Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review February 2020

Page 26

SUN CARE

Boost your SPF performance Scientific studies have proven that wearing sun protection products on a regular basis can protect skin against cancer. But how do formulators resolve formulation challenges to meet the growing demand for high SPF (>30) in daily-wear skin care products and colour cosmetics?

A

ccording to Solvay, the demand for sun care products with a higher SPF is as a direct result of

consumers increased awareness of the ageing effects of sun exposure. Consumers also want these higher SPF products at more affordable prices and with improved sensorial

Table 1: Solvay Formulation SC-16-065

Ingredient Isohexadecane

4.0

Ethylhexyl Cocoate

6.0

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

UV-B

6.0

Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane**

UV-B

4.0

Phenylbenzimidazoyl Sulfonate (30% active)

UV-B

10.0

benefits, such as non-sticky, light in

Rheomer SC-Plus

6.0

texture and easy to apply.

Water

g.s.

Concerns surrounding the safety of ingredients are also growing

Total UV Filters Active

13

with formulators seeking to use less

Calculated/Exp SPF

18

or none at all of the ingredients

In vivo SPF***

46

considered controversial. Rheomer SC-Plus (INCI Acrylates/

Rheomer SC-Plus is a patented polymer providing excellent SPF boosting properties

Sun care product formulation with organic UV Filters

Beheneth-25 Methacrylate

properties when formulated with

elevated rheology benefits. In vivo

Copolymer) is a patented polymer

organic, or a combination of organic

studies indicate an SPF increase of as

providing excellent SPF boosting

and inorganic UV filters. It also has

much as 2.5 times of the estimated SPF value, enabling the formulation of high SPF products with a lower dosage of sunscreen actives. Rheomer SC-Plus from Solvay Polymers and Chemicals South Africa exhibits excellent SPF boosting performance, as shown in Figure 1. This polymer works exceptionally well

Key benefits of Rheomer SC-Plus • SPF boosting of up to 155%** • excellent suspension ability as it stabilises o/w systems containing particles • outstanding emulsification and thickening in o/w emulsions • good electrolyte tolerance as it stabilises electrolyte containing o/w formulations • improved sensory benefits such as a smooth, non-tacky feel after dry down • supplied in liquid form for ease of use during processing • cold-processable, which saves energy during processing.

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| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review


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