HAIR CARE Figure 2: By strengthening the protein matrix, Gluadin Kera-P LM leads to a 60 percent higher denaturation temperature
treated with HB-DE-179-1 conditioner, with or without one percent protein hydrolysate. Gluadin Kera-P LM reduced breakage by 20 percent, while Nutrilan Keratin LM reduced breakage by 50 percent – demonstrating that LM protein hydrolysates make hair more resistant to mechanical stress (see Figure 3). The effect of the micro-proteins on combability was measured in combing tests on dry hair after a repetitive treatment (five times). Virgin Caucasian hair was washed five times with HB-DE-173-12 shampoo with or without one percent protein hydrolysate, and then dried. Gluadin Kera-P LM reduced combing work by 15 percent and Nutrilan Keratin LM by 20 percent. These results conclude that Nutrilan Keratin LM stabilises the α-helical protein, DSC enthalpy results correlate with the
break. To evaluate the micro-proteins’
with improved structural rigidity and hair
integrity of the α-helical protein structure of
strengthening efficacy, ultra-bleached
toughness, whereas Gluadin Kera-P LM
the hair, which is where Nutrilan Keratin LM
strands of Caucasian hair were treated
restores the non-helical protein filling up
demonstrates the better results. This could
with five percent protein hydrolysate versus
the matrix.
be explained using hair strengthening and
a placebo for 24 hours. With Nutrilan
its integrity.
Keratin LM, toughness increased by almost
Protection of the cuticle
20 percent.
During oxidative processes such as
Strengthening the locks
The proteins’ effect on hair breakage was
bleaching, colouring and exposure to
The durability of hair can be measured
measured in gravimetric combing tests.
sunlight, copper catalyses the formation of
by extending single hair fibres until they
Medium-bleached Caucasian hair was
free radicals that cause protein degradation
34
| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review