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So Good 100 Recipes from My Kitchen to Yours Richard Blais
For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to trade.permissions@hmhco.com or to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 3 Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, New York 10016. hmhco.com
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Thiessen, Tiffani, 1974– author. | Holtzman, Rachel, author. Title: Pull up a chair : recipes from my family to yours / Tiffani Thiessen with Rachel Holtzman. Description: Boston : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2018. | Includes index. Identifiers: LCCN 2018001643 (print) | LCCN 2017059617 (ebook) | ISBN 9781328710390 (ebook) | ISBN 9781328710307 (paper over board)
LC record available at https://lccn loc gov/2018001643
Cover and book design by Shubhani Sarkar, sarkardesignstudio com v1 0718
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
RISE AND SHINE
LUNCHING AND MIDDAY MUNCHING
DINNER (AT TIFFANI’S)
TIPPLES AND PARTY NIBBLES
LET THEM EAT CAKE (AND PIE AND COOKIES AND BROWNIES AND . . . )
PICTURE-PERFECT PARTIES
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INDEX ABOUT THE AUTHOR CONNECT WITH HMH
INTRODUCTION
If your house is anything like mine, then you don’t need me to tell you that we don’t get together the way we used to. Meals if you can call them that! are eaten on the run; we text more than we talk; and connecting with our families for more than 10 minutes between school, work, appointments, lessons, housework, and homework is not always a reality. Sure, I might look all glammed up and pulled together on TV, but you better believe that there are days when putting on real pants is a major victory. Now that I have two kids of my own, I understand more than ever just how hard it is to get food on the table and to spend quality time together, not to mention with our loved ones and friends, too. Where did we all go?!
Growing up, my dad worked two jobs, and my mom was home with me and my two brothers, working her butt off raising us. We didn’t have a lot of money, and we definitely didn’t have a lot of time together, but we always had family dinner. I remember walking into the house after school, and it would smell like supper. I’d get a whiff of tomato sauce and think, Dad’s favorite!Or smell beef stroganoff and think, Ugh, no thanks. (By the way, I’ve made it so much better with wild mushrooms, a splash of brandy, and creamy polenta . . . sorry, Mom.) But no matter what was on the table, it was an opportunity for us all to take a moment, feel seen and heard, and enjoy each other’s company, even if just for a moment before we all scattered again.
I’ve tried to keep that come-together spirit alive in my own home. Okay, so maybe it’s not every night my husband has definitely been known to sneak my daughter out to McDonald’s so I can have a few quiet moments with my toddler son (no judgment, please!)—and it’s definitely not all perfectly pressed napkins and elaborate composed dishes every time I want to get people together. (Hello, DIY Pizza Party.) It’s whatever we can make happen a few times a week so we can come back together again as a family, or with friends, neighbors, or whoever else happens to be in our house and with an appetite. Pullup a chair, we say.
It’s the simplest sentiment, but it means so much. It’s not just sitting down and eating; it’s about reconnecting with the things that make us all so much happier. It’s about laughter and joy and conversation. It’s no coincidence that #PullUpAChair became the hashtag for my Cooking
Channel show, Dinner atTiffani’s; and it seemed like a natural fit as the title for this book. After all, these two projects were born from the same idea: Offer delicious, relatable food that any home cook could make (there was no culinary school for this gal!), throw in some fun ideas for celebrations and gatherings, and serve up inspiration for getting the people you love around a table, whether it’s over an unfussy weekday supper of Not-Your-Mama’s Turkey Meat Loaf, a sunny-day picnic with Fried Chicken with Pickle & Potato Salad, or a lazy morning with Poached Egg Toasts with Kale. Oh yeah, and add a heaping side of silly —because no one should take food too seriously.
Sure, the guests on my show might be fancy-pants celebrities, but guess what? It doesn’t get more real than people shoving delicious food in their faces. And I’m all about keeping things real. My love for cooking comes from the most honest, genuine place: watching my mom, aunt, and grandmother in the kitchen. Growing up, you could usually find me hanging out with them, helping make things like my mom’s famous Cream Cheese Pie (the recipe for which this book would not be complete without). And ladies were the ones taking the lead on the grill during BBQ season. (I thought marrying a Texan would change that for me, but not so much!) These incredible women not only taught me how
to put great flavors together, but also instilled in me how special it is to share a homemade meal, no matter how humble. I realized that if I could bring people joy doing simple things like cooking up a Roasted Chicken Potpie, delivering a parcel of parchment-wrapped Sea Salt Chocolate Chip Cookies to a new neighbor, or hosting a Backyard CampOut I could bring a little more of the good stuff into people’s lives. And better yet, I could share what I learned with anyone else who wanted to do it too. PullUp a Chair is all about the little touches that go such a long way, from getting a pot of Four-Bean Chili on the stove with a spread of (store-bought) toppings, to giving everyone a section of the newspaper at breakfast. (There’s nothing like the cartoons or a crossword puzzle challenge to get your kids to sit at the table!) Or better yet, creating something handmade a detail I always like to include—such as handwritten place cards or a hanging chalkboard with the meal’s menu.
The best part? It doesn’t take that much time at least not with a little advanced planning. And have I mentioned that I’m a master planner? As a little girl, whenever my family was going on a trip, I would start packing and planning weeks in advance. What can I say? I was thatkid. And since I started modeling and acting at eight years old, that planning and preparation came in handy. You had to know your lines, hit your marks, and make your flights. So I planned. I thrived on preparation and being ready. I realized that every little bit I could do ahead of time would allow me—and those around me—to better experience the process. The same goes for getting dinner on the table. Whether it’s hosting a group of twenty for an elegant holiday feast or four for Tuesday-night dinner, the same rules apply: The more you can do ahead of time, the more you can enjoy yourself. And the more your guests can enjoy themselves too—there’s no bigger party downer than a stressed-out host!
That’s why, when it comes to cooking and hosting, I’m a huge fan of checklists, and I’ve included my go-to version for you to use too. Everything from groceries to prep to sending my husband out for the ice to getting the kids (and myself!) dressed to taking photographs of my gorgeous spread goes on the list. I’ve also included some of my favorite ideas for get-togethers, from a Mexi-Cali Fiesta to a classic Lobster Boil (or “Brady Boil,” as I call it, since my husband is usually first in line to
throw on a bib and hunker down). I’ll help you think about things like décor and presentation, and recommend dishes from this book that come together to make the perfect menu. My hope is that it will make it as easy as possible for you to jump right into the party spirit—and see for yourself how a fun, special gathering is never further than a yummy spread (and maybe a cocktail) away.
Still not convinced you have enough time? Or that you’ll enjoy cooking a homemade meal for your family? As I see it, it’s all about making it a priority even if it’s just one night a week and practicing. It’s just like going to the gym; sometimes you don’t want to go, but it’s good for your body, your mind, and your soul. And the more you do it, the easier it gets. I promise I’ll get you there! And while I’m at it, I’ll give you my tips and tricks for the lazy gal’s shortcuts, mixing homemade with store-bought, kid-friendly recipe tweaks, how to dress up a table (without driving yourself nuts), and no-sweat party ideas. You’ll see that you don’t need mad skills in the kitchen to make these recipes, enjoy doing it, and feel proud of getting people around your table.
So come on in, get comfortable, and, well, you know what to do. I’ll save a seat for you.
RISE AND SHINE
Maple-Fennel Bacon
Iwas never much of a breakfast eater as a kid—my mom had to force me to sit down every morning and eat something, whether it was a bowl of cereal or a piece of fruit. As a teen, and even in my early twenties, I just never woke up feeling like I needed or wanted food. Well, that changed! Now it’s one of my favorite meals of the day, namely because it’s a time when I can get everyone around the table—for at least a few minutes—and know I’m sending them all off into the world with big, full bellies. It can be a total juggling act on some mornings, and sometimes it’s not much more than eggs and toast (more later on why we’re pretty much eating eggs every which way we can—hint: my husband has a chicken addiction), but that moment when everyone has a plate of food in front of them feels like one where I can take a deep breath. There’s nothing better than starting the day all together and nourishing our bodies for the busy time ahead.
Breakfast (and brunch) is also one of my favorite meals for entertaining. It’s just begging for a seemingly endless spread heaped full of all kinds of dishes, both sweet and savory—especially great make-aheads like Scones (page 7) or Egg & Sausage Casserole (page 31)—plus fresh juices and fun morning-appropriate cocktails (hello, Bloody Caesar with Maple-Fennel Bacon, page 18). Other meals can be more intimate, but breakfast is for feeding a crowd of family or friends.
Peanut Butter & Banana–Stuffed French Toast with Nutella Drizzle
Raspberry Toaster Tarts
Yogurt Pancakes with Whipped Maple Butter
GREEN SMOOTHIES
There’s no quicker way to get a lot of great vitamins into your body than with a fresh, homemade smoothie. By adding things like creamy, healthy fat–loaded avocado, nutrientpowerhouse spinach, and antioxidant-packed pineapple and mango, you have a meal—or snack—that’s going to go the distance. It’s the ultimate grab ’n’ go. And if your kids are anything like mine and suspicious of all things green, I promise that after a sip, they’ll never know they’ve been veg’d!
You can change up this recipe any way you like—swapping spinach for kale or pineapple and mango for berries. I call for frozen fruit here, but feel free to use fresh. You’ll just want to add a few ice cubes to the mix.
Serves 4 to 6
1½ cups coconut water
1 cup packed fresh spinach leaves
½ cup frozen diced pineapple
½ cup frozen diced mango
2 sprigs fresh mint leaves
¼ avocado, diced Juice of 1 lime
In a blender, combine the coconut water, spinach, pineapple, mango, mint, avocado, and lime juice. Blend until smooth.
Green Smoothies
Scones
SCONES
Scones are one of my favorite things to make with my daughter, Harper. Baking in particular is great to do with kids—there are no sharp objects involved, and they can keep themselves busy with just a handful of flour or, better yet, a big ol’ spoon and bowl so they can mix just like Mommy. It can get a little messy and the scones might not look patisserie-perfect—but there’s no yummier reward for a morning’s work.
Scones are also great because they’re such a versatile canvas for adding just about anything —dried or fresh fruit, chocolate, herbs, and even cheese! That’s why I’ve included a plain base recipe, along with some of my favorite variations such as Blood Orange & Pistachio, BlueberryLemon, and Strawberry-Basil.
These scones are just the thing, whether they’re piled high in a flour sack–lined basket for a serve-yourself breakfast buffet, arranged at each place setting for a polished sit-down brunch, or snapped up right from the baking sheet.
Makes 8 scones
BASE RECIPE:
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ¼ cup sugar
⅓ cup fresh blood orange juice (from about 2 blood oranges)
Dash of pure vanilla extract
¾ cup chopped unsalted pistachios
BLUEBERRY-LEMON
¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from about 1 lemon)
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons)
Dash of pure vanilla extract
1 cup fresh blueberries, washed and dried
STRAWBERRY-BASIL
¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from about 1 lemon)
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil
Dash of pure vanilla extract
1 cup fresh strawberries, hulled and diced
Whipped Maple Butter (page 46), for serving Homemade Jam (page 9), for serving
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, butter, baking powder, and salt. Beat on low speed until the dough reaches a sand-like consistency. Add the milk, increase the speed to medium, and mix just until the dough comes
together; it may still be a bit crumbly. Use a spoon to gently fold in the ingredients from your variation of choice. If the variation includes fresh fruit, add this last because you don’t want to mash it up too much.
Turn out the dough onto a floured surface and, using your hands, flatten the dough into a 12-inch-long, 6-inch-wide rectangle, about 1 inch thick. Divide the dough in half to form 2 squares. Cut an “X” across each square to create 4 triangular pieces, making 8 scones in total.
Place the scones 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 17 to 20 minutes, until golden brown. Let the scones cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes before serving.
Serve warm, with maple butter and jam.
HOMEMADE JAM
If there’s one thing I find myself saying again and again, it’s that nothing store-bought is ever going to be as tasty as homemade. I’m not suggesting that you have to start making every single item you can possibly cook from scratch, but by mastering a few staples, you can totally up your game. Jams are a great example of something that’s super-easy to make and, once you learn the basics, can be an endless palette for all kinds of improvisation—throw in any fruit or combination of fruits and herbs. I love packaging them up in little jars and bringing them as host or hostess gifts, and it’s a great project to do with kids. Just one word to the wise: Don’t leave your jam unattended when it’s cooking! Overcooked jam gets tacky and hard to spread. (Though it’s still completely delicious.)
TOMATO JAM
Makes 2 cups
2 cups cherry tomatoes, stemmed (if necessary), washed, and dried
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from about 1 lemon)
¾ cup sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
In a large saucepan, bring the tomatoes and lemon juice to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring and mashing continuously with a potato masher, for 1 minute. Stir in the sugar and salt and bring the mixture back to a boil. Cook, stirring continuously, until the mixture thickens slightly, begins to look syrupy, and coats the back of a spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. Be careful to not let the mixture get too thick, as it will thicken further while it cools. Remove the pot from the heat, transfer the jam to a heatproof jar, and let cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate. It will keep for up to 2 weeks.
Right to left: Raspberry Jam, Tomato Jam, Fig Jam
RASPBERRY JAM
Makes 2 cups
2 cups fresh raspberries (about 12 ounces), washed and dried 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from about 1 lemon)
2 cups sugar
In a large saucepan, bring the raspberries and lemon juice to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring and mashing continuously with a potato masher, for 1 minute. Stir in the sugar and bring the mixture to a boil once again. Cook, stirring continuously, until the mixture thickens slightly, begins to look syrupy, and coats the back of a spoon, 8 to 10 minutes. Be careful not to let the mixture get too thick, as it will thicken further while it cools. Remove the pot from the heat, transfer the jam to a heatproof jar, and let it cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate. It will keep for up to 2 weeks.
FIG JAM
Makes 2 cups
2 cups black figs, stemmed and quartered (about 12 ounces)
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from about 1 lemon)
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
In a large saucepan, combine the figs, sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring and mashing continuously with a potato masher, for 15 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and cook for another 5 minutes, or until the jam is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Be careful not to let the mixture get too thick, as it will thicken further while it cools. Remove the pot from the heat, transfer the jam to a heatproof jar, and let it cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate. It will keep for up to 2 weeks.
Chocolate Chip–Brown Butter Banana Bread
CHOCOLATE CHIP–BROWN BUTTER BANANA BREAD
I’ve had dozens of versions of banana bread over the years, but this one takes the (breakfast) cake. Greek yogurt and buttermilk give it dense creaminess while cinnamon, ginger, and chocolate chips make it decidedly un-boring. But the key ingredient is butter that’s been browned until it’s nutty and almost caramel in color and aroma. The result is a loaf that’s light enough for breakfast but decadent enough for dessert. Makes one 8-inch square loaf
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup almond flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup sugar
2 large eggs, beaten
⅓ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
¼ cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste (see Note, page 223)
5 ripe bananas: 3 mashed and 2 thinly sliced lengthwise ½ cup semisweet chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan with butter.
Melt the butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Swirl the pan to evenly distribute the butter on the bottom and heat until the foam disappears and the butter turns a light brown color, about 2 minutes, being careful not to let it burn. Pour the brown butter into a large bowl and set aside to cool.
In a separate large bowl, combine the flours, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, and salt. Set aside.
Whisk the sugar, eggs, yogurt, buttermilk, and vanilla bean paste into the cooled brown butter. Use a spoon or spatula to stir in the mashed bananas, followed by the flour mixture. Fold in the chocolate chips.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and top with the sliced bananas. Bake for 55 minutes to 1 hour, until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean. Let the bread stand at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before slicing and serving.
CHIA SEED PUDDING
My romance with this super-simple dish started in Hawaii. I couldn’t believe how rich and creamy it was—like super-decadent oatmeal. And my son can’t get enough of it, which makes this mama very happy. Chia seeds are packed with nutrients, especially fiber and protein, so this is a particularly great breakfast for fueling you throughout the day. Plus, you make it ahead (the chia seeds need time to plump up), which means it can be all packed up and ready to grab in the morning. Or if you’re having company, you can dress it up in pretty glasses or bowls. It’s a great canvas for different flavors, and the toppings are endless— pretty much any fresh or dried fruit would look pretty and taste great. Toasted coconut and dried mango are my go-tos if I want to bring some sunny island vibes to my breakfast table.
Serves 2
1 cup unsweetened full-fat coconut milk
1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste (see Note, page 223)
¼ cup chia seeds
Toasted unsweetened shredded coconut, for garnish Chopped dried mango, for garnish
In a medium bowl, whisk together the coconut milk, yogurt, maple syrup, and vanilla bean paste. Whisk in the chia seeds until combined. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Sprinkle with toasted coconut and dried mango and serve.
Chia Seed Pudding
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Went over to Charleville the other day. Same old reason—to get a bath. The bath house was closed, however, there being no water. Going over you came pretty close to collecting on my insurance. We got a ride on a truck, the driver of which would be a wonder as a tank jockey. After missing a few pedestrians, he ended up by trying to do a Brodie off a bridge. Some German prisoners were ahead of us on the bridge, pushing a field range along. There was a space left about big enough for a baby carriage to squeeze by, and “dauntless Harry,” seeing an opening, tried to see if his truck would fit said opening. It didn’t, and the first thing we knew the camion had crashed through the railing and the front wheels were dangling in space. The drop wasn’t a great distance, but if we had taken the fall no doubt we would have been found with the camion resting on the back of our necks.
KIRKLAND
January 20
D M :
This week has been full of ’most everything from M. P’s. to Colonels.
Today the Inspector-General gave us the once over, only he isn’t a General, just a Colonel. You never saw such a scrubbing, brushing, and general cleaning up, as went on. Our quarters looked like a livery stable when we started in, but at the finish the Board of Health would have presented us with a blue ribbon. Clothes were folded up and placed on bunks, shoes shined to a white heat, faces washed and shaved, nails cleaned, and guns dusted off. At two o’clock the curtain went up. Down to the field we marched where we were to be looked over and to look over. We were all curious to see just what kind of an
army bird an Inspector-General was. Judging from majors and colonels we had seen, we expected someone who would scare us out of seven years of life when he asked a question. However, this colonel was O. K. and for once an inspection was almost a pleasure. After being given the up and down we marched back to camp where we fell out to stand by our beds for a barracks inspection. We stood by our beds, on which were laid out all our A. E. F. possessions. Being in the company office, and being company clerk, I expected to have all sorts of questions fired at me in regard to service records, reports, and all that goes to make the life of a clerk anything but a joy. However, I didn’t have to open my mouth.
The inspector said that the French had spoken very highly of us and our work. In fact the French M. T. C. have said that their American Groupes have done more work, rolled more cars, and kept their camions in better conditions than any French section. That if the French had had the camions that we did, the cars would have been in the junk pile long ago.
Our Groupe commander received the Croix de Guerre last Sunday. He says it’s for the work done by his men at the front when they hauled tanks. It was at the time when Lieutenant Edwards was killed.
I’ve been to Luxembourg. Our Lieutenant gave us his permission and Ford to make the trip. Last Saturday at noon we started out. We got to Luxembourg at seven and three of us went into a hotel to get rooms and see about supper. The other two went out on a hunt for a garage. We got the rooms (you never saw such beds), arranged for supper, and then went out to the corner to wait for the return of the jitney jockeys. We had no sooner started waiting than two M. P.’s (military police) gave us the glad hand. Wanted to know what we were doing and if we had passes.
We told them we were waiting for two boys who had gone to stable a flivver and that our pass was with them. That didn’t seem to please the M. P.’s. (They are always hard to please.) They wanted to know just what our business in Luxembourg was and just what kind of a pass we had. We told them we were in Luxembourg for pleasure only, and that our pass was a red auto pass signed by Major Mallet and countersigned by our Lieutenant. That answer didn’t make the M. P.’s feel any more friendly. Instead they told us in no polite terms to come with them. We went!
The three of us were marched to the city hall where our names, number, and A. E. F. address was taken, everything but finger prints. The room where this third degree took place was no doubt the club room of the Luxembourg police, as three or four of them were scattered about the scenery. (Their uniform is good enough for any general, if brass buttons count.) After getting our pedigree, an M. P. picked up a very businesslike looking key and invited us to come with him. We went. We were taken to a six by four cell which was already inhabited by two other law breakers. Just about this time we woke up to the fact that we were arrested and questions came thick and fast. The questions didn’t get us anywhere, so we asked to see an A. P. M. officer. There wasn’t any but at twelve o’clock we could see the sergeant of the guard in another jail. Good night! One hundred and fifty kilometers—to be pinched!
All the time we were wondering what had become of the other two. In about an hour we heard the door out front open and then heard voices in the club room. It was they! The pass was no good, to be good it needed only a General’s scrawl. The gate opened and in they came.
At twelve o’clock we were pulled out and lined up with the rest of that night’s haul. About twenty of us, I should say. We were then marched to the other side of the river to the railroad station. Through the waiting room and upstairs we were taken. A very heavy door was opened and we were pushed into a room. In this room were gathered the round-up from all the smaller jails. There were about fifty of us, and the room was overflowing. No chairs, bunks or pictures, just a dirty floor and a blank wall. The gathering was a rummage sale.
About six o’clock the corporal of the guard came in. He looked the room over and asked where the five men were who had the French pass. We spoke up and were told to come with him. We went and were told that our pass was no good, that we could go but would have to leave town at once.
Luxembourg, from what I saw of it, is a wonderful city. Street cars, electric lights, cafés, hotels, stores and at least one good-looking girl, were a few of the things we saw.
No doubt you have noticed that each division has some sort of shoulder insignia. Ours is a yellow trumpet on a green background. It is the coat of arms of the Mallet Reserve. If ever you see on the left sleeve right where it joins the shoulder the yellow trumpet on the green background, you will know that the Mallet Reserve is on its way.
KIRKLAND
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
1. Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
2. Retained spelling in the cartoon captions.
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