HAIR CARE
Table 1: Cold process hair mask formulation
Phase A
B
Ingredient
INCI
Wt%
Water
Aqua
92.2
Polyquaternium-39
Polyquaternium-39
1
Dermol IPP / Lexol IPP MB
Isopropyl Palmitate
3
PE 91
Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerine
1
AECI FlowCat 37
Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Trideceth-6
3
Method: Add phase A ingredients in the correct order and mix after each addition. Under high stirring, add phase B and maintain agitation for 15 minutes
actives like polyquaternium-39 as per the example in Table 1. These ingredients may also be used to develop conditioners as well as semi-permanent hair colour creams. Polyquaterniums are very large molecules that periodically have negative charged sites along the molecule, inherently making them cationic conditioning polymers. Cationic charge is a trait that is shared among many hair care conditioning agents, due to the fact that the hair, especially damaged hair, has a negative charge, allowing the cationic polymers to stick to it, typically smoothing the shaft and making it easier to comb and manage.
thicken, emolliate and condition all in one. AECI
raw materials needed and in the carbon
FlowCat 37 is an example of a four-in-one type
footprint – it is easy to understand why
of ingredient. The benefits and versatility of this
these products are so appealing to hair
consumer is dictated by the length, shape and
ingredient are shown in the formulation in Table 1.
mask brands and manufacturers.
complexity of the polyquaternium molecule, of which many variations exist. At AECI
Formulations such as this one can be as simple as three to five ingredients in total (including water and a preservative). This type of technology makes particular
The level of condition required by the
A CLOSER LOOK AT CONDITIONING POLYMERS
Specialty Chemicals, we offer a wide range of
When examining the INCI name of the
polyquaternium 6, 7, 10, 11, 22, 37, 39 and 67. •
sense for hair masks, which are often sold
material, it is clear that it already contains
in small volume sachets. When you consider
polyquaternium-37 for conditioning. Yet the
the elimination of the heating step and the
level of conditioning can be tweaked even more
reduction in processing time, number of
by including high, medium or low conditioning
polyquaterniums, including but not limited to
AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com or Thureya.Sarlie@aeciworld.com
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 1 2021
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