy if you don’t rush it.

Meet a Land of Extremes

Preposterously thin and unreasonably long, Chile stretches from the belly of South America to its foot, reaching from the driest desert on earth to vast southern glacial fields. Diverse landscapes unfurl over a 4300km stretch: parched dunes, fertile valleys, volcanoes, ancient forests, massive glaciers and fjords. There’s wonder in every detail and nature on a symphonic scale. For the traveler, it’s mind-boggling to find this great wilderness so intact. The human quest for development could imperil these treasures sooner than we think. Yet for now, Chile guards some of the most pristine parts of our planet, and they shouldn’t be missed.

Wine Culture

Before wine became an export commodity, humble casks had their place on every Chilean table and grandparents tended backyard orchards. Chile has become a worldwide producer catering to ever more sophisticated palates. Rich reds, crisp whites and floral rosés – there’s a varietal that speaks to every occasion. But at home, it’s different. Chileans embrace the concept of la buena mesa. This is not about fancy. Beyond a good meal, it’s great company, the leisure of overlapping conversations with uncorkings, and the gaze that’s met at the clink of two glasses. ¡Salud!

Slow Adventure

In Chile, adventure is what happens on the way to having an adventure. Pedal the chunky gravel of the Carretera Austral and end up sharing a ferry with SUVs and oxcarts, or take a wrong turn and find heaven in an anonymous orchard. Serendipity takes over. Plans may be made, but try being just as open to experience. Locals never rush, so maybe you shouldn’t either. ‘Those who hurry waste their time,’ is the Patagonian saying that would serve well as a traveler’s mantra.

La Buena Onda

In Chile, close borders foster backyard intimacy – bookended by the Andes and the Pacific, the country averages just 175km wide. No wonder you start greeting the same faces. Pause and it starts to feel like home. You’ve landed at the end of the continent, and one thing that stands out at this final frontier is hospitality. Buena onda (good vibes) means putting forth a welcoming attitude. Patagonians share round upon round of maté tea. The ritual of relating and relaxing is so integral to the fabric of local life, it’s hardly noticed. But they do say one thing: stay and let your guard down.

Why I Love Chile

I’ve worked in Chile as a hiking guide, documented pioneer life in Patagonia and return to spend part of each year in the south. For me, Chile has always meant nature as it should be, in so many places a tangled and vast wilderness unmarred by the human hand. You could spend a lifetime discovering its wonderful, wild places. Precious few of these places remain on the planet, yet they are fundamental to our well-being and survival. For more about our writers, see p480

Chile & Easter Island

Easter Island (Rapa Nui)

North Coast

Surfing in Iquique (p167) and Arica (p176)

Rano Raraku

Easter Island's quarr y of giant heads (p413)

Elqui Valley

Poetr y, pisco and pretty villages (p201)

Valparaíso

Steep graffiti-clad hills to explore (p89)

Santiago

Museums, fine dining and nightlife (p44)

Arch

ipiélago

Isla Robinson

Llullaillaco Volcán

El Tatio Geysers

El Tatio Geysers

The world’s highest geyser field (p160)

Valle de la Luna

Magnificent desert landscapes (p159)

Capricorn

Guan a c o s and cond o rs (p 330 )

M onumento N a tural L os Pingüinos P a r qu e N ac ion a l P a t a g oni a M a gellanic penguins (p341 )

Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos Isla Magdalena C d a ed C l l i d r o r e r e l l i dro a

CONCEPCIÓN Los Angeles Chillán

Blanca Bahía V ALDIVIA

Rivadavia Comodo r o NEUQUÉN

Puyehue Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta

Cochamó

Puerto V aras Quellón Ancud PUE R TO MONTT Cast r o Chaitén V illarrica Frutillar Osorno TEMUCO Pucón

OCEAN ATLANTIC El Calafate ARENAS Natales Puerto

s o l s e d n A

Parque Nacional Patagonia

ARGENTINA

P ue r to Williams

Reach the continen t ’s southernmost outpost (p385)

Tierra del Fuego Isla Grande de de Chiloé Isla Grande Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn) (Islas Malvinas) Falkland Islands

Puerto W illiams

Tierra del Fuego Parque Nacional

Torres del Paine Parque Nacional

Colchagua V all e y

Sun-soa k ed vin e yards and wine tasting (p112)

T he L a k es Distri c t

V olcanoes, la k es and rolling farmland (p249)

H andcra f ted remnants of the islan d ’ s churches (p277)

T he C arr e tera Austral C hiloé

C hil e ’ s most epic road trip (p301)

T orres del P aine

W orld-famous granite spires (p358)

ELE V A TION

Chile’s Top 20

Parque Nacional

Torres del Paine

1Some rites of passage never lose their appeal, so strap on that heavy pack and hike through howling steppe and winding forests to behold these holiest-of-holy granite mountain spires. Las Torres may be the main attraction of its namesake park (p 358), but this vast wilderness has much more to offer. Ice-trek the sculpted surface of Glacier Grey, explore the quiet backside of the circuit, kayak the calm Río Serrano or ascend Paso John Gardner for gaping views of the southern ice field.

Chasing Big-City Culture

2

Santiago (p 44) is the center of the nation’s cultural and intellectual universe. Dig the poetry of Pablo Neruda’s home, La Chascona, a tribute to the surrealist’s affection for the wild-haired lover who would become his third wife. Mainstream museums such as the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo are worth popping into, before you widen your optics to discover the hard-charging underground arts scenes in Barrios Brasil, Lastarria and Bellas Artes. Below: Street art in Bellas Artes

LUCAS

Moai of Easter Island

3

The strikingly enigmatic moai (large anthropomorphic statues) are the most pervasive image of Easter Island (Rapa Nui). Dotted all around the island (p 401), these massive carved figures stand on stone platforms, just like colossal puppets on a supernatural stage. They emanate mystical vibes and it is thought that they represent clan ancestors. The biggest question remains: how were these giant statues moved from where they were carved to their platforms? It’s a neverending debate among specialists.

North-Coast Surfing

4

Hit the potent tubes in northern Chile’s duo of surf capitals, Iquique and Arica (p176). Surfers come in droves year-round for the consistent swell and a string of perfect gnarly reef breaks that break close to the desert shore. We’re talking huge, hollow and nearly all left waves of board-breaking variety, especially in July and August when hard-core surfers storm the coast. But do bring booties and wetsuits – the shallow reefs are full of urchins and the water is cold, courtesy of the Humboldt Current. Below right: Surfing, Arica (p179)

Churches of Chiloé

5

No matter how many European cathedrals, Buddhist monasteries or Islamic mosques you have seen, Chiloe’s 16 wooden Unesco World Heritage–listed churches (p288) will be unlike any previously encountered. Each is an architectural marvel marrying European and indigenous design, and boasting unorthodox colors and construction. Built by Jesuit missionaries working to convert pagans to Catholicism, these 17th- and 18th-century cathedrals’ survival mirrors the Chilote people’s own uncanny resilience.

Wine Tasting

6

Big round cabernets and Carmeneres are the signature varietals of the Colchagua Valley (p112), a scorched parcel of earth that has become Chile’s premier wine-tasting region. Oenophiles and gastronomes will be entranced by the epicurean delights of the valley’s tony wineries, bistros and posh lodgings. For floral whites and mass-production reds, head just outside Santiago to visit the wineries of the Casablanca and Maipo Valleys, before traveling further south for a few heady but unpretentious reds in the Maule Valley.

Swooning over Valle de la Luna

7

See the desert don its surrealist cloak as you stand atop a giant sand dune, with the sun slipping below the horizon and multicolored hues bathing the sands, all with a backdrop of distant volcanoes and the rippling Cordillera de la Sal. In Valle de la Luna (p159), the moment the color show kicks in – intense purples, golds, pinks and yellows stretch as far as your eye can see – you’ll forget the crowds around you, all squeezing in to catch sundown in the valley.

La Araucanía’s NationalPark Trifecta

8

Sur Chico (p220) boasts seven national parks, none more otherworldly than Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas and Parque Nacional Conguillío, whose charred desertscapes were born from volcanic eruptions, those of the volcanoes Lonquimay and Llaima among them. In ski season it’s all powder bowls and blue skies. Then there’s Parque Nacional Tolhuaca, flush with araucarias and intensely hued lagoons. This stunning trifecta – easily accessed via a base along the road to Lonquimay – is a microcosm of all that’s beautiful about Sur Chico. Below: Parque Nacional Conguillío (p226)

Elqui Valley

9

Spend a few languid days in the lush Elqui Valley (p201) and you’ll start to wax lyrical, or even channel the late Nobel Prize–winning poet Gabriela Mistral who grew up in these parts. Infused by poetry, pisco, pretty villages and star-sprinkled night skies, this is a wholesome land of spiritual retreats, ecofriendly inns, hilltop observatories and artisanal distilleries of the potent little grape. Sample food cooked solely by sun rays, get your aura cleaned, feast on herb-infused Andean fusion fare and ride the valley’s mystic wave.

Above left: Vi cuña (p201)

Skiing the Andes

10

The Chilean Andes are home to some of the best southern hemisphere skiing found on this powder-dusted planet. For steep slopes, expansive vistas, hot-tub parties and plenty of après-ski revelry, head to top resorts (p 87 ) such as the all-in-one Portillo, budget-friendly El Colorado and the ritzy La Parva. Valle Nevado has expanded terrain with more than 7000 skiable acres. At Termas de Chillán you can take an after-ski dip in a hot-springs pool.

Top right: La Parva ski resort (p 87 )

Road-Tripping the Carretera Austral

11

Find out what adventures await on this 1240km romp through Andean backcountry dotted with parks and pioneer homesteads. The Carretera Austral (p 301) is every wanderer’s dream. It was created in the 1980s under the Pinochet regime, in an attempt to link the country’s most isolated residents to the rest of Chile. Now, with nearly half the road paved and a ferry connection to Puerto Natales, it’s more accessible than ever. If you have the time, offshoot roads to glaciers, seaside villages and mountain hamlets are worthy detours.

Santiago Dining & Nightlife

12

Santiago’s avantgarde restaurants (p 68) are taking South American fusion to new levels by combining oldschool sensibilities with new-school flavors. For culinary forays, explore the pop-deco bistros of Bellavista, the sidewalk charmers in Lastarria and the high-falutin’ eateries of Las Condes. Come nighttime, you’ll find raucous beer halls, decibel-piercing discotecas, candlelit poetry houses and just about anything else your inner Bacchus desires along the alleyways of party districts like Bellavista, Bellas Artes and Lastarria.

Parque Nacional Patagonia

13

Dubbed the Serengeti of the Southern Cone, this new park (p 330) is the best place to spot amazing Patagonian wildlife such as guanacos, condors and flamingos. Once a downand-out cattle and sheep ranch, its meticulous restoration has made it a model park worthy of worldwide recognition. Put aside a few days to take the trails to turquoise lagoons, undulating steppe and ridgetops, or just watch wildlife along the main road that climbs to the border of Argentina near Ruta 40.

El Tatio Geysers

14

Dress warmly and catch daybreak on a frigid walk through the gurgling geysers, gnarly craters and gassy fumaroles of El Tatio (p160), the world’s highest geyser field ringed by pointy volcanoes and mighty mountains at 4300m above sea level. Hear this giant steam bath hiss, groan, spit and grumble as it shoots up white-vapor jets of steam, while the sun rises over the surrounding cordillera and bathes it in a sudden and surreal splash of red, violet, green, chartreuse and blue.

Puerto Williams, the Southernmost Spot

15

At the Americas’ southernmost outpost, yachties trade tales and wilderness looms larger than life. Part of the appeal is getting there, which means crossing the Beagle Channel. As villages go, Puerto Williams is the kind of place where people know your name within days of your arrival. For adventure, take the two-day ferry from Punta Arenas, with views of tumbling glaciers, or hike the Dientes de Navarino circuit (p385), a five-day walk through wild high country fringed by razor-faced peaks.

Rano Raraku

16

Chances are that you’ve never seen a quarry quite like this one. The volcano of Rano Raraku (p 413), known as ‘the nursery’, supplied the hard stuff that moai were shaped from. It’s like wandering back into early Polynesian times as you walk among the partially carved moai dotting the southern slopes of the volcano. Make it all the way to the top for an awe-inspiring 360-degree view. Within the crater, there are a number of standing moai and a shimmering lagoon.

The Lakes District

17

Don’t judge a district by its name. The Lakes District (Los Lagos) only tells part of the story. While turquoise, blue and green glacial lakes dominate the landscape, they’re not the only attraction. Play on towering, perfectly conal, snowcapped volcanoes. Visit charming lakeside hamlets such as Frutillar. Admire the green umbrella of parks like Parque Nacional Huerquehue. A long list of outdoor adventures and a unique, German-influenced Latin culture make for a cinematic region (p249). Below: Parque Nacional Huerquehue (p242)

Hills of Valparaíso

18

Generations of poets, artists, philosophers and shantysinging dockworkers have been inspired by the steep technicolor cerros (hills) of Valparaíso (p89). A maze of winding paths leads you to some of the nation’s best street art, remarkable views and a patchwork of dilapidated tin homes that whisper inspiration at every turn. A renaissance is bringing revived architecture, boutique hotels and amazing restaurants to a town whose soul is encapsulated by its syncopated cityscape, arching views, never-ceasing breeze and rumble-and-tumble docks.

Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos

19

Every year, 60,000 Magellanic penguin couples convene just off the coast of Punta Arenas on Isla Magdalena (p 341). Take a fast boat or ferry from the city to have a look at this enormous, squawking colony. Watching them as they waddle around, guard their nests, feed their fluffy, oversized offspring and turn a curious eye toward you makes for a great outing. There’s also a historic lighthouse-turnedvisitor center worth exploring. The penguins reside on the island from October to March.

Isla Robinson Crusoe

20

Little visited and hard to get to, Isla Robinson Crusoe in the Archipiélago Juan Fernández (p138) is one of the most beautiful and strange places you will see in Chile. For history lovers it’s a dream destination: Alexander Selkirk, the inspiration for the fictional Robinson Crusoe, spent lonely years here as a castaway. It was also a stop for 17th- and 18th-century pirates. Today’s visitors enjoy fantastic hiking, lobster dinners and scuba diving with the endemic Juan Fernández fur seals.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide (p445)

Currency

Chilean peso (CH$)

Language

Spanish

Visas

Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days. Australian citizens must pay a US$117 ‘reciprocity fee’ when arriving by air.

Money

ATMs are widely available, except along the Carretera Austral. Credit cards are accepted at higher-end hotels, some restaurants and shops. Traveler’s checks are not widely accepted.

Mobile Phones

Local SIM cards are cheap and widely available, for use with unlocked GSM 850/1900 phones. There’s 3G or 4G access in urban centers.

Time

UTC-3 (GMT minus four hours; GMT minus three hours during daylight savings, usually October to May).

When to Go

High Season

(Nov–Feb)

¨ Patagonia is best (and most expensive) December to February.

¨ Beaches throng with crowds from late December through January.

Shoulder

(Sep–Nov & Mar–May)

¨ Temperaturewise, these are the best times to visit Santiago.

¨ Lakes District is pleasant September to November; April brings fall foliage in the south.

¨ Wine country has grape harvests and wine festivals in March.

Low Season

(Jun–Aug)

¨ Best time for ski resorts is June to August.

¨ A good time to visit the north.

¨ Few services on the Carretera Austral; mountain passes can be blocked by snow.

¨ Transportation and accommodations are busy in July.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonely planet.com/chile) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

Sernatur (www.chile.travel/ en.html) The national tourism organization, in English, Spanish and French.

Santiago Times (www.santiago times.cl) Online newspaper in English with national coverage.

Visit Chile (www.visitchile.com) General tourist information.

Important Numbers

Country Code %56

International Access Code three-digit carrier + %0

Directory Assistance %103

National Tourist Information (in Santiago)

%562-7318310

Police %133

Exchange Rates

Australia A$1 CH$475

Canada C$1 CH$485

Euro zone €1 CH$731

Japan ¥100 CH$540

New Zealand NZ$1 CH$431

UK UK£1 CH$824

US US$1 CH$606

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget:

Less than CH$65,000

¨ Inexpensive hospedaje room/dorm bed: CH$10,000

¨ Budget-restaurant dinner main: CH$5000

¨ Three-course set lunch: CH$4000–7000

Midrange: CH$65,000–80,000

¨ Double room in midrange hotel or B&B: CH$50,000

¨ Midrange-restaurant dinner main: CH$8000

¨ Car rentals: start at CH$20,000 per day

Top End:

More than CH$80,000

¨ Double room in top-end hotel: CH$80,000

¨ Fine-restaurant dinner main: CH$14,000

¨ All-day guided outdoor adventures: CH$30,000–65,000

Opening Hours

Hours given are generally for high season. In many provincial cities and towns, restaurants and services are closed on Sunday and tourist offices close in low season.

Banks 9am–2pm weekdays, sometimes 10am–1pm Saturday

Government offices & businesses 9am–6pm weekdays

Museums Often close Monday

Post Offices 9am–6pm Monday to Friday, to noon Saturday

Restaurants Noon–11pm, many close 4pm–7pm

Shops 10am–8pm, some close 1pm–3pm

Arriving in Chile

Aeropuerto Internacional Arturo Merino Benítez (Santiago) There are frequent shuttle connections to downtown Santiago hotels (40 minutes, CH$7000). You can also catch a local bus (one hour to downtown, then transfer to the metro or Transantiago bus; CH$1700) or taxi (CH$18,000).

Getting Around

Traveling Chile from head to tail is easy, with a constant procession of flights and buses connecting cities up and down the country. What is less convenient is the service east to west, and south of Puerto Montt, where the country turns into a labyrinth of fjords, glaciers and mountains. However, routes are improving. Drivers are generally courteous and orderly. Toll highways are common.

Air A worthwhile time saver for long distances, with economical regional deals sold in-country.

Bus The best way to get around Chile: frequent, comfortable and reasonably priced, with service to towns throughout the country. Less useful for parks access.

Car Renting your own wheels can help to better explore remote regions like Patagonia.

Train Limited. A few lines can be useful for travelers in Central Chile.

For much more on getting around, see p455

If You Like...

Urban Exploration

Life spills into the streets with pop-up graffiti murals, sprawling food markets, narrow winding staircases and leafy museum neighborhoods in the vibrant Chilean cities of Santiago and Valparaíso.

La Vega Central Vendors hawk a feast of ripe figs, avocados and chirimoyas. Nearby Mercado Central dishes up seafood lunches. (p56)

Santiago museums Classic Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino contrasts with funky Museo de Arte Contemporáneo and fashion-forward Museo de la Moda. (p44)

Graffiti art Compelling graffiti murals flank the alleys and steep staircases of Valparaíso, making any stroll an exploration. (p89)

Night cycling At sunset the air cools, traffic eases and Santiago lights up – the witching hour for touring. (p63)

Centro Gabriela Mistral Grab the cultural pulse at Santiago’s cutting-edge performing-arts center. (p53)

Barrio Recoleta Get off the beaten path and sample an authentic neighborhood with great ethnic eats. (p56)

Hiking

Chile has 4000km of mountains bumping down its spine. From desert to temperate rainforest, trails are everywhere, so expand your itinerary to include a lesser-known route. You won’t regret it.

Putre Ideal base camp for high-altitude desert treks, less crowded than San Pedro de Atacama. (p186)

Siete Tazas Near wine country, a clear river drops through seven pools carved of black basalt. (p119)

Río Cochamó Valley A pristine valley of waterfalls, granite panoramas and well-marked trails, though the mud is infamous. (p268)

Cerro Castillo In the heart of Patagonia, trekking around this cathedral peak provides a top-notch four-day adventure. (p320)

Reserva Nacional Lago

Jeinimeini Stunning contrasts, from tough backpacking over mountain passes to short hikes to rock art. (p326)

Animal Encounters

Andean condors soar the peaks, and the cold Humboldt Current means

abundant marine life, from sea lions to migrating blue whales. Chile hosts a variety of camelids, diverse bird species and the huemul, an endangered national symbol.

Lago Chungará Teeming with birdlife, including the flamboyant Chilean flamingo, this surreal mirror lake sits high in the altiplano. (p188)

Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas

Over 20,000 of the park’s namesake camelids roam this high desert reserve surrounded by sky-hugging volcanoes. (p189)

Chiloé Both Magellanic and Humboldt penguins nest near Ancud; pudú and avian life inhabit Parque Tantauco. (p277)

Parque Nacional Patagonia

From guanaco, fox and condor to elusive puma and huemul, a treasure of Patagonian wildlife. (p330)

Food & Nightlife

In agricultural Chile, food is all about freshness, from amazing seafood to local wines and California-style produce. Nightlife ranges from rustic to sophisticated, hitting its apogee in the capital.

San Pedro de Atacama Take a tour of the night sky in one

of the world’s best spots for stargazing. (p146)

Santiago Contempo stylings and bold South American fusions ignite the restaurant scene at places like Peumayen and Étniko. (p44)

Lakes District Beyond German staples, asados (barbecues) feature natural local beef, berry pies and organic summer salad. (p249)

Santiago neighborhoods

Revelers light up the night in the party-till-you-drop dance halls of Bellavista and Lastarria’s upscale sidewalk cafes. (p44)

Patagonia Cocinas custombristas feature kitchens of grandmas stirring up fresh seafood concoctions. (p338)

Memorable Landscapes

Potent scenery is not hard to find in Chile, where the climate ranges from parched desert to glacial peaks.

Atacama Desert Red rock canyons, cactus scrub and copper mountains give contrast to the piercing blue sky. (p146)

Archipelago of Chiloé From western cliffs to eastern inlets pocked with stilt houses, these green isles feed the imagination. (p277)

Lakes District Rolling, rainsoaked countryside marked by dozens of deep-blue lakes and snowcapped volcanoes that stand sentinel. (p249)

Patagonian Andes The Andes range reaches its dramatic crescendo in the deepest south. (p358)

Rano Kau Among the South Pacific’s most striking landscapes, this crater lake overlooks the vast cobalt ocean. (p412)

Top: Valle de la Luna (p159)
Bottom: Rano Kau (p 412)

Tierra del Fuego Both rugged and mystical, a last-frontier destination of remote isles and wind-sculpted landscapes. (p379)

Remote Getaways

Over 90% of Chile’s population is concentrated in its middle. Escape in any direction, from the Atacama to remote Carretera Austral and barren Tierra del Fuego. Or visit Easter Island, the remotest Pacific isle.

Belén precordillera Off the beaten path, visit ancient pictographs, old colonial churches and lovely landscapes. (p183)

North coast of Easter Island

This eerie stretch north of Ahu Tahai passes towering moai and climbs grassy hills to the Pacific. (p412)

Raul Marín Balmaceda With overgrown ferns and streets of sand, this lost village is surrounded by otters, dolphins and sea lions. (p311)

Caleta Cóndor An isolated, postcard-worthy paradise along a protected stretch of hard-toreach indigenous coastline near Osorno. (p250)

Wine Country

Flanked by colonial bodegas, a Pacific breeze and the dazzling backdrop of the Andes, wine never tasted so good.

Ruta del Vino Link up with local experts around Santa Cruz touring the powerhouse wine region

responsible for Chile’s best reds. (p115)

Lapostolle winery A posh and lovely setting to acquaint yourself with Chile’s richest terroir. (p113)

Casablanca Valley A hub of excellent cool-climate winemaking and a quick getaway from Santiago. (p106)

Museo de Colchagua Don’t miss ‘el Gran Rescate,’ an exhibit on the daring rescue of the 33 miners. (p113)

Emiliana winery Make your tasting dessert with the chocolate and wine pairings at this organic winemaker. (p106)

Living History

Take a break from museums. Outdoors you can explore history that persists in coastal battleships, on pioneer trails and in Chilote villages still using their ancestral inventions.

Humberstone This whole nitrate boomtown gone ghost city whets the traveler’s imagination. (p174)

Ascensor Concepción Relive Valparaíso’s glory days climbing above the city on its oldest cable-car elevator. (p94)

Orongo Ceremonial Village

This ancient village places you in the geographical heart of easter Island’s strange bird-cult culture. (p412)

Lago Llanquihue Historic German villages confound Latin sensibilities with unique architecture and German sweets. (p256)

Mina San José Tour the site where trapped miners survived 69 days, guided by one of the original 33. (p211)

Iquique Board the old naval ship Esmeralda, a famous warship with a dark role in the dictatorship. (p167)

Northern Patagonia Ride the well-worn trails first forged by Patagonian pioneers around Palena and Futaleufú. (p306)

Pure Adrenaline

With high-quality outfitters, wild geography and pristine settings, Chile is a natural playground for adventure sports. Mountaineers, kitesurfers and backcountry skiers should bring their own equipment.

Skiing and snowboarding

Chile’s top ski resorts include Valle Nevado, Portillo and hot-springs mecca Nevados de Chillán. (p87)

Glacier treks Scramble up Torres del Paine’s Glacier Grey, Glaciar San Rafael or remote glaciers on the Carretera Austral. (p358)

Surfing Ride famous waves at Pichilemu or Iquique, or discover the quiet surf-shack style of Buchupureo. (p115)

Rafting and kayaking Paddle

Cajón de Maipo near Santiago, Puerto Varas’ Río Petrohué or the world-class Futaleufú. (p306)

Sand-boarding Sample this relatively new sport in San Pedro de Atacama and Iquique. (p146)

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

New Year’s Eve in Valparaíso, December

Fiestas Patrias, September

Carnaval Ginga , February

Campeonato Nacional de Rodeo, April

Tapati Rapa Nui, February

January

It’s summer peak season and Chileans start flocking to beaches. Annual celebrations break out in every Chilean town and city with live music, special feasts and fireworks.

It’s also high season in Patagonia.

z Brotes de Chile

One of Chile’s biggest folk festivals takes place in the second week of January and includes traditional dances, food and crafts in Angol.

z Muestra Cultural Mapuche

Six days of all things Mapuche in Villarrica, including artisans, indigenous music, foods and ritual dance.

2 Ruta del Huemul

Held the last week in January, this two-day, hundredperson community hike traverses Reserva Nacional Tamango near Cochrane. Reserve ahead in order to participate.

z Santiago a Mil

Latin America’s biggest theater festival (www. stgoamil.cl) brings acts to the streets of Santiago, as well as international works, emerging theater and acrobats.

3 Semanas Musicales

All month, prestigious international acts ranging from classical to hip-hop come south to perform in Frutillar’s stunning Teatro de Frutillar (www.semanas musicales.cl), with sublime lake and volcano views.

February

February is Chileans’ favorite month to vacation. With unrelenting heat from the north to Santiago, people flock south, particularly to Pucón and the Lakes District. Beaches fill and Santiago nightlife transplants to Viña del Mar and Valparaíso.

z Carnaval

Putre puts out highland merriment and flour bombs, ending with the burning of the momo – a figure symbolizing the frivolity of Carnaval.

z Carnaval Ginga

Held in Arica in midFebruary, this festival features the musical skills of regional comparsas (traditional dancing groups).

z Festival Costumbrista

Castro struts Chiloé’s distinctive folk music and dance, plying revelers with heaps of traditional foods in mid-February.

3 Festival Internacional de la Canción

This fancy star-studded concert series held in Viña del Mar showcases top names in Latin American pop.

z Fiesta de la Candelaria

A religious festival in early February, most fervently celebrated in Copiapó, where thousands of pilgrims and dancers converge.

z Tapati Rapa Nui

The premier festival on Easter Island is an incredibly

colorful event that keeps the party going for two weeks, with a series of dance, music and cultural contests.

March

A great month to travel. As fall moves in, summer crowds disperse. Though all of Chile cools a bit, usually Southern Patagonia is still dry and less windy, with great hiking weather. The central valley’s grape harvest begins.

z Fiesta de la Vendimia

Santa Cruz celebrates the grape harvest with stands from local wineries in the plaza, a harvest queen, songs and folk dancing.

3 Lollapalooza Chile

Chile rocks this international edition (www.lollapa loozacl.com), with 60 bands playing Santiago’s Parque O’Higgins; kids get their hair punked at the adjoining Kidsapalooza.

April

Bright reds and yellows highlight the forests of Northern Patagonia, though rain will come any day. The south is clearing out, but you might get lucky with decent hiking weather. Santiago and the central valley enjoy stillpleasant temperatures.

3 Campeonato Nacional de Rodeo

In Rancagua in April, the National Rodeo Championship features feasting, cueca

Top: Tapati Rapa Nui (p406), Easter Island
Bottom: Carnaval (p150), San Pedro de Atacama

(a playful, handkerchiefwaving dance that imitates the courtship of a rooster and hen) and, most importantly, Chilean cowboys showing off their fancy horse skills.

June

Winter begins. With days at their shortest, nightlife and cultural events pick up. The world-class ski resorts around Santiago start gearing up and it’s a good time to visit the desert.

z Festival de la Lluvia

Why not celebrate what’s most plentiful in a Lakes District winter – rain? This cheeky week of free events in Puerto Varas includes a parade of decorated umbrellas and live music.

z Fiesta de San Pedro y San Pablo

In San Pedro de Atacama, folk-dancing groups, a rodeo and solemn processions mark this animated religious festival.

July

Chilean winter vacation means family travel is in full swing. Ski resorts are up and running and those who brave Patagonia will find lovely winter landscapes without the infamous wind of summer.

z Carnaval de Invierno

Punta Arenas gets through the longest nights with fireworks, music and parades in late July.

z Festival de la Virgen del Carmen

Some 40,000 pilgrims pay homage to Chile’s virgin with lots of street dancing, curly-horned devil masks with flashing eyes and spangly cloaks. Held in La Tirana in mid-July.

August

August represents the tail end of the ski season and cheaper lodgings in holiday destinations, now that school vacation is over. In the south, winter rains begin to taper off.

z Festival de Jazz de Ñuñoa

Held in late August, this free winter jazz fest brings together Chile’s best jazz acts for a weekend of music.

z Fiesta de Santa Rosa de Lima

A huge Catholic celebration of the criollo saint with a colorful street procession, held August 30.

September

Spring comes to Santiago, with mild, sunny days. Though low season, it’s not a bad time to travel. Everything closes and people get boisterous the week of the national holiday.

z Fiestas Patrias

Chilean Independence is feted during Fiestas Patrias (week of September 18), with a week of big barbecues, terremotos (potent wine punch) and merrymaking all over Chile.

October

October is a fine time to travel, with spring flowers blossoming in both northern and central Chile.

z Oktoberfest

Join the swillers and oompah bands in Puerto Varas and Valdivia for live music in lederhosen and beer festivals.

November

Chile’s south is in full bloom though the weather is still crisp. It’s a good time to visit the beach resorts and Patagonia; the crowds and high prices are still a month or so away.

7 Feria Internacional de Artesania

Weavers, potters and artisans show off Chile’s best traditional crafts at a huge fair in Providencia’s Parque Bustamante.

December

Summer begins and services return to the Carretera Austral. It’s still quiet but an ideal time for outdoor activities in the Lakes District and Patagonia.

z New Year’s Eve

December 31 means the year’s biggest bash in Valparaíso, where revelers fill open balconies and streets to dance, drink and watch fireworks on the bay.

Another random document with no related content on Scribd:

Riffe, there may be some justice in the claim of Strasburg to be the birthplace of the printing-press. The completed press, however, was not produced until Gutenberg had returned to the old home city of the family—Mayence.

After the close of the suit brought by Dritzehn against Gutenberg, that is to say, after 1440, there are no further references to Gutenberg’s undertakings in Strasburg. It is not even known whether or not he continued business operations there, but it appears that he was dwelling there as late as 1444. In 1448, he is recorded as again a citizen of Mayence, and it was in Mayence that, in 1450, the completed invention became known to the world.

Gutenberg’s name stands on no title-page and is connected with no colophon. The fact, however, that the full responsibility for the invention belongs to him is borne witness to by his contemporaries, Peter Schöffer, Ulrich Zell, the Abbot Trithemius, Jacob Wimpheling, and others. In a chronicle of the archbishop of Mayence, continued to the year 1555 and compiled by Count Wilhelm von Zimmern, it is recorded that the noble art of book-printing was discovered in Mayence by a worthy citizen named Gutenberg, who devoted to the invention all his time and resources until he had brought it to a successful completion.

In 1470, a letter was written by the scholar, Wilhelm Fichet, of Paris, to the historian, Robert Gaguin, which letter was later printed on the last sheet of a volume published in Paris and in Basel, entitled: Gasparini Pergamensis Orthographiæ Liber. This letter contains an enthusiastic description of the new art of book-printing discovered in Germany by Gutenberg. The writer says: “There has been discovered in Germany a wonderful new method for the production of books, and those who have mastered this method are taking their invention from Mayence out into the world somewhat as the old Grecian warriors took their weapons from the belly of the Trojan horse. The light of this wonderful discovery will spread from Germany to all parts of the earth. I have been told by three foreigners—Kranz, Freiburger, and Gering—that Gutenberg has succeeded in producing books by means of metal letters in place of using the handiwork of the scribes.”

Fichet goes on to speak of Gutenberg as “bringing more blessings upon the world than were given by the goddess Ceres, for Ceres could bestow only material food, while through Gutenberg the productions of the thinkers could be brought within the reach of all people.” This letter was written only two years after the death of Gutenberg, and as it came from Basel, one of the first cities to which the new art had been carried from Mayence, it constitutes very good contemporary evidence as to the immediate credit that was given to Gutenberg for the invention.[428]

The historical date now given for the completion of the invention is August 22, 1450. On this date Gutenberg entered into a contract with Johann Fust, a wealthy citizen and goldsmith of Mayence, under which contract Fust loaned to Gutenberg, with interest at 6 per cent. (a low rate for that period), the sum of 800 gulden in gold. This sum Gutenberg agreed to utilise in developing his invention, while the material of the workshop to be instituted was pledged to Fust as security for the repayment of the loan. The sum proved insufficient for establishing the necessary plant, and two years later Fust added a further sum of 800 gulden.

Gutenberg pledged himself, as afterwards stated in the lawsuit which arose between Fust and himself, to use this money for the printing of books,—“das werk der bücher.” At the time Gutenberg secured this loan, it seemed evident that, in experimenting with and in developing his invention, he had exhausted his own entire resources.

Gutenberg could, of course, lay no claim to being in any literal sense of the term the first printer. Printing in one form or another had been carried on in Germany and elsewhere for a number of years, and printing from movable blocks had, in fact, been done in China 400 years or more before the beginning of Gutenberg’s work. As early as the twelfth century, says Kapp, there are numerous references to cloth printers, stampers of letters, and printers of maps. The oldest wood-cut known to have been produced in Europe, is a representation of S. Christopher, and bears date 1423. At about this time, and probably, in fact, some years earlier, was begun in Holland, as previously stated, the work of printing from wooden

blocks, the designs being principally devoted to holy subjects. In connection with such designs, there had been printing also from letterings cut out of solid wooden blocks, and these letterings had even in some cases been cut upon blocks sufficient to occupy an entire page.

The practical contribution made by Gutenberg, which developed from the easy processes of stamping designs and brief lines of lettering, a method by means of which whole books could be produced, was first, in the use of movable metal type, produced by casting, and second, in an improvement made in the mechanism of the hand presses by which larger sheets could be worked.

The first work produced with this movable metal type was a Latin version of the Bible. The description of this volume is first given in a chronicle of Cologne, dating from the year 1499, the statements in which rest upon the authority of Ulrich Zell, who was the first printer in Cologne.

Concerning the further operations of Gutenberg, we are mainly dependent upon the references in the records of the suit brought by Fust, in 1445, for the repayment of his loan, and upon a document of 1468 in which a certain Dr. Humery entered into an undertaking with the Archbishop of Mayence that the printing-office plant left by the deceased Johann Gutenberg shall not be permitted to be taken out of the city of Mayence. This later reference had to do with a second printing-press established by Gutenberg with the aid of the said Humery.

In the suit brought by Fust, Gutenberg contended that the second payment of 800 gulden agreed upon had never been given to him in full. He stated further that Fust had agreed to advance 300 gulden per year for use in the purchase of materials, paper, parchment, type-metal, and ink. The matter of the later accountings between Fust and Gutenberg is evidently a complicated one and need not be considered here in detail. Gutenberg’s inability to repay the first and more important loan for the payment of which his first printing-press had been mortgaged, caused the ownership of this office to come into the control of Fust.

Fortunately, by the time his first venture had thus been closed, as far at least as he was concerned, he had been able to give sufficient evidence of the importance and of the commercial value of the undertaking to be in a position to interest others in his schemes.

His second printing-press was in like manner pledged to the associate who provided the capital,—Dr. Humery,—and the business of this office appears to have been continued without break until the time of Gutenberg’s death in 1468. With these new resources at hand, Gutenberg was able to cast some new fonts of type, and to make various improvements in his working methods.

The first issues of the new press, the organisation of which appears to have been completed about 1457, were volumes containing the writings of Mätthaus de Cracovia and Thomas Aquinas. The third book was the famous first edition of the Catholicon, a grammatical compilation of the Dominican monk Balbus from Genoa. The Catholicon was a folio containing no less than 373 rather closely printed sheets. In the meantime, Fust had associated with him Schöffer or Schoiffher, who had been an assistant of Gutenberg, and the two were continuing work in the original printing-office.

The sacking of Mayence, in 1462, by Adolph of Nassau, put an end, for the time, to all business in the city, including the work of the new printing-presses. Gutenberg betook himself to the neighbouring town of Eltville, which, as early as 1420, had given shelter to his parents, and there he carried on his printing for a time under the protection of Archbishop Adolph.

Kapp points out that the printing art had its development, not in a university centre, but in a commercial town, and was from the outset carried on, not by scholars, but by workers of the people, and that this fact doubtless had an important influence in bringing the whole business of the production of books and the distribution of literature into closer relations with the mass of the German people than was the case in France.

In France, as will be noted later, the first printers were directly associated with the university, succeeding immediately to the official

university scribes, and the production of books through the presses continued to be under direct control of the university, as had been the case from the beginning with the production of books in manuscript. The fact that the control of the first French presses rested with the university Faculty, undoubtedly exercised an important influence on the choice of the books to be printed, and the first issues of the French presses were, therefore, in the main restricted to editions of the classics or to works of jurisprudence and medicine belonging to the official lists of the university texts. The earlier issues of the German press, on the other hand, were books belonging in no way to the university curriculum, but were addressed directly to the interests of the people at large.

While the modifications introduced by Gutenberg into the methods of printing, under which the old engraved blocks were replaced by movable leaden type, seem slight in themselves, they constituted nevertheless a new art. The actual changes were but inconsiderable, but the practical result was a revolution in the possibilities of the press.

Gutenberg’s work as a printer was, from a commercial point of view, never successful. During the eighteen years which elapsed between the time of his invention and the date of his death, he seems to have been always under the pressure of debt and money difficulties. He had in fact no time to make money. He had given up, in his devotion to his invention, previous business undertakings which were remunerative, and he had absorbed in the development of the printing-press all the resources that he could control. His interest, however, was evidently that of perfecting an art rather than of creating a business; and in spite of his various difficulties and his several lawsuits with his associates, it is in evidence as part of the testimony in these very suits, that he was recognised by all as a man of knowledge and character, and as a born leader, whose integrity of purpose and whose nobility of aim were acknowledged by all with whom he had to do. With all his misfortunes, he seems never for a moment to have lost confidence in the value to the world of his idea, and to this idea, with no thought of personal gain or advantage, he was willing to devote his means and his life.

The difference between the production each year of a few hundred copies of religious or classical works by the laborious toil of the monks or the university scribes, works which could at best benefit only the limited circle of readers who were within reach either of the monasteries or of the universities, and a world-wide distribution, as well of the great books of the earlier times which belonged to the world’s literature as of the current thoughts of the contemporary generation, was a difference, not of degree, but of kind. It was a revolution in the history of human thought and in the influence of thought upon humanity

If the invention of printing had not taken shape in the brain of Gutenberg, it would doubtless have come to the world through some other worker, and, in fact, with no very great delay, for other men were already busying themselves with the same great need and were on the track of the same means of supplying the need. As the history stands, however, the credit for the revolution must be given to the mirror-maker of Mayence. Other sailors would certainly have found their way to the Western Continent if the opportunity or the attempt of Columbus had failed, but it is to Columbus that history gives the laurel crown.

Gutenberg, and the printers who followed him, naturally selected as the first models for their newly founded type the script letters with which they were familiar in the best manuscripts. The first font of type manufactured by Gutenberg, which was used in his earliest publication, The Folio Bible, was known as the “missal type,” having been copied from the script adopted by the monks for the books of worship. This style of type was followed for a long time for Bibles and for religious works generally One of the earlier objections against printed books was that they were so much less beautiful in their appearance than the work of the best scribes, and it was the finest script that remained as the ideal to be attained by the type-founders and the clear black impression of the best oak-gall writing ink that was to be imitated by the impressions from the presses.

The scholarly lovers of fine books in Germany regarded the new art at the outset with no little disapproval and criticism. The collectors who had brought together, with much labour and expenditure, stores

of valuable manuscripts dreaded lest, through the multiplication of comparatively inexpensive copies of their texts, the value of their collections should be taken away. When the messengers of Cardinal Bessarion were shown by the Greek Laskaris (later the author of the first Greek grammar that came into print), a specimen of one of the earlier printed books, they spoke sneeringly of this so-called discovery which had been made by a barbarian from a German city.[429] The great manuscript-dealer, Vespasiano, writing in 1482 concerning the magnificent ducal library in Urbino, the volumes in which had been largely either collected or purchased by himself or under his own direction, says: “In this library all the volumes are of perfect beauty, all written, by skilled scribes, on parchment and many of them adorned with exquisite miniatures. The collection contains no single printed book. The Duke (Frederick) would be ashamed to have a printed book in his library.”[430] By collectors like Frederick and manuscript-dealers like Vespasiano, the new art was considered to be merely a mechanical method of producing inartistic volumes, with which none but uncultivated people could be satisfied.

For a number of years, therefore, after the work of the first presses, there were still produced beautiful specimens of manuscripts, more particularly of Italian and French books of worship, and for this class of manuscripts the work of the hand illuminators and miniature painters continued to be utilised. In Germany there are various examples of books which had been printed, being again produced in written copy, as for instance, the Chronicon Urspergense, of Hroswitha.[431] It was also the case that for the production of large choir-books the work of the scribes continued to be useful.

Trithemius, Abbot of Sponheim, wrote to Gerlach, Abbot of Deutz, a letter which was printed in 1494 in Mayence, under the title, De Laude Scriptorum Manualium. In this he says:

“A work written on parchment could be preserved for a thousand years, while it is probable that no volume printed on paper will last for more than two centuries. Many important works have not been printed, and the copies required of these must be prepared by

scribes. The scribe who ceases his work because of the invention of the printing-press can be no true lover of books, in that, regarding only the present, he gives no due thought to the intellectual cultivation of his successors. The printer has no care for the beauty and the artistic form of books, while with the scribe this is a labour of love.”[432]

Notwithstanding such criticism on the part of a few scholarly churchmen, the influence of Rome and of the Church generally, during the earlier work of the printers, was very largely favourable and had not a little to do with the support given to the work which might easily otherwise have been given up for lack of adequate business return. The Church of Rome felt itself at this time sufficiently secure in its control of the minds of men to be prepared to utilise to full advantage all methods for distributing its doctrinal literature, and to have no dread as to these same means being used for the scattering of heretical teachings. The popes of the time, largely influenced by the spirit of the Renaissance, gave a cordial welcome to the revival of scholarly interests and to the printing-press as an important means for furthering the general education and the intellectual development of the community. Their interest was by no means limited to the distribution of doctrinal works, but in these earlier years of publishing they welcomed, and to a considerable extent co-operated in, the production of editions, for general circulation, of the works of the pagan classics.

Hegel says, in his Philosophy of History, that the renewed interest in the studying of the writings of the ancients found an important support in the service of the printing-press. He goes on to point out that the Church felt no anxiety concerning this renewed interest in pagan literature, and evidently did not imagine that this literature was introducing into the minds of men a new element of suggestion and of inquiry.

It may be considered as one of the fortunate circumstances attending the introduction of the art of printing that the popes of the time were largely men of liberal education and of intellectual tastes, while one or two, such as Nicholas V., Julius II., and Leo X., had a very keen personal interest in literature and were collectors of books.

The fact that Leo X. was a luxury-loving, free-thinking prince rather than a devoted Christian leader or teacher, may very probably have been in the end a service for the enlightenment and development of his own generation and of the generations that were to come. An earnest and narrow-minded head of the Church could, during the first years of the sixteenth century, have retarded not a little the development of the work of producing books for the community at large.

It was a number of years before the dread of the use of the printing-press for the spread of heretical doctrines and of a consequent undermining of the authority of the Church assumed such proportions in the minds of the popes in Rome and with the bishops elsewhere, as to cause the influence of the Church to be placed against the interests of the world of literature. As a result of this early acceptance by the Church of the printing-press as a useful ally and servant, the first Italian presses were supported by bishops and cardinals in the work of producing classics for scholarly readers, while at the other extremity of the Church organisation, and at a distance of a thousand miles or more from Rome, the Brothers of Common Life were using the presses in their Brotherhood homes for the distribution of cheap books among the people.

Berthold von Henneberg, Elector of Mayence, speaks of “The Divine Art of Printing.”[433] The Carthusian monk, Werner Rolewinck, writes, in his Outline History of the World (Fasciculus Temporum): “The art of printing which has been discovered in Mayence is the art of arts, the science of sciences, by means of which it will be possible to place in the hands of all men treasures of literature and of knowledge which have heretofore been out of their reach.”

Joh. Rauchler, the first Rector of the Tübingen High School (later the University of Tübingen), rejoices that through the new art so many authors can now be brought within the reach of students in Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, authors who are witnesses for the Christian faith, and the service of whose writings to the Church and to the world is so great, that he can but consider “this art as a gift directly from God himself.”[434] Felix Fabri, Prior of the Dominican

monastery in Ulm, says, in his Historia Suevorum, issued in the year 1459, that “no art that the world has known can be considered so worthy, so useful, so much to be esteemed, indeed, so divine as that which has now, through the Grace of God, been discovered in Mayence.”

The first printing work done by the Brothers of Common Life dates from 1468. They appear to have promptly utilised their scribes as compositors and their illuminators as designers for the new form in which their books were produced. Many of the Benedictine monasteries which had for so many centuries led the way in the preservation and the multiplication of literature at once associated presses with their monasteries and had their monks trained in the art of setting type and of printing sheets.

Among the monastery printing-presses were those of the Carthusian monastery in Strasburg, the monastery of S. Ulrich and Afra, in Augsburg, and the Benedictine monasteries in Nuremberg and Rostock. As a rule, in places where the work of scribes had been active, the printing-press found a ready acceptance. It was not long, however, before so great a development in the methods of the printing business was brought about that it became difficult for the monasteries to carry on the work effectively, and by the middle of the sixteenth century the production of books in monasteries had practically ceased.

The favourable relations between the Church and the printers were checked by the Humanistic movement, which, a generation or more before the Reformation, began to bring into question the authority of the Church and the infallibility of papacy. The influence of the Humanistic teachers was so largely furthered by the co-operation of the printers that the jealousy and dread of the ecclesiastical authorities were promptly aroused, and they began to utter fulminations against the wicked and ignorant men who were using the art of printing for misleading the community and for the circulation of error. The ecclesiastics, who had at first favoured the widest possible circulation of the Scriptures, now contended that much of the heretical teaching was due to the misunderstanding of

the Scriptures on the part of readers who were acting without the guidance of their spiritual advisers.

The authorities of the Church now began to take the ground that the reading of the Scriptures by individuals was not to be permitted, and that the Bible was to be given to the community only through the interpretation of the Church. At the same time, the authority of the Church was exerted to repress, or at least to restrict, the operations of the printing-press, and to bring printers and publishers under a close ecclesiastical supervision and censorship. It was now, however, too late to stand between the printing-press and the people. Large portions of the community had become accustomed to a wide circulation of books and to the selection without restriction of such reading-matter as might be placed within their reach, and this privilege they were no longer willing to forego.

It was nevertheless true that in certain countries, particularly in Italy and in France, the censorship of the Church was strong enough seriously to hamper and interfere with publishing undertakings and to check the natural development of literary production. Even in Italy, however, the critical spirit was found to be too strong to be entirely crushed out, and from Venice, the most important of the Italian publishing centres, it proved possible to secure for the productions of the printing-press a circulation that was practically independent of the censorship of Rome.

The Humanistic movement was, on other grounds, of immediate service for the printers and publishers, in that it brought about an active demand for the works of classical writers, a demand which it required the fullest resources of the earlier printers to supply.

If the invention of Gutenberg had taken shape during the period when there happened to be no such active intellectual literary interests, the first printers might easily have found it difficult to secure business for their presses and the development of the business of book production would have been seriously hampered. The long series of controversies which were brought into being by the Reformation, and the large mass of controversial literature which was the result of the Reformation, constituted, a generation later,

another favourable influence in securing an assured foundation for the business of the printers. If it be the case that the work of the leaders of the Reformation could hardly have been carried on without the aid of the printing-press, it is also true that at a time when the business of the early printers was in a very critical and unremunerative condition, the impetus given to the production of literature, and the increased eagerness on the part of the common people for literature, formed an essential factor in making an assured foundation for the business of the printers and the publishers.

In 1462, on the 28th of October, Archbishop Adolph of Nassau captured the city of Mayence and gave it over to his soldiers for plunder. The typesetters and printers, with all other artisans whose work depended upon the commerce of the city, were driven to flight, and it appeared for the moment as if the newly instituted printing business had been crushed out. The result of the scattering of the printers, however, was the introduction of the new art into a number of other centres where the influences were favourable for its development.

The typesetters of Mayence, driven from their printing-offices by the heavy hand of the Church, journeyed throughout the world, carrying their new knowledge and training and they were able to give to many communities the means of education and enlightenment through which the great revolt against the Church was finally instituted. The work of the printers, checked for the time in Mayence, took shape promptly in Strasburg, and from there was taken down the Rhine to Cologne, and in a few years was also in active operation in Basel, Augsburg, Ulm, and Nuremberg. In 1464, as elsewhere described, German printers carried their invention into Italy and erected the first Italian printing-press in Subiaco. And in 1470, also through Germans, the work of the printers began in Paris.

The shrewd and enterprising merchant Fust, by means of whose capital Gutenberg had been able to begin his business operations, would hardly have pressed his suit against his associate, if he had not had confidence in the value of the invention. As soon as, through the decision of 1455, he came into possession of the presses, he at once put these again into operation. He found a practical

superintendent or co-worker in Peter Schöffer Schöffer was a German by birth, but had carried on work in Paris as a scribe or writer of higher class manuscripts, as illuminator, and as a manuscript-dealer. Returning to Mayence in 1454, he had entered the employ of Gutenberg as type-setter and proof-reader. Later, having married the daughter of Fust, he was taken into partnership by his father-in-law, and was able to make a satisfactory organisation and a wide development for the business of the printing-office. The first publication issued by Fust & Schöffer was a psalter printed (in Latin) on parchment, with the great missal type.

The second work, undertaken, not at the risk of the printers, but at the cost of two of the Mayence monasteries, was an edition of a great choir-book. This psalter, or rather psalterium, is the first printed work in which the name of the printer is given and the date of the publication. It apparently proved possible to secure for this book even with the very inadequate distributing machinery that was available, a remunerative sale, as it was printed again in 1490, in 1502, in 1515, and in 1516.

Among the earlier publications of Fust & Schöffer are the Rationale Divinorum Officiorum of the Dominican monk Durandus, which was issued in 1459, the Codex Constitutionum of Pope Clement, issued in 1460, and the Bull of Emperor Frederic III. against Diether von Isenburg, printed in 1461. The most beautiful and most important production of their press was, however, the great Latin Bible issued in 1462, in two folio volumes, and which is known as the “48 line Bible.”

The work of the printing-office was, as previously stated, stopped by the sacking of the city, and the two partners appear to have migrated for the time to Frankfort. In 1464, they were again in Mayence, and in that year they published the sixth book of the Decretals of Pope Boniface VIII., and the De Officiis of Cicero. The latter was the first of the German editions of the classics, and remained a favourite book with the German printers, being repeatedly reprinted.

In 1453, Fust made a journey to Paris in order to find sale there for his big Bible. This was four years before the first Paris printing-press began its work, and it was in connection with this big Bible that the gossip arose of Fust being able, through compact with the Devil, to produce an indefinite number of copies of a book. It could not be understood how in any other way these copies could be offered so cheaply. The University of Paris was at that date the most important in Europe, and the influence of the University upon the cultivation of the city and its close relations with the old book-trade in manuscripts, had made Paris the most important European centre for literary production and the place where scholars were in the habit of looking for their material. It was in Paris, if anywhere, that it should prove possible to find sale for the Latin Bible, and Fust’s efforts appear to have met with a prompt success. The first Bible bearing a date was completed in 1462, and is known as the Mayence Bible. At the time it was in readiness (in October) nothing could be done in getting it into the market, as Mayence was being besieged by Adolph of Nassau. In 1466, Fust is again in Paris with copies of the second edition of his De Officiis, and with other of his publications.

There is still preserved in the city library of Geneva a copy of this edition of Cicero, which contains the record that it was bought by Louis de la Vernada, in Paris, in July, 1466, from Fust.[435]

Fust & Schöffer may claim to have been the first printers who acted also as publishers and booksellers. Notwithstanding the many difficulties with which they had had to contend, they were able to offer their books at prices which, to the old dealers in manuscripts, seemed astounding and which gave some pretext for the charge of magic. Madden says that a copy of the “48 line Bible” printed on parchment, could be bought in Paris, in 1470, for 2000 francs, and that the cost of the same text a few years earlier in manuscript form would have been five times as great. Bishop John of Aleria, writing in 1467 to Pope Paul II., says that it is now possible to purchase in Rome for 20 gulden, gold, works which a few years earlier would have cost not less than 100 gulden, and that other books now selling as low as 4 gulden would previously have cost not less than 20 gulden. The first results of the printing-press appear, therefore, to

have been a reduction of about four fifths in the price of work of a scholarly character.

Fust is entitled to the description, not only of the second printer and of the first publisher, but of the first pirate in printed books. In 1465, Mentel printed in Strasburg under the title of De Arte Prædicatoria, the fourth book of S. Augustine’s De Doctrina Christiana. The editor states that he had, for the purpose of this edition, collected manuscript texts in the libraries of Heidelberg, Speyer, Worms, and Strasburg, and that he had induced Joh. Mentel, a “master of the art of printing,” to put the volume into a form available for the general use of clerics.

Fust reprinted this volume in 1466, following the text with precision, and simply replacing Mentel’s name with his own. This is the first instance of literary appropriation of which there is any record, after the beginning of printing.[436]

After the death of Fust, which occurred early in 1467, Schöffer continued the business with Fust’s sons, and established branches in Paris and in Angers. His name appears for the first time alone on the title-page of the Thomas Aquinas, published in a folio of 516 pages in March, 1467. He prints it in full as Petrus Schoiffher de Gernsheim. In a receipt for 15 gold crowns, paid by the College of Autun for a copy of this, Schoiffher styles himself Impressor Librorum. He appears to have made sale in Paris not only of his own publications, but of the books issued by other German printers.

In a copy of the work of Johannus Scotus, printed by Koberger in 1474, now contained in the library of the Paris Arsenal, appears the entry, “I, Peter Schöffer, printer from Mayence, acknowledge that I have received from the worthy Magistrate, Johannus Henrici, of Pisa, three scuta as the price of this book.”[437] Schöffer seems to have acted in some measure also as purchasing agent for the University of Paris, through an associate, Guimier, who was a licensed member of the Paris guild. The Paris branch of the business was given up a few years later, and Schöffer devoted his energies to extending his trade in Germany. In 1479, his name appears in the list of the citizens of Frankfort, and the removal to Frankfort of his publishing

headquarters constituted the first step towards the selection of that city as the centre of the publishing and bookselling trade of Germany, a position that it retained for more than a century. Schöffer continued, however, to do the work of his printing in Mayence.

Some light is thrown upon the extent of the publishing undertakings carried on at the time by Schöffer with his associate Hancquis, by the record of a suit brought by the two partners in 1480 against a certain Bernhard Inkus, of Frankfort. They charged Inkus with having begun the publication of a considerable series of books, the property right in which (Eigentumsrecht) vested in themselves and in Conrad Henki (who was a son of Fust). It does not appear from the record of this trial on what grounds Schöffer and his associates claimed the right to control these books, or whether the unauthorised issues of which they complained had been printed by the defendant Inkus or were simply being offered for sale by him on behalf of other printers.

The case appears to have been referred or possibly appealed to a court in Basel, and by this court was issued some preliminary injunction against the continued sale of the books complained of. The record giving the final decision of the case is, however, missing. The lack of full details of the suit is the more to be regretted as it appears to have been the first case after the invention of printing involving, if not copyright ownership, at least a certain control by contract.

In the same year we find the Magistracy of the City of Frankfort applying to the Magistracy of the City of Lübeck for the protection of Schöffer against some illegitimate infringement of Schöffer’s business rights on the part of the Lübeck citizen Hans Bitz. Here also is there no record as to the result of the application. The firm also had dealings with Ulm, as appears from a claim made, in 1481, for the collection of the moneys due from certain citizens in Ulm— Harscher, Ruwinger, and Ofener, for books delivered. They sent to Ulm, with a protection certificate given by Elector Diether of Mayence, a representative who was empowered to collect the money. There was at the outset some delay in connection with an alleged informality in his authorisation, but the Magistracy of Ulm

sent back word that as soon as the requisite authorisation was secured, the collection of the money would be enforced in due course.

These cases are evidence of a certain organisation of machinery for the distribution of books and for the management of a publishing business, within a comparatively brief period after the beginning of the work of the printing-presses, and they indicate also that the second firm which entered into the business of printing had succeeded in establishing such business on fairly assured foundations, and in carrying on successfully large undertakings. It is to be noted further that Fust & Schöffer, and other of the earlier German printers, did their work without the assistance of any patronage, and without even the advantage of a university connection. The early printers of Italy would have found it impracticable to carry on their operations without the assistance of certain wealthy and enterprising noblemen who were prepared to interest themselves in the new art either from curiosity or from philanthropy, and as late even as 1495, that is to say nearly half a century after the beginning of printing, the organisation of the business of Aldus was dependent upon the favour and services of certain of his noble friends. In Paris the first printers were helped, and in part supported, by the money of patrons or of the Crown, and by the co-operation and influence of the University. In England also the influence of Oxford was of material importance in securing for the first printers some assured foundation and support, while the work of Caxton and his immediate successors in London was also largely furthered by, if not actually dependent upon, the work or help of noble and wealthy friends.

In Germany, however, the printing work began, as we have seen, through the enterprise and ingenuity of a citizen manufacturer who was supported by the middle class of the community, and who made his first connections directly with the townspeople. The help of the universities appears to have been of comparatively smaller importance. It probably counted for more in Cologne than in any other of the university cities in which the earlier printers did their work.

In the course of the thirty-six years of his independent business activity, that is from the death of Fust in 1466 to the time of his own death, Schöffer printed in all fifty-nine works which bear date and which have been identified as his. His firm took rank for this period as by far the most important printing and publishing concern in existence.

With hardly an exception, the books issued from his press were folios. They were printed with fifty to sixty lines on the page, and contained an average of about 300 pages or 150 sheets.

Among the works included in the list are the Constitutiones of Clement V., the Institutions of Justinian, the Expositio Sententiarum of Thomas Aquinas, the Epistolæ of S. Jerome, the sixth book of the Decretals of Boniface VIII., the Decretals of Gregory IX., the Codex of Justinian, and the Expositio Psalterii of Joh. Torquemada. The last named volume had already been printed in Subiaco and again in Rome under the direct supervision of the author, who was supplying the funds for carrying on the first printing-office established in Italy.

After Schöffer’s death in 1502, his son printed an edition of the Mercurius Trimegistus.

I do not find record of the arrangement entered into by Schöffer for the editing of the texts of the works printed by him. The collection of manuscripts for use as “copy” for printers, and the collection of different manuscripts in order to secure the most complete and accurate texts, must have called for a considerable measure of scholarly and of general literary knowledge.

It does not appear that Schöffer had enjoyed opportunities for making himself a scholarly authority, or that he ever made claim to any special scholarly attainments. There is no record of editorial work done by himself in the books issued from his press, as was the case to so exceptional a degree a few years later with the books printed by Aldus; nor has Schöffer preserved in connection with his editions the names of the editors who supervised their publication, as came to be the practice later with the issues of the Aldine press, of Froben in Basel, and of Koberger in Nuremberg. As far as I can ascertain, however, the Schöffer texts compared favourably for

accuracy and for authority with other of the earlier printed books, and it is to be assumed, therefore, that he had been able to organise an adequate critical staff or to secure from time to time, as required, the services of competent scholars.

The business founded by Gutenberg, taken possession of under mortgage by Fust, and carried on first by Fust & Schöffer, and later by Schöffer and other associates, lasted nearly one hundred years. The first publication was, as noted, the big Psalterium, printed in 1457, and the last, an edition of the German version of the books of Livy, printed by Ivo Schöffer in 1557.

It seems evident that while the credit for the great invention fairly belongs to Gutenberg, and the original planning and initiative of the business were his, a large measure of business capacity must have belonged to his partner Fust, who had also, to be sure, the advantage of being a capitalist to begin with, a factor as important in the earliest time of publishing as in the present day.

One of the most definite pieces of testimony in regard to the connection of Gutenberg with the invention of printing, testimony which possesses special value as coming from a person possessing first-hand knowledge of the facts, is contained in an Epilogue written in verse by John Schöffer (son of Peter), and printed at the end of the Livy published by him in 1505. It is addressed to the Emperor Maximilian, and reads as follows:

“May your Majesty deign to accept this book which was printed at Mayence, the town in which the admirable art of typography was invented, in the year 1450, by John Gutenberg, and afterwards brought to perfection at the expense, and by the labour, of John Fust and Peter Schöffer.”

It would not belong to the plan of this historical sketch to give in detail a record of the successive concerns which carried on throughout Germany, with increasing rapidity and with undertakings of ever widening importance, the business of printing and publishing. I propose merely to present the records of a few of the earlier concerns, and to make such reference to typical firms of later generations as may give an impression of the gradual development

of the book-trade, and as may serve also as examples from which to judge of the development of the idea of the literary property in Germany, and the varying positions taken under the enactments and other governmental measures in regard to such property.

The books printed during the first half-century were, as we shall note, almost exclusively reissues of ecclesiastical or pagan classics, and apart from such original work as may have been put into introductions or notes, did not call for the labour of contemporary authors. Among the earlier of original German publications is to be classed a German grammar entitled Die Leyenschul, printed by Peter Jordan in Mayence in 1531. This grammar, which remained for a considerable time an authority on its subject, does not bear the name of the author or editor.

Another of the earlier original works for the sale of which the author may have secured some compensation was the Astronomie of Joh. Stöffler, which was printed in Ottenheim in 1513.

One of the more important of the earlier publishing concerns of Mayence was that of Franz Behem, who printed in the ten years succeeding 1539 an important series of theological works. With the close of Behem’s business in 1552, Mayence appears to have lost its relative importance in connection with the work of printing and publishing.

In Strasburg, which had contested with Mayence the prestige of being the actual birthplace of the printing-press, important publishing undertakings were carried on from a very early date, and for a number of years the city of Basel alone could compete with Strasburg in the number and importance of the books issued from its presses. The two publishing concerns whose individual enterprises and whose rivalry with each other did so much to bring Strasburg into importance as a factor in the German book-trade, were those of Johann Mentel and of Heinrich Eggestein. Mentel’s first publications were a Latin Bible in two folio volumes, which was the first Bible printed in the smaller Gothic type; an edition of De Doctrina Christiana of S. Augustine; an edition of the Summa of Thomas Aquinas; an edition of the Bible in German, which appeared in 1466;

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