Th is bo o k i s n ot fo r co mme rc i a l u s e . I nt e r n a l u s e o n ly .
NIEUWLANDSTRAAT “The brand name Neuw originates from this street, where I lived in Brussels called Nieuwlandstraat. This is where I began to tailor and alter vintage pieces from my denim archive and where the idea of the brand was born.” - Pär Lundqvist
N E U W
R I N G
The Neuw ring which hangs from the front right belt loop of every pair of Neuw jeans is in memory of the beautiful fob watch given to Par by his grandfather. Par would keep this watch in the front pocket of his favourite jeans secured by the chain to the belt loop. One drunken evening in Stockholm the watch met its demise and all that remained was the fastening ring which Par kept as a memento, liking the look and ultimately fastening one to every pair of Neuw jeans.
R E P A I R S T I T C H Neuw is a modern brand inspired by vintage denim and the culture around denim. For us, a traditional deck stitch didn’t feel right. When we looked through Par’s collection of jeans he has worn until they’ve almost disintegrated. Many had personal repair stitches where his wallet had broken through the back right pocket. The Neuw repair stitch became our signature, you could say, on every pair of Neuw jeans.
IDs V I N T A G E
R E V I S I O N
D A R T
The back hem dart is a symbol of the roots of Neuw and how everything started for us; The Vintage revision design philosophy where we adapt traditional silhouettes for a contemporary look.
LONDON 2017 photographer Dario Catellani talent Elliot Vulliod
R AY TA P E R E D
Slim Waist Skinny Fit Skinny Tapered Leg
Slim Waist Slim Fit Tapered Leg
Relaxed Waist Slim Fit Tapered Leg
Regular Waist Slim Fit Straight Leg
Regular Waist Slim Fit Straight & Cropped Leg
Regular Waist Relaxed Fit Tapered & Cropped Leg
RISE 2 7. 5 c m / 1 1 ”
RISE 25cm / 10”
RISE 28cm / 11”
RISE 26cm / 10¼”
RISE 26cm / 10¼”
RISE 28.5cm / 11¼”
KNEE 35cm / 13¾”
KNEE 38cm / 15”
KNEE 39cm / 15½”
KNEE 40cm / 15¾”
KNEE 40cm / 15¾”
KNEE 43cm / 17”
HEM 30cm / 11¾”
HEM 32cm / 12½”
HEM 33cm / 13”
HEM 34cm / 13½”
HEM 34cm / 13”
HEM 38cm / 15”
FORM S T R E T C H
FORM CE STRETCH
THE ULTIMATE MODERN JEAN C ra ft ed fro m prem iu m high t ec h s t ret c h d en im FO R M d el iver s t he u l t im a t e co mfo r t in m en sâ€™s d en im
FORM S T R E T C H
FORM S T R E T C H
MADE FOR MOVEMENT We believe in freedom for all. FORM is made to move.
FORM JEANS Back pockets are reinforced with a cotton lining, providing extra strength.
ULTIMATE COMFORT With the highest quality fabrics, FORM jeans only improve with age.
SUP REME FLEXIBILITY Using innovative fabrics these jeans provide not only stretch but also retention so they keep your form.
Reinforced lining has the added benefit of keeping your belongings safe and in place.
FO R M RAW & R EAL
We introduce our exclusive high-tech stretch denim, a fabric that we have cultivated to perform both in form and function. Crafted from premium, high stretch denim, FORM delivers the ultimate comfort in jeans.
FORM is tough & sharp and designed to move with you. It is crafted with distinctive fabrics that makes thi s capsule of jeans the ultimate 21st century denim style.
CAGE THE ELEPHANT
2 0 1 8 Neu w FORM de ni m i s ‘made to move’. Now t he de ni m ch oi ce for s tag e m us icia ns all over th e world, we w i ll be celebrati n g wi th our fav i n d i e ba nd s w it h NEUW eve nts i n LA , Syd n ey Swed en an d London.
T R A N S F O R M AT I O N GLOBAL COLLECTION
J U LY - S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 8
1 / 18 / 36 DRY
This range is built around the journey a garment takes from newly produced, crisp and perfect to tattered, torn, worn and repaired. Imperfect, but full of texture, stories and personality. Based on this journey, the range is split in to three groups:
1. Is virgin product. Dry, crisp modern, urban life utilitarian menswear with textured character and bold hits of graphics inspired by production, shipping and warehousing.
18. Is worn in and loved. The jeans look and feel authentic, raw and real; but feel as comfortable as a pair you have worn for years. Prints and graphics are hand drawn and photocopied, with inspiration from contemporary art and music.
36. This is the point where life has taken a toll on the garments. There are highly visible marks of wear and distortion which manifest in tears, repairs and alterations. Inspired by garments that have been treated roughly. The kind of garments you will never want to throw away, youâ€™ve experienced too much together. Fashion graphics and silhouettes have been stretched out and distorted. Relaxed tees, shirts, knits and jackets are worn back with slim cut, cropped jeans.
TRANSF ORMA TION PLA YLIS T:
THE V AC CINES - HANDSOME
C U R R E N T LY O N O U R P L AY L I S T : GLASS ANIMALS - GOOE
T H E VACC I N E S - H A N D S O M E
ANIMAL C OLLE CTIVE - MY
GLASS ANIMALS - GOOEY
VINCE ST APLES - BIG FISH
ANIMAL COLLECTIVE - MY GIRLS
ICE AG EV- I N YO C U’RE E S TNO A P LTHING ES - BIG FISH AGE H - YOU’RE NOTHING JAMIE XXI C- EGOS JAMIE XX - GOSH
KING KRULE - EA
SY EAS Y
KING KRULE - EASY EASY
HANNI E L KH AT IB - T IL L YO UR ROSE
CO MES HOME
H A N N I E L K H AT I B - T I L L YO U R R O S E C O M E S H O M E
WOLF DA W OALLICE F A L- IFC EORMI - FO R BLE M I D ACO B LOL E COOL . O . S ,Y LMIDNIGHT A D Y M I D N- IFGADED H T - FA D E D P.O. S,PLAD OMNI - EQUESTRIAN OMNI - E QUESTRIA N B A S S D R U M O F D E AT H - C R AW L I N G A F T E R YO U
BASS D RUM OF DEA TH - CRA WLING AFTER Y OU
T H E PA R A N OY D S - H E AT H E R D O U B T F I R E
THE PA RANO YDS - HE AT H ER DOUBTFIRE
MARCHING CHURCH - HEART OF LIFE
CHRURCH C A G E T HMARCHING E ELEPHA N T - A I-NHEAR ’ T N O R ET SOF T FLIF O RE T H E W I C K E D T OELEPHANT T A L C O N T R- OA LIN’T - GNO L AREST SS CA GE T HE F OR T HE W ICKE D CLOUD NOTHINGS - HEY COOL KID
TO TA L CO NTRO L - GLAS S
WOLF ALICE - YUK FOO
CL OUD NO THINGS - HE
Y CO OL KID
FUGAZI - WAITING ROOM
L C D WOLF S O U NADLICE S Y S- TYE UK M -F OO DANCE YOURSELF CLEAN I CZI EA E -ITING T H EROOM LO R D S FAVO U R I T E FU GA - GWA
SY STEM - D ANCE Y OURSEL F CLEA N
ICE AG E - THE LO RDS FAVO URIT E
A IR WASH GLOBAL INITIATIVE
Can you recall that fresh and pleasant smell in the air, right after the thunderstorm? It’s due to ozone and that’s what we’ve used for all washes in our ‘Air Wash’ series. Ozone (O 3 ) is a natural and very powerful oxidising, cleansing and bleaching agent. When used in laundry washing, ozone allows for a shorter wash cycle resulting in significant energy and water savings.
On top of this, ozone does not remain in the water after treatment. Ozone is totally biodegradable and after completing its function, it reverts rapidly back to Oxygen (O 2 ), leaving no chemical residues behind.
BE T T ER COT TO N IN IT IAT IVE (BCI) GLOBAL INITIATIVE
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sectorâ€™s future, by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity.
“ I ’m not a wo ma n. I ’m a fo rce of na ture .” – Co ur tne y Love
N E U W
R I N G
The Neuw ring which hangs from the front right belt loop of every pair of Neuw jeans is smaller and slimmer giving it a feminine touch for our womenâ€™s jeans.
B U T T O N The button is engraved with the Neuw logo and is fresh and modern, while remaining feminine.
R I V E T S
B U R R S
Concealed on the inside, the rivets are engraved with the no. 25 representing the Nieuwlandstraat address where the brand once started to take form. The circular design of the outer burrsâ€™ is inspired by vinyl records; a deliberate nod to the music and culture that inspires Neuw.
IDs R E P A I R
S T I T C H
The Neuw signature repair stitch adds a modern touch to every pair of jeans, more contemporary than the traditional deck stitch.
THE NAME ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED I think my name represents, in the industry and for consumers around the world, a guarantee of any work. A lot of study and research, innovation and new ideas, new processes and bringing denim to the next level. I had more than 10 years of working on different experiences before I started the Genius Group in the early 80’s. I started a retail store in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy and learnt a lot about the needs of consumers. I realised that there was a big hole in the market for innovation of the product, and in particular, denim. Following this I started a brand called King Jeans followed by Daily Blue. From there I realised I could put all of these brands (including Diesel) under one roof; so I created the Genius Group. That was a kind of explosion of creativity and marketing new ideas.
LOVE FOR DENIM There is nothing like denim. It is like a white canvas where you can do whatever you want. You have incredible possibilities to create different things. I feel like denim is the material, and the only material, that can allow a designer to develop so many different ideas. I fell in love with denim when it took my attention in the early 70’s, and it’s still my true love.
WORKING WITH NEUW I believe the industry and market is a little bored with the old brands and that they need to have new ideas. Neuw Denim represents a new generation and a new way of making business. What I find particularly interesting is the way that Neuw is mixing the early heritage idea of denim; the classic, traditional and vingtage denim; with a new, modern concept. They’re creating a new generation of denim with a more contemporary and modern idea. This is what’s exciting for me and is why I decided to collaborate with Neuw Denim.
COLLABORATING WITH DAUGHTER GLENDA GOLDSCHMIED My daughter Glenda represents the new generation, the new creativity. She is really part of the creative world in London. Obviously, I am a totally different generation and we have creative conflicts every day, but in some way these are good conflicts because I bring my experience and she brings fashion ideas and a way of thinking that is totally out of the box. In the end, it was an amazing experience working with her on this project and creating something that I feel and hope is really unique for Neuw Denim.
MAKING NEUW UNIQUE DENIM AND THE MODERN WOMAN A woman is asking to have denim do a lot of things today and she is demanding more and more. She wants to look sexy and feminine. Denim is an item that she is wearing all day long, not only to work but in many cases also for special occassions, so it has to be comfortable. Most importantly, denim has to be a kind of fashion tool that has the ability to make a women feel attractive, on-trend and a part of the fashion world.
I have tried to bring the concept of the women’s jean for Neuw Denim to the next level. The market today is still dominated by the Californian generated sexy jean. My idea was to explore a new segment that was about bringing back some styles and fabrics from the past and mixing them with the new concept of denim for women. The fabrics are different and more heavy, shaping the body in a different way. In particular, there is the Lola style mama jean; a high waisted, curvy jean that is inspired by the woman of the 90’s. What is very important is how the Neuw jeans are inspired by the Rock’n’Roll of the 70’s but made in modern ways that are much more contemporary. I think consumers can be confident in the Neuw brand as it has a very strong approach with heritage and classic denim, but offers new fits, new fabrics and new branding that is making Neuw a very new product.
M A R I LY N
Super High Skinny
Super High Mom
RISE 21cm / 8¼”
RISE 24cm / 9½”
RISE 27cm / 10½”
RISE 26cm / 10¼”
RISE 28cm / 11”
RISE 28cm / 11”
RISE 29cm / 11½”
KNEE 29.5cm / 11½”
KNEE 29.5cm / 11½”
KNEE 29.5cm / 11½”
KNEE 37cm / 14½”
KNEE 40cm / 15¾”
KNEE 42cm / 16½”
KNEE 46.5cm / 18¼”
HEM 24cm / 9½”
HEM 24cm / 9½”
HEM 24cm / 9½”
HEM 32cm / 12½”
HEM 30cm / 11¾”
HEM 32cm / 12½”
HEM 41.5cm / 16¼”
N E U W WORL D
N E UW FA N Z I N E 2017 GLOBAL COLLECTION
a magazine, usually produced by amateurs, for fans of a particular performer, group, or form of entertainment. Neuw Denim has created a range inspired by fanzines from across the world. Whilst spanning across decades and countries, all have a common denominator; music, subculture and expression. The fanzine symbolises all things made out of passion, love and creativity. Made by fanatics, people who stitch on badges on jackets, shirts and teeâ€™s to show what they believe in. These are people who care. Whether itâ€™s music, literature or art. Photographer Ribal Hosn, talent Ayls Hales from Hair Die and Boki The Legend.
FL AGS HIP S TO R E MELBOURNE CBD, AUSTRALIA
The studio-inspired space showcases the brand’s minimal Scandinavian heritage alongside indoor greenery and, of course, a killer selection of denim. All styles on offer reflect the best developments of denim history – think functional design and quality craftsmanship.
P ITT I IM M AGINE UO M O FIRENZE, ITALY
For the first time, we travelled to the legendary fashion fair, Pitti Uomo to showcase 21st century denim. The collections we exhibited during the fair comprised of our Global FORM capsule and the denim cycle-based collection TRANSFORMATION.
NEUW DEN I M F L AGSH I P S TOR E OPE N I N G MELBOURNE CBD, AUSTRALIA
A cool crowd joined us for some booze, tunes and denim in January 2017 to celebrate our Neuw Resistance Laneway Launch Party and official launch party of our first ever Flagship Store in Melbourne CBD, Australia. Tunes supplied by power rock blues local band, The Ugly Kings and tasty beverages provided by Once Bitter local brewery. Safe to say we had an awesome night checking out the stores new space with some of the most influential crew in the denim and music space in attendance.
NO RDI C STON E LAUNCH PARTY SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
Legendary venue “Selena’s” was pumping Tuesday night with Neuw Denim’s take over event for the launch of their new “Nordic Stone” range. The Frozen themed party included performances from Ruby Fields with her debut single, “I want” featured on Triple J and BBC Radio 1.
NEUW DEN I M x DEPECHE MODE STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN
It was Friday, the fifth of May and the first wave of spring had arrived in Stockholm. We teamed up with Carlings x Depeche Mode and invited two amazing international bands Tella Viv, Dolores Haze and music writer Fredrik Strage for an intimate night out on the town.
33 H O UR S I N M E L BOURN E MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
From morning to morning through in the theme of now infamous 33 hours with old friends and new friends. Drinking, dancing and capturing the moments on film and memories. Finally 33 hours in Fitzroy, the birthplace of the brand.
D E N I M G LO S SA RY Neuw Denim
ABRASION Dry processors (laundries) try to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface of the fabric causing abrasion.
CARDING The industrial yarn preparation process where raw cotton is separated, opened, cleaned and made into sliver.
ACRYLIC Synthetic fibre that is made with just the right combination of coal, air, water, petroleum and limestone. The fibre has fair affinity to dye, and piles easily.
CELLULOSIC FIBRES The chemical processing of short cotton fibres, linters, or wood pulp produce fibres like rayon, acetate, and triacetate. Other materials modified to produce fibres include protein, glass, metals, and rubber.
BARTACK A sewing procedure that reinforces stress points on jeans, usually front flies, pocket openings and crotch joins of inseams. Thankfully there is a bartack machine. BEDFORD CORD A fabric weave with ribs down the length of the fabric. The ribs can be any width. Looks like an uncut unbrushed corduroy without a velvet feeling. BLEACH Laundries use this chemical to make denim jeans fade. Liquid bleach is usually an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite, and dry powdered bleaches contain chloride of lime (calcium hypochlorite). Because chlorine destroys silk and wool, commercial hypochlorite bleaches should never be used on these fibres. BROKEN TWILL A denim fabric weave first used by Wrangler in 1964 in their jeans style 13MWZ. The diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally interrupted to form a random design. Used prominently in the 1980’s by designer jeans brands like Sasson, Jordache and Calvin Klein with their dark prewash jeans and of course originally made famous by Wrangler. BULL DENIM A 3x1 twill weave piece dyed fabric, made from coarse yarns. Weights can vary from 9 oz/sq yard up to the standard 14 oz/sq yard. It’s basically a denim without indigo! CANVAS The simplest weave in textiles is a plain weave (1×1) where the filling yarn is passed over and under individual warp yarns. Using thick yarns, makes the fabric into a canvas.
CHAMBRAY A plain weave fabric, with a single but different warp and weft color. In jeanswear, fabric mills usually use a medium depth indigo warp colour and natural (unbleached) weft. CHINO The name came from both the trouser style worn by British Colonial troops in the 1800’s and the fabric used for the fabric. Today a cotton trouser is considered as a chino and the fabric would be considered as a tightly woven 2 ply right hand 3×1 combed cotton twill. CONVENTIONAL COTTON Most popular (commercial) system for growing cotton by feeding plants heavy dosages of synthetic fertilisers, and eliminating competing species for maximum yields. Using toxic pesticides (chemical herbicides, insecticides and defoliants) the process of providing conventional cotton is dangerous to farmers, people who live near farms, as well as our environment. CORDUROY The French originally called this this lush velvety fabric “Cord Du Roi”, cord of the King. The fabric is ribbed throughout the length and the ribs are cut and sheared so that a smooth velvety surface appears. Fourteen wale corduroy was one of the most important jeans fabrics in the 1960’s and 1970’s when jeans became universal. The fabric has a rounded plush velvet type cord, rib, or wale surface formed by cutting the pile. The fabric is woven by having one warp and two fillings. After weaving the back of the fabric is coated with glue, and the ribs are cut open down the centre. Once the glue is removed from the face, the fabric is finished by a series of brushings, waxings, and singeings. When the pile is made from extra fillings rather than from extra warp yarn, the fabric is called velveteen.
CORE SPUN YARN A yarn in which a base yarn is completely wrapped by a second yarn.
DRAWING/DRAFTING The industrial process where slivers are pulled out after carding and/or combing.
COTTON Cotton, Genus Gossypium, one of the world’s most important crops, produces white fibrous balls that are manufactured into a highly versatile textile. The plant has white flowers, which turn purple about two days after blooming, and large, divided leaves. Length of fibre ranges from 3/8’’ to 2’’ (Egyptian, Sea Island). The longer the fibre, the higher the price and the more luxurious the fabric. Cotton withstands high temperatures, can be boiled and hot pressed. It is resistant to abrasion has good affinity to dyes, and increases in strength 10% when wet. The world’s leading producers of cotton are China, the United States, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt.
DRILL Usually a left hand 2×1 weave, twill fabric. Also used as generic term for non dyed twill fabrics.
CROCK A term used to describe how dye rubs off fabric on skin or other fabric. DEAD STOCK To collectors, a pair of jeans with the original price tag that has never been worn or sold. These rare jeans are extremely valuable. DENIM Fabric made with a blue cotton warp and white cotton filling. Denim was originally called serge de Nimes because it was produced in Nimes, France. Hard-wearing material. Originally it was used as working clothes like overalls and jeans. Nowadays it’s used for fashionable clothes. Often blue, with artificial caused patina like groping and holes for a worn look, maybe covered by patches for decoration. DIPS Dips is used to describe fabric or yarn when they are immersed in dye. Indigo yarns are dipped in an indigo bath usually 6 times but up to 16 times. DOBBY A fabric with small geometric figures incorporated into the weave, it is made on special looms. DOUBLE NEEDLE A seam commonly used in Jeanswear garments (shirts, jeans, jackets) where a sewing machine stitches two threads side by side for strength at one time.
DUCK Once known as a fabric lighter than canvas, today a duck is considered to be a synonym for canvas or a plain weave cotton made from medium to coarse yarns. DUNGAREE Comes from the Hindi word used to describe the trousers worn by sailors from the Indian port of Dungri many years ago. DYEING The industrial process to add color to fibre, yarn, fabric, or garments. ECRU The natural color of cotton. ENZYMES Are proteins and as such are present in all living cells. Enzymes speed up chemical processes that would run very slowly if at all. They are non-toxic and readily broken down. Enzymes are used in textile processing, mainly in the finishing of fabrics and garments. ENZYME WASHING Use of cellulose enzymes to soften the jeans and lighten color. FIBRE The smallest textile component. A near microscopic, hairlike substance that may be natural or manmade. Are units of matter having length at least 100 times their diameter or width. Fibres suitable for textile use possess adequate length, fineness, strength, and flexibility for yarn formation and fabric construction, and for withstanding the intended use of the completed fabric. Other properties affecting textile fibre performance include elasticity, crimp (waviness), moisture absorption, reaction to heat and sunlight, reaction to the various chemicals applied during processing and in the dry cleaning or laundering of the completed fabric, and resistance to insects and micro-organisms. The wide variation of such properties among textile fibres determines their suitability for various uses.
FIVE POCKET JEAN Means your jean has 2 back pockets plus 2 front pockets and a coin or watch pocket inside the front right pocket.
HERRINGBONE Herringbone is a weave where twill warp stripes are created by running twills in different directions.
GENES Sturdy cotton pants worn by Genoese sailors.
INDIGO Indigo is a blue vat dyestuff, that was originally taken from the Indigofera Tinctoria plant by fermenting the leaves of the shrub. In 1897, fourteen years after Adolf von Bayer identified the chemical structure of indigo, the chemical became synthetically manufactured. Indigo’s inherent features are good colour fastness to water and light, a continually fading and its inability to penetrate fibres completely. This allows the blue color in jeans made from indigo to always look irregular and individual. What is indigo? Indigo is a dyestuff that was originally extracted from a plant. Egyptian excavations have suggested that indigo was used as far back as 1600 B.C. Natural indigo dyes were used throughout history, and have been found in Africa, India, Indonesia, and China. Until Adolf von Baeyer identified the chemical structure of indigo in 1883, the only indigo dyes used came from plants. Fourteen years after Baeyer’s discovery, indigo was developed synthetically. Whether chemical or synthetic, indigo dyes never fully penetrate fibre and the dye continually fades. If any indigo yarn is untwisted, white fibre is found. Other dyes fully penetrate fibres. Indigo is always blue although there are various casts of blue indigo available. Dyestuff manufacturers have tried to make other colors that duplicate indigo’s special features but no other color fades or avoids full fibre penetration.
GENOVA The most important port in Italy; by the Genoa-bay by the north-west-end of Italian peninsula. 714.000 inhabitants. Industry; harbour for ships of all sizes. University build in 1243; commercial upper-secondary school; Academy of Fine Arts. Romanesque-Gothic cathedral (10th – 14th centuries). Aristocracy palaces: Palazzo Reale (1650-1705), Palazzo Rosso (17. Cent.), both with collections of paintings. A 70 meters high lighthouse is the landmark of the town. A sight is the cemetery Camposanto. Genova got under Roman control in 218 BC. As an independent republic in the middle age it was the centre for trade in the Mediterranean; When it progressed its trade to the Orient (the West) it got in dispute with Venezia. Defeats and internal disputes weakened the town, and in the 15th century it lost its importance. In 1828 the town regained its independence thanks to Andrea Doria. In 1768 Genoa sold its last colony, Corsica, to Italy. Bonaparte later incorporated the town into France. In 1815 it got a part of the kingdom Sardinia. GINNING The industrial process where seeds are taken out of picked cotton. GOOD MIDDLING The name for the best grade of cotton. GRAY GOODS/LOOMSTATE/GREIGE/GREY Words used to describe fabric that is just off the loom, woven but unfinished in any way. GREENCAST This is when a yellow-green sulphur is used in the indigo dye. HAND OR HANDLE The way a fabric feels. This is a very subjective judgment of the feel of a fabric and it should help decide if a fabric is suitable for a specific end use. Hand may be crisp, soft, drapeable, smooth, springy, stiff, cool, warm, rough, hard, limp, soapy…….. Finishing and garment wash affect the final handle of a fabric.
JEAN Comes from the French word Genes, used to describe the pants sailors from Genoa once wore. While the historical definition implied that all jeans were made of denim, jeans today usually refer to a garment that has 5 pockets (two in the front, two in the back and a small change pocket on the front right pocket) and this style can be made using any kinds of fabrics be it corduroy, twills, or bull denim. KHAKI Khaki uniforms were introduced by Sir Harry Burnett Lumsden for British colonial troops in India and were later widely used at the time of the Indian Mutiny (1857) and became the official colour for uniforms of British armies, native and colonial, in India.
Today, the word is used both as a color and as a style of trouser. Khaki is a beige to yellow military color and the garment is usually a men’s army style trouser made of a twill cotton fabric. LAUNDRY A manufacturing company that takes unwashed jeans, and processes them. This processing includes washing, stone washing, sandblasting, and garment dyeing. Laundries today are critical in making jeans look commercial and wash development has become equally important to fabric development in the jeanswear industry. The best laundries and wash developments come from Italy, Japan and the United States. LEFT HAND TWILL A fabric weave where the twill line runs from the top left hand corner of the fabric towards the bottom right. Usually in piece dyed fabrics, left hand twill fabrics are woven from single plied yarns. LOOM The weaving machine. Most famous loom manufacturers are Sulzer Ruti from Switzerland, Picanol from Belgium, Dornier from France, Tsudakoma /Toyoda from Japan and Vamatex from Italy. The word loom (from Middle English lome, “tool”) is applied to any set of devices permitting a warp to be tensioned and a shed to be formed. The warp shed is formed with the aid of heddles where one heddle is provided for each end of warp thread. By pulling one end of the heddle or the other, the warp end can be deflected to one side or the other of the main sheet of ends. The frame holding the heddles is called a harness. Today there are three kinds of looms: dummy shuttle, rapier, and fluid jet. The dummy-shuttle type, the most successful of the shuttleless looms, makes use of a dummy shuttle, a projectile that contains no weft but that passes through the shed in the manner of a shuttle and leaves a trail of yarn behind it. The rapier type conveys a pick of weft from a stationary package through the shed by means of either a single rapier or a pair of rapiers. Rapiers are either rigid rods or flexible steel tapes, which are straight when in the shed but on withdrawal are wound onto a wheel, in order to save floor space. Rapier looms are, on the whole, simpler and more versatile than dummy-shuttle looms but are slower in weaving speed. There are of two kinds of fluid-jet looms, one employing a jet of air, the other a water jet, to propel a measured length of weft through the shed.
The significance of this is that nothing solid is passed into the shed other than the weft, which eliminates the difficulties normally associated with checking and warp protection, and reduces the noise to an acceptable level. The machines can attain great weaving speed and output. LOOP DYED One of the three major industrial methods of dyeing indigo yarns. LYCRA Dupont’s trademark for spandex fibre. LYOCELL The generic name given to the cellulosic fibre developed by Courtaulds and marketed by them under the Tencel brand name. MERCERIZATION An industrial process used on yarn or fabrics to increase lustre as well as dye affinity. It can also be used (on fabrics destined for the jeanswear industry) for keeping dye on the surface of the yarns or fabrics so that dyes do not fully penetrate the fibre. NATURAL DYES Up to to the middle of the 19th century there were only natural dyes and most of these these were vegetable origin. Natural indigo being one of the more important dyes. Natural dyes usually have no affinity for textile fibres until the fibres are treated with aluminum, iron, or tin compounds to receive the dye (mordanting). This is a problematic process and the dyes in any case have poor fastness to sun or abrasion. NATURAL FIBRES Any hair-like raw material directly obtainable from an animal, vegetable, or mineral source that can be convertible, after spinning, into yarns and then into woven cloth. The usefulness of a fibre for commercial purposes is determined by it’s length, strength, pliability, elasticity, abrasion resistance, absorbency, and various surface properties The earliest indication of hemp is in South East Asia in 4500 BC, linen in Egypt in 3400 BC, and cotton fibre use is in India in 3000 BC.
OPEN END DENIM The term Open End Denim describes the yarn that is used to weave the denim. About A process was developed that was more economical and produced a more consistent yarn thickness. For the jean purist, this denim is considered too refined and does not posses the unique character or strength of the denim of the past.
PLY All yarns are single ply unless twisted with another yarn. Terms used are: 2 ply if two yarns are twisted together and 3 ply if three are twisted. Plied yarns are used to make yarns stronger. In the jeans-wear industry it has become important to ply yarns in piece dyed fabrics that are intended to endure a long stone wash cycle.
RIVETS Metal tabs placed at stress points in pre-1960s jeans, introduced by Nevada tailor Jacob Davis, who borrowed the technique from horse blankets.
OPTICAL BRIGHTENERS OR OPTICAL WHITENERS Chemicals that make fabrics appear to reflect more light than they really do, to make them brighter (they convert ultraviolet light to visible light in the blue region). They are sometimes used in the manufacture of fabrics and are often included in the formula of many detergents sold for home use.
POLYESTER (PES) Polyester is made of chemicals derived from coal, air, water and oil. Polyester is a strong fibre with a good dye affinity, a high luster and good resiliency. In the 1960’s polyester and cotton were blended and had mass market appeal due to the blending of both fibres’ strengths. Polyester’s weak characteristics are that it pills, and is non-absorbent.
SANDING/EMERISING A fabric finishing process where fabrics are sanded (real sandpaper) to make the surface soft without hair. Can be performed before or after dyeing.
ORGANIC COTTON Cotton grown where toxic chemicals have been eliminated in all growing process steps. Living soil (defined as being free of toxic chemicals for three years) is the basis of an organic farm and organic farmers have proven when plants are healthy they are able to resist insects, weeds and disease. OVERALL A one piece garment style usually made from denim or canvas. It is a pant with a bib top and suspenders over shoulders and back. Originally a work wear product. OVERDYE Fabric dye process on denim fabrics. Most frequently used on indigo or black denim fabric which is overdyed black. OXIDATION Where oxygen and another substance chemically join. Occurs when indigo yarn comes out of the indigo bath between dips, and is critical for the the dyestuff to penetrate the fibre. PIGMENT DYES Dyes without affinity for fibre and are therefore held to fabric with resins. They are available in almost any color and have been used extensively in the jeans wear industry by fabric dyers who want to create fabrics that fade.
PRE-SHRUNK “Pre-shrunk” means the denim has been pre-treated to ensure that the garment will shrink less than 3% in washing. And that’s just a technical way of saying that washing your jeans should not affect the fit of the garment. PUMICE STONES A volcanic stone used for stone washing garments. Pumice is popular because of its strength and light weight. REDCAST Organic blue, which is also known as happy days, has a slightly reddish tint. It was used by Levi’s to make the big E. The dyeing formula originally included some real corn syrup. RIGHT HAND TWILL A fabric weave where the twill line runs from the top right hand corner of the fabric towards the bottom left. Usually in piece dyed fabrics right hand twills use two plied yarns in the warp. In the jeans industry Levi’s has always used Right Hand twills for their basic denims in their 501 model as well as their other basic models. RING SPUN DENIM Ring Spun Denim is a rugged and less refined yarn. This yarn adds character to the denim because of the “slubs” running throughout the yarn. Slubs are tiny knots of cotton, and these slubs are found randomly throughout the yarn. All in all, ring spun is stronger and will last longer than Open End Denim.
ROPE DYED Considered as the best possible method to dye indigo yarns.
SANFORIZE A Cluett Peabody and Company trademark for the pre-shrinking fabric process that limits residual fabric shrinkage to under 1%. Developed in the late 1920’s by the Sanforize Co., the process was used on the garments in Wrangler’s first jeans line in 1947. SANDBLAST We do not use sandblasting. Ever. SATIN AND SATEEN A fabric weave where one yarn floats over a series of yarns before it interlaces once. When the warp floats over a series of picks (at least four) the fabric is called satin. When the filling floats over a series of ends the fabric is called sateen. Satin weaves make fabric surfaces shiny and very smooth. SCOURING An industrial process where dirt or starch (oil, grease, sizing) is taken off fabrics.
SILK Silk is the filament secreted by the silkworm when spinning its cocoon, and the name for the threads, yarns, and fabrics made from the filament. Most commercial silk is produced by the cultivated silkworm, Bombyx mori, which feeds exclusively on the leaves of certain varieties of mulberry trees and spins a thin, white filament. Several species of wild silkworm feed on oak, cherry, and mulberry leaves and produce a brown, hairy filament that is three times the thickness of the cultivated filament and is called tussah silk. SINGEING A phase of finishing when the fabric surface hair is burnt (or singed) using a controlled flame, to give a clean appearance to the fabrics. SIZING Starch, gelatin, glue, wax that is added to fabrics in the finishing state to improve touch or weight and to help fabric laying in the cutting phase. Denim fabrics for example have almost 1oz of sizing. Sizing is also applied to reinforce warp yarns during weaving. Most common starches used are corn in the United States, rice in Asia, and potato in Europe, or PVOH and other chemical substances. Look out for fabrics containing P.C.P., a highly toxic chemical still used sometimes as sizing agent! SKEWING Twill fabrics have to be ensured not to skew or not unroll. SLASHER DYED One of the three methods to dye indigo yarn.
SELVEDGE DENIM Old 28/29 inch shuttle looms produced denim where selvedges were closed. Vintage Levi’s jeans had a single red stripe along both selvedges, Lee’s had a blue/green along one, Wrangler’s was yellow. When vintage shopping for jeanswear check jackets and jeans for selvedges because they are a great clue to the real thing!
SLUB YARN A yarn that is spun purposely to look irregular in shape (length and diameter). Usually slub yarns are very regular in repeat and size.
SHUTTLE The weft insertion device that propels the filling yarn across (over and under) the warp yarns. Shuttles used to be (shuttle looms) wooden with a metal tip.
SPINNING Spinning is the process by which cotton, wool, flax, and other short fibres are twisted together to produce a yarn or thread suitable for weaving into cloth, winding into rope or cable, or used in sewing. (Long, continuous fibres, such as silk, are not spun. To achieve strength and the appropriate thickness, they are thrown, or twisted, together.)
SPANDEX (PU) Generic name for man-made fibres derived from a resin called segmented polyurethane. It has good stretch and recovery properties.
STAPLE Short lengths of fibres, normally measured in inches or fraction of inches, like those naturally found in cotton and wool. Silk, on the other hand, is the only natural fibre that does not come in staple lengths but instead in filament lengths. STONEWASHING Process in which pumice stones are added to wash cycle to abrade denim and loosen color. S-TWIST YARN A left handed twisted yarn. See also Z-Twist. SULPHUR A type of dyestuff used frequently on blacks, and neutrals (khaki’s) while economical, has only moderate fastness to washing and light. SYNTHETIC DYES In 1856 William Henry Perkin, an Enlish chemist, discovered the synthetic dye mauveine. From this day forward, synthetic dyestuffs began to supplant natural dyes. The synthetic-dye manufacturing industry was founded by Perkin in 1857, when he set up facilities near London for the commercial production of mauveine and, later, of other synthetic dyes. Other dye-making factories followed both in the U.K. and continental Europe, and new dyes began to appear on the market. SYNTHETIC FIBRES Chemicals combined into large molecules called polymers, produce fibres like nylon, polyester, spandex, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, saran, spandex, and vinyon. TEXTILE FINISHING The non coloring process to make woven or knitted fabric more acceptable to the consumer. Finishing processes include bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, sizing applied after dyeing affecting touch treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Greige fabric is generally dirty, harsh, unattractive and requires considerable skill and imagination for conversion into a desirable product. Italian textile mills are famous as being the best finishers in the world.
TWILL The term twill designates both a textile weave characterised by diagonal structural designs and the cloth made from that weave. The weave may be varied to produce broken or intertwining effects. Twill fabrics are usually firm and are used especially in suits and in sport and work clothes. Twill-weave fabrics are also used for linings, pockets, and mattress ticking. Serge, gabardine, and cheviot are major types of twill. UNEVEN YARN Ring Spun yarn is by nature never perfectly regular; these irregularities can be used to give character to the yarn and subsequently to the fabric. It can be either light to give a natural appearance, or pronounced, to give an “antique” effect. Even Open End yarns can sometimes reproduce the antique effect, although they are very regular and cannot give a natural effect. VELVET A fabric with a short, closely woven pile, originally made of silk, it is today made of rayon, nylon, acrylic cut pile fabrics. WARP The lengthwise, vertical yarns carried over and under the weft. Warp yarns generally have more twist than weft yarns because they are subjected to more strain in the weaving process and therefore require more strength. WEFT (ALSO CALLED FILLING) The lengthwise, selvedge to selvedge horizontal, yarns carried over and under the warp. Filling yarns generally have less twist than warp yarns because they are subjected to less strain in the weaving process and therefore require less strength. In pile-fabric constructions, such as velvet or velveteen, extra sets of warps are used to form the pile. A single filling yarn is known as a pick. YARN A generic term for a continuous strand spun from a group of natural or synthetic staple fibres, or filaments, used in weaving, knitting to form textile fabrics. YARN DYED Or Color Wovens, are fabrics produced with yarns already dyed prior to the weaving process. Z-TWIST A right-handed twisted yarn, as opposed to S-Twist.
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An Annual Publication depicting the journey of Neuw Denim. 21st Century Denim captured through the essence of the brand, globally.
Published on Feb 15, 2018
An Annual Publication depicting the journey of Neuw Denim. 21st Century Denim captured through the essence of the brand, globally.