Neuw Denim Brand Bible 2016

This book is not for commercial use.

Internal use only.

21st C E N T U R Y

D E N I M

We love denim culture. We create modern jeans for today, for the best times of your life.

Jeans to be worn from dusk til dawn. Jeans to be worn as the world changes around you and you change the world. Jeans for living hard, fast and strong. Jeans to be worn in the moments where passion meets daring and the outcome is creating something new.

Photographer: Cameron McCool (LA)

“The name “Neuw” is inspired by the place on Nieuwlandstraat in Brussels where I began to alter denim pieces from my vintage collection and the idea to create a modern denim brand was born” - Pär Lundqvist, co-founder

N I E U W L A N D S T R A AT

We collect jeans – the best fits, fabrics and finishes from the last 100 years. Then referencing the traditions of pattern making and tailoring we re-cut the jeans and re-develop the fabrics to be right for now. Respect the heritage; embrace the future.

Traditional attention to detail, Modern Brand.

We call it NEUW DENIM

The Archive - 3,000+ pairs of vintage jeans collected by Par are the inspiration behind our denim ranges

O U R

H E R I T A G E

Running a denim brand is like being in a band.

The best bands are the ones that have a burning passion for roots music and the rebellion, aesthetic and lifestyle connected to it. They take us and the music to new places by experimenting and playing with the original raw sounds and rhythm.

We create our jeans like our favourite bands create their music.

MUSIC & NOISE

ID’s NEUW DENIM

NEUW RING

The Neuw ring which hangs from the front right belt loop of every pair of Neuw jeans is in memory of the beautiful fob watch given to Par by his grandfather. Par would keep this watch in the front pocket of his favorite jeans secured by a chain to the belt loop. One drunken evening in Stockholm the watch met its demise and all that remained was the fastening ring which Par kept as a memento, liking the look and ultimately fastening one to every pair of Neuw jeans.

REPAIR STITCH VINTAGE REVISION DART

The back hem dart is a symbol of the roots of Neuw and how everything started for us. We retain the essence & soul of the historical denim element but create a style that is modern and progressive today.

Premium Denim Reinvented.

Neuw is a modern brand inspired by vintage denim and the culture around denim. For us, a traditional deck stitch didn’t feel right. When we looked through Par’s collection of jeans, worn until they have almost disintegrated, many had personal repair stitches where his wallet had broken through the back right pocket. So the Neuw repair stitch became our signature, ‘scribbled,’ you could say, on every pair of Neuw jeans.

RING DETAIL The Mayhem collection has strong military undertones.

Scandinavian design has always been deeply rooted in the purposeful and utilitarian. We have applied our iconic watch ring in ways inspired by internal and external fastening loops and adjustment tabs on vintage military jackets. Utilitarian, minimal and uniquely Neuw.

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Music, Style and Modern Life.

Neuw Denim has created a range drawing inspiration from music, art and social history for the modern denim guy. It’s been curated with great appreciation for denim craft and culture.

The range brings with it an understanding and recognition of modern life because at the end of the day we do this for the Neuw guy.

He is driven. He’s lives in denim. He is modern.

Everything he does is driven by purpose.

Everything he owns was created with purpose.

So at Neuw we obsess over quality, history, culture, durability and style. We believe that confidence is key to success and a good pair of jeans can be the foundation of a confident and personal modern style.

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FW16 HOMEGROWN VENTURE BRUISED NOT BROKEN 80’s

BLACK

SURFACE INDIGO ARCHIVE

We have always been fascinated with the Japanese ‘Wabi-Sabi’ aesthetic. It is centered on the appreciation of objects with character and soul reflected by patina, wear-patterns and visible repairs. This love for imperfection runs right through the Neuw brand.

We treat jeans as if they were our children. We don’t give up on them. If they fall apart, we repair them.

If the silhouette falls out of fashion we revise and adapt. After many years of wear and tear they are full of patchwork, hand stitches, revision seams and exposed, raw edges. Some are still indigo, some have been over-dyed black. They are all full of character and personality. Based on these well loved and cared for garments we have designed a modern capsule range by the name ‘Home Grown.’

HOMEGROWN

HOMEGROWN * Par’s hand repaired Homegrown inspiration jeans.

HOMEGROWN * Par’s hand repaired Homegrown inspiration jeans.

N E U W

D E N I M

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COLLECTION

With inspiration from work-wear and military garments we have developed shades of military, khaki, worker blue and black. All on black weft fabrics which gives every shade depth and a modern look. The fabrics are all constructed with 3 ply high twist cotton warp yarns and a mixed composition black weft. The yarns are woven in to a high density construction which creates luxurious hand feel and ultimate comfort.

VENTURE

Lou Slim in Raw Selvedge Military Mac

N E U W

D E N I M

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COLLECTION

We love denim. The craft, the quality and the culture. Due to the legendary indigo dye, denim is able to develop character and adapt to it’s surroundings. Denim scars and bleeds just like us. It wears our imperfections with pride. Wear and tear patterns are like a personal statement of character, saying: ‘I’ve been through a lot of things, and here I am; I am bruised, but I am not broken.’

The ability to wear bruises with pride have made denim the key item of the uniform of just about every sub culture, youth movement and emerging music scene.

This blend of craft, social history, music and art is what we refer to as Denim Culture. We have created a range of pure indigo dyed jeans with heavy wear, scars and bruises inspired by the sub cultures, artists and musicians that once made us fall in love with this king of all garments. The Neuw guy wears these expressive jeans with sharp jackets, crisp tees and smart shirts.

BRUISED NOT BROKEN

Boss Straight Crop in Eastern Block Worker Jacket in French Blue

80‘s BLACK

80‘s BLACK In the wake of the rapidly aging punk scene, a new wave of bands started to emerge all around the world in the late 70’s and early 80’s.

They were categorized as post punk, a very loose term for bands with independent attitude, style and noisy music way left of the manicured and glitzy mainstream. For this part of the range we focused on some of the bands from this scene that have been crucial in the formation of our taste in music and stylistic sensibilities.

They wore black, heavily worn denim matched back with buttoned up shirts, leather jackets, raw edge knits and washed t-shirts. The jeans are made of premium black yarn dyed fabrics that have been heavily washed, beaten distressed and bleached.

N E U W

D E N I M

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COLLECTION

Iggy Crop in Clasic Chop New York Jacket

Lou Slim in Pure Black Berlin Jacket

Raw edge slim cut knit inspired by the style of John ‘Johnny Rotten’ Lydon. Minimal styling with punk attitude have made this style a Neuw classic.

Iggy Skinny in Union Johnny Knit

Iggy Skinny in Union Johnny Knit

The Neuw guy is driven and entrepreneurial. He needs jeans that are sharp enough to fit in at work, business meetings, lectures or band practices.

They also need to have enough character to make him look good at the gallery openings, gigs and bars where he hangs out after dusk. Coated and shiny pants do not appeal to him.

Therefore, We have developed a range of sharp, premium denim of substantial weight with true denim character. Slightly washed back to bring out textures inspired by early 20th century work wear fabrics. Our modern version is infused with highest quality stretch yarns to create ultimate, long lasting comfort and timeless denim style.

SURFACE

Lou Slim in Biker Wash Sharp Oxford Shirt

N E U W

D E N I M

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COLLECTION

A slim cut tailored pant.

Rude Boy style originated in Jamaica where musicians involved in the Ska scene dressed in classic menswear paired back with slim cut, cropped tailored pants. As many young Jamaicans moved to the United Kingdom in the 60’s and 70’s, the Rude Boy look started to spread. The look and style influenced the ‘skinheads’, ‘suedeheads’ and mods, who mixed rude boy with military, work-wear and denim. The N E U W Rude Boy Pant comes in a selection of premium wool and cotton fabrics.

RUDE BOY PANT

Straight relaxed tailored pant.

This image of the hard-core legend Henry Rollins is‌special.

It’s not really something we have crated the fit around. But, the clash of refined tailored pant matched back with washed out tees and beaten denim jackets really appeals to us. So, the image felt like a relevant reference. The Straight Edge Pant is made from a selection of premium wool melange and cotton twill. Styled with a cropped in-leg to show a bit of ankle.

STRAIGHT EDGE PANT

Straight Edge Pant in Pitch Black Satin Bomber

INDIGO ARCHIVES This part of the range is pretty straight forward; we added some more jeans to our extensive archive of vintage denim. Some of them we like so much that we decided to re-incarnate them as modern jeans. We used premium denim fabrications suitable for modern silhouettes. Each fabric has been made with high quality stretch fibers running through the weft which creates modern comfort as well as fit and shape retention.

The washes have been hand crafted using our sustainability concept ‘ Air Wash’

N E U W

D E N I M

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COLLECTION

Hell Skinny in Sixteen Denim Jacket in Beaten

Iggy Crop in Classic Chop New York Jacket

Iggy Skinny in Harajuku Airwash Pea Coat in Indigo Wool

NE UW

DENIM

FITS

Hell Skinny in Black

MENS

HELL

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FITS

SKINNY

MENS

IGGY

SKINNY

Regular waist, skinny fit, skinny leg

Regular waist, skinny fit, skinny as hell leg

A heroin skinny stretch jean based on the jeans that Richard Hell, inventor of Punk style wore on the cover of ‘Blank Generation.’

A skinny, tapered stretch jean inspired by the jean worn by Iggy Pop on the cover of his 1977’s album ‘The Idiot.’

RISE KNEE HEM

RISE KNEE HEM

9 3/4” 13 3/4” 12 1/4”

10” 15” 12 1/2”

LOU

SLIM

Regular waist, regular fit, slim leg

RAY

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FITS

TAPERED

Loose waist, slim fit, tapered leg

BOSS

REGULAR

Regular waist, regular fit, straight leg

A regular fit, with tapered leg and slim silhouette. Created from the style worn by Lou Reed while recording The Velvet Underground’s epic debut album in Scepter Studios, NYC, 1966.

Ray is a modern tapered slim jean, with square top block and a longer vintage rise. The fit Ray is inspired by and named after Raymond who taught Par how to tailor vintage jeans.

This new regular straight fit is based on the very fit that made denim legendary. Featured in classic rebel movies “The Wild One’ and ‘Rebel Without A Cause’ made it a symbol of youth, rebellion and freedom.

RISE KNEE HEM

RISE KNEE HEM

Rise Knee Hem

10 1/4” 15 3/4” 13 1/2”

11 1/4” 15 1/3” 13”

10 1/2” 16 1/2” 14 1/4”

NEUW WOMAN Patti Smith represents the birth of the liberated, modern woman. As an artist, visionary and style icon she is the muse of the Neuw woman. Confidently she bent the traditional rules of gender by wearing work-wear rigid denim, leather jackets and t-shirts. Her look was full of feminine sex appeal and has inspired denim disciples around the world.

From gallery opening to dive bar with her friends, the Neuw woman wears denim, the uniform of the understated. She is a modern woman. She travels the world, drinks black coffee, works in the city, stays up late, inspires those around her and finds passion in her creative pursuits.

Her style is timeless. A look of paired back luxury that balances her Swedish sensibilities with an Parisian edge.

She values premium fabrications, quality craftsmanship and above all enduring style.

She is Neuw.

“When you’re doing something that challenges the status quo you will be met with a lot of shit.”

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D E N I M

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COLLECTION

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RANGE

INSPIRATION

As we started to build the mood boards around this range the Cure was playing in the back ground.

As the range started to take form we found a lot of similarities in what was created to the diverse nature of The Cure’s music. So, we picked out a few of our favourite Cure songs and albums and let them guide us in the creation of a tight range of denim capsules relevant to the life of the Neuw woman in 2016.

Denim Jacket in Beaten

Marilyn Skinny in Black Silk Berlin Jacket Right: Tokyo Sherpa

Lexi Slim Straight in Cure Blue Sharp Oxford Shirt

Lexi Slim Straight in Stoney Blue Satin Bomber

Razor Skinny in Monday Blue Frenchie Tee

Vintage Skinny in Night Indigo Rock n Roll Knit

Piper Straight in Black Silk New York Jacket

WOMENS FITS

RAZOR Low rise skinny fit

Rise Knee Hem Inleg.(S) Inleg.(R)

73/4 113/4 91/2 283/4 313/4

VINTAGE Mid rise skinny fit

Rise Knee Hem Inleg.(S) Inleg.(R)

91/2 113/4 93/4 281/4 313/4

MARILYN High rise skinny fit

Rise Knee Hem Inleg.(S) Inleg.(R)

11 12 93/4 283/4 313/4

WOMENS FITS

WOMENS FITS

PIPER

LEXI

MACY

JANE

Mid rise, cropped straight leg

Low rise, slim fit flare

Rise Knee Hem Inleg

Rise Knee Hem Inleg

Rise Knee Hem Inleg

Rise Knee Hem Inleg

Rise Knee Hem Inleg.(R) Inleg.(L)

Mid rise, stretch slim straight leg

91/2 133/4 133/4 353/4

Mid rise, rigid, slim straight leg

101/4 141/2 131/4 281/4

High rise, rigid, regular straight leg

113/4 153/4 15 281/4

91/2 121/2 15 263/4

KICK

73/4 153/4 211/4 333/4 353/4

PARIS

High rise, wide cropped leg

Rise Knee Hem Inleg

113/4 231/2 231/2 241/2

CRAFT CULTURE PURPOSE

W.W.P WEAR WITH PURPOSE

Wear With Purpose brings to mind the sentiment of intent, a mission to pursue a passion and follow a dream. Our purpose drives our actions and propels us through the journey of life. Not so much a certain look but a certain attitude and one that will determine our legacy.

NEUW x ARTO SAARI LOS

ANGELES

W.W.P WEAR WITH PURPOSE

33 Hours in Berlin

NEUW DENIM FORM CAMPAIGN AUS 13 O Z P E R F O R M A N C E D E N I M

AUSTRALIA

| F O R M C A M P A I G N MAY 2016

Jeans. We begin with a raw cloth, a fabric made from a complex tangle of carefully crafted yarn.

Jeans are durable for this reason. Their purpose is to wear the scars and repairs of our journeys.

Jeans tell the tale of the places we have been, the songs we have listened to, the people we have met and the lives we have lived.

So you could say jeans are purpose built. Jeans are the uniform of the rebel. The staple of those who chose a life less ordinary. A part of every sub culture, counter culture and youth movement, jeans symbolize the spirit of purpose. Wear With Purpose tells the story of the people who wear them.

This year in AUSTRALIA we collaborated with Melbourne based motorcycle workshop, the Kustom Kommune to tell the story of FORM (13OZ Performance Denim) We captured 4 vignettes of Modern Day Rebels wearing the FORM range of jeans, enabling them to live a life less ordinary.

1. Ted Hallam surfs a Harley Davidson Shovelhead in Macedon Victoria wearing Neuw FORM jeans and Berlin Jacket in Black Leather 2. Lucas rides a something fixie through fire wearing Neuw FORM jeans 3. Miki M renegade Parkour enthusiast and all round dare devil leaps from the roof of Melbourne’s iconic Herald Sun tower at 6pm EST wearing Neuw FORM 4. Brayden B finds his form under water wearing FORM 13oz Performance denim.

W.W.P WEAR WITH PURPOSE

W.W.P WEAR WITH PURPOSE

MISO x NEUW Wear With Purpose explores the internal mechanism behind the creative act. We find a connection with the soul of the artist. We find a deeper meaning in their work, a truer understanding of its reason for being. Here we have collaborated with Melbourne artist MISO. Presenting a series of acrylic paintings on leather.

“As a tattooist, without realising, I painted the jackets like contoured skin, with designs I’ve been dreaming of applying to whole bodies, covering backs and shoulders, poking out from under ribs and arms, travelling across”

PEPAMACK x NEUW This season we introduced our first female collaboration in the Wear With Purpose series.

We connected with Neuw denim lover and leading Australian blogger and Creative Director Pepamack to capture a day in her life.

A true denim girl and a major influencer of Australian style, we asked her to pick out her favourite Neuw jeans and give us her take on how to style them.

PEPAMACK x NEUW

2 1 st C E N T U R Y D E N I M

NEUW AIR WASH

C

an you recall that fresh and pleasant smell in the air right after a thunderstorm? It’s due to ozone and that’s what we’ve used for all washes in our ‘Air Wash’ series. zone (O3) is a natural and very powerful oxidizing, cleansing and bleaching agent. When used in laundry washing, ozone allows for a

O

shorter wash cycle resulting in significant energy and water savings. n top of this ozone does not remain in the water after treatment. Ozone is totally biodegradable and when it completes its function, it reverts rapidly back to Oxygen (O2), leaving no chemical residues behind.

O

DENIM GLOSSARY Neuw Denim

ABRASION Dry processors (laundries) try to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface of the fabric causing abrasion.

CARDING The industrial yarn preparation process where raw cotton is separated, opened, cleaned and made into sliver.

ACRYLIC Synthetic fibre that is made with just the right combination of coal, air, water, petroleum and limestone. The fibre has fair affinity to dye, and pills easily.

CELLULOSIC FIBRES The chemical processing of short cotton fibres, linters, or wood pulp produce fibres like rayon, acetate, and triacetate. Other materials modified to produce fibres include protein, glass, metals, and rubber.

BARTACK A sewing procedure that reinforces stress points on jeans, usually front flies, pocket openings and crotch joins of inseams. Thankfully there is a bartack machine.

BEDFORD CORD A fabric weave with ribs down the length of the fabric. The ribs can be any width. Looks like an uncut unbrushed corduroy without a velvet feeling.

BLEACH Laundries use this chemical to make denim jeans fade. Liquid bleach is usually an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite, and dry powdered bleaches contain chloride of lime (calcium hypochlorite). Because chlorine destroys silk and wool, commercial hypochlorite bleaches should never be used on these fibres.

BROKEN TWILL A denim fabric weave first used by Wrangler in 1964 in their jeans style 13MWZ. The diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally interrupted to form a random design. Used prominently in the 1980’s by designer jeans brands like Sasson, Jordache and Calvin Klein with their dark prewash jeans and of course originally made famous by Wrangler.

BULL DENIM A 3×1 twill weave piece dyed fabric, made from coarse yarns. Weights can vary from 9 ozs/sq yard up to the standard 14 ozs/sq yard. It’s basically a denim without indigo!

CANVAS The simplest weave in textiles is a plain weave (1×1) where the filling yarn is passed over and under individual warp yarns. Using thick yarns, makes the fabric into a canvas.

CHAMBRAY A plain weave fabric, with a single but different warp and weft color. In jeanswear, fabric mills usually use a medium depth indigo warp color and natural (unbleached) weft.

CHINO The name came from both the trouser style worn

by British Colonial troops in the 1800’s and the fabric used for the fabric. Today a cotton trouser is considered as a chino and the fabric would be considered as a tightly woven 2 ply right hand 3×1 combed cotton twill.

CONVENTIONAL COTTON Most popular (commercial) system for growing cotton by feeding plants heavy dosages of synthetic fertilisers, and eliminating competing species for maximum yields. Using toxic pesticides (chemical herbicides, insecticides and defoliants) the process of providing conventional cotton is dangerous to farmers, people who live near farms, as well as our environment.

CORDUROY The French originally called this this lush velvety fabric “Cord Du Roi”, cord of the King. The fabric is ribbed throughout the length and the ribs are cut and sheared so that a smooth velvety surface appears. Fourteen wale corduroy was one of the most important jeans fabrics in the 1960’s and 1970’s when jeans became universal.

The fabric has a rounded plush velvet type cord, rib, or wale surface formed by cutting the pile.

The fabric is woven by having one warp and two fillings. After weaving the back of the fabric is coated with glue, and the ribs are cut open down the centre. Once the glue is removed from the face, the fabric is finished by a series of brushings, waxings, and singeings. When the pile is made from extra fillings rather than from extra warp yarn, the fabric is called velveteen.

CORE SPUN YARN A yarn in which a base yarn is completely wrapped by a second yarn.

DRAWING/DRAFTING The industrial process where slivers are pulled out after carding and/or combing.

COTTON Cotton, genus Gossypium, one of the world’s most important crops, produces white fibrous balls that are manufactured into a highly versatile textile. The plant has white flowers, which turn purple about two days after blooming, and large, divided leaves. Length of fibre ranges from 3/8’’ to 2’’ (Egyptian, Sea Island). The longer the fibre, the higher the price and the more luxurious the fabric.

Cotton withstands high temperatures, can be boiled and hot pressed. It is resistant to abrasion has good affinity to dyes, and increases in strength 10% when wet. The world’s leading producers of cotton are China, the United States, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt.

DRILL Usually a left hand 2×1 weave, twill fabric.

Also used as generic term for non dyed twill fabrics.

CROCK A term used to describe how dye rubs off fabric on skin or other fabric.

DEAD STOCK To collectors, a pair of jeans with the original price tag that has never been worn or sold.

These rare jeans are extremely valuable.

DENIM Fabric made with a blue cotton warp and white cotton filling. Denim was originally called serge de Nimes because it was produced in Nimes, France.

Hard-wearing material. Originally it was used as working clothes like overalls and jeans. Nowadays it’s used for fashionable clothes. Often blue, with artificial caused patina like groping and holes for a worn look, maybe covered by patches for decoration.

DIPS Dips is used to describe fabric or yarn when they are immersed in dye. Indigo yarns are dipped in an indigo bath usually 6 times but up to 16 times.

DOBBY A fabric with small geometric figures incorporated into the weave, it is made on special looms.

DOUBLE NEEDLE A seam commonly used in Jeanswear garments (shirts, jeans, jackets) where a sewing machine stitches two threads side by side for strength at one time.

DUCK Once known as a fabric lighter than canvas, today a duck is considered to be a synonym for canvas or a plain weave cotton made from medium to coarse yarns.

DUNGAREE Comes from the Hindi word used to describe the trousers worn by sailors from the Indian port of Dungri many years ago.

DYEING The industrial process to add color to fibre, yarn, fabric, or garments.

ECRU The natural color of cotton.

ENZYMES Are proteins and as such are present in all living cells. Enzymes speed up chemical processes that would run very slowly if at all. They are non-toxic and readily broken down. Enzymes are used in textile processing, mainly in the finishing of fabrics and garments.

ENZYME WASHING Use of cellulose enzymes to soften the jeans and lighten color.

FIBRE The smallest textile component. A near microscopic, hairlike substance that may be natural or manmade. Are units of matter having length at least 100 times their diameter or width. Fibres suitable for textile use possess adequate length, fineness, strength, and flexibility for yarn formation and fabric construction, and for withstanding the intended use of the completed fabric. Other properties affecting textile fibre performance include elasticity, crimp (waviness), moisture absorption, reaction to heat and sunlight, reaction to the various chemicals applied during processing and in the dry cleaning or laundering of the completed fabric, and resistance to insects and micro-organisms.

The wide variation of such properties among textile fibres determines their suitability for various uses.

FIVE POCKET JEAN Means your jean has 2 back pockets plus 2 front pockets and a coin or watch pocket inside the front right pocket.

HERRINGBONE Herringbone is a weave where twill warp stripes are created by running twills in different directions.

GENES Sturdy cotton pants worn by Genoese sailors.

INDIGO Indigo is a blue vat dyestuff, that was originally taken from the “Indigofera tinctoria” plant by fermenting the leaves of the shrub. In 1897, fourteen years after Adolf von Bayer identified the chemical structure of indigo, the chemical became synthetically manufactured. Indigo’s inherent features are good colourfastness to water and light, a continually fading and its inability to penetrate fibres completely. This allows the blue color in jeans made from indigo to always look irregular and individual.

What is indigo?

Indigo is a dyestuff that was originally extracted from a plant. Egyptian excavations have suggested that indigo was used as far back as 1600 B.C. Natural indigo dyes were used throughout history, and have been found in Africa, India, Indonesia, and China. Until Adolf von Baeyer identified the chemical structure of indigo in 1883, the only indigo dyes used came from plants. Fourteen years after Baeyer’s discovery, indigo was developed synthetically.

Whether chemical or synthetic, indigo dyes never fully penetrate fibre and the dye continually fades. If any indigo yarn is untwisted, white fibre is found. Other dyes fully penetrate fibres. Indigo is always blue although there are various casts of blue indigo available.

Dyestuff manufacturers have tried to make other colors that duplicate indigo’s special features but no other color fades or avoids full fibre penetration.

GENOVA The most important port in Italy; by the Genoa-bay by the north-west-end of Italian peninsula. 714.000 inhabitants. Industry; harbour for ships of all sizes. University build in 1243; commercial upper-secondary school; Academy of Fine Arts. Romanesque-Gothic cathedral (10th – 14th centuries). Aristocracy palaces: Palazzo Reale (1650-1705), Palazzo Rosso (17. Cent.), both with collections of paintings. A 70 meters high lighthouse is the landmark of the town. A sight is the cemetery Camposanto. Genova got under Roman control in 218 BC. As an independent republic in the middle age it was the centre for trade in the Mediterranean; When it progressed its trade to the Orient (the West) it got in dispute with Venezia. Defeats and internal disputes weakened the town, and in the 15th century it lost its importance. In 1828 the town regained its independence thanks to Andrea Doria.

In 1768 Genoa sold its last colony, Corsica, to Italy. Bonaparte later incorporated the town into France. In 1815 it got a part of the kingdom Sardinia.

GINNING The industrial process where seeds are taken out of picked cotton.

GOOD MIDDLING The name for the best grade of cotton.

GRAY GOODS/LOOMSTATE/ GREIGE/GREY Words used to describe fabric that is just off the loom, woven but unfinished in any way.

GREENCAST This is when a yellow-green sulphur is used in the indigo dye.

HAND OR HANDLE The way a fabric feels. This is a very subjective judgment of the feel of a fabric and it should help decide if a fabric is suitable for a specific end use. Hand may be crisp, soft, drapeable, smooth, springy, stiff, cool, warm, rough, hard, limp, soapy…….. Finishing and garment wash affect the final handle of a fabric.

JEAN Comes from the French word “Genes” used to describe the pants sailors from Genoa once wore.

While the historical definition implied that all jeans were made of denim, jeans today usually refer to a garment that has 5 pockets (two in the front, two in the back and a small change pocket on the front right pocket) and this style can be made using any kinds of fabrics be it corduroy, twills, or bull denim.

KHAKI Khaki uniforms were introduced by Sir Harry Burnett Lumsden for British colonial troops in India and were later widely used at the time of the Indian Mutiny (1857-5 and became the official colour for uniforms of British armies, native and colonial, in India.

Today, the word is used both as a color and as a style of trouser. Khaki is a beige to yellow military color and the garment is usually a men’s army style trouser made of a twill cotton fabric.

LAUNDRY A manufacturing company that takes unwashed jeans, and processes them. This processing includes washing, stone washing, sandblasting, and garment dyeing. Laundries today are critical in making jeans look commercial and wash development has become equally important to fabric development in the jeanswear industry.

The best laundries and wash developments come from Italy, Japan and the United States.

LEFT HAND TWILL A fabric weave where the twill line runs from the top left hand corner of the fabric towards the bottom right. Usually in piece dyed fabrics, left hand twill fabrics are woven from single plied yarns LOOM The weaving machine. Most famous loom manufacturers are Sulzer Ruti from Switzerland, Picanol from Belgium, Dornier from France, Tsudakoma /Toyoda from Japan and Vamatex from Italy. The word loom (from Middle English lome, “tool”) is applied to any set of devices permitting a warp to be tensioned and a shed to be formed. The warp shed is formed with the aid of heddles where one heddle is provided for each end of warp thread. By pulling one end of the heddle or the other, the warp end can be deflected to one side or the other of the main sheet of ends.

The frame holding the heddles is called a harness. Today there are three kinds of looms: dummy shuttle, rapier, and fluid jet. The dummy-shuttle type, the most successful of the shuttleless looms, makes use of a dummy shuttle, a projectile that contains no weft but that passes through the shed in the manner of a shuttle and leaves a trail of yarn behind it.

The rapier type conveys a pick of weft from a stationary package through the shed by means of either a single rapier or a pair of rapiers.

Rapiers are either rigid rods or flexible steel tapes, which are straight when in the shed but on withdrawal are wound onto a wheel, in order to save floor space. Rapier looms are, on the whole, simpler and more versatile than dummy-shuttle looms but are slower in weaving speed. There are of two kinds of fluid-jet looms, one employing a jet of air, the other a water jet, to propel a measured length

of weft through the shed. The significance of this is that nothing solid is passed into the shed other than the weft, which eliminates the difficulties normally associated with checking and warp protection, and reduces the noise to an acceptable level. The machines can attain great weaving speed and output.

LOOP DYED One of the three major industrial methods of dyeing indigo yarns.

LYCRA Dupont’s trademark for spandex fibre.

LYOCELL The generic name given to the cellulosic fibre developed by Courtaulds and marketed by them under the Tencel brand name.

MERCERIZATION An industrial process used on yarn or fabrics to increase lustre as well as dye affinity. It can also be used (on fabrics destined for the jeanswear industry) for keeping dye on the surface of the yarns or fabrics so that dyes do not fully penetrate the fibre.

NATURAL DYES Up to to the middle of the 19th century there were only natural dyes and most of these these were vegetable origin. Natural indigo being one of the more important dyes. Natural dyes usually have no affinity for textile fibres until the fibres are treated with aluminum, iron, or tin compounds to receive the dye (mordanting). This is a problematic process and the dyes in any case have poor fastness to sun or abrasion.

NATURAL FIBRES Any hairlike raw material directly obtainable from an animal, vegetable, or mineral source that can be convertible, after spinning, into yarns and then into woven cloth. The usefulness of a fibre for commercial purposes is determined by it’s length, strength, pliability, elasticity, abrasion resistance, absorbency, and various surface properties The earliest indication of hemp is in South East Asia in 4500 BC, linen in Egypt in 3400 BC, and cotton fibre use is in India in 3000 BC. OPEN END DENIM The term Open End Denim describes the yarn that is used to weave the denim. About A process was developed that was more economical and produced a more consistent yarn thickness. For the jean purist, this denim

is considered too refined and does not posses the unique character or strength of the denim of the past.

OPTICAL BRIGHTENERS OR OPTICAL WHITENERS Chemicals that make fabrics appear to reflect more light than they really do, to make them brighter (they convert ultraviolet light to visible light in the blue region). They are sometimes used in the manufacture of fabrics and are often included in the formula of many detergents sold for home use.

ORGANIC COTTON Cotton grown where toxic chemicals have been eliminated in all growing process steps.

Living soil (defined as being free of toxic chemicals for three years) is the basis of an organic farm and organic farmers have proven when plants are healthy they are able to resist insects, weeds and disease.

OVERALL A one piece garment style usually made from denim or canvas. It is a pant with a bib top and suspenders over shoulders and back.

Originally a work wear product.

OVERDYE Fabric dye process on denim fabrics. Most frequently used on indigo or black denim fabric which is overdyed black.

OXIDATION Where oxygen and another substance chemically join. Occurs when indigo yarn comes out of the indigo bath between dips, and is critical for the the dyestuff to penetrate the fibre.

PIGMENT DYES Dyes without affinity for fibre and are therefore held to fabric with resins. They are available in almost any color and have been used extensively in the jeans wear industry by fabric dyers who want to create fabrics that fade.

PLY All yarns are single ply unless twisted with another yarn. Terms used are: 2 ply if two yarns are twisted together and 3 ply if three are twisted. Plied yarns are used to make yarns stronger. In the jeans-wear industry it has become important to ply yarns in piece dyed fabrics that are intended to endure a long stone wash cycle.

POLYESTER (PES) Polyester is made of chemicals derived from coal, air, water and oil.

Polyester is a strong fibre with a good dye affinity, a high luster and good resiliency. In the 1960′s polyester and cotton were blended and had mass market appeal due to the blending of both fibres’ strengths. Polyester’s weak characteristics are that it pills, and is non-absorbent.

SANFORIZE A Cluett Peabody and Company trademark for the preshrinking fabric process that limits residual fabric shrinkage to under 1%.

Developed in the late 1920′s by the Sanforize Co., the process was used on the garments in Wrangler’s first jeans line in 1947.

PRE-SHRUNK “Pre-shrunk” means the denim has been pretreated to ensure that the garment will shrink less than 3% in washing. And that’s just a technical way of saying that washing your jeans should not affect the fit of the garment.

SANDBLAST We do not use sandblasting. Ever.

PUMICE STONES A volcanic stone used for stone washing garments. Pumice is popular because of its strength and light weight.

REDCAST Organic blue, which is also known as happy days, has a slightly reddish tint. It was used by Levis to make the big E. The dyeing formula originally included some real corn syrup.

RIGHT HAND TWILL A fabric weave where the twill line runs from the top right hand corner of the fabric towards the bottom left. Usually in piece dyed fabrics right hand twills use two plied yarns in the warp. In the jeans industry Levi’s has always used Right Hand twills for their basic denims in their 501 model as well as their other basic models.

RING SPUN DENIM Ring Spun Denim is a rugged and less refined yarn. This yarn adds character to the denim because of the “slubs” running throughout the yarn. Slubs are tiny knots of cotton, and these slubs are found randomly throughout the yarn. All in all, ring spun is stronger and will last longer than Open End Denim.

RIVETS Metal tabs placed at stress points in pre-1960s jeans, introduced by Nevada tailor Jacob Davis, who borrowed the technique from horse blankets.

ROPE DYED Considered as the best possible method to dye indigo yarns.

SANDING/EMERISING A fabric finishing process where fabrics are sanded (real sandpaper) to make the surface soft without hair. Can be performed before or after dyeing.

SATIN AND SATEEN A fabric weave where one yarn floats over a series of yarns before it interlaces once. When the warp floats over a series of picks (at least four) the fabric is called satin. When the filling floats over a series of ends the fabric is called sateen. Satin weaves make fabric surfaces shiny and very smooth.

SCOURING An industrial process where dirt or starch (oil, grease, sizing) is taken off fabrics.

SELVAGE DENIM Old 28/29 inch shuttle looms produced denim where selvages were closed. Vintage Levi’s jeans had a single red stripe along both selvages, Lee’s had a blue/green along one, Wrangler’s was yellow. When vintage shopping for jeanswear check jackets and jeans for selvages because they are a great clue to the real thing!

SHUTTLE The weft insertion device that propels the filling yarn across (over and under) the warp yarns. Shuttles used to be (shuttle looms) wooden with a metal tip.

SILK Silk is the filament secreted by the silkworm when spinning its cocoon, and the name for the threads, yarns, and fabrics made from the filament. Most commercial silk is produced by the cultivated silkworm, Bombyx mori, which feeds exclusively on the leaves of certain varieties of mulberry trees and spins a thin, white filament. Several species of wild silkworm feed on oak, cherry, and mulberry leaves and produce a brown, hairy filament that is three times the thickness of the cultivated filament and is called tussah silk.

SINGEING A phase of finishing when the fabric surface hair is burnt (or singed) using a controlled flame, to give a clean appearance to the fabrics.

SIZING

Starch, gelatin, glue, wax that is added to fabrics in the finishing state to improve touch or weight and to help fabric laying in the cutting phase. Denim fabrics for example have almost 1 oz of sizing.

Sizing is also applied to reinforce warp yarns during weaving. Most common starches used are corn in the United States, rice in Asia, and potato in Europe, or PVOH and other chemical substances. Look out for fabrics containing P.C.P., a highly toxic chemical still used sometimes as sizing agent!

SKEWING Twill fabrics have to be ensured not to skew or not unroll.

SLASHER DYED One of the three methods to dye indigo yarn.

SLUB YARN A yarn that is spun purposely to look irregular in shape (length and diameter). Usually slub yarns are very regular in repeat and size.

SPANDEX (PU) Generic name for man-made fibres derived from a resin called segmented polyurethane.

It has good stretch and recovery properties.

SPINNING Spinning is the process by which cotton, wool, flax, and other short fibres are twisted together to produce a yarn or thread suitable for weaving into cloth, winding into rope or cable, or used in sewing. (Long, continuous fibres, such as silk, are not spun. To achieve strength and the appropriate thickness, they are thrown, or twisted, together.)

STAPLE Short lengths of fibres, normally measured in inches or fraction of inches, like those naturally found in cotton and wool. Silk, on the other hand, is the only natural fibre that does not come in staple lengths but instead in filament lengths.

STONEWASHING Process in which pumice stones are added to wash cycle to abrade denim and loosen color.

S-TWIST YARN A left handed twisted yarn. See also Z-Twist.

SULPHUR A type of dyestuff used frequently on blacks, and neutrals (khaki’s) while economical, has only moderate fastness to washing and light.

SYNTHETIC DYES In 1856 William Henry Perkin, an English chemist, discovered the synthetic dye mauveine. From this day forward, synthetic dyestuffs began to supplant natural dyes.

The synthetic-dye manufacturing industry was founded by Perkin in 1857, when he set up facilities near London for the commercial production of mauveine and, later, of other synthetic dyes. Other dye-making factories followed both in the U.K. and continental Europe, and new dyes began to appear on the market.

SYNTHETIC FIBRES Chemicals combined into large molecules called polymers, produce fibres like nylon, polyester, spandex, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, saran, spandex, and vinyon.

TEXTILE FINISHING The non coloring process to make woven or knitted fabric more acceptable to the consumer. Finishing processes include bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, sizing applied after dyeing affecting touch treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Greige fabric is generally dirty, harsh, unattractive and requires considerable skill and imagination for conversion into a desirable product. Italian textile mills are famous as being the best finishers in the world.

TWILL The term twill designates both a textile weave characterised by diagonal structural designs and the cloth made from that weave. The weave may be varied to produce broken or intertwining effects. Twill fabrics are usually firm and are used especially in suits and in sport and work clothes. Twill-weave fabrics are also used for linings, pockets, and mattress ticking. Serge, gabardine, and cheviot are major types of twill.

UNEVEN YARN Ring Spun yarn is by nature never perfectly regular; these irregularities can be used to give character to the yarn and subsequently to the fabric. It can be either light to give a natural appearance, or pronounced, to give an “antique� effect. Even Open End yarns can sometimes reproduce the antique effect, although they are very regular and cannot give a natural effect.

VELVET A fabric with a short, closely woven pile, originally made of silk, it is today made of rayon, nylon, acrylic cut pile fabrics.

WARP The lengthwise, vertical yarns carried over and under the weft. Warp yarns generally have more twist than weft yarns because they are subjected to more strain in the weaving process and therefore require more strength.

WEFT (ALSO CALLED FILLING) The lengthwise, selvage to selvage horizontal, yarns carried over and under the warp. Filling yarns generally have less twist than warp yarns because they are subjected to less strain in the weaving process and therefore require less strength. In pile-fabric constructions, such as velvet or velveteen, extra sets of warps are used to form the pile. A single filling yarn is known as a pick.

YARN A generic term for a continuous strand spun from a group of natural or synthetic staple fibres, or filaments, used in weaving, knitting to form textile fabrics.

YARN DYED Or Color Wovens, are fabrics produced with yarns already dyed prior to the weaving process.

Z-TWIST A right-handed twisted yarn, as opposed to S-Twist.

N E U W R E TA I L E R S For complete list visit Neuwdenim.com

AMERICAN RAG - United States

LIBERTY – London

AHLENS - Sweden

MATCHES – London

APLACE - Sweden

MAPLE - Australia

BLUE - Aachen

NK - Sweden

DAKOTA 501 - Australia

NORDSTROM - United States

DAVID JONES - Australia

OAK - United States

DEPARTMENT STORE - New Zealand

RÅDHUSET - Sweden

FRED SEGAL - United States

SELFRIDGES - United Kingdom

GIULIO - United Kingdom

SERVICE – Brand Stores (Aust/NZ)

GENERAL PANTS - Australia

SOLO - Sweden

GRANDPA - Sweden

STIERBLUT - Germany

HARRODS – London

YOUR STORE - Belgium

HARVEY NICHOLS - United Kingdom

VOLT - Scandinavia

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