Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2018

Page 21

ANTI-AGEING

Patented molecule

guards skin from stress

Are you looking for a cosmetics active ingredient that provides skin with relief from day to day stresses? Bel-Even from DSM sustainably rebalances the skin’s own stress management system.

W

facial skin elasticity significantly improved by 15.7 percent versus a placebo. Bel-Even helps to increase skin density after four and 12 weeks use. The higher skin density is a result of increased

hether its job related,

protein content

relationship conflicts,

(mostly collagen) in the dermis.

or a busy lifestyle, stress has become a

patented a new active ingredient

constant part of our lives. Skin naturally responds to periods of stress with the formation of more cortisol through 11ß-HSD1enzyme. This release of cortisol, the so called stress hormone, is a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, cortisol can turn into an enemy of the skin if it remains in excess over a long period of time.

weeks of application,

that inhibits in vitro 11ß-HSD1. It was specifically developed for skin care

DID YOU KNOW?

applications using a rational design approach. BelEven rebalances the negative, long term

Stress can cause flare ups and effects of stress on skin worsen pre-existing conditions and visibly reduces such as eczema and psoriasis. When people are stressed, a flood of the signs of a stressful hormone cortisol can tank their lifestyle for fuller, immune system, taking toll on suppler looking skin with their skin and Zen. Source: improved elasticity and www.allure.com barrier function.

The active was also proven to protect skin during a stress test. Using 10 μM of Bel-Even active, prevented UV-induced collagen III damage by inhibiting 11ß-HSD1 enzyme In the study, stress was defined as change of weather conditions to cool and dry from October to December in Switzerland. TEWL of facial skin increased due to seasonal stress in the placebo group. An increase in TEWL means the skin barrier becomes weaker. In the Bel-Even group TEWL remained low and the skin barrier was stable. The skin was better protected against external stress factors.

Beyond using stress coping techniques, consumers are interested

Proven effective

in skin care treatments and products

The effects of one percent Bel-Even

ingredients from DSM are available in South

that work to both help the skin deal with

were tested on ageing parameters and

Africa from Chempure. •

stress and reverse any negative effects.

barrier stability during a three month,

These include skin thinning, loss of

placebo controlled study on 30 female

elasticity and barrier weakening.

subjects aged between 50 and 65.

With Bel-Even (Biphenyl Azepanyl Methanone), DSM has designed and

Results showed the active improves skin elasticity and density; after 12

Bel-Even and other actives and functional

Chempure – www.chempure.co.za DSM – www.dsm.com/personal-care

P C Review | MAY 2018 |

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2018 by New Media B2B - Issuu